Map of the 88temples along the Shikoku PilgrimagePilgrims atZentsū-ji, Temple 75 and the birthplace ofKūkaiAnaruki-henro or walking pilgrim, marked out by his distinctivesedge hat, white shirt, andkongō-zue. Thehenro-michi route passes through the countryside and a number of cities.
TheShikoku Pilgrimage (四国遍路,Shikoku Henro) orShikoku Junrei (四国巡礼) is a multi-sitepilgrimage of 88temples associated with theBuddhist monkKūkai (Kōbō Daishi) on the island ofShikoku,Japan. A popular and distinctive feature of the island'scultural landscape, and with a long history, large numbers of pilgrims, known ashenro (遍路), still undertake the journey for a variety ofascetic,pious, andtourism-related purposes.[1] The pilgrimage is traditionally completed on foot, but modern pilgrims use cars, taxis, buses, bicycles, or motorcycles, and often augment their travels with public transportation. The standard walking course is approximately 1,200 kilometres (750 mi) long and can take anywhere from 30 to 60 days to complete.
In addition to the 88 "official" temples of the pilgrimage, there are 20bekkaku (別格) temples, which are officially associated with the Shikoku Pilgrimage (and hundreds morebangai (番外) temples, simply meaning "outside the numbers," which are not considered part of the official 88).[2][3] To complete the pilgrimage, it is not necessary to visit the temples in order; in some cases, pilgrims complete the journey in reverse, a practice known asgyaku-uchi (逆うち).[4]
Henro (遍路) is the Japanese word for pilgrim,[5] and the locals along the route address the pilgrims aso-henro-san (お遍路さん). They are often recognizable by their white clothing,sedge hats, andkongō-zue or walking sticks. Alms orosettai (お接待) are frequently given to pilgrims by Shikoku's residents.
Before reaching Temple 88, walking and bicycle pilgrims can receive a "Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage Henro Ambassador" certificate from the Maeyama Ohenro Koryu Salon. At Temple 88, one can purchase a pilgrimage completion certificate called akechi-gan-shō (結願証), meaning "fulfillment of one's wishes."[6] Many pilgrims also begin and complete the journey by visitingMount Kōya inWakayama Prefecture, which was settled by Kūkai and remains the headquarters ofShingon Buddhism. The 21 kilometres (13 mi) walking trail up to Kōya-san still exists, but most pilgrims use the train.[citation needed]
Kūkai, born atZentsū-ji (Temple 75) in 774, studied in China, and upon his return was influential in the promotion ofesoteric Buddhism. He established theShingon retreat onKōya-san, was an active writer, undertook a programme of public works, and during visits to the island of his birth is popularly said to have established or visited many of its temples and to have carved many of theirimages. He is posthumously known asKōbō Daishi.[8][9]
The legends and cult of Kōbō Daishi, such as the episode ofEmon Saburō, were maintained and developed by the monks of Kōya-san who travelled to expoundShingon and were active, along with otherhijiri, in Shikoku.[10] In theEdo period, the policy oftochi kinbaku (土地緊縛) restricted and regulated the movement of ordinary people. Pilgrims were required to obtain travel permits, follow the main paths, and pass through localities within a certain time limit, with the book of temple stamps ornōkyō-chō helping to provide proof of passage.[11]
Shikoku literally means "fourprovinces", those ofAwa,Tosa,Iyo, andSanuki, reorganized during theMeiji period into theprefectures ofTokushima,Kōchi,Ehime, andKagawa. The pilgrim's journey through these four provinces is likened to a symbolic path toenlightenment, with temples 1–23 representing the idea of awakening (発心,hosshin), 24–39 austerity and discipline (修行,shugyō), 40–65 attaining enlightenment (菩提,bodai), and 66–88 enteringnirvana (涅槃,nehan).[12]
The pilgrim's traditional costume comprises a white shirt (白衣,oizuru),conical Asian hat (すげ笠,suge-kasa), and staff (金剛杖,kongō-zue). This may be supplemented by aceremonial stole (輪袈裟,wagesa). Thehenro also carries a bag (頭陀袋,zuda-bukuro) containing name slips (納札,osame-fuda),prayer beads (数珠,juzu) (also known asnenju (念珠)), a booklet (納経帳,nōkyō-chō) to collect stamps/seals (朱印,shuin),incense sticks (線香,senkō), and coins used as offerings (お賽銭,o-saisen). The more religiously-minded henro may also carry a book of sutras (経本,kyōbon) andgo-eika (ご詠歌) set with a bell.[13]
Upon arrival at each temple the henrowashes before proceeding to theHondō. After offering coins, incense, and the osame-fuda, theHeart Sutra (般若心経,Hannya Shingyō) is chanted along with repetition of theMantra of the main image (本尊,honzon) and theMantra of Light (光明真言,Kōmyō Shingon). After kigan and ekō (prayers anddedication of merit), the henro proceeds to the shrine of Kobo Daishi (大師堂,Daishidō). Coins and a fuda are similarly offered, and again the Heart Sutra is chanted, along with repetition of the Gohōgō Mantra,namu-Daishi-henjō-kongō.[13]
Since 2010, Shikoku's prefectural governments, NPO members, and local leaders have worked toward achieving UNESCO World Heritage status for the Shikoku Pilgrimage. Currently, it is recognized as a "Provisional Candidate" by Japan's Agency for Cultural Affairs, or a cultural asset which has not yet been added to Japan's World Heritage Tentative List but which should 'proceed with preparations.'[14]
Attesting to the popularity of the Shikoku pilgrimage, from the eighteenth century a number of smaller imitative versions have been established.[7] These include a 150 kilometres (93 mi) circuit onShōdo Island northeast ofTakamatsu;[15] a 3 kilometres (1.9 mi) course on the grounds ofNinna-ji inKyoto;[16] a route on theChita Peninsula nearNagoya;[17] and circuits inEdo andChiba Prefecture.[7] Outside Japan, another version is on theHawaiʻi on the island ofKauai.[18]
^abReader, Ian (1999). "34. Legends, Miracles and Faith in Kōbō Daishi and the Shikoku Pilgrimage". In Tanabe, George J. (ed.).Religions of Japan in Practice.Princeton University Press. pp. 360–9.ISBN0-691-05789-3.
^"Map (In Japanese)".Shikoku Bekkaku 20 Pilgrimage Official Website. Retrieved17 September 2022.
Reader, Ian (2005).Making Pilgrimages: Meaning and Practice in Shikoku. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press.ISBN0-8248-2876-3.
Sibley, Robert C. (2013).The Way of the 88 Temples: Journeys on the Shikoku Pilgrimage. Charlelottesville: University of Virginia Press.ISBN978-0-8139-3472-3.
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