ThePunjabighagra (Punjabi:ਘੱਗਰਾ) is a four-piece outfit[1] known as tewar or 'ti-or' which was traditionally worn byPunjabi women throughout thePunjab region with the outfit comprising a head scarf (Phulkari),kurta or kurti,[2] ghagra (long skirt) and either a suthan (baggy trousers with a tight band around the ankles) or the Punjabi salwar (trousers).[3] In modern times, the ghagra is worn by women in parts ofHaryana, rural parts of southWest Punjab,[4] parts ofHimachal Pradesh[5] and during performances ofGiddha inEast Punjab.[6]
The ghagra has its origin in the candataka, which had become a popular garment in the Gupta period.[7] The candataka was a men's half trousers[8] which eventually developed into the ghagra. The intermediate formation has been described as a shirt like dress for men and women from the neck to the thighs.[9][10] Candataka continued as a popular female dress in the seventh century.[11]
The Punjabighagra is part of a four-piece ensemble:Phulkari,kurta/kurti,ghagra and suthan/salwar. The term tewar or ti-or suggests that the outfit was originally a three-piece ensemble[12] which would have comprised the head scarf, kurta/kurti/angi and the ghagra. However, when preparing clothes to give to the bride, the suthan/kurta or salwar kameez outfit is counted as bewar, comprising two articles, with the head scarf not being included. Randhawa (1960) suggests that the only difference between the ghagra ensemble and the Punjabi suit outfit is the addition of the ghagra in the ghagra outfit. Accordingly, even though the Punjabi ghagra is referred to as tewar/ti-or, it is a four-piece outfit and the Punjabi suit, a three-piece ensemble.
The upper garment is traditionally either a longkurta or a kurti which is a short coat.[13] The kurta is a remnant of the kurtaka which was short and had side slits. It was in use in the 11th century C.E.and provides a link to the kurta of thePunjab region.[14]
The kurti is a short cotton coat[15] or a mini anga (dress)[16] without side slits which is believed to have descended from the tunic of the Shunga period (2nd century B.C.).[17] The kurti during the early 1700s buttoned to the right[18] but later versions buttoned down the centre.
Saraiki kurti
Angi/Choli
The angi is the Punjabi name for thebodice which is a short sleeved vest which covers the breast but leaves the chest partly bare and the abdomen wholly exposed.[19] The angi can be worn with the kurti. The angi when worn on its own is called thecholi, which covers the chest[20] and has a slip running further down in front. It has short sleeves and is tied behind.[21] The angi differs from thecholi only in having no front slip.
One design of the choli is made of strips (or patches)[22] of many coloured silk or other material. The arms are generally bare and the stomach is left uncovered.[23] The choli is tied at the back with strings.[24] In the middle of the choli, a kubba is dangled which is a hollow knobby ornament with a pendant fixed onto the centre of the choli. The item used is the tukma which is a silver pendant fixed on to the ends of the choli.[25] The choli was a popular alternative to the kurta in the 20th century,[26][27][28][29] and was in use in thePunjab region since at least the 16th century.[30] It is still popular inMultan where the Multani choli is embroidered in different colours or hand printed, tied at the front or the back.[31] Modern versions of the choli are also worn.
The ghagra is a long full skirt which can vary from 9 to 25 yards[32] The picture on the right shows the styles worn by Saraiki speaking women inwest Punjab. The ghagra is traditionally worn by women of all communities.[33]
InLahore[34] andEast Punjab, the ghagra however was only worn when going outdoors[35] or in some areas, when going to another village in which case the kurta/kurti would be replaced by a choli.[36][37] Women were expected to continue to wear the ghagra over the suthan[38] or the salwar until old age or until at least the eldest child got married.[39] It was also customary to wear the ghagra on festive occasions and when attending funerals. It is still used by elderly ladies and is worn on special occasions.[40] Older Punjabi women living in the United Kingdom recall wearing the ghagra over the salwar.[41]
The materials used for making ghagras can either be chiffon or cotton. The edge is finished with either a row of pin tucks, embroidery, gota or by putting a border of daryai (stiffened cloth). The soft cotton ghagra is traditionally starched (maandi) along with mica or vark which shines in the sun. Vark is similar to thin layers of stiff paper which is crushed and added to maandi (starch).[32] Other materials used for ghagras are hari-shael, latha,[39] saatan (satin), embroideredphulkari, parachute cloth etc. Parachute cloth is a silky material and perhaps similar to the textile used to make parachutes. For formal occasions the ghagra is made of expensive material with some embellishments like gota or embroidery.
The Punjabi ghagra was envogue inWest Punjab[42] andEast Punjab on a wide scale during the 1960s.[43] However, during this time, the Punjabi ghagra began to decrease in popularity and thePunjabi Salwar Suit came to be worn on its own,[32] albeit in some villages inEast Punjab the Punjabi ghagra is still worn at funerals.[44] Further, the ghagra is still worn in parts ofHaryana,[45] parts ofHimachal Pradesh andWest Punjab.
A variation of the ghagra is the lehenga which is traditionally made of finer material than the ghagra as noted in 1878.[46] The lehenga was traditionally popular in urban areas and it is still customary for Punjabi brides to wear the lehngha.
A shorter version of the ghagra is the ghagri which does not drop to the ankles. This version is traditionally worn inHaryana andHimachal Pradesh but began to lose popularity during the 1960s.[43] In the plains of Punjab, the ghagri was an indoor item.[47]
Luanchari is a full-dress made of two parts stitched together: the upper part is the choli and the lower is the lehanga.[48] It is traditional garment worn by Gaddis ofHimachal Pradesh.[48]
^Biswas, Arabinda; Division, India Ministry of Information and Broadcasting Publications (27 February 1985)."Indian Costumes". Publ. Division, Ministry of Information and Broadcasting. Retrieved27 February 2019 – via Google Books.
^"Punjab District Gazetteers". Compiled and published under the authority of the Punjab government. 27 February 2019. Retrieved27 February 2019 – via Google Books.
^abPunjabi Sabhiachaar barey by Jit Singh Joshi Waris Shah Foundation
^Punjab (India) (27 February 1987)."Punjab District Gazetteers: Rupnagar". Controller of Print. and Stationery. Retrieved27 February 2019 – via Google Books.
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