 A group of muslim Kashmiri men wearing the Pheran | |
| Type | Traditional Dress |
|---|---|
| Material | Wool and Cotton |
| Place of origin | Kashmir |
Pheranⓘ(Kashmiri pronunciation:[pʰʲaran]) or Phiran is the traditional outfit for both males and females inKashmir.[1]
The pheran consists of two gowns, one over the other.[2] The traditional pheran extends to the feet, which was popular up to the late 19th century C.E.[3] However, a relatively modern variation of the pheran extends to below the knees,[4] which is worn with a suthan inside (loose form of shalwar) similar to the styles worn inAfghanistan.[5][6]
In summer, the pheran are made of cotton, but in winter, the pheran is made ofwool, covering and protecting the body from the cold especially during snow. These dresses are used by the residents of theKashmir valley andKashmiris residing inChenab Valley, both in the Indianunion territory ofJammu and Kashmir.
Since Pheran is unique to the Kashmiri culture and it is worn particularly to protect oneself from the coolest phase(Chilai Kalan-starts from 21 December) in winter, 21 December is now being celebrated asPheran Day in Kashmir valley.
Pheran is a corruption of the Persian word 'perahan' which means cloak.[7] The outfit has been in vogue inKashmir since before the 15th century.[8]
Before the advent of Islamic influence, the people of Kashmir used to wear a loose gown-type leather doublet instead of pheran, as recorded by Hiuen-Tsang.[9]
According to some sources, the pheran was introduced byMughal emperor Akbar when he conquered the valley in 1586.[10] However, according to historianPrithivi Nath Kaul Bamzai, with the arrival of Sufi saints and Muslim theologians from Persia and Central Asia, Kashmiris adopted their long robes and round turbans. The long robe, in particular, is considered the precursor to the Pheran, which is now the traditional attire of Kashmiris.[11]
Taranga
Hindu women use a headwear called "taranga" (Kashmiri pronunciation:[tarɨnɡɨ]), which is a headdress which becomes smaller down at back, towards the heels. It is popular in some areas of Kashmir.
Kasaba
Kashmiri Muslim women use a headwear known as the "kasaba" (Kashmiri pronunciation:[qasaːbɨ]). The kasaba is padded by means of a turban and is pinned together by brooches. A veil made of pashmina or Silk is pinned to the top of the kasaba that descends towards the back of the neck. There are two types of kasaba: "Thoud kasaba" and "Bonn kasaba".Thoud kasaba (high kasaba) sits on the head like a crown, worn only by married women belonging to elite families.House of khwajawal inNaid kadal made the most beautiful kasabas.[12]Bonn kasaba (low kasaba) sits on head like a bandana, worn by commoners and tribal women.[12] The most magnificent and expensive kasabas were made of kashmiri kundan work known as "Jarrah": precious gem stones, usually rubies, spinels and emerald are set in 24 carat gold to make various kundan ornaments (Tikka, Taweez, Hung taweez, Bal hor, kan vass) pinned to the red cap having intricate Kashmiri "Tilla work" (silver thread work). Kundan kasaba was worn only by royals.[13] Kundan kasaba were only made by house ofKundanghar inKhwaja bazar.[13]
The pheran is a loose upper garment loosely gathered at the sleeves, which tend to be wide,[14] made of either wool or jamewar, which is a mixture of wool and cotton,[5] with no side slits. A pheran made of wool is called a 'loch'.[15] Female pheran dresses are designed with colorful flowerlike designed elements and styles. Male pheran dresses are quite simple, without any colourful design.
The traditional pheran falls to the feet like a gown.[16] This style was universally worn by theKashmiri Hindu andKashmiri Muslim communities into the later 19th century C.E.[17] However, a modern version worn by Muslimsis knee-length, loose and stitched on the front side ane finishes, while Hindus often still wear their pherans long, extending down the legs. Ankle length Pherans[18] are tied at the waist.[19] Intricate embroideries or flower styles are a popular on Kashmiri ladies pherans. The embroideries or flower designs are made of thin metal threads; this kind of embroidery is known as 'Tille' in Kashmiri language.
Over time, the art of embellishing pherans has evolved, with a variety of embroidery styles enhancing their elegance. Some of the most prominent embroidery types found on modern pherans include:[20]
With time, designers and artisans have introduced new styles, blending tradition with modern aesthetics, making the pheran a versatile outfit worn for both casual and festive occasions.
The poots (Kashmiri pronunciation:[poːt͡sʰ]) is the same as the pheran but made of lighter material; it is worn beneath the pheran. It is generally used to protect the pheran from burns from thekangri. It also provides extra warmth during winters, double layer insulation from the cold winter days.
Traditionally, the pheran and poots were worn without a lower garment.[21][22] Indeed, in neighbouringHunza too, women did not wear pajamas until 1890 and in Nagar until 1925.[23] Since the latter part of the 19th century, loose suthans (shalwars) andchuridar pajamas of thePunjab region became popular inKashmir.[24][25] Accordingly, the suthan orchuridar pajama can form part of the pheran ensemble but is not a must. The Kashmiri suthan is baggy and loose and is similar to the Dogri suthan worn in theJammu region. Some versions are similar to the shalwars worn inAfghanistan. However, since the 1960s, the straight cut Punjabi salwar has become popular.[26][27][28]
Modern trends saw a decline in the use of pherans in favour of theshalwar kameez.[29] However, there has been a revival in recent years as pherans have become part of modern fashion,[30] and are worn by females of other areas ofKashmir as well.[31] Kashmiri men are also wearing the pheran as a fashionable outfit.[32] Combined with jeans, the pheran has made its way into the office world.[33] The modern pheran is not as wide and long[34] as the traditional ankle or knee-length version and sometimes has side slits. Fewer men are wearing the phiran with a shalwar.[35] Modern pherans, known as Raglan Pherans (LARK) are a hybrid of westernraglan coat and traditional wear.[36]
