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AnOxford shoe is a type ofshoe characterized byshoelaceeyelet tabs that are attached under thevamp,[1] a feature termed "closed lacing".[2] This contrasts withDerbys, orbluchers, which have shoelace eyelets attached to the top of the vamp.[3] Originally, Oxfords were plain, formal shoes, made of leather, but they evolved into a range of styles suitable for formal, uniform, or casual wear. On the basis of function and the dictates of fashion, Oxfords are now made from a variety of materials, including calf leather, faux and genuinepatent leather, suede, and canvas. They are normally black or brown, and may be plain or patterned (brogue).
The meaning of "Oxford" and "balmoral" may vary geographically. In the United States and Scotland, "Balmoral" is often synonymous with "Oxford".[4] In theUnited States, "Oxford" is sometimes used for any more formal lace-up shoe, including theBlucher andDerby. In Britain and other countries, the Balmoral is an Oxford with no seams, apart from the toe cap seam, descending to thewelt, a style common onboots. Oxford shoes are also known for their variation or style. The Cap-Toe Oxford is the most well-known, although 'Whole Cut', 'Plain Toe', and a variation of 'Brogue' Oxfords are commonly referred to styles.[5] Shoes with closed lacing (Oxfords/Balmorals) are considered more formal than those with open lacing (Bluchers/Derbys).[6] A particular type of oxford shoe is the wholecut oxford, its upper made from a single piece of leather with only a single seam at the back or in the rare exception no seams at all.[7]
Oxfords first appeared inScotland andIreland, where they are occasionally calledBalmorals afterBalmoral Castle. However, the shoes were later namedOxfords afterOxford University. This shoe style did not appear inNorth America until the 1800s.[8] In theUnited States, Oxfords are called"Bal-type" as opposed to "Blucher-type". InFrance, Oxfords are known asRichelieu,[9] orMolière in Belgium and Luxembourg.
Oxfords were derived from the Oxonian, a half-boot with side slits that gained popularity atOxford University in 1800.[10] Unlike early shoes, Oxfords were cut smaller than the foot. The side slit evolved into a side lace that eventually moved to the instep, as students rebelled against knee-high and ankle-high boots. The toe cap can either be lined with two narrow rows of stitching, perforated holes along the end cap stitching (quarter-brogue), perforated holes along the end cap stitching and on the toe cap (semi-brogue), or a semi-brogue with the classical wingtip design (full-brogue).[11]
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