Northern Norway | |
|---|---|
 Hellmobotn in Hamarøy where Norway is at its narrowest. | |
.svg) | |
| Country | Norway |
| Capitals | Tromsø,Bodø,Vadsø |
| Counties (fylker,fylke) | |
| Area | |
• Total | 112,951 km2 (43,611 sq mi) |
| Population (2020) | |
• Total | 482,000 |
| • Density | 4.3/km2 (11/sq mi) |
| Demonym | Nordlending |
| Nominal GDP (2013) | $27 billion |
| Nominal GDP per capita (2013) | $58,000 |
Northern Norway (Bokmål:Nord-Norge,Urban East Norwegian:[ˈnûːrˌnɔrɡə],Nynorsk:Nord-Noreg;Northern Sami:Davvi-Norga) is a geographicalregion ofNorway, consisting of the three northernmost countiesNordland,Troms andFinnmark, in total about 35% of the Norwegian mainland. Some of the largest towns in Northern Norway (from south to north) areMo i Rana,Bodø,Narvik,Harstad,Tromsø andAlta. Northern Norway is often described as the land of themidnight sun and the land of thenorthern lights. Farther north, halfway to the North Pole, is the Arctic archipelago ofSvalbard, traditionally not regarded as part of Northern Norway.
The region is multi-cultural, housing not justNorwegians but also theindigenousSami people, NorwegianFinns (known asKvens, distinct from the "Forest Finns" of Southern Norway) andRussian populations (mostly inKirkenes). TheNorwegian language dominates in most of the area; Sami speakers are mainly found inland and in some of the fjord areas of Nordland, Troms and particularly Finnmark – though ethnic Sámi who do not speak the language are found more or less everywhere in the region. Finnish is spoken in only a few communities in the east of Finnmark.
Northern Norway covers about a third of Norway. The southernmost part, roughly the part south of theArctic Circle, is calledHelgeland. Here there is a multitude of islands and skerries on the outside of the coastal range, some flat, some with impressive shapes, like MountTorghatten, which has a hole through it, and theSeven Sisters nearSandnessjøen. The inland is covered with densespruce forests and mountains near the Swedish border; some of the biggest rivers in the region are theVefsna and theRanelva. The highest mountain in Northern Norway is found here in theOkstindan range south ofMo i Rana withOksskolten reaching 1,915 metres (6,283 ft) above sea level, and with the glacierOkstindbreen.
TheSaltfjellet range, with itsSvartisen glacier and intersectingArctic Circle, divides Helgeland from the next region, calledSalten. Notable peaks in Salten are the Børvasstindan south ofBodø,Suliskongen nearFauske (1,907 metres or 6,257 feet, highest mountain north of the Arctic Circle), the Steigartindan and the phallic Hamarøytinden. Between Saltfjellet and eastern Finnmark, Norway spruce trees have originally been planted and are mostly privately owned. The older plantations are now producinglumber, 80 years after planted.[1]
Lofoten is a chain of peaks that jut out of the ocean. From the mainland side it looks very barren, but behind the violet-black peaks there are also flatlands with good grazing for sheep, partially on soil made fromseaweed. TheVesterålen islands consist of smaller and bigger islands with a huge variation in landscape.Ofoten, further inland, is a fjord landscape with high mountains, the highest isStorsteinfjellet in Narvik, 1,894 m above sea level, but the most well-known isStetind, the national mountain of Norway. There are also glaciers, likeFrostisen andBlåisen.
Troms county has surprising greenery for the latitude, and the inner waterways and fjords are lined with birch forests, and further inland there are extensive pine forests and highlands around the riversMålselva andReisaelva. Big islands likeSenja,Kvaløya andRingvassøya have green, forested interiors and a barren, mountainous coastline, with smaller islands offshore. TheLyngen Alps are the highest mountains of the area, rising to 1,833 metres (6,014 ft), an area of glaciers and waterfalls. The 269 metres (883 ft)Mollisfossen waterfall inNordreisa Municipality is the highest waterfall in the north, whileMålselvfossen is Norway's national waterfall.
Finnmark county has fjords and glaciers in the far southwest, and the northwestern coasts are characterized by big islands, likeSørøya andSeiland. The inland is covered byFinnmarksvidda, a relatively barren plateau about 300 to 400 metres (980 to 1,310 ft) high, with many lakes and rivers like Alta-Kautokeino andTana-Deatnu. Even at this latitude, pine forests grow naturally in lowland areas inland. East ofHonningsvåg, there are no islands protecting the barren coasts that rise directly up from the sea. The landscape towards the Russian border is comparatively flat.Knivskjellodden on the island ofMagerøya marks the northern end of Europe; tourism is directed to the much more accessible (and dramatic)North Cape, whereasKinnarodden on theNordkinn Peninsula is the northernmost point of Europe's mainland. Finnmark is situated north of northernmost Finland, and to the east Norway has a 196 kilometres (122 mi) border with Russia.
| Year | Pop. | ±% |
|---|---|---|
| 1951 | 403,884 | — |
| 1960 | 437,182 | +8.2% |
| 1970 | 456,121 | +4.3% |
| 1980 | 468,496 | +2.7% |
| 1990 | 460,274 | −1.8% |
| 2000 | 464,328 | +0.9% |
| 2010 | 464,665 | +0.1% |
| Source:Statistics Norway[1][2][3]. | ||
The oldest known historical culture in the region is called theKomsa culture, named aftera mountain in Alta. The first people possibly arrived 12,000–13,000 years ago, but it is uncertain whether they came from southern Norway or from theKola Peninsula. Today therock carvings atHjemmeluft in Alta or atLeknes in Nordland are among the remainders of the Stone Age cultures, showing reindeer swimming across the fjords. A significant find area is between the riverTana and the fjord ofVaranger, where the reindeer probably ran over the isthmus on the way between the winter and summer grazing. The question of the ethnic identity of theStone Age cultures is politically charged, as many Sami feel the uncertainty surrounding the earliest settlers in Northern Norway is being used to question their status as an indigenous people. Metals were introduced around 500 BC.
TheSami culture can be traced back at least 2,000 years. There is also some archeological evidence ofBronze Age agricultural settlements about 2,500 years old, as inSteigen Municipality andSømna Municipality. In 2009, archeologist discovered evidence of barley grown inKvæfjord Municipality (nearHarstad) in the Bronze Age 1000 BC.[4] A larger settlement by people of Germanic origin, with substantial archeological evidence, seem to have occurred 200–300 AD. These settled along the coasts roughly up to Tromsø. The two ethnic groups traded with each other, and there seems to have been quite a lot of intermarriage. The nature of the co-existence is hotly debated.[citation needed]
In theViking Age, several chieftains along the coast played a significant role in Norwegian history, usually resistingunification of Norway. The voyage and story ofOttar from Hålogaland was recorded by KingAlfred the Great inWessex.Hårek from Tjøtta andTore Hund, who killedSaint Olav at theBattle of Stiklestad in 1030 were important leaders according toHeimskringla. The chieftain and poetØyvind Skaldespiller was the first to receive international acclaim, as his poems were rewarded when the Icelandic parliament organized a money collection to buy him a thick ring of gold. This flourishing period of resistance was followed by consolidation and centralization of the Norwegian state, which was (and is) dominated by southerners (in the relative sense of south of Northern Norway), reducing the power and wealth of the Northern Norwegian chieftains.
In theMiddle Ages, churches and fortifications were built along the coast in an effort to stake a more firm claim for the kingdom of Norway along what was then the frontier of Norwegian settlement. By 1150,Lenvik Church was the northernmost church in Norway. In 1252 the first church, the Ecclesia Sanctae Mariae de Trums juxta paganos ("The Church of Saint Mary in Troms near the Heathens"), was built in Tromsø, along with a small rampart intended to serve as protection against Karelian raids. This was followed in 1307 by the consecration ofVardø Church in what is now eastern Finnmark. Finally,Vardøhus Fortress was constructed to mark and defend the border with the Karelian tributary lands of theNovgorod Republic. The traditional view has been that the fortress and church were constructed at roughly the same time, although recent research indicates that the fortress may have been constructed as late as the 1330s, after the border between Norway and Novgorod had become more fixed. At roughly the same time, the cod fishing gained momentum. Dried cod was exported throughBergen to the wholeHanseatic world, bringing prosperity to the north. This is reflected in the numerous pieces of imported church art from theLate Middle Ages. There were numerous wars with theNovgorod Republic in Russia at the time, that stopped by the late 15th century.
Reduced fish prices in the 17th century and the exploitative trade practices of merchants from Bergen, who had been granted a royal monopoly on fish trading, led to a significant decline in the population and grinding poverty for those who remained. Large coastal areas were depopulated, and Sami culture made a comeback, as it was less dependent on fish exports. After 1700, RussianPomors started to come every summer on trading expeditions, bringing rye in exchange for fish. Although this was in violation of Bergen's trade monopoly and the Danish–Norwegian monarchy made some attempts to curtail the Pomor trade, the trade was vital to the survival of many Northern Norwegian fishing communities. In the 1740s the first settlers started arriving in Northern Norway from Finland. The traditional view is that these were refugees escaping famine and warfare at home, although modern scholars have pointed out that many were simply looking for their own piece of land, which was getting scarce in Finland as a result of rapid population growth. In 1789, the trade monopoly of the city ofBergen was lifted,Hammerfest andVardø were issued their city charters, and Tromsø followed suit in 1794. Interrupted by the British blockade of the Napoleonic wars, this introduced a period of unprecedented growth in the north as the trade monopoly had previously made cities nonviable in Northern Norway. Bodø was founded in 1816, andVadsø in 1833. TheHurtigruten shipping line, introduced in 1893, gave quicker communications with the south. In 1906, the iron mines inKirkenes opened.
At the same time, the ethnic diversity of the area came under threat. Particularly afterNorwegian independence (from theUnited Kingdoms of Sweden and Norway) in 1905, the Norwegian authorities were insistent that all should speak Norwegian only and schools became active tools of assimilation. The Sami language was banned in schools, churches and in public administration. Concerns about possibleFinnish irredentism also led to increasing pressure on Kvens to assimilate. People who wanted to buy state-owned land in Finnmark had to prove they could speak Norwegian before they were allowed to settle.
This region of Norway was the area most affected byWorld War II. In 1940, the Norwegians and Allied forces fought theGerman Army to a standstill over the strategic port for iron exports of Narvik, until allied forces and equipment were withdrawn, leaving the remaining Norwegians with no option but surrender.King Haakon VII and the government fled towards the north, and stayed in the Tromsø area for three weeks. On 27 May, Bodø was bombed by theLuftwaffe, and on 7 June, the Allies retreated from the North, and the King and government fled to Britain from Tromsø. During the war, the area was used by theKriegsmarine to stage U-boat attacks onAllied Arctic supply convoys resupplying theEastern Front.[5]
In 1944, the GermanWehrmacht started to retreat from theMurmansk front. They burned everything after them in the area between theRussian border and theLyngen fjord, as part of theirtactics. The population was forcibly evacuated, although a third of them chose to hide in the wilderness instead. All who were found were shot.
After World War II, Norway made a huge effort to rebuild the destroyed towns and villages. Modernizing fishing and agriculture was important, as Northern Norway was considerably poorer and less developed than the south. In 1946, the huge steel works ofMo i Rana were founded, heralding industrialization of the north.
Transportation was also improved, as airports were built throughout the area, notably in Bodø in 1952 and Tromsø in 1964. The rail network was extended to reach Bodø in 1961. In 1972, theUniversity of Tromsø opened, accompanied by a number of university colleges, notably in Bodø, Alta, Harstad and Narvik. In 1972 and 1994, the strong anti-EU movements of the north, largely based on concerns over EU mismanagement of its own fish stocks, were instrumental when Norway voted against EU membership in referendums.
Sami language instruction was introduced in schools in the 1970s. In 1979, the building of a hydro-electric dam in Alta caused huge demonstrations, giving the Sami question national attention for virtually the first time. The result was a significant effort by the authorities to promoteSami language and culture. In 1989, the Norwegian Sami parliament,Samediggi, opened, and the Law of Finnmark of 2005 was an attempt to deal with the question of land rights. A similar law is on the way for Nordland and Troms.
Working against all this, emigration to the south has been strong after World War II. While there is a slight overall population growth in Northern Norway (as a result of surplus childbirths and immigration from abroad), this is significantly lower than in southern counties, although the regional centres of Bodø, Tromsø and Alta continue to grow at a relatively brisk pace. Lately, the off-shore gas field ofSnøhvit, off Hammerfest, has brought hopes of new development in the north.
TheNorthern Norwegian dialects share a common, musical intonation, different from the southern dialects of Norway. Apart from this, there is great variation in sound system, grammar, and vocabulary. In general, one can say that the southernmost of the northern dialects, particularly in Helgeland and Salten, are the most distinct. Notably they cut grammar endings (like French relative to Italian)[clarification needed]. In areas of Finnmark, the dialects are somewhat more in line with standard written Norwegian (Bokmål,Nynorsk), particularly in those areas where Norwegian was primarily introduced by the school system as part of the assimilation process during the 20th century. In some inland valleys in the county of Troms, settlers from the inland of Southern Norway immigrated 200 years ago. Even today, these dialects have southern characteristics in intonation and vocabulary.
Earlier, northern dialects had a low status in Norway, but recently they have been used extensively in song lyrics, poetry, in TV and radio. Today, anyone can use their dialects. This is not to suggest that no prejudices remain, however.
Sami is spoken in three main dialects (or languages, depending on the definition):Southern Sami south of the Arctic Circle,Lule Sami mainly between Bodø and Narvik, andNorthern Sami in the rest. Originally,Pite Sami andUme Sami were spoken around Bodø, but these dialects are now extinct on the Norwegian side of the border.Eastern Sami was originally spoken inNeiden, close to Kirkenes, but it is more or less extinct. Overall, Northern Sami is by far the healthiest of the Sami languages today, primarily because it still has a relatively large number of first language speakers and maintains its dominance in core areas in Finnmark. Northern Sami is an official language (in addition to Norwegian) in the municipalities ofGáivuotna Municipality (Kåfjord),Kautokeino Municipality,Karasjok Municipality,Porsanger Municipality,Tana Municipality, andNesseby Municipality.
TheFinnish spoken in western regions, fromStorfjord Municipality toPorsanger Municipality, is quite distinct, although comprehensible for people from Finland. Further east, around Vadsø and Kirkenes, the spoken Finnish resembles standard Finnish. People of Finnish descent in these eastern areas are also typically more likely to consider themselves as "Finnish Norwegians" rather thanKvens, arguing that the term Kven represents an attempt to cut them off from their Finnish roots. Finnish is official in addition to Sami and Norwegian in Porsanger municipality. Very few first language Finnish speakers remain in Northern Norway, and unlike Northern Sami, the Finnish language lacks a core region where it is still dominant in daily life.
Coastal and fjord areas of Northern Norway have much in common withWestern Norway, sometimes imagined in cultural terms as a shared "coastal identity". The topography and fjord landscape, the rich fisheries, the culture and even some aspects of the dialects (Vestnorsk) have clear similarities.
During the 18th and 19th centuries a Russian-Norwegianpidgin known asRussenorsk developed for the communication ofRussian traders and Norwegian fishermen in thePomor trade.
Northern Norway is surrounded by some of the richest seas in the world, and seafood is the main source for traditional cuisine. However, agricultural produce has existed for at least 3,000 years in parts of the area (Helgeland,Salten, Lofoten, Harstad-Kvæfjord).[6] In addition to fishing, each family traditionally had a small farm with a few cows (seePietro Querinis shipwrecked at Røst in 1432[7]), sheep or goats (goats being preferred in many places due to their superior adaptation to the rough and mountainous terrain found in much of Northern Norway) and had small grain fields (mostlybarley).[8] After the introduction (and somewhat later acceptance) of potatoes from the Americas, these became a main staple in much of Northern Norway, as well as many other parts of Norway. Agriculture gradually becomes less important as a food source as one moves further north, and in the northern half (north of Balsfjord/Tromsø area) was usually of minor importance and certainly less important than fishing or Sami reindeernomadic pastoralism. Hunting has been important ever since the Stone Age, and the comparatively large areas of sparsely settled valleys, fells and mountains still hold wildlife.
In the winter, the codfish comes to the coastal waters to spawn, especially to the cod fisheries of Lofoten.Mølja, boiled codfish with liver androe, is a delicacy that today is served in the best restaurants. In the summer, thecoalfish, orsaithe, bites, and fresh saithe is often served on the beach, boiled in seawater over an open fire, or fried (typically the smaller coalfish).Halibut is traditional Christmas food. Most fish is served plainly poached, only accompanied by boiled potatoes, carrots and possibly fried bacon. A more particular kind of fish is "gammelsei",saithe that has been conserved for a year or more. Other traditions arelutefisk andboknafisk, the latter made fromstockfish, and in Nordland often fromherring.[9]Seawolf androse fish are regarded as good food, the latter often eaten salted and poached, with the brain (krus) highly regarded, sometimes fried with onions. In addition to cod, herring and potatoes were traditional staple foods (except in the most northern area).Salmon has long traditions as food along the rivers, and alsotrout which are common also in the numerous lakes. In the latest decades consumption has increased in correspondence with increased salmonfish farming;smoked salmon is very popular, often onopen sandwiches, alone or together with boiled orscrambled eggs orsalad.[10]
Traditionally, northerners regardedshellfish andprawns as bait, but lately they have developed a taste for it, and the freshest and most succulent prawns and shellfish are easily obtainable all along the coast.Shark meat has traditionally not been used as food, even if some can grow nearly 10 metres (33 ft) long.[11] In later years, the largeRed king crab has invaded Norwegian waters from the east and, having reached west to Hammerfest, are now served in the finest restaurants. The large sea bird colonies along the coast provided eggs for the local population, yet most of these are now protected by law. However, in Tromsø,sea gull eggs and beer from the local brewery is still a highly regarded dish to enjoy in the sun of late spring.[12]
Tenderwhale meat is usually served as steaks, whereas seals are an acquired taste, due to the smell. However, when processed into "Barents ham", it gets more palatable. Fresh seal meat is served at the end of the hunting season in spring, and Tromsø is the place to look for it.Reindeer are often served asfinnebiff, thin slices in a cream sauce. Reindeer filets have become more popular in high-end restaurants in recent years, but the price can be prohibitive as the reindeer industry is shielded from market forces by the Norwegian government (in essence, it is treated as a vital component of Sami culture, rather than a competitive industry, which means there is little pressure to actually sell the meat products).Lamb meat from sheep following the retreatingsnow line up the hills and mountains to get the most nutritious fresh vegetation throughout summer is highly regarded by the locals, and research seem to indicate that a varied diet does influence the taste of the meat.[13] Game meat includesmountain hare,rock ptarmigan,willow grouse andmoose.
Foods with dairy as an important ingredient includewaffles,pancakes andrømmegrøt (sour-cream porridge), the latter always served with sugar andcinnamon. None of the aforementioned are distinctly Northern Norwegian foods, however, but are popular throughout Norway. There are a number of local traditions in this long region, includinggoat cheese fromBalsfjord Municipality,[14]Blanklefse and other variations oflefse from Helgeland,[15] and a number of variations of reindeer, an integral part of traditionalSami culture.
Wild berries have long traditions in the local cuisine, and the most sought after is thecloudberry, used in marmalade, desserts and cakes. Other popular wild berries arebilberries,lingonberry,raspberry (southern half of region, also cultivated in some private gardens), and there are also a number of less well known berries used for food.[16]Mushrooms are common in the forests from late July to September and also has seen some use in traditional food.
The use of kitchen gardens is limited by climatic factors, but still has a long history in the southern half of the region.Rhubarb andredcurrant has been used for more than 100 years; redcurrant also grows naturally in much of the region,[17]blackcurrant is also common in gardens. In addition to potatoes and carrots,rutabaga and sometimescabbage have traditionally been grown (very little in Finnmark). Many wild plants were used for medical purposes or as spices, such asGarden Angelica, but this has become rare in modern times. More lately is the importedstrawberry which has become popular and are grown locally (mostly southern half of region).[18] The unique growing conditions, with ripening in 24-hr daylight and modest warmth is sometimes claimed to enhance flavor.[19]Bioforsk, with research in terrestrial effects of climate and subarctic agriculture, has branches in four places in Northern Norway – Tromsø, Bodø,Tjøtta and Svanhovd inSør-Varanger Municipality.[20][21]
There are large climatic differences from southwest to northeast in this region.Finnmarksvidda in the interior of Finnmark and some valleys in the interior of Troms, experience a more continental climate with much lessprecipitation and much colder winters compared to the long coastal region.[22][23][24][25]
There are extreme variations in daylight between winter and summer. InNordkapp Municipality the midnight sun can be seen from 11 May to 31 July, and the sun does not rise above thehorizon from 19 November to 22 January. For Tromsø, the dates are 17 May to 25 July, and 26 November to 15 January, respectively; and forBodø from 30 May to 12 July (no polar night in Bodø). The mid-winter darkness is not totally dark on the mainland; there is twilight for about three hours around noon in Tromsø. Helgeland does not have true midnight sun, but the upper part of the sun disc never descends below the horizon as far south as Mosjøen in June. February is a transitional period when the sun rapidly returns, and March and April often feel like an explosion of light with long daylight hours and snow cover in most areas except the coastal strip of Nordland. TheAurora Borealis can be seen in the whole area from autumn to mid-April, after which it gets too bright to observe the Aurora. It is a natural phenomenon arising due to the collision between electrically charged particles from the sun that enter the atmosphere of the earth, and paint the sky all colors from the color palette.
| Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bodø sunrise & sunset 15th of each month | 10:18 – 14:05 | 08:16 – 16:18 | 06:24 – 18:02 | 05:16 – 20:51 | 03:06 – 22:56 | Midnight sun | 01:40 – 00:30 | 04:27 – 21:43 | 06:20 – 19:34 | 08:02 – 17:33 | 09:04 – 14:29 | 11:18 – 12:37 | |
| Tromsø sunrise & sunset 15th of each month | 11:31 – 12:17 | 08:16 – 15:43 | 06:07 – 17:41 | 04:43 – 20:48 | 01:43 – 23:48 | Midnight sun | Midnight sun | 03:44 – 21:50 | 05:56 – 19:20 | 07:54 – 17:04 | 09:25 – 13:32 | Polar night | |
| Hammerfest sunrise & sunset 15th of each month | Polar night | 08:16 – 15:15 | 05:50 – 17:22 | 04:17 – 20:37 | Midnight sun | Midnight sun | Midnight sun | 03:11 – 21:42 | 05:35 – 19:04 | 07:41 – 16:39 | 09:28 – 12:50 | Polar night | |
| Source: Almanakk for Norge; University of Oslo, 2010. Note: In December and the first week of January, the very low sun in Bodø is blocked by mountains. In mid-July, the sun sets after midnight in Bodø due todaylight saving. In Tromsø, the sun is below the horizon until 15.January, but is blocked by mountains until 21. January. | |||||||||||||
The coast of Helgeland in southern Nordland and some islands further north to Skrova in Lofoten have a temperateoceanic climate (Cfb) with monthly mean temperatures above 0 °C (32 °F) in winter, and four months with mean at or above 10 °C (50 °F). This includes the townsBrønnøysund andSandnessjøen. In the same coastal area, but slightly into the fjords north to includeBodø, is a narrow area where winters are a little colder but summers still lasts four month, making this ahumid continental climate (Dfb).
A long area along the coast fromMyken island in the south north along the outer coast north toHasvik Municipality is thesubpolar oceanic climate (Cfc) with still not very cold winters (coldest month above −3 °C (27 °F)). This includes much of Lofoten and Vesterålen, the western coast of Troms north to Fruholmen inMåsøy Municipality in Finnmark. Towns in this area includesLeknes,Sortland, Harstad, the mildest parts of Tromsø close to the sea andHasvik.
The largest part of North Norway are within theboreal climate (also known as subarctic), but with large variation of temperatures and precipitation from south to northeast. Most towns along the fjords falling into this climate zone in North Norway have winters milder and wetter than the typical boreal climate, and a complete lack of permafrost; this includes Mosjøen, Mo i Rana, Narvik, Tromsø and Hammerfest. Colder winters are found in Bardufoss, Alta, Kirkenes and Vadsø. The really cold areas are inland in Finnmark whereKarasjok andKautokeino have mean annual below 0 °C (32 °F) and patchy permafrost. However, the inland towns seldom see strong winds, and Karasjok only experiences on average 1 day/year with strong breeze (22 knots) or more.
A substantial area of the region, especially towards the border with Sweden and north to the Lyngen alps east of Tromsø, are mountains and highlands with alpine tundra climate above the treeline.
The mean annual temperature difference between Brønnøysund (6.6 °C (43.9 °F)) and Kautokeino (−1.4 °C (29.5 °F)) is 8 °C (13 °F), about the same as the difference between Brønnøysund and Madrid, Spain (MADRID/RETIRO, SPAIN Weather History and Climate Data).
The warm climate in coastal areas, relative to other locations at the same latitude, is by many attributed to the relatively warmNorth Atlantic Current, an extension of theGulf Stream.
Wind strength is strongest in winter and late autumn, when the Lows are strongest. Summers and early autumn are much less windy and will rarely see the wind strength that can be experienced in winter. Every winter sees windstorms disrupting communications (ferries, air traffic), especially along the outer seaboard. However, many winter days are completely calm. The most windy location in continental Norway (apart from mountain summits) isFruholmen Lighthouse (Fruholmen fyr) inMåsøy Municipality not far from theNorth Cape. The most windy city in Northern Norway is Bodø with on average 153 days/year with strong breeze or more and 24 days with gale-force winds, whileVardø, also lacking shelter, sees 136 days of strong breeze or more and 18 days with gale. Inland valleys and sheltered fjord areas—particularly if sheltered by mountains—are much less windy. Tromsø, partly sheltered by large islands, experiences on average 27 days/year with strong breeze, and 1 day with gale, andBardufoss sees on average only 11 days with strong breeze or more and scarcely ever experiences gale. In winter, there might sometimes blow cold winds from the freezing highlands out through the large fjords, −10 °C (14 °F) and strong breeze will feel very cold on the skin. Mild westerlies are still much more common in most winters. Weather patterns are inherently unpredictable in this northern region—both low pressure and high pressure weather can occur at any time of year, although the strongest winds occur in winter.
Along the coast of Nordland north to southern Vesterålen, average winter temperatures hover just above freezing, getting gradually colder winters into the fjords, and the coldest are inland. Inland Finnmark, as in Karasjok, average temperatures remain below freezing for 7 months (October–April). In Tromsø, average temperatures stays below freezing for 4–5 months.
Even if winter temperatures depends largely on the distance to the sea, the length of the season varies mostly with latitude (and altitude). While the southern coast of Nordland have four months of summer, the northeasternmost areas just averages two months, such as Kirkenes and Vadsø. The warmest summer daily highs are in the inland valleys and sheltered fjords, in towns like Mosjøen, Rognan, Narvik, Bardufoss, Alta and Karasjok. A small strip of land along the extreme northeastern coast fromNordkapp Municipality toVardø Municipality was earlier partly tundra (Arctic climate) due to lack of summer warmth, however with the updated climate normals 1991–2020, summers have warmed and the tundra climate has changed to a boreal climate along this northernmost coast, but still with very modest summer warmth.
Precipitation occur in all seasons, usually as snow in winter, although often as rain on the Nordland coast. Snow accumulation in the mountains can exceed 3 metres (9.8 ft), and this abundance of snow is the reason for the numerous glaciers – more than 500, mostly in Nordland and Troms.
Autumn, and some places along the coast winter, tend to be the wettest season, often receiving more than twice as much precipitation as does spring and early summer. Only the interior areas of Finnmark tend to be wettest in summer. The areas with the least precipitation are some inland valleys, like Dividalen inMålselv Municipality with only 282 millimetres (11.1 in) precip/year, and upperSaltdal andSkibotn with about the same. Inland Finnmark is the only large area with less than 450 millimetres (18 in) precipitation/year. The wettest areas are generally theHelgeland region;Lurøy Municipality on the west coast of Saltfjell averages 2,900 millimetres (110 in)/year.
The coldest temperature recorded is −51.4 °C (−60.5 °F) in Karasjok on 1.January 1886, and the warmest recorded is 35 °C (95 °F) atMosjøen Airport on 27 July 2019.[27]Many locations in North Norway have recorded what Norwegians know as "tropical nights" when the overnight low does not fall below 20 °C (68 °F). The warmest night ever recorded in Norway was 29 July 2019 at Sømna-Kvaløyfjellet (302 m) inSømna Municipality near Brønnøysund with overnight low 26.1 °C (79.0 °F).[28] The third warmest night recorded in Norway was atMakkaur inBåtsfjord Municipality with overnight low 25.2 °C (77.4 °F) on 19 July 2018.
Brønnøysund at 65 degrees north latitude has a temperate oceanic climate and few extremes even with 150 years of recording.
| Climate data for Brønnøysund Airport 1991-2020 (9 m, precipitation 1961-90, extremes 1873-2020 includes earlier stations) | |||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
| Record high °C (°F) | 10.2 (50.4) | 10.9 (51.6) | 14.7 (58.5) | 21.1 (70.0) | 27.2 (81.0) | 30.3 (86.5) | 32.1 (89.8) | 30.1 (86.2) | 24.6 (76.3) | 20.3 (68.5) | 17.6 (63.7) | 12.2 (54.0) | 32.1 (89.8) |
| Mean daily maximum °C (°F) | 2 (36) | 2 (36) | 4 (39) | 8 (46) | 12 (54) | 15 (59) | 18 (64) | 17 (63) | 14 (57) | 9 (48) | 6 (43) | 4 (39) | 9 (49) |
| Daily mean °C (°F) | 1.1 (34.0) | 0.4 (32.7) | 1.4 (34.5) | 4.7 (40.5) | 8.1 (46.6) | 11.2 (52.2) | 14.3 (57.7) | 14 (57) | 11.1 (52.0) | 6.8 (44.2) | 4 (39) | 1.9 (35.4) | 6.6 (43.8) |
| Mean daily minimum °C (°F) | 0 (32) | −1 (30) | −1 (30) | 2 (36) | 5 (41) | 9 (48) | 12 (54) | 12 (54) | 9 (48) | 5 (41) | 2 (36) | 1 (34) | 5 (40) |
| Record low °C (°F) | −17.1 (1.2) | −18.4 (−1.1) | −15.5 (4.1) | −10.1 (13.8) | −5 (23) | 0 (32) | 1 (34) | 1.1 (34.0) | −4.4 (24.1) | −5.2 (22.6) | −11.3 (11.7) | −18.2 (−0.8) | −18.4 (−1.1) |
| Averageprecipitation mm (inches) | 138 (5.4) | 102 (4.0) | 114 (4.5) | 97 (3.8) | 66 (2.6) | 83 (3.3) | 123 (4.8) | 113 (4.4) | 180 (7.1) | 192 (7.6) | 145 (5.7) | 157 (6.2) | 1,510 (59.4) |
| Source 1: yr.no – Meteorologisk Institutt[29] | |||||||||||||
| Source 2: Weatheronline.co.uk[30] | |||||||||||||
Lakselv inPorsanger Municipality at 70 degrees north latitude has a continental boreal climate with cold winters and sparse precipitation.
| Climate data for Lakselv Airport, Banak in Porsanger 1991-2020 (5 m, extremes 1979-2022) | |||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
| Record high °C (°F) | 9.4 (48.9) | 9.4 (48.9) | 13 (55) | 15.9 (60.6) | 25.7 (78.3) | 32.5 (90.5) | 34.3 (93.7) | 32.8 (91.0) | 25 (77) | 15.1 (59.2) | 11.9 (53.4) | 10.1 (50.2) | 34.3 (93.7) |
| Mean daily maximum °C (°F) | −4.2 (24.4) | −4.5 (23.9) | −0.9 (30.4) | 3.6 (38.5) | 9 (48) | 13.7 (56.7) | 17.4 (63.3) | 15.8 (60.4) | 11.4 (52.5) | 4.5 (40.1) | −0.4 (31.3) | −2.2 (28.0) | 5.3 (41.5) |
| Daily mean °C (°F) | −7.9 (17.8) | −7.9 (17.8) | −4.5 (23.9) | 0.1 (32.2) | 5.3 (41.5) | 9.6 (49.3) | 12.9 (55.2) | 11.6 (52.9) | 7.8 (46.0) | 1.9 (35.4) | −3.4 (25.9) | −5.7 (21.7) | 1.7 (35.0) |
| Mean daily minimum °C (°F) | −11.8 (10.8) | −11.8 (10.8) | −8.5 (16.7) | −3.7 (25.3) | 1.6 (34.9) | 6.1 (43.0) | 9.2 (48.6) | 7.8 (46.0) | 4.5 (40.1) | −0.8 (30.6) | −6.5 (20.3) | −9.2 (15.4) | −1.9 (28.5) |
| Record low °C (°F) | −33.6 (−28.5) | −33 (−27) | −29.9 (−21.8) | −24.7 (−12.5) | −11.4 (11.5) | −1.6 (29.1) | −0.2 (31.6) | −3.1 (26.4) | −9.2 (15.4) | −21.2 (−6.2) | −26.4 (−15.5) | −30 (−22) | −33.6 (−28.5) |
| Averageprecipitation mm (inches) | 24.7 (0.97) | 18.5 (0.73) | 19.9 (0.78) | 17.1 (0.67) | 25.5 (1.00) | 42.5 (1.67) | 57.2 (2.25) | 54.3 (2.14) | 37.7 (1.48) | 33.4 (1.31) | 23.6 (0.93) | 27.5 (1.08) | 381.9 (15.01) |
| Average precipitation days(≥ 1.0 mm) | 12 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 17 | 16 | 15 | 15 | 12 | 14 | 166 |
| Source 1: yr.no/Norwegian Meteorological Institute[31] | |||||||||||||
| Source 2: NOAA WMO averages 91-2020 Norway[32] | |||||||||||||
Ranked by population in the town itself (not the municipality) as of 1. January 2008:[33]
Towns with fewer than 30,000 inhabitants, ranked by population:
Towns with fewer than 5,000 inhabitants, ranked by population:
There are settlements larger than Vardø which are not included in the list as they have not been granted or designated as a town (such asRognan,Løding,Andenes,Setermoen andSkjervøy).
Northern Norway, located at the very northern periphery of Europe, has seen great improvements in transportation infrastructure in recent decades. The road network connects virtually all villages and towns, the most important roads are theE6,E10,E8. Seven road sections in the region areNational Tourist Routes in Norway due to their scenic surroundings, from Helgeland in the south to theVaranger Peninsula in the northeast, including two sections of theNorwegian County Road 17. Airports with long runways and direct flights toOslo airport are located inTromsø,Bodø,Evenes (near Harstad),Alta,Kirkenes andBardufoss, and there are also directs flights connectingBrønnøysund andSandnessjøen with Oslo. There are smaller airports with regional flights near most towns. For Bodø, Fauske, Mo i Rana and Mosjøen theNordland Line provides railway connection south to Trondheim (and on to Oslo), while Narvik has railway connection east to Sweden (and on to Stockholm). TheHurtigruten calls at many ports in the region. Goods that are needed in northern Norway are generally freighted by train to Bodø or Narvik, and there reloaded to trucks. The freight trains from Oslo to Narvik has the majority of the amount. Export of fish and other products use the same trains in the reverse direction.
TheNorthern Norwegian Cup was a football tournament played from 1929 to 1969. TheEliteserien, Norway's primary men's football league, features two Northern teams in the current2023 season,FK Bodø/Glimt andTromsø IL. In women's football,IK Grand Bodø andMedkila IL (from Harstad) will play in the1. divisjon, the second tier of Norwegian football.
In ice hockey, theNarvik IK plays in the second-tierNorwegian First Division. In basketball, theBLNO has featured theTromsø Storm andHarstad Vikings.
TheArctic Race of Norway is a cycling road race of theUCI Europe Tour held since 2013.
TheTromsø Midnight Sun Marathon is a marathon race held under midnight sun.
Northern Norway travel guide from Wikivoyage
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