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"Narrow cloth" (streit,strait,[1]narrow ware articles,narrow ware woven[2]) is cloth of a comparatively narrow width, generally less than a human armspan; precise definitions vary.
Historically,human factors and ergonomics limited the width that could practically be woven by a single weaver on ahandloom. The weaver had to be able to reach both edges of the cloth, so they could throw theshuttle through theshed. A weaver thus could not weave abolt wider than theirarmspan.[3] So cloth was typically made in narrow widths onnarrow-width handlooms.[4][5]
Wider widths once had to be woven with a person on each side of the loom, usually the master weaver and an apprentice, throwing the shuttle back and forth between them.[6]: 29 [3] In 1733, theflying shuttle was invented. Flying shuttles made it possible for a single hand weaver to weave widths greater than their armspan, halving the labour required to make broadcloth.[7] Fabric widths became limited by the impracticality of transporting very wide bolts and looms.
Various maximum measures of breadth were used to legally define narrow cloth, and "broadcloth" was often regulated to be twice the width of narrow cloth (seehistoric definitions, below). The word "broadcloth" was originally used just as anantonym to "narrow cloth", but later came to mean a particular type of cloth (seebroadcloth).[1] The1909 Webster's dictionary (as reprinted in 1913) defines broadcloth as "A fine smooth-faced woolen cloth for men's garments, usually of double width".[8] thus giving both the old breadth-based distinction and the newer definition based on the type of cloth.Broadwoven andnarrow woven are unambiguous terms, used by the US government.[9]
The narrow cloth had several variations and was famous as like broadcloths;[clarification needed] due to the narrower width, they were less prone to shrinkage[clarification needed] and thus required lessmilling.[10]: 8
In England, efforts were made to standardize the width of cloth, to promotemercery. The first on record is theAssize of Cloth (also called the Assize of Measures), which was first introduced in the reign ofRichard I (1189–1199). It defined two Englishells (then 74 inches, 190 cm[11][better source needed]) as the only legal breadth for woolen cloth. Article 35 ofMagna Carta reaffirmed this standard;[1] it said "There shall be standard measures of wine, ale, andcorn (theLondon quarter), throughout the kingdom. There shall also be a standard width of dyed [generally wollen] cloth,russet, andhaberject, namely two ells within theselvedges. Weights are to be standardised similarly."[12] In the reign ofEdward I (1272 - 1307), an official called the king'salnager was appointed to enforce the law, and all towns were required to have an accurateellwand (measuring stick one ell in length).[13][1] These rules were repealed in 1353, because imports and varying types of wool made them impractical.[1] In 1665, in the reign ofCharles II, the office of alnager was revived. Two standard widths were defined: widths of 2 yards (180 cm) were called broadcloth, and widths of 1 yard (91 cm), narrow cloth. The office of the alnager was abolished again in 1699.[1] SeeWeights and Measures Acts (UK)#England for details.
In the late-sixteen- and seventeen-hundreds, English merchants exported broadcloth to both theLevant and theIndies. This cloth was defined as having a breadth greater than a 1.25 yards (114 cm). Anything narrower was narrow cloth.[14]
James Bischoff noted in his 1842 publication,A Comprehensive History of the Woollen, and WorstedManufactures, that British woolens were imported intoIreland with two different descriptions, broadcloth and narrow cloth. These were priced (per yard length) at six shillings fourpence and threeshillings eightpence, respectively. He did not mention whether the two were distinguished by width,[15]: 326 but the doubling of price suggests that broadcloth was similar to narrow cloth except for being twice the width.
In the United States in the early 19-hundreds, fabrics with a width of less than 29 inches (74 cm) were classed as narrow cloth; wider fabrics were classed as broadcloth.[16]: 27 [5] The American1909 Webster's dictionary (as reprinted in 1913) defines broadcloth as 1.5 yards (140 cm), and narrow cloth as 0.75 yards (69 cm), but also givesthe newer definition based on the type of cloth.
In the 1990s, the US government defined "broadwoven fabrics" and "narrow woven fabrics", with a breadth cutoff of 30 centimeters (about 12 inches) (per theHarmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States). By this definition, the US government estimates that 70-75% of all cloth production globally, by weight, is broadwoven.[9]
Narrow-loom cloth is still made by in artisanal weaving. Traditional-format textiles in narrow widths are also machine-made. These are used from makingtraditional garments and other traditional textile items.
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![Preparing to weave geringsing on a back-strap loom. Geringseng is a culturally-significant double ikat fabric of Bali.[17][18]](/mt/?noimg=&dark=on&url=http%3a%2f%2fwww.wikipedia.org%2fwiki%2fFile%3aGeringsing_back-strap_loom.jpg)
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Owing to the introduction of the alternative standard, a distinction arose between “broadcloth” (cloth of two yards) and “streit” or “strait” (narrow cloth of one yard).
{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: publisher location (link)There are two descriptions at woollen goods exported to Ireland, one broad cloth, the other narrow cloth. The average price of narrow cloth I estimate at three shillings and four pence per yard ; the lowest general price being one shilling and eight pence per yard. The average price of broad cloth exported to Ireland I should estimate at six shillings and eight pence per yard.
Narrow Cloth — Trade term for fabrics less than 29 inches wide ; wider cloths called broad
