A basin ofurban ecology,[23][24] Metz gained its nickname ofThe Green City (French:La Ville Verte),[25] as it has extensive open grounds and public gardens.[26] The historic city centre is one of the largest commercial pedestrian areas in France.[27][28]
In ancient times, the town was known as "city ofMediomatrici", being inhabited by the tribe of the same name.[31] After its integration into theRoman Empire, the city was calledDivodurum Mediomatricum, meaning Holy Village or Holy Fortress of the Mediomatrici,[32] then it was known asMediomatrix.[31] During the 5th century AD, the name evolved to "Mettis", which gave rise to the current spelling, Metz,[31] but also spellings such asMès, which are no longer used, but reflect its actual pronunciation in French (like "mess").[33]
With the signature of theTreaty of Chambord in 1552, Metz passed into the hands of theKings of France.[8][36] As the German Protestant Princes who traded Metz (alongside Toul and Verdun) for the promise of French military assistance, had no authority to cede territory of the Holy Roman Empire, the change of jurisdiction was not recognised by the Holy Roman Empire until theTreaty of Westphalia in 1648. Under French rule, Metz was selected as capital of theThree Bishoprics and became a strategic fortified town.[8][37] With creation of thedepartments by theEstates-General of 1789, Metz was chosen as capital of theDepartment of Moselle.[8]
Metz is located on the banks of theMoselle and theSeille rivers, 43 km (27 mi) from theSchengentripoint where the borders of France, Germany and Luxembourg meet.[6] The city was built in a place where many branches of the Moselle river create several islands, which are encompassed within the urban planning.[43]
The terrain of Metz forms part of theParis Basin and presents a plateau relief cut by river valleys presentingcuestas in the north–south direction.[44] Metz and its surrounding countryside are included in the forest and cropLorraine Regional Natural Park, covering a total area of 205,000 ha (506,566 acres).[45]
Lorraine has anoceanic climate.[46] tending to continental humid. The summers are warm and humid, sometimes stormy, and the warmest month of the year is July, when daytime temperatures average approximately 25 °C (77.0 °F). The winters are cold but not often snowy with temperature dropping to an average low of −0.5 °C (31.1 °F) in January. Lows can be much colder through the night and early morning and rare snow can fall during a period extending from November to February.[47]
The length of the day varies significantly over the course of the year.[48] The shortest day is 21 December with 7:30 hours of sunlight; the longest day is 20 June with 16:30 hours of sunlight. The median cloud cover is 93% and does not vary substantially over the course of the year.[47]
Climate data for Metz-Frescaty, elevation: 192 m (630 ft), 1991–2020 normals, extremes 1940–present
Metz with its magnificent open countries, prolific undulating rivers, wooded hillsides, vineyards of fire; cathedral all in volute, where the wind sings as a flute, and responding to it via the Mutte: this big voice of the good Lord![51]
The inhabitants of Metz are calledMessin(e)s. Statistics on the ethnic and religious make up of the population of Metz are haphazard, as theFrench Republic prohibits making distinctions between citizens regarding race, beliefs, and political and philosophic opinions in the process of census taking.[52]
The French nationalcensus of 2018 estimated the population of Metz to be 116,581, while the population of Metzmetropolitan area was about 368,000.[3] Through history, Metz's population has been affected by the vicissitudes of the wars and annexations involving the city, which have prevented continuous population growth. More recently, the city has suffered from the restructuring of the military and the metallurgy industry.[53] The historical population for the current area of Metz municipality is as follows:
Graphs are unavailable due to technical issues. Updates on reimplementing the Graph extension, which will be known as the Chart extension, can be found onPhabricator and onMediaWiki.org.
Thelocal law (French:droit local) applied in Metz is a legal system that operates in parallel withFrench law. Created in 1919, it preserves the French laws applied in France before 1870 and maintained by the Germans during the annexation ofAlsace-Lorraine, but repealed in the rest of France after 1871. It also maintains German laws enacted by theGerman Empire between 1871 and 1918, specific provisions adopted by the local authorities, and French laws that have been enacted after 1919 to be applicable only in Alsace-Lorraine. This specific local legislation encompasses different areas including religion, social work and finance.
The most striking of the legal differences between France and Alsace-Lorraine is the absence in Alsace-Lorraine of strictsecularism, even though a constitutional right offreedom of religion is guaranteed by the French government. Alsace-Lorraine is still governed by a pre-1905 law established by theConcordat of 1801, which provides for the public subsidy of theRoman Catholic,Lutheran andCalvinist churches and theJewish religion.
Like every commune of the presentFrench Republic, Metz is managed by a mayor (French:maire) and a municipal council (French:conseil municipal), democratically elected bytwo-roundproportional voting for six years.[57] The mayor is assisted by 54 municipal councillors,[58] and the municipal council is held on the last Thursday of every month.[59][60] Since 2008,[61] the mayor of Metz has beensocialist Dominique Gros.[62]
The city is famous for its yellow limestone architecture, a result of the extensive use ofJaumont stone.[66][71] The historic district has kept part of theGallo-Roman city with Divodurum'sCardo Maximus, then called Via Scarponensis (today the Trinitaires, Taison and Serpenoise streets), and theDecumanus Maximus (today En Fournirue and d'Estrées streets).[72] At the Cardo and Decumanusintersection was situated theRoman forum, today theSaint-Jacques Square.
The Imperial District was built during the first annexation of Metz by theGerman Empire.[81] In order to "germanise" the city,Emperor Wilhelm II decided to create a new district shaped by a distinctive blend of Germanic architecture, including Renaissance, neo-Romanesque and neo-Classical, mixed with elements ofArt Nouveau,Art Deco, Alsatian and mock-Bavarian styles.[81] Instead ofJaumont stone, commonly used everywhere else in the city, stone used in theRhineland, such as pink and greysandstone,granite andbasalt were used.[81] The district features noteworthy buildings including therail station and the Central Post Office by German architectJürgen Kröger.[21]
Under the leadership of such people as botanistJean-Marie Pelt, Metz pioneered a policy ofurban ecology during the early 1970s.[23] Because of the failure ofpost-warurban planning andhousing estate development in Europe during the 1960s, mostly based on the concepts ofCIAM,[90][91][92] Jean-Marie Pelt, then municipal councillor of Metz, initiated a new approach to the urban environment.[24]
Based initially on the ideas of theChicago School, Pelt's theories pleaded for better integration of humans into their environment and developed a concept centered on the relationship between "stone and water".[23][93][94] His policy was realized in Metz by the establishment of extensive open areas surrounding theMoselle and theSeille rivers and the development of large pedestrian areas. As a result, Metz has over 37 m2 (400 sq ft) of open areas per inhabitant in the form of numerous public gardens in the city.[26]
Additionally, the city has developed its owncombined heat and power station, using waste woodbiomass from the surrounding forests as arenewable energy source.[99][100] With a thermal efficiency above 80%, the 45MWboiler of the plant provides electricity and heat for 44,000dwellings. The Metz power station is the first local producer and distributor of energy in France.[101]
TheGermans' Gate from the 13th century, one of the last medievalbridge castles found in France. Today, an exhibition hall
As a historicgarrison town, Metz has been heavily influenced by military architecture throughout its history.[102] Fromancient history to the present, the city has been successively fortified and modified to accommodate the troops stationed there.Defensive walls fromclassical antiquity to the 20th century are still visible today, incorporated into the design of public gardens along the Moselle and Seille rivers.[102] A medievalbridge castle from the 13th century, namedGermans' Gate (French:Porte des Allemands), today converted into a convention and exhibition centre, has become one of the landmarks of the city. It is still possible to see parts of the16th century citadel, as well as fortifications built in the 1740s byLouis de Cormontaigne but based on designs byVauban.[103][104] Important barracks, mostly from the 18th and 19th centuries, are spread around the city: some, which are of architectural interest, have been converted to civilian use, such as theArsenal Concert Hall by Spanish architectRicardo Bofill.
The extensivefortifications of Metz, which ring the city, include early examples ofSéré de Rivières system forts.[105] Other forts were incorporated into theMaginot Line.[106] A hiking trail on the Saint-Quentin plateau passes through a former military training zone and ends at the now abandoned military forts, providing a vantage point from which to survey the city.[107][108]
Although thesteel industry has historically dominated Moselle's economy, Metz's efforts at economic diversification have created a base in the sectors ofcommerce,tourism,information technology and theautomotive industry. The city is the economic heart of the Lorraine region and around 73,000 people work daily within theurban agglomeration.[109] The transport facilities found in the conurbation, including the internationalhigh-speed railway,motorway,inland connections and the localbus rapid transit system, have made the city a transport hub in the heart of the European Union.[110] Metz is home to the biggest harbour handlingcereals in France with over 4,000,000 tons/year.[111]
Metz is an important commercial centre of northern France with France's biggest retailer federation, consisting of around 2,000 retailers.[112] Importantretail companies are found in the city, such as theGaleries Lafayette, thePrintempsdepartment store and theFnac entertainment retail chain. The historic city centre displays one of the largest[citation needed] commercial pedestrian areas in France and a mall, the Saint-Jacques centre. In addition there are several multiplex movie theatres and malls found in the urban agglomeration.
In recent years[which?], Metz municipality have promoted an ambitious policy of tourism development, including urban revitalization and refurbishment of buildings and public squares.[113][114] This policy has been spurred by the creation of theCentre Pompidou-Metz in 2010.[115] Since its inauguration, the institution has become the most popular cultural venue in France outside Paris, with 550,000 visitors per year.[116] Meanwhile,Saint-Stephen Cathedral is the most visited building in the city, accommodating 652,000 visitors per year.[117]
Another of the city's churches displays a complete set of stained glass windows by FrenchmodernistJean Cocteau.[123]
In addition, Metz features other museums and exhibition venues, such as:
TheFRAC Lorraine, a public collection ofcontemporary art of theLorraine region. It is located in the 12th-century Saint-LiverHôtel and organizes exhibitions of local and international contemporary artists.[124]
TheGolden Courtyard (French:la Cour d'Or), a museum dedicated to the history of Metz, divided into four sections (e.g. archeology, medieval, architecture and fine arts).[125] The Golden Courtyard displays a rich collection of Gallo-Roman and medieval finds and the remains of the Gallo-Roman baths ofDivodurum Mediomatricum, revealed by the extension works to the museums in the 1930s.
The Museum of the 1870 War and of the Annexion inGravelotte, a village located within the Metz-Metropole conurbation and the site of theBattle of Gravelotte, the only museum in Europe dedicated to theFranco-Prussian War.[126] The museum exhibits military and everyday items from the period as well as artworks related to the 1870 war. A mausoleum erected in 1904 honoring the soldiers who died during the battle, the Memorial Hall (French:La Halle du Souvenir), has been included in the museum.
The House for Europe, located on the estate ofRobert Schuman inScy-Chazelles in the Metz-Metropole conurbation, transformed into a museum and convention centre.[127] Across the street is the fortified 12th Century church where Robert Schuman now rests. The Robert Schuman House for Europe organises cultural and educational events that introduce the visitor to Schuman's life and works and to the way Europe has been constructed and continues to develop today.
Verlaine's House (French:la Maison de Verlaine) is a museum located in the house where the poetPaul Verlaine was born, dedicated to his work, featuring permanent and temporary exhibitions.[56][128] TheSolange Bertrand foundation, located in the artist's former house, conserves and displays her artworks.[129] The municipal archives preserve and exhibit Metz's historical municipal records dating from medieval times to the present.[130]
Metz has several venues for the performing arts. TheOpera House of Metz, the oldest workingopera house in France, features plays, dance and lyric poetry.[131] TheArsenal Concert Hall, dedicated toart music, is widely renowned for its excellent acoustics.[132][133] The Trinitarians Club is a multimedia arts complex housed in the vaulted cellar and chapel of an ancient convent, the city's prime venue forjazz music.[134] The Music Box (French:Boîte à Musique), familiarly known as BAM, is the concert venue dedicated to rock and electronic music.[135] The Braun Hall and theKoltès Theater feature plays, and the city has twomovie theaters specializing inAuteur cinema. TheSaint-Jacques Square, surrounded by busy bars and pubs whose open-air tables fill the centre of the square.
Since 2014, the former bus garage has been converted to accommodate over thirty artists in residence, in a space where they can create and rehearse artworks and even build set decorations.[136] The artistic complex, called Metz Network of All Cultures (French:Toutes les Cultures en Réseau à Metz) and familiarly known as TCRM-Blida, encompasses a large hall of 3,000 m2 (32,000 sq ft) while theater and dance companies benefit from a studio of 800 m2 (8,600 sq ft) with backstages.[citation needed]
Metz was an important cultural centre during theCarolingian Renaissance.[12] For instance,Gregorian chant was created in Metz during the 8th century as a fusion of Gallican and ancient Roman repertory. Then called Messin Chant, it remains the oldest form of music still in use in Western Europe. The bishops of Metz, notablySaint-Chrodegang promoted its use for the Roman liturgy in Gallic lands under the favorable influence of the Carolingian monarchs. Messin chant made two major contributions to the body of chant: it fitted the chant into the ancient Greekoctoechos system, and invented an innovativemusical notation, usingneumes to show the shape of a remembered melody.[137] Metz was also an important centre ofillumination ofCarolingian manuscripts, producing such monuments of Carolingian book illumination as theDrogo Sacramentary.[138][139]
TheMetz School (French:École de Metz) was an art movement in Metz and the region between 1834 and 1870, centred onCharles-Laurent Maréchal.[140] The term was originally proposed in 1845 by the poetCharles Baudelaire, who appreciated the works of the artists. They were influenced byEugène Delacroix and inspired by the medieval heritage of Metz and its romantic surroundings.[140] The Franco-Prussian War and the annexation of the territory by the Germans resulted in the dismantling of the movement. The main figures of the Metz School were Charles-Laurent Maréchal,Auguste Migette,Auguste Hussenot [fr],Louis-Théodore Devilly,Christophe Fratin andCharles Pêtre [fr].[140] Their works include paintings, engravings, drawings, stained-glass windows and sculptures.
A festival named "passages" takes place in May. Numerous shows are presented to it.[141]
The Graoully is depicted as a fearsome dragon, vanquished by the sacred powers ofSaint Clement of Metz, the first Bishop of the city. The Graoully quickly became a symbol of Metz and can be seen in numerous insignia of the city, from the 10th century on.[142] Writers from Metz tend to present the legend as an allegory of Christianity's victory overpaganism, represented by the harmful dragon.[142]
Local specialties includequiche,potée, Lorrainepâté and alsosuckling pig.[143][144] Various dishes such as jam, tart,charcuterie andfruit brandy are made from theMirabelle andDamsons.[143][144] Metz is the home of somepastries, such as Metz cheese pie and Metz Balls (French:boulet de Metz), a ganache-stuffed biscuit coated withmarzipan, caramel and dark chocolate.[143] Local beverages includeMoselle wine and Amos beer.[143][144] TheCovered Market of Metz is one of the oldest and most grandiose in France and is home to traditional local food producers and retailers. It was originally built as the bishop's palace but theFrench Revolution broke out before the Bishop of Metz could move in and the citizens decided to turn it into a food market.[145] The adjacent Chamber's Square (French:Place de la Chambre) is surrounded by numerous restaurants serving local food.
Many events are celebrated in Metz throughout the year.[146] The city of Metz dedicates two weeks to theMirabelle plum during the popular Mirabelle Festival held in August. During the festival, in addition to open markets selling fresh plums, mirabelle tarts and mirabelle liquor, there are live music, fireworks, parties, art exhibits, a parade with floral floats, a competition, the crowning of the Mirabelle Queen and a gala of celebration.[147]
Metz is home to the Football Club of Metz (FC Metz), a football association club inLigue 1, the highest division of French football (as of 2019–2020 season). FC Metz has won three times theLigue 2 (1935, 2007 and 2014), twice theCoupe de France (in 1984 and 1988) and theFrench League Cup (in 1986 and 1996), and wasFrench championship runner-up in 1998.[149] FC Metz has also gained recognition in France and Europe for its successful youth academy, winning theGambardella Cup 3 times in 1981, 2001 and 2010.[149] TheSaint-Symphorien stadium has been the home of FC Metz since the creation of the club.
Metz Handball is aHandball club. Metz Handball has won the French Women's First League championship 23 times, the Women's France Cup nine times, and the French Women's League Cup eight times.[150] TheMetz Arena has been the home of Metz Handball since 2002.
Metz has numerous high schools, including theFabert High School and the Lycée of Communication. Some of these institutions offer higher education courses such asclasses préparatoires (undergraduate school) orBTS (technician certificate).
Metz is also home to the University of Lorraine (often abbreviated as UL).[159] The university is divided into two university centers, one in Metz (material sciences, technology and management) and one inNancy (biological sciences, health care, administration, management and law). The University of Lorraine, which ranks in 2016 among the top 15 of French universities and among the top 300 of universities in the world according to the 2016Academic Ranking of World Universities,[160] has a student body of over 55,000 and offers 101 accredited research centers organized in 9 research areas and 8 doctoral colleges.[161]
At the end of the 1990s, the city expanded and theMetz Science Park was created in the southern area. Along with this expansion, several graduate schools took the opportunity to establish campuses in the park. At first, facilities were grouped around the lake Symphony, likeSupélec in 1985 andGeorgia Tech Lorraine in 1990.[162] In 1996, the engineering schoolArts et Métiers ParisTech (ENSAM) built a research and learning center next to the golf course.[163] This opened the way to the development of a new area, where the Franco-German university (ISFATES) and the ENIM moved in 2010. These graduate schools often cooperate with the University of Lorraine. For instance, the university and ENSAM share research teams, laboratories, equipments and doctoral programs. TheÉcole supérieure d'ingénieurs des travaux de la construction de Metz is also located in the city.
Public transport includes abus rapid transit system, called Mettis.[164] Mettis vehicles are high-capacityhybrid bi-articulated buses built byVan Hool,[165] and stop at designated elevated tubes, complete with disability access. Mettis has its own planned and integratedtransportation system, which includes two dedicated lines that spread out into the Metz conurbation. Mettis lanes A and B serve the city's major facilities (e.g., city centre, university campus and hospitals), and atransport hub is located next to the railway station.
Metz Railway Station is connected to the French high speed train (TGV) network, which provides a direct rail service toParis andLuxembourg. The time from Paris (Gare de l'Est) to Metz is 82 minutes. Additionally, Metz is served by theLorraine TGV railway station, located atLouvigny, 25 km (16 mi) to the south of Metz, for high speed trains going toNantes,Rennes,Lille andBordeaux (without stopping inParis). Also, Metz is one of the main stations of the regional express trains system,Métrolor.
Metz is located at the confluence of theMoselle and theSeille rivers, bothnavigable waterways. The marina connects Metz to the cities of the Moselle valley (i.e.Trier,Schengen andKoblenz) via the Moselle river.
Saint Maximin's church featuring stained glass windows by French artistJean Cocteau,[168] and the Sainte-Thérèse-de-l'Enfant-Jésus church built by French architectRoger-Henri Expert.[82]
the German's Gate from the 13th century, the last medievalbridge castle in France. The fortification played a crucial defensive role during thesiege of Metz in 1552–53 by EmperorCharles V.
theFort of Queuleu, also called the Hell of Queuleu (French:l'Enfer de Queuleu), used by the Germans as a detention and interrogation centre for members of theFrench Resistance during the Second World War.[170]
^abcCollectif (2009) Monumental 2009 – semestriel 1. Coll. Monumental. Eds. Guides archeologiques de la France.ISBN978-2-7577-0055-6(in French)
^abcDelestre X. (1988) Saint-Pierre-aux-Nonnains (Metz – Moselle): de l'époque romaine à l'époque gothique. Eds. Guides archeologiques de la France.ISBN978-2-85822-439-5(in French)
^A law from 1872 forbids the collection by the state of census data based on questions about religious beliefs. TheFrench Third Republic considered that kind of information to be private and that any citizen of the Republic should be considered as equal of his mates, regardless his provocative and potentiallydivisive[clarification needed]. In accordance with the concept oflaïcité, this principle was reaffirmed by the currentFrench Fifth Republic in a law from 1978, stating that "it is forbidden to collect or process data of a personal nature related to racial or ethnic origins as well as political, philosophic, or religious opinions."
^Wagner P.E. and Jollin J.L. (1987) 15 siècles d'architecture et d'urbanisme autour de la cathédrale de Metz. Eds. Serpenoise.ISBN978-2-87692-004-0 pp. 123–276(in French)
^Collectif (2006) L'hôtel de l'Intendance, Préfecture de la Moselle et de la région Lorraine, Metz, N°310. Coll. Itinéraires du patrimoines. Eds. Serpenoise.ISBN2-913411-22-3(in French)
This article incorporates text from a publication now in thepublic domain: Herbermann, Charles, ed. (1913). "Metz".Catholic Encyclopedia. New York: Robert Appleton Company.
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