| Malvasia | |
|---|---|
| Grape (Vitis) | |
 Malvasia grapes on the vine | |
| Color of berry skin | White |
| Species | Vitis vinifera |
| Also called | Malvazia |
| Origin | Greece |
| Notable regions | Mediterranean, California |
Malvasia (Italian:[malvaˈziːa]), also known asMalvazia, is a group ofwinegrape varieties grown historically in theMediterranean region andMacaronesia, but now grown in many of thewinemaking regions of the world. In the past, the names Malvasia, Malvazia, andMalmsey have been used interchangeably for Malvasia-based wines; however, in modernoenology, "Malmsey" is now used almost exclusively for a sweet variety ofMadeira wine made from the Malvasia grape. Grape varieties in this family include Malvasia bianca, Malvasia di Schierano, Malvasia negra, Malvasia nera, Malvasia nera di Brindisi, Malvasia di Candia aromatica,[1] Malvasia odorosissima,[1] and a number of other varieties.[2]
Malvasia wines are produced inGreece (regions ofPeloponnese,Cyclades andCrete),Italy (includingFriuli-Venezia Giulia,Lombardia,Apulia,Sicily,Lipari,Emilia-Romagna, andSardinia),Slovenia (includingIstria),Croatia (includingIstria),Corsica, theIberian Peninsula, theCanary Islands, the island ofMadeira,California,Arizona,New Mexico,Australia andBrazil. These grapes are used to produce white (and more rarely red) table wines,dessert wines, andfortified wines of the same name, or are sometimes used as part of a blend of grapes, such as inVin Santo.
Mostampelographers believe that the Malvasia family of grapes are of ancient origin, most likely originating inCrete,Greece.[3] The name "Malvasia" comes from the Italian name forMonemvasia, a medieval and early RenaissanceByzantine fortress on the coast ofLaconia; the town's port acted as a trading center for wine produced in the easternPeloponnese and perhaps in some of theCyclades. During theMiddle Ages, the Venetians became so prolific in the trading of Malvasia wine that merchant wine-shops inVenice were known asmalvasie.[3] The occasional claim that the name might come from the district ofMalevizi, nearIraklion, Crete, is not taken seriously by scholars.[4][5]
Malmsey was one of the three major wines exported fromGreece inmedieval times. (For other examples, seeRumney wine andCretan wine).
English historical tradition associates Malmsey wine with the 1478 death ofGeorge Plantagenet, 1st Duke of Clarence,[6] brother of KingEdward IV of England. Following his conviction for treason, he was "privately executed" at the Tower of London on 18 February 1478, by tradition in the Bowyer Tower; soon after the event, the rumour gained ground that hewas drowned in abutt of malmsey wine, as dramatized inShakespeare'sRichard III..[7]
Both Monemvasia and Candia have lent their names to modern grape varieties. In Greece there is a variety known as Monemvasia, evidently named afterthe port, though now grown primarily in the Cyclades. In western Europe, a common variety of Malvasia is known asMalvasia Bianca di Candia (white malmsey of Crete), from its reputed origin in that area. The Monemvasia grape was long thought to be ancestral to the western European Malvasia varieties, but recentDNA analysis does not suggest a close relationship between Monemvasia and any Malvasia varieties. DNA analysis does, however, suggest that theAthiri wine grape (a variety widely planted throughout Greece) is ancestral to Malvasia.[8][9]
Most varieties of Malvasia are closely related to Malvasia bianca. One notable exception is the variety known asMalvasia di Candia which is a distinctly different sub-variety of Malvasia. Malvasia bianca is grown widely throughout the world in places like Italy;Sitges inCatalonia, with the renowned variety Malvasia de Sitges; theSan Joaquin Valley of California; or the Greek Islands ofParos andSyros.[3] ThroughoutCentral Italy, Malvasia is often blended withTrebbiano to add flavor and texture to the wine. In Rioja, it performs a similar function when blended withViura.[10]
With recorded presence in Catalonia since early 14th century. Legend has it that a soldier from theAlmogàvers fleet commanded byRoger de Flor brought a stem of malvasia from theeastern Mediterranean. But theChronicle (1325) byRamon Muntaner acknowledges its name, value and origin.[11] It was widely grown and exported since medieval times until the advent ofphylloxera. Being prone tomildew and other attacks, its cultivation now is much diminished, but the wines produced with it are still highly appreciated globally.
This variety is now only grown in the countryside ofSitges and its surroundings. The grape must, once fermented, gives way to a fragrant, sweet drink with a high alcohol content which is usually drunk after celebrations and after thexatonadas. Nevertheless, it is also used in the preparation of various meat dishes, such as duck breast with raisins or pig's trotters. Its unusual bouquet is the result of various factors: proximity to the sea, a late harvest and the considerable alcohol content and acidity of the wine.[12]
Malvasia de Sitges is an authorised vine variety in theDOPs ofPenedès andCatalunya.[13]
Malvazija Istarska got the name after peninsula ofIstria shared between Croatia, Slovenia and Italy (see also Slovene and Italian varieties). It represents one of the main white wines ofCroatian Istria and the north Dalmatian coast. The vine was introduced to the area by Venetian merchants who broughtcuttings from Greece.[3] The malvasia is calledmalvazija inCroatian. It is the main white wine in the region.
The DalmatianMaraština (also known asRukatac etc.) is identical to the Italian varietyMalvasia Lunga.
Malvasia Bianca di Candia is Italy's most widely planted Malvasia.
In Italy this wine is grown in theFriuli-Venezia Giulia region inCollio DOC andIsonzo DOC. The name comes from theIstria peninsula, which takes in parts of Croatia, Slovenia, and Italy (see also Croatian and Slovene varieties). The vine was introduced into the area by Venetian merchants who broughtcuttings from Greece. Malvasia Istriana is also found in theColli Piacentini region ofEmilia, where it is used to makesparkling wine known locally aschampagnino or "littleChampagne".[3]
In the 19th century and early 20th century, sweetpassito style dessert wines made from the Malvasia grape were held in high esteem and considered among Italy's finest wines. Following theSecond World War, lack of interest in the consumer market led to a sharp decline in plantings, with many varieties going to the verge of extinction. Today only a few dedicated producers are still making these Malvasia dessert wines from local varieties including the Malvasia di Grottaferrata inLazio and the Malvasia di Bosa and Malvasia di Planargia inSardinia.[3]
Since the 1980s, dessert wines made from the Malvasia delle Lipari variety has seen a resurgence in interest on thevolcanicAeolian Islands off the north east coast of Sicily. With distinctiveorange notes, this Sicilian wine saw its peak of popularity just before thephylloxera epidemic, when more than 2.6 million gallons (100,000hectoliters) were produced annually.[3]
While most varieties of Malvasia produce white wine, Malvasia nera is a red wine variety that in Italy is used primarily as a blending grape, being valued for the dark color and aromatic qualities it can add to a wine.Piedmont is the only significant region to make this varietal Malvasia nera, with two DOC zones covering less than 250 acres (100 hectares): Malvasia di Casorzo andMalvasia di Castelnuovo Don Bosco. In theApulian regions ofBrindisi andLecce it is blended withNegroamaro, while in the 1970s & 1980s, it was a frequent blending partner ofSangiovese inTuscany. In recent times,Cabernet Sauvignon has been supplanting Malvasia nera in Tuscany in both planting and in use as a blending partner with Sangiovese.[3] Other regions growing Malvasia nera include theBolzano region ofAlto Adige, Sardinia,Basilicata andCalabria. Malvasia nera wines are often noted for their rich chocolate notes withblack plums and floral aromas.[10]
TheLazio region ofFrascati is the source of the majority of plantings of Malvasia di Candia, a distinct sub-variety of Malvasia that is not part of the Malvasia bianca branch of the grape family. It is most often used for blending with the related Malvasia Puntinata and Malvasia di Lazio being more highly prized due to their higheracidity and tendency to produce less flabby wines.[10]
InPortugal, there are no fewer than 12 varieties known as "Malvasia". They may or may not be related to true Malvasia.[3]
In 2004, there was nearly 18,533 acres (7500 ha) of Malvasia Fina grown in Portugal where it is also known as Boal (though it is most likely not related to the grapeBual which is used to produce the Boal style of Madeira). Malvasia Fina is found in theDouro where it is a permitted grape in the production of whitePort. It is also found in theTejo and theDão DOC where it is grown on vineyard land located at high elevations.[3]
Malvasia Candida (different from the variety known as Malvasia di Candia) has been historically grown on the island of Madeira being used to produce the sweetest style of Madeira wine knownMalmsey.[3]
Malvasia Rei is believed to be thePalomino grown inSpain forSherry production which may be related to the Malvasia family. In Portugal, Malvasia Rei is grown in the Douro,Beiras andLisboa region.[3]
Malvasia Corada is asynonym used in the Douro for an obscure white wine grape variety known asVital that may or may not be related to true Malvasia.[3]
Malvasia da Trincheira is a synonym used in the Douro for the white Port grapeFolgasão that may or may not be related to true Malvasia.[3]
InSlovenian Istria the malvasia grape is grown in Koper area, especially onDebeli Rtič,Škocjan, Kortina andLabor. It is also grown in Italy and Croatia (see Italian and Croatian varieties). The vine was introduced to the area in the 14th century by Venetian merchants who broughtcuttings from Greece.[3] Over matured grapes give a dessert wine with non-fermented sugars and high alcohol level (around 12%) calledsweet malvasia (Slovene and Croatian: sladka/slatka malvazija).[14]
In Spain the Malvasía name is a synonym forAlarije, a white grape variety fromExtremadura, south-west Spain, but this variety is genetically distinct from the true Malvasias of Malvasi di Lipari (under the Spanish name Malvasía Rosada) and Malvasía de Lanzarote grown in Canary Islands. Malvasía de Lanzarote is a white variety from the Canary Islands, that may be a natural cross between Mavasi di Lipari and Marmajuelo.[13]
Malvasía Rosada is a red grape variety that is a colour mutation of Malvasi di Lipari / Malvasía de Sitges, and grown on the Canary Islands.[15]
The name Malvasia Fina is for a Portuguese variety that goes under the synonyms Gual and Torrontés in Spain.
The various varieties of Malvasia are known under a wide range of synonyms including Malvasier inGermany, Malvazija and Malvazia inIstria. Despite its similar-sounding name, the French grape varieties (it is a widely used synonym) referred to variously as "Malvoisie" are not related to Malvasia. The one possible exception may be the Malvoisie ofCorsica that ampelographers believe is actually theVermentino grape that may be related to Malvasia.[3] Other synonyms for the various sub-varieties of Malvasia include Uva Greca, Rojal, Subirat, Blanquirroja, Blancarroga, Tobia, Cagazal and Blanca-Rioja.[16]
While differences among the many sub-varieties of Malvasia exist, there are some commonviticultural characteristics of the family. Malvasia tends to prefer dry climates with vineyards planted on sloping terrain of well-drained soils. In damp conditions, the vine can be prone to developing variousgrape diseases such asmildew and rot. The rootstock is moderately vigorous and capable of producing highyields if not kept in check.[16]
Given the broad expanse of the Malvasia family, generalizations about the Malvasia wine are difficult to pinpoint. Most varieties of Malvasia are derived from Malvasia bianca which is characterized by its deep color, notedaromas and the presence of someresidual sugar. The red varieties of Malvasia tend to make wines with pale, pinkish to light red color.[3] In their youth, Malvasia wines are characterized by their heavybody that is often described as "round" or "fat" and soft texture in the mouth. Common aroma notes associated with Malvasia includepeaches,apricots andwhite currants. Red Malvasia wines are characterized by a richness andchocolate notes. Fortified Malvasia, such as Madeira, are noted for their intense smokey notes and sharp acidity. As Malvasiaages, the wines tend to take on more nutty aromas and flavors though many Malvasia have a short life span of only a few years aftervintage.[10]
In the past, the names "Malvasia" and "Malmsey" occurred interchangeably. As of 2014[update], however, "Malvasia" generally refers to unfortified white table or dessert wines produced from this grape, while "Malmsey" refers to a sweet variety ofMadeira wine, though this is also sometimes called "Malvasia" or "Malvazia". Further confusion results from the fact that, in the past, the term "Malmsey" referred to any very sweet Madeira wine, regardless of the grape variety involved. This resulted from the devastation of Madeiran vineyards byphylloxera in the late 19th century, which greatly reduced the production of Malvasia and other "noble grape" varieties on Madeira for the next century. As a result, most non-vintage-dated "Malmsey" was made from the widely grownTinta Negra Mole or even fromfox grape varieties. This changed when Portugal entered theEuropean Union (EU) in 1986; EU regulations required that any wine bearing the name "Malmsey" contain at least 85% Malvasia grapes. Even further confusion results from the fact that vintage-dated Malmseys are often labeled "Malvasia" or "Malvazia", probably because the relatively rare vintage Malvasias were always made with Malvasia grapes even when most non-vintage "Malmsey" came from lesser varieties.[17] Some companies occasionally use the name "Malvasia" or "Malvazia" for non-vintage Madeiras, especially those primarily marketed to Portuguese-speaking countries.
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