Looe
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  Looe Location withinCornwall | |
| Population | 5,112 (United Kingdom Census 2011) |
| OS grid reference | SX254533 |
| Civil parish |
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| Unitary authority | |
| Ceremonial county | |
| Region | |
| Country | England |
| Sovereign state | United Kingdom |
| Post town | LOOE |
| Postcode district | PL13 |
| Dialling code | 01503 |
| Police | Devon and Cornwall |
| Fire | Cornwall |
| Ambulance | South Western |
| UK Parliament | |
| 50°21′14″N4°27′14″W / 50.354°N 4.454°W /50.354; -4.454 | |
Looe (/ˈluː/;Cornish:Logh,[1]lit. 'deep water inlet') is a coastal town andcivil parish in south-eastCornwall, England, United Kingdom, with a population of 5,280 at the 2011 census.[2][3]
Looe is 20 miles (32 km) west ofPlymouth and seven miles (11 km) south ofLiskeard,[4] divided in two by theRiver Looe, East Looe (Cornish:Logh[1]) and West Looe (Cornish:Porthbyghan,[1]lit. "little cove") being connected bya bridge.[5] Looe developed as two separate towns each with MPs and its own mayor.
The town centres around a small harbour and along the steep-sided valley of the River Looe which flows between East and West Looe to the sea beside a sandy beach. Offshore to the west, opposite the stonier Hannafore Beach, liesLooe Island.
Archaeological evidence indicates that the area around Looe has been inhabited since theNeolithic period (although a possible series of ancient field systems, south of nearby Penarthtown, could suggest earlierPalaeolithic activity).[6] A Neolithic stone axe, made ofgreenstone, was found in 1978 on a tidal gravel bank in the bed of West Looe River.[7] Further Neolithic finds, such as flint arrow heads, have also been found in the fields above Trenant Point.[8] Furthermore, the site of a large perfectBronze Agetumulus and most likely the site for a post medievalbeacon[9] was located in a field just north of Hillcrest Nursing home in East Looe. Unfortunately, some time after 1823 the site was levelled,[9] thus leaving no trace of the large barrow to be seen today. Additionaltumuli have also been noted in the area of Looe, such as at the locally known Wooldown field[10] and at the base of Shutta hill,[11] however neither of the tumuli are visible today. Throughout the Looe area, there are also numerousIron Age andRomano-British forts. These include the nearby forts/settlements nearTrelawne and Great Tree.
Additionally, there are some archaeological evidence to suggest there was some small scaleRoman influence and possible occupation in Looe. For example, during the early 1800s, a very probable Romanurn was found whilst developing the road on St Martins hill. It is said that the urn was brown in colour, was about 10 inches high and contained several burnt human bone fragments.[12] Close to the spot where the urn was found, a rock containing numerous specimens ofbivalve shells, most likelyTerebratula, was found. Unfortunately however, the exact location of the burial and the whereabouts of the urn has been lost to time.[12] Subsequently, earthwork remains, of two rectilinear enclosures, can be seen usingLiDar in fields nearTrelawne just outside Looe.Morphology suggests that the southern enclosure could possibly be a Roman signal station however the site has never been formally excavated.[13] Furthermore, pieces of aRomanamphorae, stone boat anchors, Roman coins and a number of late prehistoric or Romano-British finds have been made in the vicinity of nearby Looe Island. A large bronze ingot was found by divers to the south of the island. This has led to a number of historians to suggest that the island could possibly beIctis, the tin trading island seen byPytheas in the 4th century BC and recalled byDiodorus Siculus in the 1st century BC. Additionally, a small hoard of eight late Roman coins was recovered in 2008. These coins were recovered from one of the shallow ditches forming a 'pear-shaped enclosure' which encompassed the top of Looe Island and the later Christian chapel site. All eight coins date to the late 3rd or early 4th century AD.
One of Looe's greatest archaeological mysteries is the so called 'Giant's Hedge', which is an ancient earthwork which runs over 9 miles between the Looe andFowey Estuaries. In some places it is still twelve feet high, and where it is best preserved (for example, in Willake Wood) it is stone-faced and flanked by a ditch. Over the years, there have been many theories to what the ancient earthwork may have been or its intended purpose. While the name and early folklore suggests it was built by a giant, as the rhyme goes"One day, the Devil having nothing to do, built a great hedge from Lerryn to Looe", the general consensus is that this linear earthwork marked the boundary of a post-Roman kingdom.[14] During the mid-18th century, British antiquarianWilliam Borlase believed the earthwork to be the remnants of aRoman road, that would connect Looe to theFowey estuary.[15] Whilst this theory is now disputed by some historians, there has been some archaeological finds, such as a hoard of Roman coins found atLerryn[16] and a possible Roman fort atLanreath,[17] that could back this theory. Other theories suggest that 'Giant's Hedge' is actually far more ancient and may even date back to thebronze age. For example, Dr Keith Ray, the County Archaeologist for Oxfordshire, who is making a special study of the Giant's Hedge, is convinced that it originally continued on the west side of theRiver Fowey and was defended there byCastle Dore. Along the Hedge, there are numerousbronze agebarrows,hillforts and ancient enclosures.[18] Such as the Hall Rings, Kilminorth fort, the fort at Yearle's Wood and many more. It is likely that the secrets behind 'Giant's Hedge' may never be known, perhaps the history of the Hedge could even be a combination of different time periods.
At the time of theDomesday Book in 1086 themanor of Pendrym, which included much of the site of modern-day East Looe, was still held byWilliam the Conqueror, as part of his owndemesne, which he later devolved to the Bodgrugan (Bodrigan) family. Land across the river belonged to the manors of Portalla (or Portallant) and Portbyhan (variously spelt Portbyan, Porthbyghan, Porthpyghan, among others).
Shutta, on the steep hillside over East Looe, is recorded as being inhabited by the 12th century.[19] Between 1154 and 1189Henry II granted acharter in favour ofSir Henry Bodrugan asMayor of East Looe. West Looe was given freeborough status sometime after this (the first known historical mention of the town dates from 1327) and in the 1230s East Looe secured the right to hold a weekly market and aMichaelmasfair. East Looe's layout looks like a "planted borough", a concept similar to modernnew towns, since most of its streets form a grid-like pattern.[20]
Low-lying parts of Looe continue to suffer frequentflooding when thetides are very high. For practical reasons, mostfishermen's houses in ancient Looe, like elsewhere along the south coast, were constructed with their living quarters upstairs and a storage area atground level below: forboats,tools andfishing tackle,etc; these are termed "fishermen'scellars".[21]
Some time before 1144,the Order of Saint Benedict occupiedLooe Island, building a chapel there, and the monks established a rudimentary lighthouse service usingbeacons. Another chapel was founded on an opposite hillside just outside West Looe; both are now marked only by ruins.
The parish church of East Looe was atSt Martin by Looe but there was achapel of ease in the town.St Mary's Church, East Looe was dedicated in 1259 byWalter Bronscombe,Bishop of Exeter. Despite rebuilding commencing in 1805, it has since fallen into disrepair, although the original Tower still remains. On the centre of the bridge in medieval times stood the Chapel of St Anne (dedicated in 1436): this dedication was attributed to the town chapel byDr George Oliver and has been adopted ever since, displacing that of St Mary.[22]
West Looe comprised part of theparish ofTalland since the earlyMiddle Ages, but a chapel of ease,St Nicholas' Church, West Looe was extant before 1330 when it is recorded as being further endowed and enlarged. After spells as acommon hall and a schoolhouse, this building has reverted to its original ecclesiastical use, having been substantially restored in 1852, 1862 and 1915.[22]
The town was able to provide some 20 ships for theSiege of Calais in 1347.
An early wooden bridge over the Looe River was in place by 1411; but it burned down and was replaced bythe first stone bridge, completed in 1436. This featured a chapel dedicated toSt Anne in the middle. The current bridge, a seven-archedVictorian bridge, was opened in 1853. By that time Looe had become a major port, one of Cornwall's largest, exporting localtin,arsenic andgranite, as well as hosting thrivingfishing andboatbuilding industries.
With effective civic leadership, Looe thrived in the Middle Ages and Tudor era, being both a busy port and situated with close access to the main road from London toPenzance. By then thetextile industry was an important part of the town's economy, in addition to the traditional boatbuilding and fishing (particularlypilchards andcrabs). Trade and transport to and from thrivingNewfoundland also contributed to the town's success. TheOld Guildhall in East Looe is believed to have dated from around 1450.[23]
The constituencies ofEast Looe andWest Looe were incorporated asparliamentary boroughs in 1571 and 1553 respectively. They both survived asrotten boroughs. and each returned twoMembers of Parliament (MPs) to theunreformed House of Commons until theGreat Reform Act of 1832. For example,Admiral Sir Charles Wager, a son and grandson of Kentish mariners, was an MP for West Looe early in his political career (1713–1715) and at the end of it (1741–1743). Theseal of East Looe wasblazonedAn antique one-mast vessel in it a man and boy against the side of the hulk three escutcheons each charges with three bends, with the legend "Si, comunetatis de Loo". The seal of West Looe wasAn armed man holding a bow in his right hand and an arrow in his left, with the legend "Por-tu-anvel Wys Westlo".[24]
In June 1625, the fishing port of Looe was raided byBarbary pirates who streamed into the cobbled streets and forced their way into cottages and taverns. Much to their fury, they discovered that the villagers had been forewarned of their arrival and many had fled into the surrounding orchards and meadows to escape. The pirates still managed to seize eighty mariners and fishermen.[25] Those unfortunate individuals were led away in chains toNorth Africa to be enslaved, and the town itself was torched.
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By the start of the 1800s, Looe's fortunes were in decline. TheNapoleonic Wars had taken their toll on the country; in 1803, the town formed a volunteer company to man guns in defence against attack from the French. The blockade of 1808, which prevented the Looe fleet from reaching their pilchard-fishing areas, also put considerable financial strain on the community. In 1805, the old St. Mary's Chapel (apart from thetower) had to be demolished due to dilapidation, and in 1817, the town was badly damaged by heavy storms and flooding.
With the building of theLiskeard and Looe Union Canal linking Looe toLiskeard in 1828, and the development of boomingcopper mines in theCaradon area from 1837, Looe's fortunes began to revive. The Herodsfoot mine produced 13,470 tons of lead between 1848 and 1884 and more than 17 tons of silver between 1853 and 1884. The canal was used first to transportlime fromWales for use in Cornish farming, and later to carry copper and granite between the railhead at Liskeard (from where rail links reached to theCheesewring onBodmin Moor) and the port of Looe. In 1856 the large quay of East Looe was built to handle the demands of the shipping trade, and in 1860, with the canal unable to keep up with demand,a railway was built linking Looe toMoorswater near Liskeard, along thetowpath of the canal, which was used less and less until, by 1910, traffic ceased entirely. The railway was later linked to Liskeard proper, and as the mining boom came to an end, it adapted to carry passengers in 1879.
In 1866, alifeboat station had been established on East Looe Beach, and in 1877 a new town hall was built: the newLooe Guildhall.[26] Around this time recommendations were made that the two towns be merged under one governing body, and despite much protestLooe Urban District Council was formed in 1898[27] with jurisdiction over the communities on both sides of the River Looe.[28]
With the Victorian fashion for seaside holidays, Looe evolved as a tourist town, with nearbyTalland Bay being dubbed "the playground of Plymouth". This trend continued throughout the 20th century; more and more hotels and tourist facilities were built in the town, and Looe grew and prospered, with peaks in fishing and boatbuilding following the First and Second World Wars.
New Zealand writerKatherine Mansfield stayed in Looe for spring and summer 1918, while recovering fromtuberculosis.[29] She joined there her long-time friend the American painterAnne Estelle Rice, who famously painted her in red.[30] ThePortrait of Katherine Mansfield made in Looe has been exhibited since 1946 in theTe Papa Tongarewa museum of New Zealand.
Looe and its surrounds are the filming location of BBC television crime dramaBeyond Paradise, which first aired in 2023. It stands in for the fictional Devon town of Shipton Abbott.[31]
There have beenCornish wrestling tournaments, for prizes, held in Looe (both East Looe[32] and West Looe[33]) for centuries. Venues for tournaments have included: the field at Barbican Farm,[34]the field adjoining the Old Barbican,[35]Looe Beach[36] andWest Looe Down.[37]
Looe remains a fishing town, and retained several fish dealers operating from the East Looe quayside until the advent of EU regulations.[citation needed] With its fleet of small fishing boats returning their catches to port daily, Looe has a reputation for procuring excellent fresh fish. The town is also a centre for sharkfishing, and is home to theShark Angling Club of Great Britain.[38]
Nonetheless, Looe's main business today is tourism, with much of the town given over to hotels,guest houses andholiday homes, along with a large number ofpubs,restaurants and beach equipment, ice cream andCornish pasty vendors. Inland from Looe lie many camping andcaravan sites, as well as the famousWoolly Monkey Sanctuary. Other local attractions include the beaches, sailing, fishing anddiving, and spectacular coastal walks (especially via Talland toPolperro). South East Cornwall boasts several stately homes, includingAntony House,Cotehele,Mount Edgcumbe andLanhydrock House, as well as theEden Project nearSt Austell which tourists can access by road.
Outside the busy summer months, the town remains a centre for shopping and entertainment for local villagers. Annually in late September, the town is the destination of choice for thousands of music lovers and top name performers for theLooe Music Festival, which takes place in temporary venues around the town, harbour and on East Looe beach.
There is a tradition of the townsfolk wearingfancy dress onNew Year's Eve, when the streets are thronged with revellers in inventive outfits.[39] Looe has been on the list of the top ten places in the UK to celebrate New Year, and ranked third on the list for 2007–08. Looe is regenerating itself, like many other ports, to serve as a small cargo port. On the high ground north of East and West Looe there are many modern houses and a recreational area called 'the Downs'.
East Looe centres on its broad sandy beach, with the distinctiveBanjo Pier designed byJoseph Thomas, a new lifeboat station and St Mary's Church. Stretching back from the church is a grid of narrow streets forming the main business area of the town, packed with many small shops, restaurants and pubs and the Old Guildhall, now a museum. Along the estuary lies the quay with its fish merchants. Towards Looe Bridge lies theVictorian Guildhall, and just north of the bridge therailway station. This is theterminus of theLooe Valley branch line toLiskeard, where it connects to theGreat Western Main Line and services toLondon Paddington.
On the hilltop above East Looe lies Shutta, and beyond that the Sunrisinghousing estate andLooe Community Academy.[40] Along the cliffs to the east is Plaidy Beach, and further on the bay and village ofMillendreath.
It is covered by theLooe East division ofCornwall Council.[41]
West Looe spreads west from the bridge on the Polperro Road towardsSclerder, and along the river south of the bridge, with hotels, restaurants and boarding houses along the waterfront and houses climbing the perilous cliff above, towards a cluster of shops and businesses and the Church of St. Nicholas.
West Looe rises onto the Downs, a public recreation ground, well known for local dog walkers. Beyond this is West Looe cemetery, as well as Porthbythan Road, Goonwartha Road and Tregarrick.
Further south along the coast road is Hannafore Point, marking the edge of Looe Harbour, with to the west the wide, stony Hannafore Beach, facing across a narrow channel to Looe Island. Beyond lies thecoastal path leading toPortnadler Bay, Talland andPorthallow, and then onward to Polperro. Two towers mark one end of anautical measured mile, the other end is marked by two towers near Talland Bay.[42]
It is part of theLooe West, Lansallos and Lanteglos division ofCornwall Council.[41]
OnNew Year's Eve, Looe provides a surprisingly exciting and large celebration. The small fishing town, usually quiet in winter, due to the largely seasonal economy, is host to an influx of visitors. People flock to the streets in their hundreds, wearing fancy dress, a tradition upheld by all ages. The crowds begin the evening in the town and slowly move towards the seafront for a fireworks display to see in the New Year.
Looe istwinned withQuiberon (Breton:Kiberen) inBrittany, France.[43]
{{cite journal}}:Cite journal requires|journal= (help){{cite journal}}:Cite journal requires|journal= (help)in 1898 the Looe Urban District Council came into being, comprising East and West Looe and part of the parish of Talland, and taking over management of the East Looe Town Trust
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