Alivery/ˈlɪvəri/ is an identifying design, such as a uniform, ornament, symbol, or insignia that designates ownership or affiliation, often found on an individual or vehicle. Livery often includes elements of theheraldry relating to the individual or corporate body featured in the livery. Alternatively, some kind of a personalemblem or badge, or a distinctive colour, is featured.
The word itself derives from theFrenchlivrée, meaningdispensed, handed over. Most often it would indicate that the wearer of the livery was a servant, dependant, follower or friend of the owner of the livery, or, in the case of objects, that the object belonged to them.
In the late medieval phenomenon ofbastard feudalism, livery badges worn by the "retainers" of great lords, sometimes in effect private armies, became a great political concern in England.[citation needed]
"In theBlack Book of 1483, it was laid down that each person should receive '... for his Livery at night, half a chet loaf, one quart of wine. one gallon of ale; and for Winter livery...one percher wax, one candle wax...'"[1]
"Edmund Spenser noted in 1596 that '... the liverye is sayd to be served up all night, that is theyr nyghtes allowances of drinks...'"[1][2]
In the early inventories of households, in the chambers there are a large number of "Livery Cupboards" recorded, presumably used for storing the Livery.
During the 12th century, specific colours denoting a great person began to be used for both his soldiers and his civilian followers (the two often overlapped considerably), and the modern sense of the term began to form. Usually two different colours were used together (and often with a device or badge sewn on), but the ways in which they were combined varied with rank. Often the colours used were different each year.[citation needed] In addition to embroidered badges, metal ones were sewn on to clothing, or hung on neck-chains or (by far the most prestigious)livery collars. From the 16th century onwards, only the lower-status followers tended to receive clothes in livery colours (whilst the higher status ones received cash) and the term "servant", previously much wider, also began to be restricted to describing the same people. Municipalities and corporations copied the behaviour of the great households.[3]
The term is also used to describebadges,buttons[4][5] and grander pieces of jewellery containing theheraldic signs of an individual, which were given by that person to friends, followers and distinguished visitors, as well as (in more modest forms) servants. The grandest of these is thelivery collar.William, Lord Hastings thefavourite of KingEdward IV of England had a "Coller of gold of K. Edward's lyverys" valued at the enormous sum of £40 in an inventory of 1489. This would have been similar to the collars worn by Hastings' sister and her husbandSir John Donne in theDonne Triptych byHans Memling (described inSir John Donne).[6] Lords gave their servants lead orpewter badges to sew onto their clothes.[7] In the 15th century, European royalty sometimes distributed uniform suits of clothes to courtiers, as the House ofFugger, the leading bankers, did to all employees.[8]
This practice later contracted to the provision of standardized clothing to male servants, often in a colour-scheme distinctive to a particular family. The term most notably referred to the embroideredcoats, waistcoats, knee breeches and stockings in 18th-century style, worn byfootmen on formal occasions ingrand houses. Plainer clothing in dark colours and without braiding was worn by footmen, chauffeurs and other employees for ordinary duties. For financial reasons, the employment of such servants, and their expensive dress, died out after World War I except in royal households.[9]
Most Europeanroyal courts still use their state liveries on formal occasions. These are generally in traditional national colours, and are based on 18th-century clothing with finegold embroidery. Only male royal servants normally wear livery. Kneebreeches are worn, normally with white silk stockings; one exception being the Spanish court which prescribes red.[10]
At the British royal court, scarlet state livery is still worn byfootmen, coachmen and other attendants on state occasions. The full-dress scarlet coats are handmade, and embroidered in gold braid with theroyal cypher of the monarch. Gold buttons and other trimmings are of designs and patterns which date from the 18th century, and the full state dress worn by footmen includes scarlet breeches, stockings and a sword. On other formal occasions, a 'semi-state' dress is worn: a scarlet tail coat, black trousers and a white stiff shirt and bow tie. Normal day-to-day dress (as worn by footmen on duty in the palace, except on special occasions) consists of a black tail coat and trousers, white shirt and black tie and a scarlet waistcoat with gold trimming.[11]: 313–314 Pages wear similar daily, semi-state and (very occasionally) state liveries, but in dark blue rather than scarlet. The uniform clothing issued to full-time royal staff is tailor-made, but the seldom-worn full-state dress is notbespoke; the usual practice is to select individuals whose height fits the existing ceremonial coats held in storage.[12]
Pages of Honour to the king wear scarlet (or, in Scotland, green) frock coats with blue velvet cuffs, edged all round with gold lace, with white breeches and hose, a short sword and other accoutrements.[13]
Scarlet is the livery colour of the sovereign and of the royal court. Elizabeth II also had a family livery colour, however, known as 'Edinburgh Green', which she and the Duke of Edinburgh chose in 1948. Five years later, at her coronation, while the Queen's attendants wore scarlet the page in attendance on the Duke wore a green livery edged in silver. Subsequently, Edinburgh Green became the colour used for their private cars and carriages (whereas the official vehicles are painted in a royal livery colour of maroon (or 'claret') and black).[11]: 153 The Queen, the Duchess of Cornwall, the Princess Royal, the Queen of Spain and Princess Beatrix of the Netherlands wore outfits with the shades of Edinburgh Green at athanksgiving service for the duke in 2022.[14]
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At the Belgian court liveries in traditional colours are still used at state occasions. The coats are red, and have black cuffs with golden lace. Royal cyphers are embroidered on the shoulders. The breeches are of yellow fabric. The semi-state livery worn for less formal occasions has black breeches.[16]
At the Dutch court the full state livery is blue (nassaublauw). The breeches are yellow, and cuffs are red.
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The phrase "to sue one's livery" refers to the formal recognition of a noble's majority, in exchange of payment, for conferring the powers attached to his title, and thereby freeing him from dependence as award.[17]
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From this core meaning, multiple extended or specialist meanings have derived, mostly related to exterior graphic designs on vehicles. Examples include:
The term "livery" is now rarely applied in a military context, so it would be unusual for it to refer to amilitary uniform or the painting design of a military vehicle. The modern military equivalent for "livery" is the term "standard issue", which is used when referring to the colors and regulations required in respect of any military clothing or equipment.
Early uniforms were however regarded as a form of livery ("the King's coat") during the late 17th and early 18th centuries in the European monarchies.[20] During this period, officers of the FrenchGarde du Corps (the Royal Bodyguard) successfully petitioned to not be required to wear uniforms while on duty within the palace at Versailles, since this livery suggested that they were servants rather than aristocrats.
