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Alampshade hat is a millinery design in which the hat has a small circular crown – typically flat, but sometimes rounded – and flares outwards to create a cone-like profile.[1] In shape, it may have some similarities to thepillbox andbucket hat, both of which were popular at around the same time, although the classic lampshade design is longer and more flared than a pillbox (typically ending at or below the ears) and is generally made of stiffer material than a bucket hat.
TheAsian conical hat and themushroom hat are sometimes termedlampshade, as well as any oversized or lavishly trimmed hat.[2]
The lampshade style was popularised byChristian Dior in the 1950s and remained fashionable through the next decade.[citation needed] Dior continued to feature variations in his collections into the early 1960s.[3] Early versions could be trimmed or decorated, or could rely on shape alone for effect.
Writing inThe Guardian in 1953 about the London spring collections, Clair Wilson described a: "lampshade of a hat" designed bySimone Mirman and shown atJohn Cavanagh's London show. This model was pleated and matched to a black silk cape.[4] A year later, Wilson described a new season's design that was quite close fitting, in the manner of a helmet, adding that it was: "devoid of decoration and having some relationship to the cloche in concealing most of the hair".[5]
By 1956, lampshades and pillboxes were said to be overtaking the previously popular mushroom andcartwheel designs atAscot races. A reviewer of the opening day's fashions noted: "1956 must be dismissed as an unspectacular year. Gone were the cartwheels and giant mushrooms of other years, and in their place were pill-boxes (Princess Margaret), lampshades (Princess Alexandra) and various derivations of the beret".[6]
Notable examples of the design include the red lampshade hat worn byDoris Day in the 1959 romantic comedyPillow Talk. Costumes for this film were created by French costume/fashion designerJean Louis.[7]
Like the pillbox, the lampshade remained popular into the 1960s, as hems rose andSpace Age fashions took hold. Adaptations included both close-fitting and flared designs, as well as what fashion correspondent John Hart Roberts described as the "lampshade helmet", worn with hooded pullover, walking skirt and stockings at designer Maljana'sFlorence fashion show in 1965.[8]
John Galliano, designing for Dior, showed a variety of extreme lampshade-style hats in 2008 – these were created by millinerStephen Jones.[9] The design duoDSquared2 recreated 1950s-style lampshade hats for their spring/summer 2014 fashion show in September 2013 atMilan Fashion Week.[10] Other designers showing lampshade-inspired designs for 2014, includedL'Wren Scott andLyn Devon.[citation needed]