Ahomburg is asemi-formalhat of furfelt, characterized by a single dent running down the centre of the crown (called a "gutter crown"), a wide silkgrosgrain hatband ribbon, a flat brim shaped in a "pencil curl", and a ribbon-bound trim about the edge of the brim. It is traditionally offered in black or grey.
The name comes fromBad Homburg inHesse, in theGerman Empire, where it originated ashunting headgear. It was popularised in the late 19th century by thePrince of Wales, the future KingEdward VII, as a less formal alternative to the prevalenttop hat along with thebowler hat and theboater hat. The original homburg conceived in the 19th century was of slightly more generous proportions than seen in 21st-century versions.[1] Although the homburg is traditionally associated with semi-formal wear — namely, thedinner jacket (tuxedo) andblack lounge suit (stroller) — it has been extensively applied also toinformal attire.[2]
As with other hats, it largely fell out of everyday use ofWestern dress codes for men in the 1960s.
The homburg was popularised in the 1890s by the futureEdward VII after he visitedBad Homburg inHesse,Germany, and brought back a hat of this style.[3] He was flattered when his hat style was mimicked, and at times he insisted on being copied.[4]
Anthony Eden made the black homburg so fashionable in the 1930s that it became known as "theAnthony Eden hat" onSavile Row inLondon.[5] At his1953 inauguration,Dwight D. Eisenhower broke with tradition by wearing a black homburg instead of atop hat. He also wore a homburg at hissecond inauguration,[6] a hat that took three months to craft and was dubbed the "international homburg" by hatters, since workers from ten countries participated in its making.[7]
Like other formal Western male headgear, the homburg ceased to be as common in the 21st century as it once was.Al Pacino gained some renewed fame for the homburg by wearing a grey one in the filmThe Godfather, for which reason the hat is sometimes called a "Godfather".[8] SomeOrthodox Jewishrabbis wear black homburgs to therekel, though this practice is also in decline. The homburg was always considered to be more traditional and distinguished than thefedora.
It was sometimes jocularly referred to as a "hamburger", notably by actorEdward Brophy in the 1958 filmThe Last Hurrah.
In Italy it is known as a Lobbia, fromCristiano Lobbia [it] who famously was wearing one when he was assaulted.
