The island is named after CaptainWilliam Hilton, who in 1663 identified a headland near the entrance toPort Royal Sound, which mapmakers named "Hilton's Headland." The island has a rich history that started with seasonal occupation by Native Americans thousands of years ago and continued with European exploration and the sea island cotton trade. It became an important base of operations for theUnion blockade of the Southern ports during theCivil War. Once the island fell to Union troops, hundreds of ex-slaves flocked to Hilton Head, which is still home to many of their descendants, who are known as theGullah (or Geechee). They have managed to hold on to much of their ethnic and cultural identity.[12]
The island features 12 miles (19 km) of beachfront on theAtlantic Ocean and is a popular vacation destination. In 2004, an estimated 2.25 million visitors infused more than $1.5 billion into the local economy.[13][needs update] Hilton Head Island offers an unusual number of cultural opportunities for a community its size[according to whom?], including plays at the Arts Center of Coastal Carolina, the 120-member full chorus of the Hilton Head Choral Society, the Hilton Head Symphony Orchestra, an annual outdoor, tentedwine tasting event on the east coast, and several other annual community festivals. It also hosts theRBC Heritage, aPGA Tour tournament played on theHarbour Town Golf Links inSea Pines Resort.[14]
Hilton Head Island was incorporated as a municipality in 1983 and is well known for its eco-friendly development.[15] The town's Natural Resources Division enforces the Land Management Ordinance which minimizes the impact of development and governs the style of buildings and how they are situated amongst existing trees.[16] As a result, Hilton Head Island enjoys an unusual amount of tree cover relative to the amount of development.[17] Approximately 70% of the island, including most of the tourist areas, is located insidegated communities.[18] However, the town maintains several public beach access points, including one for the exclusive use of town residents, who have approved several multimillion-dollar land-buying bond referendums to control commercial growth.[19]
The Baynard Mausoleum, built in 1846, is the oldest intact structure on the island.Fort Walker,Battle of Port Royal, November 7, 1861
TheSea Pinesshell ring can be seen near the east entrance to the Sea Pines Forest Preserve. The ring, one of at least 50 known to exist, is 150 feet (46 m) in diameter and is believed to be over 4,000 years old. Archeologists believe that the ring was a refuse heap, created by Indians who lived in the interior of the ring, which was kept clear and used as a common area. Two other shell rings on Hilton Head were destroyed when the shells were removed and used to maketabby for roads and buildings. TheGreen's Shell Enclosure, Sea Pines, andSkull Creek shell rings are listed in theNational Register of Historic Places and are protected by law.[20]
Since the beginning of recorded history in the New World, the waters around Hilton Head Island have been known, occupied and fought for in turn by the English, Spanish, French, and Scots.[21]
A Spanish expedition led by Francisco Cordillo explored the area in 1521, initiating European contact with local tribes.[22]In 1663, CaptainWilliam Hilton sailed on theAdventure fromBarbados to explore lands granted by KingCharles II of England to the eightLords Proprietor. In his travels, he identified a headland near the entrance toPort Royal Sound. He named it "Hilton's Head" after himself.[23] He stayed for several days, making note of the trees, crops, "sweet water", and "clear sweet air".[24]
Dock built by Union troops on Hilton Head Island, April 1862U.S. General Hospital, March 23, 1863Mitchelville "refugee quarters," 1864Stoney-Baynard Plantation
In 1698, Hilton Head Island was granted as part of a barony to John Bayley of Ballingclough,County of Tipperary, Kingdom of Ireland. Another John Bayley, son of the first, appointed Alexander Trench as the island's first retail agent. For a time, Hilton Head was known as Trench's Island. In 1729, Trench sold some land to John Gascoine which Gascoine named "John's Island" after himself. The land later came to be known as Jenkin's Island after another owner.[25]
In the mid-1740s, the South Carolina provincial half-galleyBeaufort was stationed in a cove at the southern tip of Hilton Head to guard against intrusions by the Spanish ofSt. Augustine. The point and cove are named after Captain David Cutler Braddock, commander of theBeaufort. Captain Braddock was a mariner andprivateer of note in Colonial times. Earlier, he had been placed in command of the Georgia schoonerNorfolk byJames Oglethorpe, founder of Georgia, and helped chase the Spanish back to St. Augustine after their failed 1742 invasion ofSt. Simons Island. After relocating to Savannah in 1746, he served two terms in the Georgia Commons House of Assembly while earning a living as a highly active privateer. He drew a well-known chart of theFlorida Keys while on a privateering venture in 1756. The chart[26] is in theLibrary of Congress.
During the revolution there was only a very small population of farmers living on Hilton Head Island. This population was exclusively Loyalist, remaining allied to Parliament and the King throughout the entirety of the revolution. However, after the revolution they chose to simply "stay on" in South Carolina and make the best of living under the new republican form of government.[27] In 1788, a smallEpiscopal church called the Zion Chapel of Ease was constructed for plantation owners. The chapel's old cemetery, located near the corner of William Hilton Parkway and Mathews Drive (Folly Field), is all that remains. Charles Davant, a prominent island planter during the Revolutionary War, is memorialized there. Davant was shot by Captain Martinangel ofDaufuskie Island in 1781.[23] This location is also home to the oldest intact structure on Hilton Head Island, the Baynard Mausoleum, which was built in 1846.
William Elliott II of Myrtle Bank Plantation grew the first crop ofSea Island Cotton in South Carolina on Hilton Head Island in 1790.
During theCivil War, Fort Walker was aConfederate fort in what is now Port Royal Plantation. The fort was a station for Confederate troops, and its guns helped protect the 2-mile wide (3 km) entrance toPort Royal Sound, which is fed by two slow-moving and navigable rivers, theBroad River and the Beaufort River. It was vital to the Sea Island Cotton trade and the southern economy.[28] On October 29, 1861, the largest fleet ever assembled in North America moved south to seize it.[29] In theBattle of Port Royal, the fort came under attack by the U.S. Navy, and on November 7, 1861, it fell to over 12,000 Union troops.[30] The fort was renamed Fort Welles, in honor ofGideon Welles, the Secretary of the Navy.[31]
Hilton Head Island had tremendous significance in the Civil War and became an important base of operations for the Union blockade of the Southern ports, particularly Savannah and Charleston. The Union also built a military hospital on Hilton Head Island with a 1,200-foot (370 m) frontage and a floor area of 60,000 square feet (6,000 m2).[32]
Hundreds of ex-slaves flocked to Hilton Head Island, where they could buy land, go to school, live in government housing, and serve in what was called theFirst Regiment of South Carolina Volunteers (although in the beginning, many were "recruited" at the point of a bayonet).[33] A community calledMitchelville (in honor of GeneralOrmsby M. Mitchel) was constructed on the north end of the island to house them.[34]
In an order from May 15, 1865, Major GeneralQuincy Adams Gillmore, who was commanding the Department of the South with headquarters at Hilton Head declared that "the people of the black race are free citizens of the United States," whose rights must be respected accordingly. He issued an additional order while based in Hilton Head saying that any plantation owners who were found to have not informed African-Americans of their new status as free people would be "made liable to the pains and penalties of disloyalty, and their lands subject to confiscation" under the act establishing the Freedmen's Bureau.[35]Martin Delany, the only black officer to reach the rank of major in the United States military during the Civil War, was also stationed at Hilton Head during this time.[36]
The Leamington Lighthouse, also known as the Hilton Head Rear Range Lighthouse, was built in the 1870s on the southern edge of what is now Palmetto Dunes Oceanfront Resort.[37][38]
In 1890, the wealthy shipping magnateWilliam P. Clyde purchased 9,000 acres on Hilton Head Island for use as a private hunting preserve.[39]
On August 27, 1893, theSea Islands Hurricane made landfall nearSavannah, with a storm surge of 16 feet (5 m), and swept north across South Carolina, killing over 1,000 people and leaving tens of thousands homeless.[40]
"The Beach Pounders" –U.S. Coast Guard Mounted Beach Patrol training on HHI during World War II.Liberty Oak in Harbour TownColigny Circle Plaza. The plaza provides public beach access to island visitors.Disney's Hilton Head Island Resort
An experimentalsteam cannon guarding Port Royal Sound was built around 1900, in what is now Port Royal Plantation. The cannon was fixed but its propulsion system allowed for long-range shots for the time.
In 1931, Wall Street tycoon, physicist, and patron of scientific researchAlfred Lee Loomis, along with his brother-in-law and partner Landon K. Thorne, purchased 17,000 acres (69 km2) on the island (over 63% of the total landmass) for about $120,000 to be used as a private game reserve.[41][42] On the Atlantic coast of the island, large concrete gun platforms were built to defend against a possible invasion by theAxis powers of World War II. Platforms like these can be found all along theEastern Seaboard. The Mounted Beach Patrol and Dog Training Center on Hilton Head Island trainedU.S. Coast Guard Beach Patrol personnel to use horses and dogs to protect the southeastern coastline of the U.S.[43]
In the early 1950s, three lumber mills contributed to the logging of 19,000 acres (77 km2) of the island.[22] The island population was only 300 residents.[22] Before 1956, access to Hilton Head was limited to private boats and a state-operated ferry. The island's economy centered on shipbuilding, cotton, lumbering, and fishing.[15]
The James F. Byrnes Bridge was built in 1956. It was a two-lane tollswing bridge constructed at a cost of $1.5 million that opened the island to automobile traffic from the mainland.[22] The swing bridge was hit by a barge in 1974, which shut down all vehicle traffic to the island until theArmy Corps of Engineers built and manned apontoon bridge while the bridge was being repaired. The swing bridge was replaced by the current four-lane bridge in 1982.[22]
The beginning of Hilton Head as a resort started in 1956 withCharles E. Fraser developingSea Pines Resort. Soon, other developments followed, such as Hilton Head Plantation, Palmetto Dunes Plantation, Shipyard Plantation, and Port Royal Plantation, imitating Sea Pines' architecture and landscaping. Sea Pines, however, continued to stand out by creating a unique locality within the plantation, called Harbour Town, anchored by a recognizable lighthouse.[44] Fraser was a committedenvironmentalist who changed the whole configuration of the marina at Harbour Town to save an ancientlive oak.[18] It came to be known as the Liberty Oak, known to generations of children who watched singer and songwriterGregg Russell perform under the tree for over 25 years.[45] Fraser was buried next to the tree when he died in 2002.[46]
The Heritage Golf Classic was first played inSea Pines Resort in 1969 and has been a regular stop on thePGA Tour ever since.[14] Also in 1969, the Hilton Head Island Community Association successfully fought off the development of aBASF chemical complex on the shores of Victoria Bluff (now Colleton River Plantation). Soon after, the association and other concerned citizens "south of the Broad" fought the development of off-shore oil platforms byBrown & Root (a division ofHalliburton) and ten-story tallliquefied natural gas shipping spheres byChicago Bridge & Iron.[47] These events helped to energize the community, and the Chamber of Commerce started drumming up support for the town to incorporate as a municipality. After the Four Seasons Resort (now Hilton Head Resort) was built along William Hilton Parkway, a referendum of incorporation was passed in May 1983, where Hilton Head Island became a town.[47]
Hilton Head Island is a shoe-shaped island that lies 20 miles (32 km) by air northeast ofSavannah, Georgia, and 90 miles (140 km) south ofCharleston.
According to theUnited States Census Bureau, the town has a total area of 69.13 square miles (179.0 km2), of which 41.35 square miles (107.1 km2) is land and 27.78 square miles (71.9 km2) (40.19%) is water.[2]
Hilton Head Island is sometimes referred to as the second largestbarrier island on the Eastern Seaboard afterLong Island (which is not a barrier island but twoglacial moraines).[50] Technically, however, Hilton Head Island is only a half barrier island. The north end of the island is asea island dating to thePleistocene epoch, and the south end is a barrier island that appeared as recently as theHolocene epoch. Broad Creek, which is a land-locked tidal marsh, separates the two halves of the island.[51]
The terrain of a barrier island is determined by a dynamic beach system with offshore bars, poundingsurf, and shiftingbeaches; as well as grassydunes behind the beach, maritimeforests withwetlands in the interiors, and salt ortidal marshes on thelee side, facing the mainland. A typical barrier island has a headland, a beach and surf zone, and a sand spit.[52]
All soils of Hilton Head Island outside of tidal marshes are sandy. Their drainage ranges from excessive to somewhat poor.[53][54]
The Coastal Discovery Museum, in conjunction with the South Carolina Department of Natural Resources, patrols the beaches from May through October as part of the Sea Turtle Protection Project.[56] The purpose of the project is to inventory and monitor nesting locations, and if necessary, move them to more suitable locations. During the summer months, the museum sponsors the Turtle Talk & Walk, which is a special tour designed to educate the public about this endangered species.[56] To protect loggerhead sea turtles, a town ordinance stipulates that artificial lighting must be shielded so that it cannot be seen from the beach, or it must be turned off by 10:00 p.m. from May 1 to October 31 each year.[57]The waters around Hilton Head Island are one of the few places on Earth where dolphins routinely use a technique called "strand feeding", whereby schools of fish are herded up onto mud banks, and the dolphins lie on their side while they feed before sliding back down into the water.[58][59]
Particularly prominent in the ocean waters surrounding Hilton Head Island, thestingray serves as a fascination and painful natural encounter for many beachgoers. Small stingrays inhabit the quieter, shallow region of ocean floor just beyond the break of the surf, typically buried beneath a thin layer of sand. Stingrays are a type of demersal,[60] cartilaginous fish common to the South Carolina coast as well as other areas on the Atlantic shoreline. Typically, stingrays avoid contact with humans unless they are accidentally stepped upon, a situation often ending in astingray injury, where the stingray punctures the human with its poisonous barb. While these injuries are extremely painful, they are not usually life-threatening as long as they are properly attended to by a medical professional.[61]
The saltmarsh estuaries of Hilton Head Island are the feeding grounds, breeding grounds, and nurseries for many saltwater species of game fish, sport fish, and marine mammals. The dense plankton population gives the coastal water its murky brown-green coloration.
Plankton support marine life including oysters, shrimp and other invertebrates, and bait-fish species includingmenhaden andmullet, which in turn support larger fish and mammal species that populate the local waterways. Popular sport fish in the Hilton Head Island area include thered drum (or spot tail bass), spotted sea trout,sheepshead,cobia,tarpon, and various shark species.[62]
At the2010 census,[7] there were 37,099 people, 16,535 households, and 10,700 families residing in the town, occupying a land area of 42.06 square miles (109 km2). The population density was 882.0 inhabitants per square mile (340.5/km2). There were 33,602 housing units at an average density of 798.9 per square mile (308.5/km2).
Although the town occupies most of the land area of the island, it is not coterminous with it; there is a small part near the main access road from the mainland, William Hilton Parkway, which is not incorporated into the town. Hilton Head (the island) therefore has a slightly higher population (48,407 in Census 2000, defined as the Hilton Head Island Urban Cluster) and a larger land area (42.65 sq mi or 110.5 km2) than the town. TheHilton Head Island-Bluffton-Port Royal, SC Metropolitan Statistical Area, which includesBeaufort andJasper counties, had a 2012 estimated year-round population of 193,882.[69]
Of the 16,535 households, 18.4% had children under the age of 18 living with them, 54.7% weremarried couples living together, 6.8% had a female householder with no husband present, and 35.3% were non-families. 28.3% of all households were made up of individuals, and 14.0% had someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average household size was 2.23 and the average family size was 2.66.
In the town, the population was spread out, with 18% under the age of 20, 4.4% from 20 to 24, 20.4% from 25 to 44, 28.4% from 45 to 64, and 28.8% who were 65 years of age or older. The median age was 50.9 years. For every 100 females, there were 103.8 males. For every 100 females age 18 and over, there were 105.5 males.
Looking over the tidal marsh to the Folly
According to a 2014 estimate,[70] the median income for a household in the town was $68,437, and the median income for a family was $85,296. Males had a median income of $51,463 versus $36,743 for females. Theper capita income for the town was $45,116. About 5.4% of families and 9.3% of the population were below thepoverty line, including 16.9% of those under age 18 and 3.9% of those age 65 or over.
Hilton Head Island in the summer of 2012Live oaks withSpanish moss on Hilton Head Island
The Town of Hilton Head Island incorporated as a municipality in 1983 and has jurisdiction over the entire island except Mariner's Cove, Blue Heron Point, and Windmill Harbor.[76] The Town of Hilton Head Island has aCouncil-Manager form of government. The Town Manager is thechief executive officer and head of the administrative branch and is responsible to the municipal council for the proper administration of all the affairs of the town. TheTown Council exercises all powers not specifically delegated to the Town Manager. TheMayor has the same powers, duties, and responsibilities as a member of the Town Council. Also, the Mayor establishes the agenda for Town Council meetings, calls special meetings, executes contracts, deeds, resolutions, and proclamations not designated to the Town Manager, and represents the town at ceremonial functions.[77]
Hilton Head Island is served by theHilton Head Airport which is owned by Beaufort County.American Airlines,Delta Air Lines, andUnited Airlines serve the airport. In the first half of 2019, the airport saw a 225% increase in passengers arriving and departing, when compared with the same time period one year prior. This was attributed to new air service and added seat capacity, made possible by the airport's 2018 runway expansion.[82]
Hilton Head Island Fire & Rescue began operations July 1, 1993, as a consolidation of the former Sea Pines Forest Beach Fire Department, the Hilton Head Island Fire District, and the Hilton Head Island Rescue Squad.[83] There are seven fire stations and one fire warehouse on Hilton Head Island.[84]
Police services are contracted through Beaufort County Sheriff's Office.[76] The island is equipped with an enhanced9-1-1 system.[83]
^Chapman, Chapman (May–June 1997). Olejniczak, Julian M. (ed.)."Obituary, Charles Wythe Gleaves Rich".Assembly. West Point, NY: Association of Graduates of the United States Military Academy. p. 144 – viaGoogle Books.