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Duster (clothing)

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Light, loose-fitting long coat
For the women's dress known as "duster", seehouse dress.
Duster used by one of theYounger Brothers in theNorthfield bank raid, 1876.

Aduster is a light, loose-fitting, longcoat.

History

[edit]
Early 1860s duster

The original dusters were full-length, light-coloredcanvas orlinen coats worn byhorsemen in the United States to protect their clothing from trail dust. These dusters were typically slit up the back to hip level for ease of wear on horseback.

Dusters intended for riding may have features such as a buttonable rear slit and leg straps to hold the flaps in place.

For better protection against rain, dusters were made fromoilcloth and later fromwaxed cotton.

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, both men and women would wear dusters to protect their clothes when riding in openmotorcars on thedirt roads of the day.[1]

Today: Revival through film and television

[edit]
Old Westreenactor wearing a duster

Western horsemen's dusters figured little inWestern films untilSergio Leone re-introduced them in his moviesThe Good, the Bad, and the Ugly (1966) andOnce Upon a Time in the West (1968). According toproduction designerCarlo Simi, Leone was fond of dusters. The two of them went to look for men's wear at the Western Costume shop in California, which was a very largewarehouse on theWarner Brothers lot and were dispensing most costumes worn in Westerns filmed in the US. There, they happened upon some dustcoats for riding horse, which had already been shown in John Ford'sThe Man Who Shot Liberty Valance. The coats were white but the Leone team changed them to chocolate brown.[2]

InOnce Upon a Time in the West, the character of Harmonica, portrayed byCharles Bronson, is looking at the dusters worn by the men of Cheyenne (Jason Robards), who asks him if he's "interested in men's fashion." Harmonica responds, "I saw three of these dusters a short time ago; they were waitin’ for a train. Inside the dusters there were three men...inside the men there were three bullets."[3]

As Leone's westerns were "dramatically stylish," they also influenced with their costumes and choice of shots the world offashion.[4]Once Upon a Time was a massive hit in France, ranking 7th in the most attended films of all time. The film caused a fashion trend for duster coats in the French capital of such proportions that department stores, such asAu Printemps, affixed signs onescalators warning customers to keep their "maxis," as they were called, clear from the edges of the moving steps in order to prevent jamming and injuries.[5]

In the film genre ofheroic bloodshed ofHong Kong films, the protagonists are often seen wearing dusters. InKirk Wong's 1988 gangster filmGunmen, set in 1930sShanghai, the protagonist (Tony Leung) wears a flowing Chinese robe similar to Leone's dusters.[6] DirectorJohn Woo's 1986A Better Tomorrow, featuredChow Yun Fat's character, nicknamed Brother Mark, wearing a duster. Following the film's release, many teenagers in Hong Kong came to wear dusters in emulation of Chow's character. IncolloquialCantonese,trench coats are calledMark Gor Lau (literally, "Brother Mark's coat").

The fictional anti-heroOmar Little wears dusters both as outerwear and as a silk sleepwear coverup[7] in theHBO series,The Wire.[8][9]

TheTenth Doctor played byDavid Tennant wore a cinnamon brown duster coat onDoctor Who. Van Pelt, the main antagonist inJumanji: Welcome to the Jungle, wore a dark brown duster coat.Harry Dresden from Jim Butcher'sDresden Files wears a duster, as well as other cowboy-like attire. In the television comedy series "It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia", a black leather duster is featured in several episodes that is prized by several main characters, who often argue over who looks better wearing it.

In modern times, leather dusters are worn bymotorcyclists to preventroad rash.[10]

See also

[edit]
Wikimedia Commons has media related todusters (coats).

References

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  1. ^Picken, Mary Brooks (1957).The Fashion Dictionary (1973 ed.). Funk and Wagnalls.ISBN 0-308-10052-2.{{cite book}}:ISBN / Date incompatibility (help)
  2. ^Bell, Bob Boze (30 September 2016)."Duster Mania".True West magazine. Retrieved2 November 2023.
  3. ^"Once Upon a Time in the West: Charles Bronson as Harmonica".BAMF Style. 28 May 2023. Retrieved2 November 2023.
  4. ^Battista, Anna (21 May 2009)."Women and the West: Viva Sergio Leone".irenebrination. Retrieved2 November 2023.
  5. ^Whitfield, Mark (12 October 2018)."Once Upon a Time in the West".Mark-Whitfield.com. Retrieved2 November 2023.
  6. ^Kehr, Dave (3 May 1991)."A Salute to Hong Kong's Daring Cinema".Chicago Tribune. Retrieved2 November 2023.
  7. ^"Omar Little is the gay stick-up man who robs drug dealers for a living inThe Wire".The Guardian. July 19, 2008.
  8. ^"The Wire Cast and Crew: Omar Little, played by Michael K. Williams".HBO.
  9. ^Honig, Peter (July 31, 2012)."Omar in the Dell".The Wire Blog.
  10. ^A photograph showing the road rash inflicted to a leather motorcycle jacket and elbow-armor pad that saved the arm of a biker who crashed at 60 mph

Further reading

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