 | |
| Alternative names | Plum pudding, pud |
|---|---|
| Type | Puddingcake |
| Place of origin | England |
| Serving temperature | Warm or cold |
| Main ingredients | Breadcrumbs,dried fruit,sugar,treacle,suet, spices |
Christmas pudding is sweet, boiled or steamedpudding traditionally served as part ofChristmas dinner inBritain and other countries to which the tradition has been exported. It has its origins inmedieval England, with early recipes making use of dried fruit, suet, breadcrumbs, flour, eggs and spice, along with liquid such as milk or fortified wine. Later, recipes became more elaborate. In 1845, cookery writerEliza Acton wrote the first recipe for a dish called "Christmas pudding".
The dish is sometimes known asplum pudding[1][2] (though this can also refer to other kinds of boiled pudding involving dried fruit). The word "plum" was used then for what has been called a "raisin" since the 18th century,[3] and the pudding does not containplums in the modern sense of the word.
Some households have their own recipes for Christmas pudding, which may be handed through families for generations. Essentially the recipe brings together what traditionally were expensive or luxurious ingredients — notably the sweet spices that are so important in developing its distinctive rich aroma, and usually made withsuet. The pudding is very dark, almost black in appearance due to the dark sugars and blacktreacle in most recipes, and its long cooking time. The mixture can be moistened with the juice of citrus fruits,brandy and other alcohol (some recipes call for darkbeers such asmild,stout orporter).
Prior to the 19th century, the English Christmas pudding was boiled in apudding cloth, and often represented as round.[1] TheVictorian era fashion involved putting the mixture into a basin and thensteaming it, followed by unwrapping the pudding, placing it on a platter, and decorating the top with a sprig ofholly.[1]
Initial cooking usually involves steaming for many hours. Most pre-twentieth century recipes assume that the pudding will then be served immediately, but in the second half of the twentieth century, it became more usual to reheat puddings on the day of serving, and recipes changed slightly to allow for maturing.[4] To serve, the pudding is reheated by steaming once more, and may be dressed with warm brandy which is set alight.[5] It can be eaten withhard sauce (usually brandy butter or rumbutter),cream, lemon cream,ice cream,custard, or sweetenedbéchamel, and is sometimes sprinkled withcaster sugar.
There is a popular myth that plum pudding's association with Christmas goes back to a custom inmedieval England that the "pudding should be made on the 25th Sunday afterTrinity, that it be prepared with 13 ingredients to represent Christ and the 12 apostles, and that every family member stir it in turn from east to west to honour theMagi and their journey in that direction".[1][6] However, recipes for plum puddings appear mainly, if not entirely, in the 17th century and later. One of the earliest plum pudding recipes is given byMary Kettilby in her 1714 bookA Collection of above Three Hundred Receipts in Cookery, Physick and Surgery.[7] There is a popular and wholly unsubstantiated myth[citation needed] that in 1714,George I of Great Britain (sometimes known as the Pudding King)[1] requested that plum pudding be served as part of his royal feast in his first Christmas in England.[1]
Christmas pudding's possible ancestors include savoury puddings such as those inHarley MS 279, croustades,[8]malaches whyte,[9] creme boiled (a kind of stirred custard), andsippets. Various ingredients and methods of these older recipes appear in early plum puddings. An early example of abag pudding (without fruit) is "fraunche mele" in the Liber Cure Cocorum[10] Pudding "had the great merit" of not needing to be cooked in an oven, something "most lower class households did not have".[11] Pudding predecessors often contained meat, as well as sweet ingredients, and prior to being steamed in a cloth the ingredients may have been stuffed into the gut or stomach of an animal, likehaggis or sausages.[12]
As techniques for meat preserving improved in the 18th century, the savoury element of both the mince pie and the plum pottage diminished as the sweet content increased. People began adding dried fruit and sugar. The mince pie kept its name, though the pottage was increasingly referred to asplum pudding. As plum pudding, it became widespread as a feast dish, not necessarily associated with Christmas, and usually served with beef. It makes numerous appearances in 18th century satire as a symbol of Britishness, including theGilray cartoon,The Plumb-pudding in danger.
It was not until the 1830s that a boiled cake of flour, fruits, suet, sugar and spices, all topped with holly, made a definite appearance, becoming more and more associated with Christmas. In her bestselling 1845 bookModern Cookery for Private Families,[13] theEast Sussex cookEliza Acton was the first to refer to it as "Christmas Pudding".
The custom of eating Christmas pudding was carried to many parts of the world by British colonists.[citation needed] It is a common dish inAustralia,[14]New Zealand,[15][16]Canada, andSouth Africa.[citation needed] Throughout the colonial period, the pudding was a symbol of unity throughout theBritish Empire, which the message was widely promoted through the media.[17]
In 1927, theEmpire Marketing Board (EMB) wrote a letter to theMaster of the Royal Household, requesting a copy of the recipe used to make the Christmas pudding for theroyal family. The King and Queen grantedLeo Amery, the head of the EMB, permission to use the recipe in a publication in the following November. The royal chef, Henry Cédard, provided it. In order to distribute the recipe, the EMB had to overcome two challenges: size and ingredients. First, the original recipe was measured to serve 40 people, including the entire royal family and their guests. The EMB was challenged to rework the recipe to serve only 8 people. Second, the ingredients used to make the pudding had to be changed to reflect the ideals of the Empire. The origins of each ingredient were carefully manipulated to represent some of the Empire's many colonies. Brandy from Cyprus and nutmeg from the West Indies, which had been inadvertently forgotten in previous recipes, made special appearances. However, there were a number of colonies that produced the same foodstuffs. The final recipe included Australian currants, South African stoned raisins, Canadian apples, Jamaican rum and English Beer, among other ingredients all sourced from somewhere in the Empire. After finalising the ingredients, the royal recipe was sent out to national newspapers and to popular women's magazines. Copies were also printed and handed out to the public for free. The recipe was a phenomenal success, as thousands of requests for the recipe flooded the EMB office.[18]
In 1931, an annual Christmas market for thePeople's Dispensary for Sick Animals was held at theRoyal Albert Hall on 24 and 25 November. A 10-ton Christmas pudding, the largest ever created up until that time, was featured. The recipe became known as the "Prince of Wales' Empire Christmas Pudding".The Times newspaper noted "The Lord Mayor of London has promised to give the pudding its first 'stir'. He will be followed by the High Commissioners of the Dominions, and afterwards the general public will have the chance of stirring it". The Prince of Wales (laterEdward VIII) was then a patron of the PDSA charity.[19] It was then divided up into 11,208 smaller puddings, which were distributed amongst the poor throughout the country. Manchester and Salford, for example, received 512 each.[20]
In America, the tradition of the Christmas pudding had already arrived in pre-independence days.[12] A book entitledThe Williamsburg Art of Cookery[21] byHelen Bullock was published in the U.S. as early as 1742. Among the ingredients she includes a pound of each of a variety of dried fruits and sugar, plus half a pound each of candied peel (citron, orange and lemon). She also adds one pint of brandy and 12 eggs.
Jane Cunningham Croly published a 19th-century recipe for plum pudding contributed toJennie June's American Cookery Book by the American poet sistersAlice Cary andPhoebe Cary. It was made asbread pudding, by soaking stale bread in milk then addingsuet, candiedcitron, nutmeg, eggs, raisins and brandy. It was a moulded dessert, cooked in boiling water for several hours, and served with a sweet wine sauce.[22]
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It was in the late Victorian era that 'Stir up Sunday' (the fifth Sunday before Christmas) began to be associated with the making of Christmas pudding. Thecollect this Sunday in theChurch of England'sBook of Common Prayer begins with the words "Stir up, we beseech thee, O Lord, the wills of thy faithful people; that they, plenteously bringing forth the fruit of good works...". This led to the custom of preparing Christmas puddings on that day which became known asStir-up Sunday, associated with the stirring of theChristmas pudding.[23]
Initially probably a schoolchild joke, latterly the day became known as "Stir-up Sunday".[24]
It was common practice to include smallsilver coins in the pudding mixture, which could be kept by the person whose serving included them.[1] The usual choice was a silverthreepence or asixpence. The coin was believed to bring wealth in the coming year, and came from an earlier tradition of putting tokens in a cake, which had died out by the twentieth century (seeTwelfth Cake).
Other tokens are also known to have been included, such as a tiny wishbone (to bring good luck), a silver thimble (for thrift) or an anchor (to symbolise safe harbour).[1]
Once turned out of its basin, decorated with holly, doused in brandy (or occasionally rum), andflamed (or "fired"), the pudding is traditionally brought to the table ceremoniously, and greeted with a round of applause. In 1843,Charles Dickens describes the scene inA Christmas Carol:
Mrs. Cratchit left the room alone – too nervous to bear witnesses – to take the pudding up and bring it in... Hallo! A great deal of steam! The pudding was out of the copper. A smell like a washing-day! That was the cloth. A smell like an eating-house and a pastrycook's next door to each other, with a laundress's next door to that! That was the pudding! In half a minute Mrs. Cratchit entered – flushed, but smiling proudly – with the pudding, like a speckled cannon-ball, so hard and firm, blazing in half of half-a-quartern of ignited brandy, and bedight with Christmas holly stuck into the top.[25]
