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Catalan cuisine

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Mediterranean style of cuisine from Catalonia

Catalan /Valenciancultural domain
Pa amb tomàquet (bread and tomato with olive oil), considered the most iconic Catalan dish
Location of Catalonia (dark green) in Spain andEurope. Most of its territory (except the Val d'Aran) is part of theMediterranean Basin, and its cuisine mainly belongs to the culinary tradition of this area.

Catalan cuisine is the cooking traditions and practices fromCatalonia. It may also refer to the shared cuisine ofNorthern Catalonia andAndorra, the second of which has a similar cuisine to that of the neighbouringAlt Urgell andCerdanyacomarques and which is often referred to as "Catalan mountain cuisine".[1] It is considered a part of westernMediterranean cuisine.[2]

History

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There are severalCatalan language cookbooks from theMiddle Ages that are known to modern scholars. TheLlibre del Coch (1520) was one of the most influential cookbooks ofRenaissance Spain.[3] It includes severalsauce recipes made with ingredients such as ginger,mace powder (flor de macis), cinnamon,saffron, cloves (clauells de girofle), wine and honey.[4][5]Salsa de pagó took its name from thepeacock (Catalan:el paó) that it was intended to be served with, but could accompany any type of poultry, and was part of the medievalChristmas meal.[6]Salsa mirraust (ormirausto alla catalana as it's called in theCuoco Napoletano) was half-roasted (mi-raust) poultry that was finished in asalsa thickened with egg yolks, toasted almonds and breadcrumbs. In the version of the recipe from the 14th-centuryLlibre de Sent Soví [ast], the sauce is thickened with mashed poultry liver instead of egg yolks.[7]

Hippocras (pimentes de clareya) was spiced wine made with cinnamon, cloves, ginger, pepper, honey and wine pressed through amanega, apastry bag shaped cloth that was originally designed byHippocrates to filter water.[8]

The 17th century manuscriptEl llibre de la Cuina de Scala-Dei, written at theCartoixa d'Escaladei, contains austere recipes such as of porridges of cereals that go back toRoman times.[9]

Basic ingredients

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Catalan cuisine relies heavily oningredients popular along theMediterranean coast, including freshvegetables (especiallytomato,garlic,eggplant (aubergine),capsicum, andartichoke), wheat products (bread,pasta),Arbequinaolive oils,wines, legumes (beans,chickpeas),mushrooms (particularly wild mushrooms), nuts (pine nuts, hazelnuts and almonds), all sorts ofpork preparations (sausage fromVic,ham), sheep and goats'cheese,poultry,lamb, many types offish likesardine,anchovy,tuna, andcod[10] and other seafood likeprawns,squid,sea snails andsea urchins.

Traditional Catalan cuisine is quite diverse, ranging from pork-intensive dishes cooked in the inland part of the region (Catalonia is one of the mainproducers of swine products in Spain) to fish-based recipes along the coast.[11] These meat and seafood elements are frequently fused together in the Catalan version ofsurf and turf, known asmar i muntanya. Examples include chicken with lobster (pollastre amb llagosta), chicken with crayfish (pollastre amb escarmalans), rice with meat and seafood (arròs mar i muntanya) and cuttlefish with meatballs (sipia amb mandonguilles).

The cuisine includes many preparations that mix sweet and savoury and stews with sauces based uponbotifarra (porksausage) and the characteristicpicada (groundalmonds,hazelnuts,pine nuts, etc. sometimes withgarlic,herbs,biscuits).[10]

Savoury dishes

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Coques
Cured sausage(Llonganissa) from Vic

Sauces and condiments

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Calçots withRomesco sauce for dipping
  • Allioli, a thick sauce made of garlic and olive oil, used with grilled meats or vegetables, and some dishes. Allioli means garlic (all) and (i) oil (oli) in Catalan.
  • Samfaina, also calledtomacat orpebrots amb tomàquet. It is a variety ofOccitanratatouille orSpanishpisto.
  • Romesco orSalvitxada (made from almonds, hazelnuts, garlic, bread, vinegar, tomatoes, olive oil and dried red peppers) fromValls.
  • Xató, a variety ofSalvitxada without tomatoes.

Sweets and desserts

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Acrema catalana
Axuixo
A tray ofpanellets, as they are typically served
  • Crema catalana, the famous yellow cream made withegg yolk,milk andsugar, whose denseness is between acrème pâtissière ornatillas and aflan; used to stuff a great amount of pastries, or to make simple desserts with, for example, fruit, and that is also eaten in a small flat pottery plate, after covering the cream with white crystal sugar and burning it, in order to create a layer of solid sugar that has to be broken with a small spoon before reaching the cream.
  • Mató de Pedralbes ormató de monja is another kind of Catalan cream, similar tocrema catalana, originating inBarcelona.
  • Menjablanc ormenjar blanc, typical ofReus but eaten all over Catalonia, is a kind of white cream made withalmonds, from which a sort of milk is first obtained, followed by a cream to be eaten with a small spoon.
  • Peres de Lleida [ca] is a typical dessert originated inLleida composed of peeled pears cooked in a kind of lightercrema catalana and served cold, covered by meringue and decorated with cherries.
  • Xuixos are fried pastries created inGirona and stuffed withcrema catalana.
  • Mel i mató, a dessert ofmató cheese withhoney.
  • Pastissets, orcasquetes,de cabell d'àngel are sweet half-circle shaped pastries stuffed withcabell d'àngel (a sort of marrow jam) and covered with white crystal sugar which are eaten at coffee time.
  • Carquinyolis are little crunchy almond biscuits often eaten at coffee time.
  • Catànies are Catalan marcona almonds covered with white chocolate and powdered black chocolate to be eaten with coffee.
  • pets de monja [es] are small nipple-shaped and -sized biscuits also eaten at coffee time. At first they were calledpits de monja (nuns' nipples) but time has changed their name to the currentpets de monja (nuns' farts).
  • Sweetcoques were at first eaten only on holidays. Catalans have at least one type of traditionalcoca for each holiday and feast day of the year.
  • Orelletes [es] are thin fried pastries covered with sugar and eaten duringCarnival. They also exist in nearby regions in Spain or France.
  • Sweetbunyols asbunyols de vent,bunyols stuffed withcrema catalana orbunyols de l'Empordà are typically done and eaten on Wednesdays and Fridays during Lent.
  • Mona de Pasqua is a pastry richly covered with almonds, yolk jam, chocolate eggs (or, currently, large chocolate sculptures) and coloured decoration that the godfather and godmother give as a present every year to their godchildren on Easter (Pasqua). It is an ancient pre-Christian tradition which marked the passage from childhood to the adult world. At first, it has one egg for each year of the children's age, and continuing to add one egg each year until twelve, as at thirteen they are no longer considered children.
  • Panellets are small pastries made of pine nuts, almonds and sugar with different shapes and flavors, eaten during laCastanyada, which Catalans celebrate on 1 November instead ofHalloween. Their origin is Jewish, before the Middle Ages, but the tradition ofcastanyada is much older.
  • Tortell, also calledtorta orroscó in Northern and Southern dialects. It is round, it can be made of puff pastry or a mixture similar tolionesas andpalos, and stuffed withtrufa (a mixture of cacao, chocolate and cream) or withcrema catalana. It is typically bought and eaten after Sunday's lunch, in family or with friends. A common alternative is called thebraç de gitano (Gypsy's arm), that in Catalonia is always covered with yolk jam.
  • A specifictortell is in fact a specialcoca that Catalans only eat on the Day of the Three Kings (6 January) which is calledtortell de reis (orgaleta de reis in Northern Catalonia) a typical ring-shaped pastry stuffed withmarzipan or Catalan cream (crema catalana) and topped with glazed fruit and nuts.
  • Torró, a Christmas sweet made with almonds withDAO ofAgramunt (Lleida).
  • Neules are also eaten on Christmas in Catalonia. They are dipped incava (Catalan champagne). They have the same origin aswaffles and BelgianGoffres.

Wines

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Cava wine aging
Main articles:Catalan wine andSpanish wine regions

There are 11 Catalan wine-growing regions qualified by the INCAVI (The Catalan Institute of Wine):Priorat,Penedès,Catalunya,Costers del Segre,Conca de Barberà,Montsant,Alella,Tarragona,Empordà, Pla del Bages andTerra Alta.

The sparkling winecava, made mainly in thePenedès andAnoia regions, is the Catalan equivalent tochampagne. It is widely exported.

"Moscatell" (Empordà), is a sweet Catalan wine which have similar varieties in other countries such asFrance,Italy,Portugal,Albania,Slovenia,Greece,Romania andTurkey, as well as other regions ofSpain. However, Catalanmoscatell is thicker than French muscat and is not drunk before the meal (aperitiu) but after it, either with or after dessert.

Alternative views

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Some Catalan authors, such asJosep Pla,[15]Jaume Fàbrega[16] or Eliana Thibaut i Comalada,[17] and others likeColman Andrews,[18] have suggested that, besides Catalonia proper, this cuisine takes in the Balearic and Valencian cuisines,[19] but this opinion is challenged as politicised, and is not widespread, nor is it supported by either theBalearic or theValencian government,[20][21] while the Catalan government itself provides divergent points of view.[22][23] In any case, mutual ties do exist between Catalan gastronomy and other western Mediterranean gastronomies, such asBalearic cuisine,Valencian cuisine,Southern French cuisine,Aragonese cuisine or Murcian cuisine.

Chefs and restaurants

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Ferran Adrià was the headchef ofEl Bulli

Catalan cooks andchefs are widely renowned and critically acclaimed all over the world. Three ofThe World's 50 Best Restaurants are in Catalonia,[24] and four restaurants have threeMichelin stars. The Michelin Guide Spain and Portugal 2022 edition awarded 49 restaurants across Catalonia with a total of 64 Michelin stars.[25] Barcelona has 28 Michelin stars across 18 restaurants[26] includingCinc Sentits[27] and has been chosen as the best gastronomical city by theAmerican TV networkMSNBC in 2009, topping the list of the ten best gastronomical cities in the world.InProvince of Girona are two of the best restaurants of the world,El Celler de Can Roca, the best of the world in 2014 and 2015, andelBulli, inRoses, the best one in 2002, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009 and 2nd in 2010, before its closure in 2011.

See also

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Notes

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  1. ^Sen, Miquel, et al, 2005,La Cuina comarca a comarca: Andorra-Cerdanya, Ciro DL. Barcelona.
  2. ^[1]The New York Times, Spain: A Catalan Ole
  3. ^Scholliers, Peter (2012).Writing Food History: A Global Perspective.ISBN 9780857852175.
  4. ^Lybre de doctrina Pera ben Servir: de Tallar: y del Art de Coch
  5. ^Alimentació i societat a la Catalunya medieval.CSIC Press. 1998.ISBN 9788400069209.
  6. ^"Pollastre o capó rostit amb salsa de pagó".Fundació Institut Català de la Cuina.
  7. ^Two Ways of Looking at Maestro MartinoGastronomica Spring 2007 Vol. 7 Issue 2
  8. ^Pedralbes. Universidad de Barcelona.
  9. ^Davidson, Alan (1 January 1981).National & Regional Styles of Cookery: Proceedings : Oxford Symposium 1981. Oxford Symposium. p. 178.ISBN 978-0-907325-07-9. Retrieved18 February 2024.
  10. ^abPujol 2009.
  11. ^Pujol, Anton (2009). "Cosmopolitan Taste".Food, Culture & Society.12 (4):437–455.doi:10.2752/175174409X456737.S2CID 153752556.
  12. ^Sonso - Departament d'Agricultura, Alimentació i Acció Rural
  13. ^Mas Ferrà, Xavier i Canyelles Ferrà, Xavier:Peixos de les Illes Balears. Editorial Moll,Palma de Mallorca, 2000. Manuals d'introducció a la naturalesa, 13.ISBN 84-273-6013-4. Planes 213-214.
  14. ^Froese, Rainer;Pauly, Daniel (eds.)."Gymnammodytes cicerelus".FishBase. February 2018 version.
  15. ^PLA, Josep, 1970, 'El Que hem menjat', Barcelona (Catalonia)) (this edition 1997 Premsa catalana); photographs by F. Català Roca were added for the edition of 1981 by Edicions Destino, Barcelona.
  16. ^Gastroteca.cat Interview with Jaume Fàbrega
  17. ^THIBAUT I COMALADA, Eliana, 2001, 'La Cuina dels Països Catalans, reflex d'una societat', Editorial Pòrtic, S.A.ISBN 978-84-7306-716-4
  18. ^ANDREWS, Colman,Catalan cuisine pp. 3-4: "It is, to put it another way, the cooking of the region of Catalonia in northeastern Spain - and, by extension, of the historically and linguistically relatedpaïsos catalans or Catalan lands.."
  19. ^gastronomy of the Catalan-speaking Countries: Jaume Fàbrega:"Belonging to the nation of Catalans Valencians and Balearics is not just a question of a common language: it is also a way of expressing that culture at table, of a culinary culture."Archived 11 October 2008 at theWayback Machine
  20. ^gastronomy from the Valencian CommunityArchived 9 May 2008 at theWayback Machine
  21. ^Gastronomy of the Valencian CommunityArchived 9 May 2008 at theWayback Machine
  22. ^Generalitat de CatalunyaArchived 14 May 2013 at theWayback Machine
  23. ^CulturcatArchived 6 January 2014 at theWayback Machine
  24. ^"Spain's El Bulli named best restaurant in world".The Economic Times. India. 21 April 2009. Archived fromthe original on 8 July 2012. Retrieved30 April 2012.
  25. ^Jordan, Guifré."Three Catalan restaurants maintain their three Michelin stars".www.catalannews.com. Retrieved25 December 2021.
  26. ^Doherty, Lorcan."Interactive map: All Michelin-starred restaurants in Catalonia".www.catalannews.com. Retrieved25 December 2021.
  27. ^"ViaMichelin Barcelona Restaurants: online restaurant guide".Michelin Guide.Michelin. Retrieved12 February 2012.

References

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Further reading

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  • Pla, Josep (1982)Aigua de mar, 3rd ed. Barcelona: Edicions Destino
  • Pla, Josep (1984)Alguns grans cuiners de l'Empordà. Barcelona: Llibres a Mà
  • Pla, Josep (1981)De l'Empordanet a Barcelona; 2nd ed. Barcelona: Edicions Destino (1st ed. 1942)

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