The paintingVăn quan vinh quy đồ (文官榮歸圖) dated 18th century shows a woman wearing nón Ba tầm
Anón Ba tầm is a traditional Vietnamese flat palm hat.[1][2][3] It should be distinguished from other traditional Vietnamese headwear, such as the conicalnón lá and the coiled turban (khăn vấn). Thenón ba tầm is traditionally worn byVietnamese women as an accessory to elegant garments, in contrast to the more practical clothing associated with farm work.
The hats traditionally worn byshamans featured silver ornaments hanging from silk strings attached around the brim.[4]
The woman on the left wears a Thúng hat and the woman on the right wears a Ba tầm hatA hunter wearing aNgoan xác lạp hat andÁo tơi
According to documents from the French at the end of the nineteenth century,ba tầm was translated into French asLe chapeau de trois tầm (literally "the hat of threetầm").[5][6] Atầm (尋) was an ancient unit of measurement used in China, Korea, Japan, and Vietnam, equivalent to an arm span. According toVũ Trung Tùy Bút, theba tầm hat is a combination of the styles of thedậu,mền giải, andviên cơ hats. The hat has been mentioned in literature since the 18th century, but its origin may be much older.
Nón mền giải[7] (also referred to asNgoan Xác lạp 黿殼笠 andTam Giang lạp 三江笠) was worn by the elderly during theRevival Lê dynasty but eventually fell out of fashion.
Nón vỏ bứa (Also referred to asToan Bì lạp, 酸皮笠) was worn by the poor. It is a simplified version of thenón mền giải, made smaller in size. During theNguyễn dynasty, it was referred to in literature asThủy Thủ Lạp (水手笠).[a]
Nón dậu (Cổ châu lạp, 古洲笠) was worn by elderly relatives of mandarins, middle-class men and women, scholars, and commoners in the capital. The hat had a pointed top, a flat rim, and a few beams ofthao thread, a type of silk.
Viên cơ lạp (圓箕笠) originated in Hoan Châu province (modern-dayNghệ An province). During theRevival Lê dynasty, it was worn by soldiers during the Arrogant Soldiers Rebellion (Loạn Kiêu Binh). This hat featured a long design resembling a winnowing basket (nia). During theNguyễn dynasty, it was redesigned as a smaller hat, similar to thenón thúng but with a square bevel. A smaller version of thenón Ba tầm, called anónNghệ (referred to in French asLe chapeau de Nghệ-an), was typically worn by women.
Nón thúng (Chapeau en forme de panier) was worn by both men and women. It featured a broader, bronze-tapered design compared to thenón Nghệ.[7]
Ba tầm hats are covered with palm leaves orgồi leaves and are shaped like a parasol or mushroom. They have a flat top, with a cone diameter of about 70–80 cm and a brim that is 10–12 cm high or more. The inside of the hat is reinforced with a funnel-shaped rim called akhua orkhùa (摳) to help secure it on the user's head.[8] Additionally, colorfulthao threads are often tied to the brim of the hat as a decorative charm.
The termnón quai thao is often used to refer to anón ba tầm. This association stems from an improved design by writer Kim Lân and his son, making the hat more compact and suitable for artistic performances. This modified version was later adopted by femaleQuan họ singers, which contributed to its increased popularity.[9]
^Kirsten W. Endres, Andrea Lauser –Engaging the Spirit World: Popular Beliefs and Practices in Modern Vietnam 2012 "TheTen Girls were each allocated one two-storied house, three sets of clothes, one box of adornments, one flat palm hat (nón quai thao) and one traveling case in which to store everything."
^Maurice M. Durand –Technique et panthéon des médiums viêtnamiens (Đông) 1959 "Chapeau de femme avec des attaches en argent (chiến) où sont suspendus des cordons de soie, giày thao. C'est le nón quai thao."
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