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In presenting our friends and the public withthe thirteenth edition of our "Home Comforts," wehave the pleasure to remark that so greatly has thebook been appreciated, that the large number ofFIVE HUNDRED THOUSAND copies has been called for.The value of the Jubilee Edition was enhanced bysome new recipes; these are repeated in the presentedition, to which, also, some valuable additions havebeen made. Since the introduction of our Gelatineby the late Mr. G. Nelson, more than fifty years ago,we have considerably enlarged our list of specialities,and we have gratefully to acknowledge the publicfavour accorded to us.

Among those of our preparations which have metwith so much appreciation and success, we would citethe following:

Nelson's Bottled Jellies.—It is sometimes sodifficult, if not impossible, to have a first-class jellymade in private kitchens, that we venture to thinkourBottled Jellies will be highly appreciated byall housekeepers. It is not too much to say that aready-made jelly of the highest quality, and of the[8]best and purest materials, requiring only the additionof hot water, is now, for the first time, supplied.Careful experiments, extending over a long periodof time, have been required to bring this excellentand very useful preparation to its present state ofperfection, and it is confidently asserted that nohome-made jelly can surpass it in purity, brilliancy,or delicacy of flavour. All that is necessary to preparethe jelly for the table is to dissolve it by placing thebottle in hot water, and then to add the given quantityof water to bring it to a proper consistency. It isallowed to stand until on the point of setting, and isthen put into a mould.

Nelson's Calf's Foot, Lemon, Port, Sherry,Orange, and Cherry Jellies are now to be hadof all first-class grocers, and are put up in bottleseach containing sufficient of the concentrated preparationto make a quart, pint, or half-pint.

Nelson's Tablet Jellies are recommended forgeneral use, are guaranteed of the purest and bestmaterials, and are flavoured with the finest fruitessences. The Tablet Jellies are of so moderatea price as to be within the reach of all classes,and can be used as an every-day addition to thefamily bill of fare. They are not, however, intendedas a substitute for high-class jellies, whetherbottled or home-made.

The Tablet Jellies used as directed in the recipesmake, in a few minutes, creams of a most delicate[9]kind, remarkable for smoothness of texture and fineflavour.

Nelson's Port, Sherry, and Orange WineTablet Jellies have now been added to the list.

Nelson's Lemon Sponge, supplied in tins, isa delicious novelty, and will be found to surpass anythat can be made at home.

Nelson's Citric Acid and Pure Essence ofLemon.—In order to save the trouble of puttingjelly through a strainer when required for invalids,we have introduced our Citric Acid and Essence ofLemon, and by their use a jelly clear enough for allordinary purposes is made in a few minutes.

Lemonade and other beverages can be quicklymade, and with less expense than by any othermethod, by using Nelson's Citric Acid and Essenceof Lemon, and for these recipes are given. Deliciousbeverages are also made with Nelson's Bottled Jellies,seepage 93.

Nelson's Pure Essence of Almonds andVanilla.—These Extracts, like the Essence of Lemon,will be found of superior strength and flavour, andspecially adapted for the recipes in this book.

Nelson's Gelatine Lozenges are not only adelicious sweetmeat, but most useful as voice lozenges,or in cases of sore or irritable throat. The flavour isvery delicate and refreshing. Dissolved in water theymake a useful beverage, and also a jelly suitable forchildren and invalids.

[10]Nelson's Jelly-Jubes will be found mostagreeable and nourishing sweetmeats, deliciouslyflavoured with fruit essences. They can be used ascough lozenges, will be found soothing for delicatethroats, are useful for travellers, and may be freelygiven to children.

Nelson's Licorice Lozenges are not only afavourite sweetmeat, but in cases of throat irritationand cough are found to be soothing and curative.

Nelson's Albumen is the white of eggs carefullydried and prepared, so that it will keep for an indefinitelength of time. It is useful for any purposeto which the white of egg is applied, and answerswell for clearing soup and jelly. When required foruse, the albumen is soaked in cold water and whiskedin the usual way.

Nelson's Extract of Meat.—The numeroustestimonials which have been received as to theexcellence of this preparation, as well as the greatand universal demand for it, have afforded the highestsatisfaction to us as the manufacturers, and haveenabled us to offer it with increased confidence to thepublic. It is invaluable, whether for making soupor gravy, or for strengthening or giving flavour tomany dishes; and it is not only superior to, but farcheaper than, any similar preparation now before thepublic.

Now that clear soup is so constantly required, and[11]a thing of every-day use, Nelson's Extract of Meatwill be found a great boon. With the addition of alittle vegetable flavouring, a packet of the Extract willmake a pint of soup as good and as fine as that produced,at much labour and expense, from fresh meat.With a judicious use of the liquor derived from boilingfowls, rabbits, and fresh meat, an endless variety ofsoup may be made, by the addition of Nelson'sExtract of Meat. Some recipes are given by whichfirst-class soups can be prepared in a short time, at avery small cost, and with but little trouble. It maybe as well to say that soaking for a few minutes incold water facilitates the solution of the Extract ofMeat.

Nelson's Soups are deserving of the attention ofevery housekeeper, for they combine all the elementsof good nourishment, have an excellent flavour, bothof meat and vegetables, are prepared by merelyboiling the contents of a packet for fifteen minutes,and are so cheap as to be within everybody's means.Penny packets of these soups, for charitable purposes,will be found most useful and nourishing.

Those who have to cater for a family know howoften a little soup will make up a dinner that wouldotherwise be insufficient; yet because of the timeand trouble required in the preparation, it is impossibleto have it. In a case like this, or when asupplementary dish is unexpectedly required, Nelson'sSoups are most useful. Although these Soups are allthat can be desired, made with water according to[12]the directions given with each packet, they can beutilised with great advantage for strengthening householdstock.

For instance, the liquor in which a leg of muttonhas been boiled, or of pork, if not too salt, can be atonce, by using a packet or two of Nelson's Soup,converted into a delicious and nourishing soup, andat a cost surprisingly small. Or the bones of any jointcan be made into stock, and, after all the fat has beenskimmed off, have a packet of Nelson's Soup added,in the same manner as in the directions.

Nelson's Beef Tea will be found of the highestvalue, supplying a cup of unequalled nourishment,combining all the constituents of fresh beef. Noother preparation now before the public contains thatmost important element, albumen, in a soluble form,as well as much of the fibrin of the meat. This BeefTea is also generally relished by invalids, and merelyrequires to be dissolved in boiling water.

New Zealand Mutton.—For information respectingthis meat, and the great advantage as well aseconomy of its use, seepage 119.

Nelson's Tinned Meats, known as the"Tomoana Brand," are prepared at the works ofNelson Bros., Limited, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand,from the finest cattle of the country. Messrs.Nelsonspecially recommend their "Pressed Mutton andGreen Peas," "Haricot Mutton," and "Pressed[13]Corned Mutton." The "Stewed Kidneys" will befound of a quality superior to any articles of the kindnow in the market, while the price places them withinthe reach of all classes of consumers.

Nelson's Gelatine having now been favourablyknown all over the world for more than half a century,it is unnecessary to do more than observe that ourefforts are constantly directed to supplying a perfectlypure article, always of the same strength and quality.When Russian isinglass was first introduced into thiscountry, the prejudices against its use on the part ofour great-grandmothers were violent and extreme;for those worthy ladies would not believe that someunfamiliar substance, of the origin of which they wereeither ignorant or doubtful, could form an efficientsubstitute for the well-known calves' feet and cow-heels,from which they had always been in the habitof making their jellies and blanc-manges. By degrees,however, the Gelatine made its way, and at lengthsuperseded the old system entirely; and its popularityis demonstrated by the fact that the works at Emscote,near Warwick, cover nearly five acres.

N.B.—It is necessary to call attention to the fact thatin all the following recipes in which Nelson's Gelatine andSpecialities are used, the quantities are calculated fortheir manufactures only, the quality and strength of whichmay be relied upon for uniformity.[14]

NELSON'S HOME COMFORTS.

SOUPS.

BEEF AND ONION SOUP.

A pint of very good soup can be made by followingthe directions which accompany each tin ofNelson's Beef and Onion Soup, viz. to soak thecontents in a pint of cold water for fifteen minutes,then place over the fire, stir, and boil for fifteenminutes. It is delicious when combined with a tinof Nelson's Extract of Meat, thus producing a quartof nutritious and appetising soup.

NELSON'S MULLIGATAWNY SOUP.

Soaked in cold water for a quarter of an hour, andthen boiled for fifteen minutes, Nelson's MulligatawnySoup is very appetising and delicious. It should beeaten with boiled rice; and for those who like thesoup even hotter than that in the above preparation,the accompanying rice may be curried. In eithercase the rice should be boiled so that each grainshould be separate and distinct from the rest.

BEEF, LENTIL, AND VEGETABLE SOUP.

Pour one quart of boiling water upon the contentsof a tin of Nelson's Soup of the above title, stirringbriskly. The water must be boiling. A little seasoningof salt and pepper may be added for accustomedpalates. This soup is perfectly delicious if preparedas follows: Cut two peeled onions into quarters, tiethem in a muslin bag, and let the soup boil for twentyminutes with them. Take out the bag before servingthe soup.

BEEF, PEA, AND VEGETABLE SOUP.

The directions printed on each packet of Nelson'sBeef, Pea, and Vegetable Soup produce a satisfactorysoup, but even this may be improved by the additionof the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meatand a handful of freshly-gathered peas. It is perhapsnot generally known that pea-pods, usually thrownaway as useless, impart a most delicious flavour tosoup if boiled fast for two or three hours in a largesaucepan, strained, and the liquor added to the soup,stock, or beef tea.

BEEF TEA AS A SOLID.

Soak the contents of a tin of Nelson's Beef Teain a gill of water for ten minutes. Add to this thethird of an ounce packet of Nelson's Gelatine, whichhas been soaked for two or three hours in half-a-pintof cold water. Put the mixture in a stewpan, and stiruntil it reaches boiling-point. Then put it into a[16]mould which has been rinsed with cold water. Whenthoroughly cold, this will turn out a most inviting andextremely nutritious dish.

CLEAR VERMICELLI SOUP.

Boil two minced onions in a quart of the liquor inwhich a leg of mutton has been boiled, skim well,and when the vegetables are tender strain them out.Pass the soup through a napkin, boil up, skimthoroughly, and when clear add the contents of atin of Nelson's Extract of Meat, stirring untildissolved.

Boil two ounces of vermicelli paste in a pint ofwater until tender. Most shapes take about tenminutes. Take care that the water boils when youthrow in the paste, and that it continues to do soduring all the time of cooking, as that will keep thepaste from sticking together. When done, drain itin a strainer, put it in the tureen, and pour the soupon to it.

SOUP JULIENNE.

Wash and scrape a large carrot, cut away all theyellow parts from the middle, and slice the red outsideof it an inch in length, and the eighth of an inchthick. Take an equal quantity of turnip and threesmall onions, cut in a similar manner. Put them ina stewpan with two ounces of butter and a pinch ofpowdered sugar; stir over the fire until a nice browncolour, then add a quart of water and a teaspoonfulof salt, and let all simmer together gently for two[17]hours. When done skim the fat off very carefully, andten minutes before serving add the contents of a tin ofNelson's Extract of Meat, and a cabbage-lettuce cutin shreds and blanched for a minute in boiling water;simmer for five minutes and the soup will be ready.Many cooks, to save time and trouble, use the preservedvegetables, which are to be had in greatperfection at all good Italian warehouses.

BROWN RABBIT SOUP CLEAR.

Fry a quarter of a pound of onions a light brown;mince a turnip and carrot and a little piece of celery;boil these until tender in three pints of the liquorin which a rabbit has been boiled, taking care toremove all scum as it rises; strain them out, andthen pass the soup through a napkin. The soupshould be clear, or nearly so, but if it is not, put itin a stewpan, boil and skim until bright; then throwin the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat,soaked for a few minutes; stir until dissolved; addpepper and salt to taste.

HARE SOUP.

Half roast a hare, and, having cut away the meat inlong slices from the backbone, put it aside to makeanentrée. Fry four onions; take a carrot, turnip,celery, a small quantity of thyme and parsley, half-a-dozenpeppercorns, a small blade of mace, somebacon-bones or a slice of lean ham, with the body ofthe hare cut up into small pieces; put all in twoquarts of water with a little salt. When you have[18]skimmed the pot, cover close and allow it to boilgently for three hours, then strain it; take off everyparticle of fat, and having allowed the soup to boilup, add the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract ofMeat, and thicken it with a dessertspoonful ofpotato-flour; stir in two lumps of sugar, a glass ofport wine, and season if necessary.

MULLIGATAWNY SOUP.

English cooks generally err in making bothmulligatawny and curries too hot. It is impossible togive the exact quantity of the powder, because it variesso much in strength, and the cook must therefore beguided by the quality of her material. Mulligatawnymay be made cheaply, and be delicious. The liquorin which meat or fowl has been boiled will make asuperior soup, and fish-liquor will answer well. Sliceand fry brown four onions, quarter, but do not peel,four sharp apples; boil them in three pints of stockuntil tender, then rub through a sieve to a pulp. Boilthis up in the soup, skimming well; add the contentsof a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat, and stir in twoounces of flour and the curry-powder, mixed smoothin half-a-pint of milk. Any little pieces of meat,fowl, game, or fish may be added as an improvementto the soup. Just before serving taste that the soupis well-flavoured; add a little lemon-juice or vinegar.

THIN MULLIGATAWNY SOUP.

To a quart of the liquor in which a fresh haddockhas been boiled, add half-a-pint of water in which[19]onions have been boiled. Stir into this, after it hasbeen skimmed, and whilst boiling, the contents of atin of Nelson's Extract of Meat, and a teaspoonful ofcurry-powder; let it boil up; add the juice of half alemon and serve.

BROWN ARTICHOKE SOUP.

Wash, peel, and cut into slices about half-an-inch thicktwo pounds of Jerusalem artichokes. Fry them in alittle butter until brown; fry also brown half-a-poundof sliced onions. Put these to boil in two quarts ofwater with two turnips, a carrot sliced, two teaspoonfulsof salt, and one of pepper. When the vegetablesare tender drain the liquor, set it aside to cool, andremove all fat. Pass the vegetables through a finesieve to a nice smoothpurée. Those who possess aKent's "triturating strainer" will be able to do thismuch more satisfactorily, both as regards time andresults, than by the old way of rubbing through asieve. Put the liquor on to boil, dissolve in it—accordingto the strength the soup is required tobe—the contents of one or two tins of Nelson'sExtract of Meat, then add the vegetablepurée, a lumpor two of sugar, and if required, salt and pepper. Letit boil up and serve.

TURTLE SOUP.

This soup is so often required for invalids, as wellas for the table, that an easy and comparativelyinexpensive method of preparing it cannot fail to beacceptable. Nelson's Beef Tea or Extract of Meatwill be used instead of fresh beef, and Bellis's Sun-dried[20]Turtle instead of live turtle. If convenientit is desirable to soak the dried turtle all night, but itcan be used without doing so. Put it on to boil inthe water in which it was soaked, in the proportion ofone quart with a teaspoonful of salt to a quarter of apound of the turtle. Add two or three onions peeledand quartered, a small bit of mace and sliced lemon-peel,and simmer gently for four or five hours, or untilthe turtle is tender enough to divide easily with aspoon. Stock of any kind may be used instead ofwater, and as the liquid boils away more should beadded, to keep the original quantity. Herbs for theproper flavouring of the Turtle Soup are supplied byBellis; these should be put in about an hour beforethe turtle is finished, and be tied in muslin. Whendone take out the turtle and divide it into neat littlepieces; strain the liquor in which it was cooked, andhaving boiled it up, stir in the contents of two tins ofNelson's Extract of Meat, previously soaked for a fewminutes. Mix smooth in a gill of cold water a teaspoonfulof French potato-flour and of Vienna flour,stir into the soup, and when it has thickened put inthe turtle meat; let it get hot through, add a wine-glassfulof sherry, a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice,and salt and pepper to taste, and serve at once. It isnecessary to have "Bellis's Sun-dried Turtle," importedby T. K. Bellis, Jeffrey's Square, St. Mary Axe, London(sold in boxes), for this soup, because it is warranted properlyprepared. An inferior article, got up by negroesfrom turtle found dead, is frequently sold at a low price;but it is unnecessary to say it is not good or wholesome.

MOCK TURTLE SOUP.

This, like real turtle soup, can be made of Nelson'sExtract of Meat and Bellis's Mock Turtle Meat. Boilthe contents of a tin of this meat in water or stock,salted and flavoured with vegetables and turtle herbs,until tender. Finish with Nelson's Extract of Meat,and as directed for turtle soup.

GRAVY.

For roast meat, merely dissolve, after a little soaking,a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat in a pint of boilingwater. For poultry or game, fry two onions a lightbrown, mince a little carrot and turnip, put in half ateaspoonful of herbs, tied in muslin, and boil untiltender, in a pint of water. Strain out the herbs, letthe liquor boil up, stir in the contents of a tin ofNelson's Extract of Meat, and if the gravy isrequired to be slightly thickened, add a smallteaspoonful of potato-flour mixed smooth in coldwater. For cutlets or other dishes requiring sharpsauce, make exactly as above, and just before servingadd a little of any good piquant sauce, or picklesminced finely.

GLAZE.

Soak in a small jar the contents of a tin ofNelson's Extract of Meat in rather less than a gillof cold water. Set the jar over the fire in a saucepanwith boiling water, and let the extract simmeruntil dissolved. This is useful for strengtheningsoups and gravies, and for glazing ham, tongues,and other things.

LITTLE DISHES OF FISH.

The recipes we are now giving are suitable fordinner, supper, or breakfast dishes, and will be foundespecially useful for the latter meal, as there is nothingmore desirable for breakfast than fish. We are constantlytold that it is not possible to have fresh fishfor breakfast, because it cannot be kept all night inthe home larder. But we must insist that there is nogreater difficulty in keeping fish than meat. Indeed,there is perhaps less difficulty, because fish can beleft lying in vinegar, if necessary, whereas in the caseof meat it cannot always be done.

We will suppose that it is necessary to use stricteconomy. It is as well to proceed on that supposition,because people can always be lavish in their expenditure,whereas it is not so easy to provide for thehousehold at once well and economically. In manyneighbourhoods fish is sold much cheaper late in theday than in the morning, and in this case the housekeeperwho can buy overnight for the use of the nextday has a great advantage. Suppose you get the tailof a cod weighing three pounds, as you frequently may,at a very small price in the evening, and use a part ofit stuffed and baked for supper, you can have a dishof cutlets of the remainder for breakfast which will bevery acceptable. We do not mean a dish of the coldremains, but of a portion of the fish kept uncooked,as it easily may be, as we have before said, by dippingit in vinegar. Or, you get mackerel. Nothing is betterthan this fish treated according to the recipe we give.[23]Even so delicate a fish as whiting may, by a littlemanagement with vinegar, be kept perfectly well fromone day to the other. Skinned whiting has verylittle flavour, and although when skilfully cooked inthe usual way it is useful by way of change, thenourishment is much impaired by the removal of theskin. The same remark applies to soles. By fryingfish unskinned you get a dish of a different characterto that of skinned fish, and one of which the appetitedoes not so soon tire.

FRIED SOLE.

Soles weighing from three-quarters of a pound to apound are the most suitable size for frying whole. Ifit is desired to have the fish juicy and with their fullflavour, do not have them skinned. The black sideof the soles will not of course look so well, or be socrisp, as the white side, but this is of little consequencecompared to the nourishment sacrificed in removingthe skin. Have the soles scraped, wipe them, put atablespoonful of vinegar in a dish, pass the fish throughit, and let them lie an hour or more, if necessary allnight, as the flavour is thus improved. Run a knifealong the backbone, which prevents it looking redwhen cut. When ready to crumb the fish, lay themin a cloth and thoroughly dry them. Beat up the yolkof an egg with a very little of the white, which will besufficient to egg a pair of soles; pass the fish throughthe egg on both sides, hold it up to drain; have readyon a plate a quarter of a pound of very fine drycrumbs, mixed with two ounces of flour, a teaspoonfulof salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. Draw the[24]fish over the crumbs, first on one side, then on theother, and lay it gently on a dish, black side downwards,whilst you prepare another. Some peoplesucceed better in crumbing fish by sifting the crumbson to it through a very fine strainer after it is egged.When the fish are ready put them, black side downwards,into the frying-pan with plenty of fat, hotenough to brown a piece of bread instantaneously,move the pan about gently, and when the soles havebeen fried four minutes, put a strong cooking-fork intothem near the head, turn the white side downwards,and fry three minutes longer. Seven minutes will besufficient to fry a sole weighing three-quarters of apound, and a pair of this weight is sufficient for aparty of six persons. When the sole is done put thefork into the fish close to the head, hold it up and letall the fat drain away, lay it on a sheet of cap paper,and cover over with another sheet. Being thus quitefreed from grease, of a rich golden brown, crisp, andwith an even surface, lay the fish on the dish forserving, which should have on it either a fish-paperor a napkin neatly folded. A well-fried sole is besteaten without any sauce, but in deference to thenational usage, butter sauce, or melted butter, may beserved with it.

FILLETED SOLES.

It is better for the cook to fillet the soles, forthere is often much waste when it is done by the fishmonger.Having skinned the fish, with a sharp knifemake an incision down the spine-bone from the headto the tail, and then along the fins; press the knife[25]between the flesh and the bone, bearing rather hardagainst the latter, and the fillets will then be readilyremoved. These can now be dressed in a variety ofways; perhaps the most delicate for breakfast is thefollowing:

FILLETS OF SOLE SAUTÉS.

Having dried the fillets, divide them into neatpieces two or three inches long; dip them in thebeaten yolk of egg, and then in seasoned bread-crumbs.Make a little butter hot in the frying-pan,put in the fillets and cook them slowly until brown onone side, then turn and finish on the other.

FILLETS OF SOLE FRIED.

These may either be rolled in one piece or dividedinto several, as in the foregoing recipe. In either caseegg and crumb them thoroughly, place them in thewire-basket as you do them, which immerse in fat hotenough to crisp bread instantly. When done, put thefillets on paper to absorb any grease clinging to them,and serve as hot as possible. All kinds of flat fishcan be filleted and cooked by these recipes, and willusually be found more economical than serving thefish whole. It is also economical to fillet the tail-endof cod, salmon, and turbot, and either fry orsauté, asmay be preferred.

FILLETS OF SOLE WITH LOBSTER.

Thin and fillet a pair of soles, each weighing abouta pound. Roll the fillets, secure them with thread,which remove before serving; put them in a stewpanwith two ounces of sweet butter, cover closely, and[26]allow them to cook at a slow heat for twenty minutesor until tender, taking care to keep them from gettingbrown. Prepare a sauce by boiling a quarter of apound of veal cutlet and the bones of the fish in half-a-pintof water. When reduced to a gill, strain andtake off all fat from the sauce, thicken either with fineflour or "Rizine," put it into the stewpan with thefish, and allow it to stand for a quarter of an hourwithout boiling. Mince or cut in small pieces eitherthe meat of a small fresh lobster, or half a flat tin ofthe best brand of preserved lobster. Make this hotby putting it in a jam pot standing in a saucepan ofboiling water. Take up the fish, carefully pour thesauce round, and place on the top of each fillet someof the lobster.

BAKED WHITING.

Small whiting answer well for this purpose. Tiethem round, the tail to the mouth, dip them in dissolvedbutter, lightly sprinkle with pepper and salt,strew them with pale raspings, put them in a baking-dishwith a little butter, and bake in a quick oven fora quarter of an hour.

COD CUTLETS.

A cheap and excellent dish is made by filleting thetail of cod, egging and crumbing the pieces and fryingthem. Get about a pound and a half of the tail of afine cod; with a sharp knife divide the flesh from thebone lengthways, cut it into neat pieces as nearly of asize as you can, and flatten with a knife. Dip in egg,then in crumbs mixed with a little flour, pepper, andsalt. It is best to fry the cutlets in the wire-basket in[27]plenty of fat, but if this is not convenient they can bedone in the frying-pan; in any case, they should bedone quickly, so that they may get crisp.

FRIED HERRINGS.

Take care the fish is well cleaned, without beingsplit. Two or three hours before cooking, lightlysprinkle with salt and pepper; when ready to cook,wipe and flour the herrings. Have ready in thefrying-pan as much fat at the proper temperature aswill cover the herrings. Cook quickly at first, thenmoderate the heat slightly, and fry for ten to twelveminutes, when they should be crisp and brown. Whendone, lay them on a dish before the fire, in order thatall fat and the fish-oil may drain from them; withthis precaution, fried herrings will be found moredigestible than otherwise they would be.

ROLLED HERRINGS.

Choose the herrings with soft roes. Having scrapedand washed them, cut off the heads, split open, takeout the roes, and cleanse the fish. Hold one in theleft hand, and, with thumb and finger of the right,press the backbone to loosen it, then lay flat on theboard and draw out the bone; it will come out whole,leaving none behind. Dissolve a little fresh butter,pass the inner side of the fish through it, sprinklepepper and salt lightly over, then roll it up tightlywith the fin and tail outwards, roll it in flour andsprinkle a little pepper and salt, then put a smallgame skewer to keep the herring in shape. Haveready a good quantity of boiling fat; it is best to dothe herrings in a wire-basket, and fry them quickly forten minutes. Take them up and set them on a plate[28]before the fire, in order that all the fat may drain fromthem. Pass the roes through flour mixed with asufficient quantity of pepper and salt, fry them brown,and garnish the fish with them and crisp parsley. Adifficulty is often felt in introducing herrings at dinneron account of the number of small bones in them, butthis is obviated by the above method of dressing, aswith care not one bone should be left in.

GALANTINE OF FISH.

Procure a fine large fresh haddock and two smaller,of which to make forcemeat. Take off the head andopen the large fish. Carefully press the meat fromthe backbone, which must be removed without breakingthe skin; trim away the rough parts and small bonesat the sides. Cover the inside of the fish with a layerof forcemeat, and at intervals place lengthways a fewfillets of anchovies, between which sprinkle a littlelobster coral which has been passed through a wiresieve; fold the haddock into its original form, and sewit up with a needle and strong thread. Dip a clothin hot water, wring it as dry as possible, buttersufficient space to cover the fish, then fold it up, tieeach end, and put a small safety pin in the middle tokeep it firm. Braise the galantine for an hour in stockmade from the bones of the fish. Let it stay in theliquor until cold, when take it up and draw out thesewing thread. Reduce and strain the liquor, mixwith cream and aspic jelly, or Nelson's Gelatine,dissolved in the proportion of half-an-ounce to a pint.When this sauce is on the point of setting, coat thegalantine with it, sprinkle with little passed lobster coral,dish in a bed of shred salad, tastefully interspersedwith beetroot cut in dice and dipped in oil and vinegar.

[29]To make the forcemeat, pound the fillets of the smallhaddocks till fine, then work in about half its quantityof bread panada, an ounce of butter, and the fillets oftwo anchovies; season with salt and pepper, mix inone egg and a yolk, pass through a wire sieve, andwork into it a gill of cream.

FILLETS OF SOLE EN ASPIC.

Aspic jelly, or meat jelly, may be made very good,and at a moderate cost, by boiling lean beef or veal inwater with a little vegetable and spice. To make itaccording to the standard recipes is so expensive andtedious that few persons care to attempt it. Thefollowing directions will enable a cook to make anexcellent and clear aspic.

Cut two pounds of lean beefsteak or veal cutletinto dice, put it on in two quarts of cold water, and assoon as it boils, take off the scum as it rises. Let itsimmer gently for half-an-hour; then add four onions,a turnip, carrot, small bundle of sweet herbs, blade ofmace, half-a-dozen white peppercorns, and when it hasagain boiled for an hour strain it through a napkin.Let it stand until cold, remove all the fat, boil it up,and to a quart of the liquor put an ounce of Nelson'sGelatine, previously soaked in cold water. Add saltand a pinch of cayenne pepper, and when the jelly iscool stir in the whites and shells of two eggs wellbeaten. Let the jelly boil briskly for two minutes,let it stand off the fire for a few minutes, then strainthrough a jelly-bag and use as directed. Take thefillets of a pair of large thick soles, cut them into neatsquare pieces, leaving the trimmings for other dishes,and lay them in vinegar with a little salt for an hour.As they must be kept very white the best French[30]vinegar should be used. Boil the fillets gently insalted water, with a little vinegar, till done; take themup and dry them on a cloth. Have ready some pickedparsley and hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters; arrangethese neatly at the bottom of a plain mould so as toform a pretty pattern. Pour in very gently enoughjelly to cover the first layer, let it stand until beginningto set, then put another layer of fish, eggs, and parsley,then more jelly, and so on until the mould is full.When done set the mould on ice, or allow it to standsome hours in a cold place to get well set. Turn itout, ornament with parsley, beetroot, and cut lemon.

COLLARED EELS.

Clean and boil the eels in water highly seasonedwith pepper and salt, an onion, bay-leaf, a clove, anda little vinegar. When the eels are done enough, slipout the bones and cut them up into pieces about twoinches long. Take the liquor in which the fish isboiled, strain it, let it boil in the stewpan without thelid, skimming it until it becomes clear. Dissolve aquarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine to each half-pintof the fish gravy, and boil together for a minute,let it then stand until cool. Arrange the pieces ofeel tastefully in a plain mould with small sprigs ofcurled parsley and slices of hard-boiled eggs, and, ifyou like, a fillet or two of anchovies cut up into dice.When all the fish is thus arranged in the mould, pourthe jelly in very gently, a tablespoonful at a time, inorder not to disturb the solid material. Let the mouldstand in cold water for seven or eight hours, when itcan be turned out. Ornament with parsley, lemon,and beetroot.

LITTLE DISHES OF MEAT.

In this chapter a number of useful and inexpensivedishes are given, which will serve either as breakfastdishes,entrées, or for invalids, and which may, in thehands of an intelligent cook, serve as models formany others. As will be seen, it is not so much aquestion of expense to provide these little tasty dishesas of management. In all the following recipes forlittle dishes of mutton, it will be found a greatadvantage to use New Zealand Meat.

A good cook will never be embarrassed by havingtoo much cold meat on hand, because she will be ableby her skill so to vary the dishes that the appetites ofthose for whom she caters will never tire of it. Evena small piece of the loin of mutton may be served inhalf-a-dozen different ways, and be relished by thosewho are tired of the mutton-chop or the plain roast.

MUTTON CUTLETS.

Taken from the neck, mutton cutlets are expensive,but those from the loin will be found not only convenient,but to answer well at a smaller cost.

First remove the under-cut or fillet from about twopounds of the best end of a loin of mutton, cut offthe flap, which will be useful for stewing, and it isespecially good eaten cold, and then remove the[32]meat from the bones in one piece, which dividewith the fillet into cutlets about half-an-inch thick.Egg them over and dip them in well-seasoned bread-crumbs,fry them until a nice brown, and serve withgravy made from the bones and an onion.

This way of cooking the loin is much more economicalthan in chops, because with them the bones and flapare wasted, whereas in cutlets all is used up.

To stew the flap, put it in a stewpan, the fat downwards,sprinkle pepper and salt, and slice an onion ortwo over, and set it to fry gently in its own fat for anhour. Take up the meat, and put half-a-pint of coldwater to the fat, which, when it has risen in a solidcake, take off, mix a little flour with the gravy whichwill be found beneath the fat, add pepper, salt, andsome cooked potatoes cut in slices. Cut the meatinto neat squares; let it simmer gently in the gravywith the potatoes for an hour.

ROULADES OF MUTTON.

Remove the fillet from a fine loin of mutton, trimaway every particle of skin, fat, and gristle. Flattenthe fillet with a cutlet-bat, and cut it lengthways intoslices as thin as possible; divide these into neatpieces about three inches long. Sprinkle each withpepper, salt, and finely-chopped parsley, roll themup tightly, then dip in beaten egg, and afterwardsin finely-sifted bread-crumbs mixed with an equalquantity of flour and highly seasoned with pepperand salt. As each roulade is thus prepared place iton a game-skewer, three or four on each skewer.[33]Dissolve an ounce of butter in a small frying-pan,and cook the roulades in it.

MUTTON COLLOPS.

Cut neat thin slices from a leg of either roasted orboiled mutton, dip them in yolk of egg and in finedry bread-crumbs to which a little flour, pepper, andsalt have been added. Heat enough butter in a smallfrying-pan to just cover the bottom, put in the slicesof mutton and cook them very slowly, first on oneside then on the other, until they are brown. Garnishthe dish on which the mutton is served with somefried potatoes or potato chips.

MUTTON SAUTÉ.

Put a little butter or bacon fat in the frying-pan,sprinkle pepper and salt over slices of cold mutton,and let them get hot very slowly. The mutton mustbe frequently turned, and never allowed to fry.When turned in the pan for the last time sprinkle alittle chopped parsley on the upper side; remove theslices carefully on to a hot dish, pour the fat in thepan over, and serve.

COLD MUTTON POTTED.

Cut up the mutton, being careful to free it fromall sinew and skin; chop or pound it with half itsweight of cooked bacon until it is as fine as desired.Season with a little pepper, salt, and allspice, put itinto a jar, which set in a saucepan of water over thefire until the meat is hot through. When taken up stir[34]occasionally until cool, then press it into little pots,and pour clarified butter or mutton fat over the top.If liked, a little essence of anchovy may be added tothe seasoning.

MUTTON PIES.

Mince a quarter of a pound of underdone mutton,taking care to have it free from skin and fat. Mixwith it a tablespoonful of rich gravy—that which isfound under a cake of dripping from a joint isparticularly suitable for this purpose—add a few dropsof essence of anchovy, a pinch of cayenne pepper, anda small teaspoonful of minced parsley. If necessaryadd salt.

Line four patty-pans with puff paste, divide themutton into equal portions and put it into the pans,cover each with a lid of paste, and bake in a quickoven for half-an-hour.

OX BRAIN.

Having carefully washed the brain, boil it very fast,in order to harden it, in well-seasoned gravy. Whenit is done, take it out of the gravy and set it asideuntil cold. Cut it either in slices or in halves, dipeach piece in egg, then in bread-crumbs well seasonedwith dried and sifted parsley, pepper, and salt, frythem in a little butter until brown. The gravyhaving become cold, take off the fat, and boil it in astewpan without a lid until it is reduced to a smallquantity; pour it round the brain, and serve.

BRAIN FRITTERS.

Carefully wash an ox brain, and boil it for aquarter of an hour in well-seasoned stock. Whenthe brain is cold, cut it into slices as thin aspossible, dip each of them in batter, drop them asyou do them into a stewpan half-full of fat at atemperature of 430°, or that which will browninstantly a piece of bread dipped into it. To makethe batter, mix two large tablespoonfuls of fine flourwith four of cold water, stir in a tablespoonful ofdissolved butter or of fine oil, the yolk of an egg,and a pinch of salt and pepper; when ready to use,beat the white of the egg to a strong froth, and mixwith it. Do not fry more than two fritters at once;as you take them up, throw them on paper to absorbany grease clinging to them, serve on a napkin orornamental dish-paper. If this recipe is closelyfollowed, the fritters will be light, crisp, delicatemorsels, melting in the mouth, and form besidesa very pretty dish. Garnish with fried parsley; takecare the parsley is thoroughly dry, put it into asmall frying-basket, and immerse it for an instantin the fat in which the fritters are to be cooked.Turn it out on paper, dry, and serve.

MARROW TOAST.

Let the butcher break up a marrow-bone. Takeout the marrow in as large pieces as possible, and putthem into a stewpan with a little boiling water, ratherhighly salted. When the marrow has boiled for a[36]minute, drain the water away through a fine strainer.Have ready a slice of lightly-toasted bread, place themarrow on it, and put it into a Dutch oven before thefire for five minutes, or until it is done. Sprinkleover it a little pepper and salt, and a small teaspoonfulof parsley, chopped fine. The toast must be servedvery hot.

CHICKEN IN ASPIC JELLY.

Cut the white part of a cold boiled chicken, andas many similar pieces of cold ham, into neat rounds,not larger than a florin. Run a little aspic jelly intoa fancy border mould, allow it to set, and arrange adecoration of boiled carrot and white savoury custardcut crescent shape, dipping each piece in meltedaspic. Pour in a very little more jelly, and when it isset place the chicken and ham round alternately,with a sprig of chervil, or small salad, here and there.Put in a very small quantity of aspic to keep this inplace, then, when nearly set, sufficient to cover it.Arrange another layer, this time first of ham then ofchicken, fix them in the same way, and fill up themould with aspic jelly. When the dish is turned outfill the centre with cold green peas, nicely seasoned,and garnish round with chopped aspic and little starsof savoury custard. To make this, soak a quarter ofan ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in a gill of milk,dissolve it over the fire, and stir in a gill of thickcream, season to taste with cayenne pepper and salt,and, if liked, a little grate of nutmeg. Pour the[37]custard on to a large dish, and when cold cut it intothe required shapes.

VEAL CUTLETS IN WHITE SAUCE.

Cut six or seven cutlets, about half-an-inch thick,from a neck of veal, braise them in half-a-pint of goodwhite stock with an onion, a small bunch of herbs, abacon bone, and two or three peppercorns, until theyare done. Let the cutlets get cool in the liquor, thendrain them. Strain the liquor and make a white saucewith it; add a tablespoonful of thick cream and aquarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, dissolved ina gill of milk; season with salt and cayenne pepper,stirring occasionally until quite cold. Dip the cutletsin, smoothly coating one side, and before the sauce setsdecorate them with very narrow strips of truffle in theform of a star. Cut as many pieces of cooked tongueor ham as there are cutlets, dish them alternately in acircle on a border of aspic, fill the centre with a saladcomposed of all kinds of cold cooked vegetables, cutwith a pea-shaped cutter and seasoned with oil,vinegar, pepper, and salt. Garnish with aspic jellycut lozenge shape and sprigs of chervil.

KIDNEYS SAUTÉS.

Like many other articles of diet, kidneys within thelast ten years have been doubled in price, and are soscarce as to be regarded as luxuries. The method ofcooking them generally in use is extravagant, andrenders them tasteless and indigestible. Kidneys[38]should never be cooked rapidly, and those personswho cannot eat them slightly underdone should foregothem. One kidney dressed as directed in the followingrecipe will go as far as two cooked in the ordinarymanner—an instance, if one were needed, of theeconomy of well-prepared food.

Choose fine large kidneys, skin them and cut eachthe round way into thin slices: each kidney shouldyield from ten to twelve slices. Have ready a tablespoonfulof flour highly seasoned with pepper andsalt and well mixed together; dip each piece ofkidney in it. Cut some neat thin squares of streakedbacon, fry themvery slowly in a little butter; whendone, put them on the dish for serving, and keep hotwhilst yousauté the kidneys, which put into the fatthe bacon was cooked in. In about a minute thegravy will begin to rise on the upper side, thenturn the kidneys and let them finish cooking slowly;when they are done, as they will be in three to fourminutes, the gravy will again begin to rise on the sidewhich is uppermost. Put the kidneys on the dishwith the bacon, and pour over them a spoonful ortwo of plain beef gravy, or water thickened with alittle flour, boiled and mixed with the fat and gravyfrom the kidneys in the frying-pan. If there is toomuch fat in the pan, pour it away before boiling upthe gravy. Serve the kidneys on a hot-water dish.

TINNED KIDNEYS WITH MUSHROOMS.
(Tomoana Brand.)

Dry a half-tin of champignons in a cloth, or, ifconvenient, prepare a similar quantity of fresh button[39]mushrooms; add to these a few pieces of dried mushrooms,previously soaked for ten minutes in tepidwater, put them into a stewpan with a slice of butter,and stir constantly for six minutes, then add two orthree kidneys cut in small neat pieces, in the shape ofdice is best, and continue stirring until the kidneysare hot through, taking care to do them slowly; atthe last moment season with pepper and salt, andserve very hot. Garnish the dish with fried sippetsof bread.

KIDNEYS WITH PICCALILLI SAUCE.
(Tomoana Brand.)

Take the kidneys out of the gravy, and cut theminto six slices. Mix a small teaspoonful of currypowder with three teaspoonfuls of fine flour and asmall pinch of salt. Dip each slice in this mixture,and when all are done put them in the frying-panwith a little butter, and let them get slowly hotthrough. When done, put the kidneys in the centreof a hot dish, and pour round them a sauce made asfollows: Boil up the gravy of the kidneys, and stirinto it sufficient minced piccalilli pickles to make itquite thick, add a teaspoonful of flour to a tablespoonfulof the piccalilli vinegar, stir into the sauce,and when all has boiled up together, pour it roundthe kidneys.

BROILED KIDNEYS.

These are quite an epicure's dish, and care mustbe taken to cook them slowly. Having skinned thekidneys (they must not be split or cut) dip them for a[40]moment in boiling fat, place them on the gridironover a slow fire, turning them every minute. Theywill take ten to fifteen minutes to cook, and will bedone as soon as the gravy begins to run. Place themon a hot dish rubbed over with butter, salt andpepper them rather highly. It must be understoodthat kidneys thus cooked ought to have the gravy inthem, and that when they are cut at table it shouldrun from them freely and in abundance.

LAMB'S FRY.

A really proper fry should consist not only of sweetbreadsand liver, but of the heart, melt, brains, frill,and kidneys, each of which requires a different treatment.It is quite as easy to cook a fry properly as toflour and fry it hard and over-brown, as is too frequentlydone. Trim the sweetbreads neatly, andsimmer them for a quarter of an hour in good whitestock with an onion. When they are done take themup and put the brains in the gravy, allowing them toboil as fast as possible in order to harden them; letthem get cold, then cut into slices, egg and bread-crumbthem, and fry with the sweetbread in a littlebutter. After the brains are taken out of the gravy,put the slices of heart and melt in, and let them stewslowly until tender. When they are ready, flour them,and fry with the liver and frill until brown. Lastly,put the kidneys, cut in slices, into the pan, and verygently fry for about a minute. Shake a little flour ontothe pan, stir it about until it begins to brown; thenpour on to it the gravy, in which the sweetbreads, etc.,[41]were stewed, see it is nicely seasoned, and pour roundthe fry, which should be neatly arranged in the centreof the dish. Garnish with fried parsley.

LAMB'S SWEETBREADS.

These make an admirable breakfast dish, and canbe partly prepared over-night. Trim and wash thesweetbreads, put them into a saucepan with sufficientwell-flavoured stock to cover them, a minced onionand a sprig of lemon-thyme; boil gently for fifteenminutes, or a little longer if necessary. Take themup, drain, dip in egg and finely-sifted bread-crumbsmixed with a little flour, pepper, and salt. Fry verycarefully, so as not to make it brown or hard, somesmall slices of bacon, keep warm whilst you fry thesweetbreads in the fat which has run from it, adding,if required, a little piece of butter or lard. For abreakfast dish, the sweetbreads should be servedwithout gravy, but if for anentrée the liquor in whichthey were stewed, with slight additions and a littlethickening, can be poured round them in the dish.Calves' sweetbreads are prepared in the same manneras the above, and can either be fried, finished in aDutch oven, or served white, with parsley and butter,or white sauce.

VEAL À LA CASSEROLE.

For this dish a piece of the fillet about three inchesthick will be required, and weighing from two to threepounds. It should be cut from one side of the leg,[42]without bone; but sometimes butchers object to giveit, as cutting in this manner interferes with cutlets.In such a case a piece must be chosen near theknuckle, and the bone be taken out before cooking.For a larger party, a thick slice of the fillet, weighingabout four pounds, will be found advantageous.

With a piece of tape tie the veal into a round shape,flour, and put it into a stewpan with a small piece ofbutter, fry until it becomes brown on all sides. Thenput half a pint of good gravy, nicely seasoned withpepper and salt, cover the stewpan closely, and set iton the stove to cook very slowly for at least fourhours. When done, the veal will be exquisitely tender,full of flavour, but not the least ragged. Take themeat up, and keep hot whilst the gravy is reduced, byboiling without the lid of the saucepan, to a richglaze, which pour over the meat and serve.

BROWN FRICASSÉE OF CHICKEN.

This is a brown fricassée of chicken, and is anexcellent dish. No doubt the reason it is so seldomgiven is that, although easy enough to do, it requirescare and attention in finishing it. Many of the bestcooks, in the preparation of chickens for fricassée, cutthem up before cooking, but we prefer to boil themwhole, and afterwards to divide them, as the fleshthus is less apt to shrink and get dry. The chickencan be slowly boiled in plain water, with salt andonions, or, as is much better, in white broth of anykind. When the chicken is tender cut it up; take[43]the back, and the skin, pinions of the wings, andpieces which do not seem nice enough for a superiordish, and boil them in a quart of the liquor in whichit was boiled. Add mushroom trimmings, onions,and a sprig of thyme; boil down to one-half, thenstrain, take off all fat, and stir over the fire with theyolk of two eggs and an ounce of fine flour untilthickened. Dip each piece of chicken in some ofthis sauce, and when they are cold pass them throughfine bread-crumbs, then in the yolk of egg, and crumbagain. Fry carefully in hot fat. Dish the chickenwith a border of fried parsley, and the remainder ofthe gravy poured round the dish. This dish isgenerally prepared by French cooks by frying thechicken in oil, and seasoning with garlic; but unlessthe taste of the guests is well known, it is safer tofollow the above recipe.

CHICKEN SAUTÉ.

Put any of the meat of the breast or of the wingswithout bone into a frying-pan with a little fresh butteror bacon fat. Cook them very slowly, turning repeatedly;if the meat has not been previously cookedit will take ten minutes, and five minutes if aréchauffé.Sprinkle with pepper, and serve with mushrooms orbroiled bacon. The legs of cooked chickens areexcellentsautés, but they should be boned before theyare put into the pan.

POTATO HASH.

Put some cold potatoes chopped into the frying-panwith a little fat, stir them about for five minutes,[44]then add to them an equal quantity of cold meat, cutinto neat little squares, season nicely with pepper andsalt, fry gently, stirring all the time, until thoroughlyhot through.

DRY CURRY.

Fry a minced onion in butter until lightly browned,cut up the flesh of two cooked chicken legs, or anyother tender meat, into dice, mix this with the onions,and stir them together over the fire until the meat ishot through; sprinkle over it about a small teaspoonfulof curry-powder, and salt to taste. Having thoroughlymixed the meat with the curry-powder, pour over ita tablespoonful of milk or cream, and stir over thefire until the moisture has dried up. Celery salt maybe used instead of plain salt, and some persons add afew drops of lemon-juice when the curry is finished.

CROQUETTES.

Croquettes of all kinds, fish, game, poultry or anydelicate meats, can be successfully made on the followingmodel: Whatever material is used must be finelyminced or pounded. Care is required in making thesauce, if it is too thin it is difficult to mould thecroquettes, and ice will be required to set it. Croquettesof game without any flavouring, except a littlesalt and cayenne, are generally acceptable as a breakfastdish. Preserved lobster makes very good croquettesfor anentrée, and small scraps of any kind canthus be made into a very good dish. Put one ounceof fine flour into a stewpan with half a gill of cold[45]water, stir this over a slow fire very rapidly until itforms a paste, then add one ounce of butter, and stiruntil well incorporated. Mix in a small teaspoonfulof essence of shrimps or anchovies, with a pinch ofsalt and pepper. Take the stewpan off the fire, andstir the yolk of an egg briskly into the sauce;thoroughly mix it with half-a-pound of pounded fishor meat, spread it out on a plate until it is cool.Flour your hands, take a small piece of the croquettemixture, roll into a ball or into the shape of a cork,then pass it through very finely-sifted and dried bread-crumbs.Repeat the process until all the mixture isused; put the croquettes as you do them into a wirefrying-basket, which shake very gently, when all areplaced in it, in order to free them from superfluouscrumbs. Have ready a stewpan half-full of boilingfat, dip the basket in, gently moving it about, andtaking care the croquettes are covered with fat. Inabout a minute they will become a delicate brown,and will then be done. Turn them on a paper toabsorb any superfluous fat, serve them on a napkin orornamental dish paper. No more croquettes thanwill lie on the bottom of the basket without touchingeach other should be fried at once.

MEAT CAKES À L'ITALIENNE.

Mix very fine any kind of cold meat or chicken,taking care to have it free from skin and gristle, addto it a quarter of its weight of sifted bread-crumbs,a few drops of essence of anchovy, a little parsley,pepper and salt, and sufficient egg to moisten the[46]whole. Flour your hands, roll the meat into littlecakes about the size of a half-crown piece, then flattenthe cakes with the back of a spoon, dip them in eggand fine bread-crumbs, and fry them in a little butteruntil lightly browned on the outside. Put them on ahot dish and garnish with boiled Italian paste.

RAISED PORK PIE.

Take a pound of meat, fat and lean, from thechump end of a fine fore-loin of pork, cut it intoneat dice, mix a tablespoonful of water with it, andseason with a large teaspoonful of salt and a smallone of black pepper. To make the crust, boil aquarter of a pound of lard or clarified dripping in agill and a half of water, and pour it hot on to onepound of flour, to which a good pinch of salt hasbeen added. Mix into a stiff paste, pinch off enoughof it to make the lid, and keep it hot. Flour yourboard and work the paste into a ball, then with theknuckles of your right hand press a hole in thecentre, and mould the paste into a round or ovalshape, taking care to keep it a proper thickness.Having put in the meat, join the lid to the pie, whichraise lightly with both hands so as to keep it a goodhigh shape, cut round the edge with a sharp knife, andmake the trimmings into leaves to ornament the lid;and having placed these on, with a rose in the centre,put the pie on a floured baking-sheet and brush itover with yolk of egg.

The crust of the pie should be cool and set beforeputting it into the oven, which should be a moderate[47]heat. When the gravy boils out the pie is done. Anhour and a half will bake a pie of this size. Make alittle gravy with the bones and trimmings of the pork,and to half-a-pint of it add a quarter of an ounce ofNelson's Gelatine, and nicely season with pepper andsalt. When the pie is cold remove the rose from thetop, make a little hole, insert a small funnel, and pour inas much gravy as the pie will hold. Replace the roseon the top, and put the pie on a dish with a cut paper.

If preferred, the pie can be made in a tin mould;but the crust is nicer raised by the hand. A greatpoint to observe is to begin moulding the crust whilstit is hot, and to get it finished as quickly as possible.

VEAL AND HAM PIE.

Prepare the crust as for a pork pie. Cut a poundof veal cutlet and a quarter of a pound of ham intodice, season with a teaspoonful of salt and another ofblack pepper, put the meat into the crust, and finishas for pork pie. Add a quarter of an ounce ofNelson's Gelatine—previously soaked in cold water,and then dissolved—to a teacupful of gravy madefrom the veal trimmings.

PORK SAUSAGES.

When a pig is cut up in the country, sausages areusually made of the trimmings; but when the meathas to be bought, the chump-end of a fore-loin willbe found to answer best. The fine well-fed meat ofa full-grown pig, known in London as "hog-meat," isevery way preferable to that called "dairy-fed pork."[48]The fat should be nearly in equal proportion to thelean, but of course this matter must be arranged tosuit the taste of those who will eat the sausages. Ifyoung pork is used, remove the skin as thinly as youcan—it is useful for various purposes—and then witha sharp knife cut all the flesh from the bones, takeaway all sinew and gristle, and cut the fat and leaninto strips. Some mincing-machines require the meatlonger than others; for Kent's Combination, cut it intopieces about an inch long and half-an-inch thick. Toeach pound of meat put half a gill of gravy madefrom the bones, or water will do; then mix equallywith it two ounces of bread-crumbs, a large teaspoonfulof salt, a small one of black pepper, dried sage, anda pinch of allspice. This seasoning should be wellmixed with the bread, as the meat will then beflavoured properly throughout the mass. Arrange theskin on the filler, tie it at the end, put the meat, alittle at a time, into the hopper, turn the handle of themachine briskly, and take care the skin is only lightlyfilled. When the sausages are made, tie the skin atthe other end, pinch them into shape, and then loopthem by passing one through another, giving a twistto each as you do them. Sausage-skins, especially ifpreserved, should be well soaked before using, or theymay make the sausages too salt. It is a good plan toput the skin on the water-tap and allow the water torun through it, as thus it will be well washed on theinside. Fifteen to twenty minutes should be allowedfor frying sausages, and when done they should benicely browned. A little butter or lard is best for[49]frying, and some pieces of light bread may be fried init when the sausages are done, and placed round thedish by way of garnish. Cooks cannot do betterthan remember Dr. Kitchener's directions for fryingsausages. After saying, "They are best when quitefresh made," he adds: "put a bit of butter or drippinginto a clean frying-pan; as soon as it is melted, beforeit gets hot, put in the sausages, and shake the pan fora minute, and keep turning them. Be careful not tobreak or prick them in so doing. Fry them over avery slow fire till they are nicely browned on all sides.The secret of frying sausages is to let them get hotvery gradually; they then will not break if they arenot stale. The common practice to prevent thembursting is to prick them with a fork, but this lets thegravy out."

PUDDINGS.

CUSTARD PUDDING.

We give this pudding first because it affords anopportunity for giving hints on making milk puddingsgenerally, and because, properly made, there is nomore delicious pudding than this. It is besides mostuseful and nutritious, not only for the dinner ofhealthy people, but for children and invalids. Butfew cooks, however, make it properly; as a rule toomany eggs are used, to which the milk is added cold,and the pudding is baked in a quick oven. The consequenceis that the pudding curdles and comes totable swimming in whey; or, even if this does nothappen, the custard is full of holes and is tough.

In the first place, milk for all puddings with eggsshould be poured on to the eggs boiling hot; in thenext, the baking must be very slowly done, if possible,as directed in the recipe; the dish containing thepudding to be placed in another half-full of water.This, of course, prevents the baking proceeding toorapidly, and also prevents the pudding acquiring asort of burned greasy flavour, which is injurious forinvalids. Lastly, too many eggs should not be used;the quantity given, two to the pint of milk, is inall cases quite sufficient, and will make a fine richcustard.

We never knew a pudding curdle, even with[51]London milk a day old, if all these directions wereobserved; but it is almost needless to say, that thepudding made with new rich milk is much finer thanone of inferior milk.

Boil a pint and a half of milk with two ounces oflump sugar, or rather more if a sweet pudding isliked, and pour it boiling hot on three eggs lightlybeaten—that is, just sufficiently so to mix whitesand yolks. Flavour the custard with nutmeg, gratedlemon-peel, or anything which may be preferred andpour it into a tart-dish. Place this dish in anotherthree-parts full of boiling water, and bake slowly forforty minutes, or until the custard is firm. There isno need to butter the dish if the pudding is baked asdirected.

SOUFFLÉ PUDDING.

This is a delicious pudding, and to insure itssuccess great care and exactness are required. Inthe first place, to avoid failure it is necessary that thebutter, flour, sugar, and milk, should be stirred longenough over a moderate fire to make a stiff paste,because if this is thin the eggs will separate, and thepudding when done resemble a batter with froth onthe top.

Before beginning to make the pudding, prepare apint tin by buttering it inside and fastening round itwith string on the outside a buttered band of writing-paper,which will stand two inches above the tin andprevent the pudding running over as it rises. Meltan ounce of butter in a stewpan, add one ounce ofsifted sugar, stir in an ounce and a half of Vienna[52]flour, mix well together, add a gill of milk, and stirover the fire with a wooden spoon until it boils andis thick. Take the stewpan off the fire, beat up theyolks of three eggs with half a teaspoonful of extractof vanilla, and stir a little at a time into the paste, toinsure both being thoroughly mixed together. Puta small pinch of salt to the whites of four eggs, whipthem as stiff as possible, and stir lightly into thepudding, which pour immediately into the preparedmould. Have ready a saucepan with enough boilingwater to reach a little way up the tin, which is bestplaced on a trivet, so that the water cannot touch thepaper band. Let the pudding steam very gently fortwenty minutes, or until it is firm in the middle, andwill turn out.

For sauce, boil two tablespoonfuls of apricot jamin a gill of water, with two ounces of lump sugar, stirin a wine-glassful of sherry, add a few drops of Nelson'sVanilla Flavouring, pour over the pudding and serve.

OMELET SOUFFLÉ.

Put the yolks of two eggs into a basin with an ounceof sifted sugar and a few drops of Nelson's VanillaEssence; beat the yolks and sugar together for sixminutes, or until the mixture becomes thick. Thenwhip the whites very stiff, so that they will turn outof the basin like a jelly. Mix the yolks and whiteslightly together, have ready an ounce of butter dissolvedin the omelet-pan, pour in the eggs, hold thispan over a slow fire for two minutes, then put thefrying-pan into a quick oven and bake until the[53]omelet has risen; four minutes ought to be sufficientto finish the omelet in the oven; when done, slide iton to a warm dish, double it, sift sugar over, andserve instantly.

SPONGE SOUFFLÉ.

Cover the bottom of a tart-dish with sponge-cakes,pour over a little brandy and sherry; put in a moderateoven until hot, then pour on the cakes an egg whipmade of two packets of Nelson's Albumen, beatento a strong froth with a little sugar. Bake for aquarter of an hour in a slow oven.

CABINET PUDDING.

Butter very thickly a pint pudding-basin, and coverit neatly with stoned muscatel raisins, the outer sideof them being kept to the basin. Lightly fill up thebasin with alternate layers of sponge-cake and ratafias,and when ready to steam the pudding, pour bydegrees over the cake a custard made of half-a-pintof boiling milk, an egg, three lumps of sugar, a tablespoonfulof brandy, and a little lemon flavouring.Cover the basin with a paper cap and steam or boilgently for three-quarters of an hour. Great careshould be taken not to boil puddings of this class fast,as it renders them tough and flavourless.

BRANDY SAUCE.

Mix a tablespoonful of fine flour with a gill of coldwater, put it into a gill of boiling water, and, having[54]stirred over the fire until it is thick, add the yolk ofan egg. Continue stirring for five minutes, andsweeten with two ounces of castor sugar. Mix a wine-glassof brandy with two tablespoonfuls of sherry, stirit into the sauce, and pour it round the pudding. Ifliked, a grate of nutmeg may be added to the sauce,and, if required to be rich, an ounce of butter may bestirred in before the brandy.

WARWICKSHIRE PUDDING.

Butter a pint-and-a-half tart-dish, lay in it a layer oflight bread, cut thin, on this sprinkle a portion of twoounces of shred suet, and of one ounce of lemoncandied-peel, chopped very fine. Fill the dish lightlywith layers of bread, sprinkling over each a little ofthe suet and peel.

Boil a pint of milk with two ounces of sugar, pourit on two eggs, beaten for a minute, and add it to thepudding just before putting it into the oven; a littleof Nelson's Essence of Lemon or Almonds may beadded to the custard. Bake the pudding in a veryslow oven for an hour.

VANILLA RUSK PUDDING.

Dissolve, but do not oil, an ounce of butter, mix ina quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, stir over the firefor a few minutes, add an egg well beaten, and half ateaspoonful of Nelson's Vanilla Extract, or as muchas will give a good flavour to the paste, which continuestirring until it gets thick.[55]

Spread four slices of rusk with the vanilla paste,put them in a buttered tart-dish. Boil half-a-pint ofnew milk, pour it on to an egg well beaten, then addit to the rusk, and put the pudding to bake in aslow oven for an hour. Turn out when done, andsift sugar over the pudding. If a superior pudding isdesired, boil a tablespoonful of apricot jam in a teacupfulof plain sugar syrup, add a little vanillaflavouring, and pour over the pudding at the momentof serving.

JUBILEE PUDDING.

Pour a pint of boiling milk on two ounces ofRizine, stir over the fire for ten minutes, add half anounce of butter, the yolks of two eggs, an ounce ofcastor sugar, and six drops of Nelson's Essence ofAlmonds. Put the pudding into a buttered pie-dish,and bake in a moderate oven for a quarter of anhour. When taken from the oven, spread over it athin layer of apricot jam, and on this the whites ofthe eggs beaten to a strong froth, with half an ounceof castor sugar. Return the pudding to a slow ovenfor about four minutes, in order to set the meringue.

NATAL PUDDING.

Soak half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pintof cold water until it is soft, when add the gratedpeel of half a lemon, the juice of two lemons, thebeaten yolks of three eggs, and six ounces of lumpsugar dissolved in half-a-pint of boiling water. Stirthe mixture over the fire until it thickens, taking carethat it does not boil. Have ready the whites of the eggs[56]well whisked, stir all together, pour into a fancy mould,which put into a cold place until the pudding is set.

QUEEN'S PUDDING.

Half-a-pound of bread-crumbs, a pint of new milk,two ounces of butter, the yolks of four eggs, and a littleNelson's Essence of Lemon. Boil the bread-crumbs andmilk together, then add the sugar, butter, and eggs;when these are well mixed, bake in a tart-dish until alight brown. Then put a layer of strawberry jam, andon the top of this the whites of the eggs beaten toa stiff froth, with a little sifted sugar. Smooth overthe meringue with a knife dipped in boiling water,and bake for ten minutes in a slow oven.

CHOCOLATE PUDDING.

Boil half-a-pound of light stale bread in a pint ofnew milk. Stir continually until it becomes a thickpaste; then add an ounce of butter, a quarter of apound of sifted sugar, and two large teaspoonfuls ofSchweitzer's Cocoatina, with a little Nelson's Essenceof Vanilla. Take the pudding off the fire, and mix in,first, the yolks of three eggs, then the whites beatento a strong froth. Put into a buttered tart-dish andbake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour.

COCOA-NUT PUDDING.

Choose a large nut, with the milk in it, grate itfinely, mix it with an equal weight of finely-sifted sugar,half its weight of butter, the yolks of four eggs, and themilk of the nut. Let the butter be beaten to a cream,[57]and when all the other ingredients are mixed with it,add the whites of the eggs, whisked to a strong froth.Line a tart-dish with puff-paste, put in the puddingmixture and bake slowly for an hour. Butter a sheetof paper and cover the top of the pudding, as it shouldnot get brown.

RASPBERRY AND CURRANT PUDDING.

Stew raspberries and currants with sugar and water,taking care to have plenty of juice. Cut the crumbof a stale tin-loaf in slices about half-an-inch thick andput in a pie-dish, leaving room for the bread to swell,with alternate layers of fruit, until the dish is full. Thenput in as much of the juice as you can without causingthe bread to rise. When it is soaked up put in therest of the juice, cover with a plate, and let the puddingstand until the next day. When required for use turnout and pour over it a good custard or cream. Theexcellence of this pudding depends on there beingplenty of syrup to soak the bread thoroughly. This isuseful when pastry is objected to.

THE CAPITAL PUDDING.

Shred a quarter of a pound of suet, mix it with halfa pound of flour, one small teaspoonful each of baking-powderand carbonate of soda, then add four tablespoonfulsof strawberry or raspberry jam, and stir wellwith a gill of milk. Boil for four hours in a highmould, and serve with wine or fruit sauce. The latteris made by stirring jam into thin butter sauce.

ITALIAN FRITTERS.

Cut slices of very light bread half-an-inch thick,with a round paste-cutter, divide them into neatshapes all alike in size. Throw them into boiling fatand fry quickly of a rich golden brown, dry them onpaper, place on a dish, and pour over orange or lemonsyrup, or any kind of preserve made hot. Honey orgolden syrup may be used for those who like them.

DUCHESS OF FIFE'S PUDDING.

Boil two ounces of rice in a pint of milk untilquite tender. When done, mix with it a quarter ofan ounce of Nelson's Gelatine soaked in a tablespoonfulof water. Line the inside of a plain mouldwith the rice, and when it is set fill it up with half-a-pintof cream, whipped very stiff and mixed withsome nice preserve, stewed fruit, or marmalade. Afterstanding some hours turn out the pudding, and pourover it a delicate syrup made of the same fruit asthat put inside the rice.

WELSH CHEESECAKE.

Dry a quarter of a pound of fine flour, mix withtwo ounces of sifted loaf-sugar, and add it by degreesto two ounces of butter beaten to a cream; then workin three well-beaten eggs, flavour with Nelson's Essenceof Lemon. Line patty-pans with short crust, put inthe above mixture, and bake in a quick oven.

FRIAR'S OMELET.

Make six moderate-sized apples into sauce, sweeten[59]with powdered loaf-sugar, stir in two ounces of butter,and when cold, mix with two well-beaten eggs. Buttera tart-dish, and strew the bottom and sides thicklywith bread-crumbs, then put in the apple-sauce, andcover with bread-crumbs to the depth of a quarter ofan inch, put a little dissolved butter on the top, andbake for an hour in a good oven. When done, turnit out, and sift sugar over it.

COMPOTE OF APPLES WITH FRIED BREAD.

Bake a dozen good cooking apples, scrape out thepulp, boil this with half-a-pound of sugar to a poundof pulp, until it becomes stiff. It must be stirred allthe time it is boiling. When done, place the compotein the centre of the dish, piling it up high. Haveready some triangular pieces of fried bread, arrangesome like a crown on the top, the remainder at thebottom of the compote. Have ready warmed half apot of apricot marmalade mixed with a little plainsugar-syrup, and pour it over the compote, takingcare that each piece of bread is well covered.

APPLE FOOL.

Bake good sharp apples; when done, remove thepulp and rub it through a sieve, sweeten and flavourwith Nelson's Essence of Lemon; when cold add toit a custard made of eggs and milk, or milk or creamsweetened will be very good. Keep the fool quitethick. Serve with rusks or sponge finger biscuits.

APPLE MERINGUE.

Beat up two packets of Nelson's Albumen with sixsmall teaspoonfuls of water, and stir them into half-a-poundof stiff apple-sauce flavoured with Nelson'sEssence of Lemon. Put the meringue on a brighttin or silver dish, pile it up high in a rocky shape,and bake in a quick oven for ten minutes.

STEWED PEARS WITH RICE.

Put four large pears cut in halves into a stewpanwith a pint of claret, Burgundy, or water, and eightounces of sugar, simmer them until perfectly tender.Take out the pears and let the syrup boil down tohalf; flavour it with vanilla. Have ready a teacupfulof rice, nicely boiled in milk and sweetened, spread iton a dish, lay the pears on it, pour the syrup over,and serve. This is best eaten cold.

COMPOTE OF PRUNES.

Wash the fruit in warm water, put it on to boil incold water in which lump sugar has been dissolved.To a pound of prunes put half-a-pound of sugar, apint of water, with the thin rind and juice of alemon. Let them simmer for an hour, or until sotender that they will mash when pressed. Strain thefruit and set it aside. Boil the syrup until it becomesvery thick and is on the point of returning to sugar,then pour it over the prunes, turn them about so thatthey become thoroughly coated, taking care not tobreak them, let them lie for twelve hours, then pile upon a glass dish for dessert.

ON JELLY-MAKING.

It is within the memory of many persons that jellywas only to be made from calves' feet by a slow,difficult, and expensive process. There is, indeed, astory told of the wife of a lawyer, early in this century,having appropriated some valuable parchment deedsto make jelly, when she could not procure calves' feet.But the secret that it could be so made was carefullyguarded by the possessors of it, and it was not untilthe introduction of Nelson's Gelatine that people werebrought to believe that jelly could be made otherthan in the old-fashioned way. Even now there isa lingering superstition that there is more nourishmentin jelly made of calves' feet than that made fromGelatine. The fact is, however, that Gelatine isequally nutritious from whatever source it is procured.Foreign Gelatine, as is well known, does sometimescontain substances which, if not absolutely deleterious,are certainly undesirable; but Messrs. Nelson warranttheir Gelatine of equal purity with that derived fromcalves' feet.

It is unnecessary to enlarge on the economy bothin time and money of using Gelatine, or the morecertain result obtained from it. If the recipe givenfor making "a quart of jelly" is closely followed, amost excellent and brilliant jelly will be produced.Many cooks get worried about their jelly-bags, and are[62]much divided in opinion as to the best kind to use.It is not a point of great consequence whether a feltor close flannel is selected. We incline to the latter,which must be of good quality, and if the material isnot thick it should be used double.

When put away otherwise than perfectly clean anddry, or when stored in a damp place, flannel bags aresure to acquire a strong mouldy flavour, which iscommunicated to all jelly afterwards strained throughthem.

The great matter, therefore, to observe in respect ofthe jelly-bag, is that it be put away in a proper condition,that is, perfectly free from all stiffness andfrom any smell whatever.

As soon as the bag is done with, turn it inside out,throw it into a pan of boiling water, stir it about witha spoon until it is cleansed. Then, have another panof boiling water, and again treat the bag in the samemanner. Add as much cold water as will enable youto wring the bag out dry, or it can be wrung out in acloth. This done, finally rinse in hot water, wring,and, if possible, dry the bag in the open air. Seethat it is perfectly free from smell; if not, wash invery hot water again. Wrap the bag in several foldsof clean paper and keep it in a dry place.

A thing to be observed is that, if the jelly is allowedto come very slowly to boiling-point it will be moreeffectually cleared, as the impurities of the sugar andthe thicker portions of the lemons thus rise moresurely with the egg than if this part of the process istoo rapidly carried out. In straining, if the jelly is[63]well made, it is best to pour all into the bag at onetime, doing it slowly, so as not to break up the scummore than necessary. Should the jelly not be perfectlybright on a first straining, it should be kept hot, andslowly poured again through the bag. The contentsof the bag should not be disturbed, nor should theslightest pressure be applied, as this is certain tocloud the jelly. If brandy is used, it should be put inafter the jelly is strained, as by boiling both the spiritand flavour of it are lost.

In order that jelly may turn out well, donot put it into the mould until it is on thepoint of setting. If attention is paid to this therewill never be any difficulty in getting jelly to turn outof a mould, and putting it into hot water or using hotcloths will be unnecessary. A mould should be usedas cold as possible, because then when the jelly comesinto contact with it, it is at once set and cannot stick.Any kind of mould may be used. If the direction toput the jelly inwhen just setting is followed, it willturn out as well from an earthenware as from a coppermould.

It should be unnecessary to say that the utmostcleanliness is imperative to insure the perfection ofjelly. So delicate a substance not only contracts anydisagreeable flavour, but is rendered cloudy by theleast touch of any greasy spoon, or by a stewpanwhich has not been properly cleansed.

HOW TO USE GELATINE.

There are a few points connected with the use ofGelatine for culinary purposes which cannot be toostrongly impressed upon housekeepers and cooks.

1. Gelatine should always be soaked in cold watertill it is thoroughly saturated—say, till it is so softthat it will tear with the fingers—whether this isspecified in the recipe or not.

2. Nelson's Gelatine being cut very fine will soak inabout an hour, but whenever possible it is desirableto give it a longer time. When convenient, it is agood plan to put Gelatine to soak over-night. It willthen dissolve in liquid below boiling-point.

When jelly has to be cleared with white of egg donot boil it longer than necessary. Two minutes isquite sufficient to set the egg and clarify the jelly.

Use as little Gelatine as possible; that is to say,never use more than will suffice to make a jelly strongenough to retain its form when turned out of themould. The prejudice against Gelatine which existedin former years was doubtless caused by persons unacquaintedwith its qualities using too large a quantity,and producing a jelly hard, tough, and unpalatable,which compared very unfavourably with the delicatejellies they had been accustomed to make fromcalves' feet, the delicacy of which arose from thesimple fact that the Gelatine derived from calves' feetis so weak that it is almost impossible to make thejellies too strong.

Persons accustomed to use Gelatine will know thatits "setting" power is very much affected by the[65]temperature. In the recipes contained in the followingpages the quantity of Gelatine named is that whichexperience has shown to be best suited to the averagetemperature of this country. In hot weather andforeign climates a little more Gelatine should beadded.

TO MAKE A QUART OF BRILLIANT JELLY.

Soak one ounce of Nelson's Opaque Gelatine in half-a-pintof cold water for two or three hours, and thenadd the same quantity of boiling water; stir untildissolved, and add the juice and peel of two lemons,with wine and sugar sufficient to make the wholequantity one quart; have ready the white and shell ofan egg, well beaten together, or a packet of Nelson'sAlbumen, and stir these briskly into the jelly; boil fortwo minutes without stirring it; remove from the fire,allow it to stand two minutes, and strain through aclose flannel bag. Let it be on the point of settingbefore putting into the mould.

AN ECONOMICAL JELLY.

For general family use it is not necessary to clearjelly through the bag, and a quart of excellent jellycan be made as follows: Soak one ounce of Nelson'sGelatine in half-a-pint of cold water for two or threehours, then add a 3d. packet of Nelson's CitricAcid and three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar;pour on half-a-pint of boiling water and half-a-pintof sherry, orange or other wine (cold), and addone-twelfth part of a bottle of Nelson's Essence of[66]Lemon; stir for a few minutes before pouring into themoulds.

The effect of citric acid in the above quantity is tomake the jelly clearer. When this is not of consequence,a third of a packet can be used, and sixounces of sugar. Wine can be omitted if desired,and water substituted for it. Ginger-beer makes anexcellent jelly for those who do not wish for wine,and hedozone is also very good.

JELLY WITH FRUIT.

This is an elegant sweetmeat, and with clear jellyand care in moulding, can be made by inexperiencedpersons, particularly if Nelson's Bottled Jelly is used.If the jelly is home-made the recipe for making a"quart of jelly" will be followed. When the jellyis on the point of setting, put sufficient into a coldmould to cover the bottom of it. Then place in thecentre, according to taste, any fine fruit you choose,a few grapes, cherries, strawberries, currants, anythingyou like, provided it is not too heavy to break thejelly. Put in another layer of jelly, and when it isset enough, a little more fruit, then fill up your mouldwith jelly, and let it stand for some hours.

RIBBON JELLY.

Soak one ounce of Nelson's Patent Gelatine inhalf-a-pint of cold water for twenty minutes, then addthe same quantity of boiling water. Stir until dissolved,and add the juice and peel of two lemons,with wine and sugar sufficient to make the whole[67]quantity one quart. Have ready the white and shellof an egg, well beaten together, and stir these brisklyinto the jelly; then boil for two minutes withoutstirring, and remove it from the fire; allow it tostand two minutes, then strain it through a closeflannel bag. Divide the jelly in two equal parts,leaving one pint of a yellow colour, and adding a fewdrops of prepared cochineal to colour the remaindera bright red. Put a small quantity of red jelly into amould previously soaked in cold water. Let this set,then pour in a small quantity of the pale jelly, andrepeat this until the mould is full, taking care thateach layer is perfectly firm before pouring in the other.Put it in a cool place, and the next day turn it out.Or, the mould may be partly filled with the yellowjelly, and when this is thoroughly set, fill up with thered.

Ribbon jelly and jelly of two colours can be madein any pretty fancy mould (there are many to be hadfor the purpose); of course one colour must alwaysbe perfectly firm before the other is put in, or theeffect would be spoilt by the two colours running intoeach other. Ribbon jelly can be made with two kindsof Nelson's Bottled Jelly. The Sherry will be usedfor the pale, and Cherry or Port Wine jelly for the redcolour. Thus an elegant jelly will be made in a fewminutes.

CLARET JELLY.

Take one ounce of Nelson's Patent Gelatine, soakfor twenty minutes in half-a-pint of cold water, then[68]dissolve. Add three-quarters of a pound of sugar, apot of red-currant jelly, and a bottle of good ordinaryclaret, and stir over the fire till the sugar is dissolved.Beat the whites and shells of three eggs, stir thembriskly into the preparation, boil for two minuteslonger, take it off the fire, and when it has stood fortwo minutes pass it through the bag. This should bea beautiful red jelly, and perfectly clear.

COFFEE JELLY.

Soak an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pintof water for an hour or more, dissolve it in a pint-and-a-halfof boiling water with half-a-pound of sugar.Clear it with white of egg, and run through a jelly-bagas directed for making "a quart of brilliant jelly."This done, stir in a tablespoonful, or rather more ifliked, of Allen and Hanbury's Café Vierge, which is avery fine essence of coffee. Or, instead of dissolvingthe Gelatine in water, use strong coffee.

COCOA JELLY.

Make half-a-pint of cocoa from the nibs, takingcare to have it clear. Soak half-an-ounce of Nelson'sGelatine in half-a-pint of water; add a quarter of apound of sugar, dissolve, and clear the jelly with thewhites and shells of two eggs in the usual way.Flavour with Nelson's Essence of Vanilla after thejelly has been through the bag.

When a clear jelly is not required, the cocoa canbe made of Schweitzer's Cocoatina, double the quantityrequired for a beverage being used. Mix this with half-an-ounceof Nelson's Gelatine and flavour with vanilla.[69]

ORANGES FILLED WITH JELLY.

Cut a small round from the stalk end of eachorange, and scoop out the inside. Throw the skinsinto cold water for an hour to harden them, drain,and when quite dry inside, half fill with pink jelly.Put in a cool place, and when the jelly is firm, fill upwith pale jelly or blanc-mange; set aside again, andcut into quarters before serving. Arrange with asprig of myrtle between each quarter. Use lemonsinstead of oranges if preferred.

ORANGE FRUIT JELLY.

Boil half-a-pound of lump sugar in a gill of wateruntil melted. Stir in half-an-ounce of Nelson'sGelatine previously soaked in a gill of cold water;when it is dissolved beat a little, and let it stand untilcold. Rub four lumps of sugar on the peel of twofine oranges, so as to get the full and delicate flavour;add this sugar with the juice of a lemon and sufficientorange juice strained to make half-a-pint to the above.Beat well together, and when on the point of setting,add the fruit of two oranges prepared as follows:Peel the oranges, cut away all the white you canwithout drawing the juice, divide the orange inquarters, take out seeds and all pith, and cut thequarters into three or four pieces. Mix these withthe jelly, which at once put into a mould, allowing itto stand a few hours before turning out.

APPLE JELLY.

Take one pound of apples, peel them with a sharpknife, cut them in two, take out the core, and cut thefruit into small pieces. Place the apples in a stewpan,[70]with three ounces of lump sugar, half-a-pint of water,a small teaspoonful of Nelson's Citric Acid, andsix drops of Nelson's Essence of Lemon. Put thestewpan on the fire, and boil the apples till theyare quite tender, stirring occasionally to preventthe fruit sticking to the bottom of the pan;or the apples can be steamed in a potato-steamer,afterwards adding lemon-juice and sugar. Soak anounce of Nelson's Gelatine in a gill of cold water,dissolve it, and when the apples are cooked to a pulp,place a hair sieve over a basin and rub the applesthrough with a wooden spoon; stir the melted Gelatineinto the apples, taking care that it is quitesmoothly dissolved. If liked, colour part of theapples by stirring in half a spoonful of cochinealcolouring.

Rinse a pint-and-a-half mould in boiling water, andthen in cold water; ornament the bottom of themould with pistachio nuts cut in small pieces, orpreserved cherries, according to taste. When on thepoint of setting put the apples into the mould, andif any part of the apples are coloured, fill the mouldalternately with layers of coloured and plain apples.Stand the mould aside in a cool place to set theapples, then turn out the jelly carefully on a dish,and send to table with cream whipped to a stiff froth.

LEMON SPONGE.

To an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine add one pintof cold water, let it stand for twenty minutes,then dissolve it over the fire, add the rind of two[71]lemons thinly pared, three-quarters of a pound oflump sugar, and the juice of three lemons; boil alltogether two minutes, strain it and let it remain tillnearly cold, then add the whites of two eggs wellbeaten, and whisk ten minutes, when it will becomethe consistence of sponge. Put it lightly into a glassdish immediately, leaving it in appearance as rocky aspossible.

This favourite sweetmeat is also most easily andsuccessfully made with Nelson's Lemon Sponge.Dissolve the contents of a tin in half-a-pint of boilingwater, let it stand until it is on the point of setting,then whip it until very white and thick.

If any difficulty is experienced in getting the LemonSponge out of the tin, set it in a saucepan of boilingwater for fifteen minutes. In cold weather also, shouldthe sponge be slow in dissolving, put it in a stewpanwith the boiling water and stir until dissolved; butdo not boil it. It is waste of time to begin whippinguntil the sponge is on the point of setting. A gill ofsherry may be added if liked, when the whipping ofthe sponge is nearly completed. Put the sponge intoa mould rinsed with cold water. It will be ready foruse in two or three hours. A very pretty effect isproduced by ornamenting this snow-white spongewith preserved barberries, or cherries, and a littleangelica cut into pieces to represent leaves.

STRENGTHENING JELLY.

Put one ounce each of sago, ground rice, pearlbarley, and Nelson's Gelatine—previously soaked in[72]cold water—into a saucepan, with two quarts of water;boil gently till the liquid is reduced one-half. Strainand set aside till wanted. A few spoonfuls of thisjelly may be dissolved in broth, tea, or milk. It isnourishing and easily digested.

DUTCH FLUMMERY.

To an ounce and a half of Nelson's Patent Gelatineadd a pint of cold water; let it steep, then pour itinto a saucepan, with the rinds of three lemons ororanges; stir till the Gelatine is dissolved; beat theyolk of three eggs with a pint of good raisin or whitewine, add the juice of the fruit, and three-quarters ofa pound of lump sugar. Mix the whole well together,boil one minute, strain through muslin, stir occasionallytill cold; then pour into moulds.

ASPIC JELLY.

Were it not for the trouble of making Aspic Jelly, itwould be more generally used than it is, for it givesnot only elegance but value to a number of colddishes. We have now the means of making this withthe greatest ease, rapidity, and cheapness. Soak anounce of Nelson's Gelatine in a pint of cold water,dissolve it in a pint of boiling water, add a largeteaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of French vinegar,and the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meatdissolved in a gill of boiling water. Wash the shell ofan egg before breaking it, beat up white and shell toa strong froth, and stir into the aspic. Let it come[73]slowly to the boil, and when it has boiled two minutes,let it stand for another two minutes, then strain througha flannel bag kept for the purpose. If a stiff aspic isrequired, use rather less water.

HOW TO MAKE A JELLY-BAG.

The very stout flannel called double-mill, used forironing blankets, is a good material for a jelly-bag.Take care that the seam of the bag be stitched twice,to secure the jelly against unequal filtration. The bagmay, of course, be made any size, but one of twelveor fourteen inches deep, and seven or eight across themouth, will be sufficient for ordinary use. The mostconvenient way of using the bag is to tie it upon ahoop the exact size of the outside of its mouth, andto do this tape should be sewn round it at equaldistances.

If there is no jelly-bag in a house, a good substitutemay be made thus: Take a clean cloth folded overcorner-ways, and sew it up one side, making it in theshape of a jelly-bag. Place two chairs back to back,then take the sewn-up cloth and hang it between thetwo chairs by pinning it open to the top bar of eachchair. Place a basin underneath the bag. Here isanother substitute: Turn a kitchen stool upside down,and tie a fine diaper broth napkin, previously rinsedin hot water, to the four legs, place a basin underneathand strain through the napkin.

CREAMS.

The careful housekeeper of modern times has beenaccustomed to class creams among the luxuries whichcan only be given on special occasions, both becausethey take so much time and trouble to make, andbecause the materials are expensive. It is, nevertheless,possible to have excellent creams made ona simple plan and at a moderate cost. Cream of asuperior kind is now everywhere to be had in jars,condensed milk answers well, and by the use ofNelson's Gelatine, and any flavouring or syrup, excellentcreams can be made. Our readers will findthat the method of the following recipes is simple, thecost moderate, and the result satisfactory. A hintwhich, if acted on, will save time and trouble, may begiven to inexperienced persons intending to makecreams similar to Lemon Cream, which is light andfrothy. Do not add the lemon-juice until the mixtureof cream and lemon-juice is nearly cold, and do notcommence whipping until it is on the point of setting.

Delicious and inexpensive creams can be made bydissolving any of Nelson's Tablet Jellies in half thequantity of water given in the directions for makingthe jelly, and adding cream, either plain or whipped,in the same way as directed for Orange Cream andCherry Cream.

LEMON CREAM.

Soak an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pintof milk, dissolve it in a pint of boiling milk with aquarter of a pound of lump sugar. When nearly cold,add a gill of lemon-juice and whisk the cream until itis light and sponge-like. Then stir in a gill of whippedcream, put into a mould, and let it stand for two orthree hours.

Or, dissolve a pint tablet of Nelson's Lemon TabletJelly in half-a-pint of hot water. When cool, add toit half-a-pint of cream, and whisk together until onthe point of setting, when mould it.

STRAWBERRY CREAM.

Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previouslysoaked in a gill of cold water, in a pint of hot milk.When it is so nearly cold as to be on the point ofsetting, add half-a-pint of strawberry syrup, and sufficientrose colouring to make it a delicate pink; whiskthe cream until it is light and frothy, stir in lightly agill of whipped cream, then mould it.

A good syrup can be made for this cream byputting half-a-pound of strawberry and half-a-poundof raspberry jam into half-a-pint of boiling water, and,after having well stirred it, rubbing it through a finesieve. The syrup should not be too sweet, and theaddition of the juice of one or two lemons, or a littlecitric acid, will be an advantage.

Creams, which have cochineal colouring in them,should not be put into tin moulds, as this metal turns[76]them of a mauve shade. Breton's Rose Colouring isrecommended, because it is prepared from vegetables,and is free from acid.

ORANGE CREAM.

Dissolve a pint tablet of Nelson's Orange TabletJelly in half-a-pint of hot water. When cool, mix withit half-a-pint of cream or milk, and whip together untilthe cream is on the point of setting.

IMITATION LEMON CREAM.

This will be found useful when cream is not to behad. Put the thin peel of two lemons into half-a-pintof boiling water, and when it has stood a little, dissolvehalf-a-pound of loaf sugar in it. When nearlycold, add three eggs, the yolks and whites well beatentogether, and the juice of the lemons. Strain this intoa stewpan, and stir until it is well thickened. Aftertaking from the fire, stir occasionally until cold, thenmix into it a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatinesoaked and dissolved in half a gill of water, alsonearly cold.

APRICOT CREAM.

Drain the juice from a tin of preserved apricots,add to it an equal quantity of water; make a syrupby boiling with this half-a-pound of lump sugar untilit begins to thicken; then put in the apricots andsimmer them gently for ten minutes. Drain awaythe syrup, and put both it and the fruit asideseparately for use as directed.

[77]Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previouslysoaked, in a quart of boiling milk lightly sweetened,and, when at the point of setting, put a teacupfulof it gently into a mould, then a layer of the apricots;wait a minute or two before putting in another cup ofcream, then fill up the mould with alternate layers offruit and cream. Let the cream stand some hoursbefore turning out, and when it is on its dish pourround it the syrup of apricots.

PINEAPPLE CREAM.

Drain the syrup from a tin of pineapple, boil itdown to half. Cut the best part of the pineappleinto neat little squares, pound the remainder, whichpress through a strainer. Make a custard with half-a-pintof milk and three yolks of eggs. Measure thequantity of syrup and fruit juice, and dissolveNelson's Gelatine in the proportion of half-an-ounceto a pint of it and custard together. Mix the gelatinewith the custard, then put in the pieces of pineapple,and when it is cold the syrup, the juice, and twotablespoonfuls of whipped cream. Have ready alittle of Nelson's Bottled Cherry or Port WineJelly melted in a fancy mould, which turn round sothat it adheres to the sides, and when the firstquantity is set, put in a little more. As the cream ison the point of setting, put it into the mould andallow it to stand until firm. When turned out,ornament the cream with the remainder of thebottled jelly lightly chopped.

PALACE CREAM.

Make a custard of three eggs and a pint-and-a-half[78]of milk sweetened, when it is ready dissolve in it anounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in half-a-pintof milk. When made, the quantity of custardshould be fully a pint-and-a-half, otherwise the creammay be too stiff. When the cream is cool, put a littleinto a mould, previously ornamented with glacécherries and little pieces of angelica to representleaves. The fruit is all the better if soaked in a littlebrandy, as are the cakes, but milk can be used forthese last. Put a portion of two ounces of sponge-cakesand one ounce of ratafias on the first layer ofcream, keeping it well in the centre, and then fill upthe mould with alternate layers of cakes and cream.When turned out, a little liqueur or any kind of syrupcan be poured round the cream.

FRUIT CREAM.

Strain the juice from a bottle of raspberries andcurrants on to three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar,boil up, then simmer for half-an-hour. Mix the fruitand a large tablespoonful of raspberry jam with thesyrup, and rub it through a hair sieve. DissolveNelson's Gelatine, in the proportion of half-an-ounceto a pint of the fruit, in a little water, stir welltogether. When cold put it into a border mould,and as soon as it is firm turn out and fill the centrewith a cream, which make with half-an-ounce ofNelson's Gelatine and three gills of milk, sweetened andflavoured with Nelson's Essence of Vanilla. Whiskuntil cool, when stir in a gill of whipped cream.

MANDARIN CREAM.

Dissolve half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, pre[79]viouslysoaked in half-a-pint of cold milk, in half-a-pintof sweetened boiling milk or cream. Dissolve apint bottle of Cherry Jelly as directed. When thelast is on the point of setting put a layer into a mould,then a layer of the cream, each of these about an inchdeep, and fill up the mould in this way. This quantityof material will make two handsome moulds, suitablefor a supper party.

BLANC-MANGE.

To an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine add half-a-pint ofnew milk, let it soak for twenty minutes, boil two or threelaurel leaves in a pint of cream and half-a-pint of milk;when boiling pour over the soaked gelatine, stir it tillit dissolves, add four or five ounces of lump sugar anda little brandy if approved; strain it through muslin, stiroccasionally till it thickens, and then put it into moulds.

SOLID SYLLABUB.

Soak an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine twenty minutesin three-quarters of a pint of water, add the juice andpeel of two large lemons, a quarter of a pint of sherry,five or six ounces of lump sugar; boil the above twominutes, then pour upon it a pint of warm cream, stirit quickly till it boils, then strain and stir till it thickens,and pour it into moulds.

CHARLOTTE RUSSE.

Line a plain mould at the bottom and sides withsponge finger-biscuits, fill it with strawberry cream, orcream made as directed in the several recipes. Ifthe weather is warm it will be necessary to place theCharlotte on ice for an hour or two, but in the winterit will turn out without this. The biscuits for a[80]Charlotte Russe should be made quite straight, andin arranging them in the mould they should lapslightly one over the other.

BADEN-BADEN PUDDING.

Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previouslysoaked in half-a-pint of cold milk, in a pint-and-a-halfof boiling milk; when it is nearly cold stir into it anounce of rice, well boiled or baked; flavour thepudding to taste, and when on the point of settingput it into a mould and let it stand for two or threehours; serve plain or with stewed fruit.

CHERRY CREAM.

Dissolve a pint tablet of Nelson's Cherry TabletJelly in half-a-pint of hot water. When cool, mix withit half-a-pint of cream or milk, and whip togetheruntil the cream is on the point of setting.

VELVET CREAM.

Soak three-quarters of an ounce of Nelson's PatentGelatine in half-a-pint of sherry or raisin wine, thendissolve it over the fire, stirring all the time; rub therinds of two lemons with six ounces of lump sugar,add this, with the juice, to the hot solution, which isthen to be poured gently into a pint of cream; stirthe whole until quite cold, and then put into moulds.

This can be made with a pint of boiling milk, inwhich an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previouslysoaked in half-a-pint of cold milk, has been dissolved,and flavoured and sweetened.

ITALIAN CREAM.

Take three-quarters of an ounce of Nelson's PatentGelatine and steep it in half-a-pint of cold water;boil the rind of a lemon, pared thinly, in a pint ofcream; add the juice of the lemon and three tablespoonfulsof raspberry or strawberry syrup to thesoaked Gelatine; then pour the hot cream upon theabove ingredients, gently stirring the while. Sweetento taste, and add a drop or two of prepared cochineal.Whisk till the mixture is thick, then pour into moulds.

CHEESE AND MACARONI CREAM.

Boil two ounces of macaroni, in water slightly salted,until tender, when drain; cut it into tiny rings, andput it into a stewpan with half-a-pint of milk or cream,keeping it hot on the stove without boiling for half-an-hour.Soak and dissolve half-an-ounce of Nelson'sGelatine in half-a-pint of milk, and when this and themacaroni are cold, stir together, add two ounces ofgrated Parmesan cheese, with salt and cayenne pepperto taste. Stir occasionally until the cream is on thepoint of setting, when mould it. Should the cream beabsorbed by the macaroni, more must be added tobring the whole quantity of liquid to one pint. Ifpreferred, rice well boiled or baked in milk, or vermicellipaste, can be substituted for the macaroni.

COFFEE CREAM.

Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously[82]soaked in half-a-pint of cold milk, in a pint-and-a-halfof boiling milk with two ounces of sugar; stir insufficient strong Essence of Coffee to flavour it, andwhen on the point of setting put it into a mould.

CHOCOLATE CREAM.

Boil a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar in a pint ofmilk. Dissolve in it an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine,previously soaked in half-a-pint of cold milk, and stirinto it three teaspoonfuls of Schweitzer's Cocoatina,dissolved in half-a-pint of boiling milk. Beat until onthe point of setting, and put the cream into a mould.A few drops of Nelson's Essence of Vanilla can beadded with advantage.

CHARTREUSE OF ORANGES.

Peel four or five oranges, carefully take out thedivisions which put on a hair sieve in a cool place todrain all night. Melt a little Nelson's BottledOrange Jelly, pour it into a saucer and dip in eachpiece of orange, which arrange in a close circle roundthe bottom of a small pudding-basin. Keep thethick part of the orange downwards in the first row,in the next put them the reverse way. Continuethus until the basin is covered. Pour in a little ofthe melted jelly, then of cream, made by mixing aquarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine soaked anddissolved in a gill of milk, into a gill of rich cream,sweetened. Fill up the basin with alternate layers ofjelly and cream, allowing each of these to set beforethe other is put in, making the jelly layers last. The[83]Chartreuse will turn out easily if the jelly is gentlypressed from the basin all round. Garnish with twocolours of Nelson's Bottled Jelly lightly chopped.

FIG CREAM.

Preserved green figs are used for this cream—thoseof Fernando Rodrigues are excellent. Place the figsin a plain mould, and pour in gently, when on thepoint of setting, a cream made with a pint of creamand half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, and lightlysweetened. When the cream is turned out of themould, pour round it the syrup in which the figs werepreserved.

CHAMPAGNE CREAM.

Although this is properly a jelly, when well madeit eats so rich that it is usually called cream. It ischiefly used in cases of illness, when it is desirableto administer champagne in the form of jelly. Soakhalf-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in a gill of coldwater, dissolve it in a stewpan with one or two ouncesof sugar, according as the jelly is required sweet orotherwise. When cool, add three gills of champagneand two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, whip until itis beginning to set and is light and frothy; put intoa mould, and it will be ready for use in two hours,if put in a cold place.

ORANGE MOUSSE.

Rub the zest of the peel of two oranges on to aquarter of a pound of lump sugar, which boil withhalf-a-gill of water to a thick syrup. Beat the juice ofthree large oranges with two whole eggs, and having[84]whisked them slightly, add the syrup and Nelson'sGelatine, dissolved, in the proportion of half-an-ounceto a pint of liquid. Whisk the mixture over a saucepanof hot water until it is warm, then place thebasin in another with cold water and continue whiskinguntil it is beginning to set, when put it into a fancymould.

STRAWBERRY TRIFLE.

Put a layer of strawberry jam at the bottom of atrifle dish. Dissolve a half-pint tablet of Nelson'sRaspberry Jelly, and when it is set break it up andstrew it over the jam. Upon this lay sponge fingerbiscuits and ratafia cakes, and pour over just enoughnew milk to make them soft. Make a thick custard,flavoured with Nelson's Essence of Vanilla, and spreadit over the cakes. Finally place on the top a handsomequantity of cream, whisked with a little powdered sugarand flavoured with vanilla.

WHIPPED CREAM.

To half-a-pint of cream put a tablespoonful of finesifted sugar, add sufficient of any of Nelson's Essencesto give it a delicate flavour. With a whisk or wire spoon,raise a froth on the cream, remove this as soon as itrises, put it on a fine hair, or, still better, lawn sieve;repeat this process until the cream is used up. Shouldthe cream get thick in the whisking, add a very littlecold water. Put the sieve containing the whiskedcream in a basin and let it stand for some hours,which will allow it to become more solid and fit forsuch purposes as filling meringues.

CAKES.

The proper beating of the whites of the eggs isan important matter in cake-making. There are anumber of machines for this purpose, which are inturn eagerly adopted by inexperienced persons; butfor private use not one of them is comparable tohand-beating. When once the knack of beating eggsis acquired but little labour is needed to bring themto the right consistency; indeed, the most successfulresult is that which is the most rapidly attained. Thewhites of eggs for beating should be fresh, and shouldbe carefully separated from the yolks by passing andrepassing them in the two halves of the shell. It isbest to beat the whites immediately they are broken,but if this is not possible, they must be kept in acool place until wanted. If ice is at hand, it will befound advantageous to keep the eggs in it. In well-furnishedkitchens a copper beating-bowl is provided;it should not be tinned, as contact with this metal willblacken the eggs; for this reason, the whisk, if ofiron wire, should not be new. An earthenware bowlwith circular bottom, and sufficiently large to admitof a good stroke in beating, answers the purpose perfectlywell. A pinch of salt may be added to thewhites, and if an inexperienced beater finds themassume a granulated appearance, a little lemon-juicewill remedy it.

[86]Begin by beating gently, increasing the pace as theegg thickens. As it is the air mixing with the albumenof the eggs which causes them to froth, it is necessaryto beat them in a well-ventilated and cool place, sothat they may absorb as much air as possible.

If these simple and important conditions areobserved, the whites of a dozen eggs may be beatento the strongest point, without fatigue to the operator,in five minutes. When the whites are properly beatenthey should turn out of the bowl in one mass, and, afterstanding a little while, will not show signs of returningto their original state.

In order more easily to make cakes and biscuitsinto the composition of which almonds and cocoa-nutenter largely, manufacturers supply both of thesepounded or desiccated. It is, however, preferable toprepare the former fresh, and much time and troublemay be saved in passing almonds through Kent'sCombination Mincer, 199, High Holborn, instead oflaboriously pounding them in a mortar. The result is,besides, more satisfactory, the paste being smootherthan it can otherwise be made in domestic practice.

Cakes of the description for which we now giverecipes cannot be made well unless the materialsare properly prepared and thoroughly beaten. It isclear that if eggs are not beaten to such a consistencythat they will bear the weight of the other ingredients,the result must be a heavy cake.

Currants for cakes, after they have been washedand picked, should be scalded, in order to swell themand make them more tender.

[87]Put the currants into a basin, pour boiling waterover them, cover the basin with a plate; after theyhave stood a minute, drain away the water and throwthe fruit on a cloth to absorb the moisture. Put thecurrants on a dish or plate in a very cool oven,turning occasionally until thoroughly dry; dust a littleflour over them, and they will be ready for use.

Castor sugar for cakes works more easily when it isfine. For superior cakes raw sugar will not answer.

POUND CAKE.

One pound fresh butter, one pound Vienna flour,six eggs (or seven, if small), one pound castor sugar,quarter of a pound almonds cut small, half-a-poundof currants or sultanas, three ounces of candied peel,a few drops of essence of ratafia.

The butter to be beaten to a cream. If it is hardwarm the pan. Add the sugar gradually; next theeggs, which must previously be well beaten up; thensift in the flour; and, last of all, put in fruit, almonds,and flavouring.

This cake takes about half-an-hour to mix, as allthe ingredients must be well beaten together with aniron spoon from left to right. Bake in small tins, forabout forty minutes, in a moderate oven.

PLAIN POUND CAKE.

Half-a-pound of fresh butter, three eggs, one poundof Vienna flour, one pound of castor sugar, a quarterof a pound of almonds cut small, half-a-pound of[88]currants, three ounces of candied peel, a few drops ofessence of ratafia.

Beat the butter to a cream, from left to right, andmix in the sugar gradually. Beat the eggs up, andmix them with half-a-pint of new milk; stir into thebutter; then add the flour; and, last of all, the fruit.

SAVOY SPONGE CAKE.

Beat half-a-pound of finely sifted sugar with theyolks of four eggs until you have a thick batter,stir in lightly six ounces of fine dry sifted flour, thenthe whites of the eggs beaten to a very strong froth.Have ready a tin which has been lightly buttered,and then covered with as much sifted sugar as willadhere to it. Pour in the cake mixture, taking carethe tin is not more than half full, and bake for half-an-hour.

LEMON SAVOY SPONGE.

Half-a-pound of loaf sugar, rub some of the lumpson the peel of two lemons, so as to get all the flavourfrom them; dissolve the sugar in half a gill of boilingwater; add the juice of the lemons, or one of them ifa large size, and beat with the yolks of four eggs untilvery white and thick; stir in a quarter of a pound offine flour, beat the whites of the eggs to a strongfroth, and mix as thoroughly but as lightly as possible;butter and sift sugar over a mould, nearly fillit with cake mixture, and bake at dark yellow paperheat for thirty minutes.

MACAROONS.

Beat up a packet of Nelson's Albumen withthree teaspoonfuls of cold water to a strong froth, mixin half-a-pound of finely-sifted sugar and two ounceseach of pounded sweet and bitter almonds. Floura baking-sheet, and lay on it sheets of wafer-paper,which can be bought at the confectioner's, anddrop on to them at equal distances, a small pieceof the paste. Bake in a moderate oven for tenminutes, or until the macaroons are crisp and of agolden colour. When done cut round the wafer-paperwith a knife, and put the cakes on a sieveto dry.

In following recipes for this class of cake somejudgment is required in the choice of the sugar, andthe result will vary greatly according as this is of theright sort, or otherwise. A little more or less sugarmay be required, and only practice can make perfectin this matter. As a general direction, it may begiven that the sugar must be of the finest quality,and be very finely sifted, but not flour-like.

COCOA-NUT CAKES.

Beat up a packet of Nelson's Albumen with threeteaspoonfuls of cold water to a strong froth, mix withit a quarter of a pound of finely sifted sugar, and twoounces of Edwards' Desiccated Cokernut. Put sheetsof wafer-paper on a baking-tin, drop small pieces of thecake mixture on to it, keeping them in a rocky shape.[90]Bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes, or untilcrisp.

CHOCOLATE CAKES.

Whisk a packet of Nelson's Albumen with threeteaspoonfuls of cold water to the strongest possiblefroth, mix in half-a-pound of finely sifted sugar, twoteaspoonfuls of Schweitzer's Cocoatina, and six dropsof Nelson's Essence of Vanilla; sift paper thicklywith sugar, and drop small teaspoonfuls of the mixtureat equal distances on it, allowing space for thecakes to spread a little. Bake for ten minutes in amoderate oven.

COCOA-NUT ROCK.

Boil half-a-pound of loaf sugar in a gill of water untilit is beginning to return again to sugar, when cool adda packet of Nelson's Albumen whisked to a strongfroth with three teaspoonfuls of water, and stir in aquarter of a pound of Edwards' Desiccated Cokernut.Spread the mixture, not more than an inch thick, ina greased pudding-tin, and place in a cool oven todry. When done cut in neat squares, and keep intins in a cool, dry place.

SUGAR ICING.

No icing can be successfully done unless the sugaris of the finest kind, perfectly white, and so finelysifted as hardly to be distinguished by the eye frompotato-flour. Such sugar can now generally be pro[91]curedof the best grocers at a moderate price. Theprocess of sifting the sugar at home is somewhatslow and troublesome, but by so doing a perfectlypure article is secured. After being crushed the sugarshould be passed through sieves of varying fineness,and, finally, through one made for the purpose, orfailing this, very fine muslin will answer. When thesugar has been sifted at home, and it is certain thereis no admixture of any kind with it, a small quantityof "fécule de pommes de terre" (potato-flour) may beadded; it reduces sweetness, and does not interferewith the result of the process. If the sugar is notsifted very fine a much longer time will be required tomake the icing, and in the end it will not look sosmooth as it ought to do. Confectioners use pyroligneousacid instead of lemon-juice, and there is noobjection to it in small quantities. To make the icing,beat up a packet of Nelson's Albumen dissolved withthree teaspoonfuls of cold water, work in by degreesone pound of fine icing sugar, adding a teaspoonful oflemon-juice or a few drops of pyroligneous acid, whichwill assist in keeping the icing white, or a slight tingeof stone-blue will have the same effect. If potato-flouris used, mix it thoroughly with the sugar before addingit to the white of egg. A little more or less sugarmay be required, as the result is in great measuredetermined by the method of the operator; and whenthe paste is perfectly smooth, and will spread withoutrunning, it is fit for use. For icing large cakes confectionersuse a stand which has a revolving board, sothat cakes can conveniently be turned about; failing[92]this, an ordinary board or inverted plate can be madeto answer. As soon as the icing is spread on the cakeit must be dried in an oven with the door open. Itis sometimes found sufficient to keep the cake in ahot room for some hours. If too great heat is usedthe icing will crack.

ALMOND PASTE.

Blanch one pound of sweet and two ounces ofbitter almonds, pound them in a mortar, adding alittle rose-water as you go on, to prevent oiling; andwhen all the almonds are reduced to a perfectlysmooth paste, mix them with an equal weight of icingsugar. Moisten the paste with a packet of Nelson'sAlbumen dissolved in three teaspoonfuls of coldwater, and spread it evenly on the cake, allowingit to become dry and firm before spreading the icingover it. This paste can be used for makingseveral kinds of cakes and sweetmeats, and withoutthe Albumen can be kept in bottles for sometime. Almond paste can be made from bitteralmonds which have been infused in spirit to makean extract for flavouring, and in this case no sweetalmonds will be required.

BEVERAGES.

Among the most useful preparations which have everbeen introduced to the public for the immediate productionof delicious beverages, areNelson's BottledJellies. These beverages are highly approved forordinary use at luncheon and dinner, as well as forafternoon and evening entertainments, and have aspecial value for invalids, as they contain nourishmentand are at the same time very refreshing.When required for use, dissolve a bottle of the jelly,and mix with it five times its bulk of water, thebeverage can then be used either hot or cold; if instanding it should be slightly thickened it will only benecessary briskly to stir it with a spoon. Lemon,orange, and cherry jelly, with the addition of water asdirected, will be found superior to any other beverageof the kind, and specially excellent for children'sparties.

Claret Cup, made merely with seltzer water, claret,andPort Wine Jelly, will be found superior to theordinary preparation. A little sugar may be added ifdesired. To a bottle of claret and a pint of seltzer-wateruse a half-pint bottle ofPort Wine Jelly, stirbriskly until well mixed, put in a sprig of balm andborage, three thick slices of cucumber; place the vessel[94]containing the claret cup covered over on ice for anhour; strain out the herbs before serving.

Badminton Cup is made with Burgundy, in thesame way as the above, with the addition of a bottleofOrange Jelly.

Champagne Cup requires equal quantities of thewine and seltzer-water, with a bottle ofOrangeJelly.

Cider Cup is made with a pint and a half of cider,a bottle of soda-water, and a bottle of eitherOrange,Lemon, orSherry Jelly.

Cherry Cup.—Half-a-pint of claret, a quart ofsoda-water, and a half-pint bottle ofCherry Jelly.

MULLED PORT WINE.

Dissolve a bottle of Port Wine Jelly and add to itfour times its bulk of boiling water with a little nutmeg,and, if liked, a crushed clove.

LEMONADE.

Half-a-teaspoonful of Nelson's Citric Acid dissolvedin a quart of water, with a sliced lemon andsweetened with sugar, forms a good lemonade, andis a cooling and refreshing drink. A small pinch ofthe Citric Acid dissolved in a tumbler of water witha little sugar and a pinch of bicarbonate of potash,makes an effervescing draught. These acidulateddrinks are exceedingly useful for allaying thirst; andas refrigerants in feverish and inflammatory complaintsthey are invaluable.

LEMONADE (A NEW RECIPE).

Dissolve three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugarand the contents of a threepenny packet of Nelson'sCitric Acid in a quart of boiling water; then add twoquarts of fresh cold water and one-twelfth part of abottle of Nelson's Essence of Lemon. The abovequantity of sugar may be increased or decreasedaccording to taste.

GINGERADE.

Crush an ounce of whole ginger, pour over it aquart of boiling water, cover the vessel, and let theinfusion stand until cold. (The Extract of Gingermay be used in place of this infusion). Strain throughflannel; add a teaspoonful of Nelson's Citric Acid,six drops of Nelson's Lemon Flavouring, and a quarterof a pound of lump sugar; stir until dissolved, andthe Gingerade will be ready.

AN EXTRACT OF GINGER FOR FAMILY USE.

An Extract of Ginger made as follows is mostuseful for family purposes, and can be substituted forthe infusion in Gingerade. Crush half-a-pound offine whole ginger in the mortar, or cut into smallpieces. Put into a bottle with half-a-pint of unsweetenedgin, let it stand for a month, shaking itoccasionally, then drain it off into another bottle,allowing it to stand until it has become clear, whenit will be fit for use.

LEMON SYRUP.

Boil a pound of fine loaf sugar in a pint-and-a-halfof water. Remove all scum as it rises, and continueboiling gently until the syrup begins to thicken andassumes a golden tinge, then add a pint of strainedlemon-juice or a packet of Nelson's Citric Acid dissolvedin water, and allow both to boil together forhalf-an-hour. Pour the syrup into a jug, to each pintadd one-twelfth part of a bottle of Nelson's Essenceof Lemon, and when cold bottle and cork well.

The juice of Seville oranges may be made into asyrup in the same way as that of lemons, or lemon andorange juice may be used in equal quantities. Thesesyrups are useful for making summer drinks, and forinvalids as lemonade or orangeade.

MILK BEVERAGE.

A very agreeable and useful beverage is made bydissolving a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatinein a pint of milk. A spoonful of cream can, if preferred,be used with a bottle of soda-water. Forinvalids, this beverage can be used instead of tea orcoffee, and may be preferable in many cases onaccount of the nourishment it contains; it will alsobe found an excellent substitute, taken hot, for wine-whey,or posset, as a remedy for a cold. For summeruse, Milk Beverage is delicious, and may be flavouredwith raspberry or strawberry syrup. If on standing itshould thicken, it will only be necessary briskly tobeat it up with a spoon.

CITRIC ACID.

This acid exists in the juice of many fruits, such asthe orange, currant, and quince, but especially in thatof the lemon. It is chiefly made from the concentratedjuice of lemons, imported from Sicily andSouthern Italy, and which, after undergoing certainmethods of preparation, yields the crystals termedCitric Acid. These crystals may be used for all thepurposes for which lemon-juice is employed. In themanufacture of the Citric Acid now offered to thepublic by Messrs. G. Nelson, Dale, and Co., only thepure juice of the lemon is used.

ESSENCE OF LEMON.

This well-known essence is extracted from the littlecells visible in the rind of lemons, by submittingraspings of the fruit to pressure. The greater portionof the oil of lemons sold in England is imported fromPortugal, Italy, and France. It is very frequentlyadulterated with oil of turpentine. In order to presentthe public with a perfectly pure commodity, G. Nelson,Dale, and Co. import their Essence of Lemon directfrom Sicily, and from a manufacturer in whom theyhave the fullest confidence.

Nelson's Essence of Lemon is sold in graduatedbottles, eightpence each, each bottle containingsufficient for twelve quarts of jelly.

MACARONI, ETC.

We now give recipes for a few useful little dishes, chieflyof macaroni, which can be had at such a price as tobring it within the reach of all classes. English-mademacaroni can be bought at fourpence, and even less,the pound, and the finest Italian at sixpence. TheNaples, or pipe-macaroni, is the most useful forfamilies, and the Genoa, or twisted, for high-classdishes. The English taste is in favour of macaroniboiled soft, and in order to make it so, many cookssoak it. But this is not correct, and it is not at allnecessary to soak macaroni. If kept boiling insufficient water, the macaroni requires no attention—ebullitionprevents it sticking to the saucepan.

Although we give several ways of finishing macaroni,it is excellent when merely boiled in water with salt,as in the first recipe, eaten as an accompaniment tomeat, or with stewed fruit.

MACARONI WITH CHEESE.

Throw a quarter of a pound of macaroni brokeninto pieces an inch long, into three pints of boilingwater, with a large pinch of salt. The saucepanshould be large, or the water will rise over when themacaroni boils fast, which it should do for twenty ortwenty-five minutes. When done, strain the macaronithrough a colander, put it back into the saucepan[99]with an ounce of fresh butter, a small pinch of whitepepper and of salt, if necessary, and shake it over thefire for a minute or two. Take the saucepan off thefire, and stir into the macaroni two ounces or more,if liked, of grated Parmesan cheese. Serve immediatelywith crisp dry toast, cut in neat pieces. Ifnot convenient to use Parmesan, a mild dry Englishor American cheese will answer very well. Somecooks prefer, when the macaroni is boiled, to puta fourth part of it on to a hot dish, then to strewover it a fourth part of the grated cheese, and so ontill all of both are used, cheese, of course, coveringthe top.

MACARONI CHEESE.

Boil and drain the macaroni, mix with a quarter ofa pound an ounce of butter, and two ounces of gratedcheese; pepper or cayenne pepper and salt to taste.Put the macaroni in a dish and strew over it sufficientgrated cheese to cover it up, run a little dissolvedbutter over the top, and put it in the oven till it is abright-yellow colour; serve quickly.

MACARONI WITH BACON.

Boil two ounces of streaky bacon, cut it into diceor mince it, stir it into a quarter of a pound ofmacaroni boiled as for macaroni cheese: if liked, adda few drops of vinegar, pepper, and salt, and servevery hot.

MACARONI WITH ONIONS.

Boil the macaroni as above, mix with it two or threeonions sliced and fried a delicate brown, add a fewspoonfuls of gravy, stir over the fire for a few minutesand serve.

STEWED MACARONI.

Throw a quarter of a pound of macaroni into threepints of boiling water with a teaspoonful of salt, andlet it boil for twenty minutes. Drain in a colander,then put it into a stewpan with half a tin of Nelson'sExtract of Meat dissolved in half-a-pint of water, andstir over the fire for five minutes. Take it off thefire and stir in one ounce of grated cheese, pepperand salt to taste.

MACARONI WITH TOMATOES.

Prepare the macaroni as in the above recipe, putit into a stewpan with a small piece of butter and ateacupful of tomato sauce, or a small bottle of conserveof tomatoes, and stir briskly over the fire forfive minutes.

SWEET MACARONI.

Boil the macaroni as for the other dishes, but withonly a pinch of salt, until tender, when drained putinto a stewpan with a gill of milk to each two ounces,and two ounces of sifted lump sugar. Any flavouringmay be used, but perhaps there is nothing betterthan grated lemon-peel, and for those who like it,powdered cinnamon or grated nutmeg. Stir over the[101]fire until all the milk is absorbed; a little cream is,of course, an improvement. For those who do notlike milk, the juice of a lemon, or a little sherry, maybe substituted, and for a superior dish vanilla can beused for flavouring.

BOILED CHEESE.

Put four tablespoonfuls of beer into a small saucepan,shred into it a quarter of a pound of good newcheese, and stir briskly over the fire until all is dissolvedand is on the point of boiling, then take itoff instantly, for, if the cheese is allowed to boil, itwill become tough. Have ready slices of toastedbread, spread the cheese on it, and serve as quicklyas possible.

LES CANAPÉS AU PARMESAN.

Take the crumb of a French roll, cut it into roundsa quarter of an inch thick, put them into a wirefrying-basket, immerse in hot fat, and crisp the breadinstantly. Throw it on to paper, dry, and sprinkleover each piece a thick layer of grated Parmesancheese, pepper, and salt. Put the canapés in a Dutchoven before a clear fire, just to melt the cheese, andserve immediately they are done.

RICE WITH PARMESAN CHEESE.

Boil a quarter of a pound of Patna rice in waterwith salt; drain it, toss it up in a stewpan with twoounces of fresh butter, and a pinch of cayenne[102]pepper. Put a quarter of the rice on a hot dish,strew over it equally an ounce of grated Parmesancheese, then put another portion of rice and cheeseuntil all is used. Serve immediately.

SCALLOPED EGGS.

Take a cupful of finely-sifted bread-crumbs, moistenthem with a little cold milk, cream, or gravy, andseason nicely with pepper and salt. Put a thin layerof the moistened crumbs on a lightly-buttered dish,cut two hard eggs into slices, and dip each piece in verythick well-seasoned white sauce, or Nelson's Extractof Meat dissolved in a little water, so as to glaze theeggs. Having arranged the slices of egg neatly onthe layer of moistened bread-crumbs, cover themwith another layer of it, and on the top strewthickly some pale gold-coloured raspings. Bake ina moderate oven for ten minutes. If potatoes areliked, they make a nice substitute for bread-crumbs.Take some mashed potatoes, add to them a spoonfulof cream or gravy, and proceed as with bread-crumbs.Serve gravy made of Nelson's Extract of Meat withthis dish.

SCOTCH WOODCOCK.

Melt a small piece of butter the size of a nut in astewpan, break into it two eggs, with a spoonful ofmilk or gravy, and pepper and salt, stir round quicklyuntil the eggs begin to thicken, keep the yolks wholeas long as you can. When finished, pour on to a[103]buttered toast, to which has been added a little essenceof anchovy or anchovy paste, and serve.

MUSHROOMS WITH CREAM SAUCE.

Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, mix inthe yolks of two eggs lightly beaten, the juice of alemon, and a pinch of pepper and salt, stir this overthe fire until thickened. Have ready half-a-pint ofplain butter sauce, and mix all gradually together,with a small tin of champignons, or about the samequantity of fresh mushrooms chopped and stewedgently for ten minutes in a little broth or milk.Stir them with the liquor in which they have stewedinto the sauce, and let them stand for a few minutes,then spread the mixture on to neat slices of toastedbread. The sauce must be a good thickness, so thatit will not run off the toast, and care must be takenin the first process not to oil the butter or make thesauce lumpy.

TO BOIL RICE (A BLACK MAN'S RECIPE).

As rice is so often badly cooked, we make noapology for giving the black man's celebrated recipe.Although he does not recommend a little salt in thewater, we think that a small quantity should alwaysbe used, even when the rice has to be served as asweet dish. "Wash him well, much wash in coldwater, rice flour, make him stick. Water boil allready, very fast. Shove him in; rice can't burn,water shake him too much. Boil quarter of an hour[104]or little more. Rub one rice in thumb and finger;if all rub away him quite done. Put rice in colander,hot water run away. Pour cup of cold water on him,put back in saucepan, keep him covered near thefire, then rice all ready. Eat him up."

TO MINCE VEGETABLES.

Peel the onion or turnip, put it on the board, cutit first one way in slices, not quite through, lest itshould fall to pieces, then cut it in slices the otherway, which will produce long cubes. Finally turnthe onion on its side and cut through, when it willfall into dice-like pieces. The inconvenience andsometimes positive pain caused to the eyes bymincing or chopping the onions on a board is thusobviated, and a large quantity can be quickly preparedin the above way.

HINTS ON HOUSEKEEPING.

How many people are crying, "How can we save?Where can we retrench? Shall the lot fall on thehouse-furnishing, or the garden, or the toilet, or thebreakfast or the dinner table? Shall we do with oneservant less, move into a cheaper neighbourhood, orinto a smaller house? No, we cannot make anysuch great changes in our way of life. There are theboys and girls growing up; we must keep up appearancesfor their sakes. We remember the old proverbthat, 'however bad it may be to be poor, it is muchworse to look poor.'" Yet, although, for manyreasons, it is often most difficult to retrench on alarge scale, there are people who find it easier, forinstance, to put down the carriage than to see thatthe small outgoings of housekeeping are more dulyregulated. It is seldom, indeed, that a wife canassist her husband save by lightening his expenses byher prudence and economy. Too many husbands,nowadays, can vouch for the truth of the old saying,"A woman can throw out with a spoon faster than aman can throw in with a shovel." The prosperity ofa middle-class home depends very much on what issaved, and the reason that this branch of a woman'sbusiness is so neglected is that it is very difficult andvery troublesome.

[106]"Take care of your pence and the pounds will takecare of themselves," is a maxim that was much in usewhen we were young. Nowadays it is more fashionableto speak of this kind of thing as "penny wiseand pound foolish." Looking to the outgoings of penceis voted slow work, and it is thought fine to show alanguid indifference to small savings. "Such a fussover a pennyworth of this or that, it's not worth while."Yes, but it is not that particular pennyworth which isalone in question, there is the principle involved—thegreat principle of thrift—which must underlie all goodgovernment. The heads of households little think ofwhat evils they perpetuate when they shut their eyes towasteful practices, because it is easier to bear the costthan to prevent waste.

The young servant trained under one careless howshe uses, or rather misuses, that which is entrusted toher, carries in her turn the wasteful habits she haslearned into another household, and trains others in acontempt for thrifty ways, until the knowledge of howto do things at once well and economically is entirelylost.

We often hear it urged that it is bad for the mindof a lady to be harassed by the petty details of smallsavings, and that if she can afford to let things goeasily she should not be so harassed. But underno circumstances must any mistress of a householdpermit habitual waste in such matters. When theestablishment is so large as to be to a great extentremoved from the immediate supervision of themistress, all she can do is to keep a careful watch[107]over every item of expenditure, and by every meansin her power to let her servants feel that it isto their interest as well as to her own to keepwithin due bounds. A good cook is always a goodmanager. She makes many a meal of what an inferiorcook would waste. The housekeeper shouldtherefore insist on having good cooking at a reasonablecost, and never keep a cook who does not makethe most of everything. In a large household amistress cannot look after the sifting of cinders, butshe can check her coal bills, and by observation findout in what department the waste is going on. Itmay not be possible to pay periodical visits to thegas-meter to see if the tap is turned on to the fullwhen such force is not necessary, but she can fromquarter to quarter compare notes, or have fixed, whereit is easy for her to get at it, one of the gas-regulatorsnow in use. And thus, by the exercise of judiciouscontrol and supervision, the guiding mind of the mistresswill make itself felt in every department ofthe household without any undue worry to herself.The mistress of a small household who has thingsmore under her immediate control, and whose income,no less than her sense of moral obligation,obliges her to look carefully after the outgoings,need not be told what a trial it is to be constantlyon the watch to prevent waste. Probably she iscompelled to leave a certain quantity of stores forgeneral use; indeed, we doubt very much if there isanything saved by the daily giving out of ounces andspoonfuls of groceries, for if a servant is disposed to[108]be wasteful, she will be equally so with the small asthe larger quantity.

What perpetual worry is caused by seeing how soapis left in the water until it is so soft as to have lost halfits value! How many pence go in most householdsin that way every week, we wonder!

The scrubbing-brush also is left in water withthe soap. A fairly good brush costs at least twoshillings, and as one so treated only lasts half theproper time you may safely calculate that a shilling issoon wasted in that way. Brushes of all sorts are, asa rule, most carelessly used, and left about anyhowinstead of being hung up. How much loss there isin a year in the careless use of knives and plate!Whenever possible both of these get into the handsof the cook. Her own tools from neglect or misusehave become blunt or worse, and she takes thebest blade and the plated or silver spoon whenever shehas a chance.

The plate gets thrown in a heap into an earthenwarebowl to be bruised and scratched. The knivesare either put insufficiently wiped through the cleaner,which is thus spoiled and made fit rather to dirty thanclean knives, or they are left lying in hot water tohave the handles loosened and discoloured.

Probably jars, tin boxes, and canisters are providedin sufficient quantity to put away and keepstores properly. But for all that, as it would seem ina most ingenious manner, loss and waste are contrived.Raw sugar is kept in the paper until it rots through it.Macaroni, rice, and such things are left a prey to[109]mice or insects. The vinegar and sauce bottles standwithout the corks. Delicate things, which soon losetheir fine aroma, as tea, coffee, and spices, are kept inuncovered canisters: the lid is first left off, then mislaid.The treacle jar stands open for stray fingersand flies to disport themselves therein. Capers areput away uncovered with vinegar, and when nextwanted are found to be mouldy. Perhaps the juiceof a lemon has been used; the peel, instead of beingpreserved, is thrown away, or left lying about tillvalueless. Herbs, which should have been at oncedried and sifted, are hid away in some corner tobecome flavourless and dirty, and so on with everykind of store and provision.

It is impossible to calculate how many penniesare lost daily, in a large number of houses, by theabsolute waste of pieces of bread left to mould orthrown out because trouble to utilise them cannotbe taken. Whoever thinks anything of the smallquantities of good beer left in the jug; it is so mucheasier to throw it away than put it in a bottle? Orwho will be at the trouble of boiling up that "drop"of milk, which, nevertheless, cost a penny, and wouldmake, or help to make, a small pudding for the nextday? Then, again, how many bits of fat and suetare lost because it is too much trouble to melt downthe first, and preserve the other by very simple andeffectual means?

Butter in summer is allowed to remain melting inthe paper in which it is sent in, or perhaps it is puton a plate, to which some pennyworths of the costly[110]stuff will stick and be lost. One would think it wouldbe as easy at once to put it into cold salted water, ifbetter means of cooling could not be used.

If we pause here, it is not because we haveexhausted the list of things most woefully wasted,mainly from want of thought, but because we havenot space to enumerate more of them. We can onlyadd that the importance of small household savingscannot well be overrated, both because of the principleinvolved and because of the substantial sum they representtogether. There is no need in any householdfor even a penny a day to be wasted; and yet if welook closely into things, how much money value islost daily in some one or other of the ways we havementioned. In the course of the year, the dailypennies mount up to many pounds, and we are surethat it is much safer once in a way lavishly to spendthe shillings than to be habitually careless of the outgoingsof the pence.

Although it is not necessary that the mistress of ahousehold who can afford to keep servants shouldherself do the cooking, or spend much time in herkitchen, it is absolutely necessary that she shouldunderstand the best methods, and know how everythingshould be done.

Many people will say that it is unbecoming forwomen to begourmands; we agree with them, andthat it is equally unbecoming for men to be so. Butto be agourmet is another thing; and we ought notto lose sight of the fact that food eaten with realenjoyment and the satisfaction which accompanies a[111]well-prepared meal, is greatly enhanced in value.Professor C. Voit has clearly pointed out, in hisexperiments and researches into diet, the greatvalue of palatable food as nourishment, and howindispensable is a certain variety in our meals."We think," he says, "we are only tickling thepalate, and that it is nothing to the stomach anddigestive organs whether food is agreeable to thepalate or not, since they will digest it, if it isdigestible at all. But it is not so indifferent afterall, for the nerves of the tongue are connectedwith other nerves and with nerve-centres, so thatthe pleasure of the palate, or some pleasure, at anyrate, even if it is only imagination, which can onlyoriginate in the central organ—the brain—often hasan active effect on other organs. This is a matter ofdaily experience. Without the secretion of gastricjuice the assimilation of nourishment would be impossible.If, therefore, some provocatives induce andincrease certain sensations and useful processes, theyare of essential value to health, and it is no badeconomy to spend something on them."

It is surely somewhat singular that Englishwomen,who have excelled in almost every other craft, shouldbe remarkable for their want of skill in cookery.They have not been dismayed by any difficulties inliterature, art, or science, and yet how few are thereamong us who can make a dish of porridge like aScotchwoman, or an omelette like a Frenchwoman!The fact would seem to be, that educated womenhaving disdained to occupy themselves either theo[112]reticallyor practically with cookery, those whoselegitimate business it has been have become indifferentalso. The whole aim of the modern British cookseems to be to save herself trouble, and she will giveas much time and thought to finding out ways ofdoing things in a slovenly manner as would go todoing them properly.

No doubt cooks have often so much work of otherkinds to do that they cannot give the necessary timeto cooking. In a case of this kind, the mistressshould herself give such help as she can, and bringup her daughters to help in the kitchen. People inmiddle-class life often expect the cook to do all thekitchen work, and frequently some of the house work.Of course, in small families, this is quite possible tobe done, and it is always best for servants, as forother people, to be fully employed. But in largefamilies it is impossible the cooking can be properlydone, when the cook is harassed by so many otheroccupations. Thus, because it takes less time andattention than cooking smaller dishes, huge pieces ofmeat are roasted or boiled daily, and the leg-of-muttonstyle of dietary is perpetuated—declared tobe the most economical, and, in short, the best for allthe world.

Probably it is because bread and butter can bebought ready made, and involve no trouble, that theyare held to be the chief necessaries of life in everyEnglish household. Some children almost live, ifthey do not thrive, on bread and butter. Thoughtlesshousekeepers think they have done their duty[113]when they have seen that a sufficient supply of thesearticles has been sent in from the shops. When weinsist that everyone should have home-baked bread,at once we shall be met with the "penny-wise"suggestion that home-baked bread costs more thanbaker's, because, being so nice, people eat more of it.Good bread, we need not say, is far more nourishingthan that which is made from inferior materials oradulterated even with non-injurious substances forwheaten flour. Then all the other difficulties cometo the fore: cook spoils the bakings, the oven is notsuitable, and so on. To all these we answer: A goodhousekeeper, one who looks beyond the sum total ofher weekly bills, who thinks no trouble too great toprovide such food as will maintain the health of herfamily, will have home-baked bread.

There are other points in domestic managementwhich do not receive the attention they deserve. Ofthese we may cite the use of labour-saving machinesand of gas for cooking.

How often do we hear it said: "I always have suchand such a thing done in that way, because it was mymother's way!"

This may be very nice and very natural, but it isnevertheless a sentimental reason. What should wethink of a person who insisted on riding pillion,because her mother rode pillion? Yet, this really ispretty much the same thing as we see every day,when ladies are so wedded to old ways that theypersist in employing the rough-and-ready implementsof domestic use, the pattern whereof has been handed[114]down from the Ark, instead of modern and scientificinventions which save both time and trouble. In noother department of the national life have the peoplebeen so slow to adopt simple machinery as in that ofthe household.

It is alleged, in the first place, that labour-savingmachines are expensive; in the next place, thatservants do not understand them, and that they arealways getting out of order.

As to the first objection, we would say that as thesemachines—we speak only, of course, of really goodmachines—are made, not only with the object ofsaving labour, but material, the original cost of themis in a short time repaid. As regards the secondobjection, it seems incomprehensible that servantsshould not use with care and thoughtfulness machines,which not only save time and trouble, but greatly helpin making their work perfect.

There is no doubt that by the more generaladoption of machinery household work would bemuch lightened, and that if there were a demand forit, enterprise would be much stimulated, and manymore useful helps would be produced. As it is,manufacturers hesitate to bring out new inventions ata great expense, when there is a doubt of securing theappreciation of the public.

Only the other day we were inquiring for a littlemachine we had seen years ago, and were told by themaker that, "like many other useful things, it hadbeen shelved by the public, and ultimately lost."

Let us take the case of making bread at home.[115]By the use of a little simple dough-mixing machine,supplied by Kent, 199, High Holborn, the operationis easy, quick, cleanly, and certain. We have had oneof these in use for more than ten years, and duringthat time have never had a bad batch of bread. Notonly in this machine do we make ten to eleven poundsof dough in five minutes, but the kneading is mostperfectly done, and there is the great advantage ofsecuring perfect cleanliness, the hands not being usedat all in the process. Yet we do not suppose thatany number of the people who have admired thebread have set up the machine. It cannot be thecost of the machine, as it is inconsiderable, whichprevents its more general use, since in householdswhere expense is not an object the primitive processis still in vogue.

Many people imagine that washing machines areonly needed in large families where all the washing isgot up at home. But, if ever so small or only anoccasional wash is done, there is no exaggerating thecomfort and advantage of a machine which washes,wrings, and mangles. So far from injuring linen,machines of the best kind wear it far less than roughhand labour, and with reasonable care it will befound that delicate fabrics are not split in the wringingby a good machine, as they so frequently are bythe hand.

Then there is the case of the knife-cleaning machine.There are families who, instead of using one, employ aboy to ruin their knives by rubbing them on a board withBath brick. They do so, they will tell you, "because[116]machines wear out the knives." The slightest acquaintancewith the mechanism of a good knife-cleaningmachine should suffice to show that thebrushes cannot wear out the knives, whereas theaction of the board and brick is the most destructivethat can be imagined. The objection of undue wearbeing disposed of, we are told that the machinessoon get out of order, and are a constant expense.Of course, with careless usage anything will come togrief, but the fact remains that Kent, the leadingmanufacturer of knife-cleaners, has published a certificatefrom a lady who has had in constant use, forthirty years, one of his machines, which during thattime has required no repairs. As to knives, we knowof some which have been cleaned daily for twenty-fiveyears in a machine, and are very little the worsefor wear.

Dressmakers tell us that, but for the sewingmachine, an elaborate style of trimming ladies'dresses would be impossible. We know that manyinexpensive delicacies, which it is not practicableto have now because of the time and trouble theyrequire, could easily be managed by the use of littlearticles of domestic machinery. For instance, takepotted meat. There is the excellent CombinationMincer, also Kent's, by which this is rapidly andperfectly done, and which enables cooks to useup many scraps of material in a most acceptableway, and without the labour of the pestle andmortar. This machine, however, is but little known.It costs but a sovereign, is useful for all mincing[117]purposes, and makes the best sausages in theworld.

To make sausages properly, a machine must havean adjustment of the cutters by which the sinews ofthe meat and bits of skin are retained on them, asnothing is so unpleasant as to find these when eatingthe sausages. Thus it will be seen how necessary itis, in setting up machinery which should last a lifetime,to have the best inventions in the market.Not very long ago, a friend asked our opinion onthe merits of the different makers of knife-cleaningmachines. We explained to her the mechanism ofthe best of them, pointed out the superior workmanship,and that she should not grudge the money tohave one which would do its work properly and bedurable. Probably under the impression that "inthe multitude of counsellors there is wisdom," ourfriend made further inquiries, and ended by buyinga much-advertised machine which, she was assured,was better and cheaper than that of Kent, the originalpatentee. When she had the machine home, andcalculated, together with the cost of carriage, her ownexpenses in going to London to choose it, she foundthat she had saved exactly eighteenpence, and thenthat her bargain would not clean the knives!

The prejudices which for a long time existed againstcooking by gas have gradually cleared away now thatimproved stoves have been introduced, and the publichave experience of its many advantages. There areyet some difficulties to be met in bringing gas intomore general use, one of which, the high price[118]charged for it, is beyond the control of the housekeeper,and another, that of teaching servants to beeconomical and careful in its use. When this lastcan be overcome, even with the first named drawback,gas will not be found more expensive thancoal. The cost of wood, of sweeping the chimney,and the extra wear and tear occasioned by the soot,smoke, and dust of a coal fire, must be calculated inaddition to the fuel itself.

It will be seen, when we say that the entire cookingfor a small family having late dinners, bread baked,and much water heated, is done for something under£2 a quarter, that gas as a fuel is not so great anextravagance after all. The stove used has the ovenlined with a non-conducting substance, which has theadvantage of keeping the heat within instead ofsending it into the kitchen, as stoves made only ofiron plates are apt to do. We have but space to addthat the benefit to health, the cleanliness, the savingof time, labour, and temper, to say nothing of thesuperiority of cooking done by gas in such a stove ashas been described, can only be fully appreciated bythose who, like the writer, have had twenty years'experience of all these advantages.

NEW ZEALAND FROZEN MUTTON.

The high price at which meat has stood for someyears has made it necessary for the working classes torestrict themselves to a scanty allowance of animalfood, and this often of poor quality. The difficultyof providing joints of meat for their families has,indeed, also been felt severely by people who arecomparatively well-to-do. Under these circumstancescapitalists have thought it worth a considerable investmentof money to discover some means of bringingthe cheap and magnificent supplies of New Zealandinto the English market. After many failures, successhas at length crowned the enterprise, and nothing canexceed the perfection in which New Zealand mutton isnow placed on the English market. It is universallyadmitted that the meat, both as respects its nutritivevalue and its flavour, is unsurpassed, while the price isvery moderate. The same remarks apply to New Zealandlamb. It commences to arrive in January, and is inthe height of its season when our English lamb is aluxury which can only be enjoyed by the few.

Nelson Brothers, Limited, stand foremost amongthe importers of this invaluable food supply. Themutton and lamb selected by them is of the highestquality, and their system of refrigeration is perfect. Insummer these New Zealand meats have a great advantageover the home supply, as although in keepingthey may lose colour, they remain good and sweetmuch longer than English-killed meat.

The Company have large refrigerating stores underCannon Street Station capable of holding some 70,000sheep, and have recently erected stores oftreblethat capacity at Nelson's Wharf, Commercial Road,[120]Lambeth, wherein the latest improvements both asregards construction and refrigerating machinery havebeen adopted, in order to facilitate the development ofthe frozen meat trade.

If any of our readers are anxious to try the meat,and are unable to procure it, a postcard to the HeadOffice, 15, Dowgate Hill, London, E.C., or to any ofthe Branch Offices, will at once put them in the wayof carrying out their desire.

As it occasionally happens that from want of somelittle precaution New Zealand meat does not come totable in its best condition, we offer the following hintsfor the treatment of it:

Frozen mutton, like that which is freshly killed,requires to be hung a certain time—this is most essentialto remember, otherwise the meat eats hard andtough—and it is important to observe, both when hangingand roasting, that it is so placed that the juice shallnot run out of the cut end. Hind-quarters, haunches,and legs should be hung with the knuckle end downwards;loins and saddles by the flaps, thus giving thema horizontal position. The meat in winter should bekept in the kitchen some time before cooking, andafter being exposed for a few minutes to a rapid heatin order to seal up and keep the gravy in the joint, itshould be cooked rather slowly, thus taking a littlemore time than is usually given to English meat.

INDEX.

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Beef and Carrots	In pint packets, 6d. each.
Beef and Celery
Beef and Onion
Mulligatawny
Beef, Peas, and Vegetables	In quart packets, 6d. each.
Beef, Lentils, and Vegetables	In quart packets, 6d. each.

	PAGE
Preface	7
Bottled Jellies	7
Tablet Jellies	8
Lemon Sponge	9
Citric Acid and Pure Essence of Lemon	9
Pure Essence of Almonds and Vanilla	9
Gelatine Lozenges	9
Jelly-Jubes	10
Licorice Lozenges	10
Albumen	10
Extract of Meat	10
Soups	11
Beef Tea	12
New Zealand Mutton	12
Tinned Meats	12
Gelatine	13
Soups	14
Little Dishes of Fish	22
Little Dishes of Meat	31
Puddings	50
Jellies	61
Creams	74
Cakes	85
Beverages	93
Macaroni, etc.	98
Hints on Housekeeping	105
New Zealand Frozen Mutton	119
Index	121

Movatterモバイル変換

The Project Gutenberg eBook ofNelson's Home Comforts

NELSON'SHOME COMFORTS.

CONTENTS.

NELSON'S HOME COMFORTS.

PREFACE.

NELSON'S HOME COMFORTS.

SOUPS.

BEEF AND ONION SOUP.

NELSON'S MULLIGATAWNY SOUP.

BEEF, LENTIL, AND VEGETABLE SOUP.

BEEF, PEA, AND VEGETABLE SOUP.

BEEF TEA AS A SOLID.

CLEAR VERMICELLI SOUP.

SOUP JULIENNE.

BROWN RABBIT SOUP CLEAR.

HARE SOUP.

MULLIGATAWNY SOUP.

THIN MULLIGATAWNY SOUP.

BROWN ARTICHOKE SOUP.

TURTLE SOUP.

MOCK TURTLE SOUP.

GRAVY.

GLAZE.

LITTLE DISHES OF FISH.

FRIED SOLE.

FILLETED SOLES.

FILLETS OF SOLE SAUTÉS.

FILLETS OF SOLE FRIED.

FILLETS OF SOLE WITH LOBSTER.

BAKED WHITING.

COD CUTLETS.

FRIED HERRINGS.

ROLLED HERRINGS.

GALANTINE OF FISH.

FILLETS OF SOLE EN ASPIC.

COLLARED EELS.

LITTLE DISHES OF MEAT.

MUTTON CUTLETS.

ROULADES OF MUTTON.

MUTTON COLLOPS.

MUTTON SAUTÉ.

COLD MUTTON POTTED.

MUTTON PIES.

OX BRAIN.

BRAIN FRITTERS.

MARROW TOAST.

CHICKEN IN ASPIC JELLY.

VEAL CUTLETS IN WHITE SAUCE.

KIDNEYS SAUTÉS.

TINNED KIDNEYS WITH MUSHROOMS.(Tomoana Brand.)

KIDNEYS WITH PICCALILLI SAUCE.(Tomoana Brand.)

BROILED KIDNEYS.

LAMB'S FRY.

LAMB'S SWEETBREADS.

VEAL À LA CASSEROLE.

BROWN FRICASSÉE OF CHICKEN.

CHICKEN SAUTÉ.

POTATO HASH.

DRY CURRY.

CROQUETTES.

MEAT CAKES À L'ITALIENNE.

RAISED PORK PIE.

VEAL AND HAM PIE.

PORK SAUSAGES.

PUDDINGS.

CUSTARD PUDDING.

SOUFFLÉ PUDDING.

OMELET SOUFFLÉ.

SPONGE SOUFFLÉ.

CABINET PUDDING.

BRANDY SAUCE.

WARWICKSHIRE PUDDING.

VANILLA RUSK PUDDING.

JUBILEE PUDDING.

NATAL PUDDING.

QUEEN'S PUDDING.

CHOCOLATE PUDDING.

COCOA-NUT PUDDING.

RASPBERRY AND CURRANT PUDDING.

NELSON'S

HOME COMFORTS.

TINNED KIDNEYS WITH MUSHROOMS.
(Tomoana Brand.)

KIDNEYS WITH PICCALILLI SAUCE.
(Tomoana Brand.)