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LONDON:

PRINTED AT THE

Minerva Press,

AND SOLD BY WILLIAM LANE,

LEADENHALL-STREET,

AND BY MRS. HARLOW, PALL-MALL.

M.DCC.XCIII.

PRICE THREE SHILLINGS
Entered at Stationers Hall.

CONTENTS.

A TRIP
TO
PARIS.

ROAD FROM CALAIS. UNNECESSARY PASSPORTS. CHANTILLY.

THE following excursion was undertaken for several reasons: the first ofwhich was, that though I had been many times in Paris before, yet I hadnot once been there since the Revolution, and I was desirous of seeinghow far a residence of a few years in France might be practicable andagreeable; secondly, a Counter-Revolution, or, at least, some violentmeasures were expected, and I was willing to be there at the time, ifpossible;[2] and lastly, I wanted to examine the gardens near Paris.

I must here premise that I sent for a passport from the Secretary ofState's office, which I knew could do no harm if it did no good,thinking I should have it for nothing, and obtained one signed by LordGrenville, but at the same time a demand was made fortwo guineas andsixpence for the fees; now, as I have had passports from almost all theEuropean nations,all and every one of which weregratis, I sent thepass back; it was however immediately returned to me, and I was toldthat, "A passport is never issued from that office without that fee,even if the party asking for it changes his mind."I paid the money,and that is all I shall say about the matter.

Mr. Chauvelin (the minister from France) sent me his passgratis;those which I afterwards received in Paris fromLord Gower, and thevery essential one fromMr. Petion, were likewisegratis.[3]

That ofMr. Chauvelin has at the top a small engraving of threeFleurs de Lys between two oak branches, surmounted by a crown: at thebottom is another small engraving, with his cypher F. C. it was datedLondon,17th July, 1792, 4th year of Liberty.

No passport of any kind is necessary to enter France. At Calais onewas given to me by the magistrates, mentioning my age, stature,complexion, &c. and this would have been a sufficient permit for mygoing out of France by sea or by land, if the disturbances in Paris, ofthe 10th of August, had not happened.

I embarked at Dover on the 25th July, at one in the afternoon, andlanded at Calais after a pleasant passage of three hours and a half.

I immediately procured a national cockade, which was a silk ribband,with blue, white, and red stripes; changed twenty guineas for fortylivres each, in paper, (the real value is not more than twenty-fivelivres) hired acabriolet, or two wheeled post-chaise ofDessin,[4](which was to take me to Paris, and bring me back in a month) for threelouis d'ors in money, bought a post-book, drank a bottle of Burgundy,and set off directly forMarquise (about fifteen miles) where I passedthe night.

The next day, 26th, I proceeded only toAbbeville, and it was ten atnight when I got there, because a gentleman in the chaise with me, andanother gentleman and his wife, who had not been in France before, andwho accompanied us all the way to Paris, wished to see Boulogne. Weaccordingly walked round the ramparts, and then went on.

The 27th we remained a few hours atAmiens, and saw the cathedral andthe engine which supplies the city with water, calledLa Tour d'Eau.We slept atBreteuil which is a paltry town (Bourg.)

The 28th. We were five hours occupied in seeingChantilly. This palaceis the most magnificent of any in Europe, not belonging to a sovereign.In the cabinet of natural[5] history, which has lately been veryconsiderably augmented, by the addition of that ofMr. Valmont deBomare (who arranged the whole) I observed thefœtus of a whale,about fourteen inches long, preserved in spirits; and the skin of a wolfstuffed. I saw this identical wolf atMontargis, a palace beyondFontainebleau, in 1784, soon after it had been shot. The carp came, asusual, to be fed by hand. Some of them are said to have been here abovea century. As to the gardens, they are well known; all that I shall sayis, that they do not contain a single curious tree, shrub, or flower. Wehired a landau, at the inn, to drive us about these gardens, and in theevening proceeded toSt. Denis, which is only a single post fromParis, where we remained, as it would not have been so convenient toseek for a lodging there at night.

The next day, Sunday 29th, early in the morning, we entered Paris, andput up at theHôtel d'Espagne,Rue du Colombier, and in the eveningwent to the opera ofCorisandre.[6]

EXPENCES.

THE whole expences of our journey from Calais to Paris was as follows.The distance is thirty-four posts and a half, the last of which must bepaid double.[1] The two chaises were each drawn by two horses, at 30sous per horse, and 20 sous to each postillion per post, is 35 and halfposts, at eightlivres, isLivres 284.

This, at 40 livres per guinea, amounts to thirteen guineas and a half;to which must be[7] added, for the hire of the two chaises to Paris, threeLouis in money, adequate to three pounds sterling, which altogetherdoes not amount to four guineas each person, travelling post above twohundred miles, and faring sumptuously on the road, drinking Burgundy andChampagne, and being as well received at the inns as if the expences hadbeen quadrupled. One hot meal a day, at threelivres a head, onelivre for each bed, and the wine paid for apart, was the customaryallowance. After this manner I have travelled several times all overFrance, toBourdeaux,Toulouse,Montpelier,Marseille,Toulon,Hieres,Avignon,Lyon,&c.

Had the exchange been at par, the expence would have been doubled, inEnglish money; but even then would have been very reasonable, comparedto the cost of a similar journey in England.

At Paris I received 42 livres 15 sous for each guinea; soon after whichI was paid forty-two livres for every pound sterling which I drew onLondon: on my return to Calais I[8] found the exchange to be forty-fourlivres per guinea, and once it was as high as forty-nine. This, ofcourse, very much injures the trade between England and France; but, forthe same reason, English families residing in France at present, morethan double their income, by drawing bills on London for such income,and it will probably be many years before the exchange will be atparagain.

MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. CHESSMEN. TREE OF LIBERTY. CRUCIFIXES,VIRGINS. SAINTS. BISHOPS. OLD WOMEN, &C.

THE whole way from Calais to Paris the land was in the highest state ofcultivation.

The sandy soil near the gates of Calais abounded with theChelidoniumGlaucium, or common yellow horned poppy.[9]

Between St. Just and Clermont is a magnificentchâteau and gardenbelonging to theci-devant Duc de Fitzjames: this seat has never beendescribed; it is not shewn to strangers at present, as the proprietor isemigrated.

The country all around Chantilly, consists of cornfields; formerly itappeared barren, because the immense quantity of game which infested andover-ran it devoured all the crops and ruined the farmers, who were sentto the gallies if they shot a bird.

I passed this way in 1783 and 1784, and saw vast numbers of pheasants,partridges, and hares cross the road, and feed by the side of it, astame as poultry in a farm-yard; but at present the game is alldestroyed; neither are there any more wild boars in the forest, which isof 7600 acres. These animals still inhabit the forest ofFontainebleau. This forest (which covers almost four times as much[10]ground as that ofChantilly)[2] contains a greater number of trees, ofa more enormous size, than I have seen in any other part of Europe,growing amongst rocks and stones equally remarkable for theirdimensions. I know not of any parallel to thesublime-beautiful, andto the wild and romantic grandeur of the scenery here displayed. Thelandscapes ofSalvator Rosa appear to have been taken from naturalobjects, similar to those which are here seen. It is only forty milesfrom Paris.

In the treasury of the Abbey atSt. Denis were formerly preserved theChess-men ofCharlemagne; these I described in the first volume ofChess, published in 1787; they are now eitherstolen or strayed, andwill probably never more be heard of.

All the horses (many of which were stone-horses) we had occasion to makeuse of along this road were very gentle, and so were the cattle whichwere feeding on the grass growing[11] on the borders of the cornfields,(without any inclosure) which they were prevented from entering by astring tied to their horns, one end of which was sometimes held by achild of five or six years old. The people here are very merciful andkind to their beasts. I have seen droves of oxen walking leisurelythrough the green markets in the cities, smelling at the vegetables, anddriven to the slaughter-house by children. There are no instances hereof mad oxen, mad dogs, or run-away horses.

In every one of the towns between Calais and Paris a full-grown tree(generally a poplar) has been planted in the market-place, with many ofits boughs and leaves; these last being withered, it makes but a dismalappearance; on the top of this tree or pole is a red woollen or cottonnight-cap, which is called theCap of Liberty, with streamers aboutthe pole, of red, blue and white ribbands.[12]

I saw several statues of saints, both within and without the churches(and in Paris likewise) with similar caps, and several crucifixes withthe national cockade of ribbands tied to the left arm of the image onthe cross, but not one with the cockade in its proper place; the reasonof which I know not.

I was both surprised and sorry to see the wooden images, many of them aslarge as the life, on crosses, painted with the natural colours, to theamount of perhaps twenty betweenCalais andParis, still suffered toremain nuisances on the side of the road. Theperpendicular of eachcross being seasoned, by having been exposed many years to the open air,might make a couple of excellent pike staves;[3] but the remainderwould, as far as I know, be of no other use than for fuel.

Another absurdity which has not been attended to as yet is, that most ofthe almanacks, even that which is prefixed to Mr.[13]Rabaut's Account ofthe Revolution, contains against every day in the year, the name of somesaint or other, male or female; some of them martyrs, and others not,others archangels, angels, arch-bishops, bishops, popes, and virgins, tothe number of twenty-four, and of these, four were martyrs into thebargain; and this at a time when churches are selling by auction andpulling down, when the convents are turned into barracks, when there isneither monk nor nun to be seen in the kingdom, nor yet anyAbbe, andwhen no priest dares appear in any sacerdotal garment, or even with anything which might mark him as an ecclesiastic. It must however beacknowledged, that the saints have lost all their credit in France, andof course so have theBienheureux, orBlessed. In order to arrive atsaint-hood, the candidate must first have dieden odeur de Sainteté,which, were it not too ludicrous, might be translatedsmelling ofholiness; he was then created aBienheureux, and after he had beendead a century, the pope might canonize him if he pleased; after[14] whichhe, the saint, might work miracles if he could, or let it alone.

France formerly contained eighteen arch-bishopricks, and one hundred andthirteen bishopricks; theArch ones are all abolished, and likewiseforty-seven of the others; there are, however, plenty remaining, no lessthan seventy-three, which includes seven new ones, and one inCorsica.

The churches in Paris are not much frequented on the week days, atpresent; I found a few old women on their knees in some of them, hearingmass; and, at the same time, at the other end of one of these churchescommissaries were sitting and entering the names of volunteers for thearmy.

The iron rails in the churches which part the choir from the nave, andalso those which encompass chapels and tombs, are all ordered to beconverted into heads for pikes.[15]

On Sundays, before the 19th of August, the churches were still resortedto, but by no means crowded; I know not whether this be the case now.

All thejours de fête, holidays, are very judiciously abolished, andlikewiseles jours gras, et maigres, (Flesh and meagre days.)

All shops are allowed to be open, and every trade carried on on Sundays,notwithstanding which, few are open excepting those where provisions aresold; the inhabitants choosing to have one day's relaxation in seven, totake a little fresh air, and to appear well dressed.

WALL ROUND PARIS. NEW BRIDGE. FIELD OF THE FEDERATION. BASTILLE.

THERE is a Wall which encompasses Paris, of about twelve feet high andtwo feet thick, about nine miles long on the[16] North side, and five onthe South side; this was built just before the Revolution, and wasintended to prevent goods from being smuggled into Paris. On the Northside are thirty-six barriers, and on the other side eighteen; of thesefifty-four I saw only ten. They were intended for the officers of thecustoms; at present they are used as guardrooms. Most of them aremagnificent buildings, of white stone, some like temples, others likechapels; several of these are described in the newParis Guides; butviews of none of them have as yet been engraven.[4]

A bridge of white stone was just finished and opened for the passage ofcarriages; it was begun in 1787, it is of five arches, the centre archis ninety-six feet wide, the two collateral ones eighty-seven feet each,and other two seventy-eight, each of these arches forms part of acircle, whose centre is considerably under the level of the water; it isthrown[17] over the river from thePlace de Louis XV. to thePalaisBourbon.

TheChamp de la Federation, formerlyChamp de Mars, is a field whichserved for the exercises of the pupils of the Royal Military School; itis a regular parallelogram of nine hundred yards long, and three hundredyards broad, exclusive of the ditches by which it is bounded, and of thequadruple rows of trees on each side; but if these are included thebreadth is doubled. At one extremity is the magnificent buildingabove-mentioned,[5] and the river runs at the foot of the others. Inthis field is formed the largestCircus in the world, being eighthundred yards long and four hundred broad; it is bordered by a slope offorty yards broad,[18] and of which the highest part is ten feet above thelevel ground; the lower part is cut into thirty rows, gradually elevatedabove each other, and on these rows or ridges a hundred and sixtythousand persons may fit commodiously; the upper part may contain abouta hundred and fifty thousand persons standing, of which every one maysee equally well what is doing in theCircus. The Nationalconfederation was first held here, 14th July, 1790, and at that time awooden bridge was thrown on boats over the river for convenience.

Of theBastille nothing remains but the foundations; it was demolishedand levelled with the ground in about eleven months; the expences at theend of the first three months amounted to about twenty thousand poundssterling. The materials were sold for half that sum, and the nation paidthe remainder. And on the 14th of July, 1790, the anniversary of the dayof its having been taken, a long mast was erected in the middle of theplace where it stood, crowned with flowers and ribbands, and bearingthis simple[19] and expressive inscription;Ici on Danse. Here isdancing.

COINS AND TOKENS.

IN theHôtel de la Monnoye (the Mint) I procured some new coins. Thesilver crown piece of six livres has on one side the king's head inprofile, round which isLouis XVI. Roi des François, 1792; over thisdate is a small lion passant, being a Mint mark. The reverse, is a humanfigure with an enormous pair of wings,[6] holding a book in its lefthand, which book rests on an altar, and with its other is represented asif writing in it; the wordConstitution is already seen there. Thefigure is naked, except a slight drapery on the left arm; behind thefigure is a bundle of staves, like the Roman Fasces, surmounted[20] by thecap of liberty, and behind the altar is a cock standing on one leg; theinscription isRegne de la Loi.L'An 4 de la Liberté. Besides this,there are two other Mint marks, one a small lyre, and the other theletter A; at the foot of the altar isDupre, the name of the personwho engraved the die; and on the edge isLa Nation,La Loi,et leRoi, inRelievo.

There are no new half crowns. The dies of the new thirty and fifteen solpieces are just like that of the crown, except that their value isstamped on them 30Sols, 15Sols, and that there is no inscriptionon the edge.

There are two other coins, made of a sort of bell-metal; one of twoSols, with the king's profile; inscription and date like those on thesilver coin, and on the reverse theFasces and cap, between two oakbranches, and the inscription,La Nation, Le Loi, Le Roi. L'an 4dela Liberté. 2 S. The other of half this size, and with the sameimpressions,[21] except that its value is specified thus, 12 D. orDeniers, equal to oneSol.

I have not seen any new Louis. No paper money or assignats is known inthe Mint; I bought some coins here, and paid for them in guineas, whichare currant for twenty-five livres. There are twelve or fourteen mills,which were all at work in coining crown pieces, and likewise severalhammering machines, one of which was coining 2Sols pieces.

Besides the national coins, several tradesmen have been permitted tofabricate silver and copper medals ortokens, for public convenience,the most beautiful of which are those ofM. Monneron. The largest isof almost pure copper, exactly of the size and thickness of the crownpiece; in an oval is represented a female figure with a helmet on,sitting on an elevated place, on which isDupre f. (or fecit) holdinga book, inscribedConstitution des François; at her side is a shieldwith the arms of France, and at her feet an altar, on[22] one side of whichis the profile of the king; several soldiers are represented extendingtheir right arms, as if taking the oath; at top isPacte Federatif; atbottom 14Juillet, 1790; round the ovalvivre libres ou mourir,which is repeated in one of the banners carried by a soldier. On thereverse, in a circle, isMedaille de confiance de cinq-solsremboursable en assignats de 50^Let au dessus.L'An IV. de laLiberté; round this isMonneron Freres Negocians à Paris, 1792; andon the edge is cutDepartemens de Paris,Rhone et Loire.Du Gard.

I have another of these pieces, not quite so large nor so well executed;one of the sides is similar to that already described; on the other isMedaille qui se vend 5Sols à Paris chez Monneron patenté.L'An IV.de la Liberté. Round this is,Revolution Française, 1792; and on theedge,Bon pour les 83Departemens. I am told this was made atBirmingham.[23]

The other token of the same merchant is rather larger and thicker thanour halfpenny. On one side is a woman sitting, with a staff in her righthand with the cap of liberty; her left arm leans on a square tablet, onwhich are the words,Droits de l'Homme. Artic. V.[7] the sun shinesjust over her head, and behind her is a cock perched on half a flutedcolumn; round the figure,Liberté sous la Loi, and underneath,L'AnIII. de la Liberté. On the reverse,Medaille de confiance de deux solsà echanger contre des assignats de 50^L et au dessus. 1791. Roundthis the merchant's name, as in the first; and on the edge,Bon pourBord. Marseil. Lyon. Rouen. Nant. et Strasb.

I have seen a silver token almost as big as a shilling. On one side isrepresented a woman sitting, leaning with her left arm on a large openbook, at her right is a cock perched on half a fluted column; and theinscription round these figures is,Le Fevre, Le Sage et Comp^ie.[24]n^gt. à Paris. On the reverse isB.P. (bon pour) 20Sols àechanger en assignats de 50^L and round this,et au dessus l'an 4 mede la Liberté, 1792.[8]

In this Hôtel is the cabinet of the royal school of mineralogy, whichMr. Le Sage has been four and twenty years in forming and analyzing; itis contained in a magnificent building, with a dome and gallery almostentirely of marble.

THEATRES.

AT this time there were ten regular theatres open every evening. Thefirst and most ancient of which is the Opera, or Royal Academy of Music.The old house which was in the Palais Royal, was burnt in 1781, and thepresent house, near St. Martin's Gate, was[25] built in seventy-five days.The number of performers, vocal and instrumental, dancers, &c. employedin this theatre is about four hundred and thirty. The price of admissionto the first boxes is seven livres ten sous, about six shillings andeight pence, (or three shillings and four pence as the exchange thenwas.)

2. TheFrench playhouse is at present calledTheatre de la Nation.In the vestibule or porch is a marble statue ofVoltaire, sitting inan arm chair; it is near the Luxembourg.

3. The Italian theatre behind theBoulevart Richelieu. Notwithstandingthe name, nothing but French pieces, and French music, are performedhere.

4. Theatrede Monsieur.Rue Feydeau. Comedies and operas areperformed here, three times a week in the Italian, and the other days inthe French language; for which purpose two sets of players are engagedat this house.[26]

5. Theatre Français. Rue de Richelieu. At these four theatres the priceof admission into the boxes was a crown.

8. Theatre de la Demoiselle Montansier, au Palais Royal. The box priceof these three last was half a crown.

To these must be added about five and twenty more; the best of which istheTheatre de l'ambigu comique, on theNorth Boulevarts;[9][27]box price was half a crown. The others were rope dancers, and such kindof spectacles asSadler's Wells, &c. and the prices were from twoshillings down to sixpence. The French themselves, laughing at the greatincrease of their theatres, said, "We shall shortly have a publicspectacle per street, an actor per house, a musician per cellar, and anauthor per garret."

PANTHEON. JACOBINS. QUAI VOLTAIRE. RUE ROUSSEAU. COCKADES.

THE new church ofSainte Genevieve was begun in 1757; but the buildingwas discontinued during the last war; in 1784 it was resumed, and is atpresent almost finished. The whole length of the front is thus inscribedin very large gilt capitals:Aux grands hommes: la Patriereconnoissante. To great men: their[28] grateful country. And over theentrance:Pantheon Français. L'An III de la Liberté.

As to the size of Paris, I saw two very large plans of that city and ofLondon, on the same scale, on which it was said, that Paris covered5,280,000 squareToises, and London only 3,900,000. AToise is twoyards; and from the plan it appeared to be near the truth.

The new buildings which surround the garden of the Palais Royal form aparallelogram, that for beauty is not to be matched in Europe. Theyconsist of shops, coffee-houses, music rooms, four of which are incellars, taverns, gaming-houses, &c. and the whole square is almostalways full of people. The square is 234 yards in length, and 100 inbreadth; the portico which surround it consists of 180 arches.

The celebratedJacobins are a club, consisting at present of about1300 members, and so called, because the place of meeting is in[29] thehall which was formerly the library of the convent of that name, in theRue St. Honoré, about 300 yards distant from the National Assembly.The proper name of the club is,Society of the Friends of theConstitution. There are three or four other societies of less note.

TheQuai, which was formerly calleddes Theatins is at present namedQuai Voltaire, in honor of that philosopher, who died there in thehouse of the Marquis deVillette, in 1778.

The street which was formerly calledPlatriere, and in which thegeneral post-office is situated, is calledRue Jean Jaques Rousseau,in honour of this writer, who resided some time in this street. I foundhim here in 1776, and he copied some music for me; he had no other booksat that time than an EnglishRobinson Crusoe and an ItalianTasso'sJerusalem. He died 1st July, 1778, very soon after Voltaire, at thecountry seat of le Marquisde Girardin about ten leagues from Paris;and is buried there, in a small island.[30]

And the street which was formerly calledChaussée d'Antin is now namedRue de Mirabeau, in honour of the late patriot of that name.

The churchdes Innocens was pulled down in 1786, and the vastcimetiére (burying ground) was filled up. Every night, during severalmonths, carts were employed in carrying the bones found there, to othergrounds out of Paris; it is now a market for vegetables. Very near thisplace was a fountain, which is mentioned in letters patent so long agoas 1273. It was rebuilt with extraordinary magnificence in 1550,repaired in 1708, and at last, in 1788, carefully removed to the centerof the market, where it now stands.

The newQuai de Gesvres was constructed in 1787, and all the shopswhich formed a long narrow alley for foot passengers only, weredestroyed.

At this time no person was permitted to walk in any other part of theTuileries gardens[31] than in the terrace of theFeuillans, which isparallel to theRue St. Honoré, and under the windows of theNationalAssembly; the only fence to the other part of the garden was a blueribband extended between two chairs.

Hitherto cockades of silk had been worn, thearistocrats wore such aswere of a paler blue and red, than those worn by thedemocrats, andthe former were even distinguished by their carriages, on which a cloudwas painted upon the arms, which entirely obliterated them, (of these Isaw above thirty in the eveningpromenade, in theBois de Boulogne:)but on the 30th of July, every person was compelled by the people towear a linen cockade, without any distinction in the red and bluecolours.[32]

EXECUTION OF TWO CRIMINALS, WITH A BEHEADING MACHINE.

ON the 4th of August a criminal was beheaded, in thePlace de Grêve. Idid not see the execution, because, as the hour is never specified, Imight have waited many hours in a crowd, from which there is noextricating one's self. I was there immediately after, and saw themachine, which was just going to be taken away. I went into acoffee-house and made a drawing, which is here engraven. It is calledla Guillotine, from the name of the person who first brought it intouse in Paris: that atLisle is calledle Louison, for a similarreason. In English it is termed a maiden.[10]

I have seen the following seven engravings of such an instrument. Themost ancient is engraven on wood, merely outlines, and very badly drawn;it is inPetrus de Natalibus Catalogus Sanctorum, 1510.

There was a German translation of some ofPetrarch's Works, publishedin 1520; this contains an engraving in wood, representing[34] an execution,with a great number of figures, correctly drawn.

And the two last are inGolfrieds's Historical Chronicles, in German,folio, 1674. These five last are engraven on copper.

In all these representations the axe is either straight or semicircular,but always horizontal. The sloping position of the French axe appears tobe the best calculated for celerity.

Machines of this kind are at present made use of for executionsthroughout all France, and criminals are put to death in no othermanner.[35]

The crowd began to assemble at ten in the morning, and waited, exposedto the intense heat of the sun in the middle of July, till four in theafternoon, when the criminals, a Marquis and a Priest, were brought, intwo coaches; they were condemned for having forgedassignats.

The Marquis ascended the scaffold first; he was as pale as if he hadalready been dead, and he endeavoured to hide his face, by pulling hishair over it; there were two executioners, dressed in black, on thescaffold, one of which immediately tied a plank of about 18 inchesbroad, and an inch thick, to the body of the Marquis, as he stoodupright, fastening it about the arms, the belly, and the legs; thisplank was about four feet long, and came almost up to his chin; a priestwho attended, then applied a crucifix to his mouth, and the twoexecutioners directly laid him on his belly on the bench, lifted up theupper part of the[36] board which was to receive his neck, adjusted hishead properly, then shut the board and pulled the string which isfastened to the peg at the top of the machine, which lifted up a latch,and down came the axe; the head was off in a moment, and fell into abasket which was ready to receive it, the executioner took it out andheld it up by the hair to show the populace, and then put it intoanother basket along with the body: very little blood had issued as yet.

The Priest was now taken out of the coach, from which he might have seenhis companion suffer; the bloody axe was hoisted up and he underwent thesame operation exactly. Each of these executions lasted about a minutein all, from the moment of the criminal's ascending the scaffold to thatof the body's being taken away. It was now seen that the body of theMarquis made such a violent expiration that the belly raised the lid ofthe basket it was in, and the blood rushed out of the great arteries intorrents.[37]

The windows of thePlace de Grêve were, as usual on such occasions,filled with ladies.[11] Many persons were performing on violins, andtrumpets, in order to pass the time away, and to relieve the tediousnessof expectation.

I have on several other days seen felons sitting on stools on thisscaffold, with their hands tied, and their arms and bodies fastened to astake by a girth, bareheaded, with an inscription over their heads,specifying their crimes and punishment; they are generally thus exposedduring five or fix hours, and then sent to prison, or to the galliesaccording to the sentence.[38]

VERSAILLES. BOTANY. SOUNDING MERIDIANS.

I went once to Versailles; there is hardly any thing in the palace butthe bare walls, a very few of the looking-glasses, tapestry, and largepictures remaining, as it has now been near two years uninhabited. Icrossed the great canal on foot; there was not a drop of water in it.

In theMenagerie I saw the Rhinoceros, which has been 23 years there;there is likewise a lion, with a little dog in the same den, as hiscompanion, and a zebra.

The collection of orange trees cannot be matched in any country wherethese trees do not grow naturally; the number is about six hundred, thelargest trunk is about fifteen[39] inches in diameter, and the age of themost ancient of these trees exceeds three centuries.

TheJardin Potager, or kitchen garden, is of fifty acres, divided intoabout five or six and twenty small gardens, of one, two, or three acres,walled round, both for shelter to the plants, and for training fruittrees against. One of these gardens, of two acres, was entirely allottedto the culture of melons, and these were all of the wartyrockcantalupe kind, and were growing under hand-glasses, in the manner ofour late cucumbers for pickling.

The season had been so unfavourable for wall-fruit, that (as thegardener told me) all these gardens had yielded less than a dozenpeaches and nectarines.

There is a botanical garden at thePetit Trianon in the park ofVersailles, but the person[40] who shews it was out of the way, so that Idid not see it.

I passed several mornings in the Botanical National Garden, (ci-devantJardin du Roi.) That part of the garden which contains the botanicalcollection is separated from the other part, which is open to the publicat large, by iron palisades. The names of the plants are painted onsquare plates of tin, stuck in the ground on the side of each plant. Isaw aStrelitzia, which was there calledRavenala, (probably fromsome modern botanist's name)Mr. Thouin, who superintends this garden,said to me, "We will not have any aristocratic plants, neither will wecall the new Planet by any other name than that of its discoverer,Herschel." I neglected to ask him why the plant might not retain itsoriginal and proper name ofHeliconia Bihai?

I here found theAnastatica Hierochuntica orRose of Jericho, whichI sought for in vain for several years, and advertised for in theGentleman's Magazine, for January 1791, and[41] in the newspapers. Manydescriptions and figures of this plant are to be found in old books, andthe dried plants are frequently to be met with. OldGerard very justlysays, "The coiner spoiled the name in the mint, for of all plants thathave been written of, there is not any more unlike unto the rose." Theannexed figure represents a single plant; it had been transplanted intoa deep pot, which had been filled with earth, so as to make it appearlike two plants. The stalks are shrubby, the leaves are fleshy, and of aglaucous or sea-green colour. Thecorolla consists of four very smallwhite petals. Its scientific description may be found inLinnæus [12].One of thesilicles is drawn magnified.

Mr. Thouin pointed out to me a new and very beautiful species ofZinnia, of which the flower is twice the size of that of the commonsort, and of a deep purple colour: a newverbascum, from the Levant;it was about four feet high, the leaves were almost as woolly as[42] thoseof theStachys lanata, and terminated in a point like a spur; it hadnot yet flowered. And a newsolanum, with spines the colour of gold.

He recommended the flower of thespilanthus brasiliana, which ournurserymen callVerbesinaacmella as an excellent dentifrice.

I also found here theamethystea, cœrulea: this annual has been lostin England above twenty years.[13]

Thedatura fastuosa, the French callTrompette du jugement à troisfleurs l'une dans l'autre; I have myself raised these with tripleflowers, both purple and white, though some of our nurserymen pretendedthe flowers were never more than double. Theanthemis arabica, a verysingular and pretty annual. Azinnia hybrida, which last has not yetbeen cultivated in England. Twenty-two sorts of[43]medicago polymorpha,(snails and hedgehogs) of these I had seen only four in England.

Here was a small single moss-rose plant, in a pot, which is the only oneI ever saw in France. The air is too hot for those roses, and for thesame reason none of the American plants, such as themagnolia (tuliptree)kalmia, &c. thrive in France, though kept in pots in the shadeand well watered; the heat of the atmosphere dries the trunk of thesetrees. But there are many other plants, to the growth of which theclimate is much more favourable than it is in England. In the open partof this garden are a great number ofbignonia-catalpa trees, whichwere then in flower, resembling horse-chesnut flowers at a distance, butmuch larger and more beautiful; and manynerium oleander trees, inwooden chests; several of these trees are about eight feet high and thetrunk a foot in diameter; they were then full of flowers of all thesorts, single and double, red and white; these are placed in thegreen-house in the winter.[44]

On a mount in this garden is ameridien sonnant (sounding meridian)this is an iron mortar which holds four pounds of gunpowder, it isloaded every morning, and exactly at noon the sun discharges the pieceby means of a burning glass, so placed that thefocus at that momentfires the powder in the touch-hole. The first meridian that was made ofthis kind is in the garden of thePalais Royal, at the top of one ofthe houses; I could not see it, but it is thus described in theParisGuide: "The touch-hole of the cannon is two inches long and half a line(the twentieth part of an inch) broad, this length is placed in thedirection of the meridian line. Twotransoms orcross-staves placedvertically on a horizontal plane, support alens or burning glass,which, by their means, is fixed according to the sun's height monthly,so as to cause thefocus to be exactly over the touch-hole at noon. Itis said to have been invented byRousseau." Small meridians of thissort are sold in the shops; these are dials of about a foot square,engraven on marble, with a little brass cannon and alens.[45]

The market for plants and flowers in pots, and for nosegays, is kept ontheQuai de la Megisserie, twice a week, very early in the morning;the following were the most abundant:Nerium double floweringpomegranate,vinca rosea, (Madagascar periwinkle)prickly lantana,peruvian heliotropium (turnsole) tuberoses, with very large andnumerous single and double flowers, and very great quantities of commonsweet basil, which is much used in cookery.

I visited the apothecaries garden, and also two or three nursery gardensin that neighbourhood, but found nothing remarkable in them.

There are many gardens in the environs of Paris which are worthy ofnotice, but I was prevented from seeing them in consequence of thedisturbances hereafter mentioned. In the books which describe theseplaces, I find the village ofMontreuil-sous-le-Bois particularlymentioned on account of its fertility. In theTableau de Paris it issaid,[46] "Three acres of ground produce to the proprietor twenty thousandlivres annually, (near 800 guineas.) The rent of an acre is six hundredlivres, and the king's tax sixty (together about six and twentyguineas.) The peaches which are produced here are the finest in theworld, and are sometimes sold for a crown a piece. When a prince hasgiven a splendid entertainment, three hundred Louis d'ors worth of thesefruits have been eaten." It is situated on a hill, just aboveVincennes, about three miles from the fauxbourgSaint Antoine, andis likewise celebrated for its grapes, strawberries, all sorts of wallfruit, pease, and every kind of esculent vegetables. In the gardencalledMouceaux which belongs to theci-devant Duke of Orleans; atthe extremity of thefauxbourg du Roule are, it is said, magnificenthot-houses, of which I have no recollection, though I was in the gardenin 1776. There is a description of these gardens in print, with sixteencopper plates. In theLuxembourg gardens only common annuals weregrowing, such as marigolds, sun-flowers, &c. probably self sown; neitherwere there in theTuileries[47] gardens, which I afterwards saw, anyremarkable plants.

I bought very large peaches in the markets at 30sous each, theordinary ones were at 10sols. The melons (which are brought to marketin waggons, piled up like turnips in England) were all of the nettedsort, and of so little flavor, that they would not be worth cultivating,were it not for the sake of cooling the mouth in hot weather; they weresold at 15 or 20 sous each. Strawberries were still plentiful (secondweek in August.)Cerneaux, which are the kernel of green walnuts, werejust coming into season.

I had now no opportunity of acquiring any more knowledge of the plantsin France, and shall only add, that I passed the winter of 1783 and1784, atMarseille and atHieres; and that besides oranges, lemons,cedras,[14][48] pistachios, pomegranates, and a few date palm trees, Ifound several species ofgeranium, myrtles, andcactus opuntia,(Indian fig) growing in the soil, and likewise themimosa farnesiana,sweet scented sponge tree, or fragrant acacia, the flowers of which arethere calledfleurs de cassier; these flowers, together with those ofthe jasmine, and those which fall from the orange and lemon trees, aresold to the perfumers ofProvence andLanguedoc.

Among the small plants, thearum arisarum, (friar's cowl) and theruscus aculeatus (butcher's broom) were the most conspicuous, thislatter is a pretty ever-green shrub, and the berries were there as largeas those of a commonsolanum pseudo capsicum, (Pliny'samomum, orwinter cherry) and of a bright scarlet colour, issuing from the middleof the under surface of the leaves; I never saw any of these berries anywhere else.Parkinson, in hisTheater of Plants, 1640, says, afterdescribing three or four species of this genus, "They scarse beareflower, much[49] lesse fruite, in our land." Perhaps the berries mightripen in our hot-houses.

Manyarbutus, or strawberry-trees, grow here, but they are not equalin size and beauty to many which I saw both in Portugal and in Ireland.

In 1784,M. J. J. de St. Germain, a nurseryman in theFauxbourg St.Antoine, published a book in 8vo of 400 pages, entitledManuel desVegetaux, or catalogue in Latin and French, of all the known plants,trees, and shrubs, in the world, arranged according to the system ofLinnæus; those plants which grow near Paris are particularlyspecified, and a very copious French index is added to the Latin one.The author died a few years ago; the plants were sold, and the nurseryground is at present built upon.[50]

DOGS AND CATS. TWO-HEADED BOY.

The lion-dog greatly resembles a lion in miniature; the hair of the forepart of its body is long, and curled, and the hinder part short; thenose is short, and the tail is long and tufted at the extremity; thesmallest are little larger than guinea-pigs; these are natives of Malta,and are the most valuable; those which are produced in France areconsiderably larger, and the breed degenerates very soon. Their generalcolour is white; they are frequently calledLexicons, which word isderived, not from a dictionary, but from a French compound word ofnearly the same sound, descriptive of one of their properties.

The lion-cat comes originally fromAngora, inSyria. It is muchlarger than the common[51] cat; its hair is very long, especially about theneck, where it forms a fine ruff, of a silvery whiteness and silkytexture, that on the tail is three or four inches long; these catsfrequently spread their tails on their backs, as squirrels do. Thecolour is generally white, but sometimes light brown; they do not catchmice. This beautiful species does not degenerate speedily, and itappears to thrive better in Paris than in any other part of Europe. Thefigures of both these animals are inBuffon's Natural History.

About thePalais Royal persons are frequently found who offer for salewhite mice in cages; these are pretty little animals, their fur is snowwhite, and their eyes are red and sparkling. Other persons carried forsale canary-birds, linnets, and two or three other sorts of small birds,perched on their fingers; these birds had been rendered so tame thatthey did not attempt to fly away.

But the greatest curiosity in Natural History which I saw there, was amale child[52] with two heads and four arms; it was then three months old,the two faces were perfectly alike, the noses aquiline, the eyes blue,and the countenances pleasing; the two bodies were joined together atthe chest, and the remainder was just like that of a common male child;one navel, one belly, onepenis oneanus, and two legs. The twobodies were face to face, so that they could embrace and kiss eachother; in their natural position they formed an angle of 65 degrees,like the letter Y. I remained above an hour with this child, it's motherand the nurse, and saw it suck at both breasts at the same time. It wastolerably strong, the skin was very soft, and almost transparent, thearms and legs were very lean, and the latter were crossed, and appearedincapable of being extended voluntarily; so that if the child shouldlive two or three years, which I do not think probable, it is not likelyit will ever be able to walk. One head would laugh while the othercried, one head would sleep whilst the other was awake; the inspirationand expiration of the breath, in each, was alternate, that[53] is to say,one inspired while the other expired its breath. There was nothingremarkable in the mother (a peasant's wife) except her obstinacy inrefusing to disencumber these two poor heads from a couple of thickquilted blue sattin caps with which they had dressed them, and which Iendeavoured to convince both her and the nurse would heat the heads, soas to be the means of shortening the child's life, and consequently ofcurtailing the profits arising from thisunique exhibition.

To this description an English physician, who likewise saw it, adds, "Itmust have had two brains, as motion and sensation were equal, andapparently perfect, in each head and chest, and in all the four arms. Ithad two hearts, and two sets of lungs; it had also two passages into thestomach, but, as was supposed, only one set ofabdominal viscera, asthe belly was not larger than that of a common child of that age usuallyis. The hearts and arteries beat more strongly than was consistent witha[54] long continuance of health. The action of the arteries was plainlyseen under the skin."

Mr. Buffon, in the Supplement to his Natural History, has given thefigure and description of a monster something similar to this, part ofwhich description I shall give in a note, as a parallel to that of theliving child.[15]

I went several times to the National Assembly; theTribunes, orGalleries, (of which[55] there are three) entered warmly, by applausesand by murmurs and hisses, into the affairs which were treated of.[56]

Letters are franked by the assembly as far as the frontiers, by beingstamped with red printers ink,Ass. Nationale.

About this time many hundreds of folio volumes of heraldry, and of theregisters of the nobility, were publicly burnt inla Place Vendôme,after due notice had been given of the time and place by advertisementspasted against the walls. A wicked wag observed, that it was a pity alltheir books of divinity, and almost all those of law and physic, werenot added to the pile but he comforted himself with reflecting thatçaviendra.

All the coats of arms which formerly decorated the gates ofHôtels aretaken away, and even seals are at present engraven with cyphers only.

The Chevaliers de St. Louis still continue to wear the cross, or theribband, at the button-hole; all other orders of knighthood areabolished. No liveries are worn by servants, that badge of slavery islikewise abolished;[57] and also all corporation companies, as well asevery other monopolizing society; and there are no longer anyRoyaltobacco nor salt shops.

I went once to theCafé de la Regence,[16] with the intention ofplaying a game at chess, but I found the chess-men so very littledifferent in colour, that I could not distinguish them sufficiently tobe able to play. It seems it is the fashion for chess-men at present tobe made of box-wood, and all nearly of the same colour. I then went toanother coffee-house frequented by chess-players, and here the matterwas worse; they had, in addition to the above-mentioned fashion,substituted thecavalier, orknight, for thefou, orbishop, andthebishop for theknight, so that I left them to fight their ownbattles.

Books of all sorts are printed without anyapprobation orprivilêge.Many are exposed on stalls, which are very improper for the public[58] eye.One of these was called thePrivate Life of the Queen, in two volumes,with obscene prints. The book itself is contemptible and disgusting, andmight as well have been called theWoman of Pleasure. Of books of thissort I saw above thirty, with plates. Another was on a subject not fiteven to be mentioned.

I read a small pamphlet, entitled "le Christ-Roi, or a Parallel of theSufferings of Lewis XVI. &c." I can say nothing in favor of it.

I found no new deistical books, the subject has already been exhausted,and every Frenchman is a philosopher now; it may be necessary here torecollect, that there are gradations in philosophy.

Since the Revolution, monarchs and courts are not quite so respectfullymentioned in books as they were formerly. The following few examples aretaken fromMr. du Laure's Curiosities of Paris, in two volumes, 1791,[59]third edition.[17] "Louis XIV. has his bust in almost every street inParis. After the most trifling reparation of a street it was customaryto place his great wig-block (tête à perruque) there. The saints havenever obtained such multiplied statues. That bully (Fanfaron) asChristina, Queen of Sweden, used to call him, wanted to be adored evenin turn-again alleys (culs-de-Sac.") Courtiers are here termedcanaille de la cour (the rabble of the court;) the former aldermen ofParis (echevins)machines à complimens (complimenting machines;) andmonksdes bourreaux encapuchonnés (cowled executioners.)

All the following articles of information are taken from the same work:The colossal statue ofSt. Christopher is no longer in the church ofNotre-Dame; "He was, without doubt, the greatestSaint Christopherin all[60] France. This ridiculous monument of the taste and devotion ofour ancestors has lately been demolished."

"The court before the porch of this church was considerably enlarged in1748, and at the same time a fountain was destroyed, against whichleaned an old statue, which had successively been judged to be that ofEsculapius, ofMercury, of a Mayor, and of a Bishop of Paris, andlastly, that of J.C."

"Entering the street which leads to thePont-rouge, by the cloistersof this church, the last house on the right, under the arcades, standswhere the canonFulbert, uncle toEloisa, lived. Although it hasbeen several times rebuilt during 600 years, there are still preservedtwo stone medallions, inbasso-relievo, which are said to be the bustsofAbelard andEloisa."

The number of inhabitants in Paris is computed at one million, onehundred and thirty thousand, (including one hundred and fifty[61] thousandstrangers) two hundred thousand of which are, through poverty, exemptfrom the poll-tax, and two hundred thousand others are servants.

In 1790 there were in Paris forty-eight convents of monks, containingnine hundred and nine men; the amount of their revenue was estimated attwo millions, seven hundred and sixty thousand livres; five abbeys orpriories, estimated at six hundred and twelve thousand livres;seventy-four convents of nuns, containing two thousand, two hundred andninety-two women, their income two millions and twenty-eight thousandlivres. When to these we add the revenue of the archbishoprick, and ofthe fifteen collegiate churches, of one million, six thousand and fivehundred livres, we shall have a total of upwards of seven millions oflivres for the former ecclesiastical revenue in Paris only.[18]

In the saloon of theLouvre every other year is an exhibition ofpictures, in the months of August and September.

The cupola of theHalle au Bled, or corn and flour market, is onehundred and twenty feet in diameter; it forms a perfect half circle,[63]whose centre is on a level with the cornice, forty feet from the ground.The vault or dome is composed merely of deal boards, four feet long, onefoot broad and an inch thick.[20]

Describing the church ofSt. John of the Minstrels, so called, becauseit was founded by a couple of fidlers, in 1330.M. du Laure says,"Among the figures of saints with which the great door is decorated, oneis distinguished who would play very well on the fiddle, if hisfiddle-stick were not broken."

The salary of the executioner was eighteen thousand livresper annum;[21]
[64]his office was to break criminals on the wheel, and to inflict
every punishment on them which they were sentenced to undergo.

There are no longer anyEspions de Police, or spies, employed bygovernment. "That army of thieves, of cut-throats, and rascals, kept inpay by the ancient police, was perhaps a necessary evil in the midst ofthe general evil of our old administration. A body of rogues andtraitors could be protected by no other administration than such a oneas could only subsist by crimes and perfidy. Those were the odiousresources of despotism. Liberty ought to make use of simple and openmeans, which justice and morality will never disavow."

There is a school at the point of the isle of St. Louis, in the riverSeine, to teach swimming; persons who chuse to learn in private payfourlouis, those who swim among others, half that sum, or half-crowna lesson; if they are not perfect in that art in a season, (five summermonths) they may attend the following seasongratis.[65]

DRESS. INNS.

THE common people are in general much better clothed than they werebefore the Revolution, which may be ascribed to their not being sogrievously taxed as they were. An English Gentleman who has gone formany years annually from Calais to Paris, remarks, that they are almostas well dressed on working days at present, as they were on Sundays andholidays formerly.

All those ornaments which three years ago were worn of silver, are nowof gold. All the women of the lower class, even those who sit behindgreen-stalls, &c. wear gold ear-rings, with large drops, some of whichcost two or threelouis, and necklaces of the same. Many of the menwear plain gold ear-rings; those worn by officers and other gentlemenare[66] usually as large as a half-crown piece. Even children of two yearsold have small gold drops in their ears. The general dress of the womenis white linen or muslin gowns, large caps which cover all their hair,excepting just a small triangular piece over the forehead, pomatumed, orrather plaistered and powdered, without any hats: neither do they wearany stays, but onlycorsets (waistcoats or jumps.) Tight lacing is notknown here, nor yet high and narrow heeled shoes. Because many of theladiesci-devant of quality have emigrated or ran away, and that thosewhich remain in Paris, keep within doors, I saw no face that waspainted, excepting on the stage. Most of the men wear coats made likegreat-coats, or in other words, long great-coats, without any coat: thisin fine weather and in the middle of summer made them appear to me likeinvalides. There is hardly any possibility of distinguishing the rank ofeither man or woman by their dress at present, or rather, there are noranks to distinguish.[67]

The nation in general is much improved in cleanliness, and even inpoliteness. The French no longer look on every Englishman as a lord, butas their equal.

The inns on the road fromCalais toParis, are as well furnished,and the beds are as clean at present as almost any in England. AtFlixcourt especially, the beds are remarkably excellent, the furnitureelegant, and there is a profusion of marble and of looking-glasses inthis inn. The plates, dishes, and basons which I saw in cupboards, andon shelves in the kitchen, and which are not in constant use, were allof silver, to which being added the spoons and forks of the same metal,of which the landlord possesses a great number; the ladies and gentlemenwho were with me there, going to and returning from Paris, estimated thevalue at, perhaps, a thousand pounds sterling. Now, if we allow onlyhalf this sum to be the value, it is, notwithstanding, considerable.Every inn I entered was well supplied with silver spoons, of varioussizes, and with silver four pronged forks; even those pettyeating-houses[68] in Paris, which were frequented by soldiers andsans-culottes.

There are no beggars to be seen about the streets in Paris, and when thechaise stopped for fresh horses, only two or three old and infirm peoplesurrounded it and solicited charity, whereas formerly the beggars usedto assemble in hundreds. I did not see a single pair ofsabôts(wooden-shoes) in France this time. The table of the peasants is alsobetter supplied than it was before the revolution.

ASSIGNATS.

EXCEPTING the coins which I purchased at the mint in Paris, I did notsee a piece of gold or silver of any kind; a few brass sols and two solswere sometimes to be found in the coffee-houses, and likewiseMouneron's tokens.[69]

The most commonassignats or bills, are those of fivelivres, whichare printed on sheets; each sheet containing twenty of suchassignats,or a hundredlivres; they are cut out occasionally, when wanted forchange. I do not know that there are any of above a thousandlivres.The lowest in value which I saw were of fivesols, and these were ofparchment. Those of fivelivres and upwards, have the king's portraitstamped on them, like that on the coins.

Besides the nationalassignats, which are current all over France,every town has its ownassignats, of and under, but not above fivelivres; these are only current in such town and its neighbourhood.

Theassignats of and above fivelivres are printed on white paper,those which are under, are for the convenience of the lower class ofpeople, of which few can read, printed on different coloured paperaccording to their value; for instance, those of tensols on blue[70]paper, those of thirty on red, &c. though this method is not correctlyadhered to.

I had projected many excursions in the neighbourhood of Paris, whichwere all put a stop to, in consequence of the events of the tenth ofAugust, of which I shall give a true and impartial narrative, carefullyavoiding every word which may appear to favour either party, and writingnot as a politician, but as a spectator.

I had written many anecdotes, as well aristocratical as democratical,but as I was unable properly to authenticate some of them, and thatothers related to excesses which were inevitable, during such a time ofanarchy, I thought it not proper to prejudice the mind of the public,and have accordingly expunged them all. I have only recounted facts, andthe readers may form their own opinion.

Some particulars relative to the massacre in August, 1572, are insertedto corroborate the description of the similar situation of Paris, inAugust, 1792, though not from similar causes. The[71] execrable massacreabove-mentioned was committed by raging fanatics, cutting the throats oftheir defenceless fellow-creatures, merely for difference in religiousopinion.

BATTLE AND MASSACRE AT THE TUILERIES.

ON Thursday, the 9th of August, the legislative body completed thegeneral discontent of the people, (which had been raised the precedingday, by the discharge of every accusation againstla Fayette) byappearing to protract the question relative to the king'sdéchéance(forfeiture) at a time when there was not a moment to lose, and by notholding any assembly in the evening.

The fermentation increased every minute, in a very alarming manner. Themayor himself had declared to the representatives of the nation, that hecould not answer for the tranquillity[72] of the city after midnight. Everybody knew that the people intended at that hour to ring the alarm-bell;and to go to thechâteau of theTuileries, as it was suspected thatthe Royal Family intended to escape to Rouen, and it is said many trunkswere found, packed up and ready for taking away, and that many carriageswere seen that afternoon in the court-yard of theTuileries.

At eight in the evening thegenerale,(a sort of beat of drum) washeard in all the sections, thetocsin was likewise rung, (an alarm, bypulling the bells of the churches, so as to cause the clappers to giveredoubled strokes in very quick time. Some bells were struck with largehammers.)

All the shops were shut, and also most of the great gates of the hotels;lights were placed in almost every window, and few of the inhabitantsretired to their repose: the night passed however without any otherdisturbance; many of the members of the National Assembly were sittingsoon after midnight,[73] and the others were expected.Mr. Petion, themayor, had been sent for by the king, and was then in thechâteau; thenumber of members necessary to form a sitting, being completed, thetribunes (galleries) demanded and obtained a decree to oblige thechâteau to release its prey, the mayor; he soon after appeared at thebar, and from thence went to thecommune (mansion-house.)

It was now about six o'clock on Friday morning (10th) the people of thefauxbourgs (suburbs) especially ofSt. Antoine andSt. Marcel,which are parted by the river, assembled together on thePlace de laBastille, and the crowd was so great that twenty-five persons weresqueezed to death.[22] At seven the streets were filled with-armedcitizens, that is to say, withfederates (select persons sent from theprovinces to assist at theFederation, or confederacy held last July14) fromMarseille, fromBretagne, with national guards, andParisiansans-culottes, (without breeches, these people[74] havebreeches, but this is the name which has been given to the mob.) Thearms consisted of guns, with or without bayonets, pistols, sabres,swords, pikes, knives, scythes, saws, iron crows, wooden billets, inshort of every thing that could be used offensively.

A party of these met a false patrol of twenty-two men, who, of course,did not know the watch-word. These were instantaneously put to death,their heads cut off and carried about the streets on pikes (on promenaleurs têtes sur des piques.) This happened inla Place Vendôme; theirbodies were still lying there the next day. Another false patrol,consisting of between two and three hundred men, with cannon, wanderedall night in the neighbourhood of thetheatre français: it is saidthey were to join a detachment from the battalion of Henri IV. on thePont-neuf, to cut the throats ofPetion and theMarseillois, whowere encamped on thePont St. Michel (the next bridge to thePont-neuf) which caused the then acting parish assemblies to order anhonorary guard of 400 citizens, who[75] were to be answerable for theliberty and the life of that magistrate, then in the council-chamber.Mandat, commander-general of the National Guard, had affrontedM.Petion, when he came from thechâteau of theTuileries, to go tothe National Assembly; he was arrested and sent to prison immediately.

The insurrection now became general; thePlace du Carrousel (square oftheCarousals, a square in theTuileries, so called from themagnificent festival which Lewis XIV. in 1662, there gave to the queenand the queen-mother) was already filled; the king had not been in bed;all the night had probably been spent in combining a plan of defence, ifattacked, or rather of retreat; soon after seven the king, the queen,their two children (the dauphin, seven years old, and his sisterfourteen) Princess Elizabeth, (the queen's sister, about 50 years old)and the Princessde Lamballe, crossed the garden of theTuileries,which was still shut, escorted by the National Guard, and by all theSwiss, and took refuge in the[76] National Assembly, when the Swissreturned to their posts in thechâteau.

The alarm-bells, which were incessantly ringing, the accounts of thecarrying heads upon pikes, and of the march of almost all Paris in arms;the presence of the king, throwing himself, as it were, on the mercy ofthe legislative body; the fierce and determinate looks of thegalleries; all these things together had such an effect on theNational Assembly, that it immediately decreed the suspension of LewisXVI. which decree was received with universal applause and clapping.

At this moment a wounded man rushed into the Assembly, crying, "We arebetrayed, to arms, to arms, the Swiss are firing on the citizens; theyhave already killed a hundred Marseillois."

This was about nine o'clock. The democrats, that is to say, the armedcitizens, as beforementioned, had dragged several pieces of cannon, sixand four pounders, into thecarousel[77] square, and were assembledthere, on thequais, the bridges, and neighbouring streets, in immensenumbers, all armed; they knew the king was gone to the NationalAssembly, and came to insist on hisdéchéance (forfeiture) orresignation of the throne. All the Swiss (six or seven hundred) came outto them, and permitted them to enter into the court-yard of theTuileries, to the number of ten thousand, themselves standing in themiddle, and when they were peaceably smoking their pipes and drinkingtheir wine, the Swiss turned back to back, and fired a volley on them,by which about two hundred were killed;[23] the women and children ranimmediately into the river, up to their necks, many jumping from theparapets and from the bridges, many were drowned, and many were shot inthe water, and on[78] the balustrades of thePont-royal, from the windowsof the gallery of theLouvre.

The populace now became, as it were, mad, they seized on five cannonthey found in the court yard, and turned them against the château; theyplanted some more cannon on thePont-royal and in the garden,twenty-two pieces in all, and attacked the château on three sides atonce. The Swiss continued their fire, and it is said they fired seventimes to the people's once; the Swiss had 36 rounds of powder, whereasthe people had hardly three or four. Expresses were sent several milesto the powder-mills, for more ammunition, even as far asEssonne,about twenty miles off, on the road toFontainebleau. The peoplecontrived however to discharge their twenty-two cannon nine or tentimes.[24] From nine to twelve the firing was incessant; many waggonsand carts were constantly employed in carrying[79] away the dead to a largeexcavation, formerly a stone quarry, at the back of the new churchdela Madeleine de la ville l'Eveque (part of theFauxbourg St. Honoré,thus called.)

Soon after noon the Swiss had exhausted all their powder, which thepopulace perceiving, they stormed thechâteau, broke open the doors,and put every person they found to the sword, tumbling the bodies out ofthe windows into the garden, to the amount, it is supposed, of about twothousand, having lost four thousand on their own side. Among the slainin thechâteau, were, it is asserted, about two hundred noblemen andthree bishops: all the furniture was destroyed, the looking-glassesbroken, in short, nothing left but the bare walls.

Sixty of the Swiss endeavoured to escape through the gardens, but thehorse (gendarmerie nationale) rode round by the street ofSt.Honoré, and met them full butt at the end of the gardens; the Swissfired, killed five or six and twenty horses and about thirty men, and[80]were then immediately cut to pieces; the people likewise put the Swissporters at thepont-tournant (turning bridge) to death, as well as allthey could find in the gardens and elsewhere: they then set fire to allthecasernes (barracks) in thecarousel, and afterwards got at thewine in the cellars of the château, all of which was immediately drank;many citizens were continually bringing into the National Assemblyjewels, gold, louis d'ors, plate, and papers, and many thieves were, assoon as discovered, instantly taken to lamp irons and hanged by theropes which suspend the lamps. This timely severity, it is supposed,saved Paris from an universal pillage. Fifty or sixty Swiss were hurriedby the populace to thePlace de Grêve, and there cut to pieces.

At about three o'clock in the afternoon every thing was tolerably quiet,and I ventured out for the first time that day.[25]

Thequais, the bridges, the gardens, and the immediate scene of battlewere covered with bodies, dead, dying, and drunk; many wounded and drunkdied in the night; the streets were filled with carts, carrying away thedead, with litters taking the wounded to hospitals; with women andchildren crying for the loss of their relations, with men, women, andchildren walking among and striding over the dead bodies, in silence,and with apparent unconcern; with troops of thesans-culottes runningabout, covered with blood, and carrying, at the end of their bayonets,rags of the clothes which they had torn from the bodies of the deadSwiss, who were left stark naked in the gardens.[26]

One of thesesans-culottes was bragging that he had killed eight Swisswith his own hand. Another was observed lying wounded, all over blood,asleep or drunk, with a gun, pistols, a sabre, and a hatchet by him.[82]

The courage and ferocity of the women was this day very conspicuous; thefirst person that entered theTuileries, after the firing ceased, wasa woman, namedTeroigne, she had been very active in the riots atBrussels, a few years ago; she afterwards was in prison a twelvemonthatVienna, and when she was released, after the death of the Emperor,went toGeneva, which city she was soon obliged to leave; she thencame toParis, and headed theMarseillois; she began by cleaving thehead of a Swiss, who solicited her protection, and who wasinstantaneously cut in pieces by her followers. She is agreeable in herperson, which is small, and is about twenty-eight years of age.

Many men, and also many women, as well of the order ofPoissardes(which are a class almost of the same species and rank with ourfishwomen, and who are easily distinguished by their red cotton bibs andaprons) as others, ran about the gardens, ripping open[83] the bellies, anddashing out the brains of several of the naked dead Swiss.[27]

At six in the evening I saw a troop of national guards andsans-culottes kill a Swiss who was running away, by cleaving his skullwith a dozen sabres at once, on thePont-royal, and then cast him intothe river, in less time than it takes to read this, and afterwards walkquietly on.

The shops were shut all this day, and also the theatres; no coaches wereabout the streets, at least not near the place of carnage; the houseswere lighted up, and patroles paraded the streets all night. Not asingle house was pillaged.[84]

The barracks were still in flames, as well as the houses of the Swissporters at the end of the gardens; these last gave light to five or sixwaggons which were employed all night in carrying away the deadcarcases.

STATUES PULLED DOWN. NEW NAMES.

THE next day, Saturday the 11th, about an hundred Swiss who had not beenin the palace placed themselves under the protection of the NationalAssembly. They were sent to thePalais Bourbon escorted by theMarseillois, withMr. Petion at their head, in order to be tried by acourt-martial.

The people were now employed, some in hanging thieves, others withMademoiselle[85]Teroigne on horseback at their head, in pulling downthe statues of the French Kings.

The first was the equestrian one in bronze of Lewis XV. in the square ofthe same name, at the end of theTuileries gardens; this was the workofBouchardon, and was erected in 1763. At the corners of the pedestalwere the statues, also in bronze, of strength, peace, prudence, andjustice, byPigalle. Many smiths were employed in filing the iron barswithin the horse's legs and feet, which fastened it to the marblepedestal, and thesans-culottes pulled it down by ropes, and broke itto pieces; as likewise the four statues above-mentioned, the pedestal,and the new magnificent balustrade of white marble which surrounded it.

The next was the equestrians statue ofLewis XIV. in thePlaceVendôme, cast in bronze, in a single piece, by Keller, from the modelof Girardon; twenty men might with ease have sat round a table in thebelly of the horse; it stood on a pedestal of white marble of[86] thirtyfeet in height, twenty-four in length, and thirteen in breadth. Thisstatue crushed a man to pieces by falling on him, which must beattributed to the inexperience of thepullers-down.

The third was a pedestrian statue ofLewis XIV. in thePlaceVictoire, of lead, gilt, on a pedestal of white marble; a wingedfigure, representing victory, with one hand placed a crown of laurels onhis head, and in the other held a bundle of palm and olive branches. Theking was represented treading onCerberus and the whole group was asingle cast. There were formerly four bronze slaves at the corners ofthe pedestal, each of twelve feet high; these were removed in 1790. Thewhole monument was thirty-five feet high, and was erected in 1689, atthe expence of the Dukede la Feuillade, who likewise left his duchyto his heirs, on condition that they should cause the whole group to benew gilt every twenty-five years; and who was buried under thepedestal.[87]

On Sunday the 12th, at about noon, the equestrian statue, in bronze, ofHenry IV. which was on thePont-neuf, was pulled down; this waserected in 1635, and was the first of the kind in Paris. The horse wasbegun at Florence, byGiovanni Bologna, a pupil ofMichael Angelo,finished byPietro Tacca, and sent as a present toMary of Medicis,widow ofHenry IV. Regent. It was shipped atLeghorn, and the vesselwhich contained it was lost on the coast of Normandy, nearHavre deGrace, the horse remained a year in the sea, it was, however, got outand sent to Paris in 1614.

This statue used to be the idol of the Parisians; immediately after therevolution it was decorated with the national cockade; during threeevenings after the federation, in 1790, magnificent festivals werecelebrated before it.

It was broken in many pieces by the fall; the bronze was not half aninch thick, and[88] the hollow part was filled up with brick earth.

The fifth and last was overthrown in the afternoon of the same day; itwas situated in thePlace Royale; it was an equestrian statue inbronze, of Lewis XIII. on a vast pedestal of white marble; it waserected in 1639. The horse was the work ofDaniel Volterra; the figureof the king was byBiard.

The people were several days employed in pulling down all the statuesand busts of kings and queens they could find. On the Monday I saw amarble or stone statue, as large as the life, tumbled from the top oftheHôtel de Ville into thePlace de Grêve, at that time full ofpeople, by which two men were killed, as I was told, and I did not wishto verify the assertion myself, but retired.

They then proceeded to deface and efface every crown, everyfleur delis, every inscription wherein the words king, queen, prince, royal, orthe like, were found. The hotels[89] and lodging-houses were compelled toerase and change their names, that of thePrince de Galles must becalledde Galles only; that ofBourbon must have a new name; a signau lys d'or (the golden lily) was pulled down; even billiard tablesare no longernoble orroyal.

ThePont-royal, the new bridge ofLewis XVI. thePlace desVictoires, thePlace Royal, theRue d'Artois, &c. have all newnames, which, added to the division of the kingdom into eighty-threedepartments, abolishing all the ancient noble names ofBourgogne,Champagne, Provence, Languedoc, Bretagne, Navarre, Normandie, &c. andin their stead substituting such as these:Ain, Aube, Aude, Cher,Creuse, Doubs, Eure, Gard, Gers, Indre, Lot, Orne, Sarte, Tarne, Var,&c. which are the names of insignificant rivers; to that of Paris intoforty-eight new sections, and to all titles being likewise abolished,makes it very difficult for a stranger to know any thing about thegeography of the kingdom, nor what were[90] theci-devant titles of suchof the nobility as still remain in France, and who are at present onlyknown by their family names.

BEHEADING. DEAD NAKED BODIES.

BUT to return to those "active citizens, whom aristocratic insolence hasstiledsans-culottes, brigands."[28]

On Sunday, they dragged a man to theHôtel de Ville, before amagistrate, to be tried, for having stolen something in theTuileriesas they said. He was accordingly tried, searched, and nothing beingfound on him, was acquitted;n'importe, said these citizens,[91] we musthave his head for all that, for we caught him in the act of stealing.They laid him on his back on the ground, and in the presence of thejudge, who had acquitted him, they sawed off his head in about a quarterof an hour, with an old notched scythe, and then gave it to the boys tocarry about on a pike, leaving the carcase in the justice-hall.[29]

At the corner of almost every chief street is a black marble slab,inserted in the wall about ten feet high, on which is cut in largeletters, gilt,Loix et actes de l'autorité publique (laws and acts ofthe public authority) and underneath are pasted the daily and sometimeshourly decrees and notices of the National Assembly. One of theseacquainted the citizens, thatMandat (the former commander-general ofthe national guards) had yesterday undergone the punishment due to[92] hiscrimes; that is to say, the people had cut off his head.

During several days, afterthe day I procured all the Parisnewspapers, about twenty, but all on the same side, as the people hadput the editors of the aristocratic papers,hors d'état de parler(prevented their speaking) by beheading one or two of them, anddestroying all their presses.

They, about this time, hanged two money changers (people who gave paperforlouis d'or, crowns, and guineas) under the idea that the money wassent to the emigrants.

On the Saturday morning, at seven, I was in theTuileries gardens;only thirty-eight dead naked bodies were still lying there; they werehowever covered where decency required; the people who stript them onthe preceding evening, having cut a gash in the belly, and left a bit ofthe shirt sticking to the carcase by means of the dried blood. I wastold, that the body of a lady had just been carried out of[93] theCarousel square; she was the only woman killed, and that probably byaccident. Here I had the pleasure of seeing many beautiful ladies (andugly ones too as I thought) walking arm in arm with their male friends,though so early in the morning, and forming little groups, occupied incontemplating the mangled naked and stiff carcases.

The fair sex has been equally courageous and curious, in former times,in this as well as in other countries; and of this we shall produce afew instances, as follows:

COURAGE AND CURIOSITY OF THE FAIR SEX. MASSACRE IN 1572.

ON the 24th of August, St. Bartholemew's day, 1572, the massacre of theHugonots or[94] or Calvinists, began by the murder of AdmiralColigni thesignal was to have been given at midnight; butCatherine of Medicis,mother to the then King Charles IX. (who was only two and twenty yearsof age)hastened the signal more than an hour, and endeavoured toencourage her son, by quoting a passage from a sermon: "What pity do wenot shew in being cruel? what cruelty would it not be to have pity?"

InMr. Wraxall's account of this massacre, in hisMemoirs of theKings of France of the Race of Valois, compiled from all the Frenchhistorians, he says,Soubise, covered with wounds, after a long andgallant defence, was finally put to death under the queen-mother'swindows. The ladies of the court, from a savage and horrible curiosity,went to view his naked body, disfigured and bloody.

"An Italian first cut offColigni's head, which was presented toCatherine of Medicis. The populace then exhausted all their brutal andunrestrained fury on the trunk. They cut off the hands, after which itwas left on a dunghill;[95] in the afternoon they took it up again, draggedit three days in the dirt, then on the banks of theSeine, and lastlycarried it toMontfaucon (an eminence between theFauxbourg St.Martin and theTemple, on which they erected a gallows.) It was herehung by the feet with an iron chain, and a fire lighted under it, withwhich it was half roasted. In this situation the King and several of thecourtiers went to survey it. These remains were at length taken downprivately in the night, and interred atChantilly."

"During seven days the massacre did not cease, though its extreme furyspent itself in the two first."

"Every enormity, every profanation, every atrocious crime, which zeal,revenge, and cruel policy are capable of influencing mankind to commit,stain the dreadful registers of this unhappy period. More than fivethousand persons of all ranks perished by various species of deaths. TheSeine was loaded with carcases floating on it, andCharles fed his[96]eyes from the windows of theLouvre, with this unnatural andabominable spectacle of horror. A butcher who entered the palace duringthe heat of the massacre, boasted to his sovereign, baring his bloodyarm, that he himself had dispatched an hundred and fifty."

"Catherine of Medicis, the presiding demon, who scattered destructionin so many shapes, was not melted into pity at the view of suchcomplicated and extensive misery; she gazed with savage satisfaction onthe head ofColigni which was brought her."

Sully only slightly mentions this massacre of which he wasnotwithstanding an eye-witness, because he was but twelve years of age.

Mezeray gives the most circumstantial account of it; he says, "Thestreets were paved with dead or dying bodies, theportes-cochêres,(great gates of the hotels) were stopped up with them, there were heapsof them in the public squares, the street-kennels overflowed[97] withblood, which ran gushing into the river. Six hundred houses werepillaged at different times, and four thousand persons were massacredwith all the inhumanity and all the tumult than can be imagined."

"Among the slain wasCharles de Quelleue Pontivy, likewise calledSoubise, because he had marriedCatherine, only daughter and heiressofJean de Partenay Baronde Soubise: this Lady had entered anaction against him for impotence; His naked dead body being among othersdragged before theLouvre, there were ladies curious enough to examineleisurely, if they could discover the cause or the marks of the defeatof which he had been accused."

Brantome, in his memoirs ofCharles IX. says, "As soon as it was daythe king looked out of the window, and seeing that many people wererunning away in thefauxbourg St. Germain, he took a large huntingarquebuse, and shot at them many times, but in vain, for the gun didnot carry so far."[30]

"He took great pleasure in seeing floating in the river, under hiswindows, more than four thousand dead bodies."

A French writer,Mr. du Laure, in a Description of Paris, justpublished, says, "About thirty thousand persons were killed on thatnight in Paris and in the country; few of the citizens but were eitherassassins or assassinated. Ambition, the hatred of the great, of awoman, the feebleness and cruelty of a king, the spirit of party, thefanaticism of the people, animated those scenes of horror, which do notdepose so much against the French nation, at that time governed bystrangers, as against the passions of the great, and the ill-directedzeal of the religion of an ignorant populace."

MISCELLANIES. NUMBER OF SLAIN.

ON that same Saturday morning the dead Swiss, the broken furniture ofthe palace, and the burning woodwork of the barracks, were all gatheredtogether in a vast heap, and set fire to. I saw this pile at twenty orthirty[100] yards distance, and I was told that some of the women who werespectators took out an arm or a leg that was broiling, to taste: this Ididnot see, but I see no reason fornot believing it.

On the afternoon of this day, the coffee-houses were, as usual, filledwith idle people, who amused themselves with playing at the baby-game ofdomino.

No coaches except fiacres (hackney-coaches) were now to be seen aboutthe streets; the theatres continued on the following mornings toadvertise their performances, and in the afternoon fresh advertisementswere pasted over these, saying, there would berelâche au theatre(respite, intermission.) A few days after, some of the theatresadvertised to perform for the benefit of the families of the slain, butfew persons attended the representation, through fear; because thesans-culottes talked of pulling down all the theatres, which, theysaid,gataient les mœurs, (corrupted the morals) of the people.[101]

Ever since the 10th, I knew the barriers had been guarded, to preventany person from leaving Paris, but I now was informed that that had beenthe case, three days previous to that day, which may seem to imply thatsome apprehensions were formed, that violent measures would take placesomewhere.

About this time the officers were obliged by thesans-culottes to wearworsted instead of gold or silver shoulder-knots; and no morecloudycarriages were to be seen in the streets.

Portraits of the king, with the body of a hog, and of the queen, withthat of a tygress were engraven and publicly sold. A book was published,entitled,Crimes of Louis XVI. the author of which advertised that hewas then printing a book of theCrimes of the Popes, after which heintended to publish the crimes of all the potentates in Europe.

As I could not get out of Paris, to make any little excursions tonursery and other gardens,[102] toVincennes, toMontreuil, and as theinhabitants of Paris were too much alarmed to retain any relish forsociety, (public places out of the question,) I was desirous of gettingaway as soon as possible, and applied first to the usual officers for apass, which was refused. That ofLord Gower (the ambassador) was atthis time of no use, but it became so afterwards, as shall be mentioned.

On the Monday (13th August) I wrote a letter of about ten lines to thePresident of the National Assembly, soliciting a pass. This I carriedmyself, and sent it in by one of the clerks. The President immediatelyread the letter, and the Assembly decreed a pass for me; but the nextday, when I applied for it to thecomité de surveillance, (committeeof inspection) it, or they, knew nothing of the matter. I then went tothemairie (mayoralty house) but in vain.

Here an officer of the national guard who had been present during thewhole of the battle of the 10th, said to me, "La journeé a[103]eté un peuforte, nous avons eu plus de quinze cens des notres de tués," (the daywas rather warm; we have had more than fifteen hundred of our own peoplekilled.) This was confirmed by many more of the officers there, withwhom I had a quarter of an hour's conversation, and they all estimatedthe number of the slain at above six thousand, which may probably beaccounted for in the following manner, but a demonstration isimpossible.

Some assert that there were eight hundred Swiss soldiers in thechâteau of theTuileries; others but five hundred: let us take themedium of six hundred and fifty. They had, as every one allows, six andthirty charges each, and they fired till their ammunition was expended.This makes above three and twenty thousand shot, every one of which musthave taken place, on a mob as thick as hailstones after a shower: butallowing for the Swiss themselves, who were killed during theengagement, which diminishes the number of shot, and then allowinglikewise, that of two thousand persons who were in the palace, we here[104]say nothing of the remaining thirteen or fourteen hundred, most of whomwere firing as well as they could, perhaps it may not appear exaggeratedto say, that out of above twenty thousand shot, four thousand must havetaken place mortally; and this includes the fifteen hundred of thenational guard, which werecertainly known to be missing. Of the othertwo thousand five hundred slain, the number could not so correctly beascertained, as they consisted of citizens without regimentals oruniform, and ofsans-culottes, none of whom were registered. All thepersons in the palace were killed; of these, few, if any, were takenaway immediately, whereas when any of the adverse party were killed,there were people enough who were glad of the opportunity of escapingfrom this slaughter, by carrying away the corpse. We must then reflecton the number of waggons and carts employed all night in the sameoffices, and then we shall see great reason to double the number of theslain, as has been done in various publications.[105]

No idea of this number could be formed by seeing the field of battle,because several bodies were there lying in heaps, and of the others notabove two or three could be seen at a time, as the streets were afterthe engagement filled with spectators, who walked among and over thecarcases.

Of the feelings of these spectators, I judge by my own: I might perhapshave disliked seeing a single dead body, but the great numberimmediately reconciled me to the sight.

BREECHES. PIKES. NECESSARY PASSPORTS.

ANOTHER particular relative to thesans-culottes is their standard,being an old pair of breeches, which they carry on the top of a pike,thrust through the waistband: thepoissardes likewise use the samestandard,[106] though it so happened that I never saw it. On the memorable20th of June last, a pike-man got on the top of the Tuileries, where hewaved the ensign, or rather shook the breeches to the populace.

The pike-staves for the army are of different lengths; of six, nine, andtwelve feet: by this means three ranks of pike-bearers can use theirarms at once, with the points of the three rows of pikes evenlyextended.

The letter which I had written to the President, notwithstanding itseventual ill success, caused several English persons jointly to write asomewhat similar letter; in which, after having represented that theirwives and childrenwanted them, they said, they hoped their reasonswould appearvrai-semblables, or have the semblance of truth. TheAssembly on hearing this burst into a laugh, and passed on to the orderof the day.

On the 16th I carried a passport fromLord Gower to the office ofMr.le Brun, the minister[107] for foreign affairs; here I was told to leaveit, and I should have another in its stead the next day. The next day Iapplied for it, and was told, no passports could be delivered.

The matter now appeared to me to become serious, as the courier who hadcarried the account of the affair of the 10th to London was not yetreturned, and that rumours were spread, that the English in Paris werealmost allgrands seigneurs & aristocrates; so that I saw only twoprobable means of safety; one of which was, to draw up a petition to theNational Assembly, in behalf of all the British subjects, to get itsigned by as many as I could find, and who might chuse to sign it, andto carry it to the Assembly in a small body, which might have been themeans of procuring a pass; and in case this was refused, the other planwould have been for all the British to have incorporated themselves intoaLegion Britannique, and offered their services according to theexigence of the case.[32] This petition[108] was accordingly, on the 18th,drawn up by a member of the English Parliament; translated into French,and carried about to be signed; when at the bankers we fortunately metwith a person who informed us, that our passes were ready at the moment,atMr. Le Brun's: thither we went; I obtained my pass at two o'clockafternoon, the petition was torn and given to the winds; I took ahackney coach that instant, to carry me to thePoste aux chevaux,ordered the horses, and before three I was out of the barriers of Paris.

At the top of the paper is an engraving of a shield, on which isinscribedVivre libre ou mourir (live free or die,) supported by twofemale figures, thedexter representingMinerva standing, with thecap of liberty at the end of a pike; thesinister, the Frenchconstitution personified as a woman sitting on a lion, with one handholding a book, on which is writtenConstitution Française, droits del'homme, and with the other supporting a crown over the[109] shield, whichcrown is effaced by a dash with a pen.

La nation, la loi, le roi; this is also obliterated
with a pen, and instead is written:

Liberté, Egalité
Au nom de la nation.

À tous officiers, civils et militaires, chargés de surveiller et demaintenir l'ordre public dans les differents departemens du Royaume, età tous autres qu'il appartiendra il est ordonné de laisser librementpasserT—— anglais retournant en angleterre, porteur d'un certificatde son ambassadeur.[33] Sans donner ni souffrir qu'il lui soit donnéaucun empéchement, le present passe-port valable pourquinze joursseulement.

Here is an impression, in red wax, of the arms of Paris, which aregules, a three-mast ship in full sail, a chiefazur,semé withfleurs de lis, or, the shield environed with oak branches and the capof liberty as a crest. The inscription underneath isMairie de Paris,1789. On one side of this seal is an escutcheon with the arms of France,crowned, and over the crown there is a dash with a pen. And underneath,

MISCELLANIES. DANCING. POULTRY. TAVERNS. WIG.

SOME days before the demolition of the statue ofHenri IV. on thePont-neuf, there was a flag placed near that statue, on which waspaintedcitoyens la Patrie est en danger; (citizens, themother-country is in danger) and it still remained there when I cameaway.[112]

On the Monday afterthe Friday, I saw a paper on the walls, amongthose published by authority, wherein a person acquainted the public,that on the preceding Saturday, in consequence of some suspicions whichhad been entertained of his principles, his house had been visited byabove thirty thousand persons;[34] and that notwithstanding masons andsmiths had been employed in pulling down, breaking open andscrutinizing, the people hadfound nothing to criminate him, and hehadfound nothing missing in consequence of their scrutiny. I had thepleasure of reading this aloud to an assemblage of elderly ladies, notone of whom could see to read it, as it was placed out of theirfocus,or too high, as they said.

Before the 10th I saw several dancing parties of thePoissardes andsans-culottes in the beer-houses, on theQuai des Ormes and theQuai St. Paul, and have played the favourite and animating air ofçaira, on the fiddle, to[113] eight couple of dancers; the ceiling of theserooms (which open into the street) is not above ten feet high, and onthis ceiling (which is generally white washed) are the numbers 1 2 to 8,in black, and the same in red, which mark the places where the ladiesand gentlemen are to stand. When the dance was concluded I requested theladies to salute me (m'embrasser) which they did, by gently touchingmy cheek with their lips. But a period was put to all these amusementsby the occurrences of the 10th; after which day, most of my time wasemployed in endeavouring to obtain a passport.

On theQuai des Augustins, at six or seven in the morning, may be seena market of above a quarter of a mile long, well stocked with fowls,pigeons, ducks, geese and turkies: these birds are all termedVolaille. Rabbits are likewise sold in this market. I also saw here afew live pheasants, red-legged partridges and quails in cages, forsale.[114]

I did not see alouis d'or this time in Paris, it is probable that anew golden coin may be struck of a different value and name, andwithout the name of the die-engraver.

There are few, if any,tables d'hôte (ordinaries) in Paris at present,except at the inns. I have not seen any for many years, because the hourof dining at them is about one o'clock, and that is customary to beserved in those coffee-houses which are kept byrestaurateurs andtraiteurs (cooks) after the English manner, at small tables, and thereare bills of fare, with the prices of the articles marked. The mostcelebrated of these houses is calledla Taverne de Londres, in thegarden of thePalais-Royal: here are large public rooms, and also manysmall ones, and a bill of fare printed on a folio sheet, containingalmost every sort of provision, (carp, eels, and pickled salmon are theonly fish I have seen there.) An Englishman may here have hisbeef-steak, plum-pudding, Cheshire cheese, porter and punch just as inLondon, and at about the same price, (half the price as the exchange[115]then was.) Thirty-five sorts of wine are here enumerated. That ofTokay is at twolivres for a small glass, of which a quart-bottlemay contain about fifteen.Rhenish, Mountain, Alicante, Rota, and redFrontignan at 6 livres.Champagne, Claret, Hermitage, 4l. 10f.Port 3l. 10f.Burgundy 3l.Porter 2l. 10f. Most of thedishes are of silver, and I dined at two or three other taverns whereall the dishes and plates were of silver.

The barbers or hair-dressers have generally written on their signIcion rajeunit: rajeunir means properly to colour or die the hair, but inthis instance it only expresses, here people are made to look youngerthan they are, by having their hair dressed. I saw a peruke-maker's signrepresenting the fable ofthe man and his two wives, thus: Amiddle-aged gentleman is fitting in a magnificent apartment, between anold lady and a young one, fashionably dressed. His head is entirelybald, the old lady having just pulled out the black hairs, as the youngone did the grey: and Cupid is flying over his head, holding a niceperiwig ready to put on it.[116]

EXTENT, POPULATION, &C. OF FRANCE.

THE authorities for a great part of what follows areMr. Rabaut'sHistory of the Revolution, 1792;Mr. du Laure's Paris, 1791,Geographie de France, 1792, second edition, andVoyage dans lesDepartemens de la France, 1792.

France is a country which extends nine degrees from North to South, andbetween ten and eleven from East to West, making six and twenty thousandsquare leagues, and containing twenty-seven millions of people. In 1790,"There were four millions of armed men in France; three of thesemillions wore the uniform of the nation." The number of warriors, orfighting men is very considerably increased since that time.

"In this immense population is found at least three millions ofindividuals of[117] different religions, whom the present catholicks lookupon with brotherly eyes. The protestant and the catholick now embraceeach other on the threshold whereColigni was murdered; and thedisciples ofCalvin invoke the Eternal after their manner, within afew paces [35] of the balcony from whenceCharles IX. shot at hissubjects."

The capital, when compared to London, for extent is as 264 to 195,(nearly as 7 to 5) that[118] is to say, according to the calculationbeforementioned (p. 28) Paris stands on 6⁹⁹/₁₂₁ square miles of ground,and London on 5³⁵/₉₆₈.

It contains a million and 130 thousand inhabitants, which is fiftythousand more than it did two years ago; these formerly inhabitedVersailles, and left it at the time the court did.

Marseille, the most populous, in proportion to the size, of any cityin Europe, contains, in a spot of little more than three miles incircumference, 120 thousand persons, which includes about 30,000mariners on board of the ships in the harbour.[36]

Bordeaux, 100,000. The population of many more cities is given in anote,[37] besides which there are others, the number of whoseinhabitants I cannot learn, such asToulouse, Toulon, Brest, Orange,Blois, Avignon, &c.

The nation gains five millions sterlingper annum by the reduction ofits expences, and by not having any unnecessary clergymen tomaintain,[38] and the forfeited estates[120] of the emigrants are estimatedat immense sums.[39]

The heavy taxes on salt (la gabelle) and on Tobacco are suppressed,and those two articles are allowed to be objects of commerce.[40]

"No city in the world can offer such a spectacle as that of Paris,agitated by some great passion, because in no other the communication isso speedy, and the spirits so[121] active. Paris contains citizens from allthe provinces, and these various characters blended together compose thenational character, which is distinguished by a wonderful impetuosity.Whatever they will do is done." Witness the taking of theBastille ina single day, which had formerly withstood the siege of a whole armyduring three and twenty days. And witness the 10th of August.

I have been frequently told by persons in England, that a regular anddisciplined army may easily crush a herd of raw and inexperiencedrabble, such as they supposed the French were, although ten times morenumerous. This may possibly be the event in small numbers, but if westate the case with large numbers, for instance fifty thousand men ofthe greatest courage, and of the most perfect discipline, and who arefighting for pay, without any personal motive, against five hundredthousand men, whom we shall suppose utterly ignorant of the art of war,but who conceive they are fighting for their liberty and their country,for their families[122] and their property, and then reflect on the courageand bravery of these very men, on their impetuosity, theiracharnement, or desperate violence in fight, which may be compared tothe irresistible force of water-spouts, and of whirlwinds, it may notappear too partial to conjecture, that such persons may perceive somelittle reason for suspending, if not for altering, their opinion,[41]and may[123] now estimate the degree of danger this nation may apprehendfrom the attacks of extraneous powers,provided its own people areunanimous.

EMENDATIONS AND ADDITIONS. RETURN TO CALAIS.

THE paragraph at the bottom of page 11, is intended to be merelydescriptive, but not ludicrous, so that the reader is requested toexpunge the wordnight.

In the enumeration of the Bishopricks (page 14) I unaccountably omittedthe ten metropolitan sees, which are those ofParis, Lyon, Bourdeaux,Rouen, Reims, Besançon, Bourges, Rennes, Aix andToulouse: Thus thereare eighty-three bishopricks, or one for each department.[124]

After what is said (in page 89) relative to the division of the country,there should, in justice, be added: "To the confused medley ofBailiwicks, Seneschal-jurisdictions, Elections, Generalities, Dioceses,Parliaments, Governments, &c. there succeeded a simple and uniformdivision; there were no longer any provinces, but only one family, onenation: France was the nation of eighty-three departments."Notwithstanding this, I regret the ancientnames of the provinces. TheoldAtlas of France is become useless, as the whole of its geographyis altered. The land is at present divided into nine regions, and eachof these into nine departments; Paris and the country about ten milesaround (24 square leagues) forms one, and the Island ofCorsicaanother department. In the modernAtlas, after every new name, is putci-devant, and then the old name, thus:Region du Levant, departementde la côte d'or, ci-devant Bourgogne. I called one day, after dining ina tavern, for a bottle of wine of theDepartement de l'Aube, Region desSources, the landlord consulted hisAtlas, and then[125] brought thebottle ofChampagne I required. It will be some time before foreignersare sufficiently familiarized to the new phrases which must be used forGascon, Normand, Breton, Provençal, Picard, &c.[42]

"During fourteen hundred years, priority in follies, in superstition, inignorance, in fanaticism, and in slavery, was the picture of France. Itwas just, therefore, that priority in philosophy, and in knowledge,should succeed to so many odious pre-eminences."[126]

"The French people, to whom liberty is now new, are like the waves ofthe sea, which roll long after the tempest has ceased: and of which theagitation is necessary to depose on the shores the scum which coversthem."

"The confusion inseparable from a new order of things, has necessarilycaused Paris to swarm with vagabonds; so that far from being surprizedthat some crimes have been committed, we ought rather to wonder thatthey are not more frequent."

"WhenLouis XVI. was brought back to Paris (25 June, 1791) theinhabitants offauxbourgs pasted a placard (advertisement) against thewalls, saying, 'Whoever applauds him shall be cudgelled, whoever attackshim shall be hanged.' An awful silence was observed."

After the account of the Pantheon (p. 28) should be added: In April,1791, the body orMirabeau was deposited here; and in July followingthat ofVoltaire. Soon after this[127] it was decreed, thatRousseau hadmerited the honours due to great men, but that his ashes should remainwhere they were.

To the lift of engravings of theMaiden must be added another,prefixed to a little tract, calledGibbet-Law.

Bypremier An de l'Egalité,(first year of Equality) it is not to beunderstood that every person in France is equal, but that as they haveno sovereign, no person is above, but every person is equally under theprotection of the law. This matter has been both misunderstood andmisrepresented in England.

On the 18th I was out of the barriers of Paris by three in theafternoon, and proceeded toChantilly, where we [43] arrived at nine,[128]and remained for the night. We were informed that two hundredSans-culottes andMarseillois had walk'd here from Paris, (28 miles)two or three days before, had pulled down an equestrian statue,(probably that of the Constablede Montmorenci) cut off a man's head,carried it about the streets on a pike,à la mode de Paris, caught andeat most of the carp which had been swimming in the ponds which surroundthe palace above a hundred years, were then in the stables and intendedto return to Paris the next day. They did no other damage to thebuilding than breaking theCondé arms, which were carved in stone.

The night of the next day we passed atFlixcourt, and that of theMonday at the Post-house, at the foot of the hill on whichBoulogne issituated.

On Tuesday the 21st we arrived at Calais in the morning; the wind was soviolent and unfavorable that we were detained here till the 24th, whenwe failed, and had a passage of seven hours to Dover.[129]

There was nothing to remark on the road from Paris to Calais, exceptthat the harvest was not yet got in, for want of hands, that the cornwaslodged, and sowing itself again; that every person and thing wasas quiet as if nothing had happened in Paris, and that no one knew theparticulars of whathad happened.

EPILOGUE.

SOON after my return to London the two following paragraphs appeared inthe newspapers.

This I insert merely on account of the Bêtise of the quotation. TheDutch inscription on sticks of sealing-wax would have been asapplicable.

I suspect that the ingenious Genius who wrote this knew he was mistakingas to the former part of this paragraph. He may sayTrippist now.

I should not have seen either of these, had they not been pointed out tome by some of my "damned good-natured friends." I am in hopes of seeinga number of very pretty criticisms on the foregoing pages; many passageswere written purposely to catch critics, as honey catches gnats; ifjust, they[131] shall be attended to, should there be another edition; andif they are merely absurd, they shall be collected, and faithfullypresented to the gentle reader. I have told the truth, and have not "setdown aught in malice."

*** There are a few trifling typographical errors in the foregoingsheets, which I shall leave to the correction of the reader, as not oneof them affects the sense.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] A post is about two leagues, or between four and six miles,as the posthouses are not exactly at the same distance from each other.

[2] It is about five square miles, or rather, eight miles inlength from two to four miles in breadth.

[3] This was written after I had become familiarized to pikes.

[4] TheRotunda D'Orleans, in this wall, at the back of thegardens of theci-devant Duke of that name is worthy of observation.

[5] In 1788 the school was suppressed, the scholars were placedin the army, or in country colleges, and the building is intended, whenthe necessary alterations are completed, to be one of the four hospitalswhich are to replace that of theHôtel-Dieu. This hospital is in sucha bad situation, being in the midst of Paris, that a quarter of thepatients die. It contains only two thousand beds; each of the four newhospitals is to contain twelve hundred beds.

[6] There is to be a new coinage without the king's profile,and it is to be hoped these wings, or rather the whole figure, will beleft out.

[7] This article is, "The law has the right of prohibiting onlythose actions which are hurtful to society."

[8] This and the formerechanger, &c. andremboursable, &c.appear to be superfluous.

[9] TheseBoulevarts were made in 1536, and planted with fourrows of trees in 1668; these beautiful walks are too well known to bedescribed here; they are 2400Toises (4800 yards, or almost threemiles) long. The South Boulevarts are planted in the same manner, werefinished in 1761, and are 3683Toises, or fathom (above four miles) inlength.

[10] Mr. Pennant, in the second volume of his Tour in Scotland,has given a long account of such a machine, from which the followingparticulars are taken. "It was confined to the limits of the forest ofHardwick, or the eighteen towns and hamlets within its precincts. Theexecution was generally at Halifax; Twenty five criminals sufferedduring the reign of Queen Elizabeth; the records before that time werelost. Twelve more were executed between 1623 and 1650, after which it issupposed the privilege was no more exerted.——This machine is nowdestroyed, but there is one of the same kind, in a room under theParliament house, at Edinburgh, where it was introduced by the RegentMorton, who took a model of it as he passed through Halifax, and atlength suffered by it himself. It is in form of a painters easel, andabout ten feet high: at four feet from the bottom is a cross-bar, onwhich the felon laid his head, which was kept down by another placedabove. In the inner edges of the frame are grooves; in these is placed asharp axe, with a vast weight of lead, supported at the summit by a peg;to that peg is fastened a cord, which the executioner cutting, the axefalls, and beheads the criminal. If he was condemned for stealing ahorse or a cow, the string was tied to the beast, which pulled out thepeg and became the executioner."

[11] Mrs. Robinson tells me, that when she was at Paris, a fewyears ago, hervalet de place, came early one morning, informing herthere would be agrand spectacle, and wanted to know if he should hirea place for her. This superb spectacle was no other than the executionof two murderers, who were to be broken alive on the wheel, in the Placede Grêve, on that day. She however says, that she declined going.

[12]Genera plantarum, 798.

[13] The seeds which are sold in the London shops, for those ofthis plant, are those of thehyssopus bracteatis.

[14] These trees are planted as close together as possible,hardly eight feet asunder, and no room is left for any walks, so thatthese gardens are, properly speaking, orange orchards. The oranges werethen sold at the rate of ten for a penny English.

[15] "In 1701 there were born in Hungary two Girls who werejoined together by the loins; they lived above twenty-one years. Atseven years old they were shown almost all over Europe; at nine years ofage a priest purchased them, and placed them in a convent at Petersburg,where they remained till their death, which happened in 1723. An accountof them was found among the papers of the surgeon who attended theconvent, and was sent to the Royal Society of London in 1757. In thisaccount we are told, that one of these twins was calledHelen, theotherJudith.Helen grew up and was very handy,Judith was smallerand a little hump-backed. They were joined together by the reins, and inorder to see each other they could turn their heads only. There was onecommonanus, and of course there was only one common need of going tostool, but each had her separate urinary passage, and separate wants,which occasioned quarrels, because when the weakest was obliged toevacuate, the strongest, who sometimes would not stand still, pulled heraway; they perfectly agreed in every thing else, and appeared to loveeach other. When they were seen in front, they did not differ apparentlyfrom other women. At six years oldJudith lost the use of her leftside by a paralytick stroke; she never was perfectly cured, and her mindremained feeble and dull; on the contrary,Helen was handsome,intelligent and even witty. They had the small-pox and the measles atthe same time, but all their other sicknesses indispositions happened toeach separately.Judith was subject to a cough and a fever, whereasHelen was generally in good health. When they had almost attained theage of twenty-twoJudith caught a fever, fell into a lethargy anddied. PoorHelen was forced to follow her fate; three minutes beforethe death ofJudith she fell into an agony, and died nearly at thesame time. When they were dissected it was found, that each had her ownentrails perfect, and even, that each had a separate excretory conduit,which however terminated at the sameanus."Linnæus has likewisedescribed this monster. Many figures of double children of differentkinds may be seen inLicetus de Monstris, 4to. 1665; and in theMedical Miscellanies, which were printed in Latin at Leipzig, inseveral quarto volumes, in 1673.

[16] Rousseau used to play at chess here almost every day,which attracted such crowds of people to see him, that theLieutenantde Police was obliged to place a sentinel at the door.

[17] The same author has likewise published,HistoricalSingularities of Paris, in a single volume, and a Description of theEnvirons, in two volumes, 1790.

[18] Almost £300,000 sterling, about a tenth part of the Churchincome of the whole kingdom. The establishment for the Royal Family, orCivil List, is said to have been forty millions of livres. Thus theReligion and the Monarch cost one hundred and ten millions of livresannually (about five millions sterling) the greater part of which sum isnow appropriated to other uses. The convents are converted, orperverted, into secular useful buildings, and their inhabitants havebeen suffered to spend the remainder of their lives in their formeridleness, or to marry and mix with society. Annuities have been grantedto them from thirty-five to sixty louis per annum, according to theirage.

[19] 1020 feet by 72. Westminster-bridge is 1220 feet long, butonly 44 feet wide.

[20] The inner diameter of the dome of St. Peter's, at Rome,138 feet, which is the same size as that of the pantheon in Rome. St.Paul's in London 108. The Invalids in Paris 50.

[21] £750 sterling; I know not the present salary.

[22] According to theJournal de la seconde legislature,seance de la nuitiiAoût.

[23] This is asserted on the authority of all the Frenchnewspapers, and of several eye-witnesses. It will never be possible toknow the exact truth, for the people here said to be the aggressors areall slain.—These Swiss had trusted that they would have been backed bythe National Guard, who, on the contrary, took the part of the people,and fired on the Swiss (who ran into the château as soon as they haddischarged their pieces) by which several were killed.

[24] The balls did no other damage to the palace than breakingthe windows, and leaving impressions in the stones, perhaps an inch indepth.

[25] The whole of the foregoing account is taken from verbalinformation, and from all the French papers that could be procured.

[26] Although I was not an eye-witness, I was however anear-witness of the engagement, being only half a mile distant from it.

[27] At the taking of the Bastille, on the day of which onlyeighty-three persons were killed on the spot, though fifteen diedafterwards of their wounds, thesePoissardes were likewise foremost inbravery and in cruelty, so much, that the Parisians themselves ran awayfrom them as soon as they saw them at a distance. They are armed, somewith sabres and others with pikes.

[28] These are the words of a French newspaper, called,Journal universel, ou Revolutions des Royaumes, par J. P. Audarin. No.994, for Sunday, 12 August, 4th year of Liberty, under the motto ofLiberty, Patriotism and Truth.

[29] This is inserted on the authority of a lady, a native ofthe French West-India isles, who resided in the same hotel with me, andwho, with two gentlemen who attended her, were witnesses to thistransaction, which they told to whoever chose to listen.

[30] The king was shooting from theLouvre, and theFauxbourg St.Germain is on the other side of the river.

[31] On the 28th of March, 1757,Damiens, who stabbedLewisXV. was executed in thePlace de Grêve, four horses were to pull hisarms and legs from his body: they were fifty minutes pulling in vain,and at last his joints were obliged to be cut: he supported thesetorments patiently, and expired whilst the tendons of his shoulders werecutting, though he was living after his legs and thighs had been tornfrom his body; his right hand had previously been cut off. I was inParis in 1768, and then, and at various times since have been assured byeye-witnesses, that almost all the windows of the square where theexecution was performed were hired by ladies, at from two to tenlouiseach.

Mr. Thicknesse in his "Year's journey through France and Part ofSpain," in a letter datedDijon, in Burgundy, 1776, mentions a manwhom he saw broke alive on the wheel by, "the executioner andhismother, who assisted at this horrid business, these both seemed toenjoy the deadly office."

I have formerly given an account of the Spanish ladies enjoying thebarbarities of the bull-fights.

[32] Before, and on the 10th of August, there were not abovethirty British travellers in Paris, but after that day, in less than aweek it was supposed that above two thousand had from all parts of thekingdom resorted to the capital, in order to obtain passports to getaway.

[33] What is here in italics is in manuscript in the original.There is noMonsieur norMadame, the wordanglais showing thegender of the person to whom the pass was granted, and is sufficient forthe purpose.

[34]Poco más o menos,(a little more or less) as theSpaniards say when they are complimented withViva V. S. mil años (mayyou live a thousand years.)

[35] The church ofSt. Louis du Louvre is at present made useof as a place of worship by protestants.

All the church lands are reverted to the nation.

In a speech which the AbbéMaury made in the National Assembly, abouttwo years ago, he estimated the value of the property belonging toecclesiasticks in France at two thousand two hundred millions of livres,(Deux milliards deux cens millions) near ninety-two millions sterling,the interest or produce of which, at 3¼ per cent. per annum, amountsto the three millions beforementioned.

France suffices to itself; it contains all the indigenous productions ofEurope.

The French hope, that the number of foreigners who will resort to theircountry, after it shall be more settled, will abundantly compensate theloss of the emigrants.

[36] I was there in 1768, and again in 1783 and 1784, abovefour months. People of all nations are there seen in their properhabits; all languages are spoken; it is a free port, and the staple ofthe Levant trade, as well as of the West-Indian commerce.—There areregular vessels which sail monthly to Constantinople.

[37]Thousand must be read after all the following figures:

Dunkerque	80	Besançon	26	La Rochelle	16
Rouen	73	Aix	25	Poitiers	16
Lille	65	Bourges	25	Auxerre	16
Nantes	60	Tours	22	Perpignan	16
Nismes	50	Arras	22	Chalons	15
Strasbourg	46	Limoges	22	Beauvais	15
Amiens	44	Abbeville	20	Riom	15
Metz	40	Verdun	20	Nevers	14
Caen	40	Arles	20	Boulogne	12
Orleans	40	Dijon	20	Bayonne	12
Rennes	35	Valenciennes	20	Soissons	12
Nancy	34	St. Malo	18	Angoulême	11
Montpellier	32	Beziers	18	Pau	11
Reims	30	Sedan	18	Alby	10
Clermont	30	Carcassonne	18	Alais	10
Troyes	30	Havre de Grace	18	Grasse	10
Grenoble	30	Moulins	17	Versailles	10

[38] By a decree in November, 1789, no curate is to have lesssalary than fiftyLouis per annum, not including his house and garden.Many of the French at present think that clergymen should be retainedlike physicians, and paid by those only who want them. By this means,they say, religious quarrels would be avoided; of all quarrels the mostabsurd, because nobody can understand any thing about the matter."Personne n'y entend rien."

[39] The civil list mentioned in page 62, was according to theold establishment. In January, 1790, the king was requested to fix a sumfor the civil list himself, and in June following he sent a letter tothe National Assembly, demanding five and twenty millions of livres. Itwas decreed that instant.

[40] Salt, which was formerly sold at fourteensols perpound, is now at a single sol. Tobacco is permitted to be cultivated by"whoever will."

[41] I saw many thousands of these men (from my windows) ontheir way to theTuileries, early onthe Friday morning; their marchwas at the rate of perhaps five miles an hour, without running orlooking aside; and this was the pace they used when they carried headsupon pikes, and when they were in pursuit of important business, rushingalong the streets like a torrent, and attending wholly and solely to theobject they had in view. On such occasions, when I saw them approaching,I turned into some cross street till they were passed, not that I hadany thing to apprehend, but the being swept along with the crowd, andperhaps trampled upon. I cannot express what I felt on seeing suchimmense bodies of men so vigorously actuated by the same principle. Isaw also many thousands of volunteers going to join the armies at thefrontiers, marching along theBoulevarts, almost at the same pace,accompanied as far as the Barriers by their women, who were carryingtheir muskets for them; some with large sausages, pieces of cold meat,and loaves of bread, stuck on the bayonets, and all laughing, or singingça ira.

The French writers themselves say, "In all popular commotions the womenhave always shown the greatest boldness."

[42] The author of theVoyage de France says, "The actualdivision of France may appear to geographers as defective as the ancientone. Perhaps artists should have been more consulted. Then there wouldnot have been shown in it so much of the spirit of party, which, ingreat assemblies, too often smothers the voice of reason, nor so manyeffects of the ignorance of political measurers, who lightly stride overbarriers which nature has opposed to them, and who appear to haveforgotten the necessity of communications."

[43] The Gentleman who came with me, an English and an IrishGentleman, with their Ladies, in their own chaises.

There is an octavo Description ofChantilly just published, with amap, and twentymezzotinto views of the gardens.

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Road from Calais, Unneccessary Passports. Chantilly.	1
Expenses	6
Miscellaneous observations. Chess-men. Tree of Liberty. Crucifixes. Virgins. Saints. Bishops, Old Women	8
Wall round Paris. New Bridge. Field of the Federation. Bastille	15
Coins and Tokens	19
Theatres	24
Pantheon. Jacobins. Quai Voltaire. Rue Rousseau. Cockades	27
Execution of two criminals with a beheading machine	32
Versailles. Botany, Sounding meridians	38
Dogs and Cats. Two-headed Boy	50
Dress. Inns	65
Assignats	66
Battle and massacre at the Tuileries	71
Statues pulled down. New names	84
Beheading. Dead naked bodies	90
Courage and curiosity of the fair sex. Massacre in 1572	93
Miscellanies. Number of slain	99
BBreeches. Pikes. Necessary Passports	105
Miscellanies. Dancing. Poultry, Taverns. Wig	111
Extent, Population, &c. of France	116
Emendations and Additions. Return to Calais	123
Epilogue.	129

Greasing the wheels and extra gratifications to drivers, about	32
The fees for seeingChantilly, including the hire of a carriage,	24
Inns on the road, four days and four nights, about	200
	————
	£. 540

Vu passer Abbeville en	Le Brun.
Conseil permanent le 20
Aoust 1792.	Signed by a municipal officer.

Movatterモバイル変換

The Project Gutenberg eBook ofA Trip to Paris in July and August 1792

A

TRIP

TO

P A R I S,

IN

JULY and AUGUST,

1792.

CONTENTS.

A TRIP
TO
PARIS.

ROAD FROM CALAIS. UNNECESSARY PASSPORTS. CHANTILLY.

EXPENCES.

MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. CHESSMEN. TREE OF LIBERTY. CRUCIFIXES,VIRGINS. SAINTS. BISHOPS. OLD WOMEN, &C.

WALL ROUND PARIS. NEW BRIDGE. FIELD OF THE FEDERATION. BASTILLE.

COINS AND TOKENS.

THEATRES.

PANTHEON. JACOBINS. QUAI VOLTAIRE. RUE ROUSSEAU. COCKADES.

EXECUTION OF TWO CRIMINALS, WITH A BEHEADING MACHINE.

VERSAILLES. BOTANY. SOUNDING MERIDIANS.

DOGS AND CATS. TWO-HEADED BOY.

DRESS. INNS.

ASSIGNATS.

BATTLE AND MASSACRE AT THE TUILERIES.

STATUES PULLED DOWN. NEW NAMES.

BEHEADING. DEAD NAKED BODIES.

COURAGE AND CURIOSITY OF THE FAIR SEX. MASSACRE IN 1572.

MISCELLANIES. NUMBER OF SLAIN.

BREECHES. PIKES. NECESSARY PASSPORTS.

MISCELLANIES. DANCING. POULTRY. TAVERNS. WIG.

EXTENT, POPULATION, &C. OF FRANCE.

EMENDATIONS AND ADDITIONS. RETURN TO CALAIS.

EPILOGUE.

FOOTNOTES:

THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE

Movatterモバイル変換

The Project Gutenberg eBook ofA Trip to Paris in July and August 1792

A

TRIP

TO

P A R I S,

IN

JULY and AUGUST,1792.

CONTENTS.

A TRIPTOPARIS.

ROAD FROM CALAIS. UNNECESSARY PASSPORTS. CHANTILLY.

EXPENCES.

MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. CHESSMEN. TREE OF LIBERTY. CRUCIFIXES,VIRGINS. SAINTS. BISHOPS. OLD WOMEN, &C.

WALL ROUND PARIS. NEW BRIDGE. FIELD OF THE FEDERATION. BASTILLE.

COINS AND TOKENS.

THEATRES.

PANTHEON. JACOBINS. QUAI VOLTAIRE. RUE ROUSSEAU. COCKADES.

EXECUTION OF TWO CRIMINALS, WITH A BEHEADING MACHINE.

VERSAILLES. BOTANY. SOUNDING MERIDIANS.

DOGS AND CATS. TWO-HEADED BOY.

DRESS. INNS.

ASSIGNATS.

BATTLE AND MASSACRE AT THE TUILERIES.

STATUES PULLED DOWN. NEW NAMES.

BEHEADING. DEAD NAKED BODIES.

COURAGE AND CURIOSITY OF THE FAIR SEX. MASSACRE IN 1572.

MISCELLANIES. NUMBER OF SLAIN.

BREECHES. PIKES. NECESSARY PASSPORTS.

MISCELLANIES. DANCING. POULTRY. TAVERNS. WIG.

EXTENT, POPULATION, &C. OF FRANCE.

EMENDATIONS AND ADDITIONS. RETURN TO CALAIS.

EPILOGUE.

FOOTNOTES:

THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE

JULY and AUGUST,

1792.

A TRIP
TO
PARIS.