March. The month of reawakening. Cherry blossom appears on the trees, flowers on the vines, and millions of green shoots are pushing their little heads through the soil. Everything seems to come to life.
And it was 39 years ago this month that the manor house of Great Milton in Oxfordshire was reborn as Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons.
We opened the pair of large iron gates on 17th March – St Patrick’s Day – 1984. Since then they have never been closed. In fact, as we celebrate our anniversary, I have flashbacks that are making me smile – my father on a ladder, hard at work, scraping away the rust from the gates before painting them black.
Papa was Le Manoir’s unpaid handyman, and he helped to sort out the tangled wilderness that was our garden. From our family home in Franche-Comté he brought seeds for fabulous varieties of vegetables: Ratte and Belle de Fontenay potatoes; coco and flageolet beans; Marmande tomatoes. All of these were mostly unknown to British gardeners who also tended to think that, when it came to vegetables, big was best. I remember lifting beautiful Nantes carrots from the soil as Richard, the gardener, looked pained. ‘Chef, those carrots aren’t even grown,’ he said. ‘They’re tinier than your little toe…’
Le Manoir’s opening night was not great, I must confess. The service was agonisingly slow and most guests didn’t receive dessert – caramel soufflé – until the early hours of the following day.Et voilà!They laughed, they forgave us, they came back to us. And I am still here to tell the tale.
Every cook loves spring.The season brings beautiful, colourful, excitingingredients.
Hereyou’ll find plenty ofrecipes forfantasticdishes, and I havea few suggestions foryourspringrepertoire…As this is theseasonfor Englishasparagus pleasesee: grilled asparagus withvegetable crumble; poached asparagus with soft-poached egg and mustard dressing.
For an easy, flavoursomestarter(oralight lunch), tryspring vegetable crudités withfresh greenpeavegandip, orwatercress soup. Slow-roasted shoulder of spring lambisthe perfectcelebratorylunch onEaster Sunday (on April 20th).
Orperhapsyou’d prefer chicken with morels – my favouritetype ofmushroom – and sherry sauce.As for desserts,how aboutchocolate mousseorlemon tartorrhubarb soufflé?All of them are delicious. Simply follow my step-by-step recipes. Have fun and bon appétit!
Here are some of the exciting things coming up in my world
An evening to honour the age-old pairing of food and cricket.
Uncover the secrets of the roaring 20s on an unforgettable trip through the British countryside this July.
Check-out the pictures from this unforgettable evening!
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