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Empirical wave runup models implemented in Python for coastal engineers and scientists.

• Installation
• Usage
• Documentation
• Background
• Contributing
• Citation
• License
• References

Installation ofpy-wave-runup can be done with pip:

pip install py-wave-runup

The followingwave runup models are available for use:

• models.Stockdon2006: The most commonly cited and widely used runup model.
• models.Power2018: Based on the Gene-Expression Programming technique.
• models.Holman1986: Incorporated wave setup using Duck, NC measurements.
• models.Nielsen2009: Based on runup measurements from NSW, Australia.
• models.Ruggiero2001: Based on runup measurements from dissipative Orgeon beaches.
• models.Vousdoukas2012: Based on runup from European Atlantic coast
• models.Senechal2011: Based on extreme storm condition at Truc Vert, France
• models.Beuzen2019: Gaussian Process (GP) runup model
• models.Passarella2018: Genetic Programming (infragravity and total) swash model

To get calculate runup, setup and swash, define your offshore conditions in yourselected runup model then you can access each parameter:

frompy_wave_runupimportmodelsmodel_sto06=models.Stockdon2006(Hs=4,Tp=12,beta=0.1)model_sto06.R2# 2.54model_sto06.setup# 0.96model_sto06.sinc# 2.06model_sto06.sig# 1.65

Documentation is located athttps://py-wave-runup.readthedocs.io.

Wave runup refers to the final part of a wave's journey as it travels from offshoreonto the beach. It is observable by anyone who goes to the beach and watches the edgeof the water "runup" and rundown the beach. It is comprised of two components:

• setup: the height of the time averaged superelevation of the mean water levelabove the Still Water Level (SWL)
• swash: the height of the time varying fluctuation of the instantaneous waterlevel about the setup elevation

Setup, swash and other components of Total Water Level (TWL) rise are shown in thishandy figure below.

Figure from Vitousek et al. (2017)[1]

Wave runup can contribute a significant portion of the increase in TWL in coastalstorms causing erosion and inundation. For example, Stockdon et al. (2006)[2]collated data from numerous experiments, some of which showed wave runup 2% excedenceheights in excess of 3 m during some storms.

Given the impact such a large increase in TWL can have on coastlines, there has beenmuch research conducted to try improve our understanding of wave runup processes.Although there are many processes which can influence wave runup (such as nonlinearwave transformation, wave reflection, three-dimensional effects, porosity, roughness,permeability and groundwater)[3], many attempts have been made to deriveempirical relatinoships based on easily measurable parameters. Typically, empiricalwave runup models include:

• Hs: significant wave height
• Tp: peak wave length
• beta: beach slope

This python package attempts to consolidate the work done by others in this field andcollate the numerous empirical relationships for wave runup which have been published.

As there are many different empirical wave models out there, contributions are mostwelcome. If you don't feel confident about changing the code yourself, feel free to openaGithub issue and let us know what could be added. Otherwise, follow the steps belowto create a Pull Request:

1. Fork it (https://github.com/chrisleaman/py-wave-runup/fork)

2. Create the development environment:

   • For pip, runpip install --pre -r requirements.txt
   • Forpoetry, runpoetry install
   • Foranaconda, runconda env create --name <env_name> -f environment.yml

3. Create your feature branch (git checkout -b feature/fooBar)

4. Install pre-commit hooks for automatic formatting (pre-commit run -a)

5. Add your code!

6. Add and run tests (pytest)

7. Update and check documentation compiles (sphinx-build -M html ".\docs" ".\docs\_build")

8. Commit your changes (git commit -am 'Add some fooBar)

9. Push to the branch (git push origin feature/fooBar)

10. Create a new Pull Request

If this package has been useful to you, please cite the following DOI:https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.2667464

Distributed under the GNU General Public License v3.