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Vintage clothing isclothing that originates from a previous era. The termvintage clothing can also be applied in reference to second-handretail outlets, e.g. in "vintage clothing store". While the concept originated during World War I as a response to textile shortages,[1] vintage dressing encompasses choosing accessories, mixingvintage garments with new, as well as creating an ensemble of various styles and periods. Vintage clothes typically sell at low prices forhigh-end name brands.
Vintage clothing can be found in cities at local boutiques or local charities, or on the internet through digital second-hand shopping websites. Vintage fashion has seen a reemergence in popularity within the 21st century due to increased prevalence of vintage pieces in the media and among celebrities, as well as consumer interests in sustainability and slow fashion.[2]
"Vintage" is acolloquialism commonly used to refer to all old styles of clothing. A generally accepted industry standard is that items made between 30 and 100 years ago are considered "vintage" if they clearly reflect the styles and trends of the era they represent. These clothing items come with a sense of history attached to them, which is one of the reasons they are valued by vintage enthusiasts.[3] This sense of history allows consumers to express sentimental nostalgia for fashions of past eras and for aspects not common with modern items like craftsmanship.[4][5]Vintage items are considered different thanantique, which is used to refer to items 100 years old or more.Retro, short for retrospective, or "vintage style," usually refers to clothing that imitates the style of a previous era. Reproduction, or repro, clothing is a newly made copy of an older garment.
Clothing produced more recently is usually calledmodern orcontemporary fashion.
Deadstock refers to merchandise that was withdrawn from sale and warehoused without having been sold to a customer. This is due to the item no longer being in fashion or otherwise outdated or superseded. Such merchandise might once again be in demand and at such point can be returned to sale. Return to sale of fashion merchandise would make it vintage clothing. However, repurposing of deadstock in new products is one way to improvesustainability in thefashion industry.
In the United States, due tochanges in clothing sizes, vintage sizes are often smaller than the corresponding contemporary size. For example, a garment from the 1970s labeled as Medium (M) might be similar in size to a 2010s Extra Small (XS). Vintagesewing patterns offer an option for those who want a historically accurate garment but cannot find one in their size.
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Popular places to buy vintage clothing includecharity-run second-hand clothing shops, thrift stores, consignment shops,garage sales,car boot sales,flea markets, antique markets,estate sales,auctions, vintage clothing shops and vintage fashion,textile or collectables fairs. Specialist vintage clothing shops, such asVirginia byVirginia Bates in London, often attracted high-end customers.
With the rise of the digital world and social media, the consumption of Vintage clothing has rapidly expanded, with e-commerce websites leading to growth in consumer accessibility of vintage pieces.[6] The internet has drastically increased the availability of specific and hard-to-get items and opened up prospective markets for sellers around the world. In the last 20 years, social media in particular has become the most popular medium for consumers to obtain information about, and interact with vintage fashion.[6]
Popular places to acquire garments include online auctions, multi-vendor sites, online vintage clothing shops, specialist forums, and social media sites, where consumers can like, share, and purchase vintage goods from their smartphones.[6] Many vintage clothing shops with physical locations also sell their goods online. In a world filled with fast fashion and "new" being the most popular choice, vintage style has found a way to stay popular. This has a lot to do with celebrities and influencers following this trend, making it a desirable choice for the general public as well. Famous brands, such as Gucci, have made choices like cutting down the number of yearly fashion shows, in order to move the fashion industry toward greater sustainability. The seasonal fashion cycle that the industry has followed for years is being broken down to favor a more environmentally conscious approach to fashion.[7]
Typically in the United States, vintage clothing shops can be found clustered incollege towns and artsy neighborhoods of cities. In contrast tothrift stores that sell both vintage and contemporary used clothing, vintage clothing shops are usually for-profit enterprises, with the market mixed between small chains and independent stores. These stores typically range from 200 to 5,000 square feet in size, and will usually have afitting room. Vintage clothing stores may obtain clothing from individuals in exchange for cash or store credit.
Before the rise of industrial manufacture, construction of most articles of clothing required extensive hand labor. Clothing worn by farmers and laborers was more a matter of practicality than fashion. In order to maximize value, clothing was repaired when worn or damaged, sometimes with layers of patching. Used clothing, in reasonable condition, could betailored for a new owner. When too tattered to repair, an article might have been taken down to scraps for use in aquilt orbraided rag rug, or used as rags for cleaning or dusting.[8]
The term "vintage" in relation to "vintage fashion" and "vintage clothing" was first used in 1997 by Matthew Adams who foundedFrock Me!, the first vintage fashion fair in the UK.
DuringWorld War I, the United States launched a conservation campaign, with slogans such as "Make economy fashionable lest it become obligatory". One result was an approximate 10% reduction in wartime trash production.[8]
Into the 20th and 21st centuries, vintage clothing has seen increased popularity throughout media and pop culture. The tides of popularfashion create demand for ongoing replacement of products with something that is new and fresh.[2] Once known as secondhand clothing, is now seen as vintage clothing. This is due in part to increased visibility through media, film and television, and celebrity influence. In the past 20 years, vintage fashion has been featured in leading fashion and lifestyle magazines, including a 2011 publication ofMarie Claire.[2] The popularity ofperiod pieces within film and television has also contributed to trends of vintage fashion. The authentic portrayal of 1960s fashions in the 2007 award winning series Mad Men sparked a resurgence of glamour in consumer interest. This was reflected in a prevalence of 1950 and 60s fashions in 2010 runways, and increased sales at vintage shops. In the early 2000s, celebrities like Reese Witherspoon and Renee Zellweger brought vintage clothing into the media by wearing vintage pieces to red carpets.[2]
In the past decade, vintage clothing has become part of the movement towardsenvironmental sustainability andsustainable fashion, and is an aspect of slow fashion, a concept coined in 2007 by Kate Fletcher. Vintage fashion appeals to consumer interests of ethical clothing as it falls under categories of reusing, recycling and repairing items rather than throwing them away.[6] Vintage shopping became a sustainable option with celebrities such as Kim Kardashian popularizing the trend. Vintage shopping has become a key alternative to fast fashion.[9]
Vintage shopping trends have also seen a transition to E-commerce. When new retailers try to enter the market for vintage clothing, they face certain barriers unique to this segment of the fashion industry. For example, authenticity and exclusivity are two very important factors that vintage clothing consumers look for, so guaranteeing these qualities is of greatest importance for the retailers. Knowing and disclosing the origin of the clothing is a crucial component of succeeding in the vintage clothing retail industry.[10]
Those who purchase vintage clothes may wear them frequently or use them as showpieces of great value within their wardrobe. These tend to never be worn, rather appreciated from their new home in the owner's closet. While some people may keep these clothes in their possession for a long time, others may look to repurpose, mend, or pass these items to new owners.[11]
Historically based sub-cultural groups likerockabilly andswing dancing played a part in the increased interest in vintage clothes. In Finland the vintage scene resulted in a registerednon-profit organization calledFintage, from common interest in the preservation ofmaterial culture and the environment.
Fashion design throughout history has turned to previous eras for inspiration. Vintage clothing retains and increases in value due to the fact that it is genuinely from a past era.[12] Vintage clothing allows the buyers to be their own designers because they can choose the different styles from second-hand clothing.[13] In addition, authentic garments are made one at a time, with enough attention to detail to create an item that has long lasting value. Garments closely resembling original vintage (retro or antique) clothing are mass-produced, for the most part, in China. An example of this is the simpleslip dresses that emerged in the early 1990s, a style that resembles a 1930s design, but upon examination will show that it only superficially resembles the real thing. These styles are generally referred to as "vintage style", "vintage inspired" or "vintage reproductions". They serve as a convenient alternative to those who admire an old style but prefer a modern interpretation. People who wear vintage clothing look for designer brands and limited edition products to fit in the “vintage” category.[14] Sellers claim consumer advantage in that, unlike the original garments, they are usually available in a range of sizes and perhaps, colours and/or fabrics, and can be sold much cheaper.
Vintage fashion can be understood as a response tofast fashion, in which garments are mass produced. Vintage shopping allow consumers to find unique pieces and create a sense of individuality.[15] Vintage clothing is also meant to evoke an emotional connection to clothing, especially connecting pieces with feelings such as nostalgia and memories. The individuality and sense of style that a person tries to convey by building a wardrobe around "vintage style" is something that drives the trend forward.[16]
Even luxury clothing consumers have made a shift toward a sustainable approach to luxury clothing, and vintage style has contributed greatly to this. Influencers and celebrities gravitating toward branded items that are second-hand or vintage, have pushed consumers to own unique pieces that are more environmentally friendly, rather than shopping for cheaper fast fashion. Giving vintage clothes a strong value in society and fashion has been crucial to making it a desirable choice for the greater public. This has helped create brand desirability in a market which may have not had this component earlier. Especially with the general public who have tighter budgets than celebrities, second-hand luxury items seem to be an appealing path into the world of luxury brands.[17]
Vintage fashion is part of a larger movement ofsustainable fashion, and falls under the category ofslow fashion, which is direct response to increasing awareness of the environmental impacts of the fast fashion industry. Within the past 10 years, increased media coverage of environmental issues has led to increasing consumer interest in ethical clothing consumption, and vintage fashion specifically.[15]
The fashion industry ranks as the second most polluting industry in the world after the oil industry.[18] Consequently, a trend in becoming more conscious and sustainable shoppers has emerged through the years. The interest and demand in vintage shopping has grown significantly. The rise of popularity of vintage clothing has been linked to a growing demand for sustainable fashion. Vintage clothing gained traction in 2020 as consumers became eco-conscious. In 2020, the term "vintage fashion" was researched 35,000 times on Lyst.[19] One way of reducing waste and limiting the negative impact of fashion on the environment is the reuse and recycling of clothes. Vintage stores make fashion more sustainable. One used item purchased as opposed to one new one reduces CO2 emissions by 25% on average per use.[citation needed]
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