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Valenciennes lace

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Type of bobbin lace from Valenciennes, France
Valenciennes lace
Valenciennes bobbin lace (1850-1900),MoMu-collection, Antwerp
TypeLace
Production methodBobbin lace
Production processCraft production
Place of originValenciennes, France
Private collection

Valenciennes lace is a type ofbobbin lace which originated inValenciennes, in the Nord département of France, and flourished from about 1705 to 1780.[1][2][3] Later production moved to Belgium, in and aroundYpres.[3][4][5] The industry continued onto the 19th century on a diminished scale.[3] By the 19th century Valenciennes lace could be made by machine.[1]

Valenciennes lace is made on alace pillow[5][6] in one piece, with theréseau (thenet-like ground) being made at the same time as thetoilé (the pattern).[1][5][6] It differentiates itself from other types of lace because the openness of theréseau, the closeness and evenness of thetoilé, which resemblescambric, and that it lacks anycordonnet (a loosely spun silk cord used to outline and define the pattern).[4][5][7] Also, in real Flemish Valenciennes lace there are no twisted sides to the mesh; all are closely plaited, and as a rule the shape of the mesh is diamond but without the openings.[4]

Theréseau ground is made of four threads braided together, with eight threads at the crosses,[6] which makes it very strong and firm.[7] This is simpler and easier to make than the ground forMechlin lace, though similar in appearance.[7]

Valenciennes lace received an impetus in the seventeenth century, when theScheldt was channelled for river navigation betweenCambrai and Valenciennes, benefiting the export of Valenciennes' wool, fabric and fine arts. To use up flax yarn, women began to make the famous Valenciennes lace. Early Valenciennes lace was grounded with fancy mesh which was thicker and closer than the openréseau used later. The more open version was developed in Valenciennes, and thus the type of lace became known under the name of the town.[5] The open mesh started to evolve in the 18th century and by the 19th century the characteristic ground made of four braided threads was in use.[7] By the 1900s little of the famous lace was still made in Valenciennes.[8]

References

[edit]
  1. ^abcHaugland, Kristina (May 2006).Grace Kelly: Icon of Style to Royal Bride. Yale University Press. p. 48.ISBN 0-300-11644-6. Retrieved2008-05-10.
  2. ^"Valenciennes."The Oxford English Dictionary. 2nd ed. 1989.
  3. ^abc"Valenciennes lace".Encyclopædia Britannica (online ed.). Retrieved2008-05-10.
  4. ^abc"Lace".Encyclopædia Britannica (11th ed.).
  5. ^abcdeSharp, Mary (March 2007).Point and Pillow Lace. Herron Press. pp. 102–106.ISBN 978-1-4067-4562-7. Retrieved2008-05-10.
  6. ^abcPowys, Marian (March 2002).Lace and Lace Making. Dover Publications. p. 20.ISBN 0-486-41811-1. Retrieved2008-05-10.
  7. ^abcdPowys, Marian (March 2002).Lace and Lace Making. Dover Publications. pp. 27–29.ISBN 0-486-41811-1. Retrieved2008-05-10.
  8. ^"Valenciennes".Encyclopædia Britannica (11th ed.).

External links

[edit]
Lace types
Needle lace
Embroidery
Cutwork
Bobbin lace
Mesh grounds
Guipure
Part laces
Tape
Tape lace
Crocheted lace
Machine-made lace
Other handmade laces
Media related toLace at Wikimedia CommonsFashion portaliconClothing portal
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