| Upper Neretva Gornja Neretva | |
|---|---|
.jpg) A section of the Upper Neretva canyon, Ćepa (1006 m). | |
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| Etymology | "Nera-Etwa" isCeltic for"Divinity that flows" referring to the Neretva River;Latin:Narenta, Narona, Naro for English:Narrative, Gurgle. |
| Nickname(s) | Nera; Emerald River;Modra rijeka (English:Purple River) |
| Location | |
| Country | Bosnia and Herzegovina |
| Region | South-East Central Bosnia and Herzegovina |
| District | Konjic,Kalinovik,Gacko |
| City | Konjic |
| Physical characteristics | |
| Source | Gredelj |
| • location | Lebršnik, South-East Central Bosnia and Herzegovina,Bosnia and Herzegovina |
| • elevation | 1,227 m (4,026 ft) |
| Mouth | Adriatic |
• location | Ploče,Dubrovnik-Neretva County,Croatia |
• elevation | 0 m (0 ft) |
| Length | 90 km (56 mi), EW |
| Discharge | |
| • average | 34.5 m3/s (1,220 cu ft/s) |
| Basin features | |
| River system | Dinaric Alps |
| Tributaries | |
| • left | Jezernica, the Živašnica (also known as the Živanjski Potok), Ladjanica, Župski Krupac,Bukovica, Šištica, Konjička Bijela |
| • right | Jezernica (also known as the Tatinac), Gornji i Donji Krupac, Ljuta (also known as the Dindolka), Jesenica, Bjelimićka Rijeka, Slatinica, Račica,Rakitnica, Konjička Ljuta, Trešanica, Neretvica |
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Upper Neretva (Serbo-Croatian:Gornja Neretva), is the upper course of theNeretva river, including vast mountainous area surrounding theNeretva, with numerous human settlements, peaks and forests, numerous streams and well-springs, three major glacial lakes near the river and even more scattered across the mountains ofTreskavica andZelengora, in a wider area of the Upper Neretva with its flora and fauna.
Geographically and historically area has distinct features, while theNeretva is divided into three common hydrological sections: upper, middle and lower.[1]
TheNeretva has been harnessed and controlled to a large extent by fourHE power-plants withlarge dams (as higher than 15 meters)[2] and their storagelakes, but it still recognized for its natural beauty,[3] diversity of its landscape and visual attractiveness.[3][4]
TheNeretva is largestkarst river in theDinaric Alps in the entire eastern part of theAdriatic basin, which belongs to theAdriatic river watershed. The total length is 230 km, of which 208 km are inBosnia and Herzegovina, while the final 22 km are in theDubrovnik-Neretva County ofCroatia.[1][5]Geographically and hydrographical theNeretva is divided in three section.[1]The upper course of theNeretva river, called the Upper Neretva(Bosnian:Gornja Neretva), includes vast area around theNeretva, numerous streams and well-springs, three major glacial lakes near the very river and even more scattered across the mountains ofTreskavica andZelengora in wider area of the Upper Neretva, mountains, peaks and forests, flora and fauna of the area. All this natural heritage together with cultural heritage of Upper Neretva, representing rich and valuable resources ofBosnia and Herzegovina as well asEurope.
TheNeretva springs are situated deep in theDinaric Alps at the base of theZelengora andLebršnik mountains under the villageJabuka and the saddleGredelj. TheNeretva headwaters run in undisturbed rapids and waterfalls, carving steep gorges reaching 600–800 meters in depth through this remote and rugged limestone terrain.
The upper course ofNeretva, Upper Neretva(Bosnian:Gornja Neretva) has water of Class I purity[6] and is almost certainly the coldest river water in the world, often as low as 7-8 degrees Celsius in the summer months.
First section, Upper Neretva, of theNeretva river from its source at 1,227 m.a.s.l. and headwaters gorge all the way to the town ofKonjic is 90 km,[1] flows from south to north-north-west as most of theBosnia and Herzegovina rivers belonging to theDanube watershed, and cover some 1,390 km2 with average elevation of 1.2%. Right belowKonjic, theNeretva briefly expanding into a wide valley which provides fertile agricultural land. There exists the largeJablaničko Lake, artificially formed after construction of a dam nearJablanica.
Second section begins from the confluence of theNeretva and theRama river betweenKonjic and Jablanica where the Neretva suddenly takes a southern course and enters the largest canyons of its course, running through steep slopes of magnificent mountains ofPrenj,Čvrsnica andČabulja reaching 80–1,200 m (260–3,940 ft) in depth. From hereNeretva flows toward theAdriatic Sea.
TheNeretva river rises beneath the mountain saddle known as Gredelj. Its spring consists of five individual well-springs on the forested and steep slopes ofGredelj ridge. They are difficult to access and even harder to find in a very thick forest. For many years place exists at the border of the oldest National Park in Bosnia and Herzegovina,NP Sutjeska with its primeval forestPerućica, but itself never protected.
Konjic is the only town in the Upper Neretva. Two largest villages includeUlog andGlavatičevo, with a number of smaller ones, such as Bjelimići, Obalj,Lukomir and other.
TheNeretva headwaters gorge is actually a broad valley, up to 1 km wide and 20 km long, called Borač. Nevertheless, because of its position among the great mountain chains, in the heart of Bosnia and HerzegovinaDinaric Alps, Borač has a very steep slope and the Neretva river significant(hydrological) elevation. Several major well-sources significantly complement the Neretva river, among which the most important and with largest quantity of fresh and potable water are"Krupac" and"Pridvorica" well-springs.Borač valley, before theBosnian war, was inhabited mostly byMuslims, whose villages were completely destroyed and the people murdered, imprisoned into a concentration camp inKalinovik and deported mostly tothird countries in a broad ethnic cleansing by Serb para-military forces. Some of the villagers now returning to their land, repairing and rebuilding their houses.TheBorač valley ends one kilometer upstream from the entrance to small mountain town ofUlog, where at the same time beginsValley of Ulog.
Ulog is a small mountain town in Ulog Valley at the banks of the UpperNeretva river, in the heart of easternBosnia and HerzegovinaDinaric Alps, surrounded with great mountain chains ofZelengora,Lelija,Crvanj andTreskavica. Town is formed byOttomans, on old caravan road fromMostar viaNevesinje en route toIstanbul. From Ulog downstream of the Neretva river is wide valley named Ulog valley. During theBosnian war, Ulog was suffered extensive destruction from Serb forces, and its civilian population, mostlyBosnian Muslims and someCroats, were completely annihilated, though town and its surrounding never saw significant, if any, battles or military confrontation.
Glavatičevo is a small village inBosnia and Herzegovina. The village is located 30 kilometers away fromKonjic in a southeast direction, within a wide Župa valley (alsoKomska Župa orKonjička Župa or simply Župa) (župatransl. parish) on both banks of theNeretva river, inKonjic Municipality,Bosnia and Herzegovina.Dr. Pavao Anđelić in his book "Spomenici Konjica i okoline" claimed that Glavatičevo got its name from the name of the local nobleman Glavat or Glavatec.
Rivers of theJezernica (alsoTatinac), theGornji and Donji Krupac, theLjuta-Dindolka, theJesenica, theBjelimićka Rijeka, theSlatinica, theRačica, theRakitnica, theKonjička Ljuta, theTrešanica, theNeretvica flow into the Neretva from the right, while theJezernica, theŽivašnica (alsoŽivanjski Potok), theLadjanica, theŽupski Krupac, theBukovica, theŠištica with itsŠištica Waterfall, theKonjička Bijela flow into it from the left.
Rakitnica is the main tributary of the first section of theNeretva river known as Upper Neretva(Bosnian:Gornja Neretva). TheRakitnica river formed a 26 km long canyon, of its 32 km length, that stretches betweenBjelašnica andVisočica to southeast fromSarajevo.[7]From canyon, there is a hiking trail along the ridge of theRakitnica canyon, which drops 800m below, all the way to famous village ofLukomir. Village is the only remaining traditional semi-nomadic,Bosniak, mountain village inBosnia and Herzegovina.At almost 1,500m, the village ofLukomir, with its unique stone homes with cherry-wood roof tiles, is the highest and most isolated mountain village in the country. Indeed, access to the village is impossible from the first snows in December until late April and sometimes even later, except by skis or on foot. A newly constructed lodge is now complete to receive guests and hikers.
Jablaničko Lake (Bosnian:Jablaničko jezero) is a large artificially formed lake on theNeretva river, right belowKonjic where theNeretva briefly expanding into a wide valley. Rivere provided lot of fertile, agricultural land there, before lake flooded most of it.The lake was created in 1953 after construction of large[2] gravitational ahydroelectricdam nearJablanica in centralBosnia and Herzegovina.The lake has an irregular elongated shape. Its width varies along its length. The lake is a popular vacation destination inBosnia and Herzegovina. Swimming, boating and especially fishing are popular activities on the lake. Many weekend cottages have been built along the shores of the lake.There are 13 types of fish in the lake's ecosystem.
In densewater system network the Neretva holds a significant position[8][9] amongrivers ofDinaric Alps region, regarding its diversecosystems andhabitats,flora andfauna, cultural and historic heritage, but also asArea of Outstanding Natural Beauty and most importantly its clean, freshdrinking water.[4][10]
One of the most valuable natural resource ofBosnia and Herzegovina isfreshwater richness[10] contained by an abundantwellspring and clearrivers, indeed, a natural treasure of great importance yet to be evaluated, acknowledge and appreciated.[4][10] From theDrina river on the east to theUna river on the west and from theSava river on the north to theAdriatic sea on the south,Bosnia and Herzegovina is genuineEuropeanfreshwater reservoir.[10] Situated in between all these major regional rivers the Neretva basin contain most significant[10] portion of freshdrinking water.[4][10]The Upper Neretva(Bosnian:Gornja Neretva) water is Class I purity[6] and almost certainly the coldest river water in the world, often as low as 7-8 degrees Celsius in the summer months.
Dinaric karst water systems inhabit 25% of the total of 546fish species in Europe. Watercourses of this area are inhabited by a large number ofendemic species offish.The riverNeretva and its tributaries represent the main drainage system in the eastAdriatic watershed and the foremost ichthyofaunalhabitat of the region. According to Smith & Darwall (2006) theNeretva river, together with four other areas in theMediterranean, has the largest number ofthreatened freshwaterfish species.
Degree ofendemism in thekarst eco-region is greater than 10% of the total number of fish species. Numerous species of fish that inhabited this area live in very narrow and limited areal and arevulnerable, so they are included on theRed List ofendangered fish and theIUCN-2006.
Upper Neretva inhabits threeendemic andendangered species of fish. All of theendemic of Upper Neretva are rare andendangeredtrouts, theNeretvaindigenous, autochthonalichthyofauna.
Salmonids fishes from the Neretva basin show considerable variation inmorphology,ecology and behaviour. The Neretva also has many otherendemic and fragile life forms that are nearextinction.
Among mostendangered are threeendemic species of the Neretvatrout:Neretvan Softmouth trout (Bosnian:Neretvanska mekousna pastrmka)(Salmothymus obtusirostris oxyrhinchus Steind.),[11]Toothtrout (Bosnian:Zubatak alsoBosnian:Zubara)(Salmo dentex)[12]andMarble trout (Bosnian:Glavatica also known asBosnian:Gonjavac)(Salmo marmoratus Cuv.).[13]
All threeendemictrout species of the Neretva areendangered mostly due to thehabitat destruction or construction of large and majordams (large as higher than 15–20 m; major as over 150–250 m)[2] in particular andhybridization orgenetic pollution withintroduced,non-native trouts, also from illegal fishing as well as poor management of water andfisheries especially in form of introduction ofinvasive allochthonous species (dams,overfishing, mismanagement,genetic pollution,invasive species).[14][15]
The benefits brought by dams have often come at a great environmental and social cost,[16][17] as dams destroy ecosystems[18] and cause people to lose their homes and livelihoods.
TheNeretva and two main tributaries are already harnessed, by fourHE power-plants withlarge dams[2] on Neretva, oneHE power-plants withmajor dam on the Neretva tributary Rama, and twoHE power-plants with onemajor dam[2] on theTrebišnjica river, which is considered as part of the Neretva watershed.
Also, the government of theFederation of Bosnia and Herzegovina entity has unveiled plans to build three morehydroelectric power plants withmajor dams (as over 150.5 meters in height)[2] upstream from the existing plants, beginning withGlavaticevo Hydro Power Plant in the nearbyGlavatičevo village, then going even more upstreamBjelimići Hydro Power Plant andLjubuča Hydro Power Plant located near the villages with a same names; and in addition one more at the Neretva headwaters gorge, near the very source of the river in entity ofRepublic of Srpska by its entity government. This, if realized, would completely destroyed this jewel among rivers, so its strongly opposed and protested by numerous environmentalist organizations andNGO's, domestic[19] as well as international,[20][21][22] who wish for the canyon, considered at least beautiful as theTara canyon inBosnia and Herzegovina and nearbyMontenegro, to remain untouched and unspoiled, hopefully protected too.[4][23]
Moreover, the sameGovernment Of FBiH preparing a parallel plan to form a hugeNational Park which include entire region of Gornja Neretva(English:Upper Neretva), and within Park those threehydroelectric power plants, which is unheard in the history ofenvironmental protection. The latest idea is that the park should be divided in two, where the Neretva should be excluded from both and, in fact, become the boundary between parks.This is a cunning plan of engineers and related ministry inGovernment Of FBiH and should leave the river available for the construction of three large dams, and give them hope in order to remove the fear of contradiction in the plans for environmental protection in the area and the flooding its very heart, in terms of natural values - the Neretva. Of course, such deception failed, because the concerned citizens from the local community are not given bluff, as well as concerned citizens of whole country, and its particularly strongly opposed by NGOs and other institutions and organizations that are interested inestablishing theNational Park of Upper Neretva towards the professional and scientific principles and not according to the needs ofelectric energylobby.[17][24][25]
There are a lot of reliable signs and evidences of human life in ancient period of this region. The oldest written record is actually atombstone from the 2nd century AD raised by Elije Pinnes and Temus, parents of Pinniusu theRoman soldier of the 2.Legion Auxiliary. At the nearby Dernek were found many parts of ceramics from the Roman era.From theEarly Stone Age there is no evidence of living in Glavatičevo, although there are signs of ancient inhabitants in wider area. Pieces of ceramics from theLate Stone Age period were found in the sites of Gradac, Lonac and Vijenac near Razići, and sites of Šibenik and Kom near Kašići.
Numerous sources confirm that Glavatičevo area and the wider surrounding countryside, from the 12th century until the arrival of theOttoman empire, was very important for medievalBosnian Kingdom, apart from the military significant, also, both economically and culturally.Komska Župa (English:Parish =Bosnian:Župa), or area of the current Glavatičevo at that time was a very important road junction. For securing crossing over theNeretva river, near Glavatičevo has built town of Gradac with the citadel.Center of the developed area was the old town of Kom, whose ruins are now preserved on the hard viable top mountain ridge above the village Kašići. The whole Župa area was named after the ancient town of Kom, Komska Župa. Kom was a significant military, economic and cultural center of ancient medievalBosnian Kingdom andaristocratic Sanković family. The first written document on Kom originate from the 12th century, as part of the otherwise largely fictive text,"Ljetopis popa Dukljanina" bypop Dukljanin(English:"Chronicle of the Priest of Duklja").A lot of trading have been happening in Komska Župa at the time.Dubrovnik Republic (alsoRepublic of Ragusa) had a leading role in this. 15 May 1391 Vojvoda (English:Duke =Bosnian:Vojvoda) Radić Sanković issued Charter to Dubrovnik merchants that can trade on its territory, including Komsku Župu. As proof of this trading is discovery of coins fromDubrovnik Republic, as well as a document from 1381 which mentions the clearance of goods in this region. Thus, in Kom worked custom office.At the end of 14th century Kom are still mentioned as a Župa (English:Parish =Bosnian:Župa). It was rare, because the other noble estates were already called principality. Therefore, the area Kom was continued to be called a Župa and that the name has been preserved to these days.Aristocratic Kosača family governed Komska Župa until the second half of 1465. But two years earlier, 1463, after the war campaign, TurkishSultan Mehmed II el Fatih conquered the area of Konjic and Kom, but that same year HercegStjepan Vukčić Kosača and his sons went to counterattack and restored Kom and its surrounding area. Two years is a peace reigned again, but in constant fear of a new Turkish attack. In mid-1465 The Turkish army under the command ofIsa-Beg Isaković invaded the land ofHerceg Stjepan and won. That was final fall of Kom.Komska Župa becamenahia and has beenKadilukuBlagaj. It can be seen from the list ofBosnian Sandžak from 1469 (During the Ottoman times Bosnia was both a single sanjak, and after 1580 a pashaluk divided into several sanjaks).
TheStećci (singular: Stećak) are monumental medieval tombstones that lie scattered across the landscape ofBosnia and Herzegovina. They are the country’s most legendary symbol.[citation needed] Although many of them are found inSerbia andCroatia, the vast majority are found within the borders ofBosnia and Herzegovina – 60,000 in all, of which approximately 10,000 are decorated (and sometimes inscribed). Appearing in the 12th century, the stećci reached their peak in the late 14th to 15th centuries, before dying away during theOttoman occupation. Their most remarkable feature is their decorative motifs, many of which remain enigmatic to this day. Although its origins are within theBosnian Church, all evidence points to the fact that stećci were erected in due time by adherents of theSerbian Orthodox andRoman Catholic Bosnians alike.
District Komska Župa or Glavatičevo, is full stećci. Some of them, and there are hundreds, are a true rarity.In the necropolis Sanković, at the Grčka glavica (English:Greece peak), in the area of Biskup village (English:Bishop), there are about 115stećak tombstones. The most famous is the stećak on the grave of Goisava Sanković, fromaristocratic Sanković family. Among these decorated stećak, two are decorated with motifs of vines.In Kasići there is a group of five stećak tombstones. One is decorated, and one has a label that was partially damaged, but can nevertheless be translated.In Krupac, in one of two lone stećak, there is a drawing of Crescent.Near Razići, at Crkvine hamlet, there is a huge necropolis of 93 stećak, decorated with the only three interesting themes. In one drawing is the human head, "that makes the spirits go away" and it is likely that below this carving, probably, aBogumil was buried. On the second is carved cross which signified that under this stećak is a Christian, while the third stećak have a crescent moon under which, probably, rests a local inhabitant who acceptedIslam.The hamlet Račica at the place which is called Gromile, there are two lone stećak. One of them has two podiums, which is very rarely.On the Visočica mountain, on the Poljica, in a really great necropolis tombstones are two stećak: Vukosav Lupčić and Rabrena Vukić with inscriptions
Roman road fromNarona (Village Vid at Metković) ran over Nevesinjsko field and Dubrava, and on the location of Velika Poljana, near Lipeta, join with main rout. Solid construction of the Roman roads, making it clearly visible even today, from Lipeta to Vrabča. Milestones found in Konjic at the mouth of the Bijela river, in Polje, Borci village, Kuli, Malom Polju near Lipeta, all mentioning Roman emperors Augustus, Dacija, Tacitus, and Philip Augustus. That means that the Romans constructed these roads sometime in the 1st century and with significant reconstructed during the 3rd century, and continuously used in the Middle Ages as the closest connection fromDubrovnik Republic with trading centers inBosnia.From Lipeta to Konjic, Roman Road and the Turkish route have been built almost on the same route. DuringOttoman rule, there was a vital traffic betweenSarajevo andMostar. How important this road was in the Middle Ages Bosnia, tells us his name:"Džada Mostar", "Great road of Mostar" or "Sarajevo road".Even the Romans had forts to ensure traffic and the protection of passengers on this rout. During the Middle Ages, except fortifications, along the way were built settlements. In Ottoman times along the way were made Karaula (English:Watchtower), with a mission to protect the passengers. Karaula are placed on peaks, canyons and places that are ideal for the attacker and the most dangerous for passengers.Along the road shelters were built for the night sleep and rest of passing travelers. On the Roman road these shelters were calleddiversarium. With diversarium was a shop, stable, shelter or barn, blacksmith's shop for repair of wagons and shoeing. After the fall of theRoman Empire, Roman road were neglected.At the time of theBosnian kings, all the imports and exports of goods going towardsDubrovnik Republic and back. People traveled with caravans and lodged under the starry sky, there were fewer shalters at the time like inKonjic and Vrabč. After the occupation ofBosnia by theOttoman empire, a new shelters called hans were built. Hans served for lodging and accommodation of travelers called "kiridžija" and their caravans, but also the trade took place in these hans as well. During theOttoman rule hans were a form of "bed and breakfast" facilities, to meet basic needs, these were buildings with dining room, rooms for passengers, room forhadžije (English:Hajjis), shops, stables for horses.[26]
| Water bodies | Settlements | Protected heritage
| Nature and culture |
A large dam is defined by the industry as one higher than 15 meters high and a major dam as higher than 150.5 meters
..international acknowledgement of the Neretva river unique beauty and the diversity of its landscape through Ramsar Convention - Neretva River (description can be read in the first sentence of the second paragraph)
There are about 30 water reservoirs in Bosnia and Herzegovina primarily on the Neretva and Trebisnjica basin,..
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| Trebišnjica drainage: sub-basin of the Neretva |
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43°30′12.91″N18°6′17.25″E / 43.5035861°N 18.1047917°E /43.5035861; 18.1047917