Governing body for competition climbing
USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport ofcompetition climbing in the United States.[ 1] 501(c)3 non-profit, they promote Sport Climbing which comprises three competition disciplines:bouldering ,lead climbing , andspeed climbing , in elite, youth and collegiate formats.
USA Climbing receives sanctioning and is recognized by the following organizations:[ 1] International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC),[ 2] International Olympic Committee (IOC),[ 3] United States Olympic & Paralympic Committee .[ 4] [ 1]
Competition history [ edit ] Below is a brief timeline of American competition climbing history:[ 5]
1988 & 1989 – Stand-alone World Cup events at Snowbird, Utah, were organized by UIAA and the American Alpine Club.[ 6] 1994 – Junior National Championship organized by the American Sport Climbers Federation (ASCF) is created. 1998 – The ASCF became the Junior Competition Climbing Association (JCCA). 2002 – The JCCA expanded to include adult competitors and changed its name again to the United States Competition Climbing Association (USCCA). 2003 – USCCA decided to rename the organization to what it is called today,USA Climbing (USAC). 2004 – USAC took over operations of the American Bouldering Series (ABS). Competition structure [ edit ] Any eligible climber aged 16 and older who meets the USAC qualification criteria may compete at Elite Nationals. There are no Regional or Divisional competitions for Elite competitors. The winners in each gender/event (Lead, Speed, and Bouldering) at Elite Nationals are recognized as the National Champions of the United States. However, a non-US citizen cannot be the National Champion of the US. If a non-US citizen wins any gender/event, the next highest-placed US citizen in that gender/event is declared the National Champion.
Youth climbers are subdivided into 5 age groups. As of the 2024–25 season, USA Climbing no longer categorizes youth athletes using the Jr, A, B, C, D system. The age ranges are based on how old the competitor will be by the end of the season, not their current age:
U20 (19 years old)U19 (17–18 years old)U17 (15–16 years old)U15 (13–14 years old)U13 (≤12 years old)The US is subdivided into 9 Divisions and 18 Regions.[ 7] [ 8] [ 7]
Starting with the 2024-2025 season:
USA Climbing adopted U13, U15, U17, U19, and U20 category names based on birth year, doing away with the Jr/A/B/C/D terms. This restructuring was driven by a desire to align with international standards and IFSC changes, especially for youth progression and eligibility for international events like Youth World Championships.[ 9]
Provides access for undergraduate or graduate students that are currently enrolled at a college or university to compete in bouldering, lead and speed climbing.[ 10]
Adaptive provides access for athletes with physical disabilities to compete in both bouldering and lead/top rope climbing.[ 11]
Categories included in Adaptive are open to those with physical disabilities: Neurological / Physical Disability, Visual Impairment, Upper Extremity Amputee, Lower Extremity, Amputee, Seated, Youth.[ 11]
The following are the results for bouldering at Elite National Championship level.[ 12]
The following are the results for lead at Elite National Championship level[ 12]
Starting with the 2021 Speed National Championships, the US competition format was changed to match the IFSC speed climbing competition format. Prior to 2021, US Speed Climbing National Champions (and final ranking placements) were determined by the fastest climber to finish the speed route. As of 2021, US Speed National Champions were determined by the winners of the IFSC knockout format.
Current US speed climbing records [ edit ] Starting in 2023, USA Climbing adopted the same criteria as the Elite category to officially recognize Speed climbing records for Youth age groups. One key criterion is the use of an officially recognized electronic timing system. Historically, youth records were maintained for developmental purposes without official standards. Now, official Youth speed climbing records can only be set at specific events: USAC Youth Qualifying Events, USAC Youth Regional Championships, USAC Youth Divisional Championships, USAC Youth National Championships, IFSC Youth Pan American Championships, IFSC Youth World Championships, and other USAC or IFSC sanctioned events in which youth age groups compete. Records are not kept for youth age groups C and D because the speed climbing routes vary at each competition.
Men's 15 meter 10 meter Time (seconds) Athlete Time (seconds) Athlete Elite 4.74 Sam Watson[ 58] 3.95 John Brosler[ 52] Junior 5.75 Logan Minor[ 59] 4.03 Noah Bratschi [ 60] Youth A 5.32 Zach Hammer[ 61] 4.34 John Brosler[ 62] Youth B 6.18 Sam Watson[ 63] 5.03 Michael Retoff[ 64]
Women's 15 meter 10 meter Time (seconds) Athlete Time (seconds) Athlete Elite 6.38 Emma Hunt[ 65] 5.64 Claire Buhrfeind Junior 7.55 Emma Hunt[ 63] 5.80 Piper Kelly[ 60] Youth A 7.84 Sophia Curcio[ 66] 5.88 Grace McKeehan[ 67] Youth B 7.96 Jojo Chi[ 61] 6.33 Sidney Trinidad[ 68]
History of the US speed climbing record [ edit ] Beginning in 2019, USA Climbing established specific criteria for setting official National Records in the Elite Speed Climbing category. As such, the National Records below for the Elite category have been officially recognized by USA Climbing.
Men's National Record History Date Time (s) Athlete Location Competition April 28, 2023 5.02 [ 69] Sam Watson Seoul , South Korea2023 IFSC World Cup May 20, 2022 5.20[ 70] John Brosler Salt Lake City , Utah2022 IFSC World Cup May 28, 2021 5.60[ 71] John Brosler Salt Lake City , Utah2021 IFSC World Cup March 28, 2021 5.62[ 69] John Brosler Memphis , TennesseeUSA Climbing Team Trials Invitational March 28, 2021 5.85[ 69] Noah Bratschi Memphis , TennesseeUSA Climbing Team Trials Invitational January 20, 2019 5.99[ 72] John Brosler Salt Lake City , UtahUSA Climbing Combined Invitational
Women's National Record History Date Time (s) Athlete Location Competition August 10, 2023 6.67 [ 73] Emma Hunt Bern, Switzerland 2023 IFSC World Championships July 2, 2023 6.68[ 74] Emma Hunt Villars, Switzerland 2023 IFSC World Cup May 7, 2023 6.79[ 75] Emma Hunt Jakarta, Indonesia 2023 IFSC World Cup April 28, 2023 6.82[ 76] Emma Hunt Seoul, Korea 2023 IFSC World Cup Sept 10, 2022 6.84[ 77] Emma Hunt Edinburgh, Scotland 2022 IFSC World Cup July 2, 2021 7.19[ 78] Emma Hunt Villars, Switzerland 2021 IFSC World Cup July 2, 2021 7.43[ 78] Emma Hunt Villars, Switzerland 2021 IFSC World Cup May 28, 2021 7.52[ 79] Emma Hunt Salt Lake City , Utah2021 IFSC World Cup March 29, 2021 7.56[ 69] Emma Hunt Memphis , TennesseeUSA Climbing Team Trials Invitational March 29, 2021 7.76[ 69] Emma Hunt Memphis , TennesseeUSA Climbing Team Trials Invitational March 29, 2021 7.95[ 69] Emma Hunt Memphis , TennesseeUSA Climbing Team Trials Invitational March 28, 2021 8.04[ 69] Emma Hunt Memphis , TennesseeUSA Climbing Team Trials Invitational March 1, 2020 8.05[ 80] Emma Hunt Los Angeles , CaliforniaIFSC Pan American Championships
[ edit ] The athletes who represent the United States in International competition events.[ 81]
Bouldering & Lead National Team – Men Bouldering & Lead National Team – Women Bouldering National Team – Men Colin Duffy Sean Bailey Dillon Countryman Ross Fulkerson Luke Muehring Bouldering National Team – Women Speed National Team – Men Noah Bratschi John Brosler Sam Watson Merritt Ernsberger Zach Hammer Darren Skolnik Quinn O'francia Speed National Team – Women Callie Close Emma Hunt Piper Kelly Olivia Ma Liberty Runnels Sophia Curcio Lead National Team – Men Colin Duffy Jesse Grupper Sean Bailey Hugo Hoyer Luke Muehring Lead National Team – Women [ edit ] 2022 - The athletes who represent the United States in International competition events in 2022.[ 81]
Bouldering & Lead National Team – Men Bouldering & Lead National Team – Women Bouldering National Team – Men Bouldering National Team – Women Lead National Team – Women Speed National Team – Men Noah Bratschi John Brosler Merritt Ernsberger Joe Goodacre Sam Watson Speed National Team – Women Callie Close Emma Hunt Piper Kelly Olivia Ma Liberty Runnels 2021 - The athletes who represented the United States at International competition events in 2021.[ 82]
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