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Twickenham

Coordinates:51°26′56″N0°20′13″W / 51.449°N 0.337°W /51.449; -0.337
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Town in Greater London, England
For the rugby union stadium, seeTwickenham Stadium. For the historic district in Huntsville, Alabama, seeTwickenham Historic District.

Human settlement in England
Twickenham
Aerial view ofTwickenham Stadium (centre) andStoop Stadium (background) from the north in August 2015
Twickenham is located in Greater London
Twickenham
Twickenham
Location withinGreater London
Area12.36 km2 (4.77 sq mi)
Population62,148 (2011 Census)[nb 1]
• Density5,028/km2 (13,020/sq mi)
OS grid referenceTQ1673
• Charing Cross9.9 mi (15.9 km) NE
London borough
Ceremonial countyGreater London
Region
CountryEngland
Sovereign stateUnited Kingdom
Post townTWICKENHAM
Postcode districtTW1, TW2
Dialling code020
PoliceMetropolitan
FireLondon
AmbulanceLondon
UK Parliament
London Assembly
List of places
UK
England
London
51°26′56″N0°20′13″W / 51.449°N 0.337°W /51.449; -0.337

Twickenham (/ˈtwɪkənəm/TWICK-ən-əm) is a suburban district ofLondon, England, on theRiver Thames 9.9 miles (15.9 km) southwest ofCharing Cross.Historically inMiddlesex, since 1965 it has formed part of theLondon Borough of Richmond upon Thames, whose administrative headquarters are in the area.

The population, includingSt Margarets andWhitton, was 62,148 at the 2011 census.[1]

Twickenham is the home of theRugby Football Union, with hundreds of thousands of spectators visitingTwickenham Stadium each year. The historic riverside area has a network of 18th-century buildings and pleasure grounds, many of which have survived intact.[2]

This area has three grand period mansions with public access:York House,Marble Hill andStrawberry Hill House. Another has been lost, that belonging to the 18th-century poetAlexander Pope, who was known as theBard of Twickenham.[3] Strawberry Hill, theNeo-Gothic prototype home ofHorace Walpole is linked with the oldestRoman Catholic university in the country,St Mary's University.

History

[edit]

Pre-Norman

[edit]

Excavations have revealed settlements in the area dating from the EarlyNeolithic, possiblyMesolithic, periods. Occupation seems to have continued through theBronze Age, theIron Age and theRoman occupation. The name Twickenham probably derives from theOld Englishtwiccahamm meaning 'Twicca's hemmed-in land', but it could possibly derive fromtwicenhamm meaning 'hemmed-in land by ariver fork'.[4] The area was first mentioned (as "Tuican hom" and "Tuiccanham") in an 8th-centurycharter to cede the area toWaldhere,Bishop of London, "for the salvation of our souls".[5] The charter, dated 13 June 704, is signed with 12 crosses. The signatories includedSwaefred of Essex,Cenred of Mercia and Earl Paeogthath.

Norman

[edit]

InNorman times Twickenham was part of theManor of Isleworth – itself part of theHundred of Hounslow,Middlesex (mentioned inDomesday Book of 1086).[6] The manor had belonged toÆlfgār, Earl of Mercia in the time ofEdward the Confessor, but was granted to Walter de Saint-Valery (Waleric) byWilliam I of England after theNorman Conquest of England in 1066. The area was farmed, while the river provided opportunities for fishing, boatbuilding and trade.

17th century

[edit]
The Thames at Twickenhamc. 1700, depicted byPeter Tillemans
St Mary's Church today
The Shot Tower by theRiver Crane
A View of Alexander Pope's Villa, Twickenham bySamuel Scott,c. 1759
All Hallows Twickenham, as seen from theA316

Bubonic plague spread to the town in 1665 and 67 deaths were recorded. It appears that Twickenham had apest house in the 17th century, although the location is not known.

There was also a watch house in the middle of the town, withstocks, apillory and awhipping post whose owner was charged to "ward within and about this Parish and to keep all Beggars and Vagabonds that shall lye abide or lurk about the Towne and to give correction to such...".

In 1633 construction began onYork House. It was occupied byEdward Montagu, 2nd Earl of Manchester in 1656 and later byEdward Hyde, 1st Earl of Clarendon.[7]

18th and 19th centuries

[edit]

In 1713 thenave of the ancientSt Mary's Church collapsed, and the church was rebuilt in theNeo-classical style to designs by a local architect,John James.[8]

In 1736, the noted pharmacist andquack doctorJoshua Ward set up the Great Vitriol Works to producesulphuric acid, using a process discovered in the seventeenth century byJohann Glauber in which sulphur is burned together with saltpetre (potassium nitrate), in the presence of steam. The process generates an extremely unpleasant smell, which caused objections from local residents. The area was also soon home to the world's first industrial production facility forgunpowder, on a site between Twickenham and Whitton on the banks of theRiver Crane. There were frequent explosions and loss of life. On 11 March 1758, one of two explosions was felt inReading, Berkshire, and in April 1774 another explosion terrified people at church inIsleworth.[9]

In 1772 three mills blew up, shattering glass and buildings in the neighbourhood.Horace Walpole, 4th Earl of Orford, wrote complaining to his friend and relativeHenry Seymour Conway, then Lieutenant General of the Ordnance, that all the decorative painted glass had been blown out of his windows atStrawberry Hill.

The city ofHuntsville, Alabama was first settled as Twickenham in 1805. In 1811 the name was changed to its present name of Huntsville. It was named after Twickenham, the home of founderLeRoy Pope’s kinsman, Alexander Pope. The name is still used today as a neighborhood and aHistorical District.[10]

The powder mills remained in operation until 1927 when they were closed. Much of the site is now occupied byCrane Park, in which the old Shot Tower, mill sluices and blast embankments can still be seen. Much of the area along the river next to the Shot Tower is now a nature reserve.

The 1818 Enclosure Award led to the development of 182 acres (0.74 km2) of land to the west of the town centre largely between the present day Staines and Hampton Roads, where new roads – Workhouse Road, Middle Road, 3rd, 2nd and 1st Common Roads (now First to Fifth Cross Roads respectively) – were laid out.[11] During the 18th and 19th centuries, a number of fine houses were built and Twickenham became a popular place of residence for people of "fashion and distinction". Further development was stimulated by the opening ofTwickenham station in 1848.

In 1898 some buildings on London Road, near the east end of King Street, were demolished, and a new road was built, in order to relieve congestion on the older Church Street. This new road was named York Street and opened on 1 March 1899.[12]

20th and 21st centuries

[edit]

Electricity was introduced to Twickenham in 1902[13] and the firsttrams arrived the following year.

In 1939, whenAll Hallows Lombard Street was demolished in theCity of London, its distinctive stone tower designed byChristopher Wren, with itspeal of ten bells and connecting stone cloister, and the interior furnishings, including aRenatus Harris organ and a pulpit used byJohn Wesley, were brought to Twickenham to be incorporated in the newAll Hallows Church onChertsey Road (A316) nearTwickenham Stadium.[14]

There was a high-profile murder on 19 August 2004, when French womanAmelie Delagrange (aged 22) died in hospital after being found with a serious head injury (caused bybattery) in the Twickenham Green area. Within 24 hours, police had established a link with the murder of Marsha McDonnell, who was killed in similar circumstances in nearbyHampton 18 months earlier.[15]Levi Bellfield was found guilty of both murders on 25 February 2008 (as well as a further charge of attempted murder against 18-year-old Kate Sheedy) and sentenced to life imprisonment.[16] In 2011 he was found guilty of themurder of Milly Dowler,[17] a teenage girl who vanished fromWalton-on-Thames in March 2002 and whose body was later found inHampshire woodland.[18]

Governance

[edit]

From 1888 the area was administered jointly between the newly formedMiddlesex County Council and the Twickenham Local Government District board, which had been established with the passing of theLocal Government Act 1858. Under theLocal Government Act 1894 the area became Twickenham Urban District. In 1926 Twickenham was granted a charter of incorporation to become amunicipal borough. Eleven years later theurban district councils ofTeddington, Hampton & Hampton Wick merged with Twickenham.

York House (rear view from sunken lawn)

In 1965Middlesex County Council was abolished and replaced with theGreater London Council, and the boroughs of Twickenham,Richmond andBarnes were combined to form the London Borough of Richmond upon Thames. In 1986 theGreater London Council was abolished and most powers devolved to local boroughs and others to the Government and joint boards. In 2000 theGreater London Authority was set up and two-tier administration returned, but with the top tier having a much more limited strategic role.

The borough council offices and chamber are located atYork House, Twickenham and in the adjacent civic centre.[19][20]

TheTwickenham constituency in the UK Parliament includes the towns of Twickenham, St Margarets,Whitton,Teddington,Hampton,Fulwell,Hampton Hill andHampton Wick. Since the2019 UK General Election, theMember of Parliament (MP) has been aLiberal Democrat,Munira Wilson.

Economy

[edit]

As Twickenham is a London suburb, many local residents commute tocentral London or work locally in retail, hospitality, education or for one of the many professional firms based in the area. London Heathrow Airport is important to the local economy both through direct employment and the cluster of international firms that have their European headquarters in the Thames Valley area. Unemployment in the area is very low, however there is a big difference in the salaries earned by residents who work inside the borough, compared to those whose employment is based outside.

The council has been making efforts to regenerate Twickenham town centre which has been struggling due to strong competition fromHounslow,Richmond andKingston upon Thames. It differs from most town centres as it has fewer retail shops, particularly chain stores, and more cafes, restaurants, banks and estate agents.[21] There has been a comprehensive scheme of town centre improvements including repaving inYorkstone, a new arts centre, and improved gardens and riverside walk. However, plans to build a barge house forGloriana at Orleans Gardens[22] and to move the youth centre out of Heatham House so the building could be converted into a hotel proved controversial and were dropped.

Population and housing

[edit]

Data for 1891–1961 is available for theUrban Sanitary District, that was then the Metropolitan Borough which always includedWhitton. This area temporarily expanded for 31 years to includeHampton andTeddington from 1935, rising from 2,421 acres (9.80 km2) to 7,014 acres (28.38 km2).[23] The2001 and2011 Censuses give detailed information about the town/district. The settlement's population in 2011 were living in 22,273 households.[24]

Population of Twickenham
Year1901191119211931
Population20,99129,36734,79039,906
2011 Census homes
WardDetachedSemi-detachedTerracedFlats and apartmentsCaravans/temporary/mobile homes/houseboatsShared between households[24]
South Twickenham2549871,4591,3023213
St Margarets and North Twickenham4311,0921,1931,8432317
Twickenham Riverside2216941,0082,8662836
West Twickenham1481,3001,7701,052010
2011 Census households
WardPopulationHouseholds% Owned outright% Owned with a loanHectares[24]
South Twickenham9,9874,5993041167
St Margarets and North Twickenham11,1724,6162840197
Twickenham Riverside10,3964,2802532175
West Twickenham10,5283,8142844246

In terms of ethnicity (as of 2011 census), the majority of people in all four wards identified themselves as White British, ranging between 71% of the population in Twickenham Riverside to 78% in South Twickenham.[25][26] The next largest ethnic groups in all four wards were Other White, White Irish and Indian.[27][28]

Geography

[edit]

Twickenham is bounded by the River Thames on the south and the land is relatively flat though it does rise gently to the west as it approaches Whitton. The land is fertile and was home to numerous market gardens before housing became the predominant land use with the coming of the railways in the mid nineteenth century.

A map of most of the town of Twickenham
A memorial plaque to Pope's Grotto
Houseboats on riverThames, in theSt Margarets locality
The formerTwickenham Park House

The town is bordered on the south-eastern side by theRiver Thames andEel Pie Island – which is connected to the Twickenham embankment by a narrow footbridge, the first of which was erected in 1957. Before this, access was by means of a hand-operated ferry that was hauled across using a chain on the riverbed. The land adjacent to the river, fromStrawberry Hill in the south toMarble Hill Park in the north, is occupied by a mixture of luxury dwellings, formal gardens, public houses and a newly built park and leisure facility.

In the south, in Strawberry Hill, liesSt Mary's University, Twickenham historically specialising insports studies,teacher training,religious studies, thehumanities,drama studies andEnglish literature. Strawberry Hill was originally a smallcottage in two or three acres (8,000 or 12,000 m2) of land by the River Thames.Horace Walpole, a son of the politicianRobert Walpole, rented the cottage in 1747 and subsequently bought it and turned it into one of the incunabula of theGothic revival. The university shares part of its campus with Walpole'sStrawberry Hill. On adjacent land were thevilla and garden of the poetAlexander Pope. The villa was demolished in 1808/09 following the orders ofLady Howe, who became irritated with the large number of tourists who visited the place.[29] The grotto which formed the basement survived. A memorial plaque was placed on the site in remembrance in 1848.

A road just north of the campus is named Pope's Grove, and a local landmark next to the main road is theAlexander Pope Hotel (previously known asPope's Grotto), apublic house and hotel where Pope's landmark informal garden used to be. Near this hostelry lie St Catherine's school for girls and Radnor House School, in a building on the site of Pope's white stucco villa and the location of Pope's original – surviving –grotto.

There are a large number of fine houses in the area, many of themVictorian. The open space known asRadnor Gardens lies opposite Pope's Grotto.

Not far from Pope's Grotto is the Roman CatholicChurch of Saint James, which has a memorial window in the form of theRoyal Arms of Portugal and memorials toManuel II, Portugal's last king, who worshipped here and died in nearbyFulwell Park in 1932.

Twickenham proper begins in the vicinity of Pope's Grotto, with generally large period houses to the west, thetraditional definition of which isTwickenham Green, and similar housing in the east all the distance toRichmond Bridge typically largest near the Thames. The town centre is not actually in the centre of the town, rather in the south-eastern corner, as Twickenham was built up moving away from the Thames.Whitton lies further to the north and west.

The districts of East Twickenham and St Margarets lie to the north-east of central Twickenham on the west side ofRichmond Bridge, the shortest bridge on theTideway. These are popular for their attractive tree-lined residential roads and an eclectic range of shops andcafés. St Margarets is the location ofTwickenham Studios, one of Greater London's major film studios.

East Twickenham abuts the River Thames at Richmond Bridge and St Margarets has its river frontage immediately to the north. The great estate of Cambridge Park, home ofRichard Owen Cambridge, the 18th-century satirical poet, was located here.

Nearest places

[edit]

Education

[edit]
Richmond upon Thames College
Main article:List of schools in Richmond upon Thames

Twickenham has a university and several schools in Twickenham including secondary schools, primary schools and kindergartens. Many of these are easily accessible by the local bus network mentioned in theTransport section.

Richmond upon Thames College, a college of further and higher education, is on Egerton Road in Twickenham.

St Mary's University, Twickenham has been located in Twickenham since moving from Hammersmith in 1925.

Transport

[edit]

Until 1971London Transport operated abus depot known as Twickenham garage (coded AB) on Cambridge Road, East Twickenham. The relevantdestination blind for garage journeys always referred to this location asRichmond Bridge, which was close by. On closure, all its routes and vehicles were transferred toFulwell bus garage, but the building remained under the ownership of London Transport until the mid-1990s when it was demolished to make way for a housing development.

Fulwell garage was originally the base forLondon United Tramways in south Middlesex.[30] Thetrams were replaced bytrolleybuses that started operating from Fulwell garage in the 1930s. The trolleybuses were later replaced byAEC Routemaster buses and Middlesex's last trolleybus terminated here on the night of 8 May 1962, following a commemorative circuit of the Fulwell routes by Middlesex's first trolleybus, No.1 of the A1 class Felthams, known as "Diddlers". This vehicle is preserved in working order.

OriginallyTwickenham railway station was situated on the western side of theA310 London Road bridge before the new station was opened on the eastern side. This accounts for roads named Railway Approach and Station Road, which now give no access to the station.

Nearest railway stations

[edit]

The main railway station in the town isTwickenham itself, althoughSt Margarets,Whitton,Fulwell andStrawberry Hill stations are also within the Twickenham post town. Stations in nearby towns (all, except for Richmond and Isleworth, once part of the former Borough of Twickenham) are:

Buses

[edit]

London Buses serving Twickenham are:

RouteStartEndOperator
33Fulwell stationCastelnauLondon United
110Hounslow bus stationHammersmith bus stationLondon United
267Fulwell bus garageHammersmith bus stationLondon United
281Hounslow bus stationTolworthLondon United
290TwickenhamStainesTransport UK London Bus
481KingstonWest Middlesex University HospitalTransport UK London Bus
490Heathrow Terminal 5RichmondTransport UK London Bus
H22HounslowWest Middlesex University HospitalLondon United
R68Kew Retail ParkHampton CourtTransport UK London Bus
R70HamptonRichmondTransport UK London Bus
N22Oxford CircusFulwellLondon General
N33Fulwell stationHammersmith bus stationLondon United

All above routes serve King Street in the town centre apart from the 110 and the 481. The 481 runs through western Twickenham and the 110 runs through northern Twickenham. The N22 and the N33 only operate at night (00:00–05:00).

Sport

[edit]
The Exchange, Twickenham
Twickenham Museum
The Cabbage Patch pub in Twickenham

Twickenham is home to the headquarters of theRugby Football Union andTwickenham Stadium. TheEngland national rugby union team play all their home matches at Twickenham Stadium, which is England's second largest sports stadiums and the world's largest rugby union stadium.Harlequins, arugby union club, play at theTwickenham Stoop.

Twickenham Stadium hostedRugby World Cup fixtures in 1991, 1999, 2015 and later including semi-final matches in 1999 and the final matches in 1991, 2015, and soon 2025.

Arts and culture

[edit]

The Exchange is a community building, including a 320-seat theatre, opposite Twickenham railway station. It opened in October 2017.[31] The building is owned byRichmond upon Thames Council and is managed bySt Mary's University, Twickenham.[32][33]

TheTwickenham Museum is a volunteer-run museum[34] opposite St Mary's parish church. It is open every day except Mondays.

The Cabbage Patch pub on London Road has, since 1983, been a regular venue for live music on Sunday nights, organised byTwickFolk.[35][36]

Public art

[edit]
Main article:Pope's Urn
Pope'sUrn on Twickenham riverside

In 2015, working in partnership withRichmond upon Thames Council and the architectural design practiceFeilden Clegg Bradley Studios, Twickenham residentGraham Henderson conceived, designed, built and installedPope's Urn, an important contemporary piece of public art, inspired by the poetry ofAlexander Pope.[37] Enjoying a central position on the Twickenham riverside, the sculpture was commissioned to celebrate the2015 Rugby World Cup, and was opened in a ceremony in September 2015.[38]

Places of worship

[edit]
NameDenomination/AffiliationAddressWebsiteImage
All HallowsChurch of England138 Chertsey Road, Twickenham TW1 1EWwebsite
All SaintsChurch of EnglandCampbell Road, Twickenham TW2 5BYwebsite
Church's interior
Amyand Park ChapelReformed Baptist174 Amyand Park Road, Twickenham TW1 3HYwebsiteArchived 2 April 2015 at theWayback Machine
Free Grace BaptistGrace BaptistPowdermill Lane, Twickenham TW2 6EJwebsite
Holy TrinityChurch of England1 Vicarage Road, Twickenham TW2 5TSwebsite
St JamesRoman Catholic61 Pope's Grove, Twickenham TW1 4JZwebsite
The church hall in Radnor Road
St Mary'sChurch of EnglandChurch Street, Twickenham TW1 3NJwebsite
St Stephen'sChurch of EnglandRichmond Road, East Twickenham TW1 2PDwebsite
Salvation ArmySalvation ArmyMay Road, Twickenham TW2 6QPwebsite
MethodistMethodistQueen's Road, Twickenham TW1 4ENwebsiteArchived 8 September 2015 at theWayback Machine
United ReformedUnited Reformed ChurchFirst Cross Road, Twickenham TW2 5QAwebsite

People

[edit]
Main article:List of people from Richmond upon Thames
15 Montpelier Row's residents have includedAlfred, Lord Tennyson andPete Townshend
Andrzej Panufnik, who lived and died in a house on Twickenham Riverside

Living people

[edit]

Historical figures

[edit]
J. M. W. Turner's home,Sandycombe Lodge, in 1814

See also

[edit]

Notes

[edit]
  1. ^Twickenham is made up of 6 wards in the London Borough of Richmond upon Thames: Heathfield, St Margarets and North Twickenham, South Twickenham, Twickenham Riverside, West Twickenham, and Whitton."2011 Census Ward Population Estimates". November 2012. Archived fromthe original on 22 February 2014. Retrieved12 August 2020.

References

[edit]
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  2. ^"The Arcadian Thames". Thames Landscape Strategy. Retrieved15 January 2017.
  3. ^Brewer's Dictionary of Phrase & Fable, 20th edition, Chambers Publishing
  4. ^"Key to English Place-names".
  5. ^"First written mention of 'Tuican hom' in a Charter".Twickenham Museum. Retrieved2 February 2018.
  6. ^"Domesday Book – Hampton".Twickenham Museum. Retrieved15 January 2017.
  7. ^Weinreb, Ben;Hibbert, Christopher (1993).The London Encyclopaedia. London: PaperMac. p. 1004.ISBN 0333576888.OCLC 28963301.
  8. ^abCobbett, Richard Stuteley,Memorials of Twickenham: parochial and topographical (Smith, Elder & Co., 1872), p. 402
  9. ^Knight, Laurence (19 July 2014)."Sulphur surplus: Up to our necks in a diabolical element".BBC News magazine. Retrieved19 July 2014.
  10. ^Alabama (1819).Alabama laws and joint resolutions of the Legislature of Alabama. New York Public Library. Catawba : Printed by Allen & Brickell, State Printers.
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  12. ^"Shopping in Twickenham".Twickenham Museum. Retrieved10 February 2020.
  13. ^Urwin, A C B (1977),The Coming of Electricity to Twickenham, Borough of Twickenham Local History Society Paper 37
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  35. ^Webb, Jela (2008)."TwickFolk: Music for the Folks!". Maverick. Retrieved4 September 2016.
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  37. ^Flood, Alison (28 September 2015)."Alexander Pope is granted eternal sunshine of a Twickenham memorial".The Guardian. Retrieved20 March 2018.
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  61. ^Rahman, Nor."William A. C. Goode".NLB Infopedia.
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  64. ^"Riverside, Twickenham".Twickenham Museum. Retrieved22 November 2020.
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