Ford began studying interior architecture atThe New School's art and design college,Parsons The New School for Design, in New York City.[14] He continued to frequent Studio 54, where he realized he was gay.[15][16] The club'sdisco-era glamor would be a major influence on his later designs.[17][18] Before his last year at New School, Ford spent a year and a half inParis, where he worked as anintern inChloé's press office, inspiring his interest in fashion.[19][20][21] He spent his final year at The New School studying fashion, but graduated with a degree inarchitecture.[21][22]
When interviewing for jobs after graduation, Ford said that he had attendedThe New School's Parsons division, but concealed that he graduated in architecture,[23] and that his work at Chloé was a low-level public relations position. Despite his lack of experience in fashion, Ford called American designer Cathy Hardwick every day for a month in hopes of securing a job at her sportswear company. Hardwick eventually agreed to interview him. She later recalled the incident: "I had every intention of giving him no hope. I asked him who his favorite European designers were. He said, 'Armani andChanel.' Months later I asked him why he said that, and he said, 'Because you were wearing something Armani.' Is it any wonder he got the job?" Ford worked as a design assistant for Hardwick for two years.[23]
In 1988, Ford moved toPerry Ellis,[23] where he knew both Robert McDonald, the company's president, andMarc Jacobs, its designer, socially. He worked at the company for two years, but grew tired of working in American fashion. In a later interview withThe New York Times, he commented, "If I was ever going to become a good designer, I had to leave America. My own culture was inhibiting me. Too much style in America is tacky. It's looked down upon to be too stylish. Europeans, however, appreciate style."[24][25]
At the time, Italian fashion houseGucci was struggling financially and was seeking to strengthen its women's ready-to-wear presence as a part of a brand overhaul. The company's creative director,Dawn Mello said, "no one would dream of wearing Gucci". In 1990, Mello hired Ford as the brand's chief women's ready-to-wear designer and Ford moved toMilan.[23] "I was talking to a lot of people, and most didn't want the job," Mello said. "For an American designer to move to Italy to join a company that was far from being a brand would have been pretty risky." Ford and his longtime partner, fashion journalist Richard Buckley, relocated to Milan that September.[23]
Ford's role at Gucci rapidly expanded; he was designingmenswear within six months, and shoes soon after that. When Richard Lambertson left as design director in 1992, Ford took over his position,[23] heading the brand's ready-to-wear,fragrances, image,advertising, and store design. In 1993, when he was in charge of designing eleven product lines, Ford worked eighteen-hour days. During these years, there were creative tensions between Ford andMaurizio Gucci, the company's chairman and 50% owner. According to Mello, "Maurizio always wanted everything to be round and brown, and Tom wanted to make it square and black." Though Maurizio Gucci wanted to fire Ford,Domenico De Sole insisted that he remain.[23] Nonetheless, Ford's work during the early 1990s was primarily behind the scenes; his contributions to Gucci were overshadowed by those of Mello, who was the company's public face.
Evening dress by Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Selected asDress of the Year for 2004
In 1994, Ford was promoted to Creative Director ofGucci. In his first year at the helm, he introducedHalston-style velvethipsters, skinnysatin shirts and car-finish metallic patent boots.[26] In 1995, he brought in FrenchstylistCarine Roitfeld and photographerMario Testino to create a series of new ad campaigns for the company.[27] Between 1995 and 1996, sales atGucci increased by 90%. At one point, Ford was the largest individualshareholder of Gucci stock and options. By 1999, the house, which had been almost insolvent when Ford joined, was valued at more than $4 billion.[28]
When Gucci acquired the house ofYves Saint Laurent (YSL) in 1999, Ford was named Creative Director of that label as well.[29]Saint Laurent did not hide his displeasure with Ford's designs, stating "The poor man does what he can."[30] During his time as creative director for YSL, Ford nonetheless won numerousCouncil of Fashion Designers of America Awards. Ford was able to pull the classic fashion house back into the mainstream.[31] His advertising campaigns for the YSL fragrancesOpium (with a red-hairedSophie Dahl naked wearing only a necklace andstiletto heels in a sexually suggestive pose)[32] and YSLM7 (withmartial arts champion Samuel de Cubber in complete full-frontal nudity)[33] werecontroversial and provocative.[34]
In April 2004, Ford parted ways with the Gucci group after he and CEO Domenico de Sole, who is credited as Ford's partner in Gucci's success, failed to agree withPinault Printemps Redoute's boss over control of the Group.[28][35] He has since referred to this experience as "devastating" and as a "midlife crisis" because he had "put everything into that for fifteen years".[36] When Ford left in 2004,Gucci Group was valued at $10 billion.[35] Four people were hired to split the work Ford had done.[37]
A dress Ford designed in 2018 in theMetropolitan Museum of Art exhibitionIn America: A Lexicon of FashionA Tom Ford boutique in Toronto
After leavingGucci, Ford launched a line of menswear, beauty, eyewear, and accessories in 2006, named after himself. De Sole became chairman of the label.[38] Ford has described "theTom Ford customer" as international, cultured, well-traveled, and possessingdisposable income. For women, he added "strong women, … intelligent women who know their own style".[39]
In 2013, Ford was mentioned inJustin Timberlake's song "Suit & Tie", which was a collaboration withJay-Z; he created the suits, shirts, and accessories for theGrammy-winning music video.[44] He went on to dress Timberlake's20/20 Experience World Tour, designing over 600 pieces for the tour.[47][48] The same year, Jay-Z released the song "Tom Ford".[49][50] Ford responded that he was flattered and "it means that one has really penetrated and made an impact on popular culture."[51] Following the song's release, Ford received a huge spike in online search engine queries.[44][52] The song would go on to sell over a million copies and becomecertified platinum.[53]
In November 2022, the Tom Ford beauty brand was purchased byEstée Lauder for $2.8 billion.[54]Forbes estimated that Ford would earn $1.1 billion from the deal.[55] The following April, Ford stepped down as the brand's creative director and was succeeded by designer Peter Hawkings.[56] The Tom Ford brand is now owned byThe Estée Lauder Companies while the fashion business is owned by theErmenegildo Zegna Group through Tom Ford International.
Ford has been criticized for using naked women in various ad campaigns. Various journalists asserted that the ads were vulgar, sexist, or objectified women. One ad featured a nude woman holding a bottle of the perfume between her legs. Another featured a naked woman ironing a man's pants while he read a newspaper. A separate ad was banned in Italy.[57][58][59][60]
Responding to criticism that he objectified women, Ford stated he is an "equal opportunity objectifier" and is "just as happy to objectify men". He argued "you can't show male nudity in our culture in the way you can show female nudity" and pointed out that he did a male nude ad while at Yves Saint Laurent which got pulled.[61][62]
In 2014, Ford released a new product called the Penis Pendant Necklace. The product caused some controversy, with Christians calling it offensive due to the pendant being shaped similar to aChristian cross orcrucifix.[63][64] Ford replied that "it was not meant to be a cross, it was a phallus" and "people read into things what they want to".[62]
In 2022, Ford criticized theMet Gala, stating the event had "turned into a costume party".[65]
In March 2005, Ford announced the launch of his film production company, Fade to Black. In 2009 he made his directorial debut withA Single Man,[23] based on the novel of the same name byChristopher Isherwood. The drama starsColin Firth as an LA-based college professor who is gay, alongsideJulianne Moore,Nicholas Hoult andMatthew Goode. The novel was adapted byDavid Scearce and Ford, with Ford also being a producer.
Ford maintains a policy of refusing to dress politicians regardless of their party or views.[citation needed] He said of his decision, "I think that whoever is the President, or the First Lady, should be wearing clothes at a price point that are accessible to most Americans, and wearing clothes made in America. My clothes are made in Italy [and] they're very, very expensive. I don't think most women or men in our country can relate to that, and I think the First Lady or the President should represent all people."[79]
Ford has advocated for federal recognition ofsame-sex marriage in the United States. In a 2009 interview, he said he preferred the term "civil partnership" for both opposite-sex and same-sex partnerships, and to leave "marriage" to religion to decide.[80]
Ford considers "obsession with political correctness" as something which negatively impacts modern fashion designers. He said, "Cancel culture inhibits design because rather than feeling free, the tendency is to start locked into a set of rules. Everything is now considered appropriation. We used to be able to celebrate other cultures. Now you can't do that."[81]
While Ford was in amonogamous relationship for many years, he "continue[d] to promote himself with a youthful and sexually charged image".[91] He is known for sexy clothes, making provocative statements, and creating racy advertisements.[93] Ford's designs convey a "sophisticated sex appeal"[94] and he has been credited for "bringing sexy back".[95][96][97][98] His advertisement campaigns have drawn controversy for use of nudity and "provocative sexual imagery".[61][99] Ford is also known to pose with celebrities and models in his ad campaigns.[95] He has been called the "King of Sex" and "the straightest gay man in the world".[93]
Ford savedGucci from near bankruptcy and transformed it into a fashion powerhouse.[35][100] His decade as the creative director was hailed as a "golden era" for Gucci.[101] He turned the brand around, replacing the "grunge look" with "sexy, yet sophisticated, clothes".[100][102] He is known for his bold designs.[103] TheNew York Magazine wrote "Every season, Ford created an 'It' piece, a must-have, a season-defining trend, photographed to death, knocked offad nauseam."[104] Ford says it is important for designers to be contemporary and current with the changing standard of beauty.[105][106]
In 2004, Ford published an eponymous monograph, detailing his early career and his design work for Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent from 1990 to 2004. In 2021, seventeen years later, Ford published a follow-up volume entitledTom Ford 002, which described his career from 2005 including the creation of his ownfashion label and the production of his two films. Both books are published byRizzoli International Publications and co-authored by fashion journalist Bridget Foley, with forewords byAnna Wintour.
In September 2013, rapperJay-Z released the song "Tom Ford". Ford responded favorably to the song: "Who would not be flattered to have an entire Jay-Z track named after them? I mean [...] it's pretty rare that something like that happens. It's a kind of validation of one's work, as it means that one has really penetrated and made an impact on popular culture."[107] The song was nominated for theGrammy Award for Best Rap Performance in 2014.[108] Also in 2013, Ford was mentioned in the song "Suit & Tie" byJustin Timberlake featuring Jay-Z.[109][110] He created the suits, shirts, and accessories for the Grammy-winning music video.[44]
Ford's residence in Santa Fe, Cerro Pelon Ranch, is a 24,000-acre private tract designed by Japanese architectTadao Ando and constructed for Ford.[117] It has additional structures that were designed byMarmol Radziner and features a fictional town known as Silverado, used as a filming location for Westerns.[118] In 2024, Ford purchased a mansion in theChelsea district of London for £80 million (approximately $104 million), making it the UK's most expensive residential real estate transaction of the year.[119][120][121] His real estate portfolio is valued at over $300 million and includes properties such as theHamptons estate once owned byJacqueline Kennedy Onassis and aPalm Beach mansion.[120]
Ford has said in multiple interviews that artistIan Falconer was his first lover,[123][124] and maintains that he and Falconer remained good friends until Falconer's death in 2023; decades after their breakup, Ford lent Falconer's surname to the title character of his filmA Single Man.[125]
^Klein, Alyssa Vingan (August 27, 2014)."Tom Ford's 20 Sexiest Ad Campaigns of All Time".Fashionista. Breaking Media. RetrievedApril 18, 2016.Throughout his illustrious career, he's credited with bringing the sexy back to mega-brands like Gucci and Saint Laurent
^"request - Filmmaker Magazine".Filmmaker Magazine | Publication with a focus on independent film, offering articles, links, and resources. December 7, 2012. RetrievedMay 7, 2025.