 Italian tricorne hat, mid-18th century | |
| Type | Hat |
|---|---|
| Material | Animal fiber |
| Introduced | 17th century |
Thetricorne ortricorn is a style of hat in a triangular shape, which became popular in Europe during the 18th century, falling out of style by the early 1800s. The word "tricorne" was not widely used until the mid-19th century. During the 18th century, hats of this general style were referred to as "cocked hats".
At the peak of its popularity, the tricorne varied greatly in style and size, and was worn not only by the aristocracy, but also as common civilian dress, and as part of military and naval uniforms.[1] Typically made from animal fiber, the more expensive being of beaver-hair felt and the less expensive of wool felt, the hat's most distinguishing characteristic was that three sides of the brim were turned up (cocked) and either pinned, laced, or buttoned in place to form a triangle around the crown. The style served two purposes: first, it allowed stylish gentlemen to show off the most current fashions of their wigs, and thus their social status; and secondly, the cocked hat, with its folded brim, was much smaller than other hats, and therefore could be more easily tucked under an arm when going inside a building, where social etiquette dictates that a gentleman should remove his hat. Tricornes with laced sides could have the laces loosened and the sides dropped down to provide better protection from the weather, sun, and rain.[2][3]
Tricornes had a rather broadbrim, pinned up on either side of the head and at the back, producing a triangular shape. The hat was typically worn with one point facing forward, though it was not at all unusual for soldiers, who would often rest a rifle or musket on their right shoulder, to wear the tricorne pointed to the left to allow better clearance. Thecrown is low, unlike thesteeple hats worn by thePuritans or thetop hat of the 19th century.[4]
Tricornes ranged from the very simple and cheap to the extravagant, occasionally incorporating gold or silverlace trimming and feathers. In addition, military and naval versions usually bore acockade or other national emblem at the front. This style of hat remains in use in a number of countries to the present day as an item ofceremonial dress.
The tricorne appeared as a result of the evolution of thebroad-brim round hat used by Spanish soldiers inFlanders during the 17th century.[5] By pledging (binding) the brims, a triangular shape was obtained. This shape was favored by Spanish soldiers, as when standing at arms their muskets could be held at their shoulders right or left without hitting thehat brim.War broke out between France and Spain in 1667 over theSpanish Netherlands, and during the subsequent struggle its use spread to the French armies. The style was brought back to France, where its usage spread to the French population and the royal court of KingLouis XIV, who made it fashionable throughout Europe, both as a civilian and military wear. By the end of the 17th century, the tricorne was popular in both civilian fashion and in military uniforms. They remained one of the predominant European styles of hat throughout the 18th century. In the United States, onlythe first five presidents, fromGeorge Washington toJames Monroe, wore this style of hat according to thefashion of the 18th century.[6][7] James Monroe earnedthe nickname "The Last Cocked Hat"[8] because of this.
The tricorne quickly declined in use at the end of the 18th century. It evolved into thebicorne,[9] which was widely used by military officers in Europe from the 1790s untilWorld War I, not completely fading out of style untilWorld War II. For enlisted soldiers, the tricorne was replaced by theshako at the turn of the 19th century, which had become the new dominant style of military headgear from 1800 on.[10] Also at the turn of the 19th century, as the fashionable hat for civilian men, the tricorne was overtaken by thetop hat.[11] In 1917, theWomen's Royal Naval Service introduced a smaller, modernised version of the tricorne for female officers.[12]
Tricornes survive today as part of the traditional dress of theChelsea Pensioners (UK)[13] and theOld Guard Fife and Drum Corps of the United States Army,[14] and the distinctive hat[15] of the SpanishGuardia Civil, called atricornio in Spanish, originates from the tricorne. In the UK, a black feathered tricorne hat is part of the ceremonial dress of mostLord Mayors; at the annualLord Mayor's Show in November, the newly electedLord Mayor of the City of London can usually be seen enthusiastically waving his tricorne at the crowds.[16] In the British Parliament until recently, both theLord Chancellor and theSpeaker of the House of Commons used to carry plain black tricornes as part of their formal dress each day when on duty; only on rare occasions was it worn (on top of the full bottomed wig): by the Lord Chancellor when acting as aLord Commissioner of the Sovereign, and by the Speaker when rebuking a Member at the Bar of the House. During the Introduction Ceremony, new members of theHouse of Lords were required to doff (remove and replace) a tricorne hat three times before the Lord Chancellor; however, hats were removed from the ritual in 1998.[17]
In the United States, the tricorne is associated with theAmerican Revolution and AmericanPatriots of that era, especiallyMinutemen (militia members of theAmerican Colonies).[18] Participants in re-enactment events often don tricornes, and they also can be seen in sports culture as worn by fans of teams with Revolutionary names, such as theNew England Patriots (anAmerican football team),[19] theNew England Revolution (aMajor League Soccer team),[20] theUnited States men's national soccer team, theUniversity of Massachusetts Amherst,[21] and theGeorge Washington University. TheTea Party movement also uses the tricorne as an icon to associate itself with the American Revolution.[22]
In Spain, the traditional headdress of theGuardia Civil, the oldest law enforcement agency covering the whole country, is thetricornio hat, originally a tricorne. Its use now is reserved for parades or ceremonies. The Royal Corps of Halberdiers within theSpanish Royal Guard wear blue and white with a silver ribbon tricorne as part of their formal dress.[23]
In France, synagogue officiants (usually not rabbis) wear the tricorne on formal occasions. In the French Navy and Air Force, tricornes are still worn by women as a piece of uniform.
The tricorne is a key feature in thePortugueseUniversity of Minho's academic dress. Its origins are as far as 18th century, as being the academic dress of Colégio de Estudos Superiores de S. Paulo, as depicted by tile panels in theArchbishop's Palace of Braga (now Rectorate of the University of Minho). Designated by "Tricórnio" (Portuguese for "tricorne"), this academic dress was redesigned and officially set in 1989.
In Canada, the tricorne is part of the ceremonial wear of the Speakers, both in the federal Parliament and in some provincial legislatures. It is also part of the ceremonial dress for justices of the Supreme Court of Canada.
In 1981, the millinerJohn Boyd made a famous pink tricorne hat forDiana, Princess of Wales. This style became known as the "Lady Di" design and was copied worldwide.[24]
Media related toTricorne hats at Wikimedia Commons
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