The Mariana Islands are shown, with the territory ofGuam to the extreme south, and the Commonwealth of theNorthern Mariana Islands (14 islands) to the north. Active volcanoes are shown with triangles.
TheMariana Islands (/ˌmæriˈɑːnə/MARR-ee-AH-nə;Chamorro:Manislan Mariånas), also simplythe Marianas, are a crescent-shapedarchipelago comprising the summits of fifteen longitudinally oriented, mostlydormant volcanic mountains in the north-westernPacific Ocean, between the12th and21st parallels north and along the145th meridian east. They lie south-southeast of Japan, west-southwest ofHawaii, north ofNew Guinea, and east of thePhilippines, demarcating thePhilippine Sea's eastern limit. They are found in the northern part of the westernOceanic sub-region ofMicronesia, and are politically divided into two jurisdictions of the United States: the Commonwealth of theNorthern Mariana Islands and, at the southern end of the chain, the territory ofGuam. The islands were named after the influential Spanish queenMariana of Austria following their colonization in the 17th century.
The indigenous inhabitants are theChamorro people. Archaeologists in 2013 reported findings which indicated that the people who first settled the Marianas arrived there after making what may have been at the time the longest uninterrupted ocean voyage in human history. They further reported findings which suggested thatTinian is likely to have been the first island in Oceania to have been settled by humans.[1]
Spanish expeditions, beginning with one by Portuguese explorerFerdinand Magellan in the early 16th century, were the first Europeans to arrive; eventually, Spain annexed and colonized the archipelago, establishing their capital on the largest island, Guam. The Marianas were the first islands Magellan encountered after traversing the Pacific from the southern tip of South America. The fruits found there saved the survivors fromscurvy, which had already killed dozens of crewmembers.
Geology of the west Pacific in the area of the Mariana Islands. The Mariana Islands are at map-right, east of the Philippine Sea and just west of theMariana Trench in the ocean floor.
The Mariana Islands are the southern part of a submergedmountain range that extends 1,565 miles (2,519 km) from Guam to near Japan. Geographically, the Marianas are part of a larger region calledMicronesia, situated between13° and21°N latitude and144° and146°E longitude.
The Mariana Islands have a total land area of 1,008 km2 (389 sq mi).[2]They are composed of two administrative units:
The island chain geographically consists of two subgroups, a northern group of ten volcanic main islands, all are currently uninhabited; and a southern group of five coralline limestone islands (Rota, Guam,Aguijan,Tinian andSaipan), all of which are inhabited except for Aguijan. In the northern volcanic group a maximum elevation of about 2,700 feet (820 m) is reached; there are craters showing signs of activity, and earthquakes are not uncommon. Coral reefs fringe the coasts of the southern isles, which are of slight elevation.
The lowest point on the Earth's crust, theMariana Trench, is near the islands and is named after them.
The majority of islands in the Marianas still retain their indigenous names ending in the letters -an; for example,Guahan (the indigenous name of Guam),Agrigan,Agrihan,Aguihan/Aguigan,Pagan, Sarigan,Saipan, andTinian.
The islands are part of ageologic structure known as theIzu–Bonin–Mariana Arc system. The island chain arose as a result of the western edge of thePacific Plate moving westward and plunging downward below theMariana plate, a region which is the most volcanically active convergent plate boundary on Earth. Thissubduction region, just east of the island chain, forms the notedMariana Trench, the deepest part of the Earth's oceans and lowest part of the surface of the Earth's crust. In this region, according to geologic theory, water trapped in the extensive faulting of the Pacific Plate asserpentinite, is heated by the higher temperatures of depth during its subduction, the pressure from the expanding steam results in the hydrothermal activity in the area and the volcanic activity which formed the Mariana Islands.[3]
All the islands, exceptFarallon de Medinilla andUracas orFarallon de Pajaros (in the northern group), are more or less denselyforested, and the vegetation is dense, much resembling that of theCarolines and also of the Philippines, from where species of plants have been introduced. Owing to the moistness of the soilcryptogams are numerous, as are also most kinds of grasses. On most of the islands there is a plentiful supply of water.
The fauna of the Marianas, though inferior in number and variety, is similar in character to that of theCarolines and certain species are indigenous to both island groups. The climate though damp is healthy, while the heat, being tempered by thetrade winds, is milder than that of the Philippines; the variations of temperature are not great[clarification needed].
The islands are part of ageologic structure known as theIzu–Bonin–Mariana Arc system. The islands are formed as the highly dense and very old western edge of thePacific Plate plunges downward to form the floor of theMariana Trench and carries trapped water under the Mariana plate as it does so. This water is super-heated as the plate is carried farther downward and results in the volcanic activity which has formed the arc of Mariana Islands above thissubduction region.
The Mariana Islands were the first islands settled by humans inRemote Oceania. Incidentally it is also the first and the longest of the ocean-crossing voyages of theAustronesian peoples into Remote Oceania, and is separate from the laterPolynesian settlement of the rest of Remote Oceania. They were first settled around 1500 to 1400 BCE by migrants departing from thePhilippines.[6][7]
Archeological studies of human activity on the islands have revealed pottery with red-slipped, circle-stamped and punctate-stamped designs found in the Mariana Islands dating from between 1500 and 1400 BC. These artifacts show similar aesthetics to pottery found in Northern and Central Philippines, particularly Nagsabaran (Cagayan Valley) pottery, which flourished during the period between 2000 and 1300 BC.[6]
Comparative and historical linguistics also indicate that theChamorro language is most closely related to thePhilippine subfamily of theAustronesian languages, instead of theOceanic subfamily of the languages found in the rest of Remote Oceania.[6][8]
Ruins ofGuma Taga on Tinian. The pillars/columns are called latte (pronounced læ'di) stones, a common architectural element of prehistoric structures in the Mariana Islands, upon which elevated buildings were built. Earthquakes had toppled the other latte at this site by the time this photo was taken; an earthquake in 1902 toppled the one seen on the left, and today only the one on the right remains standing.
Mitochondrial DNA andwhole genome sequencing of theChamorro people strongly support an ancestry from the Philippines. Genetic analysis of pre-Latte period skeletons in Guam also show that they do not haveAustralo-Melanesian ("Papuan") ancestry, which rules out origins from theBismarck Archipelago,New Guinea, and easternIndonesia. TheLapita culture itself (the ancestral branch of the Polynesian migrations) is younger than the first settlement of the Marianas (the earliest Lapita artifacts are dated to around 1350 to 1300 BCE), indicating that they originated from separate migration voyages.[9][10]
Nevertheless, DNA analyses also show close genetic relationships between ancient settlers of the Marianas and early Lapita settlers in theBismarck Archipelago. This may indicate that both the Lapita culture and the Marianas were settled from direct migrations from the Philippines, or that early settlers from the Marianas voyaged further southwards into the Bismarcks and reconnected with the Lapita people.[9]
The Marianas also later established contact with and received migrations from theCaroline Islands at around the first millennium CE. This brought new pottery styles, languages, genes, and the hybrid Polynesianbreadfruit.[11]
The period 900 to 1700 CE of the Marianas, immediately before and during the Spanish colonization, is known as theLatte period. It is characterized by rapid cultural change, most notably by the massivemegalithiclatte stones (also spelledlatde orlatti). These were composed of thehaligi pillars capped with another stone calledtasa (which prevented rodents from climbing the posts). These served as supports for the rest of the structure which was made of wood. Remains of structures made with similar wooden posts have also been found. Human graves have also been found in front oflatte structures, TheLatte period was also characterized by the introduction ofrice agriculture, which is unique in the pre-contactPacific Islands.[12]
The reasons for these changes is still unclear, but it is believed that it may have resulted from a third wave of migrants fromIsland Southeast Asia. Comparisons with other architectural traditions makes it likely that this third migration wave were again from the Philippines, or from easternIndonesia (eitherSulawesi orSumba), all of which have a tradition of raised buildings with capstones. The wordhaligi ("pillar") is also used in various languages throughout the Philippines; while the Chamorro wordguma ("house") closely resembles the Sumba worduma.[12]
The first Europeans to see the island group were a Spanish expedition, who on March 6, 1521, observed a string of islands and sailed between two of them during aSpanish expedition of world circumnavigation under the command ofFerdinand Magellan. Historically, the southern village ofUmatac, Guam has been credited as the site of the Spanish landing. As confirmation, a scholarly study of the navigator's diary, now kept in preservation in thePhilippines, revealed a drawing of the islands with a tiny island to the south of a much larger island above it. The described placement of the islands confirms that Magellan had actually sailed between Guam andCocos Island, and not Guam andRota, as some originally thought, especially since the northern areas of Guam do not have safe coves or harbors to anchor.[citation needed] Moreover, the waters of Northern Guam are often rougher and the currents are even more treacherous in comparison to the safer coves and currents seen by the southwestern side of Guam.[citation needed]
Regardless of where they landed, the Spanish ships arrived in Guam and were unable to get fresh food as the inhabitants,Chamorros, "entered the ships and stole whatever they could lay their hands on", including "the small boat that was fastened to the poop of the flagship", according to Spanish crewman Antonio Pigafetta.[13]: 129 The Spanish crew, in retaliation, attacked the Chamorros and dubbed the islandsIslas de los Ladrones (Islands of the Thieves). Wrote Pigafetta, "Those people are poor, but ingenious and very thievish, on account of which we called those three islands the islands of Ladrones."[13]: 131 Pigafetta writes,
And thecaptain-general wished to approach the largest of these three islands to replenish his provisions. But it was not possible, for the people of those islands entered the ships and robbed us so that we could not protect ourselves from them. And when we wished to strike and take in the sails so as to land, they stole very quickly the small boat called a skiff which was fastened to the poop of the captain's ship. At which he, being very angry, went ashore with forty armed men. And burning some forty or fifty houses with several boats and killing seven men of the said island, they recovered their skiff.
Pigafetta also described the boats the inhabitants used, including the sail shaped like a "lateen sail" (actually thecrab claw sail), hence the nameIslas de las Velas Latinas (Islands of theLateen Sails),[13]: 131 the name used as Magellan claimed them for the Spanish crown. San Lazarus archipelago, Jardines ('gardens') and Prazeres are among the names applied to them by later navigators.
A stamp from the Marianas' late Spanish colonial period, 1898–1899
In 1667,Spain formally claimed them, established a regularcolony there and in 1668 gave the islands the official title ofLas Marianas, in honor of Spanish QueenMariana of Austria, widow ofKing Philip IV of Spain and Queen Regent of theSpanish Empire ruling during the minority of her sonKing Charles II.[14] They then had a population of more than 50,000 inhabitants. With the arrival of passengers and settlers aboard theManila Galleons from the Americas, newdiseases were introduced in the islands, which caused many deaths in the nativeChamorro population.[15] The native population, who referred to themselves asTaotao Tano (people of the land)[16] but were known to the early Spanish colonists asChamurres orHachaMori,[17] eventually died out as a distinct people, though their descendants intermarried. At theSpanish occupation in 1668, the Chamorros were estimated at 50,000, but a century later only 1,800 natives remained, as the majority of the population was of mixed Spanish-Chamorro blood ormestizo.[citation needed] They were characteristicMicronesians, with a considerable civilization. On the island ofTinian are some remains attributed to them, consisting oftwo rows of massive square stone columns, about 5 feet 4 inches (1.63 m) broad and 14 feet (4.3 m) high, with heavy, roundcapitals calledlatte stones. According to early Spanish accountscinerary urns were found embedded in the capitals.[dubious –discuss]
When Spanish settlement started on 14 June 1668, they were subordinate to the Mexican colony (soon viceroyalty) ofNew Spain, until 1817, when they became subordinated to thePhilippines, as part of theSpanish East Indies.
Research in the archipelago was carried out byCommodore Anson, who in August 1742 landed upon the island of Tinian.[18] The Ladrones were visited byByron in 1765,Wallis in 1767 andJulien Crozet [fr] in 1772.
The Marianas and specifically the island of Guam were a stopover for Spanish galleons en route fromAcapulco,Mexico toManila, Philippines in a convoy known as theGaleon de Manila. Following the1872 Cavite mutiny, severalFilipinos were exiled to Guam, including the father ofPedro Paterno, Maximo Paterno, Dr. Antonio M. Regidor y Jurado and Jose Maria Basa.[19]: 107–108
The islands were a popular port of call for British and American whaling ships in the 19th century. The first such visit on record was that of theResource to Guam in October 1799.[20] The last known visit was made by the American whalerCharles W. Morgan in February 1904.[21]
Weakened from its defeat in the Spanish–American War,Spain could no longer effectively control and protect the nearly 6,000 islands it retained throughoutMicronesia, including the Northern Marianas,Carolines andPelew Islands. Therefore, Spain entered into theGerman-Spanish Treaty of February 12, 1899 to sell the Northern Marianas and its other remaining islands toGermany for 837,500German gold marks (aboutUS$4,100,000 at the time[citation needed]). The Northern Marianas and other island groups were incorporated by Germany as a small part of the largerGerman Protectorate of New Guinea. The total population in the Northern Marianas portion of these islands was only 2,646 inhabitants around this time, with the ten most northerly islands being actively volcanic and thus mostly uninhabited.[citation needed]
Japan, allied with theEntente Powers duringWorld War I, seized all of Germany's colonial possessions inEast Asia and Micronesia, including the Northern Mariana Islands, and held them through the end of the war. Under the terms of theTreaty of Versailles in 1919, Germany was stripped of all her colonies worldwide, including the Palau, Caroline, Northern Mariana and Marshall Islands. By international agreement, these were all placed into trusteeship under the management of theLeague of Nations which assigned them to Japan as the Class CSouth Seas Mandate. During this time, Japan used some of the islands forsugarcane production, modestly increasing the population of a few of the islands.
According to Werner Gruhl: "Mariana Island historians estimate that 10 percent of Guam's approximately 20,000 population were killed by violence, most by theJapanese Imperial Army andNavy."[24]
The direct result ofWorld War II on the Mariana Islands was that, after the war, theNorthern Mariana Islands came under the control of the United States in the same way they had earlier come under the control ofJapan after World War I. However, this time they became part of the U.S.-administeredTrust Territory of the Pacific Islands (TTPI) established pursuant toSecurity Council Resolution 21. The Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands later became aU.S. territory following its exit from the TTPI pursuant toSecurity Council Resolution 683. Although now both under U.S. control, the Northern Mariana Islands are separate fromGuam. Efforts atreunification have failed in part due to residual post-war tensions resulting from the very different histories of Guam (occupied by Japan for only 31 months, in wartime) and theNorthern Mariana Islands (more peacefully occupied by Japan, for about 30 years).
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Tourism in theNorthern Marianas is split mainly betweenFilipino, Japanese, American,Korean,Taiwanese, andChinese tourists. There are several large tour operators in Saipan that cater to Asian tourists coming to the island. By far, the majority of tourism in the Marianas is inGuam. Several flights a day land in Guam, mostly in the early hours between 1:00 AM and 3:30 AM. With the close of the garment industries in the Northern Marianas, tourism has grown slowly and is now a major part of theeconomy.[27] Many businesses on the islands rely on purchases from tourists, many of which are from East Asia. However, theCOVID-19 pandemic has severely taken a toll on tourism and the variety of nationalities arriving on the islands has rapidly dwindled, making Korean visitors comprise a large majority of tourist arrivals.[28] Guam and the Northern Mariana Islands have reported a 55.6% and 53% decrease in visitors between calendar years 2019 and 2024 respectively.[29][30] Adding to the decline in tourism is the delay ofelectronic travel authorizations for Chinese tourists, which is another major blow to the "already crumbling economy" of the Mariana Islands.[31] There is progress to combat the tourism decline, including plans such as the 2 year, $60 million tourist recovery plan backed by Guam governorLou Leon Guerrero and envisioned by the Guam Visitors Bureau.[32]
Common dishes in the Mariana Islands include red rice, meat or poultry on the grill or in coconut milk, chickenkelaguen,apigigi (youngcoconut withcassava paste wrapped in banana leaf),[33] and tropical fruits.
^abLaguana, Andrew; Kurashina, Hiro; Carson, Mike T.; Peterson, John A.; Bayman, James M.; Ames, Todd; Stephenson, Rebecca A.; Aguon, John; Harya Putra, Ir. D.K. (2012)."Estorian i latte: A story of latte"(PDF).Micronesica.42 (1/2):80–120.Archived(PDF) from the original on 2021-04-24. Retrieved2020-10-26.
^abcNowell, C. E. (1962). "Antonio Pigafetta's account".Magellan's Voyage Around the World. Evanston: Northwestern University Press.hdl:2027/mdp.39015008001532.OCLC347382.
^"About the CNMI".Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands Office of the Governor.Archived from the original on 17 August 2020. Retrieved5 November 2020.In 1668, 147 years after Magellan's encounter, Fr.Diego Luis de San Vitores, a Jesuit priest, arrived in The Marianas with the mission to convert and implement Christianity among the Chamorros, thus beginning the colonization of The Marianas by Spain. The islands were named after Queen Maria Ana of Spain.
^George, Lord Anion (1748).Voyage round the World, book iii.
^Foreman, J. (1906).The Philippine Islands, A Political, Geographical, Ethnographical, Social, and Commercial History of the Philippine Archipelago. New York: Charles Scribner's Sons.OCLC3913054.
^Langdon, Robert (1984).Where the whalers went: an index to the Pacific ports and islands by American whalers (and some other ships) in the 19th century. Canberra: Pacific Manuscripts Bureau. p. 160.ISBN0-86784-471-X.
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