Swat District ضلع سوات سوات اولسوالۍ | |
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| Nickname: Switzerland of Pakistan[1] | |
 Swat District (red) inKhyber Pakhtunkhwa | |
| Coordinates:35°12′N72°29′E / 35.200°N 72.483°E /35.200; 72.483 | |
| Country |  Pakistan |
| Province |  Khyber Pakhtunkhwa |
| Division | Malakand |
| Capital | Saidu Sharif |
| Largest city | Mingora |
| Number ofTehsils | 7 |
| Government | |
| • Type | District Administration |
| • Deputy Commissioner | N/A |
| • District Police Officer | N/A |
| • District Health Officer | N/A |
| Area | |
• Total | 5,337 km2 (2,061 sq mi) |
| Population | |
• Total | 2,687,384 |
| • Density | 500/km2 (1,300/sq mi) |
| • Urban | 794,368 (29.56%) |
| • Rural | 1,893,016 |
| Literacy | |
| • Literacy rate |
|
| Time zone | UTC+5 (PKT) |
| Area code | Area code 0946 |
| Languages (2017)[4] |
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| Website | swat |
Swat District (Urdu:ضلع سوات,Pashto:سوات اولسوالۍ,pronounced[ˈswaːt̪]), also known as theSwat Valley, is adistrict in theMalakand Division ofKhyber Pakhtunkhwa,Pakistan. Known for its stunning natural beauty, the district is a popular tourist destination. With a population of 2,687,384 per the2023 national census, Swat is the 15th-largest district of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa.
Swat District is centred on the Valley of Swat, usually referred to simply as Swat, which is a natural geographic region surrounding theSwat River. The valley was a major centre of earlyBuddhism of the ancient civilisation ofGandhara, mainlyGandharan Buddhism, with pockets of Buddhism persisting in the valley until the 16th centuryconquest of Swat by theYousafzais, after which the area became largely Muslim, along with thePashtunization of Swat and its neighbouring regions.[5][6][7][8]In the early 19th century, Swat emerged as an independent state underSaidu Baba.State of Swat became aPrincely state underBritish suzerainty as part of theBritish Raj in 1918.
In 1947, following thePartition of British India and subsequentindependence of Pakistan, Swat acceded to theDominion of Pakistan continuing as a self-governingprincely state until it was officially annexed and merged intoWest Pakistan and later became a part ofNorth-West Frontier Province (now Khyber Pakhtunkhwa) in 1969. The regionwas seized by theTehrik-i-Taliban in late-2007 until Pakistani controlwas re-established in mid-2009.[9][10]
The average elevation of Swat is 980 m (3,220 ft),[6] resulting in a considerably cooler and wetter climate compared to the rest of Pakistan. With lush forests, verdantalpine meadows, and snow-capped mountains, Swat is one of the country's most popular tourist destinations.[11][12]
The name "Swat" is derived from theSwat River. The Swat River referred to as theSuvāstu in the Rig Veda, with a literal meaning "of fair dwellings". Some have suggested the Sanskrit name may mean "clear blue water."[13] Another theory derives the word Swat from the Sanskrit wordshveta (lit. 'white'), also used to describe the clear water of the Swat River.[14] To the ancient Greeks, the river was known as theSoastus.[15][16][17][14] The Chinese pilgrimFaxian referred to Swat as theSu-ho-to.[18]
Swat's total area is 5,337 square kilometres (2,061 sq mi). Swat District consists of two well-defined geographic regions,Swat Kohistan and Swat Proper. Swat Kohistan forms the larger, northern part of the district, and is mainly inhabited by the indigenousKohistani,Torwali andKalami peoples. Swat Proper forms the lower portion of the district and has aPashtun majority, with a significantGujar population.[19]In terms of administrative divisions, Swat is surrounded byChitral,Upper Dir andLower Dir to the west,Gilgit-Baltistan to the north, andKohistan,Buner andShangla to the east and southeast, respectively. The formertehsil of Buner was granted the status of a separatedistrict in 1991.[20]
The Swat Valley is enclosed by mountains that forms a natural geographic boundary for it. TheSwat River whose headwaters arise in the 5,500-to-5,800-metre-tall (18,000–19,000 ft)Hindu Kush mountain range runs through the length of the region. The main area consists of many sub valleys such asKalam,Bahrain,Matiltan,Utror, andGabral.
The Valley of Swat is delineated by natural geographic boundaries, and is centered on the Swat River. The valley is enclosed on all sides by mountains, and is intersected by glens and ravines.[21] Above mountains ridges to the west is the valley of thePanjkora River, to the north the Gilgit Valley, andIndus River gorges to the east. To the south, across a series of low mountains, lies the widePeshawar valley.[22]
The northernmost area of Swat district are the high valleys and alpine meadows ofSwat Kohistan (Swat Mountains), a region where numerous glaciers feed theUsho, andGabral rivers (also known as the Utrar River), which form a confluence at Kalam, and thereafter forms the Swat river - which forms the spine of the Swat Valley and district. Swat then is characterized by thick forests along the narrow gorges of theKalam Valley until the city ofMadyan. From there, the river courses gently for 160 km through the wider Yousufzai Plains of the lowerSwat Valley untilChakdara.
Climate in Swat is a function of altitude, with mountains in the Kohistan region snow-clad year round. The upper areas of the region are relatively colder and often get snowfall in the winter. Drier, warmer temperatures in the lower portions in the Yousafzai Plains where summer temperatures can reach 105 °F (41 °C), although the lower plains experience occasional snow.[21] Both regions are subject to two monsoon seasons - one in winter and the other in summer. Swat's lower reaches have vegetation characterized by dry bush and deciduous trees, while the upper areas mostly have thick pine forests.[22]
TheSaidu Sharif Airport atKanju is a stone throw from Mingora, adding much to the tourism in the past. The runway is situated betweenSwat River and the Sham Baba mountainous range, with lush green gardens and large trees being added as "charm" to the climate in the area. More than 20 km² has been covered strategically, as was proposed during the last Wali's rule and constructed later-on by the Pakistani government. The Kanju village has seen an influx of academics in the region and is considered a hub for theMatta andKabal Tehsils of Swat Valley.
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TheGandhara grave culture that emergedc. 1400 BCE and lasted until 800 BCE,[23] and named for their distinct funerary practices, was found along the MiddleSwat River course.[24] Swat, then known asOddiyana, was a major centre ofGandhara civilization. In 327 BCE,Alexander the Great fought his way toOdigram andBarikot and stormed their battlements; inGreek accounts, these towns are identified asOra andBazira. After the Alexandrian invasion of Swat, and adjacent regions ofBuner, control of the wider Gandhara region was handed toSeleucus I Nicator.
In 305 BCE, theMauryan Emperor conquered the wider region from the Greeks, and probably established control of Swat, until their control of the region ceased around 187 BCE.[25] It was during the rule of the Mauryan emperorAshoka that Buddhism was introduced into Swat,[26] and some of the earliest stupas built in the region. Following collapse of Mauryan rule, Swat came under control of theGreco-Bactrians, and briefly theScythians of theCentral Asian Steppe.[27]
The region of Gandhara (based in thePeshawar valley and the adjacent hilly regions of Swat,Buner,Dir, andBajaur), broke away from Greco-Bactrian rule to establish their own independence as theIndo-Greek Kingdom.[28] Following the death of the most famous Indo-Greek king,Menander I around 140 BCE, the region was overrun by theIndo-Scythians, and then the PersianParthian Empire around 50 CE. The arrival of the Parthians began the long tradition ofGreco-Buddhist art, which was a syncretic form of art combining Buddhist imagery with heavy Hellenistic-Greek influences. This art form is credited with having the first representations of theBuddha in human form, rather than symbolically.[29]
The Parthians were ousted from Swat by theKushans, based in thePeshawar valley. Kushan rule began what is considered by many to be the golden age of Gandhara. Under the greatest Kushan king,Kanishka, Swat became an important region for the production of Buddhist art, and numerous Buddhists shrines were built in the area. As a patron ofMahayana Buddhism, new Buddhistsstupas were built and old ones were enlarged. The Chinese pilgrimFa-Hsien, who visited the valley around 403 CE, mentions 500 monasteries.[29]
![Shingardar Stupa, a 27-metre tall stupa built along the main road that enters Swat from the Peshawar Valley[30]](/mt/?noimg=&dark=on&url=http%3a%2f%2fen.wikipedia.org%2fwiki%2fFile%3aShingerdar_stupa_-_panoramio.jpg)
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Swat and the wider region of Gandhara were overrun by theAlchon Huns around about 465 CE.[32] Under the rule ofMihirakula, Buddhism was suppressed as he himself became virulently anti-Buddhist after a perceived slight against him by a Buddhist monk.[33] Under his rule, Buddhist monks were reportedly killed, and Buddhist shrines attacked.[33] He himself appears to have been inclined towards theShaivism sect ofHinduism.[33]
In around 520 CE, the Chinese monkSong Yun visited the area, and recorded that area had been in ruin and ruled by a leader that did not practice the laws of the Buddha.[34] TheTang-era Chinese monkXuanzang recorded the decline of Buddhism in the region, and ascendance of Hinduism in the region. According to him, of the 1400 monasteries that had supposedly been there, most were in ruins or had been abandoned.[35]
Following the collapse of Buddhism in Swat following the Alchon Hun invasion, Swat was ruled by theHindu Shahi dynasty beginning in the 8th century,[36] who made their capital atUdigram in lower Swat.[36] The Hindu Shahis are believed to belong to the Uḍi/Oḍi tribe, namely the people ofOddiyana, present-day Swat.[37][38]
The Shahis built an extensive array oftemples and other architectural buildings, of which ruins remain today. Under their rule,Hinduism ascended, andSanskrit is believed to have been thelingua franca of the locals during this time.[39] By the time of theMuslim conquests (c. 1000 CE), the population in the region was predominantlyHindu,[40]: 19 though Buddhism persisting in the valley until the 10th century, after which the area became largelyMuslim.[5][6] Hindu Shahi rulers built fortresses to guard and tax the commerce through this area,[41] and ruins dating back to their rule can be seen on the hills at the southern entrance of Swat, at theMalakand Pass.[42]
Around 1001 CE, the last Hindu Shahi king,Jayapala was decisively defeated at theBattle of Peshawar (1001) byMahmud of Ghazni, thereby ending 2 centuries of Hindu rule over Gandhara. TheSultanate of Swat was the lastDardic state that existed in the Swat valley between 12th and 16th centuries. It was conquered by theYousafzai Pashtuns from west during the reign of Sultan Awes Jahangiri in 1519, resulting into the Pashtunization of Swat.[43]
Theprincely state ofSwat was a kingdom established in the late 19th century by theMuslim saintAkhund Abdul Gaffur, more commonly known asSaidu Baba,[44][40] that was ruled by chiefs known asAkhunds. It was then recognized as aprincely state in alliance with theBritish Indian Empire between 1926 and 1947, after which the Akhwandacceded to the newly independent state ofPakistan. Swat continued to exist as an autonomous region until it was dissolved in 1969,[45] and incorporated intoKhyber Pakhtunkhwa Province (formerly calledNWFP).
The regionwas seized by thePakistani Taliban in late-2007,[9] and its highly-popular tourist industry was subsequently decimated until Pakistani controlwas re-established in mid-2009 after a month-long military campaign launched by thePakistan Army.[10] During their occupation, the group attacked Nobel laureateMalala Yousafzai in 2012, who at the time was a young school-girl who wrote a blog for BBC Urdu detailing life under Tehreek-i-Taliban rule, and their curb on girls' education.
Kushan-eraBuddhist stupas and statues in the Swat Valley were demolished by the Tehreek-i-Taliban,[46] and the Jehanabad Buddha's face was blown up usingdynamite,[47][48] but was repaired by a group ofItalian restorers in a nine-year-long process.[49] Looters subsequently destroyed many of Pakistan's Buddhist artifacts,[50] and deliberately targeted Gandhara Buddhist relics for destruction.[51]Gandhara artifacts remaining from the demolitions were thereafter plundered by thieves and smugglers.[52]
Approximately 38% of economy of Swat depends ontourism[53] and 31% depends onagriculture.[54]
Gwalerai, a village located nearMingora, is one of those few villages which produces 18 varieties of apples due to its agriculturally favourable temperate climate in summer. The apple produced here is consumed in Pakistan as well as exported to other countries. It is known as ‘the apple of Swat’.[55]Swat is also famous for peach production mostly grown in the valley bottom plains and accounts for about 80% of the peach production of the country - thus oft marketed in the national markets with a branded as "Swat Peaches". The supply starts in April and continues till September because of a diverse range of varieties grown. Salampur village, located nearSaidu Sharif, is a principle region in Pakistan for the manufacture of sheets and shawls.
| Year | Pop. | ±% p.a. |
|---|---|---|
| 1951 | 283,720 | — |
| 1961 | 344,859 | +1.97% |
| 1972 | 520,614 | +3.82% |
| 1981 | 715,938 | +3.60% |
| 1998 | 1,257,602 | +3.37% |
| 2017 | 2,308,624 | +3.25% |
| 2023 | 2,687,384 | +2.56% |
| Sources:[56] | ||
As of the2023 census, Swat district has 381,212 households and a population of 2,687,384. The district has a sex ratio of 104.83 males to 100 females and a literacy rate of 48.13%: 61.83% for males and 33.95% for females. 808,888 (30.11% of the surveyed population) are under 10 years of age. 794,368 (29.56%) live in urban areas.[2]
| Religion | 2017[57] | 2023[58] | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pop. | % | Pop. | % | |
Islam | 2,306,813 | 99.92% | 2,677,745 | 99.69% |
Christianity | 502 | 0.02% | 7,219 | 0.27% |
Hinduism | 200 | 0.01% | 117 | ~0% |
Sikhism | — | — | 540 | 0.02% |
| Others | 1,109 | 0.05% | 455 | 0.02% |
| Total Population | 2,308,624 | 100% | 2,686,076[a] | 100% |
Swat is mostly inhabited byPashtuns who make up 92.18% of the population.[59] The dominant tribe is theYusufzai tribe with minor settlements ofShinwari,Tarkani,Ghoryakhel andSulaimankhel tribes.[6] The language spoken in the valley isPashto (mainly theYousafzai dialect). Kohistani languages are spoken by 1.47% of the population and languages classified as 'Others', mainlyKalami andTorwali, are spoken by 6.10% of the population, and form the majority in theSwat Kohistan region of Upper Swat.[59]
According to theAlif Ailaan Pakistan Education Rankings for 2017, Swat with a score of 53.1, is ranked 86 out of 155 districts in terms of education. Furthermore, the Swat schools infrastructure scores 90.26 which ranks it on number 31 out of 155.[60]
Swat is subdivided into 9 administrative divisionsTehsils:[61]
Each tehsil comprises certain numbers ofunion councils. Swat has 65 union councils: 56 rural and 9 urban.
According to theKhyber Pakhtunkhwa Local Government Act, 2013, a newlocal governments system was introduced, in which Swat is included. This system has 67wards, in which the total amount ofvillage councils are around 170, while neighbourhood councils number around 44.[62][63]
The region elects three male members of theNational Assembly of Pakistan (MNAs), one female MNA, seven male members of theProvincial Assembly of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (MPAs)[64] and two female MPAs. In the 2002 National and Provincial elections, theMuttahida Majlis-e-Amal (MMA), an alliance of religious political parties, won all the seats.
| Member of Provincial Assembly | Party Affiliation | Constituency | Year |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sharafat Ali | Pakistan Tehreek-e-Insaf | PK-3 Swat-I | 2024 |
| Ali Shah | Pakistan Tehreek-e-Insaf | PK-4 Swat-II | 2024 |
| Akhtar khan | Pakistan Tehreek-e-Insaf | PK-5 Swat-III | 2024 |
| Fazal Hakeem Khan | Pakistan Tehreek-e-Insaf | PK-6 Swat-IV | 2024 |
| Amjad Ali | Pakistan Tehreek-e-Insaf | PK-7 Swat-V | 2024 |
| Hameed ur rahman | Pakistan Tehreek-e-Insaf | PK-8 Swat-VI | 2024 |
| Sultan e room | Pakistan Tehreek-e-Insaf | PK-9 Swat-VII | 2024 |
| Muhammad Naeem | Pakistan Tehreek-e-Insaf | PK-10 Swat-VIII | 2024 |
According to the 13th century Tibetan Buddhist Orgyan pa forms of magic and Tantra Buddhism and Hindu cults still survived in the Swāt area even though Islam had begun to uproot them (G. Tucci, 1971, p. 375) ... The Torwali of upper Swāt would have been converted to Islam during the course of the 17th century (Biddulph, p. 70).
Buddhism survived in Gilgit and Baltistan until 13-14th Century, perhaps slightly longer in the nearby Swat Valley.
Having brought under its domination part of Afghanistan and, most probably, Swat (Tucci 1978), the Maurya dynasty died out around 187 BC
They ruled this area for nearly 150 years when they were replaced first by Bactrians and latter by the Scythians
The Hindu Śāhis were therefore neither Bhattis, or Janjuas, nor Brahmans. They were simply Uḍis/Oḍis. It can now be seen that the term Hindu Śāhi is a misnomer and, based as it is merely upon religious discrimination, should be discarded and forgotten. The correct name is Uḍi or Oḍi Śāhi dynasty.
Rehman (2002: 41) makes a good case for calling the Hindu Śāhis by a more accurate name, "Uḍi Śāhis".
The Taliban destroyed the Buddhist statues and stupas where we played Kushan kings haram Jehanabad Buddha.
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