Sumptuary laws (fromLatinsūmptuāriae lēgēs) are laws that regulate consumption.[1]Black's Law Dictionary defines them as "Laws made for the purpose of restraining luxury or extravagance, particularly against inordinate expenditures for apparel, food, furniture, or shoes, etc."[2] Historically, they were intended to regulate and reinforcesocial hierarchies and morals through restrictions on clothing, food, and luxury expenditures, often depending on a person's social rank.
Societies have used sumptuary laws for a variety of purposes. They were used to try to regulate the balance of trade by limiting the market for expensive imported goods. They made it easy to identifysocial rank andprivilege, and as such could be used forsocial discrimination and to stabilize social hierarchies.[3][1] They could also be used to prevent, or at least reduce opportunities for politicalbribery andcorruption.
The laws often preventedcommoners from imitating the appearance ofaristocrats, and could be used tostigmatize disfavoured groups. InLate Medieval cities, sumptuary laws were instituted as a way for thenobility to limit theconspicuous consumption of the prosperousbourgeoisie. Bourgeois subjects appearing to be as wealthy as or wealthier than the ruling nobility could undermine the nobility's presentation of themselves as powerful, legitimate rulers. This could call into question their ability to control and defend theirfief, thus inspiring traitors and rebels. Such laws continued to be used for these purposes well into the 17th century.[3]
According to historianLorraine Daston, sumptuary laws "furnish the historian of rules with an extreme case of rule failure," as such laws frequently failed to reduce excess and may even have exacerbated excess.[1] Sumptuary laws were often revisable regulations rather than stable laws, as governing authorities sought to prohibit the latest rebellious or extravagant fashions.[1]
The seventh-century BC law-text ofLocrians byZaleucus, the first written 'law code' in ancient Greece, stipulated:
A free-born woman may not be accompanied by more than one female slave, unless she is drunk; she may not leave the city during the night, unless she is planning to commit adultery; she may not wear gold jewelry or a garment with a purple border, unless she is acourtesan; and a husband may not wear a gold-studded ring or a cloak of Milesian fashion unless he is bent upon prostitution or adultery.
— [4]
It also banned the drinking of undiluted wine except for medical purposes.[5]
TheSumptuariae Leges ofancient Rome were various laws passed to prevent inordinate expense (Latinsūmptus) in banquets and dress, such as the use of expensiveTyrian purple dye.[6][7]Roman senators and seniormagistrates were entitled to wear a Tyrian purple stripe on theirtoga andtunic.[8] In the early years of theRoman Empire, men were forbidden to wearsilk, which was deemed an effeminate and morally suspect material.[9] During the height of the Empire, expenditure on silk imported from China was so high that imperial advisers warned that Roman silver reserves were becoming exhausted.[10]
TheRoman censors had a duty to put a check upon morals and extravagance in personal and political expenditure.[11] The censors published details of offences in thenota censoria, which listed the names of everyone found guilty of a luxurious mode of living; a great many instances of this kind are recorded. Towards the end of theRoman Republic, laws were passed against political corruption of Roman magistrates, forbidding their attendance at banquets given by candidates or their agents.[12] During the period of transition from Republic to Empire, such antisumptuary laws, which may have still existed were virtually ignored by most. In the period of profligateluxury goods that characterized the height of the Roman Empire, the laws regarding the wearing of Tyrian purple were rigorously enforced. Infringement of this prohibition was treasonous, so punishable by death.[13]
Roman sumptuary laws applied to both the living and the dead. Rome's most ancient laws, the laws of theTwelve Tables, forbade extravagant expenses at funerals. This included the pouring of wine over the ashes at cremations (which seems nevertheless to have been an invariable practise), the use of smoothed timbers in funeral pyres, and "excessive" mourning.[14]
Sumptuary laws existed in China in one form or another from theQin dynasty onward (221 BC). TheConfucian virtue of restraint was embodied in the scholarly system central to China's bureaucracy and became encoded in its laws.[15]
Some laws concerned the size and decoration of graves and mausoleums. TheHongwu Emperor, founder of theMing dynasty, issued such regulations in the first year of his rule (1368) and tightened them in 1396, allowing only the highest nobility and officials of the top three ranks a memorialstele installed on top of astone tortoise; the steles of lower-levelmandarins were perched on rectangular pedestals, while commoners had to be satisfied with a simple gravestone. The location of graves and the number of attendant statues depended on rank.[16]
Afterc. 1550, sumptuary law in China was reformed. It had long been ineffective.[17] The consumption of luxuries had risen over the previous several centuries, and at the time of theIndustrial Revolution in Europe, Chinese consumption of luxuries such as tea, sugar, fine silk, tobacco, and eating utensils was on a par with the core regions of Europe.[17]
According toBritannica Online, "In feudal Japan, sumptuary laws were passed with a frequency and minuteness of scope that had no parallel in the history of the Western world."[18] During theEdo period (1603–1868), people of every class were subject to strict sumptuary laws, including regulation of the types of clothing that could be worn. In the second half of that period (the 18th and 19th centuries), thechōnin merchant class had grown far wealthier than the aristocraticsamurai, and these laws sought to maintain the superiority of the samurai class despite the merchants being able to afford far more luxurious clothing and other items. Theshogunate eventually gave in and allowed certain concessions, including allowing merchants of a certain prestige to wear a single sword at their belt; samurai were required to wear amatched pair when on official duty.[19]
Islamic sumptuary laws are based upon teachings found in theQuran andHadith. Males are exhorted not to wear silk clothes, nor have jewelry made of gold. Likewise, wearing clothes or robes that drag on the ground, seen as a sign of vanity and excessive pride, is also forbidden. These rules do not apply to women, who are allowed all this, but also need to cover their bodies and hair.
Prohibition of depictions of human and animal figures in general are similar to those of the Quranic prohibition ongraven images. Hadiths do allow the depiction of animals on clothing items.[20]
Sumptuary laws issued by secular authorities, aimed at keeping the main population dressed according to their "station", do not begin until the later 13th century.[21][22] These laws were addressed to the entire social body, but the brunt of regulations was directed at women and the middle classes. Their curbing of display was ordinarily couched in religious and moralizing vocabulary, yet was affected by social and economic considerations aimed at preventing ruinous expense among the wealthy classes and the drain of capital reserves to foreign suppliers.[23]
Special forms of dress forprostitutes andcourtesans were introduced during the 13th century – inMarseille, a striped cloak, in England a striped hood, and so on. Over time, these tended to be reduced to distinctive bands of fabric attached to the arm or shoulder, or tassels on the arm. Later restrictions specified various forms of finery that were forbidden, although there was also sometimes a recognition that finery represented working equipment (and capital) for a prostitute, and they could be exempted from laws applying to other non-noble women. By the 15th century, no compulsory clothing seems to have been imposed on prostitutes inFlorence,Venice, orParis.[24]
As early as the 12th century, certain articles of clothing were prohibited to crusaders and pilgrims traveling to the Holy Land under theSaladin Tithe of 1188, but scant evidence exists in the historical record of legal regulations on dress in Britain until the reign ofEdward III, during which prohibitions were enacted on the import of textiles from lands outside Ireland, England, Scotland, and Wales and the exportation of domestically producedwool was likewise banned. The statute contained further restrictions on clothing based on social class; the earliest example of class-based restriction was that of fur, prohibited for anyone below the rank of lady or knight. The restriction on fur was expanded in subsequent decades in London to restrict prostitutes from wearing any furs, includingbudge (low-quality wool) or lambswool.[25]
In England, which in this respect was typical of Europe, from the reign of Edward III in the Middle Ages until well into the 17th century,[3] sumptuary laws dictated what colour and type of clothing, furs, fabrics, and trims were allowed to persons of various ranks or incomes. In the case of clothing, this was intended, amongst other reasons, to reduce spending on foreign textiles and to ensure that people did not dress "above their station":
The excess of apparel and the superfluity of unnecessary foreign wares thereto belonging now of late years is grown by sufferance to such an extremity that the manifest decay of the whole realm generally is like to follow (by bringing into the realm such superfluities of silks,cloths of gold, silver, and other most vain devices of so great cost for the quantity thereof as of necessity the moneys and treasure of the realm is and must be yearly conveyed out of the same to answer the said excess) but also particularly the wasting and undoing of a great number of young gentlemen, otherwise serviceable, and others seeking by show of apparel to be esteemed as gentlemen, who, allured by the vain show of those things, do not only consume themselves, their goods, and lands which their parents left unto them, but also run into such debts and shifts as they cannot live out of danger of laws without attempting unlawful acts, whereby they are not any ways serviceable to their country as otherwise they might be
— Statute issued at Greenwich, 15 June 1574, by order ofElizabeth I[26]
The first major sumptuary act was passed in April 1463 during the reign ofEdward IV. Earlier statutes[27] had sought to control the expense of householdliveries, but the April 1463 statute marked the first attempt at a comprehensive sumptuary legislation. Scholars have interpreted the act as part of a set ofprotectionist economic measures that included regulations of thetextile industry and trade in cloths. This statute is the first known English legislation restricting the use of "royal purple" – a term which, during the Middle Ages, referred not only to theTyrian purple of Antiquity, but also to crimson, dark reds and royal blue. The language of the act uses technical terminology to restrict certain features of garments that are decorative in function, intended to enhance the silhouette.[28]
A second "Act of Apparel" followed in January 1483 restrictingcloth-of-gold,sable,ermine,velvet on velvet and satinbrocade to knights and lords.Damask andsatin were allowed foryeoman of the Crown andesquires and other members of the gentry, only if they had a yearly income of £40.Bustian,fustian, scarlet-dyed cloths and any leathers or animal hides other than lambskins were also restricted.[29]
An act of Parliament, theCaps Act 1571 (13 Eliz. 1. c. 19) to stimulate domestic wool consumption and general trade decreed that on Sundays and holidays, all males over six years of age, except for the nobility and persons of degree, were to wear woolen caps on pain of a fine of three farthings (3⁄4 penny) per day.[30][31] This law instituted theflat cap as part of English wear.[32] The 1571 act was repealed in 1597 by theContinuance, etc. of Laws Act 1597 (39 Eliz. 1. c. 18).[33]
An extremely long list of items, specifying colour, materials, and sometimes place of manufacture (imported goods being much more tightly restricted) followed for each sex, with equally specific exceptions by rank of nobility or position held. For the most part, these laws seem to have had little effect,[18] though theParliament of England made repeated amendments to the laws,[34] and several monarchs, most notably theTudors, continually called for stricter enforcement, especially at Court "to the intent there may be a difference of estates known by their apparel after the commendable custom in times past."[35]
The laws were justified by the reasoning that the price of certain goods increased to levels where "the treasure of the land is destroyed, to the great damage of the lords and the commonality" when "various people or various conditions wear various apparel not appropriate to their estate".[36]
Adam Smith was against the necessity or convenience of sumptuary laws, he wrote: "of It is the highest impertinence and presumption... in kings and ministers, to pretend to watch over the economy of private people, and to restrain their expense...[18] They are themselves always, and without any exception, the greatest spendthrifts in the society.[18] Let them look well after their own expense, and they may safely trust private people with theirs. If their own extravagance does not ruin the state, that of their subjects never will."[37]
During the medieval andRenaissance eras in Italy, various towns passed sumptuary laws (leggi suntuarie) often in response to particular events or movements. For example,Bernardino of Siena, in his public sermons in Siena, thundered against the vanity of luxurious dress; this, however, was counterbalanced by the economic benefit Siena derived as a manufacturer of items, including clothes, of luxury.[38] One source describes these types of laws as constantly published, and generally ignored. These laws, mostly aimed at female apparel, sometimes became a source of revenue for the state: the Florentine laws of 1415 restricted the luxury that could be worn by women, but exempted those willing to pay 50 florins a year.[39] The laws were often quite specific. Low necklines were prohibited inGenoa,Milan, and Rome in the early 16th century,[40] and laws restrictingzibellini (sable furs carried as fashion accessories) with heads and feet of precious metals and jewels wereissued inBologna in 1545 and Milan in 1565.[41]
Montaigne's brief essay "On sumptuary laws" criticized 16th-century French laws, beginning:
The way by which our laws attempt to regulate idle and vain expenses in meat and clothes, seems to be quite contrary to the end designed… For to enact that none but princes shall eatturbot, shall wearvelvet or goldlace, and interdict these things to the people, what is it but to bring them into a greater esteem, and to set every one more agog to eat and wear them?
He also cites Plato andZaleucus.
One of the earliest known Scottish sumptuary regulations was passed in 1429 during the reign ofJames I of Scotland. The text, written inOld Scots, preserves some medieval legal terminology related to textiles, limiting silk, some types of furs (pine martens,beech martens) and other items to men of certain social ranks like knight, lord, burgess, and their families. As with the laws ofHenry V of England in 1420, silver plating was reserved for the spurs of knights and the apparel of barons or higher ranking persons.Metalsmiths caught violating these laws would be punished by death and all their lands and goods forfeit. Embroidery and pearls were also restricted.Yeomen and commoners could not wear colored clothes longer than the knee. Thepoke sleeve that narrowed at the wrist were allowed for sentinel yeomen who lived in their lord's house and rode with the gentlemen. Commoners' wives could not wearlong-tail hoods orside-necked hoods, poked sleeves, or caps made from rich textiles likeLawn cloth or Rheims (finelinen).[42]
TheDress Act 1746, which formed part of theAct of Proscription issued underGeorge II following theJacobite rising of 1745, made the wearing ofHighland dress, includingtartan andkilts, illegal in Scotland (an exemption was made for soldiers and veterans). The act, which was poorly enforced, was eventually repealed in 1782, and during theRegency andVictorian eras Highland dress gained widespread popularity in part thanks to thevisit of George IV to Scotland in 1822, which was organised by Scottish writerWalter Scott.[43]
Sumptuary laws were repealed in the early 17th century, but newprotectionist laws were passed prohibiting the purchase of foreign silks and laces.[44] Prohibitions were tied to rank and income and continued to be widely ignored.
During the late 16th century,John Perrot, theLord Deputy of Ireland underElizabeth I, banned the wearing of traditional woollen mantles, "open smocks" with "great sleeves", and native headdresses, requiring the people to dress in "civil garments" in the English style.[45]
In 1629 and 1633,Louis XIII of France issued edicts regulating "Superfluity of Dress" that prohibited anyone but princes and the nobility from wearinggold embroidery or caps, shirts, collars, and cuffs embroidered with metallic threads or lace,[46] and puffs, slashes, and bunches of ribbon were severely restricted. As with other such laws, these were widely disregarded and enforced in a lax manner. A series of popular engravings byAbraham Bosse depicts the supposed effects of this law.[47]
In theMassachusetts Bay Colony, a 1634 prohibition[48] deemed that only people with a personal fortune of at least two hundred pounds could wearlace, silver or gold thread orbuttons,cutwork,embroidery, hatbands, belts, ruffles, capes, and other articles. After a few decades, the law was being widely defied.[49][50][51] By 1651, flouting of the rules caused leadership to issue a new strongly worded regulation to the populace again.[48] In theProvince of South Carolina, the1712 slave code forbadeslaves in the colony to wear clothes finer than "Negro cloth".[52]
While rarely do restrictions exist on the type or quality of clothing, beyond maintenance of public decency, wearing certain types of clothing is restricted to specific occupations, specifically theuniforms of organisations like the police and military.
In some jurisdictions, clothing or other visible signs of religious or political opinion (e.g. Nazi imagery in Germany) are forbidden in certain public places.[53][54][55][56]
Many American states in the 20th century prohibited the wearing ofKu Klux Klan hoods, masks, masquerade, ordrag; gay men in New York City seized on the exemption formasquerade balls in the 1920s to 1930s to go in drag.[57]
InBhutan, the wearing of traditional dress (which also has an ethnic connotation) in certain places, such as when visiting government offices, was made compulsory in 1989 under thedriglam namzha laws.[58][59] Part of the traditional dress includes thekabney, a long scarf whose coloring is regulated. Only theKing of Bhutan andChief Abbot may don the saffron scarf, with various other colors reserved for government and religious officers, and white available for common people.
The termsumptuary law has been used as apejorative term to describe any governmental control of consumption based on moral, religious, health, or public safety, or other concerns. American JudgeThomas M. Cooley generally described their modern form as laws that "substitute the legislative judgment for that of the proprietor, regarding the manner in which he should use and employ his property."[60] Policies to which the term has been critically applied includealcohol prohibition,[61]drug prohibition,[62]smoking bans,[63][64][65][66] and restrictions ondog fighting.[67]
As early as 1860,Anthony Trollope, writing about his experiences inMaine underthe state's prohibition law, stated, "This law (prohibition), like all sumptuary laws, must fail."[68] In 1918,William Howard Taft decriedprohibition in the United States as a bad sumptuary law, stating that one of his reasons for opposing prohibition was his belief that "sumptuary laws are matters for parochial adjustment."[69] Taft later repeated this concern.[70] TheIndiana Supreme Court also discussed alcohol prohibition as a sumptuary law in its 1855 decisionHerman v. State.[71] During state conventions on the ratification of theTwenty-first Amendment to the United States Constitution in 1933, numerous delegates throughout the United States decried prohibition as having been an improper sumptuary law that never should have been included in theConstitution of the United States.[61]
In 1971, a United States federal study stated that federal laws on alcohol include "sumptuary laws which are directed at the purchaser", including, "Sales are not permitted to minors or intoxicated persons. Credit is often prohibited on liquor sales, as well. Criminal penalties may be imposed for driving under the influence of alcohol, as well as for drunken behavior."[72]
When the U.S. state ofWashington considered cannabisdecriminalization in two initiatives, 229 and 248, the initiatives' language stated, "Cannabis prohibition is a sumptuary law of a nature repugnant to our Constitution's framers."
{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)A 1998 law forbids Uzbeks from wearing religious clothing in public.
Conspicuous signs of religious affiliation, including Islamic headscarves, are banned from French state schools, and full-face veils (burkas and niqabs) cannot be worn in public places.
{{cite report}}: CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link)(two passages){{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
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