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Sulawesi

Coordinates:02°S121°E / 2°S 121°E /-2; 121
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Region and island in Indonesia
"Celebes" redirects here. For other uses, seeCelebes (disambiguation).

Sulawesi
Topographic map of Sulawesi
Provincial division of Sulawesi
Other namesCelebes
Geography
LocationIndonesia
Coordinates02°S121°E / 2°S 121°E /-2; 121
ArchipelagoIndonesian Archipelago
Greater Sunda Islands
Area174,416.16 km2 (67,342.46 sq mi)
Area rank11th
Highest elevation3,478 m (11411 ft)
Highest pointLatimojong
Administration
Provinces
Largest settlementMakassar (pop. 1,432,200)
Demographics
Population20,568,411 (mid 2023 estimate)
Pop. density110.5/km2 (286.2/sq mi)
Ethnic groupsMakassarese,Buginese,Mandar,Minahasa,Gorontalo,Kaili,Toraja,Mamasa,Butonese,Muna,Tolaki,Bajau,Mongondow,Sangihe,Napu

Sulawesi (/ˌsləˈwsi/SOO-lə-WAY-see,Indonesian:[ˌsulaˈwesi]),[1] also known asCelebes (/ˈsɛlɪbz,səˈlbz/SEL-ib-eez, sə-LEE-beez),[2] is an island inIndonesia. One of the fourGreater Sunda Islands, and theworld's 11th-largest island, it is situated east ofBorneo, west of theMaluku Islands, and south ofMindanao and theSulu Archipelago. Within Indonesia, onlySumatra, Borneo, andPapua are larger in territory, and onlyJava and Sumatra are more populous.

The landmass of Sulawesi includes four peninsulas: the northernMinahasa Peninsula, theEast Peninsula, theSouth Peninsula, and theSoutheast Peninsula. Three gulfs separate these peninsulas: theGulf of Tomini between the northern Minahasa and East peninsulas, theTolo Gulf between the East and Southeast peninsulas, and theGulf of Boni between the South and Southeast peninsulas. TheStrait of Makassar runs along the western side of the island and separates the island fromBorneo.

Etymology

[edit]

The nameSulawesi possibly comes from the wordssula ("island") andbesi ("iron") and may refer to the historical export ofiron from the richLake Matanoiron deposits.[3] The name came into common use in English followingIndonesian independence.

The nameCelebes was originally given to the island byPortuguese explorers. While its direct translation is unclear, it might be considered a Portuguese rendering of the native name "Sulawesi".[4]

Geography

[edit]

Sulawesi is theworld's eleventh-largest island,[5] covering an area of 186,216.16 km2 (71,898 sq mi) (including minor islands administered as part of Sulawesi). The central part of the island is ruggedly mountainous, such that the island's peninsulas have traditionally been remote from each other, with better connections by sea than by road. The three bays that divide Sulawesi's peninsulas are, from north to south, theTomini, theTolo and theBoni.[n 1] These separate theMinahasa or Northern Peninsula, theEast Peninsula, theSoutheast Peninsula and theSouth Peninsula.

TheStrait of Makassar runs along the western side of the island.[9] The island is surrounded byBorneo to the west, by thePhilippines to the north, byMaluku to the east, and byFlores andTimor to the south.

Minor islands

[edit]

TheSelayar Islands make up a chain stretching southwards from Southwest Sulawesi into theFlores Sea are administratively part of Sulawesi. TheSangihe Islands andTalaud Islands stretch northward from the northeastern tip of Sulawesi, whileButon andMuna Islands and their neighbors lie off its southeast peninsula, theTogian Islands are in the Gulf of Tomini, andPeleng Island and theBanggai Islands form a cluster between Sulawesi andMaluku. All the above-mentioned islands and many smaller ones off the coasts of Sulawesi are administratively part of Sulawesi's six provinces.[10][11]

Geology

[edit]
Mount Tongkoko is a volcano in North Sulawesi

The island slopes up from the shores of the deep seas surrounding the island to a high, mostly non-volcanic, mountainous interior. Active volcanoes are found in the northernMinahasa Peninsula, stretching north to theSangihe Islands. The northern peninsula contains several active volcanoes such asMount Lokon,Mount Awu,Soputan andKarangetang.

According toplate reconstructions, the island is believed to have been formed by the collision ofterranes from theAsian Plate (forming the west and southwest) and from theAustralian Plate (forming the southeast andBanggai), withisland arcs previously in the Pacific (forming the north and east peninsulas).[12] Because of its several tectonic origins, variousfaults scar the land and as a result the island is prone toearthquakes, including the deadly2018 and2021 quakes.

Off the eastern coast of Sulawesi, the North Banda Sea was created through subduction rollback during the early Miocene. Evidence for this tectonic event lies with the extensive interconnected fault network found in the area, a volcanic seamount with its surrounding ridges, and an accretionary wedge. Off the coast of east Selawesti and Banggai is an accumulation of carbonate rocks from the late Miocene. These carbonates are likely pinnacle reefs and the carbonate platform has a total thickness of around 180–770 meters.[13]

Sulawesi, in contrast to most of the other islands in thebiogeographical region ofWallacea, is not truly oceanic, but a composite island at the centre of the Asia-Australiacollision zone.[14] Parts of the island were formerly attached to either theAsian orAustralian continental margin and became separated from these areas byvicariant processes.[14] In the west, the opening of theMakassar Strait separated West Sulawesi fromSundaland in theEocene c. 45 Mya.[14] In the east, the traditional view of collisions of multiplemicro-continental fragments sliced from New Guinea with an active volcanic margin in West Sulawesi at different times since theEarly Miocene c. 20 Mya has recently been replaced by the hypothesis that extensional fragmentation has followed a single Miocene collision of West Sulawesi with the Sula Spur, the western end of an ancient folded belt ofVariscan origin in the Late Paleozoic.[14]

Bone Basin

[edit]

The Bone Basin lies between the south-eastern and southern arms of Sulawesi. According to recent studies, the basin has been opened up due to extensional forces.[15] The basin is bounded by normal faults on each side of the basin with each side of the basin surrounded by uplifted basement rock with young sediments found in the middle.[citation needed] The past geological history has allowed for a large accumulation of carbonates which could lead to a higher potential of oil and gas occurrences. However, the faults present in the basin makes it a very complicated system.[citation needed]

Prehistory

[edit]
See also:Prehistoric Indonesia

The oldest evidence for humans on Sulawesi are stone tools produced byarchaic humans, dating to at least 1.04 million years ago and possibly as old as 1.48 million years ago, found at the Calio site near the village of Ujung in Lilirilau district ofSoppeng Regency, southwestern Sulawesi.[16] Other archaic human produced stone tools, dating to over 200,000 to 100,000 years ago, have been found at the Talepu site near Cabenge village, which is also located in the Lilirilau district.[17]

Before October 2014, the settlement of South Sulawesi by modern humans had been dated toc. 30,000 BC on the basis of radiocarbon dates obtained from rock shelters inMaros.[18] No earlier evidence of human occupation had at that point been found, but the island almost certainly formed part of the land bridge used for the settlement of Australia andNew Guinea by at least 40,000 BC.[19] There is no evidence ofHomo erectus having reached Sulawesi; crude stone tools first discovered in 1947 on the right bank of theWalanae River atBarru (now part ofBone Regency), which were thought to date to the Pleistocene on the basis of their association with vertebrate fossils,[20] are now thought to date to perhaps 50,000 BC.[21]

A typical dwelling, taken between 1900 and 1940.

Following Peter Bellwood's model of a southward migration ofAustronesian-speaking farmers (AN),[22] radiocarbon dates from caves in Maros suggest a date in the mid-second millennium BC for the arrival of a group from east Borneo speaking a Proto-South Sulawesi language (PSS). Initial settlement was probably around the mouth of the Sa'dan river, on the northwest coast of the peninsula, although the south coast has also been suggested.[23]

Subsequent migrations across the mountainous landscape resulted in the geographical isolation of PSS speakers and the evolution of their languages into the eight families of the South Sulawesi language group.[24] If each group can be said to have a homeland, that of theBugis – today the most numerous group – was around lakesTémpé andSidénréng in the Walennaé depression. Here for some 2,000 years lived the linguistic group that would become the modern Bugis; the archaic name of this group (which is preserved in other local languages) was Ugiq. Despite the fact that today they are closely linked with theMakassarese, the closest linguistic neighbors of the Bugis are theTorajans.

Megalith inCentral Sulawesi.

Pre-1200 Bugis society was most likely organized intochiefdoms. Someanthropologists have speculated these chiefdoms would have warred and, in times of peace, interbred. Further, they have speculated that personal security would have been negligible and head-hunting an established cultural practice. The political economy would have been a mixture of hunting and gathering and swidden or shifting agriculture. Speculative planting ofwet rice may have taken place along the margins of the lakes and rivers.

In Central Sulawesi, there are more than 400 granitemegaliths (Behoa ValleyPokekea Megalithic Site,Bada and Napu valleys within theLore Lindu National Park), which various archaeological studies have dated to be from 3000 BC to AD 1300. They vary in size from a few centimeters to approximately 4.5 meters (15 ft). The original purpose of the megaliths is unknown. Approximately 30 of the megaliths represent human forms. Other megaliths are in form of large pots (Kalamba) and stone plates (Tutu'na).[25][26]

A burial of a woman associated with the hunter-gathererToalean culture dating to 7,000 years ago has yielded DNA that has provided rare insight into early migrations in and through the region.[27][28]

Cave art

[edit]

In October 2014, it was announced thatcave paintings in Maros had been dated as being approximately 40,000 years old. One of a hand was 39,900 years old,[29] which brings it among the oldest knownhand stencils in the world (the record is detained so far by a 64,000 years-old stencil hand made by aNeanderthal inMaltravieso cave,Cáceres, Spain).[29]

Stencils of right hands in Pettakere Cave in Maros are among the oldest known examples of human artwork

Dr. Maxime Aubert, ofGriffith University inQueensland,Australia, said that was the minimum age for the outline in Pettakere Cave inMaros, and added: "Next to it is a pig that has a minimum age of 35,400 years old, and this is one of the oldest figurative depictions in the world, if not the oldest one."[30]

On 11 December 2019, a team of researchers led by Dr. Maxime Aubert announced the discovery of the oldest hunting scenes in prehistoric art in the world that is more than 44,000 years old from thelimestone cave of Leang Bulu' Sipong 4. Archaeologists determined the age of the depiction of hunting a pig and buffalo thanks to the calcite 'popcorn', different isotope levels of radioactiveuranium andthorium.[31][32][33]

In March 2020, two small stone 'plaquettes' were found byGriffith University archaeologists in the Leang Bulu Bettue cave, dated to a time between 26,000 and 14,000 years ago.[34] While one of the stones contained ananoa (water buffalo) and what may be a flower, star, or eye, another depicted astronomic rays of light.[35][36][37]

Researchers discovered cave art in Leang Tedongnge, Sulawesi, Indonesia, in 2021, estimated to be at least 45,500 years old, making it the world's oldest known representational artwork.

In January 2021, archaeologists announced the discovery of cave art that is at least 45,500 years old in a Leang Tedongnge cave. According to thejournalScience Advances, the cave painting of a warty pig is the earliest evidence of human settlement of the region. An adult male pig, measuring 136 cm x 54 cm and what is likely a Sulawesi orCelebes warty pig (Sus celebensis), was depicted with horn-like facial warts and two hand prints above its hindquarters.[38] According to co-author Adam Brumm, there are two other pigs that are partly preserved and it appears the warty pig was observing a fight between the two other pigs.[39][40][41][42]

History

[edit]
Local chief (1872).

Hindu-Buddhist era

[edit]
See also:Hinduism in Southeast Asia,Buddhism in Southeast Asia,Hinduism in Indonesia,Buddhism in Indonesia,Greater India, andMandala (political model)

A bronzeAmaravathi statue was discovered atSikendeng, South Sulawesi nearKarama river in 1921 which was dated to 2nd–7th century AD by Bosch (1933).[43] In 1975, small locally made Buddhist statues from 10th-11th century were also discovered in Bontoharu, on the island ofSelayar, South Sulawesi.[44]

Starting in the 13th century, access to prestige trade goods and to sources of iron started to alter long-standing cultural patterns and to permit ambitious individuals to build larger political units. It is not known why these two ingredients appeared together; one was perhaps the product of the other.

In 1367, several identified polities located on the island were mentioned in the Javanese manuscriptNagarakretagama dated from theMajapahit period. Canto 14 mentioned polities including Gowa, Makassar,Luwu and Banggai. It seems that by the 14th century, polities in the island were connected in an archipelagic maritime trading network, centered in the Majapahit port in East Java. By 1400, a number of nascent agricultural principalities had arisen in the western Cenrana valley, as well as on the south coast and on the west coast near modern Parepare.[45]

Christian colonial era

[edit]

The first Europeans to visit the island (which they believed to be an archipelago due to its contorted shape) were thePortuguese sailors Simão de Abreu in 1523, andGomes de Sequeira (among others) in 1525, sent from the Moluccas in search of gold, which the islands had the reputation of producing.[46][47] A Portuguese base was installed in Makassar in the first decades of the 16th century, lasting until 1665, when it was taken by the Dutch. The Dutch had arrived in Sulawesi in 1605 and were quickly followed by the English, who established afactory in Makassar.[48] From 1660, the Dutch were at war withGowa, the major Makassar west coast power. In 1669, Admiral Speelman forced the ruler, Sultan Hasanuddin, to sign theTreaty of Bongaya, which handed control of trade to theDutch East India Company. The Dutch were aided in their conquest by the Bugis warlord Arung Palakka, ruler of the Bugis kingdom ofBone. The Dutch built a fort at Ujung Pandang, while Arung Palakka became the regional overlord and Bone the dominant kingdom. Political and cultural development seems to have slowed as a result of the status quo.

In 1905, the entire island became part of the Dutch state colony of theNetherlands East Indies untilJapanese occupation in theSecond World War. During theIndonesian National Revolution, the Dutch Captain'Turk' Westerling led campaigns in which hundreds, maybe thousands died during theSouth Sulawesi Campaign.[49] Following the transfer of sovereignty in December 1949, Sulawesi became part of thefederalUnited States of Indonesia, which in 1950 became absorbed into theunitaryRepublic of Indonesia.[50]

Picture gallery

[edit]
  • Tandako dancers and a musician in Pasere Maloku, Sulawesi.
    Tandako dancers and a musician in Pasere Maloku, Sulawesi.
  • Tandako pajogé dancers from Pasere Maloku, Celebes (now Sulawesi)
    Tandako pajogé dancers from Pasere Maloku, Celebes (now Sulawesi)
  • Padjogé dancers in Maros, Sulawesi, in the 1870s.
    Padjogé dancers inMaros, Sulawesi, in the 1870s.
  • Tandako pajogé dancers and musicians in Gorontalo, North Celebes, circa 1870s.
    Tandako pajogé dancers and musicians in Gorontalo, North Celebes, circa 1870s.

Central Sulawesi

[edit]
Toraja burial site.Tau-tau, the statue representing the buried people, can be seen in niches on the cliff.

The Portuguese were rumoured to have a fort in Parigi in 1555.[51] The Kaili were an important group based in thePalu valley and related to the Toraja. Scholars relate[citation needed] that their control swayed under Ternate and Makassar, but this might have been a decision by the Dutch to give their vassals a chance to govern a difficult group. Padbruge commented that in the 1700s the Kaili population was significantly high and were a highly militant society. In the 1850s, a civil war erupted between the Kaili groups, including the Banawa, in which the Dutch colonial government decided to intervene.[52]

In the late 19th century, the Sarasins journeyed through the Palu valley as part of a major initiative to bring the Kaili under Dutch rule. Some very surprising and interesting photographs were taken of shamans called Tadulako. Further Christian religious missions entered the area to make one of the most detailed ethnographic studies in the early 20th century.[53] A Swede by the name ofWalter Kaudern later studied much of the literature and produced a synthesis. Erskine Downs in the 1950s produced a summary of Kruyts and Andrianis work: "The religion of the Bare'e-Speaking Toradja of Central Celebes," which is invaluable for English-speaking researchers. One of the most recent publications is "When the bones are left," a study of the material culture of central Sulawesi,[54] offering extensive analysis. Also worthy of study are the brilliant works of Monnig Atkinson on the Wana shamans who live in the Mori area.

Population

[edit]
Population of Sulawesi by province (2020 Census)[55]
  1. South Sulawesi (45.6%)
  2. Central Sulawesi (15.0%)
  3. Southeast Sulawesi (13.2%)
  4. North Sulawesi (13.2%)
  5. West Sulawesi (7.13%)
  6. Gorontalo (5.89%)

At the 2000 census, the population of the provinces of Sulawesi was 14,946,488, about 7.25% of Indonesia's total population.[56] By the 2010 Census, the total had reached 17,371,782, and the 2020 Census recorded a total of 19,896,951.[57] The official estimate for mid-2023 was 20,568,411.[58] The largest city on Sulawesi isMakassar.

Religion

[edit]
See also:Ethnic religion in Sulawesi
ReligionsTotal
Islam16,888,736
Protestant3,126,786
Roman Catholic331,646
Hinduism267,059
Buddhism30,412
Aliran Kepercayaan12,584
Confucianism523
Overall20,657,746

[59]

Religion in Sulawesi (2023)[60]
  1. Islam (81.8%)
  2. Protestantism (15.1%)
  3. Catholic (1.61%)
  4. Hinduism (1.29%)
  5. Buddhism (0.15%)
  6. Folk religion (0.06%)
  7. Confucianism (0.00%)

Islam is the majority religion in Sulawesi. The conversion of the lowlands of the south western peninsula (South Sulawesi) to Islam occurred in the early 17th century. The kingdom of Luwu in the Gulf of Bone was the first to embrace Islam in February 1605; the Makassar kingdom of Gowa-Talloq, centred on the modern-day city ofMakassar, followed suit in September.[61] However, theGorontalo and theMongondow peoples of the northern peninsula largely converted to Islam only in the 19th century. Most Muslims areSunnis.

Christians form a substantial minority on the island. According to thedemographer Toby Alice Volkman, 17% of Sulawesi's population isProtestant and less than 2% isCatholic. Christians are concentrated on the tip of the northern peninsula around the city ofManado, which is inhabited by theMinahasa, a predominantly Protestant people, and the northernmostSangir andTalaud Islands. TheToraja people ofTana Toraja in South Sulawesi have largely converted to Christianity since Indonesia's independence. There are also substantial numbers of Christians aroundLake Poso in Central Sulawesi, among thePamona speaking peoples of Central Sulawesi, and near Mamasa.

Though most people identify themselves as Muslims or Christians, they oftensubscribe to local beliefs and deities as well.

Smaller communities ofBuddhists andHindus are also found on Sulawesi, usually among theChinese,Balinese, andIndian communities.

Languages

[edit]
Main article:Languages of Sulawesi

Economy

[edit]
Main article:Economy of Sulawesi

The economy of Sulawesi is heavily centered around agriculture, fishing, mining, and forestry.[62]

Administration

[edit]

The island was administered as one province between 1945 and 1960. In 1960 it was divided into two provinces – North and Central Sulawesi, and South and Southeast Sulawesi. In 1964 both of these were again divided, the former into North Sulawesi and Central Sulawesi, and the latter into South Sulawesi and Southeast Sulawesi. Today, it is subdivided into sixprovinces:Gorontalo,West Sulawesi,South Sulawesi,Central Sulawesi,Southeast Sulawesi, andNorth Sulawesi. Among these, the newest provinces are Gorontalo, established in 2000 from part of North Sulawesi, and West Sulawesi, established in 2004 from part of South Sulawesi.

The largest cities on the island are the provincial capitals ofMakassar,Manado,Palu,Kendari, andGorontalo (the provincial capital of West Sulawesi – the town of Mamuju – is not a city); there are six other cities – Bitung, Palopo, Bau-Bau, Parepare, Kotamobagu and Tomohun.

ProvinceArea in
km2
Population
(2010 Census)
Population
(2020 Census)
Population
(mid 2023
estimate)
Density
per km2
(mid 2023)
South Sulawesi45,330.568,034,7769,073,5099,362,290206.5
West Sulawesi16,594.751,158,6511,419,2291,481,07789.2
Southeast Sulawesi36,159.712,232,5862,624,8752,743,57475.9
Central Sulawesi61,605.722,635,0092,985,7343,086,75050.1
Gorontalo12,025.151,040,1641,171,6811,213,180100.9
North Sulawesi14,500.272,270,5962,621,9232,681,540184.9
Total Sulawesi186,216.1617,371,78219,896,95120,568,411110.5


CityProvince containing the cityPopulation (2010 Census)Population
(2020 Census)
Population
(mid 2023
estimate)
MakassarSouth Sulawesi1,339,3741,423,8771,454,960
ManadoNorth Sulawesi410,481451,916458,582
PaluCentral Sulawesi336,532373,218387,493
KendariSoutheast Sulawesi289,966345,107351,095
BitungNorth Sulawesi187,652225,134232,440
GorontaloGorontalo180,127198,539205,390
PalopoSouth Sulawesi147,932184,681192,760
BaubauSoutheast Sulawesi136,991159,248161,280
ParepareSouth Sulawesi129,262151,454158,430
KotamobaguNorth Sulawesi107,459123,722123,918
TomohonNorth Sulawesi91,553100,587103,072

Flora and fauna

[edit]
See also:Sulawesi lowland rain forests andSulawesi montane rain forests
The colorful bark ofEucalyptus deglupta

Sulawesi is part ofWallacea, meaning that it has a mix of bothIndomalayan andAustralasian species that reached the island bycrossing deep-water oceanic barriers.[63][64] The flora includes one native eucalypt,E. deglupta. There are 8national parks on the island, of which 4 are mostlymarine. The parks with the largest terrestrial area areBogani Nani Wartabone with 2,871 km2 andLore Lindu National Park with 2,290 km2.Bunaken National Park, which protects a rich coral ecosystem, has been proposed as a UNESCOWorld Heritage Site. The coast of northern tip of Sulawesi is identified as a site of highest marine biodiversity importance in theCoral Triangle.[65]

Mammals

[edit]

Early in the Pleistocene, Sulawesi had adwarf elephant and adwarf form ofStegodon, (an elephant relative,S. sompoensis);[66] later both were replaced by larger forms.[67][68] A giantsuid,Celebochoerus, was also formerly present.[69] It is thought that many of the migrants to Sulawesi arrived via thePhilippines, while Sulawesi in turn served as a way station for migrants toFlores.[70] A Pleistocene faunal turnover is recognized, with the competitive displacement of several indigenous tarsiers by more recently arriving ones and ofCelebochoerus by other medium-sized herbivores like thebabirusa,anoa andCelebes warty pig.[71]

Thenorth Sulawesi babirusa is endemic to Sulawesi.

There are 127 known extant native mammalian species in Sulawesi. A large percentage, 62% (79 species) areendemic, meaning that they are found nowhere else in the world. The largest of these are the two species ofanoa or dwarf buffalo. Other artiodactyl species inhabiting Sulawesi are thewarty pig and thebabirusas, which are aberrant pigs. The only nativecarnivoran is theSulawesi palm civet[69] (Asian palm andMalayan civets have been introduced[72]). Primates present include a number ofnocturnaltarsiers (T. fuscus,Dian's,Gursky's,Jatna's,Wallace's, theLariang andpygmy tarsiers) as well asdiurnalmacaques (Heck's, thebooted,crested black,Gorontalo,moor, andTonkean macaques). While most of Sulawesi's mammals areplacental and have Asian relatives, several species ofcuscus, arborealmarsupials of Australasian origin, are also present (Ailurops ursinus andStrigocuscus celebensis, which are diurnal and nocturnal, respectively).

Sulawesi is home to a large number of endemicrodent genera.Murid rodent genera endemic to Sulawesi and immediately adjacent islands (such as theTogian Islands,Buton Island, andMuna Island) areBunomys,Echiothrix,Margaretamys,Taeromys andTateomys as well as the single-species generaEropeplus,Hyorhinomys,Melasmothrix,Paucidentomys,Paruromys,Sommeromys and thesemiaquaticWaiomys. All ninesciurids are from three endemic genera,Hyosciurus,Prosciurillus andRubrisciurus.

While over 20 bat species are present on Sulawesi, only a portion of these are endemic:Rhinolophustatar,Scotophilus celebensis and themegabatsAcerodon celebensis,Boneia bidens,Dobsonia exoleta,Harpyionycteris celebensis,Neopteryx frosti,Rousettus celebensis andStyloctenium wallacei.

Several endemic shrews, theSulawesi shrew,Sulawesi tiny shrew and theSulawesi white-handed shrew, are found on the island.

Sulawesi has nogliding mammals, being situated between Borneo with itscolugos andflying squirrels, and Halmahera with itssugar gliders.

Birds

[edit]
The endemicornate lorikeet

By contrast, Sulawesian bird species tend to be found on other nearby islands as well, such asBorneo; 31% of Sulawesi's birds are found nowhere else. One endemic (also found on small neighboring islands) is the largely ground-dwelling, chicken-sizedmaleo, amegapode which sometimes uses hot sand close to the island's volcanic vents to incubate its eggs. An international partnership of conservationists, donors, and local people have formed the Alliance for Tompotika Conservation,[73] in an effort to raise awareness and protect the nesting grounds of these birds on the central-eastern arm of the island. Other endemic birds include the flightlesssnoring rail, thefiery-browed starling, theSulawesi masked owl, theSulawesi myna, thesatanic nightjar and thegrosbeak starling. There are around 350 known bird species in Sulawesi.

Reptiles

[edit]

The larger reptiles of Sulawesi are not endemic and includereticulated andBurmese pythons, thePacific ground boa,king cobras,water monitors,sailfin lizards,[74]saltwater crocodiles[74][75] andgreen sea turtles. An extinct gianttortoise,Megalochelys atlas, was formerly present, but disappeared by 840,000 years ago, possibly because of the arrival ofHomo erectus.[66][68] Similarly,komodo dragons or similar lizards appear to have inhabited the island, being among itsapex predators.[76] The smaller snakes of Sulawesi include nonendemic forms such as the gliding speciesChrysopelea paradisi and endemic forms such asCalamariaboesemani,Calamaria muelleri,Calamaria nuchalis,Cyclotyphlops,Enhydrismatannensis,Ptyasdipsas,Rabdion grovesi,Tropidolaemus laticinctus andTyphlops conradi. Similarly, the smaller lizards of Sulawesi include nonendemic species such asBronchocela jubata,Dibamus novaeguineae andGekko smithii, as well as endemic species such asLipiniainfralineolata andGekko iskandari.

Sulawesi also harbours several species of freshwater chelonians, two of which are endemic. They include theForsten's tortoise and theSulawesi forest turtle, both of which likely attribute their respective origins to the dispersal of the mainland Asianelongated tortoise andMalayan flat-shelled turtle from the then-exposed subcontinent ofSundaland during thePleistocene epoch.

The remaining two species consist of the non-endemicMalayan box turtle of the Wallacean subspecies, and theAsiatic softshell turtle.

Amphibians

[edit]

The amphibians of Sulawesi include the endemic frogsHylarana celebensis,H. macrops,H. mocquardi,Ingerophrynus celebensis,Limnonectes arathooni,L. larvaepartus,L. microtympanum,Occidozyga celebensis,O. semipalmata andO. tompotika as well as the endemic "flying frogs"Rhacophorus edentulus andR. georgii.

Freshwater fish

[edit]
15 species ofviviparous halfbeaks are endemic to Sulawesi, including 12Nomorhamphus (depicted),Dermogenys orientalis,D. vogti, andTondanichthys kottelati.[77][78][79]

Sulawesi is home to more than 70freshwater fish species,[80] including more than 55 endemics.[81] Among these are the genusNomorhamphus, aspecies flock ofviviparous halfbeaks containing 12 species that only are found on Sulawesi (others are from the Philippines).[77][78] In addition toNomorhamphus, the majority of Sulawesi's freshwater fish species arericefishes, gobies (Glossogobius andMugilogobius) andTelmatherinid sail-fin silversides.[81] The last family is almost entirely restricted to Sulawesi, especially the Malili Lake system, consisting ofMatano andTowuti, and the smallLontoa (Wawantoa),Mahalona andMasapi.[82] Another unusual endemic isLagusia micracanthus from rivers inSouth Sulawesi, which is the sole member of its genus and among the smallestgrunters.[83] ThegudgeonBostrychus microphthalmus from theMaros Karst is the only described species ofcave-adapted fish from Sulawesi,[84] but an apparentlyundescribed species from the same region and genus also exists.[85]

Freshwater crustaceans and snails

[edit]
Orange delight shrimp (Caridina loehae) from Sulawesi.

Many species ofCaridina freshwater shrimp andparathelphusid freshwater crabs (Migmathelphusa,Nautilothelphusa,Parathelphusa,Sundathelphusa andSyntripsa) are endemic to Sulawesi.[86][87] Several of these species have become very popular in the aquarium hobby, and since most are restricted to a single lake system, they are potentially vulnerable tohabitat loss andoverexploitation.[86][87] There are also several endemic cave-adapted shrimp and crabs, especially in the Maros Karst. This includesCancrocaeca xenomorpha, which has been called the "most highlycave-adapted species of crab known in the world".[88]

The genusTylomelania offreshwater snails is also endemic to Sulawesi, with the majority of the species restricted toLake Poso and the Malili Lake system.[89]

Insects

[edit]

TheTrigonopterus selayarensis is a flightlessweevil endemic to Sulawesi.[90]

Miscellaneous

[edit]

TheIndonesian coelacanth and themimic octopus are present in the waters off Sulawesi's coast.

Conservation

[edit]

Sulawesi island was recently the subject of an Ecoregional Conservation Assessment, coordinated byThe Nature Conservancy. Detailed reports about the vegetation of the island are available.[91] The assessment produced a detailed and annotated list of 'conservation portfolio' sites. This information was widely distributed to local government agencies and nongovernmental organizations. Detailed conservation priorities have also been outlined in a recent publication.[92]

The lowland forests on the island have mostly been removed.[93] Because of the relative geological youth of the island and its dramatic and sharp topography, the lowland areas are naturally limited in their extent. The past decade has seen dramatic conversion of this rare and endangered habitat. The island also possesses one of the largest outcrops ofserpentine soil in the world, which support an unusual and large community of specialized plant species. Overall, the flora and fauna of this unique center of global biodiversity is very poorly documented and understood and remains critically threatened.

The islands of Pepaya, Mas, and Raja islands, located in Sumalata Village –North Gorontalo Regency (about 30 km fromSaronde Island), have been named a nature reserve since the Dutch colonial time in 1936. Four of the only seven species ofsea turtles can be found in the islands, the world's best turtle habitat. They include penyu hijau (Chelonia midas), penyu sisik (Eretmochelys imbricata), penyu tempayan (Caretta caretta) and penyu belimbing (Dermochelys coriacea). In 2011, the habitat was threatened by human activities such as illegal poaching and fish bombing activities; furthermore, many coral reefs, which represent a source of food for turtles, have been damaged.[94]

Environment

[edit]
Bunaken Island seen from Manado Tua island.

The largest environmental issue in Sulawesi isdeforestation. In 2007, scientists found that 80 percent of Sulawesi's forest had been lost or degraded, especially centered in the lowlands and the mangroves.[95] Forests have been felled for logging and large agricultural projects. Loss of forest has resulted in many of Sulawesi's endemic species becoming endangered. In addition, 99 percent of Sulawesi's wetlands have been lost or damaged.

Other environmental threats included bushmeat hunting and mining.[96]

Parks

[edit]

The island of Sulawesi has six national parks and nineteen nature reserves. In addition, Sulawesi has three marine protected areas. Many of Sulawesi's parks are threatened by logging, mining, and deforestation for agriculture.[96]

See also

[edit]

Explanatory notes

[edit]
  1. ^Technically, Tomini[6] and Boni[7] are defined as gulfs by theInternational Hydrographic Organization, while Tolo is considered a bay of theMolucca Sea.[8]

Citations

[edit]
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General sources

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External links

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Wikimedia Commons has media related toSulawesi.
Wikisource has the text of the1911Encyclopædia Britannica article "Celebes".
Look upsulawesi in Wiktionary, the free dictionary.
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