Cane sugar was introduced toJapan in the 8th century, and over the next millennium was consumed rarely and as a medicine.[2] By the early 16th century, sweets in Japan contained little if anysugar.[3] This began to change in the second half of the century as European and Asian traders reintroduced cane sugar to Japan. Uptake was assisted by simultaneous developments: on theRyukyu islands, Chinese andRyukyuan people established plantations and brought equipment that could process the new ingredient, and advice on how to use sugar in culinary applications was provided by Spanish and Portuguese merchants and missionaries. With this new knowledge, savory Buddhist dishes were remade as sugary sweets, and the confectionwagashi was created by combining refined sugar with colorings andglutinous rice. Sugar was still used sparingly, but now held the status of a luxury.[2] Despite the creation of the new sweets, most consumption remained medicinal. When it did feature in savoury cuisine, it was to flavor vegetables andsukiyaki. It was never added to tea.[1] Japan's supply at this time came from two sources: China forwhite sugar, and the Ryukyu islands forbrown.[2]
Wider culinary adoption came at the end of the 19th century. In 1895,Japan annexed Taiwan and began importing its sugar. By 1903, almost all of Japan's sugar came from Taiwan, and the average annual consumption had increased to 12 pounds (5.4 kg) per capita from 5 pounds fifteen years earlier. With a cheaper price, chefs more frequently used it in their savory cooking, including in sushi rice.[2] In the following decades as imports of sugar increased, its use was held as a sign of civilized modernity, and rural areas of Japan still following cuisines that lacked sugar were regarded as inferior.[4] Sugar was rationed during World War II, and propaganda in the era emphasized the chain of production.[5] In the years after the war, sugar consumption continued to increase, in large part as processed foods and carbonated drinks made up more of the diet. Despite this, as of the 2010s consumption remained significantly lower than what was consumed in other high-income developed nations.[6]
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