 A typicalMinangkabau songket, the pattern in the lower third representingbamboo sprouts | |
| Type | Art fabric |
|---|---|
| Material | Silk,cotton,gold,silver |
| Place of origin | Palembang, Sumatra (present-dayIndonesia, mainly and originally),[1][2] spread throughoutMaritime Southeast Asia[3] |
| Songket | |
|---|---|
| Country | Malaysia |
| Domains | Traditional craftsmanship |
| Reference | 01505 |
| Region | Asia and the Pacific |
| Inscription history | |
| Inscription | 2021 (16th session) |
| List | Representative List |
 | |
Songket orsungkit is atenun fabric that belongs to thebrocade family oftextiles ofBrunei,Indonesia, andMalaysia. It ishand-woven insilk orcotton, and intricately patterned withgold orsilverthreads.[4] The metallic threads stand out against the background cloth to create a shimmering effect. In the weaving process the metallic threads are inserted in between the silk or cottonweft (latitudinal) threads in a technique calledsupplementary weft weaving technique.[5]
Songket is often associated with theSrivijaya Empire as the origin of the songket tradition, several types of popular Songket can not be separated from locations that were once under Srivijaya rule, one of the dominant locations which is also believed to be the capital of the Srivijaya Empire in the past, namelyPalembang, which located inSouth Sumatra, Indonesia. Besides Palembang, several areas in Sumatra are also the best-in-class Songket producing locations, which include areas in Minangkabau orWest Sumatra such as Pandai Sikek, Silungkang, Koto Gadang, and Padang. Outside of Sumatra, songket is also produced by regions such asBali,Lombok,Sambas,Sumba,Makassar,Sulawesi, and other areas in Indonesia.
Due to the historical factors of the Srivijaya Empire, trade, and mixed marriages, Songket has also become popular in the Maritime Southeast Asia region, especially in countries around Indonesia such asBrunei,Malaysia, andSingapore.
Based on the analysis conducted on the statues at theBumiayu temple, South Sumatra, it can be seen that songket has been worn by the people of South Sumatra since the 8th century CE, when Srivijaya was based in Palembang. This statue was found at the Bumiayu Temple Archaeological Site which is located on the downstream bank ofLematang River which empties intoMusi River, precisely inTanah Abang District,Penukal Abab Lematang Ilir Regency approximately 120 km to the west of Palembang City.
InIndonesia, fivesongket traditions are recognised asIntangible Cultural Heritage by theIndonesian Ministry of Education and Culture.[6]They are songket traditions ofPalembang[7] andSambas,[8] both appointed in 2013;Pandai Sikek songket ofWest Sumatra,[9] appointed in 2014; songket tradition ofBeratan, Bali appointed in 2018;[10] and Silungkang songket tradition of West Sumatra, appointed in 2019.[11] In 2021,UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) officially recognized Songket as aMasterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.[12]
The termsongket derived from theMalay word ofsungkit, which means "to hook". It is referred to the method of songket making; to hook and pick a group of threads, and then slip the gold and silver threads in it.[13] Another theory suggested that it was constructed from the combination of two terms;tusuk (prick) andcukit (pick) that combined assukit, modified further assukit and finallysongket.[14] Some says that the wordsongket was derived fromsongka, aPalembang cap in which gold threads was first woven.[1] The earliest confirmable written proof of this clothing in Malay texts always mentionedsungkit instead ofsongket, for example theHikayat Aceh of 1620s andHikayat Banjar of 1660s.[15]
TheMalay wordmenyongket means ‘to embroider with gold or silver threads’.[16] Songket is a luxury product traditionally worn during ceremonial occasions assarong, shoulder cloths or head ties andtanjak, a headdress songket. Songket were worn at the courts of Kingdoms inSumatra especially theSrivijaya, as the source and the origin of Malay culture inSoutheast Asia.[17] In the early kingdom age, Songkets are also traditionally worn as an apparel by theMalay royal families inSumatra such as theDeli Sultanate inMedan,Serdang Sultanate,Palembang Sultanate inPalembang and the recently restored royal house inJambi and sultanates inMalay Peninsula such asPattani,Kelantan andTerengganu.[18] The fabric is even mandated as part of the ceremonial court dress ofBruneian royalty since the time ofOmar Ali Saifuddien III.[19] Traditionally women are the weavers of songket, however in this modern time men also are known to weave it as well.[1]
Songket is known in many names in vernacularIndonesian languages. Other than inSumatra and Malay peninsula, it is also commonly known assongket inBali andJava. While it is known assongke inManggarai,Flores, andBima inSumbawa. TheKaro Batak ofNorth Sumatra, call itjongkit. People inTernate, Maluku, call itsuje, while theBuginese inSouth Sulawesi call itsubbi’ andarekare’ and theIban Dayak inWest Kalimantan and Sarawak call itpilih orpileh.[5]
Songket weaving traditions at first, historically associated withSrivijaya empire,[20][21] a wealthy 7th to 13th-century maritime trading empire based onSumatra.Palembang[22] andMinangkabau Pandai Sikek area are the best and the most famous songket producers inIndonesia.[23] According to a Palembang folk tradition that has been narrated for generations, the origin of songket came from the Chinese traders who broughtsilk threads, while the Indian or Middle Eastern traders brought gold threads. Subsequently, the woven combination has become the exquisitely shimmering golden songket.[22] It associated with areas ofMalay settlement inSumatra, and the production techniques could have been introduced byIndian orArab merchants.[1]
Songket is a luxurious textile that required some amount of realgold leaves andgold threads to be hand-woven into exquisite fabrics, surely it has become a symbol of luxury and social status.[23] Historically the gold mines are located in Sumatra hinterland;Jambi andMinangkabau Highlands.[24]: 451 Although gold threads were found buried in the Srivijaya ruins in Sumatra, along with unpolished rubies and pieces of gold plate, there is no corroborating evidence that the local weavers used gold threads as early as 7th century to early 8th century.[1]
Based on archaeological data, it can be seen that songket has been known by the people ofSouth Sumatra between the 8th to the 9th century CE,[25] as seen in ancient statues cloths motifs from the site of theBumiayu temple complex inPenukal Abab Lematang Ilir Regency, South Sumatra Province, Indonesia.[2][26] At that time the use of songket was reserved only for the nobility, as seen from the statues which were probably the deified personification of a king. The evidence for the existence of songket can be seen on the lepus motifs found on the vest worn by Figure 1 at the Bumiayu temple complex. The use of lepus motif shows the continuity of that motif that has been around since the 9th century.[2]
The description of textiles reminiscent of songket can be found in 10th century Chinese source fromSong dynasty. According to this Song chronicle, in 992 the envoy fromShe-po (Java) arrived in Chinese court bearing a lot of gifts, consists of silk "woven with floral motifs made ofgold threads", ivories, pearls, silk of various colours, fragrantsandalwood, cotton clothes of various colours, turtle shells,betel nut preparation kit,kris dagger with exquisite hilt made of rhino horn and gold,rattan mat with the image ofwhite cockatoo, and a small model of house made of sandalwood adorned with valuable ornaments.[27]: 199
Studies of Javanese statues dated from Indonesian Hindu-Buddhist period between 8th to 15th centuries provides a glimpse of the fashion during that period. These statues were decorated elaborately including textiles pattern. The details ofkain lower garment of Durga Mahisasuramardini form the 13th-centurySinghasari temple near Malang, shows elaborately carved tassels which suggests goldwork decoration. The costume is completed with two sashes draped over the legs carved withbunga bintang or "star flower" motifs, a pattern that continues today in songket design. The precision of stone carved textile suggests the designs are unlikely an invention of sculptor's imagination, and more likely to have replicated a cloth that existed at the time.[28]: 154
Various Chinese and Arab accounts mentioned the presence of textiles produced within the region and emphasized the prevalence of weaving in the Malay Peninsula.[29]: 19 According to Kelantan tradition this weaving technique came from the north, somewhere in theCambodia-Siam region and expanded south intoPattani, and finally reach the Malay court ofKelantan andTerengganu as early as the 16th century.[1][30] The weaving of songket continues as a small cottage industry on the outskirts ofKota Bharu and Terengganu.[31] However, Terengganu weavers believe that songket weaving technique was introduced to Malaysia from India throughSumatra'sPalembang andJambi where it probably originated during the time ofSrivijaya (7th to 11th century).[1] Nevertheless, Zani Bin Ismail put forth the argument that the origins of songket can be traced to China and subsequently spread to Indochina, including Cambodia and Thailand. His assertion was based on the similarities observed in the handweaving looms of Terengganu, Cambodia, and Thailand.[32]
Another possible of origin of songket based onLiang dynasty record (502-557) is fromLangkasuka kingdom, an ancient kingdom dressed in the Malay Peninsula. It's King dressed ‘rose-colored cloth with gold flowers’, which could have been a songket of some kind, as red is traditional color of Songket.[28]: 34
Much documentation is sketchy about the origins of the songket but it is most likely that songket weaving was brought to Peninsular Malaysia through intermarriages between royal families. This was a common occurrence in the 15th century for sealing strategic alliances. Production was located in politically significant kingdoms because of the high cost of materials; the gold thread used was originally wound with realgold leaf.[33]
The use of songket vest with lepus motif as described in the statue of the Bumiayu temple, was also popular during the IslamicPalembang Sultanate period from the 16th to 19th centuries, and limited only for the upper class of the society. After the collapse of the sultanate, songket began to spread among non-aristocrats.[2]
Songket as king's dress was also mentioned byAbdullah bin Abdul Kadir writings in 1849.[34]
Songket is traditionally considered an exquisite, luxurious and prestigious traditional fabric, only worn for special occasions, religious festivals, and traditional social functions. It has become a required garment for brides and grooms for their weddings, as in the traditional wedding costumes ofPalembangese,Minangkabau andBalinese people.[35]
In Indonesian tradition, songket has become a marker of social status.[23] Traditionally a certain songket motif is reserved for particular social status. For example in Palembang songket tradition, thelepus motifs were originally reserved only forbangsawan (royalty, nobles or aristocrats).[36] Indeed songket is employed as thesocial marker of the wearer, even as far as to inform the marital status of the wearer. In old Palembang,widows wore outstandingselendang (shoulder cloth) songket to disclose their social and marital status. There are two kinds of specific songket motifs for widows; those for widows eligible for remarriage is calledsongket janda berias (dress up widow songket),[37] and those for widow brides is calledsongket janda pengantin (widow bride songket).[38]
Today, songket are usually made from affordable materials, such as using artificial gold threads made ofnylon instead of puregold threads. Nevertheless, there are few rare songket that is actually made fromreal gold threads. These are precious textiles that are held aspusaka orheirloom passed down for generations within a family.[39]
Today, songket is mostly worn in traditional settings as traditional costumes for weddings or any traditional ceremonies. Several efforts has been conducted to promote songket as a popular fabric for fashion, either locally and abroad. During the Dutch colonial era, West Sumatran songket were exhibited in the Netherlands. The Sawahlunto Songket Carnival was held inSawahlunto, West Sumatra in August 2015. The songket carnival featured a parade and exhibition with participants from numbers of songket studios across West Sumatra. The carnival, held on 28 August 2015, was recorded in the Indonesian Museum of Records for the most people wearing songket at a same time, with 17,290 people wearing Silungkang songket during the event.[40]
Several exhibitions has been held to preserve and promote the traditional art of songket making, such as the songket exhibition held in 2015 byJakarta Textile Museum, which showcased around 100 pieces of songket from various Indonesian provinces.[41]
Today, songket has become a source of inspiration for contemporary fashion designers who draw ideas from this traditional art.[42]
Songket Minangkabau is a traditional songket woven cloth fromWest Sumatra that is an important part of cultural identity in theMinangkabau tradition. Songket is closely related to the Minangkabau community because it has been widely used as a material for traditional clothing and other traditional core crafts. There are various types of Minangkabau songket motifs and philosophies, each motif passed down from generation to generation for use in the Pepatih custom.
The history of the Songket Minangkabau itself comes from theSrivijaya which was then developed through the Sumatran kingdom until it finally entered the Minang realm. Songket was created as a means of expression because the Minang people in ancient times could not write and finally they also expressed their feelings into songket so that each songket has a different meaning.
As a characteristic of cloth in Minangkabau, the famous songket cloth in West Sumatra isSongket Pandai Sikek and Songket Silungkang. The names of the two songkets are taken from the name of the place where this songket comes from, namely Pandai Sikek in Tanah Datar and Silungkang in Sawahlunto.
Songket Minangkabau is a unique traditional art form. This weaving art is quite complicated and requires precision and perseverance in the weaving process. In addition, the ornaments or motifs of Minangkabau songket are not just decorations or ornaments. Minangkabau songket motifs or decorations each have a name and meaning, namely about the journey of Minangkabau culture and society. Songket Minangkabau motifs are displayed in the form of natural symbols, especially plants, which are rich in explicit and implied meanings. Songket motifs are often named after plants, animals or objects in the natural environment. For example,Bungo Malur,Kudo-Kudo,Balapak Gadang,Ranggo Patai Pucuak,Pucuak,Pucuak kelapa, and many more. The decorative motifs on the edge of the songket cloth are also named, such asBungo Tanjung,Lintahu Ayahah,Bareh Diatua,Ula Gerang, and others. Like the motifs ofBatik which are full of meaning, the Silungkang songket motifs are also studded with philosophy.
The motif of Kaluak Paku (the curve of a young fern shoot) means "Before correcting others, we should look inside ourselves first". While the Ilalang Rabah motif (falling down) means "Vigilance, prudence and accuracy of a leader are the main things".
The most popular and sacred motif for the Minangkabau community is thePucuk Rebung motif or in the local language calledPucuak Rabuang symbolizing a useful life throughout. It all appears in the evolution of bamboo shoots (Bambu muda) to aging which reflects the process of human life towards a useful person.[43][44][45]
There are two categories of songket weaving equipments; the main weaving equipment made from wooden or bamboo frame; and the supporting equipment which includes thread stretching tool, motif making tool, thread inserting and picking tools. The materials for making songket consist ofcotton or silk threads or other fibers as the base fabric and decoration threads made from golden, silver orsilk threads. It is believed that in ancient times, realgold threads were used to create songket; the cotton threads were run along heated liquid gold, coating the cotton and creating gold thread. However today because the scarcity and the expensiveness of real gold threads, imitation gold or silver threads are commonly used instead.
The songket technique itself involves the insertion of decorative threads in between the wefts as they are woven into the warp, which is fixed to the loom. They are inserted as part of the weaving process, but not necessary in the making of the cloth. There are four types ofsupplementary weft weaving technique: continuous, discontinuous, inlaid and wrapped.[5]
Songket weaving is done in two stages, weaving the basic cloth with even or plain weaving and weaving the decoration inserted into basic cloth, this method is called "inlay weaving system".[14] The shining gold, silver or silk threads were inserted and woven into the plain weave base cloth in certain motifs, creating a shimmering effect of golden pattern against darker plain background. Songket weaving is traditionally done as a part-time job by young girls and older women in between their daily domestic chores. The complicated process of songket making is believed to cultivate virtues, as it reflects the values of diligence, carefulness and patience.
There are hundreds of songket motifs. InPalembang tradition, songket is inseparable from the lives of the people who wear it during important events such as births, marriages, and death.[4] Palembang songket recognises several types of songket patterns; they arelepus, tretes, limar, tawur, bungo, andrumpak songkets.[36] Examples ofPalembang songketmotifs arenaga besaung, pucuk rebung, biji pare, bintang berante, bintang kayu apuy, bungo mawar, bungo melati, bungo cino, bungo jepang, bungo intan, bungo pacik, cantik manis, lepus berakam, pulir, nampan perak, tabur limar andtigo negeri.[14]
InIndonesia, songket is produced inSumatra,Kalimantan,Bali,Sulawesi,Lombok andSumbawa. In Sumatra the famous songket production centers is inMinangkabau Pandai Sikek inTanah Datar Regency,[46] and Koto Gadang inAgam Regency, also Silungkang area inSawahlunto, West Sumatra,[40]Jambi City, Jambi andPalembang, South Sumatra. InBali, songket production villages can be found inKlungkung regency, especially at Sidemen and Gelgel village.[47] The Klungkung Market is a popular spot to shopBalinese songket, as it offers wide collection of this traditional fabrics.[35]
While in the neighboring island ofLombok, the Sukarara village in Jonggat district, Central Lombok regency, is also famous for songket making.[48] In this village, learning how to weave a good songket is an obligation for theSasak women. Weaving songket is usually done by women during their spare time, and subsequently this traditional skill has enabled them to earn money for their family.[49]
InMalaysia production area included the east coast of theMalay Peninsula[29] especially in the city of Kuala Terengganu,Terengganu and the Kota Bharu,Kelantan.[33]
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Clothing identified withIndonesian culture and still worn today | |
| Textiles and weaving | |
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