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Inoceanography,sea state is the general condition of thefree surface on a large body of water—with respect towind waves andswell—at a certain location and moment. A sea state is characterized bystatistics, including thewave height,period, andspectrum. The sea state varies with time, as the wind and swell conditions change. The sea state can be assessed either by an experienced observer (like a trained mariner) or by using instruments likeweather buoys,wave radar, orEarth observation satellites.[1]
The short-term statistics describing the sea state are determined for a time interval in which the sea state is considered to be constant. This duration has to be much longer than the individual wave period, but shorter than the period in which the wind and swell conditions can be expected to vary significantly. Typically, the sea state is assumed to be constant for 15-30 minutes.[1]
The large number of variables involved in creating and describing the sea state cannot be quickly and easily summarized, so simpler scales are used to give an approximate but concise description of conditions for reporting in a ship's log or similar record.[citation needed]
TheWorld Meteorological Organization (WMO) sea state code largely adopts the 'wind sea' definition of theDouglas Sea Scale.[citation needed] The direction from which the swell is coming should be recorded.[citation needed]
| WMO Sea State Code | Wave height | Characteristics |
|---|---|---|
| 0 | 0 metres (0 ft) | Calm (glassy) |
| 1 | 0 to 0.1 metres (0.0 to 3.9 in) | Calm (rippled) |
| 2 | 0.1 to 0.5 metres (3.9 in to 1 ft 7.7 in) | Smooth (wavelets) |
| 3 | 0.5 to 1.25 metres (1 ft 8 in to 4 ft 1 in) | Slight |
| 4 | 1.25 to 2.5 metres (4 ft 1 in to 8 ft 2 in) | Moderate |
| 5 | 2.5 to 4 metres (8 ft 2 in to 13 ft 1 in) | Rough |
| 6 | 4 to 6 metres (13 to 20 ft) | Very rough |
| 7 | 6 to 9 metres (20 to 30 ft) | High |
| 8 | 9 to 14 metres (30 to 46 ft) | Very high |
| 9 | Over 14 metres (46 ft) | Phenomenal |
| 0. None | |
| Low | 1. Short or average 2. Long |
| Moderate | 3. Short 4. Average 5. Long |
| High | 6. Short 7. Average 8. Long |
| 9. Confused |
In engineering applications, sea states are often characterized by the following two parameters:
In addition to the short-term wave statistics presented above, long-term sea state statistics are often given as a joint frequency table of the significant wave height and the mean wave period. From the long and short-term statistical distributions, it is possible to find the extreme values expected over a given number of years by fitting an extreme value distribution.[3] The extreme value distribution can then inform an engineer about the most extreme significant wave height to be expected during a lifetime of a ship or offshore structure. Using theresponse amplitude operators of the ship, the engineer can then use the extremes in significant wave height and wave period to calculate the most extreme loads that the ship should be able to withstand. Withstanding significant wave heights that happen on average once in 100 years or once in 1000 years is a common demand for design of ships and offshore structures.[4]
The "Sea State" project within theESA's Climate Change Initiative (CCI) program created an 18-year data set (2002–2020) covering various sea state-relatedEssential Climate Variables as measured by theJason satellite series, other ocean-focusedEarth observation satellites, andin situ sources.[5][6][7][8] In 2025, data from CCI Sea State, combined with the newSWOT satellite measurements, were used to describe a new record wave height of nearly 20 m in the open ocean.[9][10]
