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Sandy Powell (costume designer)

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
British costume designer (born 1960)

Sandy Powell
Born (1960-04-07)7 April 1960 (age 65)
London, England
Alma materCentral School of Art
OccupationCostume designer
Years active1985–present

Sandy PowellCBE RDI (born 7 April 1960) is a Britishcostume designer. She has received numerous accolades, including threeAcademy Awards, threeBAFTA Film Awards, and twoCostume Designers Guild Awards. She has been honored with theCDG Career Achievement Award in 2010 and theBAFTA Fellowship in 2023. Powell was appointedCommander of the Order of the British Empire (CBE) in 2025.

Powell is best known for her collaborations with directorsDerek Jarman,Neil Jordan,Todd Haynes andMartin Scorsese.[1][2][3][4] She has received 15 nominations for theAcademy Award for Best Costume Design and has won three times forShakespeare in Love (1998),The Aviator (2004), andThe Young Victoria (2009). She has also been nominated for theBAFTA Award for Best Costume Design a record 16 times and had three wins forVelvet Goldmine (1998),The Young Victoria, andThe Favourite (2018).

Early life and education

[edit]

Powell was born in London in 1960,[5] and grew up inBrixton andClapham.[6] Her father worked in casinos, while her mother was a secretary.[7] In 2023, Powell said in an interview with fashion journalistSuzy Menkes that, despite their close friendship, she was not related to fellow costume designer Anthony Powell. Information about them being cousins has falsely spread online.[8] Powell learned to sew from her mother on aSinger sewing machine,[9] drew pictures of clothes, designed and made outfits for her dolls, and started making her own clothes from a young age.[10] She also developed an interest in film and theatre from an early age.[7]

Powell attendedSydenham High School,[9] and in 1978 she completed an art foundation course atSaint Martin's School of Art, where she became acquainted withLea Anderson, who later became a dancer and choreographer as well as Powell's collaborator.[11] In 1979, Powell began a BA in theatre design at theCentral School of Art and Design, but left after two years before completing her degree and started working for fringe theatre companies.[9][5]

Career

[edit]

1980–1997: Early work

[edit]
Powell at the61st Berlin International Film Festival (2011)

After leaving Central, Powell began a working relationship with dancer and choreographerLindsay Kemp, whom she greatly admired. She designed costumes for his productions, the first of which was the showNijinsky atLa Scala inMilan.[10][12] In the early 1980s, Powell became acquainted with filmmakerDerek Jarman, who became a mentor and an influential figure in her life.[7] Following Jarman's advice, she spent a year working on music videos.[13][14] She made her entry into the film industry in 1986, designing costumes for the Jarman filmCaravaggio.[9]

In 1992, Powell achieved prominence in the period drama filmOrlando, directed bySally Potter.[12] Operating on a limited budget,[15] Powell created elaborate costumes for the gender-switching and time-traveling protagonist (played byTilda Swinton), for which she received her firstAcademy Award nomination forBest Costume Design.[16] Powell also began a collaboration with directorNeil Jordan, which would produce a total of six films including the crime thrillerThe Crying Game (1992), the gothic horror filmInterview with the Vampire (1994) and the period dramaMichael Collins (1996).[15]

1998–2017: Breakthrough

[edit]

Powell received dual nominations at the71st Academy Awards for her two 1998 films,Velvet Goldmine andShakespeare in Love. Echoing the contemporary tone ofShakespeare in Love, Powell opted to sacrifice historical accuracy in her costume designs but still managed to achieve "emotional accuracy", according toSalon criticStephanie Zacharek. The detail on the costumes ofGwyneth Paltrow's Viola and the thematic significance of her costume changes were also noted as highlights of the film. For her work in the film, Powell won her first Academy Award for Best Costume Design.[16]

Costume worn byEmily Blunt inThe Young Victoria, designed by Powell.

Following her win at the71st Academy Awards, Powell began her collaboration with directorMartin Scorsese, starting with his 2002 epic period drama filmGangs of New York, for which she earned her 5th Oscar nomination. The two reunited for the 2004 biographical drama filmThe Aviator, for which Powell won her second Academy Award.[17] Powell accepted her Oscar while wearing a dress made by her frequent collaborator, the costume cutterAnnie Hadley, which was a version of a dress worn by Cate Blanchett in the film.[18]

In 2005 she worked onStephen Frears'Mrs Henderson Presents earning another Academy Award nomination. She worked on Scorsese gain this time for a film set in modern-day creating current day clothing for the Boston crime dramaThe Departed (2006) starringLeonardo DiCaprio,Matt Damon, andJack Nicholson. She then worked on the historical romantic dramaThe Other Boleyn Girl which was based on2001 novel of the same name byPhilippa Gregory. The film was directed byJustin Chadwick and starredScarlett Johansson,Natalie Portman, andEric Bana.

In 2009, She worked on the romantic period dramaThe Young Victoria directed byJean-Marc Vallée.[19] The film starredEmily Blunt asQueen Victoria, and the film revolves around her upbringing and romance withPrince Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha portrayed byRupert Friend. She won her thirdAcademy Award for Best Costume Design, and aBAFTA Award for Best Costume Design for her work on the film. The following year she worked on Scorsese's psychological thrillerShutter Island starringLeonardo DiCaprio andJulie Taymor'sThe Tempest withHelen Mirren. In 2011 she was nominated for theAcademy Award for Best Costume Design her work on Scorsese's children's action adventure filmHugo losing toMark Bridges forThe Artist (2011).

Detail of the costume worn byHelen Mirren inThe Tempest, designed by Powell.

In 2016, Powell received her second dual nominations at the88th Academy Awards, having been recognized for her works inKenneth Branagh'sDisney live-action adaptation ofCinderella and forTodd Haynes' romantic dramaCarol (2015). The later was based on thePatricia Highsmith novelThe Price of Salt (1952). The film starredCate Blanchett andRooney Mara as starcrossed lovers in the 1950s.[20] She reunited with Haynes for the black and white filmWonderstruck (2017) starringJulianne Moore andMichelle Williams, based on the2011 novel of the same name byBrian Selznick. She also served as an executive producer on the film.[21] That same year, she worked on theJohn Cameron Mitchell's wacky science fiction romantic comedyHow to Talk to Girls at Parties (2017).

2018–present

[edit]

In 2019, Powell garnered her third dual nominations at the91st Academy Awards for her works inYorgos Lanthimos'The Favourite (2018) andRob Marshall'sMary Poppins Returns (2018), making her the most nominated costume designer in Academy Awards history afterEdith Head.[22] In 2020, Powell received her 15th Oscar nomination in her seventh collaboration with Martin Scorsese in his epic crime filmThe Irishman starringRobert De Niro,Al Pacino, andJoe Pesci. She shared the nomination with her co-designer,Christopher Peterson.[23][19]

In the same year, Powell collected many stars' signatures ona cream calico suit in a widely publicized tour of 2020 awards ceremonies, including the92nd Academy Awards and73rd British Academy Film Awards, to be auctioned to raise funds for the preservation of director Derek Jarman's home,Prospect Cottage.[24] She also did the costume design for the British dramaLiving (2021) starringBill Nighy and the live action Disney filmSnow White starringRachel Zegler.

Filmography

[edit]
YearTitleDirectorNotes
1986CaravaggioDerek Jarman
1987AriaSegment: "Depuis le jour"
The Last of England
1988Stormy MondayMike Figgis
For Queen and CountryMartin Stellman
1989Venus PeterIan Sellar
Killing DadMichael Austin
Shadow of ChinaMitsuo Yanagimachi
1991The MiracleNeil Jordan
The Pope Must DiePeter Richardson
Edward IIDerek JarmanAlso makes a cameo as Seamstress
1992OrlandoSally Potter
The Crying GameNeil Jordan
1993WittgensteinDerek Jarman
1994Being HumanBill Forsyth
Interview with the VampireNeil Jordan
1995Rob RoyMichael Caton-Jones
1996Michael CollinsNeil Jordan
1997The Butcher Boy
The Wings of the DoveIain Softley
1998Velvet GoldmineTodd Haynes
Hilary and JackieAnand Tucker
Shakespeare in LoveJohn Madden
1999Felicia's JourneyAtom Egoyan
Miss JulieMike Figgis
The End of the AffairNeil Jordan
2002Far from HeavenTodd Haynes
Gangs of New YorkMartin Scorsese
2003SylviaChristine Jeffs
2004The AviatorMartin Scorsese
2005Mrs Henderson PresentsStephen Frears
2006The DepartedMartin Scorsese
2008The Other Boleyn GirlJustin Chadwick
2009The Young VictoriaJean-Marc Vallée
2010Shutter IslandMartin Scorsese
The TempestJulie Taymor
2011HugoMartin Scorsese
2012Suspension of DisbeliefMike Figgis
2013The Wolf of Wall StreetMartin Scorsese
2015CinderellaKenneth Branagh
CarolTodd Haynes
2017WonderstruckAlso executive producer
How to Talk to Girls at PartiesJohn Cameron Mitchell
2018The FavouriteYorgos Lanthimos
Mary Poppins ReturnsRob Marshall
2019The IrishmanMartin ScorsesewithChristopher Peterson
2020The GloriasJulie Taymor
2021Mothering SundayEva Husson
2022LivingOliver Hermanus
2025Snow WhiteMarc Webb
2026The Bride!Maggie GyllenhaalPost-production
TBAThe Bitter EndMike NewellFilming
Key
Denotes film or TV productions that have not yet been released

Theatre

[edit]
YearProductionVenueNotes
1990Edward IIRoyal Shakespeare Company
1998RigolettoDe Nederlandse Opera
Doctor Ox's ExperimentEnglish National OperaCommissioned by the ENO withBBC Television
2024Gatsby: An American MythAmerican Repertory Theater

Awards and nominations

[edit]

Major associations

[edit]

Academy Awards

YearCategoryNominated workResultRef.
1993Best Costume DesignOrlandoNominated[25]
1997The Wings of the DoveNominated[26]
1998Shakespeare in LoveWon[27]
Velvet GoldmineNominated
2002Gangs of New YorkNominated[28]
2004The AviatorWon[29]
2005Mrs Henderson PresentsNominated[30]
2009The Young VictoriaWon[31]
2010The TempestNominated[32]
2011HugoNominated[33]
2015CarolNominated[34]
CinderellaNominated
2018The FavouriteNominated[35]
Mary Poppins ReturnsNominated
2019The IrishmanNominated[36]

BAFTA Awards

YearCategoryNominated workResultRef.
British Academy Film Awards
1993Best Costume DesignOrlandoNominated[37]
1994Interview with the VampireNominated[38]
1997The Wings of the DoveNominated[39]
1998Velvet GoldmineWon[40]
Shakespeare in LoveNominated[41]
1999The End of the AffairNominated[42]
2002Gangs of New YorkNominated[43]
2004The AviatorNominated[44]
2005Mrs Henderson PresentsNominated[45]
2009The Young VictoriaWon[46]
2011HugoNominated[47]
2015CarolNominated[48]
CinderellaNominated
2018The FavouriteWon[49]
Mary Poppins ReturnsNominated[50]
2019The IrishmanNominated[51]
2022BAFTA FellowshipHonored[52]

Miscellaneous awards

[edit]
List of Sandy Powell other awards and nominations
AwardYearCategoryTitleResultRef.
Apolo Awards2016Best Costume DesignCarolNominated[53]
2019The FavouriteWon[54]
British Independent Film Awards2005Best Technical AchievementMrs Henderson PresentsNominated[55]
2017Best Costume DesignHow to Talk to Girls at PartiesNominated[56]
2018The FavouriteWon[57]
2022LivingNominated[58]
Camerimage2015Costume Designer with Unique Visual SensitivityHonored[59][60]
Capri Hollywood International Film Festival2002Capri Umberto Tirelli AwardGangs of New YorkWon[61]
2015Best Costume DesignCinderellaWon[62]
Capri Legend AwardHonored
2018Best Costume DesignMary Poppins ReturnsWon[63]
Costume Designers Guild Awards2004Excellence in Period/Fantasy FilmThe AviatorNominated[64]
2009Excellence in Period FilmThe Young VictoriaWon[65]
Career Achievement AwardHonored
2010Excellence in Fantasy FilmThe TempestNominated[66]
2011Excellence in Period FilmHugoNominated[67]
2015Excellence in Fantasy FilmCinderellaNominated[68]
Excellence in Period FilmCarolNominated
2018The FavouriteWon[69]
Mary Poppins ReturnsNominated[70]
Critics' Choice Movie Awards2009Best Costume DesignThe Young VictoriaWon[71]
2011HugoNominated[72]
2015CarolNominated[73]
CinderellaNominated
2018The FavouriteNominated[74]
Mary Poppins ReturnsNominated
2019The IrishmanNominated[75]
Empire Awards2015Best Costume DesignCarolNominated[76]
CinderellaNominated
European Film Awards2019Best Costume DesignerThe FavouriteWon[77]
Evening Standard British Film Awards1991Technical AchievementEdward II,The Miracle andThe Pope Must DieWon[78]
1993OrlandoWon[a]
Genie Awards[b]1999Best Costume DesignFelicia's JourneyNominated[79]
Hollywood Film Awards2015Hollywood Costume Design AwardCinderellaWon[80]
2018The FavouriteWon[81]
Las Vegas Film Critics Society Awards2002Best Costume DesignFar from HeavenNominated[82]
Gangs of New YorkNominated
2004The AviatorWon[83]
2018The FavouriteWon[84]
London Film Critics' Circle Awards2015Technical Achievement AwardCinderellaNominated[85]
2019Dilys Powell Award for Excellence in FilmHonored[86]
Online Film Critics Society Awards2002Best Costume DesignFar from HeavenWon[87]
Gangs of New YorkNominated
San Diego Film Critics Society Awards2018Best Costume DesignThe FavouriteWon[88]
Santa Barbara International Film Festival2020Variety Artisans AwardThe IrishmanWon[89]
Satellite Awards1997Best Costume DesignThe Wings of the DoveNominated[90]
1998Shakespeare in LoveNominated[91]
2002Gangs of New YorkNominated[92]
2004The AviatorNominated[93]
2009The Young VictoriaNominated[94]
2015CinderellaNominated[95]
2018The FavouriteWon[96]
2022LivingNominated[97]
Saturn Awards1994Best Costume DesignInterview with the VampireWon[98]
2011HugoNominated[99]
2015CinderellaNominated[100]
2018/19Mary Poppins ReturnsNominated[101]
Savannah Film Festival2021Variety’s Creative Impact in Costume DesignHonored[102]
Seattle Film Critics Society Awards[c]2015Best Costume DesignCarolNominated[103]
CinderellaNominated
2018The FavouriteNominated[104]
Mary Poppins ReturnsNominated
WFTV Awards2005AFM Lighting Craft AwardWon[105]

Honorary degrees

[edit]
Name of school, year given, and name of degree
SchoolYearDegreeRef.
University of the Arts London2018Honorary Fellow[9]

Other honours

[edit]

Notes

[edit]
  1. ^Tied withStuart Craig forThe Secret Garden
  2. ^succeeded theCanadian Film Awards (1949–78) and were merged with theGemini Awards in 2013 to form theCanadian Screen Awards
  3. ^prior to the SFCS formal establishment in 2016, a group of Seattle-area critics compiled theSeattle Film Critics Awards from 2013 to 2015.

References

[edit]
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