| Ruqun | |||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
A Chinese lady wearing anaoqun, a style ofruqun popular among Chinese women during theMing dynasty. | |||||||||||
| Chinese name | |||||||||||
| Traditional Chinese | 襦裙 | ||||||||||
| Simplified Chinese | 襦裙 | ||||||||||
| Literal meaning | Jacket and skirt | ||||||||||
| |||||||||||
| Korean name | |||||||||||
| Hangul | 유군 | ||||||||||
| Hanja | 襦裙 | ||||||||||
| |||||||||||
Ruqun (Chinese:襦裙) is a set oftraditional Han Chinese clothing which consists of a shortjacket typically calledrú (襦) worn under a long Chineseskirt calledqún (裙).[1] It has also become a general term to describehanfu which consists of a separated upper garment and a wrap-around lower skirt, replacing the generic termyīcháng (衣裳).[2][3]: 27 [4] In this sense,ruqun can include theshanqun (衫裙) andaoqun (袄裙;襖裙) in its definition.[5]: 48–50 [6]: 47–50, 54 [4][7]
Theruqun was worn by both men and women;[2][5]: 48–50 [6]: 47–50, 54 it was however primarily worn by women.[8] It is the traditionalHanfu for theHan Chinese women.[9] Theaoqun and/orruqun is the most basic set of clothing of Han Chinese women inChina and has been an established tradition for thousands of years.[6]: 47–50, 54 Various forms and style of Chinesetrousers, referred broadly under the generic termku, can also be worn under theruqun.

The generic termyīcháng (衣裳) can be applied to any style of clothing consisting of a pair of upper and lower garments. The termyichang is composed ofyī (衣; "upper garment") andcháng (裳; "lower garment").Cháng (裳) can refer to either the traditional skirt,qun, or the traditional trousers,ku/kun.[6]: 47–50, 54 The characteryi is also a generic word for "clothing".[10] Therefore, theruqun,aoqun,shanqun, as well as thewedding dress calledqungua, all belong to the category ofyichang as a broad term.
The termrúqún (襦裙) is composed of two Chinese characters:rú (襦; "jacket") andqún (裙; "skirt"); thusruqun can literally be translated as "jacket skirt". However,ruqun is a fluid term in both original texts and in secondary sources, as different regions may use different terms to describe the same clothing.[5]: 48–50 When used as a broad term,ruqun refers to a set of attire which consists of a separate upper garment and aqun skirt as a lower garment.[2] As a specific term,ruqun refer to a specific style of wearing a short upper garment calledrú (襦) under a long skirt calledqún (裙).[1] The wordruqun has also sometimes been used as a synonym for other clothing items such asshān (衫) andǎo (袄;襖).[5]: 48–50 [11] Theruqun can also be a short jacket with either short or long sleeves.[10] In addition, the termchangru (长襦; 'longru') also appear in texts and has been described as the precursor of the long jacketchang ao ("long jacket") by scholars.[5]: 48–50

The termǎoqún (袄裙;襖裙) typically refers to a specific way of wearing theao over the lower garment,qun.[1] The Chinese character襖 appears in aSui dynasty rime dictionary calledQieyun, published in 601 AD, and can be translated as "padded coat", but it can also refer to a lined upper garment.[12]: 52 TheXinhua Dictionary definesao as a general term referring to an "upper garment with multiple layers". As such, it is a thick piece of clothing worn mostly during cold seasons. Usually, theao is worn outside of the lower garment, which is often askirt, especially themamianqun.[13]

The termshānqún (衫裙), sometimes literally translated as "unlined upper garment and skirt" in English,[14]: 62 [15]: 62 is also type of clothing style where the upper garment calledshan is generally worn over the lower garment,qun. TheXinhua Dictionary definesshan as a general term referring to an "upper garment with a single layer". TheJin dynasty bookGujinzhu (古今注) states that women had been wearing one-piece clothing that has the upper and lower garments connected together since the time of theYellow Emperor, until theQin dynasty, whenshan was invented.
Historically, theshan comes in as varying styles, shapes and lengths, and is usually worn outside of the lower garment. However, there are also cases where theshan is worn under the lower garment, as during theJin dynasty.[13] A form ofshan which appeared in the Han and Wei period was a new type of gown which had equal front pieces which were straight, calledduijin, instead ofjiaoling collar and was fastened with a string; it was also a form of unlined upper garment with straight sleeves and wide cuffs.[16] Thisshan was worn by men and women and became popular as it was more convenient for wearing.[16]
In addition, the termshanqun is sometimes used interchangeably withruqun to refer to short upper garment worn on skirt.[7] The termshan can also refer to long garments.[11]
Of note of importance, the termyichang is not only used to describe the specific types ofHanfu, but also modern western clothing styles consisting of separate top and bottom garments as well.
In traditional Chinese culture, the symbolism of two-pieces garments hold great importance as it symbolizes the greater order of Heaven and Earth.[3]: 12 In theYi Jing (易經), upper garment represents Heaven (Qian) while the lower garment represents the Earth (Kun).[17] It is also why themianfu (and theyichang in theYi Jing) has a black upper garment and typically a red (or yellow[18]: 15 [19]) lower garment which symbolized the order between Heaven and earth and should never be confused.[20] According to theWuxing (五行), black symbolized the colour of the sky, which was dark before dawn,[18]: 15 while the colour yellow represented the earth.[19]
The order between Heaven and Earth can also translate into clothing length differences between men and women. For example, in 1537, in an attempt to reverse the trend in the late Ming when women clothing was gradually getting longer, Huo Tao, a Ming dynasty Minister of Rites, expressed:[5]: 51
Men's and women's styles differ in length. A woman's upper garment is level with her waist, her lower garment meets with the top: earth supports heaven. A man's upper garment covers his lower garments: heaven embraces earth. When a woman's [upper] garment covers her lower garments, there is confusion between male and female.
The silhouette ofyichang can also be made intoshàngjiǎn xiàfēng (上俭下丰; 'top is frugal', 'bottom is rich'),[21] which looks like an A-line silhouette. Theshangjian xiafeng was a trend in the Wei, Jin, Northern, Southern dynasties.[22][23] However, during the Ming dynasty,shangjian xiafeng silhouette created with the use ofmaweiqun reflected an inversion of "Heaven and Earth order".[21] TheShuyuan zaji (椒园杂记) refers to themaweiqun as beingfuyao (服妖); themaweiqun was eventually banned in the earlyHongzhi era (1487–1505) according toLu Rong.[24]
Fuyao is a general term with negative connotation which is employed for what is considered as being strange clothing style,[25] or for deviant dressing styles,[26] or for aberrance in clothing.[26] Clothing which was consideredfuyao typically (i) violated ritual norms and clothing regulations, (ii) were extravagant and luxurious form of clothing, (iii) violated the yin and yang principle, and (iv) were strange and inauspicious form of clothing.[25]
As a set of attired consisting of an upper garment and a skirt; theruqun is the eldest type ofhanfu.[27] According to the chapterXi Ci Xia《系辞下》 of theYi Jing, the {ruqun was worn inThree Sovereigns and Five Emperors period by the legendaryYellow Emperor,Emperor Shun, andEmperor Yao who wore it in the form of theyichang (衣裳):[28]
Hence it was that these (sovereigns) were helped by Heaven; they had good fortune, and their every movement was advantageous. Huang Di, Yao, and Shun (simply) wore their [yichang (衣裳)] (as patterns to the people), and good order was secured all under heaven.

InShang dynasty, the basic form ofhanfu was established as the combination of a separate upper and lower garment worn together;[27][18]: 15 which was known asyichang (衣裳).[6]: 47–50, 54 [29] In this period, theyichang was a unisex set of attire.[30]: 14–22 Theyichang consisted of a narrow, ankle lengthskirt calledchang (裳) and the upper garment calledyi (衣), in shape of a knee-length tunic with narrow cuffs; theyi was tied with a sash[31][30]: 14–22 and could bejiaoling youren.[29] Theyichang as a set of attire featured the wearing ofyi over thechang.[30]: 22
TheZhou dynasty, people continued to wear theyichang. Theyichang was similar to the one worn in the Shang dynasty period; however the Zhou-dynasty styleyichang was slightly looser and the sleeves could either be broad or narrow.[32] Theyi wasjiaoling youren and a sash was used around the waist to tie it closed.[32] The length of thechang, could also vary from knee to ground length.[32] In theWestern Zhou dynasty, it was popular to wearruqun as a set of attire consisting of a jacket and skirt.[33]: 139 [34]
Theruqun as a set of attire was also worn by men and women during theWarring States period.[35]: 4 Elites women in the Warring States period also wore a blouse or a jacket, which was fastened to the right to form a V-shaped collar and was waist-length, along with a long full skirt.[12]: 51 The women's blouse tended to have relatively straight and narrow sleeves.[12]: 51 During the Warring States period and the Spring and Autumn period, the clothing known asshenyi, which combined the upper and lower garment into a one-piece robe was also developed.
Even though the clothing of the Warring states period were old, they continued to be worn in Qin and Han dynasties, this included the wearing of cross-collared blouse and skirts.[12]: 51
Theruqun as a set of attire was worn by both elite and ordinary women.[12]: 51 Ordinary women during the Han dynasty wore theruqun with the jacket being covered by thequn, which came in various colours throughout the year.[35]: 4 Ordinary women wore plainer form ofruqun; the skirts were typically plain but the sash which was worn around the waist was decorated.[12]: 51
During the Qin and Han dynasties, women wore skirts which was composed of four pieces cloth sewn together; a belt was often attached to the skirt, but the use of a separate belt was sometimes used by women.[36] The popularity of the jacket and skirt combination briefly declined after the fall of theEastern Han dynasty, but returned into fashion in theJin andNorthern Wei dynasties and continued to be worn until theQing dynasty.[12]: 51
During theWei,Jin,Southern and Northern dynasties, both theruqun and theshanqun co-existed. Theruqun was popular among women during theWei,Jin,Southern and Northern dynasties.[37][38]: 312–313 In the early Six dynasties period, women wore a style ofruqun composed of ajiaoling yourenru and a longqun. The jacket worn by commoner women was longer than commoner's men.[38]: 312–313
Elite women in the Wei and Jin dynasty wore the combination of wide-cuffed, V-shaped, unlined blouse which was made of pattern fabric and was lined at the neck with a decorative strip of cloth, a long skirt which came in different styles, and apron.[12]: 52 However, in the early Six dynasties, most ordinary men did not wearruqun anymore; men, instead wore a set of attire referred asshanku consisting ofku, trousers, under their cross-collared jacket (i.e. ).[38]: 321–323 The men's jacket were either hip-length or knee-length.[38]: 321–323 The jackets can be tied with a belt or with other forms of closure.[38]: 321–323
Theshàngjiǎn xiàfēng (上俭下丰; 'top is frugal', 'bottom is rich') (similar to A-line silhouette) style was also a trend in the Wei, Jin, Northern, Southern dynasties, where skirts large and loose giving an elegant and unrestrained effect.[22][23]
During theWei andJin dynasties, women also wore theshanqun, which consisted of a longqun and ashan, an unlined upper garment.[14]: 62 [15]: 62 Theshanqun found in this period were typically large and loose; theshan had aduijin front and was tied at the waist.[14]: 62 [15]: 62 Awéicháng (围裳;圍裳), which looked similar to anapron, was tied between theshan andqun in order to fasten the waist.[14]: 62 [15]: 62 Styles ofshanqun can be found in theDunhuang murals where they are worn by the benefactors, in the pottery figurines unearthed inLuoyang, and in the paintings ofGu Kaizhi.[14]: 62
AtLuoyang during theNorthern Wei dynasty, several variety of clothing styles found on female tomb figures were largely derived from the traditionalruqun-style set of attire.[38]: 321–323 One style ofruqun was the combination of short jacket (usually belted and tied at the front of the jacket) with wide sleeves which falls to the knee or below knee level with a very high waist, pleated and multicoloured long skirt.[38]: 321–323 Based on a female tomb figure dating from theEastern Wei, this form ofruqun is jacket worn over skirt.[38]: 321–323
A popular form ofruqun was the jacket worn under skirt.[38]: 321–323 Theqixiong ruqun-style also first appeared in theNorthern and Southern dynasties.[39]
In theSui dynasty, ordinary men did not wear skirts anymore.[40] In the late sixth century, women's skirts in the Sui dynasty were characterized with high waistline; this kind of high waistline skirt created a silhouette which looked similar to theEmpire dresses ofNapoleonic France; however, the construction of the assemble differed from the ones worn in Western countries asHan Chinese women assemble consisted of a separate skirt and upper garment which show low décolletage.[41] This trend continued in the early decades of theTang dynasty when women continued the tend of the Sui and would also wear long, high-waist skirts, low-cut upper garment.[41]
During the Sui and Tang dynasty, women wore the traditionalruqun in theqixiong ruqun-style, where the skirts were tied higher and higher up the waist, until they were eventually tied above the breasts and where short upper garment was worn.[3]: 1 [35]: 5
In addition to the classicaljiaolingru orshan (crossed collar upper garments),duijinshan (parallel/straight collar upper garments) were also worn in this period, thus exposing the cleavage of the breasts. Some Tang dynasty women skirts had accordion pleats.[42] Red coloured skirts were popular.[35]: 5 There was also a skirt called "Pomegranate skirt" for its red colour, and another skirt called "Turmeric skirt" for its yellow colour.[42]
By the Mid-Tang period (around the 8th century), the low cleavage upper garment fell out of fashion; the female beauty ideology changed favouring plump and voluptuous beauty.[41]
Women continued to wear the Tang dynasty's fashion of wearing the upper garment and skirts tied around their breasts until theSong dynasty.[43] In theSong dynasty, the women's skirts were also lowered from the breast level back to the normal waistline.[43] Pleated skirts were introduced and became the main feature of the upper-class women.[35]: 5 Song-styleruqun for women consisted of long narrow skirts and jackets which closed to the right.[44] These jackets could be worn over the narrow skirts; this form ofruqun existed in both the Liao dynasty and Song.[44] Cross-collared jackets with narrow sleeves could also be worn under a waist-length skirt or under high-waist skirt.[45]: 9, 11, 14–16
InLiao dynasty, the Song-style and the Tang-style clothing (including theqixiong ruqun) coexisted together; both Khitan women and Han Chinese women in the Liao wore the Han Chinese style Tang-Song dress.[46]: 74–75 [44] Tang-Song style clothing women clothing in Liao also included a long-sleeved, outer jacket with ample sleeves which could cropped or waist-length, was tied with sash in a bow below the breasts to create anempire silhouette.[46]: 74–75 The outer jacket could also be worn over floor-length dress which was worn ayaoqun, a short over-skirt which looked like an apron, on top.[46]: 74–75 In Northern Liao mural tomb depictions, women who are dressed in Han style clothing are depicted in Tang dynasty fashion whereas in the Southern Liao murals, women dressed in Han style clothing are wearing Song-style clothing.[44]
In theYuan dynasty, theMongols never imposed Mongol customs on theethnic Han,[47] and they did not force the Han Chinese to wear Mongol clothing.[46]: 84–86 Many Han Chinese and other ethnicity readily adopted Mongol clothing in Northern China to show their allegiance to the Yuan rulers; however, in Southern China, Mongol clothing was rarely seen as both men and women continued to dress in Song-style garments.[48]: 82–83 [46]: 84–86 Tang-Song style clothing also continued to be worn in multiple layers by families who showed that they were resisting the rule of the Mongols.[46]: 84–86 The Song style dress also continued to persist among the southern elites of the Yuan dynasty and evidence of Song-style clothing was also found in the unearthed tombs in southern China.[46]: 84–86
The casual clothing for men mainly followed the dress code of the Han people and they worebanbi as a casual clothing item while ordinary women clothing consisted ofbanbi andruqun.[49]
Chinese women also wore cross-collar upper garment which had elbow length sleeves (i.e. cross-collarbanbi) over a long-sleeved blouse under a skirt; the abbreviated wrap skirts were also popular in Yuan.[45]: 19–20 Women jackets closing to the right and closing to the left coexisted in the Yuan dynasty. It was also common for Chinese women in the Yuan dynasty to close their clothing to the left side (instead of the right side).[50]
The way of wearing short-length cross-collar upper garment over long narrow skirt was also a Song-style fashion.[44] Long cross-collar upper garment (about the knee-length) over a long skirt could also be worn by Chinese elite women.[45]: 19–20 Theaoqun consisting ofjia ao (夹袄), a lined jacket, and a long-lengthqun was worn by the Han Chinese women aswinter clothing; typically thejia ao would be worn over the skirt.[51]

In terms of appearance, theMing dynastyruqun (i.e. the short jacket and skirt) was similar to theSong dynasty'sruqun.[42] Compared to theruqun worn in theTang dynasty, the Ming dynastyruqun was more gentle and elegant in style; it was also less lavish and yet less rigid and strict as theruqun worn in the Song dynasty.[3]: 42 One difference from theSong dynastyruqun is the addition of a small short waist skirt which was worn by young maidservants; it is assumed that it was worn as an apron to protect the long skirt under it.[3]: 42 The short overskirt was calledyaoqun.[5]: 48–50 Moreover, following the Yuan dynasty, the style of closing the jacket to the left in women's clothing persisted in some geographical areas of the Ming dynasty, or for at least Chinese women who lived in the province ofShanxi.[50] Ming dynasty portrait paintings showing Chinese women dressing in left lapel jackets appeared to be characteristic of ancestral portraits from the province of Shanxi and most likely in the areas neighbouring the province.[50]
By the Ming dynasty, theruqun became the most common form of attire for women. The sleeves of the blouse were mostly curved with a narrow sleeve cuff in a style known aspipaxiu (琵琶袖; 'pipa sleeve'). The collar was of the same colour as the clothing. Often, there was an optional detachable protectivehuling (護領; 'protect collar') sewn to the collar. Thehuling can be white or any dark colour, and is used to protect the collar from being rotten by sweat, therefore to extend the life of the clothing. Towards the start of theQing dynasty, the skirt was mostlybaizhequn (百摺裙; 'hundred pleat skirt') ormamianqun.[dubious –discuss]
By the late Ming dynasty, theaoqun (jacket over skirt) became more prevalent than theruqun (short jacket under skirt); and the ao became longer in length.[5]: 48–50 By the late Ming dynasty, jackets withhigh collars started to appear.[5]: 93–94 The stand-up collar were closed with interlocking buttons made of gold and silver,[53] calledzimukou (子母扣).[54] The appearance of interlocking buckle promoted the emergence and the popularity of thestand-up collar and the Chinese jacket with buttons at the front, and laid the foundation of the use ofChinese knot buckles.[53] In women garments of the Ming dynasty, the stand-up collar with gold and silver interlocking buckles became one of the most distinctive and popular form of clothing structure; it became commonly used in women's clothing reflecting the conservative concept of Ming women's chastity by keeping their bodies covered and due to the climate changes during the Ming dynasty (i.e. the average temperature was low in China).[53]
During theQing dynasty, the aoqun was the most prominent clothing ofHan Chinese women.[5]: 48–50 [55] The ruqun (i.e. short jacket under skirt) continued to be worn in early Qing dynasty,[4] but the later Qing dynasty depictions of ruqun in arts were mostly based on earlier paintings rather than the lived clothing worn by women in this period.[5]: 48–50
In the late Qing, women wore the long jacketao with the skirt.[56] It was fashionable to wear theao (袄) with thebaizhequn (百摺裙) and themamianqun.[4] The ao in the Qing dynasty has a front centre closure and then curves crossover to the right before secured with frog buttons.[5]: 48–50 The front closing, collar, hem, and sleeves cuff have edging of contrasting pipings and side slits.[5]: 48–50 The skirts have a flat front and back panels with knife-pleated sides.[5]: 48–50 In Qing, the high collar continued to be used but it was not a common feature in clothing before the 20th century.[5]: 93–94 In the late Qing, the high collar become more popular and was integrated to the jacket and robe of the Chinese and the Manchu becoming a regular garment feature instead of an occasional feature.[5]: 93–94 The high collar remained a defining feature of their jacket even in the first few years of the republic.[5]: 93–94
For the Han Chinese women, the stand-up collar became a defining feature of their long jacket; this long jacket with high collar could be worn over theirtrousers (shanku) but also over their skirts.[5]: 93–94 InThe Chinese and Japanese repository published in 1863 byJames Summers, Summers described Chinese women wearing a knee-length upper garment which fits closely at the neck; they wore it together with loose trousers with border around the ankles under askirt, which opens at the front and has large plaits over the hips. Summers also observed that the sleeves of the women's garment are generally long enough to conceal the hands in cold weather; the sleeves were sometimes very wide and were decorated beautifully with embroidered satin lining which would be turned back to form a border.[57]: 40 InMesny's Chinese Miscellany written in 1897 by William Mesny, it was observed that skirts were worn by Chinese women over their trousers in some regions of China, but that in most areas, skirts were only used when women would go out for paying visits.[58]: 371 He also observed that the wearing of trousers was a national custom for Chinese women and that trousers were worn in their homes when they would do house chores.[58]: 371 Mesny also observed that men (especially farmers, working men and soldiers) around Shanghai also wore skirts in winter.[58]: 371
Another form of ruqun worn in that period is calledqungua (裙褂), which is composed ofgua (褂; "a jacket with central button closure") worn with aqun (裙) skirt.[59] Thegua jacket was a popular form of jacket in Qing and was worn as a summer jacket instead of theao which was usually worn in winter.[4] Thequngua also referred to one style of Qing dynasty wedding dress.[59]
In the early 1910s and 1920s, young women woreaoqun calledWenming xinzhuang (文明新裝), also known as the "civilized costume" or "civilized attire".[6]: 47–50, 54 [60][61][62] It originated from the traditionalyishang (衣裳) and the basic style of this clothing is clearly inherited from ancientHan Chinese clothing although the details have changed over time.[6]: 47–50, 54 TheWenming xinzhuang continued the unbroken tradition of Han Chinese women's matching a jacket with a skirt which has been established for thousand of years.[6]: 47–50, 54
Theao of theWenming xinzhuang was typically cyan and blue in colour while the long skirt was dark in colour, mostly in black; theao had no complex ornaments as bindings and embroidery was rejected in this period.[6]: 47–50, 54 There was a narrow trim which would bind the hem and the side vents were rectangular in shape.[6]: 47–50, 54 Theao typically had a standing collar and long in shape with its hemline typically reaching below hip height and sometimes even at knee-height.[6]: 47–50, 54 The sleeves were short and left the wrist exposed.[6]: 47–50, 54 The skirt was derived from thebaizhequn (百摺裙) and became a dark long skirt with larger pleats.[6]: 47–50, 54 With time, the skirt length eventually shortened to the point where the calves of the wearer was exposed, and theao had a lower collar and an arc shaped vents started to appear on both sides.[6]: 47–50, 54 This style of clothing eventually faded in the early 1930s.[6]: 47–50, 54
In the 21st century, several forms of ruqun, whose design are often based on the previous dynasties traditional ruqun but with modern aesthetics, gained popularity following theHanfu movement.[63][64]
As a set of garments, the ruqun consists of an upper and lower garment.
The ruqun can be categorized into types based on the waist height of the skirt:
The ruqun can also be categorized based on the collar style. The collar style of the upper garment can be divided into:
| Component | Romanization | Hanzi | Definition |
|---|---|---|---|
| Upper garment | Yi | 衣 | Open cross-collar upper garment, or refers to any form upper garment.[29] It is unisex.[9] |
| Ru | 襦 | Open cross-collar upper garment,[32] only worn by women. It typically refers to a short jacket.[5]: 48–50 [3]: 27 It is usually waist-length, but longer forms ofru can also be found.[5]: 48–50 Theru can be single-layered or multi-layered (i.e. double layered or padded).[65][3]: 27 | |
| Changru | 长襦 | A longru jacket; the precursor of the longao.[5]: 48–50 | |
| Ao | 袄 | Multi-layer open cross-collar shirt or jacket.[29] It was mainly worn as winter clothing.[29][4] | |
| Shan | 衫 | Lit. translated as "shirt".[38]: 325 Single-layer open cross-collar shirt or jacket.[65][32] It can also be worn over theyi (衣).[32] | |
| Changao | 長襖 | A longer version of the ao | |
| Gua | 褂 | A jacket with a central closure which closes with buttons.[59] They appeared to be made of thinner fabric than theao and was worn in summer.[4] It was worn as a female wedding jacket.[59] | |
| Lower garment | Chang/shang | 裳 | Skirt for men,[32] or may refers to any form of lower garment including skirts andtrousers.[6]: 47–50, 54 In the Shang dynasty, the chang could also refer to an ankle-length skirt which was a unisex garment. |
| Qun | 裙 | Skirt for women.[32] |
Throughout history, Han Chinese women wore many kind of skirts which came in variety of styles; some of which had their own specific names.
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