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Ruqun

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Hanfu set of attire

Ruqun
A Chinese lady wearing anaoqun, a style ofruqun popular among Chinese women during theMing dynasty.
Chinese name
Traditional Chinese襦裙
Simplified Chinese襦裙
Literal meaningJacket and skirt
Transcriptions
Standard Mandarin
Hanyu Pinyinrúqún
Yue: Cantonese
Jyutpingjyu4 kwan4
Korean name
Hangul유군
Hanja襦裙
Transcriptions
Revised Romanizationyugun

Ruqun (Chinese:襦裙) is a set oftraditional Han Chinese clothing which consists of a shortjacket typically called () worn under a long Chineseskirt calledqún ().[1] It has also become a general term to describehanfu which consists of a separated upper garment and a wrap-around lower skirt, replacing the generic termyīcháng (衣裳).[2][3]: 27 [4] In this sense,ruqun can include theshanqun (衫裙) andaoqun (袄裙;襖裙) in its definition.[5]: 48–50 [6]: 47–50, 54 [4][7]

Theruqun was worn by both men and women;[2][5]: 48–50 [6]: 47–50, 54  it was however primarily worn by women.[8] It is the traditionalHanfu for theHan Chinese women.[9] Theaoqun and/orruqun is the most basic set of clothing of Han Chinese women inChina and has been an established tradition for thousands of years.[6]: 47–50, 54  Various forms and style of Chinesetrousers, referred broadly under the generic termku, can also be worn under theruqun.

Terminology

[edit]
See also:Ru (upper garment),Garment collars in Hanfu, andQun
Illustration ofqingyiqun (青衣裙) from theGujin Tushu Jicheng, Qing dynasty.

The generic termyīcháng (衣裳) can be applied to any style of clothing consisting of a pair of upper and lower garments. The termyichang is composed of (; "upper garment") andcháng (; "lower garment").Cháng () can refer to either the traditional skirt,qun, or the traditional trousers,ku/kun.[6]: 47–50, 54  The characteryi is also a generic word for "clothing".[10] Therefore, theruqun,aoqun,shanqun, as well as thewedding dress calledqungua, all belong to the category ofyichang as a broad term.

The termrúqún (襦裙) is composed of two Chinese characters: (; "jacket") andqún (; "skirt"); thusruqun can literally be translated as "jacket skirt". However,ruqun is a fluid term in both original texts and in secondary sources, as different regions may use different terms to describe the same clothing.[5]: 48–50  When used as a broad term,ruqun refers to a set of attire which consists of a separate upper garment and aqun skirt as a lower garment.[2] As a specific term,ruqun refer to a specific style of wearing a short upper garment called () under a long skirt calledqún ().[1] The wordruqun has also sometimes been used as a synonym for other clothing items such asshān () andǎo (;).[5]: 48–50 [11] Theruqun can also be a short jacket with either short or long sleeves.[10] In addition, the termchangru (长襦; 'longru') also appear in texts and has been described as the precursor of the long jacketchang ao ("long jacket") by scholars.[5]: 48–50 

Modern illustration of two traditional forms ofruqun (襦裙), a type of Han Chinese clothing worn primarily by women.

The termǎoqún (袄裙;襖裙) typically refers to a specific way of wearing theao over the lower garment,qun.[1] The Chinese character appears in aSui dynasty rime dictionary calledQieyun, published in 601 AD, and can be translated as "padded coat", but it can also refer to a lined upper garment.[12]: 52  TheXinhua Dictionary definesao as a general term referring to an "upper garment with multiple layers". As such, it is a thick piece of clothing worn mostly during cold seasons. Usually, theao is worn outside of the lower garment, which is often askirt, especially themamianqun.[13]

Illustration of ashān () from theGujin Tushu Jicheng, Qing dynasty.

The termshānqún (衫裙), sometimes literally translated as "unlined upper garment and skirt" in English,[14]: 62 [15]: 62  is also type of clothing style where the upper garment calledshan is generally worn over the lower garment,qun. TheXinhua Dictionary definesshan as a general term referring to an "upper garment with a single layer". TheJin dynasty bookGujinzhu (古今注) states that women had been wearing one-piece clothing that has the upper and lower garments connected together since the time of theYellow Emperor, until theQin dynasty, whenshan was invented.

Historically, theshan comes in as varying styles, shapes and lengths, and is usually worn outside of the lower garment. However, there are also cases where theshan is worn under the lower garment, as during theJin dynasty.[13] A form ofshan which appeared in the Han and Wei period was a new type of gown which had equal front pieces which were straight, calledduijin, instead ofjiaoling collar and was fastened with a string; it was also a form of unlined upper garment with straight sleeves and wide cuffs.[16] Thisshan was worn by men and women and became popular as it was more convenient for wearing.[16]

In addition, the termshanqun is sometimes used interchangeably withruqun to refer to short upper garment worn on skirt.[7] The termshan can also refer to long garments.[11]

Of note of importance, the termyichang is not only used to describe the specific types ofHanfu, but also modern western clothing styles consisting of separate top and bottom garments as well.

Cultural significance

[edit]

Heaven and Earth symbolism

[edit]

In traditional Chinese culture, the symbolism of two-pieces garments hold great importance as it symbolizes the greater order of Heaven and Earth.[3]: 12  In theYi Jing (易經), upper garment represents Heaven (Qian) while the lower garment represents the Earth (Kun).[17] It is also why themianfu (and theyichang in theYi Jing) has a black upper garment and typically a red (or yellow[18]: 15 [19]) lower garment which symbolized the order between Heaven and earth and should never be confused.[20] According to theWuxing (五行), black symbolized the colour of the sky, which was dark before dawn,[18]: 15  while the colour yellow represented the earth.[19]

The order between Heaven and Earth can also translate into clothing length differences between men and women. For example, in 1537, in an attempt to reverse the trend in the late Ming when women clothing was gradually getting longer, Huo Tao, a Ming dynasty Minister of Rites, expressed:[5]: 51 

Men's and women's styles differ in length. A woman's upper garment is level with her waist, her lower garment meets with the top: earth supports heaven. A man's upper garment covers his lower garments: heaven embraces earth. When a woman's [upper] garment covers her lower garments, there is confusion between male and female.

Shangjian xiafeng

[edit]

The silhouette ofyichang can also be made intoshàngjiǎn xiàfēng (上俭下丰; 'top is frugal', 'bottom is rich'),[21] which looks like an A-line silhouette. Theshangjian xiafeng was a trend in the Wei, Jin, Northern, Southern dynasties.[22][23] However, during the Ming dynasty,shangjian xiafeng silhouette created with the use ofmaweiqun reflected an inversion of "Heaven and Earth order".[21] TheShuyuan zaji (椒园杂记) refers to themaweiqun as beingfuyao (服妖); themaweiqun was eventually banned in the earlyHongzhi era (1487–1505) according toLu Rong.[24]

Fuyao is a general term with negative connotation which is employed for what is considered as being strange clothing style,[25] or for deviant dressing styles,[26] or for aberrance in clothing.[26] Clothing which was consideredfuyao typically (i) violated ritual norms and clothing regulations, (ii) were extravagant and luxurious form of clothing, (iii) violated the yin and yang principle, and (iv) were strange and inauspicious form of clothing.[25]

History

[edit]
From left to right:Huangdi,Emperor Yao, andEmperor Shun, all wearing a yichang, mural painting, Han dynasty.

As a set of attired consisting of an upper garment and a skirt; theruqun is the eldest type ofhanfu.[27] According to the chapterXi Ci Xia系辞下》 of theYi Jing, the {ruqun was worn inThree Sovereigns and Five Emperors period by the legendaryYellow Emperor,Emperor Shun, andEmperor Yao who wore it in the form of theyichang (衣裳):[28]

Hence it was that these (sovereigns) were helped by Heaven; they had good fortune, and their every movement was advantageous. Huang Di, Yao, and Shun (simply) wore their [yichang (衣裳)] (as patterns to the people), and good order was secured all under heaven.

Shang dynasty

[edit]
A standing dignitary wearingyichang with abixi, Shang dynasty.

InShang dynasty, the basic form ofhanfu was established as the combination of a separate upper and lower garment worn together;[27][18]: 15  which was known asyichang (衣裳).[6]: 47–50, 54 [29] In this period, theyichang was a unisex set of attire.[30]: 14–22  Theyichang consisted of a narrow, ankle lengthskirt calledchang () and the upper garment calledyi (), in shape of a knee-length tunic with narrow cuffs; theyi was tied with a sash[31][30]: 14–22  and could bejiaoling youren.[29] Theyichang as a set of attire featured the wearing ofyi over thechang.[30]: 22 

Zhou dynasty

[edit]

TheZhou dynasty, people continued to wear theyichang. Theyichang was similar to the one worn in the Shang dynasty period; however the Zhou-dynasty styleyichang was slightly looser and the sleeves could either be broad or narrow.[32] Theyi wasjiaoling youren and a sash was used around the waist to tie it closed.[32] The length of thechang, could also vary from knee to ground length.[32] In theWestern Zhou dynasty, it was popular to wearruqun as a set of attire consisting of a jacket and skirt.[33]: 139 [34]

Spring and Autumn period, and Warring States period

[edit]
Man wearing shanqun (or ruqun) featured in the bronze armed warrior holding up chime bells.
Pair of shamans or attendants, Chu culture, Warring States period, 4th-3rd century BC, Portland Art Museum, Oregon.

Theruqun as a set of attire was also worn by men and women during theWarring States period.[35]: 4  Elites women in the Warring States period also wore a blouse or a jacket, which was fastened to the right to form a V-shaped collar and was waist-length, along with a long full skirt.[12]: 51  The women's blouse tended to have relatively straight and narrow sleeves.[12]: 51  During the Warring States period and the Spring and Autumn period, the clothing known asshenyi, which combined the upper and lower garment into a one-piece robe was also developed.

Qin and Han dynasty

[edit]

Even though the clothing of the Warring states period were old, they continued to be worn in Qin and Han dynasties, this included the wearing of cross-collared blouse and skirts.[12]: 51 

Theruqun as a set of attire was worn by both elite and ordinary women.[12]: 51  Ordinary women during the Han dynasty wore theruqun with the jacket being covered by thequn, which came in various colours throughout the year.[35]: 4  Ordinary women wore plainer form ofruqun; the skirts were typically plain but the sash which was worn around the waist was decorated.[12]: 51 

During the Qin and Han dynasties, women wore skirts which was composed of four pieces cloth sewn together; a belt was often attached to the skirt, but the use of a separate belt was sometimes used by women.[36] The popularity of the jacket and skirt combination briefly declined after the fall of theEastern Han dynasty, but returned into fashion in theJin andNorthern Wei dynasties and continued to be worn until theQing dynasty.[12]: 51 

  • A noble lady figure, Western Han dynasty, 206 B.C.-A.D. 25.
    A noble lady figure, Western Han dynasty, 206 B.C.-A.D. 25.
  • A Han dynasty painting illustrates women wearing ruqun, with blouses tucked into skirts
    A Han dynasty painting illustrates women wearingruqun, with blouses tucked into skirts
  • A woman in ruqun, i.e. a black cross-collar upper garment tucked inside a red skirt, Dahuting Eastern Han Tombs Mural.
    A woman in ruqun, i.e. a black cross-collar upper garment tucked inside a red skirt, Dahuting Eastern Han Tombs Mural.

Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties

[edit]
See also:Qixiong ruqun

During theWei,Jin,Southern and Northern dynasties, both theruqun and theshanqun co-existed. Theruqun was popular among women during theWei,Jin,Southern and Northern dynasties.[37][38]: 312–313  In the early Six dynasties period, women wore a style ofruqun composed of ajiaoling yourenru and a longqun. The jacket worn by commoner women was longer than commoner's men.[38]: 312–313 

Women wearing jiaoling ruqun, Three Kingdom period, earlySix dynasties period

Elite women in the Wei and Jin dynasty wore the combination of wide-cuffed, V-shaped, unlined blouse which was made of pattern fabric and was lined at the neck with a decorative strip of cloth, a long skirt which came in different styles, and apron.[12]: 52  However, in the early Six dynasties, most ordinary men did not wearruqun anymore; men, instead wore a set of attire referred asshanku consisting ofku, trousers, under their cross-collared jacket (i.e. ).[38]: 321–323  The men's jacket were either hip-length or knee-length.[38]: 321–323  The jackets can be tied with a belt or with other forms of closure.[38]: 321–323 

Theshàngjiǎn xiàfēng (上俭下丰; 'top is frugal', 'bottom is rich') (similar to A-line silhouette) style was also a trend in the Wei, Jin, Northern, Southern dynasties, where skirts large and loose giving an elegant and unrestrained effect.[22][23]

a
b
c
d
From left to right: a) unearthed artifacts of ruqun, Former Qin; jiaoling youren ruqun in the shangjian xiafeng-style: b)Western Jin period (266–316), c) Northern Liang,Sixteen Kingdoms and d)Northern Wei

During theWei andJin dynasties, women also wore theshanqun, which consisted of a longqun and ashan, an unlined upper garment.[14]: 62 [15]: 62  Theshanqun found in this period were typically large and loose; theshan had aduijin front and was tied at the waist.[14]: 62 [15]: 62  Awéicháng (围裳;圍裳), which looked similar to anapron, was tied between theshan andqun in order to fasten the waist.[14]: 62 [15]: 62  Styles ofshanqun can be found in theDunhuang murals where they are worn by the benefactors, in the pottery figurines unearthed inLuoyang, and in the paintings ofGu Kaizhi.[14]: 62 

a)
b)
c)
Styles of shanqun: a) shanqun worn like a jiaoling youren yi with less overlap and worn with a weichang, Northern Qi b) shanqun withbanbi, Southern dynasties, c) duijin shanqun with shan worn over qun, Southern dynasties
a)
b)
c)
d)
Different styles of ruqun in the Northern and Southern dynasty period a) Qixiong ruqun-style of the Northern dynasties; b) ruqun, Northern dynasties; c) jiaolingruqun with ru under skirt,Northern Qi; d) Ruqun with ru over skirt, Northern Qi

AtLuoyang during theNorthern Wei dynasty, several variety of clothing styles found on female tomb figures were largely derived from the traditionalruqun-style set of attire.[38]: 321–323  One style ofruqun was the combination of short jacket (usually belted and tied at the front of the jacket) with wide sleeves which falls to the knee or below knee level with a very high waist, pleated and multicoloured long skirt.[38]: 321–323  Based on a female tomb figure dating from theEastern Wei, this form ofruqun is jacket worn over skirt.[38]: 321–323 

A popular form ofruqun was the jacket worn under skirt.[38]: 321–323  Theqixiong ruqun-style also first appeared in theNorthern and Southern dynasties.[39]

Sui and Tang dynasties

[edit]
Main articles:Qixiong ruqun andTanling ruqun

In theSui dynasty, ordinary men did not wear skirts anymore.[40] In the late sixth century, women's skirts in the Sui dynasty were characterized with high waistline; this kind of high waistline skirt created a silhouette which looked similar to theEmpire dresses ofNapoleonic France; however, the construction of the assemble differed from the ones worn in Western countries asHan Chinese women assemble consisted of a separate skirt and upper garment which show low décolletage.[41] This trend continued in the early decades of theTang dynasty when women continued the tend of the Sui and would also wear long, high-waist skirts, low-cut upper garment.[41]

During the Sui and Tang dynasty, women wore the traditionalruqun in theqixiong ruqun-style, where the skirts were tied higher and higher up the waist, until they were eventually tied above the breasts and where short upper garment was worn.[3]: 1 [35]: 5 

In addition to the classicaljiaolingru orshan (crossed collar upper garments),duijinshan (parallel/straight collar upper garments) were also worn in this period, thus exposing the cleavage of the breasts. Some Tang dynasty women skirts had accordion pleats.[42] Red coloured skirts were popular.[35]: 5  There was also a skirt called "Pomegranate skirt" for its red colour, and another skirt called "Turmeric skirt" for its yellow colour.[42]

By the Mid-Tang period (around the 8th century), the low cleavage upper garment fell out of fashion; the female beauty ideology changed favouring plump and voluptuous beauty.[41]

  • Woman in qixiong ruqun, Sui dynasty.
    Woman inqixiong ruqun, Sui dynasty.
  • A Tang dynasty painting illustrates women wearing ruqun, with skirts tied above the breasts and short parallel-collar blouses
    A Tang dynasty painting illustrates women wearingruqun, with skirts tied above the breasts and short parallel-collar blouses
  • Another Tang dynasty painting illustrating ruqun
    Another Tang dynasty painting illustratingruqun
  • A Tang dynasty palace concert wearing ruqun
    A Tang dynasty palace concert wearingruqun

Song and Liao dynasties

[edit]

Song dynasty

[edit]

Women continued to wear the Tang dynasty's fashion of wearing the upper garment and skirts tied around their breasts until theSong dynasty.[43] In theSong dynasty, the women's skirts were also lowered from the breast level back to the normal waistline.[43] Pleated skirts were introduced and became the main feature of the upper-class women.[35]: 5  Song-styleruqun for women consisted of long narrow skirts and jackets which closed to the right.[44] These jackets could be worn over the narrow skirts; this form ofruqun existed in both the Liao dynasty and Song.[44] Cross-collared jackets with narrow sleeves could also be worn under a waist-length skirt or under high-waist skirt.[45]: 9, 11, 14–16 

  • Commoner women wearing ruqun, Song dynasty.
    Commoner women wearing ruqun, Song dynasty.
  • Sculpture of maids wearing ruqun, Song dynasty.
    Sculpture of maids wearing ruqun, Song dynasty.

Liao dynasty

[edit]
Main article:Fashion in the Yuan dynasty

InLiao dynasty, the Song-style and the Tang-style clothing (including theqixiong ruqun) coexisted together; both Khitan women and Han Chinese women in the Liao wore the Han Chinese style Tang-Song dress.[46]: 74–75 [44] Tang-Song style clothing women clothing in Liao also included a long-sleeved, outer jacket with ample sleeves which could cropped or waist-length, was tied with sash in a bow below the breasts to create anempire silhouette.[46]: 74–75  The outer jacket could also be worn over floor-length dress which was worn ayaoqun, a short over-skirt which looked like an apron, on top.[46]: 74–75  In Northern Liao mural tomb depictions, women who are dressed in Han style clothing are depicted in Tang dynasty fashion whereas in the Southern Liao murals, women dressed in Han style clothing are wearing Song-style clothing.[44]

  • Women possibly wearing shanqun (upper garment over skirt) and beizi (Song-style clothing), inner chamber of the Tomb of Zhang Kuangzheng, Liao dynasty.
    Women possibly wearing shanqun (upper garment over skirt) andbeizi (Song-style clothing), inner chamber of the Tomb of Zhang Kuangzheng, Liao dynasty.
  • Khitan women wearing Tang-style clothing; Baoshan tomb No.2 wall-painting of Liao dynasty.
    Khitan women wearing Tang-style clothing; Baoshan tomb No.2 wall-painting ofLiao dynasty.
  • Khitan women wearing Song style ruqun.

Yuan dynasty

[edit]
Main article:Fashion in the Yuan dynasty

In theYuan dynasty, theMongols never imposed Mongol customs on theethnic Han,[47] and they did not force the Han Chinese to wear Mongol clothing.[46]: 84–86  Many Han Chinese and other ethnicity readily adopted Mongol clothing in Northern China to show their allegiance to the Yuan rulers; however, in Southern China, Mongol clothing was rarely seen as both men and women continued to dress in Song-style garments.[48]: 82–83 [46]: 84–86  Tang-Song style clothing also continued to be worn in multiple layers by families who showed that they were resisting the rule of the Mongols.[46]: 84–86  The Song style dress also continued to persist among the southern elites of the Yuan dynasty and evidence of Song-style clothing was also found in the unearthed tombs in southern China.[46]: 84–86 

The casual clothing for men mainly followed the dress code of the Han people and they worebanbi as a casual clothing item while ordinary women clothing consisted ofbanbi andruqun.[49]

Chinese women also wore cross-collar upper garment which had elbow length sleeves (i.e. cross-collarbanbi) over a long-sleeved blouse under a skirt; the abbreviated wrap skirts were also popular in Yuan.[45]: 19–20  Women jackets closing to the right and closing to the left coexisted in the Yuan dynasty. It was also common for Chinese women in the Yuan dynasty to close their clothing to the left side (instead of the right side).[50]

The way of wearing short-length cross-collar upper garment over long narrow skirt was also a Song-style fashion.[44] Long cross-collar upper garment (about the knee-length) over a long skirt could also be worn by Chinese elite women.[45]: 19–20  Theaoqun consisting ofjia ao (夹袄), a lined jacket, and a long-lengthqun was worn by the Han Chinese women aswinter clothing; typically thejia ao would be worn over the skirt.[51]

  • Figure of a Woman Jin-Yuan dynasty China 13th-14th century.
    Figure of a Woman Jin-Yuan dynasty China 13th-14th century.
  • Ruqun and banbi, Yuan dynasty. The jacket is closing to the left which is a common style for Chinese women in the Yuan dynasty.
    Ruqun and banbi, Yuan dynasty. The jacket is closing to the left which is a common style for Chinese women in the Yuan dynasty.
  • Woman wearing shanqun, Yuan dynasty.
    Woman wearing shanqun, Yuan dynasty.
  • Women depicted in the Fresco in the Hall of King Mingying. Han women wore elbow-length sleeves, cross-collar upper garment over a long-sleeved blouse; the abbreviated skirts were popular in Yuan.[52]
    Women depicted in the Fresco in the Hall of King Mingying. Han women woreelbow-length sleeves, cross-collar upper garment over a long-sleeved blouse; the abbreviated skirts were popular in Yuan.[52]
  • Women wearing Song-style ruqun (jacket over skirt) in the Yuan dynasty, from the painting 太平風會圖; "Street Scenes in Times of Peace", Yuan dynasty 14th century.
    Women wearing Song-style ruqun (jacket over skirt) in the Yuan dynasty, from the painting太平風會圖; "Street Scenes in Times of Peace", Yuan dynasty 14th century.

Ming dynasty

[edit]
A woman wearing a jacket (ao) which closes on the left, an atypical feature, Ming dynasty portrait.

In terms of appearance, theMing dynastyruqun (i.e. the short jacket and skirt) was similar to theSong dynasty'sruqun.[42] Compared to theruqun worn in theTang dynasty, the Ming dynastyruqun was more gentle and elegant in style; it was also less lavish and yet less rigid and strict as theruqun worn in the Song dynasty.[3]: 42  One difference from theSong dynastyruqun is the addition of a small short waist skirt which was worn by young maidservants; it is assumed that it was worn as an apron to protect the long skirt under it.[3]: 42  The short overskirt was calledyaoqun.[5]: 48–50  Moreover, following the Yuan dynasty, the style of closing the jacket to the left in women's clothing persisted in some geographical areas of the Ming dynasty, or for at least Chinese women who lived in the province ofShanxi.[50] Ming dynasty portrait paintings showing Chinese women dressing in left lapel jackets appeared to be characteristic of ancestral portraits from the province of Shanxi and most likely in the areas neighbouring the province.[50]

By the Ming dynasty, theruqun became the most common form of attire for women. The sleeves of the blouse were mostly curved with a narrow sleeve cuff in a style known aspipaxiu (琵琶袖; 'pipa sleeve'). The collar was of the same colour as the clothing. Often, there was an optional detachable protectivehuling (護領; 'protect collar') sewn to the collar. Thehuling can be white or any dark colour, and is used to protect the collar from being rotten by sweat, therefore to extend the life of the clothing. Towards the start of theQing dynasty, the skirt was mostlybaizhequn (百摺裙; 'hundred pleat skirt') ormamianqun.[dubiousdiscuss]

By the late Ming dynasty, theaoqun (jacket over skirt) became more prevalent than theruqun (short jacket under skirt); and the ao became longer in length.[5]: 48–50  By the late Ming dynasty, jackets withhigh collars started to appear.[5]: 93–94  The stand-up collar were closed with interlocking buttons made of gold and silver,[53] calledzimukou (子母扣).[54] The appearance of interlocking buckle promoted the emergence and the popularity of thestand-up collar and the Chinese jacket with buttons at the front, and laid the foundation of the use ofChinese knot buckles.[53] In women garments of the Ming dynasty, the stand-up collar with gold and silver interlocking buckles became one of the most distinctive and popular form of clothing structure; it became commonly used in women's clothing reflecting the conservative concept of Ming women's chastity by keeping their bodies covered and due to the climate changes during the Ming dynasty (i.e. the average temperature was low in China).[53]

  • A painting by Ming dynasty painter Tang Yin illustrating women in ruqun
    A painting by Ming dynasty painterTang Yin illustrating women inruqun
  • A painting by Ming dynasty painter Tang Yin illustrating women in ruqun
    A painting by Ming dynasty painterTang Yin illustrating women inruqun
  • A painting by Ming dynasty painter Tang Yin illustrating women in ruqun
    A painting by Ming dynasty painterTang Yin illustrating women inruqun
  • Illustration of Ming dynasty ruqun
    Illustration of Ming dynastyruqun
  • A woman (left) wearing an aoqun (i.e. top over skirt), Ming dynasty.
    A woman (left) wearing an aoqun (i.e. top over skirt), Ming dynasty.
  • Aoqun, Ming dynasty.
    Aoqun, Ming dynasty.
  • Group of women wearing aoqun, Ming dynasty
    Group of women wearing aoqun, Ming dynasty
  • A ming dynasty woman wearing a chang ao over a skirt (possibly a mamian skirt). A blue pifeng is worn over the outfit. The ao jacket is long and has a high stand-up collar.
    A ming dynasty woman wearing achang ao over a skirt (possibly amamian skirt). A bluepifeng is worn over the outfit. The ao jacket is long and has a high stand-up collar.

Qing dynasty

[edit]
See also:Qizhuang

During theQing dynasty, the aoqun was the most prominent clothing ofHan Chinese women.[5]: 48–50 [55] The ruqun (i.e. short jacket under skirt) continued to be worn in early Qing dynasty,[4] but the later Qing dynasty depictions of ruqun in arts were mostly based on earlier paintings rather than the lived clothing worn by women in this period.[5]: 48–50 

In the late Qing, women wore the long jacketao with the skirt.[56] It was fashionable to wear theao () with thebaizhequn (百摺裙) and themamianqun.[4] The ao in the Qing dynasty has a front centre closure and then curves crossover to the right before secured with frog buttons.[5]: 48–50  The front closing, collar, hem, and sleeves cuff have edging of contrasting pipings and side slits.[5]: 48–50  The skirts have a flat front and back panels with knife-pleated sides.[5]: 48–50  In Qing, the high collar continued to be used but it was not a common feature in clothing before the 20th century.[5]: 93–94  In the late Qing, the high collar become more popular and was integrated to the jacket and robe of the Chinese and the Manchu becoming a regular garment feature instead of an occasional feature.[5]: 93–94  The high collar remained a defining feature of their jacket even in the first few years of the republic.[5]: 93–94 

For the Han Chinese women, the stand-up collar became a defining feature of their long jacket; this long jacket with high collar could be worn over theirtrousers (shanku) but also over their skirts.[5]: 93–94  InThe Chinese and Japanese repository published in 1863 byJames Summers, Summers described Chinese women wearing a knee-length upper garment which fits closely at the neck; they wore it together with loose trousers with border around the ankles under askirt, which opens at the front and has large plaits over the hips. Summers also observed that the sleeves of the women's garment are generally long enough to conceal the hands in cold weather; the sleeves were sometimes very wide and were decorated beautifully with embroidered satin lining which would be turned back to form a border.[57]: 40  InMesny's Chinese Miscellany written in 1897 by William Mesny, it was observed that skirts were worn by Chinese women over their trousers in some regions of China, but that in most areas, skirts were only used when women would go out for paying visits.[58]: 371  He also observed that the wearing of trousers was a national custom for Chinese women and that trousers were worn in their homes when they would do house chores.[58]: 371  Mesny also observed that men (especially farmers, working men and soldiers) around Shanghai also wore skirts in winter.[58]: 371 

Another form of ruqun worn in that period is calledqungua (裙褂), which is composed ofgua (; "a jacket with central button closure") worn with aqun () skirt.[59] Thegua jacket was a popular form of jacket in Qing and was worn as a summer jacket instead of theao which was usually worn in winter.[4] Thequngua also referred to one style of Qing dynasty wedding dress.[59]

  • Illustration of ruqun and pifeng during Qing dynasty
    Illustration ofruqun andpifeng during Qing dynasty
  • Qing dynasty aoqun, the blue ao (jacket) has a slanted/curved opening.
    Qing dynasty aoqun, the blue ao (jacket) has a slanted/curved opening.
  • Qing dynasty Han Chinese women wearing Manchu-influenced aoqun and qungua.
    Qing dynasty Han Chinese women wearing Manchu-influencedaoqun andqungua.
  • Cantonese Han noble lady with her servants in 1900s wears Manchu-influenced aoqun.
    Cantonese Han noble lady with her servants in 1900s wears Manchu-influenced aoqun.
  • Woman's wedding costume from China, an aoqun. c. 1900.
    Woman's wedding costume from China, an aoqun. c. 1900.
  • A bride wearing aoqun,
    A bride wearing aoqun,

Modern

[edit]

Republic of China

[edit]
Wenming xinzhuang
[edit]

In the early 1910s and 1920s, young women woreaoqun calledWenming xinzhuang (文明新裝), also known as the "civilized costume" or "civilized attire".[6]: 47–50, 54 [60][61][62] It originated from the traditionalyishang (衣裳) and the basic style of this clothing is clearly inherited from ancientHan Chinese clothing although the details have changed over time.[6]: 47–50, 54  TheWenming xinzhuang continued the unbroken tradition of Han Chinese women's matching a jacket with a skirt which has been established for thousand of years.[6]: 47–50, 54 

Theao of theWenming xinzhuang was typically cyan and blue in colour while the long skirt was dark in colour, mostly in black; theao had no complex ornaments as bindings and embroidery was rejected in this period.[6]: 47–50, 54  There was a narrow trim which would bind the hem and the side vents were rectangular in shape.[6]: 47–50, 54  Theao typically had a standing collar and long in shape with its hemline typically reaching below hip height and sometimes even at knee-height.[6]: 47–50, 54  The sleeves were short and left the wrist exposed.[6]: 47–50, 54  The skirt was derived from thebaizhequn (百摺裙) and became a dark long skirt with larger pleats.[6]: 47–50, 54  With time, the skirt length eventually shortened to the point where the calves of the wearer was exposed, and theao had a lower collar and an arc shaped vents started to appear on both sides.[6]: 47–50, 54  This style of clothing eventually faded in the early 1930s.[6]: 47–50, 54 

  • Aoqun, 1920.
    Aoqun, 1920.
  • Aoqun, 1930s
    Aoqun, 1930s

21st century: Modern hanfu

[edit]

In the 21st century, several forms of ruqun, whose design are often based on the previous dynasties traditional ruqun but with modern aesthetics, gained popularity following theHanfu movement.[63][64]

  • Men and women wearing different style of modern ruqun.
    Men and women wearing different style of modern ruqun.
  • Ruqun sold in clothing store, 2018.
    Ruqun sold in clothing store, 2018.
  • Modern qixiong ruqun.

Construction and design

[edit]

As a set of garments, the ruqun consists of an upper and lower garment.

The ruqun can be categorized into types based on the waist height of the skirt:

  • Mid-rise (齊腰;qíyāo),
  • High-rise (高腰;gāoyāo) and
  • Qixiong ruqun (齐胸襦裙;qíxiōngrúqún).

The ruqun can also be categorized based on the collar style. The collar style of the upper garment can be divided into:

  • crossed collar (交領;jiāolǐng),
  • parallel collar (對襟;duìjīn), also known as straight collar (直领;Zhiling).
Summary of garments
ComponentRomanizationHanziDefinition
Upper garmentYiOpen cross-collar upper garment, or refers to any form upper garment.[29] It is unisex.[9]
RuOpen cross-collar upper garment,[32] only worn by women.

It typically refers to a short jacket.[5]: 48–50 [3]: 27 

It is usually waist-length, but longer forms ofru can also be found.[5]: 48–50 

Theru can be single-layered or multi-layered (i.e. double layered or padded).[65][3]: 27 

Changru长襦A longru jacket; the precursor of the longao.[5]: 48–50 
AoMulti-layer open cross-collar shirt or jacket.[29] It was mainly worn as winter clothing.[29][4]
ShanLit. translated as "shirt".[38]: 325  Single-layer open cross-collar shirt or jacket.[65][32] It can also be worn over theyi ().[32]
Changao長襖A longer version of the ao
GuaA jacket with a central closure which closes with buttons.[59] They appeared to be made of thinner fabric than theao and was worn in summer.[4] It was worn as a female wedding jacket.[59]
Lower garmentChang/shangSkirt for men,[32] or may refers to any form of lower garment including skirts andtrousers.[6]: 47–50, 54  In the Shang dynasty, the chang could also refer to an ankle-length skirt which was a unisex garment.
QunSkirt for women.[32]

Women's skirts

[edit]
See also:List of Hanfu

Throughout history, Han Chinese women wore many kind of skirts which came in variety of styles; some of which had their own specific names.

Types of ruqun

[edit]

See also

[edit]

References

[edit]
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Characteristics
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