Royal Tunbridge Wells (formerly, until 1909, and still commonlyTunbridge Wells) is a town inKent, England, 30 miles (50 kilometres) southeast ofCentral London. It lies close to the border withEast Sussex on the northern edge of theHigh Weald, whosesandstone geology is exemplified by the rock formationHigh Rocks. The town was aspa in theRestoration and a fashionable resort in the mid-1700s underBeau Nash when thePantiles, and itschalybeate spring, attracted visitors who wished to take the waters.[2] Though its popularity as a spa town waned with the advent of sea bathing, the town still derives much of its income from tourism.[3] The prefix "Royal" was granted to it in 1909 byKing Edward VII; it is one of only three towns in England with the title.
Evidence suggests thatIron Age people farmed the fields and mined the iron-rich rocks in the Tunbridge Wells area,[4] and excavations in 1940[5] and 1957–61[6] by James Money atHigh Rocks uncovered the remains of a defensivehillfort. It is thought that the site was occupied into the era ofRoman Britain, and the area continued to be part of theWealden iron industry until its demise in the late eighteenth century. An iron forge remains in the grounds ofBayham Abbey, in use until 1575 and documented until 1714.[7]
The origin of the town today came in the seventeenth century. In 1606Dudley North, 3rd Baron North, a courtier toKing James VI and I who was staying at a hunting lodge inEridge in the hope that the country air might improve his ailing constitution, discovered achalybeate spring. He drank from the spring and, when his health improved, he became convinced that it had healing properties.[8] He persuaded his rich friends in London to try it, and by the timeQueen Henrietta Maria, wife ofKing Charles I, visited in 1630[9] it had established itself as a spa retreat. By 1636 it had become so popular that two houses were built next to the spring to cater for the visitors, one for the ladies and one for the gentlemen,[8] and in 1664Lord Muskerry, Lord of the Manor, enclosed it with a triangular stone wall, and built a hall "to shelter the dippers in wet weather."[10]
Until 1676 little permanent building took place—visitors were obliged either to camp on thedowns or to find lodgings atSouthborough[9]—, but at this time houses and shops were erected on the walks, and every "convenient situation near the springs" was built upon.[8] Also in 1676 a subscription for a "chapel of ease" was opened, and in 1684 theChurch of King Charles the Martyr was duly built[8] and the town began to develop around it. In 1787 the antiquarianEdward Hasted described the new town as consisting of four small districts, "named after the hills on which they stand, Mount Ephraim, Mount Pleasant and Mount Sion; the other is called the Wells..."[11]
In the 1680s there was a building-boom in the town: carefully planned shops were built beside the 175-yard-long (160-metre)Pantiles promenade (then known as the Walks), and the Mount Sion road, on which lodging house keepers were to build, was laid out in small plots. Tradesmen in the town dealt in the luxury goods demanded by their patrons, which would certainly have includedTunbridge ware, a kind of decoratively inlaid woodwork.[8][12][13]
"They have made the wells very commodious by the many good building all about it and two or three miles [three or five kilometres] around which are lodgings for the company that drink the waters. All the people buy their own provisions at the market, which is just by the wells and is furnished with great plenty of all sorts of fish and fowl. The walk which is between high trees on the market side which are shops full of all sorts of toys, silver, china, milliners and all sorts of curious wooden ware besides which there are two large coffee houses for tea, chocolate etc. and two rooms for the lottery and hazard board (i.e. for gambling)."—Celia Fiennes, 1697[14]
An 1860 engraving of The Calverley Hotel, on Decimus Burton's Calverley estate. It still stands today as Hotel du Vin & Bistro.
FollowingRichard Russell's 1750 treatise advocating sea water as a treatment for diseases of the glands, fashions in leisure changed andsea bathing became more popular than visiting the spas, which resulted in fewer visitors coming to the town.[15] Nevertheless, the advent ofturnpike roads gave Tunbridge Wells better communications—on weekdays a public coach made nine return journeys between Tunbridge Wells and London, and postal services operated every morning except Monday and every evening except Saturday.[16] During the eighteenth century the growth of the town continued, as did its patronage by the wealthy leisured classes—it received celebrity cachet from visits by figures such asCaius Gabriel Cibber,Samuel Johnson,David Garrick,Samuel Richardson[9] and the successful booksellerAndrew Millar and his wife[17]—and in 1735Beau Nash appointed himself asmaster of ceremonies for all the entertainments that Tunbridge Wells had to offer. He remained in this position until his death in 1762, and under his patronage the town reached the height of its popularity as a fashionable resort.[18]
Calverley Crescent, part of the Calverley Park estate
Nineteenth and twentieth centuries
By the early nineteenth century Tunbridge Wells experienced growth as a place for the well-to-do to visit and make their homes. It became a fashionable resort town again following visits by theDuchess of Kent,Queen Victoria andPrince Albert,[9] and benefited from a new estate on Mount Pleasant and the building of the Trinity church in 1827,[9] and improvements made to the town and the provision of facilities such asgas lighting and a police service meant that by 1837 the town population had swelled to 9,100.[12] In 1842 anomnibus service was set up that ran from Tonbridge to Tunbridge Wells, enabling visitors to arrive from London within two hours,[16] and in 1845 the town was linked to the railway network via a branch fromSouth Eastern Railway's London-HastingsHastings Line atTonbridge. During this timeDecimus Burton developed John Ward's Calverley Park estate.[19]
In 1889 the town was awarded the status of a Borough, and it entered the 20th century in a prosperous state. 1902 saw the opening of anOpera House, and in 1909 the town received its "Royal" prefix. Due to its position in South East England, during theFirst World War Tunbridge Wells was made a headquarters for the army, and its hospitals were used to treat soldiers who had been sent home with a "blighty wound"; the town also received 150 Belgian refugees. TheSecond World War affected Tunbridge Wells in a different way—it became so swollen with refugees from London that accommodation was severely strained. Over 3,800 buildings were damaged by bombing, but only 15 people lost their lives.[16]
Following the war, large-scale housing estates were built at Sherwood and Ramslye to accommodate population growth.[citation needed]
Toponymy
Edward Hasted asserted that although the wells were originally named the "Queen's-Wells", they soon took on the name of Tunbridge Wells due to their proximity to the town ofTonbridge (known as "Tunbridge" until 1870):[20]
In compliment to [Queen Henrietta Maria's] doctor, Lewis Rowzee, in his treatise on them, calls these springs the Queen's-wells; but this name lasted but a small time, and they were soon afterwards universally known by that of Tunbridge-wells, which names they acquired from the company usually residing at Tunbridge town, when they came into these parts for the benefit of drinking the waters—Edward Hasted, 1797[11]
The prefix "Royal" dates to 1909, whenKing Edward VII granted the town its official "Royal" title to celebrate its popularity over the years among members of theroyal family.[21] Tunbridge Wells is one of only three towns in England to have been granted this (the others beingLeamington Spa andWootton Bassett).
Although "Wells" has a plural form, it refers to the principal source, the chalybeate spring in the Pantiles (where thewaters were taken).
Governance
The borough of Tunbridge Wells as shown within Kent
Tunbridge Wells is the administrative centre for bothTunbridge Wells Borough and the parliamentary constituency ofTunbridge Wells. The Borough is governed by 48Councillors, representing 20wards (eight wards fall within the town of Tunbridge Wells itself). Elections are held for 16 Council seats each year on a rotational basis, with elections to Kent County Council taking place in the fourth year of the cycle. Each councillor serves a four-year term.[22] Councillors meet regularly atTunbridge Wells Town Hall.[23]
Tunbridge Wells local elections show a pattern since 1973 of Conservative party dominance, apart from a two-year period from 1994 to 1996 ofno overall control and a two-year period from 1996 to 1998 when theLiberal Democrats held a majority. By 2008, the Conservatives had a large majority with 44 seats compared with the Liberal Democrats' four. The extent of the Conservatives' dominance is further illustrated by the fact that in some wards (e.g. Park) Labour did not even field a candidate in the 2008 council elections.[22]
By 2019, the local political situation had changed. In the 2019 local elections, the Conservative majority was cut to 8, and the council leader David Jukes lost his seat following months of controversy over the council's plan to borrow £90 million in order to build new council offices, a new 1200-seat theatre, and underground car parking in Calverley Grounds.[24][25][26]
In 2006 the town was estimated to have a population of approximately 56,500.[31] This had increased to 59,947 by 2016. The wider borough of Tunbridge Wells is home to considerably more people—some 104,000 in 2001, up from around 99,500 in 1991.[32]
The population of Tunbridge Wells is predominantly White and British in its ethnic origin andChristian in its religious affiliation: 97.5 per cent of residents of the district described themselves as white inthe 2001 census, and 75.0% identified themselves as being Christian.[30]
The statistics for crime in Tunbridge Wells show that in 2005/6 there were fewer crimes occurring in the area than the national average.[33]
Geography
The sandstone Wellington Rocks on Tunbridge Wells common
Tunbridge Wells is on the Kentish border withEast Sussex, about 31 miles (50 kilometres) south of London; the original centre of the settlement lies directly on the Kent/East Sussex border,[34] as recalled by the county boundary flagstone that still lies outside the church of King Charles the Martyr.
The geology of Tunbridge Wells as part of the Weald
Nearby villages have been subsumed into the built-up area of the town, so that now it incorporatesHigh Brooms to the north,Hawkenbury to the south, andRusthall (whose name resonates with the iron content of the rocks) to the west.
Twinning
Tunbridge Wells istwinned withWiesbaden, Germany.[38]In 1960, through an advertisement in the national press, contact was made between former paratroopers in Wiesbaden and four English ex-servicemen in Tunbridge Wells. Through this contact the friendship that now exists between the two towns sprang up, leading to the signing in 1989 of the official Twinning Charter. Also through this theTunbridge Wells Twinning and Friendship Association (TWTFA) was formed.[39]
Climate
Tunbridge Wells, like the rest of Britain, has a temperate maritime climate, lacking in weather extremes. The nearest official weather station isGoudhurst, about8+1⁄2 mi (14 km) east of the town centre.
The absolute maximum temperature in Goudhurst stands at 34.7 °C (94.5 °F),[40] recorded in August 1990, compared to the average annual warmest day maximum of 28.7 °C (83.7 °F).[41] In total, 11.8 days[42] should attain a temperature of 25.1 °C (77.2 °F) or above.
The absolute minimum temperature recorded in Goudhurst was −19.2 °C (−2.6 °F) during January 1940, compared to the average annual coldest night minimum of −8.3 °C (17.1 °F).[43] In total 52.8 nights should report an air frost.
Annual rainfall averages in Goudhurst 823.3 mm (32.41 in),[44] with over 1 mm (0 in) falling on 120.7[45] days.
Economy
The Royal Victoria Place shopping centre
As of 2002 there were around 50,000 people employed in the borough of Tunbridge Wells. The largest sector of the local economy consists of hotels, restaurants, and retail (the centrally located Royal Victoria Placeshopping centre, opened in 1992, covers 29,414 square metres (316,610 sq ft),[46] which accounts for around 30% of all jobs; the finance and business sector makes up just under a quarter of jobs, as does the public administration, education and health sector.[3] Tunbridge Wells is arguably the most important retail centre between London andHastings.Childrensalon is based in Royal Tunbridge Wells.
The largest single employer in the town used to be theMaidstone and Tunbridge Wells NHS Trust, at theKent and Sussex andTunbridge Wells Hospitals, employing around 2500 people; the largest single commercial employer wasAXA PPP healthcare, employing around 1,700 in four offices (PPP House, Union House, Phillips House and International House).[47] Tunbridge Wells had a relatively low unemployment rate of around 1.0% in August 2008,[48] compared to a UK national rate of around 5.4%.[49]
Tunbridge Wells town historically had three railway stations: two of these are still in use byNational Rail services.Tunbridge Wells station is, as its former name of Tunbridge Wells Central suggests, centrally located within the town at the end of the High Street, whilstHigh Brooms station is situated in High Brooms, to the north of the town. Both stations are located on the double-trackedelectrifiedHastings Line; services are operated by theSoutheasterntrain operating company.
Tunbridge Wells West station was opened by theLondon, Brighton and South Coast Railway in 1866 as the terminus of its competing line to Tunbridge Wells, but closed in 1985 along with that line.[50] The station building—a Grade IIlisted building—is now a restaurant, and aSainsbury's supermarket occupies the former goods yard. Part of the line was reopened in 1996 by the Tunbridge Wells and Eridge Railway Preservation Society,[51] which now—as theSpa Valley Railway—operates a steamheritage railway that runs from Tunbridge Wells West toEridge viaHigh Rocks andGroombridge. The western end of the service was extended from Groombridge to Eridge, on theLondon-Uckfield line ofSouthern Railway, on 25 March 2011, serving a platform at Eridge which had been disused for many years. The tunnelled link line between the West and erstwhile Central stations, opened in 1876, remains closed.
In 2009Network Rail installed a 12-car turnback siding just south of Tunbridge Wells station between the Grove Hill and Strawberry Hill tunnels to facilitate a more frequent service and to allow restricted types of London trains starting or terminating at Tunbridge Wells to be operated in 12-car formations. Previously such services were 11-car at most.[52][53]
Average daily passenger flows on trains between Tunbridge Wells and London increased from about 10,000 in 1999 to over 12,500 in 2008, a compound growth rate of about 2.5 per cent per year. Average daily passenger flows between Tunbridge Wells andSevenoaks, and between Tunbridge Wells andTonbridge, have grown considerably faster, though are still much smaller than the flows between Tunbridge Wells and London.[54]
Tunbridge Wells does not have a university of its own, but the Salomons Campus ofCanterbury Christ Church University is located just outside the town (nearSouthborough) and provides postgraduate programmes.
Tunbridge Wells Motor Club is one of the oldest motor clubs in the UK, being founded in 1911. It is still active in the Tunbridge Wells area promoting grass roots motorsport organising an autotest series and several sprint races throughout the year at circuits such as Lydden Hill and Goodwood.[56]World Endurance Championship teamJota Sport are based in Tunbridge Wells.[57] Recently, they have won the World Cup forHypercar Teams back-to-back in2023 and2024.
The RTW Monson Swimming Club competes inswimming,diving andwater polo and is based at the Tunbridge Wells Sports Centre. Its former memberJoanne Rout took part in the swimming events at the1988 Summer Paralympics inSeoul, aged 12, winning two relay gold medals (also setting two new world records) and three individual silver medals; and as of 2012[update] remains the youngest-ever British Paralympian.[64] A plaque can be found located in the club's trophy display. Tunbridge Wells Borough Council honoured Rout with the award of their Civic Medallion after her return from Seoul in recognition of her efforts and achievements at such a young age.[citation needed]
Tunbridge Wells Squash Club on London Road is a traditionalsquash club with three courts. There are internal leagues for squash and racquetball, and both men's and ladies' teams in the Kent Priory squash league. Squash facilities are also available at the Tunbridge Wells Sports centre on St John's Rd. which also has a club competing in the Kent priory league.
Curling
Fenton's Rink is situated in Dundale Farm near Tunbridge Wells. It is the only dedicatedcurling ice rink in England.[citation needed]
Public services
Tunbridge Wells Library, Museum and Art Gallery
Health services are provided by the West KentPrimary Care Trust.Maidstone and Tunbridge Wells NHS Trust runs the new Tunbridge Wells Hospital atPembury (usually referred to as Pembury Hospital), nearly three miles (five kilometres) from the town, which opened in 2011.
Tunbridge Wells is policed byKent Police, and in May 2000 the main police station for the area moved from Tunbridge Wells to a new building in Tonbridge[66] and operations at the Tunbridge Wells station, in Crescent Road, were scaled back so that it now operates as an administrative centre. Fire services are carried out byKent Fire and Rescue Service, which operates one station in Grove Hill Road that is staffed 24 hours a day by both full-time andretained firefighters.
TheKent and Sussex Crematorium and Cemetery opened in 1873, known initially as the Frant Forest Cemetery due to its location, laid out over 23 acres (9.3 hectares) by the then town surveyor.
Tunbridge Wells has a library, museum and art gallery in Civic Way.
Cultural references
The town has a reputation for being a bastion of the Englishmiddle class and a typical example of "Middle England". This is reflected in the locution "Disgusted of Tunbridge Wells", first used by a fictional writer of letters to national newspapers in the 1950s, to express outrage and defendconservative values.[67]
The Inspector Bone mysteries bySusannah Stacey are set in and around Tunbridge Wells.[68] InFanny Burney's 1796 novelCamilla, several characters make an excursion to Tunbridge Wells, and there are many references to The Pantiles and other local sites.[69]
Tunbridge Wells is referenced in another of David Lean's films,A Passage to India, in which Mrs. Moore (Peggy Ashcroft) exclaims about the odious wife of theDistrict Collector that "My only consolation is that Mrs. Turton will soon be retired to a villa in Tunbridge Wells."[70] Less well known isH. G. Wells's sending up in his 1925 bookChristina Alberta's Father: "Tunbridge Wells is Tunbridge Wells, and there is nothing really like it upon our planet".[71]
InSpitting Image, when Britain enters a revolution, Tunbridge Wells declares independence under the slogan of "liberty, equality, gardening".[72]
The Pantiles and itschalybeate spring have been the landmarks most readily associated with Royal Tunbridge Wells ever since the founding of the town, though the 5-metre-high (16 ft) steelMillennium Clock at the Fiveways area in the centre of town, designed by local sculptor Jon Mills for the Millennium celebrations, stakes a claim to be a modern landmark.[73][74]
Tunbridge Wells contains green spaces that range from woodland to maintained grounds and parks.[75] The most substantial areas of woodland are the Tunbridge Wells and Rusthall Commons, which comprise 250 acres (100 hectares) of wood and heathland and are close to the centre of the town. Open areas of the common are popular picnic spots, and there is a maintained cricket ground situated next to Wellington Rocks.[76]
The gardens at Calverley Grounds
Located in the town centre opposite the railway station, Calverley Grounds is a historic park with ornamental gardens and abandstand (now demolished). The park was part of Mount Pleasant House, which was converted into a hotel in 1837, until 1920, when the borough council purchased it for the town. The bandstand dated from 1924 and was damaged by an incendiary bomb in 1940 and parts of the metalwork were sold for scrap metal. The subsequently repaired bandstand and the adjacent pavilion were intended to form part of a new centre to the park but were never completed. The bandstand was demolished in 2010 although the pavilion still exists as a café.[77] Just inside the entrance to the park coming from the station is a memorial toAir Chief Marshal Lord Dowding, hero of theBattle of Britain, who lived and died in Tunbridge Wells.[78]
Dunorlan Park, at 78 acres (32 hectares) the largest maintained green space in the town, was once a private garden that was part of the millionaireHenry Reed's now demolished mansion, and only passed into public possession in 1941.[37] The gardens were designed by the Victorian gardener James Green, but over the years they became overgrown, making it hard to distinguish the full scope of Marnock's design. In 1996 Tunbridge Wells Borough Council applied to theHeritage Lottery Fund for a grant to restore the park in line with the original designs, and in 2003/4 Dunorlan underwent a £2.8 million restoration. TheRiver Teise rises in the park, and two dams on it have created a pond and a boating lake.[37] Dunorlan is listed as Grade II onEnglish Heritage'sNational Register of Historic Parks and Gardens.[79]
Great Culverden Park is a small,9+1⁄2-acre woodland in the Mount Ephraim area behind the site of the oldKent and Sussex Hospital and is the remnant grounds of the previous Great Culverden House designed byDecimus Burton that used to stand on Mount Ephraim.
The oldest public park in Tunbridge Wells is Grosvenor Recreation Ground designed by landscape architectRobert Marnock, located close to the town centre on Quarry Road. It was opened in 1889 by Mayor John Stone-Wigg, on the land that was formerly Caverley Waterworks. The lake area with dripping wells remains, but the other lakes, bandstand and open air pool have all gone. There is a bowls club, café, toilets and children's play area, including cycle track. It is adjoined by the Hilbert recreation ground, parts of which have been designated as a localnature reserve by the Kent High Weald Partnership; these include Roundabout Woods and the adjoining grass areas. The Hilbert Recreation Ground was donated to the town by Cllr Edward Strange in 1931, on the site of the form John Beane's Charity Farm. There are two football pitches, built as part of the King George V playing fields scheme, and a skatepark.[80]
TheSalomons Museum preserves the home ofDavid Salomons, the firstJew to serve asLord Mayor of London and the first non-Christian to sit in Parliament. It preserves the bench from which Salomons rose to speak as the first Jewish MP ever to speak in Parliament.[81]
The town's largest theatre is theAssembly Hall in Crescent Road, which has a capacity of 1020. Nearby, in Church Road, is theTrinity Arts Centre which is a converted church.
The Forum is a 250-capacity live music venue in the town, run byJason Dormon, where many bands have played their early concerts on their way to success.[82]
Unfest is an annual free music festival which takes place in May.[83]
Tunbridge Wells held its firstTEDxRoyalTunbridgeWells on 6 June 2015.[84]
Local media
Tunbridge Wells has one local commercial radio station,KMFM West Kent. TheBBC has its regional centre in the town at the Great Hall on Mount Pleasant Road. It is the base ofBBC Radio Kent and forBBC South East regional programmes, the complex contains studios and offices.
^Bateman, Jon (20 June 2008)."Iron forge at Bayham Abbey".Archaeology Data Service. ADS.Archived from the original on 22 December 2012. Retrieved22 August 2008.