First to climb all 14eight-thousanders, first to climb all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen, and first to climb Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen
First solo ascent ofMount Everest and first ascent without supplemental oxygen
Reinhold Andreas Messner (German:[ˈʁaɪnhɔltˈmɛsnɐ]; born 17 September 1944) is an Italianclimber, explorer, and author from the German-speaking province ofSouth Tyrol. He made the first solo ascent ofMount Everest and, along withPeter Habeler, the first ascent of Everest without supplementary oxygen. He was the first person to climb all 14eight-thousanders, doing so without supplementary oxygen. Messner was the first to crossAntarctica andGreenland with neither snowmobiles nor dog sleds[1] and also crossed theGobi Desert alone.[2] He is widely considered to be the greatest mountaineer of all time.[3][4][5]
Messner has published more than 80 books about his experiences as a climber and explorer. In 2010, he received the 2ndPiolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. In 2018, he received jointly withKrzysztof Wielicki thePrincess of Asturias Award in the category of Sports.
Messner was born to aGerman-speaking family in St. Peter,Villnöß, nearBrixen inSouth Tyrol, which is part ofItaly. According to his sister, his delivery was difficult as he was a large baby and the birth took place during an air raid. His mother Maria (1913–1995) was the daughter of a shop owner and 4 years older than her husband. His father Josef (1917–1985) was drafted to serve the German army and participated in World War II on the Russian front. After the war, he was an auxiliary teacher until 1957, when he became the director of the local school. Messner was the second of nine children – Helmut (born 1943),Günther (1946–1970), Erich (born 1948), Waltraud (born 1949), Siegfried (1950–1985), Hubert (born 1953), Hansjörg (born 1955) and Werner (born 1957), and grew up in modest means.[6][7]
Messner spent his early years climbing in theAlps and falling in love with theDolomites. His father was strict and sometimes severe with him.[citation needed] He led Reinhold to his first summit at the age of five.[3]
When Messner was 13, he began climbing with his brotherGünther, age 11. By the time Reinhold and Günther were in their early twenties, they were among Europe's best climbers.[8]
Since the 1960s, Messner, inspired byHermann Buhl, was one of the first and most enthusiastic supporters ofalpine style mountaineering in theHimalayas, which consisted of climbing with very light equipment and a minimum of external help. Messner considered the usualexpedition style (which he dubbed "siege tactics") disrespectful toward nature and mountains.[citation needed]
Before his first major Himalayan climb in 1970, Messner had made a name for himself mainly through his achievements in the Alps. Between 1960 and 1964, he led over 500 ascents, most of them in theDolomites.[citation needed] In 1965, he climbed a newdirettissima route on the north face of theOrtler.[citation needed] A year later, he climbed the Walker Spur on theGrandes Jorasses and ascended the Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero. In 1967, he made the first ascent of the northeast face of the Agnér and the first winter ascents of the Agnér north face andFurchetta north face.[citation needed]
In 1968, he achieved further firsts: theHeiligkreuzkofel middle pillar and the direct south face of theMarmolada. In 1969, Messner joined anAndes expedition, during which he succeeded, together withPeter Habeler, in making the first ascent of theYerupaja east face up to the summit ridge and, a few days later, the first ascent of the 6,121-metre-high (20,082 ft) Yerupaja Chico.[9] He also made the first solo ascent of theDroites north face, the Philipp-Flamm intersection on theCivetta and the south face of Marmolada di Rocca. As a result, Messner won the reputation of being one of the best climbers in Europe.
In 1970, Messner was invited to join a major Himalayan expedition that was going to attempt the unclimbedRupal face ofNanga Parbat. The expedition, which was the major turning point in his life, turned out to be a tragic success. Both he and his brother Günther reached the summit but Günther died two days later on the descent of the Diamir face. Reinhold lost seven toes, which had become badly frostbitten during the climb and required amputation.[8][10] Reinhold was severely criticized for persisting on this climb with the less experienced Günther.[11] The 2010 movieNanga Parbat byJoseph Vilsmaier is based on his account of the events.[12]
While Messner and Peter Habeler were noted for fast ascents in the Alps of theEiger North Wall, standard route (10 hours) and Les Droites (8 hours), his 1975Gasherbrum I first ascent of a new route took three days. This was unheard of at the time.[citation needed]
In the 1970s, Messner championed the cause for ascending Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen, saying that he would do it "by fair means" or not at all.[13] In 1978, he reached the summit of Everest with Habeler.[14] This was the first time anyone had been that high without supplemental oxygen and Messner and Habeler achieved what certain doctors, specialists, and mountaineers thought impossible. He repeated the feat, without Habeler, from theTibetan side in 1980, during the monsoon season. This was Everest's first solo summit.
Location of the eight-thousanders
In 1978, he made a solo ascent of the Diamir face ofNanga Parbat. In 1986, Messner became the first to complete all fourteeneight-thousanders (peaks over 8,000 metres above sea level).[15]
Messner was the first person to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders in the world and without supplemental oxygen. His climbs were also all amongst the first 20 ascents for each mountain individually. Specifically, these are:
First ascent of the unclimbed Rupal Face and first traverse of the mountain by descending along the unexplored Diamir Face with his brotherGünther. Prior to this ascent, Messner had not previously visited theGreater Ranges and the greatest altitude he had been to was on the expedition to the Andes in 1969.[17]
First ascent of Everest without supplementary oxygen (withPeter Habeler).[19][page needed] Nanga Parbat: first solo ascent of an eight-thousander from base camp. He established a new route on the Diamir Face, which has since then never been repeated.[20][page needed]
New route on Kangchenjunga's North Face, partially in alpine style with Friedl Mutschlechner. Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak: Both ascents with Sher Khan and Nazir Sabir. Messner becomes the first person to climb three 8000er in one season. Also a failed summit attempt on Cho Oyu during winter.
First ascent of Annapurna's unclimbed North-West Face. Both ascents with Hans Kammerlander.
1986
Makalu (8,485 m or 27,838 feet),Lhotse (8,516 m or 27,940 feet)
Makalu: Ascent with Hans Kammerlander and Friedl Mutschlechner, Lhotse: Ascent with Hans Kammerlander. Messner becomes the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders.
1973 –Marmolada West Pillar, first climb;Furchetta West Face, first climb;
1974 –Aconcagua south wall (6,959 m or 22,831 feet), partially new "South Tyrol Route";Eiger North Face withPeter Habeler in 10 hours (a record that stood for 34 years, for a roped party);
1976 –Denali (6,193 m or 20,318 feet), "Face of the Midnight Sun", first climb;
1978 –Kilimanjaro (5,895 m or 19,341 feet), "Breach Wall", first climb;
1985 – Tibet Transversale withKailash exploration;
1986 – Crossing of EastTibet;Mount Vinson (4,897 m or 16,066 feet,Antarctic), on 3 December 1986, thus becoming the first person to completeSeven Summits without the use of supplemental oxygen on Mount Everest;[21]
1991 –Bhutan crossing (east-west); "AroundSouth Tyrol" as a positioning exercise, where he was peripherally involved in theÖtzi find, being among the groups who inspected the mummy on-site the day after its initial discovery;
Reinhold Messner took a total of five expeditions toNanga Parbat. In 1970 and 1978 he reached the summit (in 1978 solo); in 1971, 1973 and 1977, he did not. In 1971 he was primarily looking for his brother's remains.
In May and June 1970, Messner took part in theNanga Parbat South Face expedition led byKarl Herrligkoffer, the objective of which was to climb the as yet unclimbed Rupal Face, the highest rock and ice face in the world. Messner's brother, Günther, was also a member of the team. On the morning of 27 June, Messner was of the view that the weather would deteriorate rapidly, and set off alone from the last high-altitude camp. Surprisingly his brother climbed after him and caught up to him before the summit. By late afternoon, both had reached the summit of the mountain and had to pitch an emergencybivouac shelter without tent, sleeping bags and stoves because darkness was closing in.
The events that followed have been the subject of years of legal actions and disputes between former expedition members, and have still not been finally resolved. What is known now is that Reinhold and Günther Messner descended the Diamir Face, thereby achieving the first traverse of Nanga Parbat and second traverse of an eight-thousander after Mount Everest in 1963. Reinhold arrived in the valley six days later with severe frostbite, but survived. His brother, Günther, however died on the Diamir Face—according to Reinhold Messner on the same descent, during which they became further and further separated from each other. As a result, the time, place and exact cause of death is unknown. Messner said his brother had been swept away by an avalanche.
In June 2005, after an unusual heat wave on the mountain, the body of his brother was recovered on the Diamir Face, which seems to support Messner's account of how Günther died.[22][23]
The drama was turned into a filmNanga Parbat (2010) byJoseph Vilsmaier, based on the memories of Reinhold Messner and without participation from the other former members of the expedition. Released in January 2010 in cinemas, the film was criticised by the other members of the team for telling only one side of the story.[23]
Because of severe frostbite, especially on his feet—seven toes were amputated—Messner was not able to climb quite as well on rock after the 1970 expedition. He therefore turned his attention to higher mountains, where there was much more ice.[24]
In 1972, Messner succeeded in climbingManaslu on what was then the unknown south face of the mountain, of which there were not even any pictures. From the last high-altitude camp he climbed with Frank Jäger, who turned back before reaching the summit. Shortly after Messner reached the summit, the weather changed and heavy fog and snow descended. Initially Messner became lost on the way down, but later, heading into the storm, found his way back to the camp, where Horst Fankhauser and Andi Schlick were waiting for him and Jäger. Jäger did not return, although his cries were heard from the camp. Orientation had become too difficult. Fankhauser and Schlick began to search for him that evening, but lost their way and sought shelter at first in a snow cave. Messner himself was no longer in a position to help the search. The following day, only Horst Fankhauser returned. Andi Schlick had left the snow cave during the night and disappeared. Thus, the expedition had to mourn the loss of two climbers. Messner was later criticised for having allowed Jäger go back down the mountain alone.[24]
Together withPeter Habeler, Messner made a second ascent ofGasherbrum I on 10 August 1975, becoming the first man ever to climb more than two eight-thousanders. It was the first time a mountaineering expedition succeeded in scaling an eight-thousander usingalpine style climbing. Until that point, all fourteen 8000-meter peaks had been summitted using theexpedition style, thoughHermann Buhl had earlier advocated "West Alpine Style" (similar to "capsule" style, with a smaller group relying on minimal fixed ropes).
Messner reached the summit again in 1984, this time together withHans Kammerlander. This was achieved as part of a double ascent where, for the first time, two eight-thousander peaks (Gasherbrum I and II) were climbed without returning to base camp. Again, this was done in alpine style, i.e. without the pre-location of stores.[24] FilmmakerWerner Herzog accompanied the climbers along the 150-kilometre (93 mi) approach to base camp, interviewing them extensively about why they were making the climb, if they could say; they could not. Messner became emotional on camera when he recalled having to tell his mother about his brother's death.
It took a week for the two climbers to summit both peaks and return to camp, after which Herzog interviewed them again. His documentary,The Dark Glow of the Mountains, with some footage the two climbers shot during the expedition on portable cameras, was released the following year.
On 8 May 1978, Messner and Habeler reached the summit ofMount Everest, becoming the first men to climb it without using supplemental oxygen. Before this ascent, it was disputed whether this was possible at all. Messner and Habeler were members of an expedition led by Wolfgang Nairz along thesoutheast ridge to the summit. Also on this expedition wasReinhard Karl, the first German to reach the summit, albeit with the aid of supplemental oxygen.
Two years later, on 20 August 1980, Messner again stood atop the highest mountain in the world, without supplementary oxygen. For this solo climb, he chose thenortheast ridge to the summit, where he crossed above theNorth Col in the North Face to theNorton Couloir and became the first man to climb through this steep gorge to the summit. Messner decided spontaneously during the ascent to use this route to bypass the exposed northeast ridge. Before this solo ascent, he had not set up a camp on the mountain.[24]
For 1979, Messner was planning to climbK2 on a new direct route through the South Face, which he called the "Magic Line". Headed by Messner, the small expedition consisted of six climbers: Italians Alessandro Gogna, Friedl Mutschlechner andRenato Casarotto; the Austrian, Robert Schauer; and GermansMichael Dacher, journalist, Jochen Hölzgen, and doctor Ursula Grether, who was injured during the approach and had to be carried to Askole by Messner and Mutschlechner. Because of avalanche danger on the original route and time lost on the approach, they decided to climb via theAbruzzi Spur. The route was equipped with fixed ropes and high-altitude camps, but no hauling equipment (Hochträger) or bottled oxygen was used. On 12 July, Messner and Dacher reached the summit; then the weather deteriorated and attempts by other members of the party failed.[25][26]
During his stay in Tibet as part of his Everest solo attempt, Messner exploredShishapangma. A year later, Messner, with Friedel Mutschlechner, Oswald Oelz, and Gerd Baur, set up a base camp on the north side. On 28 May, Messner and Mutschlechner reached the summit in very bad weather; part of the climb involvingski mountaineering.[24][26]
Messner chose a new variation of the route up the north face. Because there was still a lot of snow, Messner and Mutschlechner made very slow progress. In addition, the difficulty of the climb forced the two mountaineers to use fixed ropes. Finally, on 6 May, Messner and Mutschlechner stood on the summit. There, Mutschlechner suffered frostbite to his hands, and later to his feet as well. While bivouacking during the descent, the tent tore away from Mutschlechner and Messner, and Messner also fell ill. He was suffering fromamoebic liver abscess, making him very weak. He made it back to base camp only with Mutschlechner's help.[24]
After his ascent of Kangchenjunga, Mutschlechner flew back to Europe because his frostbite had to be treated and Messner needed rest. Thus the three mountains could not be climbed as planned. Messner was cured of his amoebic liver abscess and then travelled toGasherbrum II, but could not use the new routes as planned. In any case, his climbing partners, Sher Khan andNazir Sabir, would not have been strong enough. Nevertheless, all three reached the summit on 24 July in a storm. During the ascent, Messner discovered the body of a previously missing Austrian mountaineer, whom he buried two years later at the G I – G II traverse.[24]
In 1982, Messner scaledBroad Peak, his third eight-thousander. At the time, he was the only person with a permit to climb this mountain; he came acrossJerzy Kukuczka andWojciech Kurtyka, who had permits to climb K2, but used its geographic proximity to climb Broad Peak illegally. In early descriptions of the ascent, Messner omitted this encounter, but he referred to it several years later. On 2 August, Messner was reunited withNazir Sabir and Khan again on the summit. The three mountaineers had decamped and made for Broad Peak immediately after their ascent of Gasherbrum II. The climb was carried out with a variation from the normal route at the start.[24]
In the winter of 1982–83, Messner attempted the first winter ascent ofCho Oyu. He reached an altitude of about 7,500 m (24,600 feet), when great masses of snow forced him to turn back. This expedition was his first with Hans Kammerlander. A few months later, on 5 May, he reached the summit via a partially new route together with Kammerlander and Michael Dacher.[24]
In 1985, Messner topped out onAnnapurna. Using a new route on the northwest face, he reached the summit with Kammerlander on 24 April. Also on the expedition were Reinhard Patscheider, Reinhard Schiestl and Swami Prem Darshano, who did not reach the summit. During Messner and Kammerlander's ascent, the weather was bad and they had to be assisted by the other three expedition members during the descent due to heavy snowfall.[24]
Messner's attempt on the summit in 1977 failed onDhaulagiri's South Face.
Messner had already attemptedDhaulagiri in 1977 and 1984, unsuccessfully. In 1985 he finally summited. He climbed with Kammerlander up the normal route along the northeast ridge. After only three days of climbing they stood on the summit in a heavy storm on 15 May.[24]
Messner tried climbingMakalu four times. He failed in 1974 and 1981 on the South Face of the south-east ridge. In winter 1985–1986 he attempted the first winter ascent of Makalu via the normal route. Even this venture did not succeed.[24] Not until February 2009 was Makalu successfully climbed in winter byDenis Urubko andSimone Moro.
In 1986, Messner returned and succeeded in reaching the summit using the normal route with Kammerlander and Mutschlechner. Although they had turned back twice during this expedition, they made the summit on the third attempt on 26 September. During this expedition, Messner witnessed the death ofMarcel Rüedi, for whom the Makalu was his 9th eight-thousander. Rüedi was on the way back from the summit and was seen by Messner and the other climbers on the descent. Although he was making slow progress, he appeared to be safe. The tea for his reception had already been boiled when Rüedi disappeared behind a snow ridge and did not reappear. He was found dead a short time later.[24]
Messner's last climb of an 8,000m peak was Lhotse in 1986. To reach the summit that year and before winter broke, they took a direct helicopter flight from the Makalu base camp to the Lhotse base camp.[citation needed] Messner and Kammerlander had to contend with a strong wind in the summit area. With his Lhotse climb, Messner became the first person to climb all eight-thousanders. Since this ascent, Messner has never climbed another eight-thousander.[24]
In 1989, Messner led a European expedition to the South Face of the mountain. The aim was to forge a path up the as-yet-unclimbed face. Messner himself did not want to climb any more. The expedition was unsuccessful.[27]
In 1985Richard Bass first postulated and achieved the mountaineering challengeSeven Summits, climbing the highest peaks of each of the seven continents. Messner suggested another list (theMessner orCarstensz list) replacingMount Kosciuszko withIndonesia'sPuncak Jaya, or Carstensz Pyramid (4,884 m or 16,024 feet). From a mountaineering point of view theMessner list is the more challenging one. Climbing Carstensz Pyramid has the character of an expedition, whereas the ascent of Kosciuszko is an easy hike. In May 1986Pat Morrow became the first person to complete theMessner list, followed by Messner himself when he climbedMount Vinson in December 1986 to become the second.[21]
Messner is listed seven times in theGuinness Book of Records. All of his achievements are classed as "World's Firsts" (or "Historical Firsts"). A "World's First" is the highest category of any Guinness World Record, meaning the ownership of the title never expires.[28] As of 2021, Messner is the second highest record holder of "World's Firsts" (after Icelandic oceanic rowerFiann Paul, who has 13). Messner's world firsts are:
First ascent ofManaslu without supplementary oxygen
First solo summit of Everest
First ascent of Everest and K2 without supplementary oxygen
First ascent of the top three highest mountains without supplementary oxygen
First 8,000-metre mountain hat-trick
First ascent of Everest without supplementary oxygen
First ascent ofGasherbrum I without supplementary oxygen
Guinness World Records changed the status of First ascent of all fourteen 8000 metre plus peaks following research by German Himalayan chronicler, Eberhard Jurgalski, which suggested Messner did not reach the true summit of Annapurna in 1985.[29]
For nearly 37 years, Guinness World Records (GWR) recognized Messner as the first person to climb all 14 of the world’s mountains over 8,000 m; starting in June 1970 and concluding on 16 October 1986. Messner, however, never claimed the record as many top mountaineers have stated they do not chase such records not only because that is not the purpose of their endeavors but also because of the unavoidable and natural imprecision in proving many of these records.[30][31][32][33][34]
Nevertheless, on 18 September 2023, GWR stripped Messner of the record and awarded it toEd Viesturs. Messner retorted: "I don’t care if my name is in the Guinness World Records book. You can’t take a record I never claimed away from me."[35][36][37][30]
GWR based their reclassification of the record holder on the decade-long analysis of Eberhard Jurgalski. Jurgalski, dubbed a “mountaineering consultant” or “mountain chronicler” by the media, claimed to have used photographic and GPS records to estimate the true summits of all 14 peaks. He apparently cross-checked these findings with the summit-related claims (including photographic evidence) of the individuals who summited these peaks. Jurgalski’s estimates concluded that Messner, through no fault of his own, did not reach the true summit of at least three of the 14 peaks but that Viesturs was the first to do so. The difference in the claimed “true summit” and the “summit” supposedly reached by Messner was as little as a few meters.[35][36][38][30]
Both Messner and Viesturs do not accept Jurgalski’s estimates and other mountaineers have disputed Jurgalski’s findings as well. Jurgalski has never climbed any of the peaks in question and his claimed expertise, methodologies, and findings have been criticized by the mountain climbing community. For example: mountains change over time, especially via the collapse of summit cornices, which could explain the differences in the summit reached 40 years ago and the ones measured today. Moreover, Jurgalski may have missed cultural nuances that only expert climbers were aware of prior to summiting a mountain climbed by very few. For instance, Viesturs honored locals’ requests not to stand on the true summit of one of the 14 peaks, stopping just short out of respect for their beliefs, which would technically mean he never summited all 14 peaks either even though he could have.[30][31][39][40][41][33][32]
On October 13, 2023 Jurgalski reversed key features of his findings, stating that true summit of some of the peaks is indeterminable and therefore a “summit zone” of up to ~200 meters is a more appropriate approximation of wherein the true summit may lie. As a consequence, Jurgalski stated that Messner is the true record holder “forever”.[35][39][33]
Ultimately, in response to Jurgalski and GWR, Viesturs stated: “I truly believe that Reinhold Messner was the first person to climb all 14 8000ers and should still be recognized as having done so…” and “Messner is still the record-holder.”[38][30]
Despite Jurgalski’s retraction, Viestur’s voluntary failure to reach one of the summits out of respect for local culture, and Viestur’s proclamations that Messner is the true record holder, GWR maintains that Viesturs is the actual record holder.[35]
In 2003 Messner started work on a project for a mountaineering museum.[42] On 11 June 2006, the Messner Mountain Museum (MMM) opened, a museum that unites within one museum the stories of the growth and decline of mountains, culture in the Himalayan region and the history of South Tyrol.
The MMM consists of five or six locations:
MMM Firmian atSigmundskron Castle near Bozen is the centerpiece of the museum and concentrates on man's relationship with the mountains. Surrounded by peaks from the Schlern and the Texel range, the MMM Firmian provides visitors with a series of pathways, stairways, and towers containing displays that focus on the geology of the mountains, the religious significance of mountains in the lives of people, and the history of mountaineering and alpine tourism. The so-called white tower is dedicated to the history of the village and the struggle for the independence of South Tyrol.[43]
MMM Juval at Juval Castle in theBurggrafenamt in Vinschgau is dedicated to the "magic of the mountains", with an emphasis on mystical mountains, such asMount Kailash orAyers Rock and their religious significance. MMM Juval houses several art collections.[44]
MMM Dolomites, known as the Museum in the Clouds, is located at Monte Rite (2,181 m or 7,156 feet) between Pieve di Cadore and Cortina d'Ampezzo. Housed in an old fort, this museum is dedicated to the subject of rocks, particularly in the Dolomites, with exhibits focusing on the history of the formation of the Dolomites. The summit observation platform offers a 360° panorama of the surrounding Dolomites, with views toward Monte Schiara, Monte Agnèr, Monte Civetta, Marmolada, Monte Pelmo, Tofana di Rozes, Sorapis, Antelao, Marmarole.[45]
MMM Ortles atSulden on theOrtler is dedicated to the theme of ice. This underground structure is situated at 1,900 m (6,200 feet) and focuses on the history of mountaineering on ice and the great glaciers of the world. The museum contains the world's largest collection of paintings of the Ortler, as well as ice-climbing gear from two centuries.[46]
MMM Ripa at Brunico Castle inSouth Tyrol is dedicated to the mountain peoples from Asia, Africa, South America and Europe, with emphasis on their cultures, religions, and tourism activities.[47]
MMM Corones, opened in July 2015 on the top of theKronplatz mountain (Plan de Corones in Italian), is dedicated totraditional climbing.[48]
Messner was officially a member ofSouth Tyrolean Greens, a regionalist and ecologist political party active only inSouth Tyrol, whichde facto acts as a regional branch of the FdV.
From 1972 until 1977, Messner was married to Uschi Demeter. With his partner, Canadian photographer Nena Holguin, he has a daughter, Làyla Messner, born in 1981.[citation needed] On 31 July 2009, he married his long time girlfriend Sabine Stehle, a textile designer from Vienna, with whom he has three children.[50] They divorced in 2019.[51] In late May 2021, Messner married Diane Schumacher, a 41-year-old Luxembourgish woman living inMunich,[52][53] at the town hall inKastelbell-Tschars near his home in South Tyrol.[54][55]
Nanga Parbat, a 2010 film based on Messner's achievements
14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible, a 2021Netflix documentary film aboutNirmal Purja and his mountaineering team's world record breaking ascent of the 14 highest mountains in the world. Reinhold Messner provides commentary in several interview segments. TheNew York Times described his contribution to the film as "the alpine legend Reinhold Messner waxing beautifully existential".[58]
The Alpinist, a 2021 documentary film with commentary by Messner
My Quest for the Yeti: Confronting the Himalayas' Deepest Mystery. New York: St. Martin's Press. 2000.ISBN978-0-312-20394-8.
The Big Walls: From the North Face of the Eiger to the South Face of Dhaulagiri. Seattle: Mountaineers Books. 2001.ISBN978-0-89886-844-9.
Moving Mountains: Lessons on Life and Leadership. Provo: Executive Excellence. 2001.ISBN978-1-890009-90-8.
The Second Death of George Mallory: The Enigma and Spirit of Mount Everest. Translated by Carruthers, Tim. New York: St. Martin's Griffin. 2002.ISBN978-0-312-27075-9.