Rayadillo (transl. striped material) is ablue-and-white stripedcotton or flannel material that was used to make themilitary uniforms worn bySpanish colonial soldiers from the later 19th century until the early 20th century. It was commonly worn by soldiers posted in overseasSpanish tropical colonies,Spanish Morocco andSpanish Guinea,[1] before being adopted as a summer uniform by units stationed in Spain itself.[2]
Introduced in 1850 asuniforme de campania for Spanish infantry garrisoning the enclave ofMelilla on the coast of Morocco,rayadillo was both more serviceable and less conspicuous for hot weather wear than the blue serge coats and red trousers worn in Spain itself.[3] It became popular after being worn during theSpanish–American War, and was later adopted by thePhilippine Army.[4] It also served as the summer uniform of the regular army in Spain until replaced by khaki drill in 1914.[5]
The termrayadillo isSpanish, which translates to "striped material". In the mid-19th century, this material was referred to as being ofhilo listado azul, or "blue striped thread". It was known asdril azul rayado or "blue stripeddrill" by the end of the century. Early examples of the fabric seemed to have had light blue stripes which were widely separated, while surviving examples of uniform jackets and trousers from the 1890s have thinner stripes of a darker blue, known during that period asmil rayas – literally, "a thousand stripes". Seen from a distance,rayadillo looked either very light blue or blue-gray.[6] The garments were known to someBritish commentators as "pyjamas", due to a fancied resemblance to striped sleeping garments.[7]
TheRepublican Army of theFirst Philippine Republic underEmilio Aguinaldo also employed the same fabric in their military uniforms during the later years of thePhilippine Revolution and thePhilippine–American War.[8]
Along withpith helmets, which were also first worn by the Spanish inSoutheast Asia, therayadillo uniform became strongly associated withImperialism and was a symbol of colonial rule.[7] In the Philippines, the Rayadillo uniform is synonymous with the First Republic and the Philippine American War (1899-1902).
In more recent times,rayadillo patterns have made a reappearance in the world of clothing andtailoring in general, and have been popularised in everyday garments, specially in trousers, also known asmil rayas.
Military uniforms made out of therayadillo material were of a number of patterns:
Theguerrera, or campaign jacket worn with therayadillo uniform was made of deep blueflannel and had two breast pockets with flaps. It was fastened by a single row of seven metal buttons. The jacket was patterned on thetunic officially prescribed for general wear by the infantry of the Spanish Peninsular Army on August 18, 1886.[6] Theguerrera was worn by Spanish troops stationed in thePhilippines,Cuba andPuerto Rico. The Philippine-issuerayadillo patternedguerrera was distinguishable from those issued in Cuba and Puerto Rico by astanding collar and concealed button fly front. A single hook and eye is found at the bottom of the collar opening. This uniform was issued in 1891 until 1898.[9]
Theguayabera was patterned on a traditional Cuban work jacket. The tunic featurespleats down the front and center back and four large cargopockets on the skirt. It may or may not have a concealed button fly front. Bone is the preferred material for buttons; those on the shoulder strap and pockets are sometimes covered inrayadillo fabric. A thin white cotton lining is found in the interior shoulder area. Evidence culled from period photographs indicate these uniforms being issued about 1896 until 1898.[10]
The Filipinomambisa military tunic was instituted by what would eventually become thePhilippine Republic during theTejeros Convention.[11] It had two broad bands of matching fabric spanning the frontal area from the shoulders down to the hem. These concealed horizontal breast pockets which had vertical pocket flaps with buttons of eitherbrass or covered withrayadillo fabric. The brass buttons were either unadorned or decorated with a "mythological sun" motif. Officers' tunics had slits in the skirt's side that allowed ahand gunholster and a sword to be attached to a belt worn under the tunic.[8]Infantry officers wore blue pants with two white stripes down the sides, whileCavalry officers wore red trousers with black stripes.[12]
The artistJuan Luna is credited with this design.[13][14] His brother, generalAntonio Luna commissioned him with the task.[15] Juan Luna also designed the collar insignia for the uniforms, distinguishing between the services;Infantry,Cavalry,Artillery,Sappers and medical personnel.[16] At least one researcher has postulated that Juan Luna may have patterned the tunic after theEnglishNorfolk jacket, since the Filipino version is not a copy of any Spanish-pattern uniform. That Emilio Aguinaldo and his comrades, during their exile inHong Kong, had uniforms made ofrayadillo in this popular sporting pattern is another probable origin.[8][17]
The rayadillo clothing continued to be worn extensively by theSpanish Army into the early 20th century. It was worn on active service inMorocco[18] until 1911, whenkhaki drill was adopted. By now an essentially white uniform with fine blue stripes, it comprised the summer dress (de verano) for all branches of the Peninsular (mainland Spain) Army until 1914.[19]
In the Philippines, Mambisa-style 'rayadillo' uniforms were worn mostly by Veterans of the Philippine Revolution and of the Philippine–American War during the American period till the early years of the Republic as part of their heritage. Meanwhile,rayadillo-inspired uniforms are used by theArmed Forces of the Philippines as part of their ceremonial uniforms during national occasions, most notablyPhilippine Independence day. In particular the Philippine Army's Escort and Security Battalion uses it as the primary full dress uniform (in tandem with the modern full dress), with other ranks wearing straw hats and officers the pith helmet. In 2005, Gen.Cardozo M. Luna,Commandant of thePhilippine Military Academy ordered the revival of therayadillo material in thecadets'dress uniform, discarding theUnited States Military Academy-inspired dress uniform long used in the PMA.[20]Rayadillo-styled uniforms are worn by personnel of the inter-servicePresidential Security Command.
Historical reenactors all around the world still use the uniform in order to portray units that served in the Philippines, Cuba and Puerto Rico.
