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Rasgulla

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From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Syrupy dessert popular in South Asia
"Rosogolla" redirects here. For the 2018 film, seeRosogolla (film).

Rasgulla
Pahala rasagolas from Odisha (left) and Bengali rasagollas from West Bengal (right)
Alternative namesRasagola, rosgola, roshogolla, rossogolla, rasbhari or rasbari (Nepali)
TypeSoft sweet soaked in syrup
CourseDessert
Place of originIndia
Region or stateOdisha,West Bengal
AssociatedcuisineIndia,Bangladesh,Pakistan,Nepal
Serving temperatureHot, cold, or room temperature
Main ingredientsChhena,sugar
VariationsBengali rosogolla, Odia rasagola
Similar dishesRas malai,khiramohana,Khondoler misti

Rasgulla (literally "syrup filled ball")[a] is a syrupy dessert popular in theeastern part ofSouth Asia. It is made from ball-shaped dumplings ofchhena dough, cooked in lightsugar syrup. This is done until the syrup permeates the dumplings.

While it is near-universally agreed upon that the dessert originated in the eastern Indian subcontinent, the exact locus of origin is disputed between locations such asWest Bengal,[1][2] andOdisha,[3] where it is offered at thePuri Jagannath Temple.[4]

In 2017, when West Bengal got its rosogolla'sgeographical indication (GI) status, the Registry Office of India clarified that West Bengal was given GI status for Banglar rosogolla and Odisha can claim it too if they cite the place of origin of their variant along with colour, texture, taste, juice content and method of manufacturing.[5][6] In 2019, the government of Odisha was granted the GI status for "Odisha rasagola" (Odia rasagola).[7][8][9]

Names

The dessert ispronounced[rɔʃoɡolːa] inBengali, andpronounced[ɾɔsɔɡola] inOdia andpronounced[rɐsɐɡoːlɐkɐm] inSanskrit.Rasgulla is derived from the wordsras ("juice") andgulla ("ball").[10] Other names for the dish includerasagulla,[11]rossogolla,[12]roshogolla,[13]rasagola,[14]rasagolla,[15] andrasbhari orrasbari (Nepali).[16]

History

Claims of Puri temple tradition of Odisha (15th century)

According to historians of Odisha, the rasgulla originated inPuri, askhira mohana, which later evolved into the Pahala rasgulla.[17] It has been traditionally offered asbhog to goddessLakshmi atJagannath Temple, Puri.[18] According to the local legend, Lakshmi gets upset because her husbandLord Jagannath goes on a 9-day sojourn (theratha yatra) without her consent. So, she locksJai Vijay Dwar, one of the temple gates and prevents his convoy from re-entering theGarbhagṛha (sanctum sanctorum) of the temple. To appease her, Jagannath offers her rasgullas. This ritual, known asBachanika, is part of the "Niladri Bije" (or "Arrival of the God") observance, which marks the return of the deities to the temple after theRatha Yatra.[19][20]

The Jagannath Temple scholars such as Laxmidhar Pujapanda and researchers like Jagabandhu Padhi state that the tradition has existed since the 12th century, when the present-day temple structure was first built.[21][22] Pujapanda states that the Niladri Bije tradition is mentioned inNiladri Mahodaya, which is dated to the 18th century by Sarat Chandra Mahapatra.[21][23] According to Mahapatra, several temple scriptures, which are over 300 years old, provide the evidence of rasgulla offering ritual in Puri.[24]

According to folklore, Pahala (a village on the outskirts of Odisha's capitalBhubaneswar) had a large number of cows. The village would produce excess milk, and the villagers would throw it away when it became spoilt. When a priest from the Jagannath Temple saw this, he taught them the art ofcurdling, including the recipe for rasagulla. Pahala thus went on to become the biggest market for chhena-based sweets in the area.[25]

According to Asit Mohanty, an Odia research scholar on Jagannath cult and traditions, the sweet is mentioned as "Rasagola" in the 15th-century textJagamohana Ramayana of Balaram Das.[26][27][28][29][30]

The text mentions rasagola along with other sweets found in Odisha. There is also mention of many other cheese sweets likechhenapuri,chhenaladu andrasabali.[31][32] Another ancient textPremapanchamruta of Bhupati also mentions cheese (chhena).[33] It is being argued that cheese making process was well known before coming of Portuguese in Odisha.

According to the Bengali culinary historian Pritha Sen, in the mid-18th century, manyOdia cooks were employed in Bengali homes who arguably have introduced Rasgulla along with many other Odia dishes, but there is no substantial claim to prove that.[17] According to another theory, it is possible that the Bengali visitors to Puri might have carried the recipe for rasgulla back to Bengal in the nineteenth century. But no substantial claim regarding that was ever found by any historian or anyone else.[34]

This claim is contested by Bengali historians. According to food historiansK. T. Achaya and Chitra Banerji, there are no references to cheese (including chhena) in India before the 17th century. The milk-based sweets were mainly made up ofkhoa, before thePortuguese influence led to the introduction of cheese-based sweets. Therefore, the possibility of a cheese-based dish being offered at Jagannath Temple in the 12th century is highly unlikely.[35] According to Nobin Chandra Das' descendant Animikh Roy and historian Haripada Bhowmik, rasgulla is not even mentioned as one of thechhappan bhog ("56 offerings") in the early records of the Temple; the name of the sweet was coined in Bengal. They also state that it would have been a blasphemy to offer something made from spoiled milk (chhena) to a deity.[21][36] However, Michael Krondl argues that Hindu dietary rules vary from region to region, and it is possible that this restriction did not exist in present-day Odisha. But at the same time, he could not give any substantial information to uphold the claim that he was forwarding.[37]

Claims of invention in Bengal region (19th century)

Claims of invention in West Bengal

According to sweetmeat researcher Haripada Bhowmick,dela rasagulla was popular inNabadwip andPhulia ofNadia.Sri Chaitanya loved this type of rasagulla a lot and the art of its making was spread to other regions during theBhakti movement.[38] The spongy, white rôśôgolla is believed to have been introduced in present-dayWest Bengal in 1868 by aKolkata-based confectioner namedNobin Chandra Das.[39][40] Das started making rôśôgolla by processing the mixture ofchhena andsemolina in boiling sugarsyrup in contrast to the mixture sans semolina in the original rôśôgolla in his sweet shop located atSutanuti (present-dayBagbazar).

Yet another theory is that rôśôgolla was first prepared by someone else in Bengal, and Das only popularised it. InBanglar Khabar (1987), food historian Pranab Ray states that a man named Braja Moira had introduced rôśôgolla in his shop nearCalcutta High Court in 1866, two years before Das started selling the dish.[41] In1906, Panchana Bandopadhyay wrote that rôśôgolla was invented in the 19th century by Haradhan Moira, aPhulia-based sweetmaker who worked for the Pal Chowdhurys ofRanaghat.[42] According toMistikatha, a newspaper published by West Bengal Sweetmeat Traders Association, many other people prepared similar sweets under different names such asgopalgolla (prepared by Gopal Moira of Burdwan district),jatingolla,bhabanigolla andrasugolla.[41] Food historian Michael Krondl states that irrespective of its origin, the rôśôgolla likely predates Nobin Chandra Das. A sales brochure of the company run by Das' descendants also hints at this: "it is hard to tell whether or not cruder versions of similar sweets existed anywhere at that time. Even if they did, they did not match the quality of Nobin Chandra, and having failed to excite the Bengali palate, they slipped into oblivion."[37]

Bhagwandas Bagla, aMarwari businessman and a customer of Nobin Chandra Das, popularised the Bengali rôśôgolla beyond the shop's locality by ordering huge amounts.[43]

Modern popularity

In 1930, the introduction ofvacuum packing by Nobin Chandra's sonKrishna Chandra Das led to the availability of canned Rasgullas, which made the dessert popular outside Kolkata, and subsequently, outside India.[44] Krishna Chandra's sonSarada Charan Das established the K.C. Das Pvt Ltd company in 1946.[45] Sarada Charan's younger, estranged son Debendra Nath establishedK.C. Das Grandsons in 1956.

Today, canned rasgullas are available throughout India, Pakistan and Bangladesh, as well as in South Asian grocery stores outside the Indian subcontinent. InNepal, Rasgulla became popular under the nameRasbari.[16]

The Indian space agency,ISRO, is developing dehydrated rasgullas and other dishes for Indian astronauts in its planned crewed missions.[46]

In 2015, the Odisha government initiated a move to getGeographical indication (GI) status for the rasagulla made in Pahala.[21] On 30 July, the people of Odisha celebrated "Rasagola Dibasa" ("Rasgulla Day") to reaffirm Odisha as the place of the dish's origin.[47] In August,West Bengal decided to legally contest Odisha's move to obtain GI Status.[36] In 2015 The Odisha state government constituted three committees to claim over the rasgulla. The committees submitted their interim report to the government. Noted journalist and food researcherBhakta Tripathy and a member of the committee had submitted dossier containing historical evidence of rasgulla origin inOdisha.[48] The Science and Technology department of the West Bengal government also started the process to get its own GI status for the dessert.[49]

Rasagola Dibasa

On 30 July 2015, on the day of "Niladri Bije", a social media campaign was started by using the hashtag #RasagolaDibasa and it later became a mainstream celebration as the first day to celebrate Rasgulla's origin to be Odisha.[14][47][50] Odia newspaperSambad andFM radioRadio Choklate in collaboration with the confectioners of Pahala celebrated a rasgulla exhibition-cum-awareness event in Bhubaneswar. Sand artistSudarshan Patnaik made a sand sculpture inPuri Beach depicting "Niladri Bije" and Jagannath offering rasgulla to Lakshmi.[51]

It has been agreed upon to celebrate the Rasagola Dibasa every year on the tithi of Niladri Bije in the lunar calendar. In the year 2016, the Rasagola Dibasa has been celebrated on 17 July.[52]

Rosogolla Utsob

To pay tribute to the inventor of rosogolla, ‘Nobin Chandra Das’, and to promoteBengali claim of authenticity over rosogolla, from 2017 the government ofWest Bengal has decided to celebrate "Rosogolla Utsob" every year on 28 December.[53] And in the 2017 rosogolla festival, Bengali confectioners prepared the world's largest rasgulla, which weighed nine kilograms.[54][55] To celebrate the 150th anniversary of rosogolla's invention, the government of West Bengal had also organised a three-day grand ‘Rosogolla festival’ from 28 December 2018 to 30 December 2018.

Preparation

To prepare rasgulla, the cheese (chhena) mixture is formed into small balls. These balls are then simmered in a sugar syrup.[56] It can also be prepared using apressure cooker[57] or anoven.[58] While serving, a drop of rose water (only organic and edible type of rose water, not rose perfume or synthetic flavours) can be added.

  • Chhena divided into balls
    Chhena divided into balls
  • Chenna balls being boiled
    Chenna balls being boiled
  • Rasgulla being taken out of the syrup
    Rasgulla being taken out of the syrup

Variations

  • Rasgullas from Kolkata, India
    Rasgullas from Kolkata, India
  • Reddish rasgullas from Pahala (located between the cities of Bhubaneswar and Cuttack), Odisha[59]
    Reddish rasgullas from Pahala (located between the cities ofBhubaneswar andCuttack), Odisha[59]
  • Bikali Kar Rasagola from Salepur, Cuttack, Odisha
    Bikali Kar Rasagola from Salepur, Cuttack, Odisha
  • Rasagola from Bhubaneswar, Odisha
    Rasagola from Bhubaneswar, Odisha
  • Sponge Rasgulla within a container
    Sponge Rasgulla within a container
  • Kamalabhog, an orange-flavoured Bengali rasgulla
    Kamalabhog, an orange-flavoured Bengali rasgulla
  • Baked rasgulla – a Bengali variation
    Baked rasgulla – a Bengali variation
  • Rasagola from Kalahandi, Odisha
    Rasagola from Kalahandi, Odisha
  • Rasgulla and gulab jamun
    Rasgulla andgulab jamun

Derivatives and similar desserts

Along withchhena gaja andchhena poda, rasgulla is one of three traditionalOdia chhena desserts. Due to rasgulla becoming associated withBengali cuisine, the Odisha Milk Federation has tried to popularise chhena poda as the signature Odia dessert.[60][61]

Nutrition

Typically, a 100-gram serving of rasgulla contains 186 calories, out of which about 153 calories come from carbohydrates. It also contains about 1.85 grams of fat and 4 grams of protein.[62]

Geographical indication (GI) tag

In 2015, West Bengal applied for aGeographical Indication (GI) status for "Banglar Rasogolla" (Bengali Rasgulla). The Government clarified that there was no conflict with Odisha, and its application was only for a specific variant which was different in "both in colour, texture, taste, juice content and method of manufacturing" from the variant produced in Odisha.[63] On 14 November 2017, theGI Registry of India granted West Bengal the GI status for Banglar Rasogolla.[5][64][65]

The GI Registrar office atChennai later specifically clarified that West Bengal was given GI status only for the Bengali version of Rasgulla ("Banglar Rasogolla"), not for the sweet's origin. The office also stated that Odisha had not by then applied for any GI tag, but it could also get Odisha Rasgulla's GI tag by presenting the necessary evidence.[5]

In 2018 Odisha applied for GI status in Chennai GI Registry.[66] On 29 July 2019, the GI Registry of India granted Odisha the GI status for "Odisha Rasagola", which is the Odia version of Rasgulla.[7][8]

See also

Notes

  1. ^Also known as rasagola, rosogola, or rosogolla.

References

  1. ^Subodhchandra Sengupta (1960).Samsad Bangla Charitabhidhan.
  2. ^Ghosh, Bishwanath (15 November 2014)."Kolkata Chromosome: Like KC for 'rossogolla'".mint. Retrieved24 August 2021.
  3. ^"Panel seal on rasgulla's Odisha origin". Archived fromthe original on 15 July 2016. Retrieved2 October 2016.
  4. ^Sarat Chandra Mahapatra (1994).Car Festival of Lord Jagannath, Puri. Puri: Sri Jagannath Research Centre. p. 149.OCLC 967072714.
  5. ^abc"Sweet War: This GI tag is for Banglar Rosogolla, it is not about the origin".The New Indian Express. 14 November 2017.
  6. ^"GI Certificate by Govt of India"(PDF).
  7. ^ab"Sweet success: Odisha's Rasagola gets GI tag".The Indian Express. 29 July 2019. Retrieved29 July 2019.
  8. ^ab"Battle Over Origin of 'Rasgulla' Continues, After Odisha Files Petition Demanding Change of GI Tag".News18. Retrieved29 July 2019.
  9. ^"Odisha Finally Gets Geographical Indication Tag For 'Odishara Rasagola'".Outlook. Retrieved29 July 2019.
  10. ^"Rasgulla@Oxford Dictionaries" (in Hindi). India: Oxford University Press. Archived fromthe original on 24 September 2015. Retrieved28 August 2015.
  11. ^Deepika Sahu (2 July 2012)."Discover Odisha's 'sweet' magic".The Times of India.
  12. ^"History of rossogolla now just a click away".The Times of India. 15 March 2013.
  13. ^"Of luchi, rolls & roshogolla in Durga puja".Daily Bhaskar. 29 September 2011.
  14. ^ab"Rasagola originated in Odisha- Did you know?". Zee News. 30 July 2015.
  15. ^Sonali Pattnaik (18 July 2013)."How to make…Rasagolla".The Hindu.
  16. ^abAlan Davidson (21 September 2006).The Oxford Companion to Food. OUP Oxford. p. 1880.ISBN 978-0-19-101825-1.
  17. ^abMitra Bishwabijoy (6 July 2015)."Who invented the rasgulla?".Times of India. Retrieved2 August 2015.
  18. ^"Trinity take 'adhar pana' on raths".The New Indian Express. 5 July 2009. Archived fromthe original on 12 May 2014.
  19. ^Subhashish Mohanty (3 July 2012)."Lord placates wife with sweet delight". Archived fromthe original on 14 March 2014.
  20. ^"Sweet and sermon return for deities".The Telegraph. Calcutta. 26 July 2010. Archived fromthe original on 25 October 2012.
  21. ^abcdMohapatra Bhattacharya; Debabrata Kajari (31 July 2015)."Citing Rath ritual, Odisha lays claim to rasagulla, WB historians don't agree".Times of India. Retrieved1 August 2015.
  22. ^Jagabandhu Padhi (2000).Sri Jagannatha at Puri. S.G.N. Publications.
  23. ^Sarat Chandra Mahapatra (1994).Car Festival of Lord Jagannath, Puri. Puri: Sri Jagannath Research Centre. p. 55.OCLC 967072714.
  24. ^Debabrata Mohapatra (29 July 2007). "Researchers Claim Rasgullas Were Born In Puri".The Times of India.
  25. ^Madhulika Dash (11 September 2014)."The Food Story: How India's favourite sweet dish rosugulla was born".Indian Express.
  26. ^"Hopes for Rasagola Origin in Odisha Revived".The Pioneer. 15 July 2016. Retrieved20 July 2016.
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  28. ^"The unkindest cut: 'Rasagolas' are not Bengali after all".Firstpost. 3 August 2015. Retrieved12 July 2022.
  29. ^"New evidence on rasagola's Odisha origin found | Sambad English". 18 May 2016.
  30. ^"Rasagola | PDF".
  31. ^Ramayana, Jagamohan.Ramayana. Ajodhya Kanda: Balaram Das.
  32. ^Typical selections from Oriya Literature.Ramayana. B.C. Mazumdar. p. 84.
  33. ^G. C. Praharaj (1931–1940).Purnnacandra Odia Bhashakosha. Cuttack: Utkal Sahitya Press. p. 2594. Archived fromthe original on 27 October 2020. Retrieved20 July 2016.
  34. ^Michael Krondl (Summer 2010). "The Sweetshops of Kolkata".Gastronomica.10 (3):58–65.doi:10.1525/gfc.2010.10.3.58.JSTOR 10.1525/gfc.2010.10.3.58.
  35. ^Shoaib Daniyal (4 August 2015)."Who Deserves Credit For The Rasgulla? Bengalis, Odiyas...Or The Portuguese?".Kashmir Observer. Archived fromthe original on 9 October 2015.
  36. ^abJhimli Mukherjee Pandey (10 August 2015)."Maharashtra (West Bengal) takes up rosogolla battle with Odisha".The Times of India.
  37. ^abMichael Krondl (2011).Sweet Invention: A History of Dessert. Chicago Review Press. pp. 55–59.ISBN 978-1-55652-954-2.
  38. ^"The rasogolla's journey, from Nadia to Odisha and Kolkata".The Times of India. 15 November 2017.ISSN 0971-8257. Retrieved9 August 2024.
  39. ^Subodh Chandra, Sengupta, ed. (1976).Samsad Bangla Charitabhidhan (1st ed.). Kolkata: Sahitya Samsad. p. 240. Retrieved23 February 2018.
  40. ^Ghosh, Bishwanath (15 November 2014)."Kolkata Chromosome: Like KC for 'rossogolla'".mint. Retrieved29 September 2020.
  41. ^abIshita Dey (2015). Michael Krondl; et al. (eds.).The Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets. Oxford University Press. pp. 580–581.ISBN 978-0-19-931361-7.
  42. ^"The sweet legacy of Durga Puja".The Times of India. 29 September 2014.
  43. ^"How the rasogolla became a global name!".rediff.com. 16 November 2011.
  44. ^Piyasree Dasgupta (29 October 2011)."Sticky Sweet Success".Indian Express.
  45. ^Bishwanath Ghosh (29 October 2014).Longing, Belonging: An Outsider At Home In Calcutta. Westland. p. 177.ISBN 978-93-84030-60-5.
  46. ^Ram Kumar Ramaswamy (16 June 2012)."Isro astronauts to savour idlis, rasgullas in space".Asian Age.
  47. ^abRamani Ranjan Mohapatra (30 July 2015)."#RasagolaDibasa trends as Odias reclaim iconic dish".Hindustan Times.
  48. ^Sumit Behera (16 October 2015)."Sweet Struggle - Origin of Rasgulla".rissadiary.com. Archived fromthe original on 18 August 2016.
  49. ^"West Bengal and Odisha Battle Over the Invention of 'Rasgulla'". NDTV. 26 August 2015.
  50. ^Dhrubo Jyoti (30 July 2015)."Revenge is sweet: How Bengalis made rosogolla their own".Hindustan Times. Retrieved2 August 2015.
  51. ^"Odisha celebrates 'Rasagola Dibasa' with great fanfare". 31 July 2015. Archived from the original on 31 July 2015. Retrieved2 August 2015.
  52. ^"Odisha celebrates 'Rasagola Dibasa', state claims evidence of origin".The Times of India. Retrieved21 July 2016.
  53. ^"All you need to know about the 'Rosogolla Festival'".The Times of India. Retrieved24 August 2021.
  54. ^Sengar, Resham."Now, West Bengal creates world's biggest 'Rasgulla' weighing 9 kg!".The Times of India. Retrieved24 August 2021.
  55. ^Venkatesh, Shruti (24 November 2017)."Sweet Treat: West Bengal Makes World's Biggest Rasgulla to Celebrate GI Tag for 'Banglar Rosogolla'".India News, Breaking News | India.com. Retrieved24 August 2021.
  56. ^Lois Sinaiko Webb (1 January 2000).Multicultural Cookbook of Life-cycle Celebrations. ABC-CLIO. pp. 309–.ISBN 978-1-57356-290-4.
  57. ^Tarla Dalal (17 November 2003).Desserts Under Ten Minutes. Sanjay & Co. pp. 69–.ISBN 978-81-86469-84-2.
  58. ^Tarla Dalal (2006).Low Calorie Sweets. Sanjay & Co. pp. 42–.ISBN 978-81-89491-34-5.
  59. ^Rimli Sengupta (9 January 2012)."Kling Canoes At Tamralipta".Outlook. Archived fromthe original on 18 September 2016. Retrieved23 July 2024.
  60. ^Rajaram Satapathy (15 August 2002)."Sweet wars: Chhenapoda Vs rasagolla".The Times of India.
  61. ^"Chew on This: Chenna poda". Metro Plus Kochi.The Hindu. 11 April 2009. Archived fromthe original on 16 April 2009.
  62. ^Nutrition Information For Rasgulla. Livestrong.Com. Retrieved on 6 December 2012.
  63. ^"Our Claim Only On A Variety Of Rasogolla, No Dispute With Odisha: West Bengal".NDTV.Press Trust Of India. 27 July 2016. Retrieved24 August 2016.
  64. ^"Intellectual Property India".ipindiaservices.gov.in. Retrieved15 November 2017.
  65. ^"Certificate of Registration of Geographical Indication under section 16 (1)-or of authorised user under section 17(3)(e)"(PDF).Intellectual Property India. 14 November 2017. Retrieved15 November 2017.
  66. ^"Odisha Rasagola receives geographical indication tag; here's what it means".Business Today. Retrieved29 July 2019.
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