| Scottish Gaelic name | Ratharsair |
|---|---|
| Pronunciation | [ˈrˠa.arˠs̪əɾʲ]ⓘ |
| Old Norse name | Raa-s-oy or Ross-oy, Rásey or Hrossey |
| Meaning of name | Old Norse for "roe deer island" or possibly "horse island" |
 Dùn Caan from Loch na Mna | |
| Location | |
  Raasay Raasay shown within the Skye area | |
| OS grid reference | NG579395 |
| Coordinates | 57°24′N6°02′W / 57.400°N 6.033°W /57.400; -6.033 |
| Physical geography | |
| Island group | Skye |
| Area | 6,231 ha (24 sq mi) |
| Area rank | 19 [1] |
| Highest elevation | Dùn Caan 444 m (1,457 ft) |
| Administration | |
| Council area | Highland |
| Country | Scotland |
| Sovereign state | United Kingdom |
| Demographics | |
| Population | 187[2] |
| Population rank | 33= [1] |
| Population density | 2.9/km2 (7.5/sq mi)[2][3] |
| Largest settlement | Inverarish |
 | |
| References | [4][5] |
Raasay (/ˈrɑːseɪ/;Scottish Gaelic:Ratharsair[6]), sometimes theIsle of Raasay,[5] is an island between theIsle of Skye and the mainland of Scotland. It is separated from Skye by theSound of Raasay and fromApplecross by theInner Sound. It is famous for being the birthplace ofGaelic poetSorley MacLean, an important figure in theScottish Renaissance.[7]
Traditionally the home ofClan MacSween, the island was ruled by theMacLeods from the 15th to the 19th century. Subsequently, a series of private landlords held title to the island, which is now largely in public ownership.[8] Raasay House, which was visited byJames Boswell andSamuel Johnson in 1773, is now a hotel, restaurant, bar and outdoor activity centre.[9] Raasay means "Isle of theRoe Deer" and the island is home to anendemicsubspecies ofbank vole.[3]
About 14 miles (23 kilometres) north to south and 3 miles (5 kilometres) east to west (at its widest), Raasay's terrain is varied. The highest point, at 443 metres (1,453 feet), isDùn Caan – an unusual, flat-topped peak. The island ofRona lies just off the north coast and the tidal islets ofEilean Fladday andEilean Tigh are to the northwest. Other smaller surrounding islands are Eilean Aird nan Gobhar, Eilean an Inbhire, Holoman Island, Manish Island, Fraoch Eilean, Glas Eilean, Griana-sgeir and Eilean an Fhraoich. The main village ofInverarish is near the southwest coast and contiguous with both Clachan at the west end where the main pier is situated and Suishnish to the east. Oskaig is a small settlement further up the west coast.[5]
Geologically interesting, the island is visited by many students engaged in mapping projects. The south is mainly Torridonian sandstone and shale; the north is grey-bandedArchaeanLewisian gneiss and granulite. There are also smaller outcrops ofJurassicshales andsandstones occasionally interspersed withlimestone. The relatedironstone beds contain low gradeooliticsiderite andchamosite ores which were worked commercially in the early 20th century. Remaining reserves are estimated at 10 million tonnes. The seas to the east and west are very deep, large troughs having been created by the Skye icecap in thePleistocene.[10]
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The primary employment is intourism, working for the ferry company, crofting and fishing, or commuting to work on Skye. A twenty-five-minute ride by the car and passenger ferry connects the island withSconser on Skye. There is a primary school, but older students go toPortree High School by the ferry and bus.
Sites of interest include the remains of abroch, the ruins ofBrochel Castle, inscribed stones, abandoned crofting communities, and many walking paths.
There is a shop/post office located in Inverarish. Accommodation is available in the oldmanor of Raasay House, and at variousB&Bs. There are significant numbers of incomers and holiday homes especially in the south of the island. This has helped to arrest the population decline from over 900 in 1803 to 194 in 2001. Some inhabitants belong to theFree Presbyterian Church of Scotland, which strictly observes theSabbath. On Sundays there are no public services, the playground is closed and, until 2004, the ferry did not run.[11][12]
In early 2007 the Raasay Community Association signed a contract with a number of building contractors to construct a community centre, which hosted its firstcéilidh on 29 May 2010.[13][14] In 2008 construction began on a new £12 million ferry terminal at Churchton Bay, which was officially opened on 17 August 2010. Following the community buyout of Raasay House, a £3.5 million refurbishment was undertaken, leading to the temporary closure of the outdoor centre.[15] However, in the early hours of 18 January 2009 the building was severely damaged by fire.[16] Restoration work commenced in August 2010 but was suspended in November when the main contractor, ROK, went into administration.[17][18] Work restarted with a new contractor, Mansell, in late 2011. Raasay House was officially handed over to the community in March 2013[19] and in addition to the 4 star accommodation it provides it is also now an outdoor activity centre with a restaurant, bar and cafe.[9][20]
In September 2017 theIsle of Raasay distillery opened after the conversion of Borodale House.[21] One source described this as transforming the "derelict Gothic hotel ... into a modern whisky distillery, visitor centre and accommodation".[22] The company'sSingle malt Scotch was described by one source as the island's "first legal single malt" whisky. It released 7,500 bottles of the spirit in 2020, the first year that Raasay Single Malt became available.[23]
Raasay is home to the Raasay vole (Clethrionomys glareolus erica),[24] asubspecies ofbank vole, which is darker and heavier than the mainland variety and found nowhere else in the world. It is possibly a survivor of aScandinavian race. Murray (1973) states that a single specimen of apine marten, otherwise missing from theHebrides, was found on the island in 1971.[a] No other records for this species exist. Raasay is one of only four of theInner Hebrides wheremountain hares breed.[26] Raasay is regularly visited bywhite-tailed sea eagles andgolden eagles and there are populations ofotter,red deer andEuropean rabbit (which were introduced by the island's proprietor in the 19th century).Stoat andweasel are found in small numbers as arewater shrew.[3][27][28] It also supports a rich variety of plants, includingred broomrape,dark red helleborine,mountain avens and numerous othersaxifrages,orchids,alpines andferns. Thecarline thistle (Carlina vulgaris) was apparently extant in the 1970s, but a recent survey found no evidence of its continued existence. There are several stands of mixed woodland.[3][29][b]
Between 1999 and 2004 a large scale archaeological project, Scotland's First Settlers, was undertaken in theInner Sound to locate and examine sites relating to theMesolithic period in the strait. The entire coastline of the Inner Sound together with its islands was walked by volunteers and archaeologists. On Raasay they found 14 caves and rock shelters with evidence of prehistoric habitation, in the form of bothmiddens and walls. Only the site at Loch an Sgurra at the far north of Raasay was confirmed as Mesolithic on the basis of both the stone tools andradiocarbon dating.[30]
The spread of Scots culture fromDalriada north ofArdnamurchan is poorly understood and little is recorded of Raasay's early Christian period. The placenameKilmaluag suggests the presence ofSt Moluag in the late sixth century.[31]
Following Viking expeditions to the islands they called theSuðreyjar in the eighth century, Raasay became part of the NorseKingdom of the Isles and for much of the period religious observance came under the jurisdiction of theBishopric of the Isles.[32] The Hebrides were yielded to theKingdom of Scotland as a result of the 1266Treaty of Perth,[c] after which time control of the islands north of Ardnamurchan was in the hands of theEarls of Ross.[33] In addition to the name "Raasay" itself, placenames such as Arnish (eagle headland),Suidhisnis (seething headland) and Eyre (beach or sand spit) are a legacy of the Norse presence.[34]
Tradition has it thatClan MacSween originally held title to Raasay but there is no written record of this.[35] It is known that the island was ruled by the MacLeods from 1518 when Gillecallum, younger son of the MacLeod Chief ofLewis was granted title.[3]Martin Martin visited towards the end of the 17th century and noted:
it has some wood on all the quarters of it, the whole is fitter for pasturage than cultivation, the ground being generally very unequal, but very well watered with rivulets and springs. There is a spring running down the face of a high rock on the east side of the isle; it petrifies into a white substance, of which very fine lime is made, and there is a great quantity of it. There is a quarry of good stone on the same side of the isle; there is abundance of caves on the west side, which serve to lodge several families, who for their convenience in grazing, fishing, &c., resort thither in the summer. On the west side, particularly near to the villageClachan, the shore abounds with smooth stones of different sizes, variegated all over. The same cattle, fowl, and fish are produced here that are found in the isle of Skye. There is a law observed by the natives that all their fishing lines must be of equal length, for the longest is always supposed to have best access to the fish, which would prove a disadvantage to such as might have shorter ones.
There are some forts in this isle, the highest is in the south end; it is a natural strength, and in form like the crown of a hat; it is called Dun-Cann, which the natives will needs have to be from one Canne, cousin to the king of Denmark. The other lies on the side, is an artificial fort, three stories high, and is called Castle Vreokle.[36]
Brochel Castle, as it is more commonly known, was built by the MacSweens in the 15th century on the north-east coast of Raasay. Latterly, it became a base for the MacLeod of Lewis'spirating activities prior to Calum Garbh's investiture there. The castle was inhabited until the death by drowning of the Chief Iain Garbh in 1671 and is now a ruin sitting atop a pinnacle. In the meantime the Macleods moved their seat to Raasay House at the south end of the island.[3][37]
Although Protestant, the MacLeods of Raasay supportedBonnie Prince Charlie during and after theJacobite rising of 1745. After the defeat at theBattle of Culloden, the Prince spent 2 days hiding from the British troops on Raasay.[38][39] In conversation with Malcolm MacLeod of Raasay during his short stay on the island the Prince confided that although his life on the run was hard, he would rather live that way for ten years than be captured as he feared assassination. He seemed less aware of the risks his supporters ran. The atrocities perpetrated in the aftermath of Culloden were a shock to him. OfCumberland he said: "Surely that man who calls himself a duke and pretends to be so great a general cannot be guilty of such cruelties. I cannot believe it."[40]
According to a 20 October 1752 letter toRobert Forbes by theLaird of Raasay, as a consequence of the island's support for theJacobite cause and for having granted hospitality to the prince, the island was subjected toscorched earth tactics during two visits in July 1746 by troops of theCampbell of Argyll Militia under the command of GeneralJohn Campbell and theRoyal Navy crew ofHMS Furnace under the command of Captain John Fergussone.[citation needed] One witness account states that the original Raasay House and many other dwellings were burnt down, all the islanders' livestock were confiscated and slaughtered, and two women were assaulted.[41] The Laird was afterwards taken prisoner by Captain Fergussone, transported aboard theFurnace to London, and held aboard aprison hulk anchored in theRiver Thames.[41] The Laird's allegations are also confirmed by a still extant letter from Captain Fergussone to his naval superior, CommodoreThomas Smith, and by a brief entry in theFurnace'sship's log, "Set Raasa Isle afire."[42]
In 1773James Boswell andSamuel Johnson arrived on the island during theirHebridean tour. They visited Raasay House and Johnson wrote:
Our reception exceeded our expectations. We found nothing but civility, elegance, and plenty. After the usual refreshments, and the usual conversation, the evening came upon us. The carpet was then rolled off the floor; the musician was called, and the whole company was invited to dance, nor did ever fairies trip with greater alacrity. The general air of festivity, which predominated in this place, so far remote from all those regions which the mind has been used to contemplate as the mansions of pleasure, struck the imagination with a delightful surprise, analogous to that which is felt at an unexpected emersion from darkness into light.
When it was time to sup, the dance ceased, and six and thirty persons sat down to two tables in the same room. After supper the ladies sung Erse songs, to which I listened as an English audience to an Italian opera, delighted with the sound of words which I did not understand.[43]
Boswell went exploring and described the island as follows:
Having resolved to explore the island of Rasay, which could be done only on foot, I last night obtained my fellow-traveller’s permission to leave him for a day, he being unable to take so hardy a walk. Old Mr Malcolm M’Cleod, who had obligingly promised to accompany me, was at my bedside between five and six. I sprang up immediately, and he and I, attended by two other gentlemen, traversed the country during the whole of this day. Though we had passed over not less than four-and-twenty miles of very rugged ground, and had a Highland dance on the top of Dùn Can, the highest mountain in the island, we returned in the evening not at all fatigued, and piqued ourselves at not being outdone at the nightly ball by our less active friends, who had remained at home.
My survey of Rasay did not furnish much which can interest my readers; I shall therefore put into as short a compass as I can, the observations upon it, which I find registered in my journal. It is about fifteen English miles long, and four broad. On the south side is the laird’s family seat, situated on a pleasing low spot. The old tower of three stories, mentioned by Martin, was taken down soon after 1746, and a modern house supplies its place. There are very good grass-fields and corn-lands about it, well dressed. I observed, however, hardly any inclosures, except a good garden plentifully stocked with vegetables, and strawberries, raspberries, currants, &c.[44]
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In 1843 the last laird, John Macleod, was deep in debt and chose to emigrate toTasmania[37] having sold Raasay for 35,000 guineas toGeorge Rainy. After theHighland Potato Famine of the 1840s, the new owner decided to convert as much arable land as possible to large scalesheep farming. This required the removal of the islanders, and his solution was to ban marriage. Several townships werecleared including most of the inhabited areas of the east coast.Hallaig was emptied in 1852-54 and the ruins of at least 25 buildings remain visible.[45] North and South Screapadal are further north and contained at least 30 buildings when still inhabited.[46][47] Two boatloads of emigrants left for Portland in Australia in 1854 as a result, and another 165 left for the same destination in 1865. The estate was then sold to Edward Wood, and conflicts between the laird and the islanders grew as he decided to turn the island over to sporting purposes.[48] Near Oskaig, there is a row of six houses which are known as Manitoba.[49] Locals believe that this was a gathering place for people about to embark on emigrating to Canada in the late 19th century.
On 20 September 1862 the steamshipIrishman ran aground on "Skernataid Rock" between Raasay andScalpay. A 9.2 m (30 ft 2 in) vesselSpindrift is also recorded as having become jammed under the ferry pier at the sound end of the island and broken in two by the rising tide at an unspecified date.[50][d]
William Baird and Company signed a deed to purchase the estate of the Island of Raasay on 28 December 1910. The sale completed on 15 May 1911.[51]
In May 1921, a group of crofters from Rona landed on Raasay and attempted tore-occupy their ancestral land. These so-called "Raasay Raiders" were arrested, tried and given prison sentences, but public support for them was strong and they were eventually freed and allowed to remain on Raasay.
The island was purchased by the government in 1922 after the mine closed. In 1949 TheForestry Commission was granted land bringing much-needed employment, and in 1956 TheNorth of Scotland Hydro-Electric Board delivered mains electricity to the island.[52] The power was generated byStorr Lochs Hydro-Electric Scheme, which was commissioned in 1952 and upgraded in 1956. Local residents and invited guests met at Balmeanach, on Skye, on 14 March 1956. Major General Harry Macdonald, who owned the Braes estate, operated the switch, and rockets were fired from Raasay to confirm that electricity had arrived through the undersea cable, which ran from An Aird in Braes to Suishnish. The guests were then transported to Raasay in fishing boats to complete the celebrations.[53] In the 1960s Raasay House and various other properties were purchased by John Green, a doctor residing in Sussex who visited the island only once and whose lack of interest in it earned him thesobriquet "Dr No". Having purchased the property for £8,000 he sold it to theHighlands and Islands Development Board in 1979 for £135,000.[3][37][54][55]
Nicolson reported an earlybloomery on the island.[56] The next record of ironstone on Raasay was by HB Woodward in 1893.[57] Stead investigated the outcrop in 1909 and the subsequent analysis by Tatlock convinced Baird's to buy the island the following year (with completion in 1912).[58]
Baird's original plan was for a railway from the outcrop site down to just south of Suisnish point[e] with the erection of five kilns. Objections led to the plan being revised for two kilns further south, where the current pier is.[51] This pier was a public pier with landing charges regulated by government order.[59] By the outbreak of war Baird's had completed the pier (constructed byRobert McAlpine & Sons), kilns, railway and "other works".[60][61]
To house the workforce Baird's planned the village of Inverarish Houses, today known as Inverarish Terrace. The village consists of two facing rows of houses, each row being two terraces of 16 houses each. Between the terraces is a broad open area. Numbers 1–32 are the western row, 33–64 the eastern. The lower, southern terraces were built first (1–16 and 33–48) between 1912 and 1913. The first terraces were stone built and by 1914–15 were about half occupied.[60] By the time of the 1915–16 valuation some of numbers 1–16 were unoccupied, just over half of numbers 33–48 were occupied and the newly built brick terrace of numbers 17–32 were also vacant.[62] The unoccupied houses were caused by many of the labour force being called to the colours.
With the introduction ofunrestricted submarine warfare in 1916 the Ministry of Munitions became concerned about the availability of foreign iron ore.[63] Baird's were one company amongst others which opened up domestic mines in order to supply the war effort. In May 1916 Baird's signed an agreement to run the mine on behalf of the Ministry, although there was a minor skirmish over the amount of processing to be done on the island.[64] This northern part of the village was converted into aprisoner-of-war camp by the simple expedient of building a barbed wire fence around it and erecting sentry boxes and arc lamps at the corners. The first prisoners were on the island by June and were housed in the upper part of the village, numbers 17–32 and the now completed 49–64.[62]
| Year | 1780 | 1803 | 1841 | 1881 | 1891 | 1931 | 1961 | 1981 | 1991 | 2001 | 2011 | 2022[2] |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Population | 400 + | 900 + | 676 | 532 | 489 | 377 | 223 | 152 | 163 | 194 | 161 | 187 |
In 2001 Raasay had the lowest percentage of children of any populatedScottish island,[3] and the island's population fell by over 16% since that time to the date of the2011 census.[65][66] During the same periodScottish island populations as a whole grew by 4% to 103,702.[67] With 36% in the 2001 census there was still a relatively high density of Gaelic speakers (down from over 75% in 1901 and 1921).[68] By 2022 the population had risen a little again to 187.[2]
John MacKay, born on Raasay in 1767, was supported by the MacLeod Chief as the foremost islandpiper of his day and an inheritor of theMacCrimmon tradition. His sonAngus published a collection ofpibroch music instaff notation and was the firstPiper to the Sovereign.[37]
The poetSorley MacLean was born in Osgaig, a small crofting community on the west coast of the island; perhaps his most famous poem is aboutHallaig, an abandoned community on the east coast. MacLean's writings often combine an ancient traditional awareness, with a modernist political outlook, in which Raasay, and the areas adjacent to it are frequently referenced. But while MacLean's work dwells on the brutality of war, of theHighland Clearances and modern exploitation, he also writes about nature. Thus, although the Clearances leave an empty landscape populated only by the ghosts of those evicted or forced to emigrate, "Time, the deer, is in the Wood of Hallaig".[69]
The two miles (3 km) of road between Brochel Castle and Arnish were built using hand-tools byCalum MacLeod over ten years. Only when complete was the road surfaced by the local council; by then Calum and his wife were the last inhabitants of Arnish.Calum's Road has been commemorated in music both byCapercaillie on their 1988 albumThe Blood is Strong[70] and byRunrig inWall of China from the albumThe Stamping Ground, as well as in a book byRoger Hutchinson.[71] The BBC Radio 4 dramaCalum's Road, based on Hutchinson's book and dramatised byColin MacDonald, was first broadcast on 5 October 2013 starringIan McDiarmid as Calum MacLeod.[72]
The composer SirHarrison Birtwistle lived on Raasay from 1975 to 1983.[73] HisDuets for Storab, takes its name from Storab, a Viking prince who was shipwrecked and sought refuge on Raasay.[74] Birtwistle's string quartet,The Tree of Strings, written in 2007, takes its title from a poem by Sorley MacLean.[75]
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