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Punk fashion

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Fashion of punk subculture

Punk fashion circa 1986, a hairstyle with dyed redliberty spikes
Punks in leather jackets with spikes and pin badges, 2003

Punk fashion is theclothing,hairstyles,cosmetics,jewellery, andbody modifications of thepunk counterculture. Punk fashion varies widely, ranging fromVivienne Westwood designs to styles modeled on bands likethe Exploited to the dressed-down look of North American hardcore. The distinct social dress of other subcultures and art movements, includingglam rock,skinheads,greasers, andmods have influenced punk fashion. Punk fashion has likewise influenced the styles of these groups, as well as those ofpopular culture. Many punks use clothing as a way of making a statement.[1]

The early, pre-fame work of designerVivienne Westwood helped pioneer the look of early British punk with her scene-establishing clothing shopsSex andSeditionaries in the mid-1970s, co-run withMalcolm McLaren who managed theSex Pistols. Westwood was asked by then-partner McLaren to outfit the Sex Pistols, and Westwood's designs found a canvas on Johnny Rotten and Sid Vicious.[2] Her early work with Sex and the Sex Pistols helped to establish her as one of the most influential British designers of the 20th century.[3]

Punk fashion has long been commercialized,[4] with well-established fashion designers likeZandra Rhodes,[5][6][7]Thierry Mugler,[8][9]Jean Paul Gaultier,[10][11]Stephen Sprouse,[12][13] andAnna Sui[14][15] using punk elements in their production and the first punk-influenced fashion spreads appearing in mainstream fashion magazines as early as 1976.[16]

History

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1970s

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A punk wearing a customized blazer, as was popular in the early punk scene

Punk rock was an intentional rebuttal of the perceived excess and pretension found in mainstream music (or even mainstream culture as a whole), and early punk artists' fashion was defiantly anti-materialistic. Bands that had been at the forefront of the wave of rebellion, likethe Rolling Stones andthe Beatles, had become 'respectable', having achieved worldwide renown and subsequent wealth.Arena rock groups of the early 70's, with long, drawn out songs rooted in the psychedelic movement, were viewed as out-of-touch by fans who were much less economically successful. A desire for music to reflect their values of dissatisfaction and alienation began to develop.[17] Generally unkempt, often short hairstyles replaced the long-hair hippie look and the usually elaborate 1970s rock anddisco styles. In the United States, dirty, simple clothes – ranging from the T-shirt/jeans/leather jacketRamones look to the low-class, second-hand "dress" clothes of acts likeTelevision orPatti Smith – were preferred over the expensive or colorful clothing popular in the disco scene.[18] With her designs forThe Rocky Horror Show (1973) andThe Rocky Horror Picture Show (1975),Sue Blane is credited with creating the look that became the template for punk rock fashion.[19]

In the United Kingdom, 1970s punk fashion influenced the designs ofVivienne Westwood andMalcolm McLaren[20] and theBromley Contingent. Mainstream punk style was influenced by clothes sold in Malcolm McLaren's shop,[21]artdesigncafe. McLaren has credited this style to his first impressions ofRichard Hell, while McLaren was inNew York City working withNew York Dolls. Hell is credited as one of the first to help popularize the stereotypical 'punk' look, spiking his hair and wearing t-shirts that were held together with safety pins.[22] Punk fashion aimed to provoke and challenge middle class culture, often through vulgarity, illicit iconography, and sexual innuendos, among other means. Deliberately offensiveT-shirts were popular in the early punk scene, such as theDESTROY T-shirt sold atSEX, which featured aninverted crucifix and aNaziSwastika. Another offensive T-shirt that is still occasionally seen in punk is calledSnow White and the Sir Punks, and features Snow White being held down and raped by five of the seven dwarfs, whilst the other two engage in anal sex. The image's origin is as part ofThe Realist magazine'sDisneyland Memorial Orgy poster in May 1967, although the T-shirts made the scene more explicit.[23] These T-shirts, like other punk clothing items, were often torn on purpose. Other items in early British punk fashion included: leather jackets; customisedblazers; and dress shirts randomly covered in slogans (such as "Only Anarchists are pretty"), blood, patches and controversial images.

British punks also used fashion as a means to criticize the monarchy; Westwood'sGod Save the Queen shirt featured an image ofQueen Elizabeth II alongside text reading "She ain't no human being", taken directly from theSex Pistol's single of the same name. While the band has denied that the single was produced specifically in reaction to the Queen'sSilver Jubilee, the song and Westwood's design were viewed as an affront to British values of patriotism and the monarchy.

Many early punks wore swastikas and used Nazi imagery in their dress. As a means to provoke people, the symbol retained great power to alarm. Key examples of punk usage of Nazi symbols can be identified in Westwood'sDESTROY t-shirt which was worn by members of the Sex Pistols, or a dress shirt which featured striping similar to those on the uniforms worn by prisoners inconcentration camps. Sid Vicious wore a t-shirt featuring a swastika while he walked through a Jewish neighbourhood in the filmThe Great Rock and Roll Swindle. With the resurgence of Britain'sNational Front, those who wore the swastika discredited the anti-racist values of the movement.[17]

Other accoutrements worn by some punks included:BDSM fashions,fishnet stockings (sometimes ripped), spike bands and other studded or spiked jewelry,safety pins (in clothes and asbody piercings), silver bracelets and heavy eyeliner worn by both men and women. Many female punks rebelled against the stereotypical image of a woman by combining clothes that were delicate or pretty with clothes that were considered masculine, such as combining aBallet tutu with big, clunky boots.[citation needed] Female exemplars of early punk style includedPamela Rooke aka Jordan,[24]Siouxsie Sioux,Soo Catwoman,[25] andGaye Advert.[26]

Punk clothing sometimes incorporated everyday objects for aesthetic effect. Many outfits were made out pieces of clothing that were readily available, either from secondhand stores or whatever kids had on hand.[27] Emphasizing aDIY ethos, many punks utilized jean and leather jackets as canvases for pins, paint, and spikes.[28] Purposely ripped clothes were held together by safety pins or wrapped with tape; blackbin liners (garbage bags) became dresses, shirts and skirts. Mohair, PVC, and other odd, anachronistic elements of fashion were utilized in outfits.[29] Other items added to clothing or as jewellery included razor blades and chains.Leather,rubber andvinyl clothing have been common, possibly due to their connection with transgressivesexual practices, such asbondage andS&M. Provocative imagery referencing sexual practices and deviant forms of sexuality were utilized, such as in Vivienne Westwood'sTwo Cowboys shirt, which featured an illustration byJim French of two cowboys naked from the waist down, one of them fixing the other's neckerchief. Its depiction of homosexuality was provocative within a middle-class British culture that was hostile to sexual relations alternate to heterosexuality.[30]

Preferred footwear included military boots,motorcycle boots,brothel creepers, Puma Clydes (suede),Chuck Taylor All-Stars and later,Dr. Martens boots. Taperedjeans, tight leather pants, trousers with leopard patterns andbondage pants were popular choices. Other early punks (most notablythe Adicts) imitated theDroogs from A Clockwork Orange by wearingbowler hats andbraces. Hair was cropped and deliberately made to look messy, and was often dyed bright unnatural colours. Although provocative, these hairstyles were not as extreme as later punk hairstyle.

Keen designers, much like Westwood, had been able to draw inspiration from the punk style found on the streets, translating its anarchic frustration and resistance to the runways.[31] Zandra Rhodes utilized rips, tears and safety pins in her 1977 'Conceptual Chic' collection; similarly, Claude Montana presented 12 models in "black leather jackets, caps, and pants in 1977. As it gained popularity on the runway, many designers viewed its origin on the streets as 'trashy' and that it no longer served as a source of fresh inspiration.[32] Fashion designers ended up creating a standardized palette where the punk look was, more or less, essentially uniform. Spiky hair, jeans or bondage trousers, leather jackets with slogans, pins, and patches on them, T-shirts, studs and chains all became hallmarks of the look, undermining the individuality that had been essential to the movement.[33]

1980s

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Early 1980s punk fashion

In the 1980s, new fashion styles developed as parallel resurgences occurred in theUnited States andUnited Kingdom. What many recognize as typical punk fashions today emerged from the 1980s British scene, when punk underwent itsOi!/street punk andUK82 renaissance. The US scene was exemplified byhardcore bands such asBlack Flag,Minor Threat, andFear. The 1980s American scene spawned a utilitarian anti-fashion that was nonetheless raw, angry, and intimidating. However, elements of the 1970s punk look never fully died away.

Some of the following clothing items were common on both sides of theAtlantic Ocean, and some were unique to certain geographic areas. Footwear that was common in the 1980s punk scene includedDr. Martens boots,motorcycle boots andcombat boots; sometimes adorned withbandanas, chains or studded leather bands.Jeans (sometimes dirty, torn or splattered with bleach) andtartankilts or skirts were commonly worn. Leather skirts became a popular item for female punks. Heavy chains were sometimes used as belts. Bullet belts, and studded belts (sometimes more than one worn at a time) also became common.

Some punks boughtT-shirts orplaidflannel shirts and wrote political slogans, band names or other punk-related phrases on them withmarker pens. While this was not without precedent in the 1970s, the depth and detail of these slogans were not fully developed until the 1980s. Silkscreened T-shirts with band logos or other punk-related logos or slogans were also popular. Studded, painted and otherwise customised leather jackets or denim vests became more popular during this era, as the popularity of the earlier customized blazers waned, somewhat.

Hair was either shaved, spiked or in acrew cut orMohawk hairstyle. Tall mohawks and spiked hair, either bleached or in bright colors, took on a more extreme character than in the 1970s.Charged hair, in which all of one's hair stands on end but is not styled into distinct spikes, also emerged. A hairstyle similar tothe Misfits'devilocks was popular. This involved cutting a mohawk but leaving a longer tuft of hair at the front of the head. It is still popular to this day in thehorror punk scene. Body piercings and extensivetattoos became very popular during this era, as did spike bands and studded inchokers. Some hardcore punk women reacted to the earlier 1970s movement'scoquettish vibe by adopting an androgynous style.

Hardcore punk fans adopted adressed-down style of T-shirts, jeans, combat boots orsneakers and crewcut-style haircuts. Women in the hardcore scene typically wore army pants, band T-shirts, and hooded sweatshirts.[34][35]

The style of the 1980s hardcore scene contrasted with the more provocative fashion styles of late 1970s punk rockers (elaboratehairdos, torn clothes, patches, safety pins, studs, spikes, etc.).Circle Jerks frontmanKeith Morris described early hardcore fashion as "the...punk scene was basically based on English fashion. But we had nothing to do with that.Black Flag and the Circle Jerks were so far from that. We looked like the kid who worked at the gas station or submarine shop."[36]Henry Rollins echoes Morris' point, stating that for him getting dressed up meant putting on a black shirt and some dark pants; Rollins viewed an interest in fashion as being a distraction.[37]

Jimmy Gestapo fromMurphy's Law describes his own transition from dressing in a punk style (spiked hair and a bondage belt) to adopting a hardcore style (shaved head and boots) as being based on needing more functional clothing.[35] A scholarly source states that "hardcore kids do not look like punks", since hardcore scene members wore basic clothing and short haircuts, in contrast to the "embellished leather jackets and pants" worn in the punk scene.[38] In contrast to Morris' and Rollins' views, one scholarly source claims that the standard hardcore punk clothing and styles included torn jeans, leather jackets, spiked armbands and dog collars andmohawk hairstyles and DIY ornamentation of clothes with studs, painted band names, political statements, and patches.[39] Another scholarly source describes the look that was common in the San Francisco hardcore scene as consisting of biker-style leather jackets, chains, studded wristbands, pierced noses and multiple piercings, painted or tattooed statements (e.g. an anarchy symbol) and hairstyles ranging from military-style haircuts dyed black or blonde, mohawks, and shaved heads.[40]

Different styles

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Various factions of the punk subculture have different fashion styles, although there is often crossover between the subgroups. The following are descriptions of some of the most common punk styles, categorized alphabetically.

Anarcho-punk

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Anarcho-punk bandTotal Chaos in all-black clothing, 2008

Anarcho-punk fashion usually features all-black militaristic clothing, a style that was pioneered by the English punk bandCrass.[41] A prominent feature is the heavy use of anarchist symbols and slogans on clothing items. Some who define themselves as anarcho-punks opt to wear clothing similar to traditional punk fashions or that of crust punks, but not often to the extreme of either subculture. Mohawk hairstyles and liberty spikes are seen. Tight trousers, bands T-shirts and boots are common. Hairstyling products often are used only if the company that manufactures it did not test them on animals. Leather often avoided due toveganism, may be replaced with imitation leather or cloth in a similar design as leather products.

Celtic punk

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Fans ofCeltic punk often mixhardcore,street punk,Oi! andskinhead fashions with traditional Irish or Scottish clothing styles, including elements ofhighland dress.[42] Common items include boots, sneakers, jeans, work trousers,kilts,grandfather shirts,T-shirts,hoodies,braces, blackleather jackets,peacoats,donkey jackets,football shirts,flat caps,tuques,Tam O'Shanter caps andTrilby hats. Hair is usually cut relatively short.[42]

Cowpunk

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Main article:Cowpunk

The cowpunk clothing style is a stereotypicalU.S. rural,working class,western wear form of dress. Cowpunks may wear anything from a vintagewestern wear look, includingchecked shirts, biboveralls,worn jeans, andcowboy boots, to a more industrial look withwifebeater shirts,trucker hats, andwork boots. Women's hair follows no single style, but men can have anything from acrew cut to long hair, or the exaggeratedquiff pompadour hairstyle. Facial hair is also common.[43]

Crust punk

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Main article:Crusties
A group of crust punk fans or "crusties"

Crust punk can be traced back to Bristol (UK). In the late 1970s and early 1980s, Bristol bands like Disorder, Chaos UK, Lunatic Fringe, Amebix, broke from the usual punk fashion confines, creating a disheveled DIY look originating in squatting and poverty. Typical crust punk fashion includes black orcamouflage trousers or shorts (heavy work pants are popular for their durability), torn band T-shirts or hoodies,skin tight black jeans,vests and jackets (commonly black denim), bullet belts, jewellery made from hemp or found objects, and sometimesbum flaps. Many items of clothing are covered in patches and/or metal studs. Often, the patches display a political message. Clothing tends to be unsanitary by conventional standards, anddreadlocks are popular.[44]

Crust punks sometimes sew articles of clothing with found or cheaply bought materials, such as dental floss. Pants are sometimes held up withstring,hemp, or vegan-friendly imitation leather. This fashion has also been used byFolk Punk fans and musicians, notablyDays N Daze,Blackbird Raum, andThe Psalters.[44]

Dance-punk

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Dance-punk fashions includeday-glo colors,phat pants,glowsticks, leather studded jackets, chains andcombat boots. Typical haircuts includespiky hair bleached blond, short mohawks and syntheticdreadlocks.[citation needed]

Dark cabaret and Gypsy punk

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Fans ofdark cabaret andGypsy punk often imitate the costumes of 1920smusic hall, sideshow orburlesque performers, pejoratively referred to by some modern critics as "once fashionable trash."[45][self-published source?] Women such as Amanda Palmer of theDresden Dolls sometimes combinefetish wear such asgarter belts,fishnetstockings orcorsets with dress clothing, such as atop hat andtailcoat, or traditionalRomani dress such asshawls,[46]hoop earrings or colorful skirts. Men often wear vintageBowler hats, batteredfedoras,tweed cloth vests with more typical street punk fashions such asdrainpipe trousers or heavy boots. Some artists, includingMartyn Jacques of theTiger Lillies, wear white makeup inspired by Frenchmime artists and theEmcee fromCabaret.[47]

Garage punk

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Contemporary garage punk bandMudhoney

Garage punk bands of the 1970s likeMC5,Iggy and the Stooges,the Flamin' Groovies and theRamones often wore secondhand clothing from the mid-late 1960s, such as velvet jackets, slim-fitting grey suits, blackleather jackets,winklepickers anddrainpipe jeans, in reaction to theflared trousers worn byhippies anddisco fans.[48] Their hair was generally worn long, as was then fashionable in the 1970s, but some fans opted forbuzzcuts orCaesar cuts, previously associated withhard mods andbootboys. Following the 1980sgarage rock revival, garage punk bands tended to dress more casually, with less overtly 1960s clothing. However, the original garage punk look remained a big influence among Britishindie rock groups during the mid and late-2000s.[49][50]

Glam punk

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Contemporary to the garage bands of the early 1970s,glam punk fashion, pioneered by bands like theNew York Dolls,[51] includesglitter, androgynous make-up, brightly dyed hair,drainpipe jeans, bright colours likeelectric blue, elements of leatherfetish wear, and unusual costumes like leopard print,spandex, orsatin shirts. Leftoverbaroque pop clothing like ruffledpirate shirts or brocade were also worn, together with more typicalglam rock fashions likeplatform boots,tartan,kipper ties, and metallic silver clothing likejumpsuits.[52]

Hardcore punk

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There are several styles of dress within thehardcore scene, and styles have changed since the genre started ashardcore punk in the late 1970s. What is fashionable in one branch of the hardcore scene may be frowned upon in another; however, generally, personal comfort and the ability tomosh during the heavily physical, frenetic, and energetic live hardcore punk shows are highly influential in this style. For this reason, jewellery, spikes, chains and spiky hair are more uncommon and discouraged in hardcore fashion. Ultimately, hardcore punk fashion is usually more understated, working class, and casual compared to some more elaborate punk styles, in part as a response to the physical demands of hardcore punk shows and in part as a working class or more "authentic" backlash response against the perceived increasingly fashion-oriented or pretentious developments within the established punk scene.

Plainworking class dress and short hair[53] (with the exception ofdreadlocks) are usually associated with hardcore punk. Mute colors and minimal adornment are usually common. Elements of hardcore clothing include baggy jeans or work pants (such asDickies),khakis or cargo pants, athletic wear,tracksuits, cargo or military shorts, band T-shirts, plain T-shirts, muscle shirts,flannel orplaid shirts, and bandhoodies. Theleather jackets anddenim jackets associated with punk fashion remain common in hardcore punk, though hardcore punk also prominently featuresbomber jackets andtrack jackets unlike other punk fashions. Common sneakers include classicAdidas Originals,Asics,Converse,New Balance,Nike,Pony,Puma,Reebok,Saucony andVans. Boots are also somewhat common, especiallyDr. Martens.

Hardcore skinheads, sometimes known as "American punk skinheads," are characterised by some of the same items as British skinhead fashion, but hardcore skinhead dress is considerably less strict thantraditional skinhead oroi! skinhead style.[citation needed]

Horror punk and deathrock

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Death-rockers in 2007

Horror punk anddeathrock fashions are similar togoth fashion. Black is the predominant shade. Deathrock and horror punk incorporate "sexy" items such as fishnet stockings, corsets and elaborate make-up for men and women. The use of occult and horror imagery is prevalent on T-shirts, buttons, patches and jewellery. Other common adornments include band names painted on jackets or bleached into clothes, as well as buttons or patches indicating cities. The initials D and R (forDeath Rock) is sometimes part of a crossbones logo, accompanied by other initials, such as C and A for California, N and Y for New York, or G and R for Germany. Hair may be in a deathhawk style (a wider teased-out variant of themohawk hairstyle), an angledbangs style, or adevilock style.[citation needed]

Pop punk

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Pop punk fashion, sometimes overlaps with skater punk fashion. Originally this consisted of black ortartan baggy pants (sometimes fitted with studs and eyelets), band hoodies, wristbands,patrol caps, pyramid stud belts, dress shirts with thin ties or scarves,blazers and spiky hair or fauxhawks. In themid-2000s, pop-punk fashion, influenced byindie rock,hip hop andemo fashions, evolved to include cartoon printhoodies,Converse shoes,keffiyehs andskinny jeans.Spiky hair was gradually replaced by skater styles with long fringes orbangs. In the 2010s,pop punk fans took on a more hardcore look, with shorter hair (includingLiberty spikes and a wideMohawk combined with a fringe), plainhoodies and straight-leg jeans.[citation needed]

Psychobilly

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Contemporary psychobilly band theHorrorpops

Psychobilly fashion combines elements of punk with 1950sGreaser and BritishTeddy Boy fashions.Brothel creepers are frequently worn, as well as leather jackets, gas-station shirts, black or white retro T-shirts, dark-colored drape jackets and vintage motorcycle/work boots. Hair consists of aquiff,pompadour or psychobilly wedge, usually with the sides shaved into a mohawk. Clothing is usually adorned with motifs inspired by classic American horror films or art-styles inspired byEd "Big Daddy" Roth. This subculture is strongly associated with theKustom Kulture movement.[citation needed]

Ska punk

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Ska punk fans typically dress in a style that mixes typicalska- or2 Tone-related fashions, with various types of punk fashions, includingstreet punk,pop punk,skate punk orhardcore punk.Braces are popular, as areHarrington jackets withroyal Stewart tartan lining, thin ties,Doc Martens,mohair suits,pork pie hats,tonik suits (especially in the early years of the 1980s ska revival),[54] tank tops,Ben Sherman orFred Perrypolo shirts,hoodies, andcheckerboard patterns. Hair is cropped very short in imitation ofhardcore punk bands and early 1960srude boys. as of 1990s and today many ska fans dressed out normally with regular or simple clothing.[55]

Skate punk

[edit]
Main article:Skate punk

Skate punk is a derivative of hardcore fashion and is chosen with comfort and practicality in mind. Commonskate punk clothing items include T-shirts, flannel button-down shirts, hooded sweatshirts, webbing belts, and khaki shorts, pants or jeans. Some punks, especially in Southern California, mirror Latino gang styles, including khakiDickies work pants, white T-shirts and coloredbandanas. While some skateboarders have long and messy hair, skate punks usually have short hair, often shaved into a buzzcut, and wear little jewelry.[citation needed]

Street punk and Oi!

[edit]

In general, contemporarystreet punks wear leather, denim, metal spikes or studs, chains and military-style boots. They often wear elements of early punk fashion, such askutten vests, bondage trousers (often plaid) and torn clothing.DIY-created and modified clothing, such as ripped or stitched-together trousers or shirts, or trousers that are tightly tapered, are common. Jackets and vests often have patches or are painted with logos that express musical tastes or political views. Bullet belts and belts with metal studs are popular. Hair is often spiked and/or dyed in bright, unnatural colors and arranged into amohawk orliberty spikes, but it is sometimes cut very short or shaved.

Oi!skinheads, sometimes known as skunks or punk-skinheads, fusetraditional skinhead style with street punk fashions. The look is characterised byDr. Martens boots (or similar boots made by a different brand),braces, and tight rolled-up jeans, sometimes splattered with bleach. Other common items are T-shirts (featuring band names, political beliefs or other text and images relevant to skinhead culture) and denim jackets orflight jackets. These jackets are sometimes decorated with buttons or patches, and in the case of the denim jackets, sometimes splattered with bleach. Hair is typically shaved shorter than withtraditional skinheads. Other items from traditional skinhead fashion (e.g.Fred Perry andBen Sherman shirts) and, to a lesser extent, punk fashion items (e.g. short mohawk hairstyles, metal studs on jackets) are also sometimes worn.[56]

Droog

[edit]

During the early 1980s, somestreet punks andOi!skinheads adopted elements of the dress style from the filmA Clockwork Orange.[57][58] On stage, bands likeThe Adicts,[59] or more recently The Bolokos and Japan's Hat Trickers,[60][61] often wearbowler hats, white shirts, white trousers,braces, and blackcombat boots in imitation of Alex De Large, the protagonist of the film and novel.[62] Some fans also wore fishtail coats, although more often they wore black leatherbiker jackets or long blackCrombie coats.[citation needed]

Rivethead

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Main article:Rivethead

A "rivethead" or "rivet head" is a person associated with theindustrial dance music scene.[63] In stark contrast to the originalindustrial culture, whose performers and heterogeneous audience were sometimes referred to as "industrialists", the rivethead scene is a coherentyouth culture closely linked to a discernible fashion style. The scene emerged in the late 1980s[64] on the basis ofelectro-industrial,EBM, andindustrial rock music. The associated dress style draws on military fashion and punk aesthetics[65] with hints offetish wear, mainly inspired by the scene's musical protagonists.

See also

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References

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Notes

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  1. ^Hudson, Alice (2016)."Understanding the Politics of Punk Clothing from 1976 to 1980 Using Surviving Objects and Oral Testimony"(PDF).University of Brighton (Dissertation). Archived fromthe original(PDF) on April 3, 2018. RetrievedFebruary 12, 2019.
  2. ^Andrew, Scottie."How Vivienne Westwood dressed the Sex Pistols and shaped punk".CNN. RetrievedApril 1, 2023.
  3. ^Price, Shannon."Vivienne Westwood (born 1941) and the Postmodern Legacy of Punk Style".The Met's Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. RetrievedApril 1, 2023.
  4. ^Hyde, Nina S. (January 1, 1978)."Fashion Notes".The Washington Post. RetrievedApril 4, 2022....[P]unk...has inspired the huge trash cans with shoulder ropes being sold...as trendy carryalls at New York's Fiorucci.
  5. ^Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1977".Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 356.ISBN 0-670-80172-0.1977: Rhodes presented a 'punk' collection of ripped, zipped and safety-pinned jersey evening dress...
  6. ^Hyde, Nina S. (October 29, 1977)."And Now 'Punk Chic'".The Washington Post.The French are not the first to exploit punk fashion. British fashion designer Zandra Rhodes incorporated rips and tears and safety pins into $600 silk crepe dresses a season back [spring 1977]. Stores like Sakowitz in Houston sold them 'rather well,' according to Robert Sakowitz, the store owner.
  7. ^Morris, Bernadine (September 17, 1977)."All Around Town, a Week of Lavish Couture Openings".The New York Times: 19. RetrievedApril 4, 2022....Zandra Rhodes, the British designer who transcribed the punk rock image into the idiom of high fashion....Zandra Rhodes...catapulted 'punk rock' to the fashion world's attention....The style is characterized by cutouts, safety pins and chains...In Miss Rhode's versions, there was not much of the aggressive, sadistic punk rock flavor.
  8. ^Hyde, Nina S. (October 24, 1977)."Thinking Big for Spring".The Washington Post. RetrievedFebruary 7, 2022.There is punk influence at Thierry Mugler, including a punk model with fluorescent yellow hair...
  9. ^Hyde, Nina S. (October 29, 1977)."And Now 'Punk Chic'".The Washington Post. RetrievedApril 4, 2022.At Thierry Mugler, black leather and safety-pin jewelry showed up on the runway worn by the cool, blonde [French punk icon] Edwige.
  10. ^Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1976-1986".Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 345.ISBN 0-670-80172-0....Jean-Paul Gaultier fused the showmanship of a couture training...with the design anarchy borrowed from London's streets...
  11. ^Cunningham, Bill (March 1, 1986). "Bright Spring Fashion Takes a Brave New Direction".Details.IV (8). New York, NY: 98.ISSN 0740-4921.Jean Paul Gaultier...defines the neo-punk yuppies.
  12. ^Cunningham, Bill (March 1, 1988). "Fashionating Rhythm".Details.VI (8). New York, NY: Details Publishing Corp.: 119.ISSN 0740-4921.Stephen Sprouse...continues to manipulate...the Sixties hippie and Seventies punk influences...
  13. ^Goodman, Wendy (September 21, 1987)."Stephen Sprouse Tries a Comeback with a Solid New Store".New York.20 (37): 139. RetrievedAugust 18, 2022.Stephen Sprouse...T-shirts printed with safety pins, skulls, and barbed wire; eleven-inch micro-skirts in...camouflage patterns;...dresses covered with gold safety pins...
  14. ^Nika, Colleen (September 14, 2011)."Exclusive: Anna Sui Discusses Her Spring 2012 Show and Punk Rock Heritage".rollingstone.com. Rolling Stone. RetrievedNovember 2, 2016.
  15. ^Drain, Kelsey (May 13, 2016)."Opening Ceremony, Anna Sui Capsule Collection Launches; Designer's '90s Pieces Reissued".fashiontimes.com. Fashion Times. Archived fromthe original on November 4, 2016. RetrievedNovember 2, 2016.
  16. ^Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1976".Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 353.ISBN 0-670-80172-0.1976: The punk image began to be covered in ItalianVogue, which featured page after page of black clothing worn with aggressive accessories: low-slung, studded belts, leather knuckle-dusters, dog chains, and wrap-around sunglasses. Hair was dishevelled and tied with black lace ribbons.
  17. ^abSimonelli, D. (June 1, 2002)."Anarchy, Pop and Violence: Punk Rock Subculture and the Rhetoric of Class, 1976-78".Contemporary British History.16 (2):121–144.doi:10.1080/713999447.ISSN 1361-9462.S2CID 143857096.
  18. ^"The Disco Lifestyle".socialdance.stanford.edu. RetrievedOctober 14, 2020.
  19. ^Thompson, Dave (February 1, 2016).The Rocky Horror Picture Show FAQ: Everything Left to Know About the Campy Cult Classic. Applause Theatre & Cinema Books. p. 1785.ISBN 978-1495007477.
  20. ^Kawamura, Y (2005).Fashion-ology : An Introduction to Fashion Studies. Oxford: Bloomsbury Publishing. p. 102.
  21. ^Walker, John."Malcolm McLaren & the sources of Punk".
  22. ^"Rip It to Shreds: A History of Punk and Style".Pitchfork. October 25, 2016. RetrievedApril 1, 2023.
  23. ^"Snow White & The Disneyland Memorial Orgy". Archived from the original on August 7, 2017. RetrievedAugust 7, 2017.
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