The first known European to explore and write about the area wasMartin Pring in 1603.[4] The Piscataqua River is a tidalestuary with a swift current, but forms a good natural harbor. The west bank of the harbor was settled by European colonists in 1630 and namedStrawbery Banke, after the many wildstrawberries growing there. The village was protected byFort William and Mary on what is nowNew Castle Island. Strategically located for trade between upstream industries andmercantile interests abroad, the port prospered. Fishing,lumber andshipbuilding were principal businesses of the region.[5]
Enslaved Africans wereimported as laborers as early as 1645 and were integral to building the city's prosperity.[6] Portsmouth participated in theTriangle Trade, which generated profits from slavery.
At the town's incorporation in 1653, it was named "Portsmouth" in honor of the colony's founder,John Mason. He had been captain of the English port ofPortsmouth,Hampshire, after which New Hampshire is named.Richard Martyn was one of the founders of the first church in Portsmouth, and served as Selectman, Representative to the General Court, Speaker of the House, and Chief Justice.
In 1774, in the lead-up to theRevolution,Paul Revere rode to Portsmouth warning that theBritishRoyal Navy was coming to capture the port.[7] AlthoughFort William and Mary protected the harbor, the Patriot government moved the capital inland toExeter to avoid threats from the Royal Navy, whichbombarded Falmouth (nowPortland, Maine) on October 18, 1775. Portsmouth served as a destination for several ofBeaumarchais's ships containingmateriel, such as artillery, tents, and gunpowder, to support the American revolutionary effort.[8]
African Americans participated in defending Portsmouth and New England during the war. In 1779, 19 enslaved African Americans from Portsmouth wrote apetition to the state legislature requesting the abolition of slavery, citing their war contributions and the principles of the Revolution.[6] The legislature tabled their petition. New Hampshire abolished slavery in 1857, by which time the institution was effectively extinct in the state.
When New Hampshire voted to ratify the new U.S. Constitution in 1788, it became the ninth and decisive state needed to establish the federal government. Portsmouth celebrated this historic moment with a grand parade featuring representatives from 78 different trades, reflecting the city's economic diversity and national significance.[9]
Thomas Jefferson's 1807embargo against American trade withBritain severely disrupted New England's trade withCanada, causing several local businessmen to go bankrupt. Portsmouth hosted numerousprivateers during theWar of 1812. In 1849, Portsmouth was incorporated as a city.[5]
Once one of the nation's busiest ports and shipbuilding cities, Portsmouth expressed its wealth through fine architecture. The city features significant examples ofColonial,Georgian, andFederal style houses, some of which now serve as museums. Portsmouth's downtown core consists of stately brick Federalist stores and townhouses, built uniformly after devastating early 19th-century fires. The most destructive fire occurred in 1813 when 244 buildings burned.[5] A fire district was subsequently created that required all new buildings within its boundaries to be built of brick withslate roofs, creating the downtown's distinctive appearance. The city was also noted for producing boldlywood-veneered federal-style (neoclassical) furniture, particularly by mastercabinet maker Langley Boardman.
In the 20th century, the city established a Historic District Commission to protect much of the city's architectural legacy. In 2008, theNational Trust for Historic Preservation named Portsmouth one of the "Dozen Distinctive Destinations".[10] The compact and walkable downtown on the waterfront attracts tourists and artists who frequent the cafes, restaurants and shops around Market Square. Portsmouth annually celebrates the revitalization of its downtown (particularly Market Square) with Market Square Day,[11] a celebration dating back to 1977, produced by the non-profit Pro Portsmouth, Inc.
During World War II, Portsmouth Municipal Airport was expanded and converted to military use, eventually becomingPease Air Force Base in 1956. Named after New Hampshire Medal of Honor recipient Captain Harl Pease Jr., theStrategic Air Command facility housed nuclear bombers including the renowned509th Bomb Wing during the Cold War era. The base served as a crucial component of America's nuclear deterrent until its closure in 1991 under theBase Realignment and Closure process.
The Portsmouth Naval Shipyard's contribution to submarine technology advanced significantly with the construction of the experimentalUSS Albacore in 1953. This revolutionary research submarine pioneered the teardrop hull design that became standard for all modern submarines and set world underwater speed records during its service until 1972. The vessel was designated aNational Historic Landmark and returned to Portsmouth as a museum in 1985.[12]
The city's emphasis on historic preservation and revitalization emerged from a period of significant destruction. Portsmouth's current walkable character results from its network of streets and dense blocks filled with preserved Revolution-era homes. However, like many cities throughout the region and nation, Portsmouth experiencedurban renewal, a federally funded planning initiative designed to address "urban blight" and revitalize downtown cores after decades of suburbanization and declining tax revenue. Portsmouth's urban renewal district encompassed the North End neighborhood, which, similar to Boston's North End, was home to a significant Italian-American population.[13]
In 1964, federal funds were allocated to the North End project area for urban renewal. Prior to redevelopment, the North End contained a mix of residential and commercial buildings, with many older houses converted into storefronts with apartments above. By the mid-1960s, the area was considered overcrowded, deteriorated, and a fire hazard. The Portsmouth Housing Authority proposed demolishing approximately 200 buildings, a school, and a church, with redevelopment planned for commercial, industrial, and public use rather than residential purposes. The project would have displaced approximately 300 families. In 1968, Portsmouth Preservation Inc., a preservation organization, was formed to save some of the historic building stock slated for redevelopment. After extensive advocacy efforts, only fourteen houses were saved and mostly relocated to an area now known as "The Hill".[13] This preservation effort marked the beginning of broader initiatives that eventually led to the creation of the aforementioned historic district.
Portsmouth's shipbuilding history has maintained a longsymbiotic relationship withKittery, Maine, across the Piscataqua River. In 1781–1782, naval heroJohn Paul Jones lived in Portsmouth while supervising construction of his shipRanger, which was built on nearbyBadger's Island in Kittery. During that time, he boarded at theCaptain Gregory Purcell house, which now bears Jones' name as the only surviving property in the United States associated with him. Built by masterhousewright Hopestill Cheswell, an African American,[14] it has been designated as aNational Historic Landmark and now serves as the Portsmouth Historical Society Museum.
ThePortsmouth Naval Shipyard, established in 1800 as the first federal navy yard, is located onSeavey's Island in Kittery, Maine.[15] The facility gained international prominence as the site of the 1905 signing of theTreaty of Portsmouth[16] which ended theRusso-Japanese War. Although U.S. PresidentTheodore Roosevelt orchestrated the peace conference that brought Russian and Japanese diplomats to Portsmouth and the Shipyard, he did not personally visit Portsmouth, relying instead on the Navy and people of New Hampshire to serve as hosts. Roosevelt received the 1906Nobel Peace Prize for his diplomatic efforts in ending the war.
According to theUnited States Census Bureau, the city has a total area of 16.8 square miles (43.6 km2), of which 15.7 square miles (40.6 km2) are land and 1.2 square miles (3.0 km2), or 6.92%, are water.[17] Portsmouth is drained by Berrys Brook, Sagamore Creek and thePiscataqua River, which is the boundary between New Hampshire andMaine. The highest point in the city is 110 feet (34 m) above sea level, within Pease International Airport.
According to theKöppen Climate Classification system, Portsmouth has awarm-summer humid continental climate, abbreviated "Dfb" on climate maps. The hottest temperature recorded in Portsmouth was 104 °F (40.0 °C) on August 2, 1975, while the coldest temperature recorded was −26 °F (−32.2 °C) on January 22, 1984.[18]
Climate data for Portsmouth, New Hampshire, 1991–2020 normals, extremes 1954–present
Portsmouth is the sole city in Rockingham County, but the fourth-largest municipality, with fewer people than the towns ofDerry,Londonderry, andSalem.
As of the census of 2010, there were 21,233 people, 10,014 households, and 4,736 families residing in the city. The population density was 1,361.1 people per square mile (525.5 people/km2). There were 10,625 housing units at an average density of 681.1 per square mile (263.0/km2). Theracial makeup of the city was 91.5%White, 1.7%African American, 0.2%Native American, 3.5%Asian, 0.01%Pacific Islander, 0.7% some other race, and 2.3% from two or more races.Hispanic or Latino of any race were 2.8% of the population.[22]
There were 10,014 households, out of which 20.2% had children under the age of 18 living with them, 35.5% were headed by married couples living together, 8.3% had a female householder with no husband present, and 52.7% were non-families. 39.2% of all households were made up of individuals, and 11.8% were someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average household size was 2.03, and the average family size was 2.75.[22]
In the city, the population was spread out, with 16.6% under the age of 18, 7.7% from 18 to 24, 32.2% from 25 to 44, 27.6% from 45 to 64, and 15.9% who were 65 years of age or older. The median age was 40.3 years. For every 100 females, there were 94.2 males. For every 100 females age 18 and over, there were 92.6 males.[22]
For the period 2010–2014, the city's estimated median annual household income was $67,679, and the median family income was $90,208. Male full-time workers had a median income of $58,441 versus $45,683 for females. The city'sper capita income for the city was $42,724. About 4.0% of families and 7.6% of the population were below thepoverty line, including 6.9% of those under age 18 and 7.1% of those age 65 or over.[23]
Heinemann USA is based in Portsmouth. Before its dissolution,Boston-Maine Airways (Pan Am Clipper Connection), a regional airline, was also headquartered in Portsmouth.[24]
ThePortsmouth Downtown Historic District encompasses the city's historic urban core and Market Square.[26] The city has a vibrant restaurant culture. In 2023, it was reported that the city had 36,000 restaurant seats for a population of 22,000.[27]
Street musicians perform across from North Church (July 2014)
USSAlbacore Museum & Park – a museum featuring theUSSAlbacore, a U.S. Navy submarine used for testing, which was decommissioned in 1972 and moved to the park in 1985. The submarine is open for tours.
Buckminster House – built in 1725, formerly a funeral parlor.[28][29]
Cabot Lyford four public sculptures – including "The Whale" and "My Mother the Wind," a seven-ton blank granite statue which was installed on Portsmouth's waterfront in 1975.[30]
Interior of Gilley's Diner Gilley's Diner – Known as Portsmouth's original diner, established in 1912 as a horse-drawn lunch wagon, and now housed in a 1940s lunch cart permanently located at 175 Fleet Street.[31]
New Hampshire Theatre Project – founded in 1986, a non-profit theater organization producing contemporary and classical works, and offering educational programs.[33]
North Church – historic church, the steeple of which is visible from most of Portsmouth
The Player's Ring Theater – a black-box theater that produces original work from local playwrights.
Pontine Theatre – produces original theater works based on the history, culture and literature of New England at their 50-seat black box venue.[34]
Portsmouth African Burying Ground – a memorial park and the only archeologically verified 18th-century African burying ground in New England.
Portsmouth Athenæum – a private membership library, museum and art gallery open to the public at certain times.
Portsmouth Harbor Lighthouse – first established in 1771, the current structure was built in 1878 and is open for monthly tours from May through September.
Portsmouth Historical Society – founded in 1917, includes museum galleries, a gift shop, welcome center, walking tours, and operates theJohn Paul Jones House.[35]
Prescott Park Arts Festival – summer entertainments in Portsmouth's waterfront park since 1974.[36]
Rockingham Hotel and the Library Restaurant – historic formerhotel and contemporary restaurant. Built in 1885, it is a prominent early example of Colonial Revival architecture.
Seacoast Repertory Theatre – founded in 1988, a professional theater troupe.[37]
Strawbery Banke Museum – a neighborhood featuring several dozen restored historic homes in Colonial, Georgian and Federal styles of architecture. The site of one of Portsmouth's earliest settlements.
Freedom Rugby Football Club is a men'srugby union team based in Portsmouth, founded in the summer of 2014. The club is an active member of USA Rugby and New England Rugby Football Union (NERFU).
The city of Portsmouth operates under a council-manager system of government. Portsmouth elects a nine-member at-large City Council to serve as the city's primary legislative body.[39] The candidate who receives the most votes is designated the Mayor (currently Deaglan McEachern), while the candidate receiving the second-highest vote total is designated the Assistant Mayor (currently Joanna Kelley). While the mayor and council convene to establish municipal policy, the City Manager (currently Karen Conard) oversees the city's day-to-day operations.[40]
Portsmouth city vote by party in presidential elections[41]
In March 2014, Portsmouth became the first municipality in New Hampshire to implement protections for city employees from discrimination on the basis of gender identity, by a 9–0 vote of the city council.[46]
TheCooperative Alliance for Seacoast Transportation (COAST) operates a publicly funded bus network in the Seacoast region of New Hampshire and neighboring Maine including service in, to and from Portsmouth.[48] C&J is a private intercity bus carrier connecting Portsmouth with coastal New Hampshire and Boston, as well as direct service to New York City.[49]Wildcat Transit, operated by theUniversity of New Hampshire, provides regular bus service to the UNH campus inDurham and intermediate stops. The service is free for students, faculty and staff and $1.50 for the general public.[50]Amtrak'sDowneaster train service, is available inDover andDurham, nearby to the northwest.Allegiant Air offers scheduled airline service fromPortsmouth International Airport at Pease (PSM).[51]
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