Port Moresby (/ˈmɔːrzbi/ⓘ;Tok Pisin:Pot Mosbi), also referred to asPom City or simplyMoresby, is the capital and largest city ofPapua New Guinea. It is one of the largest cities in the southwesternPacific (along withJayapura) outside of Australia and New Zealand. It is located on the shores of theGulf of Papua, on the south-western coast of thePapuan Peninsula of the island ofNew Guinea. The city emerged as a trade centre in the second half of the 19th century. DuringWorld War II, it was a prime objective for conquest by theImperial Japanese forces during 1942–43 as a staging point and air base to cut off Australia fromSoutheast Asia and theAmericas. Due to its population and outsized influence compared to other cities in Papua New Guinea, Port Moresby may be regarded as aprimate city.
As of the 2011 census, Port Moresby had 364,145 inhabitants. An unofficial 2020 estimate gives the population as 383,000.[2] The place where the city was founded has been inhabited by theMotu-Koitabu people for centuries. The first Briton to see it wasRoyal Navy CaptainJohn Moresby in 1873. It was named in honour of his father,Admiral of the Fleet SirFairfax Moresby.
Although Port Moresby is surrounded byCentral Province, of which it is also the capital, it is not part of that province but instead forms theNational Capital District. The traditional landowners, the Motu and Koitabu people, are represented by theMotu Koita Assembly.
Port Moresby hosted theAPEC summit in November 2018.[3] However, there were concerns about security, given the capital's reputation for violent crime.[3]
In February 1873, the territory was discovered by the crew ofHMSBasilisk, surveying the southern shore ofNew Guinea. CaptainJohn Moresby named the harbour in honour of his fatherFairfax Moresby and called the anchorage off Paga Hill "Port Moresby" on his charts.[4] Europeans estimated the local population to be around 2000 people.[5] The largest settlement,Hanuabada, consisted of five villages, populated byMotu andKoita people. The Motu were originally coastal dwellers, while the Koita came from the hills inland. There was significant intermarriage between these two groups. They were organised into units callediduhu, which are somewhat similar to clans.[6][7]
In November 1873, fourPolynesian teachers were sent to Port Moresby by the ReverendSamuel Macfarlane [fr] of theLondon Missionary Society. In November 1874, they were joined by the ReverendWilliam George Lawes, who immediately built a mission house at Metoreia, opposite Elevala Island. Port Moresby was an important centre of trade, visited by distant tribes of New Guinea, which the missionaries hoped would help them reach more people.[8][9]
In September 1877, a Pacific Islander working for the naturalist and collectorAndrew Goldie found signs of gold at the junction of the Laloki and Goldie Rivers, within walking distance of Port Moresby. Anticipating agold rush, entrepreneurWilliam Bairstow Ingham set off fromCooktown in January 1878 to set up a store at Port Moresby. Around 100 miners arrived since April, but most of them left by the end of the year, finding no gold and suffering from diseases.[10]
The annexation was rejected by the imperial authorities, which expected theAustralian colonies to share the expenses jointly. In May 1884, theEarl of Derby requested the colonies to provide £15,000 annually for the administration of New Guinea, which they agreed. On 10 October, CommodoreJames Erskine was cabled orders to proclaimthe protectorate over the south-eastern coast of New Guinea. Deputy Commissioner for the Western PacificHugh Romilly, who also received a telegram from Lord Derby, proclaimed the protectorate in a short statement at Port Moresby on 23 October. Unknown to him, Erskine was also on his way to the island. Commodore held a grand ceremony of his own on 6 November, leaving Romilly in charge of the protectorate.[11][9]
Special CommissionerPeter Scratchley arrived at Port Moresby in August 1885, choosing the site as a location for the colonial capital. In September, a plot of land to the south from Hanuabada was purchased for the government bungalow. Twenty-eight locals were paid a tomahawk, a handkerchief and half a pound of tobacco each.[8]
The administration began the policy of segregating non-indigenous residential areas, which continued until the early 1960s, and built a two-mile fence around the government land. In 1886, surveyor Walter Cuthbertson laid out agridiron plan for townships Granville West, extending between the harbour and Ela Beach, and Granville East, to the south from the government bungalow.[8][12] However, the settlement continued to be referred to as Port Moresby.[4] Special CommissionerJohn Douglas wrote in 1887: "Granville West has assumed the appearance of a small township. Mr. Goldie’s store is finished, and so are the Government Buildings, including the accommodation house, the customs house and post office, which at present does duty as a store, as well as the building erected."[8]
After 1888 annexation, urban development continued to be concentrated on the saddle between Paga and Tuaguba hills. There were about twenty residential buildings in 1897. Granville East was practically undeveloped, with a single house at the top of Lawes Road until the late 1920s.[8]
In 1905, the recently federatedAustralian government passed thePapua Act which came into effect in 1906. The act transferred Papua, with Port Moresby as its capital, to direct Australian rule. From then until 1941 Port Moresby grew slowly. The main growth was on the peninsula, where port facilities and other services were gradually improved. The first butcher's shop and grocery opened in 1909.[13] By 1912, Port Moresby was linked by radio to Thursday Island. From 1921 to 1925, Papua was under the effect of the Commonwealth Navigation Act, which practically restricted trade to a single company,Burns Philp, and a single port,Sydney.[8] Electricity was introduced in 1925.[14] In the early 1930s, regular air service was established betweenKila Airfield and Sydney.[8] Piped water supply was provided in 1941.[15]
The long-closedBurns Philp department store, in the mid-1990s having been used as a private school building
DuringWorld War II, some Papuan men enlisted in thePapua Infantry Battalion and others as carriers over trails and rough terrains (porters) as supply support toAllied andJapanese armies during long jungle marches.[16] HistorianWilliam Manchester outlines in his biography of GeneralDouglas MacArthur,American Caesar, that acting as porters was well down the natives' list of acceptable voluntary activities and that they would fade away without great inducements.[17] Many Papuan residents of Port Moresby either returned to their family villages or were evacuated to camps when the threat of Japanese invasion loomed. By September 1942, the city was an important Allied complex of bases, and thousands of troops were stationed in the area or more often, staged through it, as it was the last Allied bastion on the island[18][19] and, conversely, a key staging and jumping off point as the Allies began conducting offensive warfare themselves, pushing back the Japanese advances.[20] General MacArthur located his headquarters in Port Moresby from November 1942 to October 1944.[citation needed]
In 1945, theTerritory of Papua and New Guinea was formed whenPapua and the former German New Guinea, which had been administered by Australia since 1918, were amalgamated under a single Australian administration though several laws remained in two territories and remain so, which can be complicating with provinces sitting on two sides of the otherwise extinct boundary. Port Moresby became the capital of the new combined territory and a focal point for the expansion of public services. Port Moresby was granted city status in 1972, withOala Oala-Rarua becoming the first Lord Mayor.[21]
In September 1975, Papua New Guinea became an independent country with Port Moresby as its capital city. PrinceCharles, Prince of Wales, represented theQueen of Papua New Guinea at the celebrations.[22] New government, intellectual and cultural buildings were constructed in the suburb ofWaigani to supplement and replace those of downtown Port Moresby. They included those for government departments, including a National Parliament Building, which was opened in 1984 by Prince Charles and blends traditional design with modern building technology.[22]
ThePapua New Guinea National Museum and National Library are inWaigani. A mansion was built in Port Moresby just west of the old legislative building but the last pre-independence chief minister and first prime minister of the sovereign state declared it not nearly grand enough; it was made the residence of Australian high commissioners and a mansion suitable to Somare's demands was built in Waigani.[citation needed]
Several of the government buildings have been abandoned due to long-term neglect. Chief amongst these are Marea Haus (known to most locals as the "Pineapple Building") and the Central Government Offices.[citation needed] However, widespread restoration rather than demolition of long-disused office buildings has been highly active since the first decade of the 21st century.[citation needed] The legislative building before independence and the first parliament building is long-gone but the old court house in town Port Moresby remains, bearing its pre-independence label with its previous title.
The population of the Port Moresby area expanded rapidly after independence. In 1980, the census return registered a population of 120,000; by 1990, this had increased to 195,000.[23]
Moresby has atropical savanna climate (Köppen:Aw) with relatively constant temperatures throughout the year. Port Moresby's average yearly rainfall is 898.8 millimetres or 35.39 inches, making it the driest place in New Guinea.
Thewet season starts in December and ends in May; thedry season covers the remaining six months. This is due to the south-easterlytrade winds running parallel to the coast, and the city being surrounded by high mountains. The average high temperatures range from 28 to 32 °C (82.4 to 89.6 °F) depending on time of year, while the average low temperature shows very little seasonal variation, hovering around the 23 °C (73.4 °F) mark. It tends to be slightly cooler in the city during the dry season.
Walter Bay from hills immediately east of downtown Port MoresbyEla BeachCoastal housing at Hanuabada in Port Moresby
Port Moresby is the single district of theNational Capital District, which contains three Local Level Government (LLG) areas. Forcensus purposes, the LLG areas are subdivided into wards and those into census units.[27]
The National Capital District machinery of government also incorporates theMotu Koita Assembly, established by an act of parliament to represent the traditional landowners of Port Moresby, the Motu and Koitabu people. The Assembly governs the traditional lands and inhabitants of the ten recognised villages, and is the only entity of its kind in Papua New Guinea. The Chair of the Motu Koita Assembly also holds the position of Deputy Governor of the National Capital District.[citation needed]
Port Moresby refers to both the urbanised area of the National Capital District and more specifically to the main business area, known locally as "Town".[citation needed]
Since the 1990s the original town centre has ceased to have restaurants and night life, though it is very successful and prosperous-looking as an office centre. The affluent housing region north of downtown along and up from the coast remains so, though there are now few modest residential houses, most of which are replaced with substantial mansions and apartment buildings.[citation needed]
Al Jazeera describes Port Moresby as "one of the most dangerous cities in the world".[31]ABC Australia reports that "many homes have big fences covered in metal sheeting, locked gates and internal steel security doors."[32]Travel by foot is not recommended in and about the city and suburbs due to continuing breakdown in law and order. TheUN Global Compact Cities Programme, using a method calledCircles of Sustainability, has assessed the urban security of Port Moresby as 'critical'.[33]
Port Moresby is served within the city by buses and privately owned taxis. Flights are vital for transport about the country, highways not being widely available. Port Moresby is served byJacksons International Airport, the biggest international airport andPapua New Guinea Defence Force Air Wing base in the country.
As the national highway system is not fully linked, there are many internal flights to other towns, such asLae andMadang, which have no direct road connection to Port Moresby.
Papua New Guinea is rich in natural resources, which account for two thirds of its export earnings. Though PNG is filled with resources, the lack of development led foreign countries to take over some sites. Continuing foreign demand for PNG's resources led the United States to set up an oil company that began to export in 2004. This was the largest project in PNG's history. The project increased the potential to triple PNG's export revenue. Papua New Guinea gained much assistance from Australia and was offered two hundred million dollars a year in aid, and many countries such as Singapore, Japan and China have also played a great part in PNG's industry business.[34] The decision to host the 2018APEC meeting,[35] brought a large number of world leaders to Port Moresby.
There has been substantial building of housing, office towers, shopping malls and commercial establishments over much of the city.[citation needed] The waterfront area has been completely redeveloped with apartments, restaurants and shopping centres.[citation needed] Sporting facilities were upgraded significantly for the2015 Pacific Games, and further development took place in preparation for the2016 FIFA Under-20 Women's World Cup.[36]
The1991 South Pacific Games held from 7–21 September 1991 at Port Moresby and alongLae were the ninthSouth Pacific Games to be held. This was the first time that events at one games had been held in two cities. The decision to do so was to allow both locations to benefit from the construction of new facilities.[39]
The2015 Pacific Games were held in Port Moresby from 4 to 18 July 2015.[42] In September 2009, the Pacific Games Council, at its meeting coinciding with the2009 Pacific Mini Games, elected Port Moresby as the host of the 2015 Games. The final vote was 25–22 in favour of Port Moresby over Tonga.[43]
The opening ceremony took place on 4 July 2015 involving various traditional dances.[45] The closing ceremony involved singers such as J Boog, Fiji, O-Shen and George Mamua Telek.[46]
Sir John Guise Stadium is the premier sports venue with a capacity of 15,000. It was completely rebuilt in 2015.
Amini Park is acricket ground in Port Moresby.[47][48] The ground is named for the Amini family, several of whom have played cricket for Papua New Guinea (both themen's andwomen's teams),[49] the ground has seen the men's team playAustralia, theWest Indies andVictoria. The women's team playedJapan in a three match series at the ground in September 2006.[50]
National Football Stadium – Papua New Guinea's National Football Stadium, formerly known as Lloyd Robson Oval, is located in Port Moresby and hosted three matches for the 2017 Rugby League World Cup. The venue (Loyd Robson Oval) was completely redeveloped in 2015 and has an all-seated capacity of 15,000. This was completed in time for the Pacific Games.[51]
The venue has hosted the PNG national side since 1975 and has previously hosted Rugby League World Cup matches in 1986 and 1990. It is also home of the Hunters, the local Papua New Guinea team who play in the Intrust Super Cup which is the Queensland NRL tournament.TheNational Football Stadium features a permanent main grandstand with seating for 3,000 including a roof and corporate facilities while temporary stands around the ground boost the seating capacity. There are also lights and a video screen.
Hubert Murray Stadium is asports venue located in Port Moresby and was developed for the1969 South Pacific Games on reclaimed land atKonedobu that had previously been shoreline mangroves.[38] The athletics events and the opening and closing ceremonies were held at the new stadium,[53] which was named after SirHubert Murray, a former lieutenant governor.[54] In 2015–16 it was completely rebuilt as a large-capacity football ground.
The International Education Agency provides private education via six international schools; Korobosea International School, Boroko International School, Ela Murray International School, Gordon International School, Port Moresby International School and IEA TAFE college. There are approximately 300 staff.[55]
The Port Moresby International School (POMIS) has been operating since the 1950s. It is an International Education Agency school and is the premier international high school in Port Moresby. It enrolls nearly 1,000 students from Grades 7 to 12.[56]
Port Moresby Japanese Language School (ポート・モレスビー補習授業校Pōto Moresubī Hoshū Jugyō Kō) was asupplementary Japanese school in the city.[57] It closed in August 2009.[58]
^abcdefgOram, Nigel D. (1976).Colonial town to Melanesian city: Port Moresby 1884-1974 (First published in Australia ed.). Canberra: Australian National University Press.ISBN978-0-7081-0540-5.
^"March of Civilisation".The Argus. The Argus Office, Melbourne Victoria. 7 September 1909. p. 5. Archived fromthe original on 4 August 2018. Retrieved29 November 2009.
^"Progress in Papua".The Argus. The Argus Office, Melbourne Victoria. 5 September 1925. p. 12. Archived fromthe original on 4 August 2018. Retrieved29 November 2009.
^American Caesar,William Manchester, 1978, Little Brown Company, 793 pages,ISBN0-316-54498-1, pp.306: "On and about Jul-Sep 1942 and MacArthur's troops stop the Japanese in the difficult jungles of New Guinea and General Kenney gifts Port Moresby to the SAC by moving the bomber line 1,800 miles [2,900 km] to five new air bases."
^Salak, Kira (2004).Amazon.com listing for the "Four Corners: A Journey into the Heart of Papua New Guinea". National Geographic.ISBN0792274172.
^American Caesar,William Manchester, 1978, Little Brown Company,793 pages,ISBN0-316-54498-1, pp.290-307: "On and about Feb-Dec 1942 and MacArthur's reorganization of troops, lack of theater priority, his support for Guadalcanal and his daring offensive gamble in going to meet the Japanese in the difficult jungles of New Guinea as a way of conducting a forward defense of Australia, rather than risk a war of maneuver when he had insufficient forces to move around."
^"大洋州の補習授業校一覧" ().MEXT. February 13, 2002. Retrieved on April 7, 2015. "ポートモレスビー Port Moresby Japanese Language School c/o Embassy of Japan P.O. Box 1040 Port Moresby P.N.G."
^"関係機関へのリンク" (Archive).The Japan School of Doha. Retrieved on March 31, 2015. "ポート・モレスビー補習授業校(2009年8月休校)" and "(ニューメキシコ)アルバカーキ補習授業校(休校)" and "(プエルトリコ)プエルトリコ補習授業校(2006年3月閉校)"