 Map of Pohnpei | |
| Geography | |
|---|---|
| Coordinates | 06°54′00″N158°13′30″E / 6.90000°N 158.22500°E /6.90000; 158.22500 |
| Archipelago | Senyavin Islands |
| Adjacent to | Pacific Ocean |
| Area | 334 km2 (129 sq mi) |
| Highest elevation | 782 m (2566 ft) |
| Highest point | Mount Nanlaud |
| Administration | |
| State | Pohnpei |
| Largest settlement | Kolonia (pop. 6,074) |
| Demographics | |
| Population | 36,832 (2020) |
Pohnpei (formerly known asPonape orAscension, fromPohnpeian: "upon (pohn) a stone altar (pei)") is an island of theSenyavin Islands which are part of the largerCaroline Islands group. It belongs toPohnpei State, one of the fourstates in theFederated States of Micronesia (FSM). Major population centers on Pohnpei includePalikir, the FSM's capital, andKolonia, the capital of Pohnpei State. Pohnpei is the largest island in the FSM, with an area of 334 km2 (129 sq mi), and a highest point of 782 m (2,566 ft), the most populous with 36,832 people, and the most developed single island in the FSM.
Pohnpei is home to the megaliths and ruined city ofNan Madol, built of artificial islands off the island's eastern shore beginning in the 8th or 9th century. An important archaeological site, it was declared a national historic site in 1985.
Pohnpei contains a wealth ofbiodiversity. It is one of the wettest places on Earth with annual recorded rainfall exceeding 7,600 mm (300 in)[1] each year in certain mountainous locations. It is home to the ka tree (Terminalia carolinensis) found only in Pohnpei andKosrae.[2]
The namePohnpei comes from thePohnpeian language, literally meaning "upon a stone altar". It derives from aProto-Chuukic-Pohnpeic phrase*fawo ni pei of the same meaning. Cognates in otherMicronesian languages includeMokilesePohnpei andChuukeseFóónupi.[3]
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The natives of Pohnpei, especially the 'older' generations, often refer to events in their past as having occurred, e.g., in "German times" or "before the Spaniards," which identifies the historical periods:[4]
| Period | Years |
|---|---|
| Native period | Before 1825 |
| Pre-Spanish period | 1825–1886 |
| Spanish period | 1886–1899 |
| German period | 1899–1914 |
| Japanese period | 1914–1945 |
| US period | 1945–1986 |
| Independence period | Since 1986 |
The earliest settlers were probablyLapita culture people from the SoutheastSolomon Islands or theVanuatuarchipelago.[5] Pre-colonial history is divided into three eras:Mwehin Kawa orMwehin Aramas (Period of Building, or Period of Peopling, beforec. 1100);Mwehin Sau Deleur (Period of theLord of Deleur,c. 1100[6] toc. 1628);[note 1] andMwehinNahnmwarki (Period of the Nahnmwarki,c. 1628 toc. 1885).[7][10] Pohnpeian legend recounts that the Saudeleur rulers, the first to bring government to Pohnpei, were of foreign origin. The Saudeleur centralized form of absolute rule is characterized in Pohnpeian legend as becoming increasingly oppressive over several generations. Arbitrary and onerous demands, as well as a reputation for offending Pohnpeian deities, sowed resentment amongPohnpeians. The Saudeleur Dynasty ended with the invasion ofIsokelekel, another semi-mythical foreigner, who replaced the Saudeleur rule with the more decentralizednahnmwarki system in existence today.[4][12][13]
Pohnpeian historic society was highly structured into five tribes, various clans and sub-clans; each tribe headed by two principal chiefs. The tribes were organized on a feudal basis. In theory, "all land belonged to the chiefs, who received regular tribute and whose rule was absolute." Punishments administered by chiefs included death and banishment. Tribal wars included looting, destruction of houses and canoes and killing of prisoners.[4] Pre-Spanish population estimates are deemed unreliable.[4]
Pohnpei's first European visitor was Spanish navigatorÁlvaro de Saavedra Cerón on 14 September 1529 shortly before his death, when trying to find the way back toNew Spain.[14] He charted it asSan Bartolomé and called this one and the surrounding islands asLos Pintados (literally, "the painted ones" in Spanish) because the natives were frequently tattooed. It was later visited by the navigatorPedro Fernandes de Queirós, commanding the Spanish shipSan Jeronimo.[4] on 23 December 1595; his description is brief, he made no attempt to land.[15]
There is good documentation about Australian sailor John Henry Rowe, who arrived in his barqueJohn Bull on 10 September 1825, though he did not land as his vessel was chased off by native canoes. The first lengthy description of the island and its inhabitants is presented by the Russian explorerFyodor Litke, whose shipSenyavin gave the island group of Pohnpei, Ant and Pakin its name. From 14 to 19 January 1828, his boats attempted to land but could not due to the hostility shown by the islanders, but natives then came aboard his ship, "some trading occurred, a short vocabulary was compiled, and a map made."[4] F.H. von Kittlitz, a member of the Litke expedition made a further descriptive account, including the offshore ruins ofNan Madol, and the two reports together provided the first real knowledge of Pohnpei.[4] It is not clear who the next visitors were; however, when Capt. J.H. Eagleston of the barquePeru sighted the island on 3 January 1832, it was already on his charts as "Ascension Island." Riesenberg writes that it is uncertain who first called it Ascension Island, but the name became established until the Spanish period.[4]
From this time onward, whaling and trading vessels came in increasing numbers. Very soon a "large colony of beachcombers, escaped convicts, and ship's deserters became established ashore," identified as "chiefly bad characters," according to the log of the Swedish frigateEugenie.[4] The first missionary to arrive was FatherLouis Désiré Maigret, a Roman Catholic priest. He had sailed from Honolulu on the schoonerNotre Dame de Paix and began his efforts in December 1837, but he departed on 29 July 1838 forValparaíso after seven unsuccessful months.[16] In his company were "severalMangarevans andTahitians," some of whom remained on Pohnpei and left descendants.[4] Ten years later Maigret returned to theHawaiian Kingdom as Bishop of Honolulu.[16] A group of Protestant missionaries from New England established themselves permanently on Pohnpei in 1852. Their letters and journals contain a wealth of information about the island and are preserved atHarvard University.[4]
A drastic population decline occurred after 1854, due to asmallpox epidemic.[4]
During theAmerican Civil War, to counteract theUnion Navyblockade of their ports,Confederate States Navy ships hunted Yankee merchant shipping. On 1 April 1865, theCSS Shenandoah surprised four United States whalers at Ascension Island (Pohnpei) and destroyed them all. The local king, Nananierikie, was delighted to receive much of the spoils from this action.[17]
By 1886 the Spaniards claimed the Caroline Islands which were part of theManila-basedSpanish East Indies and began to exert political authority. They founded the citySantiago de la Ascensión in what today isKolonia (from Spanishcolonia or colony). The Spanish built several government buildings, a fort, a church and a school. Spanish Capuchin friars were also sent from Manila to Pohnpei to preach the Catholic faith. After the 1898Spanish–American War, theGerman Empire purchased the Caroline island group from Spain in 1899 together with the Marianas (except Guam) and four years later the Marshall Islands for 17 milliongoldmark.
During the German administration a fundamental change in land ownership was implemented on Pohnpei and throughout the Carolines. Beginning in 1907, the feudal system, in which all land is held in fief, was gradually replaced with the issuance of individual deeds to land. The chief's economic advantages were thus reduced, and only force of tradition granted a first harvest tribute to chiefs.[4]
With land holding, taxes came due and new owners, in lieu of payment, were obliged to work 15 days per year on public projects, such as wharf construction, road building, etc. One such work for taxes engagement sparked theSokehs rebellion. It began as an insubordination event during road construction on Sokehs Island, then escalated into the murder of nine people, the subsequent apprehension and trial of 36 Sokehs rebels, the execution of 15 insurgents, and banishment for others toBabelthuap in the German Palau Islands.
The German census of 1911–12 shows 3,190 Pohnpeians, 585 Central Carolinians and 279 Melanesians. Many of the outer islands were resettled (mainly on Sokehs Island) as a consequence of destructive typhoons in their home islands.
A special census conducted in late 1947 shows a total population of 5,628, of which 4,451 were Pohnpeians, and 1,177 were natives of other Pacific islands. By 1963, the population had grown to nearly 10,000.[4]
With theTreaty of Versailles, Japan asmandatory power assumed control of all German colonial possessions north of the equator, havingoccupied Pohnpei along with the rest of theCarolines, theMarshalls, theMarianas (except for American-ownedGuam) andKiautschou Bay duringWorld War I. In subsequent years and duringWorld War II the Japanese garrison strength was composed of about 2,000 men of theIJN under Captain Jun Naito and 5,984IJA men under Lieutenant General Masao Watanabe.[18] However, Pohnpei was bypassed by theUnited States Navy during theisland-hopping amphibious campaigns of 1943–1945.[18]
The island was shelled on several occasions, including by the battleshipsUSSMassachusetts, USSAlabama, andUSS Iowa, as well as air attacks launched fromUSSCowpens. Japan surrendered in 1945, and the Pohnpei was turned over to the United States without a battle. After the war, Japanese nationals were repatriated to Japan by the US Navy. The people on Pohnpei would be in a United Nations trusteeship to determine their own fate.
The Federated States of Micronesia achieved independence in 1986 after being administered by the United States under UN auspices since 1947 as part of theTrust Territory of the Pacific Islands. Pohnpei is an island part of Federated States of Micronesia, which is recognized by the United Nations. It has maintained a defense and aid agreement with the United States after becoming independent.
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The highest point of the island isMount Nanlaud at 772 or 782 metres. Pohnpei is home to several dozen bird species including fourendemic species, thePohnpei lorikeet, thePohnpei fantail, thePohnpei flycatcher and thelong-billed white-eye. A fifth endemic, thePohnpei starling, is thought to have recently goneextinct.
The only land reptiles are a few species of lizard. Originally the only mammals were bats. Pigs, rats and dogs were introduced; pigs have become feral. The lagoons are rich in fish, molluscs, turtles and other marine fauna.
Pohnpei belongs to thetropical rainforest climate zone (Köppen:Af).[19] It is one of the wettest places on Earth with an average annual recorded rainfall of 4,775 mm (188.0 in) in towns along the coast and about 7,600 mm (300 in) each year in certain mountainous locations.[20]
| Climate data for Pohnpei | |||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
| Mean daily maximum °C (°F) | 30 (86) | 30 (86) | 30 (86) | 30 (86) | 30 (86) | 30 (86) | 30 (86) | 31 (87) | 31 (87) | 31 (87) | 31 (87) | 30 (86) | 30 (86) |
| Mean daily minimum °C (°F) | 23 (73) | 24 (75) | 24 (75) | 23 (73) | 23 (73) | 23 (73) | 22 (71) | 22 (71) | 22 (71) | 22 (71) | 23 (73) | 23 (73) | 22 (71) |
| Averageprecipitation mm (inches) | 310 (12.1) | 260 (10.2) | 360 (14) | 450 (17.6) | 490 (19.4) | 420 (16.6) | 440 (17.2) | 410 (16.3) | 400 (15.9) | 410 (16.2) | 400 (15.9) | 420 (16.7) | 4,770 (187.8) |
| Source: Weatherbase[21] | |||||||||||||
The population of the state in 2010 was approximately 36,196. While the majority of the population consider themselves ethnic Pohnpeians, Pohnpei is moreethnically diverse than any other island in the FSM. This is largely due to more than a century of foreign colonial occupation, bringing in Spanish, German, Japanese,Chamorro,Filipino, US, Australian, other western Europeans, and it being home to the capital of thenational government, which employs hundreds of people from the other three FSM States (Yap,Chuuk,Kosrae) having distinct ethnic and cultural origins. Theindigenous makeup also includes the multiple regional ethnicities of the outer islands within Pohnpei State, resulting in a mix of Australasian Pacific Islanders and hence making Pohnpei Island the FSM'smelting pot.
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ThePohnpeian language (formerly called "Ponapean") and its dialects are the indigenous languages of Pohnpei. TheFederated States of Micronesia government also uses Pohnpeian as aregional language.English and Spanish are spoken in the island.
The municipalities on the island of Pohnpei are:
Pohnpei International Airport (IATA codePNI) is located nearKolonia, on a small island named Deketik off the northern coast of the main island.
The FSM is part of the international Olympic movement, originally the work of James Tobin, who now sits on the IOC Executive Board, sending teams to the summer games beginning in 2000 with the Sydney games and continuing every four years to the present with athletes participating in track and field, swimming and weightlifting. The most notable Pohnpeian athlete is marathon runnerElias Rodriguez who ran for the FSM at theSydney Olympics. Rodriguez finished last in the marathon but was cheered on by tens of thousands of spectators and watched by millions of television viewers as he entered the Olympic stadium for a final lap immediately prior to theclosing ceremony which was delayed to allow his finish.[22]
Pohnpei's state football team were coached by the world's youngest national football coach, the EnglishmanPaul Watson, who led the team on a tour of nearby Guam, winning one match against a local team.[23] The annualMicronesian Futsal Cup has been established on the island, also the work of Watson.
Pohnpei (as Ponape) plays a role in several stories of theCthulhu Mythos byH. P. Lovecraft and others. Its role in "Out of the Aeons",[24] by Lovecraft andHazel Heald, was inspired by the ruins ofNan Madol (see above), which had already been used as the setting for alost race story byAbraham Merritt,The Moon Pool, in which the islands are called Nan-Matal.[note 2]
Pohnpei is a central location inSouth Sea Adventure (1952), the second ofWillard Price's Young Adult Adventure Series books featuring Hal and Roger Hunt.[citation needed][25]
Pohnpei, or "Ponape" as it is spelled, is stated as the home island of "Mike" on the popular blogDunce Upon A Time, authored by BC Woods.[26]
Pohnpei State Department of Education operates public schools.
Public high schools:[27]
Private schools:
Pohnpei Catholic School
Post secondary education:
Lidorkini Museum was located in Kolonia, until its closure in 2012.[29]
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