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Inclimbing, apitch is a section of aclimbing route between twobelay points (orbelay stations), and is most commonly related to the task oflead climbing (going up), but is also related toabseiling (going down). Climbing on routes that require only one pitch is known assingle-pitch climbing, and climbing on routes with more than one pitch is known asmulti-pitch climbing (where the number is large, it can bebig wall oralpine climbing).
Modernclimbing ropes are typically 60–70 metres (200–230 ft) in length, which sets the theoretical maximum length of a 'pitch', however, other factors mean that the average pitch on a multi-pitch route is circa 30–40 metres (98–131 ft) in length. Advanced climbing techniques such assimul climbing can materially reduce—and even completely remove—the need for 'pitches' on a multi-pitch climbing route. The term is also used incaving.
Inlead climbing — either inrock climbing,mountaineering, andice climbing — the term 'pitch' describes the length of a section of aclimbing route betweenbelays of the 'lead climber'. A route that requires a leader to be belayed only once (ignoring any follow-up belay of the 'second climber' by the leader), is called a 'single-pitch climb'; where there are multiple belays of the leader, it is called a 'multi-pitch climb'. The term is also applied to the reverse process ofabseiling, where it denotes the number of anchor points needed to complete the abseil (abseil anchor points are often, but not always, lead climbing belay points).[1][2]
Most lead climbing — and particularlysport climbing — routes are 'single-pitch'.[1][2] Single-pitch routes vary from 10 metres (33 ft) to the full length of theclimbing rope, which is typically 60–70 metres (200–230 ft). Very short single-pitch routes (i.e. under 10 metres (33 ft) in length) can be classed ashighball bouldering routes, and do not require anyprotection or the need forbelaying (i.e. the concept of a 'pitch' is redundant in bouldering).[1][2]
Multi-pitch climbing introduces greater risk and requires greater skills and additionalclimbing equipment.[3] Inbig wall climbing and inalpine climbing, it is possible to have multi-pitch routes with over 30 pitches, with notable examples being the 1,000-metre (3,300 ft) 31-pitch big wall route,The Nose (VI, 5.9, C2) onEl Capitan, or the 1,200-metre (3,900 ft) +30-pitch alpine climbing route, theWalker Spur (ED1, IV, 5c/6a, A1) on theGrandes Jorasses.[3]
Climbing guidebooks will typically have atopo that outlines the key features of each individual 'pitch(s)' on a given climbing route (e.g.grade, length, climbing challenges, availability ofclimbing protection and belay stations etc.,).[4]
A single-pitch route can range from 7 metres (23 ft) to the full length of theclimbing rope (by definition, the longest belay of a 'leader' is limited by the length of the rope). In the 1960s to the 1980s, climbing ropes were typically 50 metres (160 ft) in length, however, modern ropes are typically 60–70 metres (200–230 ft) in length (and can extend to 80–100 metres (260–330 ft)), which sets the current theoretical maximum length of a 'pitch'.[7]
On multi-pitch routes, the typical average length of a pitch tends to be in the 30–40 metres (98–131 ft) range, which is well inside the length of the most commonly used modern climbing ropes. This is due to the effect of other factors that also determine the ideal length of pitches (and thus the total number of pitches) on a multi-pitch route, including:[1]
On long but easier routes, the climbing pair may usesimul climbing (or arunning belay), whereby both climberssimultaneously ascend the route. The 'lead climber' acts like on a normal lead climb, however, the 'second' does not remain belaying in a static position, but instead also climbs, removing/unclipping the protection equipment of the 'lead climber'. Both climbers are tied to the rope at all times, and both make sure that there are several points of protection in situ between them. Simul climbing is only performed on terrain both climbers are comfortable on, as any fall is serious; often the stronger climber goes second. In such a scenario, the concept of a 'pitch' is redundant as the pair keeps moving through the belay stations that mark the end of a normal pitch.[9]
Simul climbing techniques, and the linking of pitches, are very common inalpine climbing, where snowfields can be simul-combined as one continuous pitch (although when iced, they have to be belayed in smaller pitches). A classic example is the 1,800-metre (5,900 ft)1938 Heckmair Route (ED2, V−, A0, 60° snow) on theEiger, which has 7-10 sections that most parties will lead climb as individual pitches (e.g. "The Ice Hose", "The Ice Chimney", "The Quartz Crack"), while much of the rest of the route can be simul-climbed as a continuous pitch.[10]
Speed climbing on multi-pitch rock climbing routes can also use simul-climbing techniques for greater efficiency. For example, many speed climbing pairs on the 31-pitch route,The Nose, use simul-climbing on the easier established pitches, thus reducing the number of actual pitches (i.e. a 'leader' being belayed by the 'second' who is static) that they need, which significantly speeds up their rate of ascent.[11][12]
In addition,free solo climbing, which by definition avoids using any form of belaying (and therefore any need for any belay stations), can link all the pitches on a route together, with the free soloist only stopping at rest points (which may or may not be a belay station); the concept of a pitch is, therefore, less relevant in free solo climbing.
The techniques of simul-climbing and free solo climbing—both of which avoid climbing in 'pitches', as there is no need for a belay—involve significantly greater risk to the climber(s), but by definition make the concept of a 'pitch' redundant.[12]
The term 'pitch' is also used bycavers to refer to a very steep or vertical section (called a drop, pit, pot, or a shaft) in acave that needs ladders orsingle rope technique to descend and ascend (a drop that can be descended and ascended without equipment is a 'climb'). As caving rope lengths are variable, the length of a 'pitch' is that of the 'drop'. The deepest known pitch is 603 m (1,978 ft) inVrtiglavica Cave in theJulian Alps,Slovenia.[citation needed]
Determining the length of a pitch
