The county is generally sparsely populated and rural, with an area of 610 square miles (1,600 km2) and a population of 123,400. After Haverfordwest, the largest settlements areMilford Haven (13,907),Pembroke Dock (9,753), andPembroke (7,552).St Davids (1,841) is the smallest city by population in the UK.Welsh is spoken by 17.2 percent of the population; forhistoric reasons the language is more widely spoken in the north of the county than in the south.
Pembrokeshire's coast is its most dramatic geographic feature, created by the complex geology of the area. It is a varied landscape which includes high sea cliffs, wide sandy beaches, the large natural harbour of Milford Haven, and several offshore islands which are home to seabird colonies. Most of it is protected byPembrokeshire Coast National Park, and can be hiked on the 190-mile (310 km)Pembrokeshire Coast Path. The interior of Pembrokeshire is relatively flat and gently undulating, with the exception of thePreseli Mountains in the north.
There are many prehistoric sites in Pembrokeshire, particularly in the Preseli Mountains. During the Middle Ages several castles were built by the Normans, such asPembroke andCilgerran, andSt David's Cathedral became an important pilgrimage site. During theIndustrial Revolution the county remained relatively rural, with the exception of Milford Haven, which was developed as a port andRoyal Navydockyard. It is now the UK's third-largest port, primarily because of its twoliquefied natural gas terminals. The economy of the county is now focused on agriculture, oil and gas, and tourism.
The county town is Haverfordwest. Other towns include Pembroke, Pembroke Dock, Milford Haven,Fishguard,Tenby,Narberth,Neyland andNewport. In the west of the county, St Davids is the United Kingdom'ssmallest city in terms of both size and population (1,841 in 2011).Saundersfoot is the most populous village (more than 2,500 inhabitants)[4] in Pembrokeshire. Less than 4 per cent of the county, according toCORINE, is built-on or green urban.[5]
There are three weather stations in Pembrokeshire: at Tenby, Milford Haven andPenycwm, all on the coast. Milford Haven enjoys a mild climate and Tenby shows a similar range of temperatures throughout the year,[6] while at Penycwm, on the west coast and 100m above sea level, temperatures are slightly lower.[7]
The county has on average the highest coastal winter temperatures in Wales due to its proximity to the relatively warm Atlantic Ocean. Inland, average temperatures tend to fall 0.5 °C for each 100 metres increase in height.[8]
The air pollution rating of Pembrokeshire is "Good", the lowest rating.[9]
The rocks in the county were formed between 600 and 290 million years ago. More recent rock formations were eroded when sea levels rose 80 million years ago, at the end of theCretaceous Period. Around 60 million years ago, the Pembrokeshire landmass emerged through a combination of uplift and falling sea levels; the youngest rocks, from theCarboniferous Period, contain thePembrokeshire Coalfield.[10] The landscape was subject to considerable change as a result of ice ages; about 20,000 years ago the area was scraped clean of soil and vegetation by the ice sheet; subsequently, meltwater deepened the existing river valleys.[11][12] While Pembrokeshire is not usually a seismically active area, in August 1892 there was a series of pronounced activities (maximum intensity: 7) over a six-day period.[13]: 184
The Pembrokeshire coastline includes numerous bays and sandy beaches. ThePembrokeshire Coast National Park, the only park in the UK established primarily because of its coastline,[14][15] occupies more than a third of the county. The park contains thePembrokeshire Coast Path, a near-continuous 186-mile (299 km)long-distance trail fromAmroth, by the Carmarthenshire border in the southeast, toSt Dogmaels just down theRiver Teifiestuary fromCardigan, Ceredigion, in the north.[16] TheNational Trust owns 60 miles (97 km) of Pembrokeshire's coast.[17] Nowhere in the county is more than 10 miles (16 km) from tidal water. The large estuary and natural harbour ofMilford Haven cuts deep into the coast; this inlet is formed by theconfluence of the WesternCleddau (which flows through Haverfordwest), the Eastern Cleddau, and rivers Cresswell[18] and Carew. Since 1975, the estuary has been bridged by theCleddau Bridge,[19] a toll bridge carrying theA477 between Neyland and Pembroke Dock. Large bays are Newport Bay, Fishguard Bay,St Bride's Bay and westernCarmarthen Bay. There are several small islands off the Pembrokeshire coast, the largest of which areRamsey,Grassholm,Skokholm,Skomer andCaldey.[20] The seas around Skomer and Skokholm, and some other areas off the Pembrokeshire coast areMarine protected areas.[21]
View from the bluestone quarry to other peaks in the Preselis
Pembrokeshire's diverse range of geological features was a key factor in the establishment of the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park and a number of sites of special scientific interest (SSSIs).[26] In the north of the county are the Preseli Mountains, a wide stretch of highmoorland supporting sheep farming and some forestry, with manyprehistoric sites and the probable source of thebluestones used in the construction of the inner circle ofStonehenge in England.[27] The highest point isFoel Cwmcerwyn at 1,759 feet (536 m), which is also the highest point in Pembrokeshire. Elsewhere in the county most of the land (86 per cent according toCORINE) is used for farming, compared with 60 per cent for Wales as a whole.[5]
Pembrokeshire's wildlife is diverse, with marine, estuary, woodland, moorland and farmland habitats.[28][29] The county has a number of seasonal seabird breeding sites, including forrazorbill,guillemot andManx shearwater,[30] and rare endemic species such as thered-billed chough;[31]: 133–135 Grassholm has a largegannet colony,[32] and the island of Skomer is one of the most importantpuffin colonies in Britain with more than 43,000 birds.[33] Seals,[34] several species of whales (including rarehumpback whale sightings[35][36]), dolphins and porpoises can be seen off the Pembrokeshire coast; whale-watching boat trips are frequent, particularly during the summer months,[37] and a rare visit by a walrus occurred in the spring of 2021.[38] An appeal for otter sightings in 2014 yielded more than 100 responses.[39]
Pembrokeshire is one of the few places in the UK that is home to the rare Southern damselfly,Coenagrion mercuriale, which is found at several locations in the county, and whose numbers have been boosted by conservation work over a number of years.[40]
Ancient woodland still exists, such asTŷ Canol Wood, wherebiofluorescence, seen underultraviolet light under the dark sky, is a feature that has led to the wood being described as "...one of the most magical and special woodlands in the UK."[41]
TheWildlife Trust of South and West Wales is in the process of restoring a losttemperate rainforest, also known as a Celtic forest, in Trellwyn Fach, near the town ofFishguard.[42] Although temperate rainforests once covered much of western Britain's coasts, they were destroyed over centuries and only remain in fragments.[43] The 59-hectare (150-acre) site will connect with remnants of the remaining rainforest in theGwaun valley.[44] The project is part of a larger, 100-year Atlantic rainforest recovery programme.[45]
Human habitation in what is now Pembrokeshire dates back to between 125,000 and 70,000 years ago,[46]: 3 with prominent prehistoric sites includingPentre Ifan and otherNeolithic remains. Aerial surveys during the 2018 heatwave revealed many previously unrecorded sites,[47] and in the same year, Wales’s first known Celtic chariot burial was discovered inLlanstadwell.[48][49] Roman influence was limited; although a few forts, coins, and roads have been found,[50][51] much of the area remained beyond sustained Roman control. In the sub-Roman period, the IrishDéisi settled and merged with local populations, forming theKingdom of Dyfed, which became part ofDeheubarth in the 10th century. The region saw Viking raids and limited settlement.[46]: 81–85
Normans and Flemings arrived between 1067 and 1111, building castles such asPembroke Castle and transforming Dyfed into the county of Pembroke.[46]: 98 Although Norman control was contested by Welsh rulers includingThe Lord Rhys andLlywelyn the Great, it endured in many parts of the region. Pembrokeshire was declared a county palatine in 1138 and saw a wave ofFlemish settlement.[52]: 107 In 1485, Henry Tudor had launched his campaign from Pembroke, ultimately becomingHenry VII of England.[53]: 337–379 TheLaws in Wales Acts 1535 and 1542 later reorganised it into sevenhundreds, aligning it with the English shire system. The county supported Parliament in the English Civil Wars, withOliver Cromwell besieging Pembroke in 1648 following a local mutiny.
In the 18th and 19th centuries, Pembrokeshire remained largely agricultural, with modest urban centres and limited industrial growth. TheBattle of Fishguard in 1797 marked the last invasion of Britain, ending in French surrender. Poor relief and infrastructure remained key concerns, with water supply improved only later in the century.[54] In the 20th century, military use of the county intensified, particularly during the world wars: a naval base atMilford Haven, multiple airfields, D-Day training by U.S. forces,[55] and accommodation of German POWs all featured. Pembrokeshire’s wartime casualties are commemorated at theCounty of Pembroke War Memorial.[56] After 1945, modern development included the construction of theLlys y Fran reservoir (1972), with the local economy later benefiting from tourism, agriculture, and energy infrastructure.
In February 1996, the Pembrokeshire coast suffered the UK's (then) third worst oil spill when theSea Empress ran aground at the entrance to Milford Haven.[57]
Pembrokeshire's population was 122,439 at the 2011 census,[58] increasing marginally to 123,400 at the 2021 census. 66.4 per cent of residents were born in Wales, while 27.5 per cent were born in England.[59]
The 2021 census recorded that Welsh is spoken by 17.2 per cent of the population, a fall from 19.2 per cent in 2011.[59] As a result of differential immigration over hundreds of years, such as the influx of Flemish people,[60] the south of the county has fewer Welsh-speaking inhabitants (about 15 per cent) than the north (about 50 per cent). The rough line that can be drawn between the two regions, illustrated by the map, is known as theLandsker Line, and the area south of the line has been termed "Little England beyond Wales". The first objective, statistically based description of this demarcation was made in the 1960s,[61]: 7–29 but the distinction was remarked upon as early as 1603 byGeorge Owen of Henllys.[62] A 21st century introduction of Welsh place names for villages which had previously been known locally only by their English names has caused some controversy.[63]
In 1851, a religious census of Pembrokeshire showed that of 70 per cent of the population, 53 per cent werenonconformists and 17 per cent Church of England (nowChurch in Wales, in theDiocese of St Davids).[64] The 2001 census for Preseli Pembrokeshire constituency showed that 74 per cent were Christian and 25 per cent of no religion (or not stated), with other religions totalling less than 1 per cent. This approximated to the figures for the whole of Wales.[65] By 2021, 43 per cent reported "no religion", while 48.8 per cent described themselves as Christian. 6.6 per cent did not state their religion, and the remainder represented a number of other religions combined.[59]
In 2001, Preseli Pembrokeshire constituency was 99 per cent white European, marginally lower than in 1991, compared with 98 per cent for the whole of Wales. 71 per cent identified their place of birth as Wales and 26 per cent as from elsewhere in the UK.[65] In 2021, 52.7 per cent of residents identified as "Welsh only", a slight decrease since 2011.[59]
In 2009, the question of county names andRoyal Mail postal addresses was raised in the Westminster parliament; it was argued that Royal Mail's continued use of the county address Dyfed was causing concern and confusion in the Pembrokeshire business community.[70] The Royal Mail subsequently ceased requiring county names to be used in postal addresses.
In 2018, Pembrokeshire County Council increasedcouncil tax by 12.5 per cent, the largest increase since 2004, but the county's council tax remains the lowest in Wales.[72] In 2023 the council published its corporate strategy document for 2023-28.[73]
The Pembrokeshire (Communities) Order 2011 established the most recent arrangement ofcommunities (the successors to civil parishes) in the county which have their own councils; see the foot of this page for a list of communities.[74]
There are no motorways in Pembrokeshire; the nearest is theM4 motorway from London which terminates at thePont Abraham services in Carmarthenshire some 46 miles (74 km) from Haverfordwest. TheA40 crosses Pembrokeshire from the border with Carmarthenshire westwards to Haverfordwest, then northwards to Fishguard.[82] TheA477 fromSt. Clears to Pembroke Dock is 24 miles (39 km) long, of which only 2 miles (3.2 km) are dual carriageway. TheCleddau Bridge, toll-free from 28 March 2019,[83] carries the A477 across theCleddau Estuary. TheA478 traverses eastern Pembrokeshire from Tenby in the south toCardigan, Ceredigion in the north, a distance of 30 miles (48 km). TheA487 is the other major route, running northwest from Haverfordwest to St Davids, then northeast following the coast, through Fishguard and Newport, to the boundary with Ceredigion at Cardigan.[82] Owing to length restrictions in Fishguard, some freight vehicles are not permitted to travel northeast from Fishguard but must take a longer route via Haverfordwest and Narberth.[84] TheB4329 former turnpike runs fromEglwyswrw in the north to Haverfordwest across the Preselis.[85]
The main towns in the county are covered by regular bus and train services operated byFirst Cymru (under their "Western Welsh" livery),Transport for Wales Rail and sometimesGreat Western Railway respectively, and many villages by local bus services, or community or education transport.[86]
Pembrokeshire's economy now relies heavily on tourism; agriculture, once its most important industry with associated activities such as milling, is still significant. Mining of slate and coal had largely ceased by the 20th century. Since the 1950s,petrochemical andliquid natural gas industries have developed along theMilford Haven Waterway and the county has attracted other major ventures. In 2016,Stephen Crabb, thenWelsh Secretary, commented in a government press release:"...with a buoyant local economy, Pembrokeshire is punching above its weight across the UK."[93]
In August 2019, the Pembrokeshire County Show celebrated 60 years at Haverfordwest Showground. The organisers anticipated 100,000 visitors, the largest three-day such event in Wales at the time. It showcased agriculture, food and drink, a rugby club, entertainment, with the star attraction a motorcycle display team.[94]
Until the 12th century, a great extent of Pembrokeshire was virgin woodland. Clearance in the lowland south began under Anglo-Flemish colonisation and under mediaeval tenancies in other areas. Such was the extent of development that by the 16th century there was a shortage of timber in the county. Little is known about mediaeval farming methods, but much arable land was continuously cropped and only occasionally ploughed. By the 18th century, many of the centuries-old open field systems had beenenclosed, and much of the land was arable or rough pasture in a ratio of about 1:3.[95]
Solva Woollen Mill
Kelly's Directory of 1910 gave a snapshot of the agriculture of Pembrokeshire: 57,343 acres (23,206 ha) were cropped (almost half under oats and a quarter barley), there were 37,535 acres (15,190 ha) of grass and clover and 213,387 acres (86,355 ha) of permanent pasture (of which a third was for hay). There were 128,865 acres (52,150 ha) of mountain or heathland used for grazing, with 10,000 acres (4,000 ha) of managed or unmanaged woodland. Estimates of livestock included 17,810 horses, 92,386 cattle, 157,973 sheep and 31,673 pigs. Of 5,981 agricultural holdings, more than half were between 5 and 50 acres.[96]
Pembrokeshire has good soil and benefits from theGulf Stream, which provides a mild climate and a longer growing season than other parts of Wales.[100]: 142 Pembrokeshire's mild climate means that crops such as its new potatoes (which haveprotected geographical status under European law)[101] often arrive in British shops earlier in the year than produce from other parts of the UK. Other principal arable crops areoilseed rape,wheat andbarley, while the main non-arable activities are dairy farming for milk and cheese, beef production and sheep farming.[102]
The county lends its name to thePembroke Welsh Corgi, a herding dog whose lineage can be traced back to the 12th century,[103]: 6 but which in 2015 was designated as a "vulnerable" breed.[104]
Since 2006, Pembrokeshire Local Action Network for Enterprise and Development (PLANED) has provided a forum to promote an integrated approach to rural development, in which communities, public sector and voluntary partners and specialist interest groups come together to influence policy and promote projects aimed at sustainable agriculture. Sub-groups include promoting food and farming in schools and shortening supply chains.[105]
With Pembrokeshire's extensive coastal areas and tidal river estuaries, fishing was an important industry at least from the 16th century. Many ports and villages were dependent on the fishing.[106] The former largesea fishing industry around Milford Haven is now greatly reduced, although limited commercial fishing still takes place. At its peak, Milford was landing over 40,000 tons of fish a year.[106]Pembrokeshire Fish Week is a biennial event[107] which in 2014 attracted 31,000 visitors and generated £3 million for the local economy.[108]
Slate quarrying was a significant industry in the 19th and early 20th centuries with quarrying taking place at about 100 locations throughout the county.[109] Over 50 coal workings in thePembrokeshire Coalfield were in existence between the 14th and 20th centuries,[110] with the last coal mine, atKilgetty, closing in 1950.[10][111] Pembrokeshire has 61 disused coal tips; only one of these is in Category C (carrying a potential safety risk), but its location has not been disclosed.[112]
There are two oil refineries, twoliquified natural gas (LNG) terminals and the 2,000MW gas-firedPembroke Power Station (opened in 2012) at Milford Haven. The LNG terminals on the north side of the river, just outsideMilford Haven were opened in 2008;[113] a 196-mile (315 km) pipeline connecting Milford Haven to Tirley in Gloucestershire was completed in 2007.[114] The two oil refineries are operated byChevron (formerly Texaco) producing 214,000 bbl/d (34,000 m3/d) andMurco (formerly Amoco/Elf) producing 108,000 bbl/d (17,200 m3/d); the latter was sold toPuma Energy in 2015 with the intention of converting it to a storage facility.[115] At the peak, there were a total of five refineries served from around the Haven: theEsso refinery operated from 1960 to 1983, was demolished in the late 1980s and the site converted into theSouth Hook LNG terminal; theGulf Refinery operated from 1968 to 1997 and the site now incorporates theDragon LNG terminal;BP had an oil terminal atAngle Bay which served its refinery atLlandarcy and operated between 1961 and 1985.[116]
The Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority has identified a number of areas in whichrenewable energy can be, and has been, generated in the county.[117] Following several years of planning after the initial impact studies begun in 2011,[118] the first submarine turbine of three was installed inRamsey Sound in December 2015.[119] The cumulative impact of single and multiple wind turbines is not without controversy[120] and was the subject of a comprehensive assessment in 2013.[121] In 2011 the firstsolar energy farm in Wales was installed at Rhosygilwen,Rhoshill with 10,000 panels in a field of 6 acres (2.4 ha), generating 1 MW.[122]
Barafundle Beach, a recipient of both the 2019 Seaside and Green Coastal awards
Pembrokeshire's tourism portal isVisit Pembrokeshire, run by Pembrokeshire County Council.[123] In 2015 4.3 million tourists visited the county, staying for an average of 5.24 days, spending £585 million; the tourism industry supported 11,834 jobs.[124] Many of Pembrokeshire's beaches have won awards,[125] including Poppit Sands and Newport Sands.[126] In 2018, Pembrokeshire received the most coast awards in Wales, with 56Blue Flag,Green Coast or Seaside Awards.[127][128] In the 2019 Wales Coast Awards, 39 Pembrokeshire beaches were recognised, including 11 awarded Blue Flag status.[129]
The Pembrokeshire coastline is a major draw to tourists; in 2011 National Geographic Traveller magazine voted the Pembrokeshire Coast the second best in the world and in 2015 the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park was listed among the top five parks in the world by a travel writer for the Huffington Post.[130]Countryfile Magazine readers voted the Pembrokeshire Coast the top UK holiday destination in 2018,[131] and in 2019Consumers' Association members placed Tenby and St Davids in the top three best value beach destinations in Britain.[132] With few large urban areas, Pembrokeshire is a "dark sky" destination.[133] The many wrecks off the Pembrokeshire coast attract divers.[23] The decade from 2012 saw significant, increasing numbers ofAtlantic bluefin tuna, not seen since the 1960s, and now seen by some as an opportunity to encourage tourist sport fishing.[134]
Pembrokeshire Destination Management Plan for 2020 to 2025 sets out the scope and priorities to grow tourism in Pembrokeshire by increasing its value by 10 per cent in the five years, and to make Pembrokeshire a top five UK destination.[136]
Theflag of Pembrokeshire is a yellow cross on a blue field; in the centre of the cross is a green pentagon bearing a red and whiteTudor rose, divided quarterly andcounterchanged, the inner and outer roses having alternating red and white quarters.[137][138]
Music festivals in Pembrokeshire include those at St Davids, Fishguard (folk, jazz and the International Music Festival) and Tenby (Blues Festival).[142] Milford Haven's Torch Theatre produces drama, screens films and holds exhibitions of art and crafts,[143] and there is a theatre-cinema in Fishguard (Theatr Gwaun)[144] and a cinema in Haverfordwest.[145] There are museums and art galleries in several locations in the county, including Scolton Manor, Narberth, Tenby, Milford Haven and Fishguard;[146] in Fishguard, the 100 feet (30 m) longLast Invasion Tapestry, commemorating theBattle of Fishguard in 1797, is on display.[147] The Llangwm Literary Festival is aliterary festival held inLlangwm.[148]
Pembrokeshire's coastal landscape and wealth of historic buildings has made it a popular location choice for film and television, includingMoby Dick at Fishguard, and the final twoHarry Potter films at Freshwater West. Others include:
There are seven local newspapers based in Pembrokeshire: theWestern Telegraph (the largest in Pembrokeshire),The Milford Mercury,Tenby Observer,Pembroke Observer,County Echo andThe Pembrokeshire Herald (founded 2013.[169]The Milford Mercury (circulation 3,681) andWestern Telegraph (circulation 19,582) are part of theNewsquest group.Radio Pembrokeshire, and several other West Wales radio stations, were broadcast from Narberth until 2016, when they were relocated to the Vale of Glamorgan, while retaining satellite offices at Narberth and Milford Marina.[170][171]
Triathlon eventIronman Wales has been held in Pembrokeshire since 2011, contributing £3.7 million to the local economy, and the county committed in 2017 to host the event for a further five years.[174]Ras Beca, a mixed road, fell and cross country race attracting UK-wide competitors, has been held in the Preselis annually since 1977. The record of 32 minutes 5 seconds has stood since 1995.[175] Pembrokeshire Harriers athletics club was formed in 2001 by the amalgamation of Cleddau Athletic Club (established 1970) and Preseli Harriers (1989) and is based in Haverfordwest.[176]
The annual Tour of Pembrokeshireroad-cycling event takes place over routes of optional length.[177] The 4th Tour, in April 2015, attracted 1,600 riders including Olympic gold medallistChris Boardman[178] and there were 1,500 entrants to the 2016 event.[179] Part of Route 47 of theCeltic Trail cycle route is in Pembrokeshire. TheLlys y FranHillclimb is an annual event run by Swansea Motor Club,[180] and there are several other county motoring events held each year.[181]
A comprehensive review of education in Pembrokeshire was carried out in 2014 with a number of options for discussion in 2015.[204] In 2018 there were 58 primary schools, eight secondary schools (two for ages 3 to 16) and one special school, in all providing education for more than 18,300 pupils. These include 15 Welsh medium primary schools in the county, three dual stream schools and two transition schools; four primary schools are classified as English Welsh schools (English medium schools with significant use of Welsh). In 2017/18, 22 per cent of seven-year-old pupils were educated through the medium of Welsh. This figure was expected to rise to 25 per cent by 2019/20.[205] In 2019, there were two fewer primary schools. The local authority's education budget for 2019/2020 was £88 million, equating to £4,856 per pupil. A February 2020 report by schools' inspection bodyEstyn, however, considered the local authority's performance in education provision "a significant concern".[206]
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