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Peach basket hat

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Hat design resembling a basket of fruit
ActressMabel Normand in a peach basket hat. Sketch byJames Montgomery Flagg, 1909

Apeach basket hat (sometimes calledfruit basket hat[1]) is amillinery design that resembles an upturned countrybasket of the style typically used to collect fruit. Generally it is made ofstraw or similar material and it often has atrimming of flowers and ribbons. Some models may also feature aveil ordraped fabric covering.[2] It was introduced in around 1908 and caused some controversy over the succeeding year due to its extreme dimensions and decorations. It had revivals – designs were at this stage more modest – in the 1930s and 1950s.

History of the design

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American singerBlossom Seeley in a peach basket style, 1912

The name peach basket hat became popularly used around 1908 in the United States. An advertisement in thePittsburgh Gazette describes "the new Peach Basket Hats", also showing an illustration of a flower-decorated straw hat in the shape of a basket.[3] While the term peach basket does not appear to have been used in the British fashion press, descriptions involving fruit baskets were. A 1908 comment piece inThe Guardian byEvelyn Sharp described a variety of oversized designs, including one similar toRoundhead headgear, noting that they were: "hideously popular" and came trimmed with a variety of flower, fruit and bird motifs. Sharp added: "A basket of market produce pinned on the head would have much the same effect. For next to the difficulty of finding the head of the wearer underneath the hat of to-day comes the difficulty of finding hat shape under the trimming of to-day".[4]

A 1907 article in the American edition ofVogue had predicted that the future of hats was: "in size colossal" and, two years on, the magazine suggested thatthe growing popularity of photography had inspired many of these new millinery designs, ascouturiers were exposed to images from other cultures and countries. The inspiration for the peach basket millinery design was said to be the oversized styles worn by women of theCongo.[5]

Controversy and ridicule

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Kay Laurell in an unusual high-crowned and fabric draped variation on the peach basket, c. 1910

Although the peach basket was launched as one of the 1908 season's new looks, it was not greeted with universal acclaim. TheLos Angeles Herald reported in 1909 that the US National Association of Retail Milliners had "launched the aeroplane as the new style of headgear, put a ban on the peach basket hat and decreed thethree-cornered hat of the Louis XVI period as the stunning bonnet for the coming winter months".[6] The milliners, who declared the peach basket (or fruit basket) dead, had suffered a poor season of sales. The association's president admitted: "The last season proved disastrous, short and unprofitable owing to the launching of extreme styles such as the fruit basket hat...a concerted effort has been made to tone down all attempts to introduce freak creations".[1]

A further editorial in a New York newspaper said that husbands were partly responsible for the collapse in sales of the peach basket hat, with the manager of oneSea Cliff store reporting: "I have had no end of husbands come to the shop this spring in company with their wives to pick out their hats to prevent them from investing in a peach basket, washbasin or inverted bowl shape. Never before has so much fun been poked at millinery as this season".[7]

In its favour, the peach basket was said to have saved a New York showgirl from disfigurement. Beginning with "Here's a kind word at last for the peach basket hat", an article in theLos Angeles Herald went on to describe how a car passenger thrown head first through a car windshield was saved because her substantial peach basket hat exited before her, thereby saving her from skinning her nose.[8]

In popular culture

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In 1909, the short comedy filmFlossie's New Peach Basket Hat, produced bySigmund Lubin, was released.[9][10] In the same year, the songIn a Peach Basket Hat Made for Two was composed by James M. Reilly andHenry W. Petrie.[11]

Later revivals

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Marion Davies in a peach-basket style design, unknown date

The design had a brief revival in the 1930s, with a fashion commentator noting that "as fetching a line as ever it was inpre-war days, the peach-basket hat returned this week to offer lively competition to the flat-crowned hats as spring's favorite millinery".[12] The article went on to describe a modified design of rough purple straw with a band ofgrosgrain ribbon and a bouquet of violets, as well as a classic peach basket with a navy straw brim and a tall tapering crown ofleghorn straw dressed with flowers and a short veil.[12] It was also a design that featured in the mid 1950s, usually in a simplified form but sometimes the straw frame was draped with soft fabric.[2]

Although the term – and the classic peach-basket design – have not been widely seen since the 1950s,Princess Maria Laura of Belgium wore anorganza hat described as a peach basket at the 2003 wedding ofPrince Laurent of Belgium and Claire Coombs.[citation needed]

See also

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References

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  1. ^ab"Tell of Big Loss on Basket Hats: Milliners in Convention Declare this Form of Freak Gone Never to Return". Chicago Tribune. 2 September 1909. Retrieved21 January 2015.
  2. ^abBrooks Picken, Mary (2010).A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion: Historic and Modern (1999 ed.). United States: Dover Publications. p. 165.ISBN 978-0486402949. Retrieved6 January 2015.
  3. ^"All the new millinery! All the cleverest conceits! (advert)". Pittsburgh Gazette. 16 April 1909. Retrieved21 January 2015.
  4. ^Sharp, Evelyn (4 June 1908). "The Milliner's Market Garden".The Guardian.
  5. ^Delis Hill, Daniel (2004).As Seen in Vogue: A Century of American Fashion in Advertising. Lubbock, Texas: Texas Tech University Press. p. 168.ISBN 0896726169. Retrieved21 January 2015.
  6. ^"Discard Peach Basket Hat for Aeroplane One". Los Angeles Herald. California Digital Newspaper Collection. 20 December 1909. Retrieved21 January 2015.
  7. ^"New censors of Millinery"(PDF). Sea Cliff NY News (from NY Sun). Fulton History. 1909. Retrieved21 January 2015.
  8. ^"Peach basket hat saves pretty show girl's nose". Los Angeles Herald. California Digital Newspaper Collection. 18 May 1909. Retrieved21 January 2015.
  9. ^"Guide to Motion Picture Catalogues: Series Two: Producers active after 1900".edison.rutgers.edu. Rutgers The Thomas Edison Papers. Retrieved31 January 2015.
  10. ^"Amusements: Nickel's big weekend bill". The St John Sun. 23 July 1909. Retrieved31 January 2015.
  11. ^Catalog of Copyright Entries: Musical compositions, Part 3 (Vol 32, no.1 ed.). United States: Library of Congress US Copyright Office. 1937. p. 151. Retrieved31 January 2015.
  12. ^ab"A fancy springtime chapeau lends to springtime smartness". Reading Eagle. 31 March 1935. Retrieved21 January 2015.

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