Pagri, sometimes also transliterated aspagari, is the term forturban used in theIndian subcontinent.[1] It specifically refers to aheaddress that is worn by men and women, which needs to be manually tied. Other names includesapho andsafa.
A pagri is usually a long plain unstitched cloth. The length may vary according to the type. The cloth indicates the region and the community of the wearer.[2]
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Sufi mystics of Bangladesh, known as"BaulFakirs" , can often be identified by their distinctive clothes. Men typically wear long tunics, known asAlkhallah andturbans known as"Pagri".[3] Women usually wear whiteHandloomsaris, jewelleries, can sometimes also be spotted with turbans.[4]
Methods of binding the pagri are innumerable, and khirki-dar-pagri is one particular style of dressing the turban. Khirki-dar-pagri means the turban with a window. Brocade piece may decorate the turban.[5]
Thepaag is a headdress in theMithila region ofBihar and inMithila, Nepal.
Pheta is theMarathi name for the traditionalturban worn inMaharashtra,India. In ceremonies such asweddings, festive and cultural and religious celebrations as well it is common to wear Pheta. In many parts it is customary to offer male dignitaries a traditional welcome by offering aPheta to wear. A traditionalPheta is usually long cloth typically 3.5 to 6 metres long and 1 metre wide. The choice of colour may indicate the occasion for which it is being worn and also may be typical to the place it is being worn in. Typical colours include Saffron (to indicatevalour) and White (to indicatepeace). In the past, wearing a Pheta was considered a mandatory part of clothing.[6]
There are several styles of Pheta which are specific to regions, for example
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Thepeta is a turban worn inMysore andKodagu, it is the traditional indigenous attire worn by the erstwhileKings ofMysore, called theWodeyars (1399 to 1947), of the Kingdom of Mysore. Wodeyars wore a richly bejeweled turban made ofsilk and jari (gold threadedlace) to match with colourful dresses as part of the royal dress.
Administrators under theKing, such as theDewans' (Prime Minister appointed by the King) and other senior officials who swayed considerable power in matters of state administration also donned the Mysore peta.
After India became independent in 1947 and the princely state merged with the Indian union, the traditional Mysore peta has been retained as a symbol of heritage and cultural antecedents and distinguished people are honoured by the award of a Mysore peta with ashawl in formal functions.
Turbans worn inRajasthan are referred to as thepagari and is also pronounced pagri. They vary in style, colour and size. They also indicate a wearer's social class, caste, region and the occasion it being worn for. Its shape and size may also vary with the climatic conditions of the different regions. Turbans in the hot desert areas are large and loose. Farmers and shepherds, who need constant protection from the elements of nature, wear some of the biggest turbans. The Rajasthani turban also has many practical functions. Exhausted travellers use it as a pillow, a blanket or a towel. It can be used to strain muddy water. An unravelled turban can also be used as a rope to draw water from a well with a bucket.[8]
Prominent styles arepencha,sela andsafa, although several local variants exist. A conventionalpagari is usually 82 inches long and 8 inches wide. ASafa is shorter and broader. Ordinarily a turban of a single colour is worn. However, turbans of one of more colours may be worn by the elite or during special occasions such as festivals or weddings, etc.[9] Rajasthani turbans are a prominent tourist attraction. Tourists are often encouraged to participate in turban-tying competitions.[8]
Peshawari pagri has been traditionally worn inPeshawar. It includes a cap calledkulla and the cloth wrapped around it calledlungi.[10]
A pagri is a symbol of honour and respect in all the regions where it is a practice to wear one. Its association with honour also lends its use in afigure of speech in associated languages. The figure of speechpagri uchaalna inHindi (literal translation: to toss the turban) implies causing the loss of honour.[citation needed]
Different communities in Rajasthan are recognized by the colours and patterns on their pagris. The Kevat community wears only red Bandhani turban at all occasions. Jat community in Narwa village wears a bright yellow turban.[11]
